I'm planning to ramp the front of my Camry for an oil change. Is it still possible to use jack stands (as a backup) when the front of the vehicle is ramped and the car is at an angle?
I have a pair of rhino ramps I bought 25 yrs ago. They look nothing like the new ones. The new ones look so weak and cheap. Just from the underside view I wouldn't trust them with a car. Mine have a very tight egg crate design. The new ones are just cheap plastic boxes with a shelf life. Just make them out of solid wood. They are heavy but fool proof and you can leave them outside and they won't rust..
I also have the older Rhino Ramps. Back when they cared about quality. They are built like a tank with no weak areas with a full support grid underneath. Look at these new ones and I wouldn’t park a scooter on them. They look pre-split out of the box! What’s the purpose of that design? Pre-determined stress points?!
I would think as long as the wheel is over the plastic cylinder and there are no cracks should be good. For slick surfaces you can buy rubber door mat type material at a big box store and set them on that. If the piece is longer than the ramp leaving the extra hanging past the start of the ramp should help quite a bit.
Excellent comment and idea! I’ve used these but have a problem with the chin spoiler catching and pushing the ramp. I’ve been experimenting with pieces of wood that will help alleviate that problem. 👍
So if your car is 3450lb which would mean you will need min 1725 lb per wheel but not sure why a manufacturer would certify this at 8000lb each side? Why would manufacturer give invalid data? Its like i do oil change every 2000 miles because 5000 is not safe for engine. I dont understand.
@@Fred-Faizi they certify it at 8k per side because that's what it can hold? what's the problem here? and 5k is not unsafe unless you're pouring shavings in on purpose along with your oil...
Mine are old like 7 years and never have been in the sun but the oil change last week for my ML350 was just to much. They split but it held and I change the oil with even knowing until I was finished. Never again!
One of the biggest safety concerns is the sliding issue when attempting to mount them. The rubber footing is not enough & decreases over time as you use them. Footing needs to be bigger for better grip. The ramps are not wide enough to accommodate tire width. If you don't have a relatively flat surface to work with dont waste your time or money.
I have a set of ramps that are not Rhino brand. They are a heavier plastic with a more substantial close honeycomb core to support them. Unfortunately, they do not nest together for storage. The ultraviolet light of the sun is the greatest deteriorator of all plastics, so they shouldn't be left out in direct sunlight...at least tarp them if you don't have room in your garage or shed. Also avoid using them in sub-zero temperatures, although that's probably not when you want to be crawling around under your vehicle anyways.
These things, lined up properly, and no matter the approach, they shoot out like a bullet on me and the friends I've had come over because it's downright comical. Useless without a rubber pad underneath, these are better for destroying a car unless prepared with additional grip. Never had this problem with metal ramps... just the typical folding like fresh laundry that still to this day plagues those.
As you can see in the customer images, the big lip on the top can put enough pressure on the ramp to break off the top part of the ramp. Clearly a design flaw. I'm glad that I didn't buy these ramps, and never will because of this.
Man, I didn’t think about how temperature could affect them. Great point!
I have 2 sets currently and still don't trust them completely but jack stands give me piece of mind, they are nice to have
Even the other companies like Race Ramps say, when in doubt also use Jack Stands.
How about we use both? Use ramp as primary and then use jack as backup as precaution?
@@Fred-Faizi that's what I do, I use both
@@Jdl223 sorry i thought that you mean jack stand is safer then ramp. Thanks for clarifying.
I'm planning to ramp the front of my Camry for an oil change. Is it still possible to use jack stands (as a backup) when the front of the vehicle is ramped and the car is at an angle?
I have a pair of rhino ramps I bought 25 yrs ago. They look nothing like the new ones. The new ones look so weak and cheap. Just from the underside view I wouldn't trust them with a car. Mine have a very tight egg crate design. The new ones are just cheap plastic boxes with a shelf life. Just make them out of solid wood. They are heavy but fool proof and you can leave them outside and they won't rust..
No they'll just rot.
I also have the older Rhino Ramps. Back when they cared about quality. They are built like a tank with no weak areas with a full support grid underneath. Look at these new ones and I wouldn’t park a scooter on them. They look pre-split out of the box! What’s the purpose of that design? Pre-determined stress points?!
I would think as long as the wheel is over the plastic cylinder and there are no cracks should be good. For slick surfaces you can buy rubber door mat type material at a big box store and set them on that. If the piece is longer than the ramp leaving the extra hanging past the start of the ramp should help quite a bit.
Yeah, a piece of plywood that locks in under them might be a good way to keep the spacing correct too.
Excellent comment and idea! I’ve used these but have a problem with the chin spoiler catching and pushing the ramp. I’ve been experimenting with pieces of wood that will help alleviate that problem. 👍
Thanks a lot but I’ll stick with my metal ones that I’ve had for 30 years and keep in the garage. I’m OK with the inconveniences.
Lol. Not taking any chances huh.
@@mekhiburton8930 - they are rock solid be safe with the plastic ones
I use Black Widow ramps that are more robust, but I still use jack stands in addition to be safe.
Hello again Jaspel
Thank you for another Great Video. This is very timely advice. Again thank you
My car weighs only 3450lbs, but I went with the 16K ramps, for good measure
So if your car is 3450lb which would mean you will need min 1725 lb per wheel but not sure why a manufacturer would certify this at 8000lb each side? Why would manufacturer give invalid data? Its like i do oil change every 2000 miles because 5000 is not safe for engine. I dont understand.
@@Fred-Faizi they certify it at 8k per side because that's what it can hold? what's the problem here?
and 5k is not unsafe unless you're pouring shavings in on purpose along with your oil...
I mean, you use jack stands in addition to these no? Why would you ever trust a single thing?
Mine are old like 7 years and never have been in the sun but the oil change last week for my ML350 was just to much. They split but it held and I change the oil with even knowing until I was finished. Never again!
One of the biggest safety concerns is the sliding issue when attempting to mount them. The rubber footing is not enough & decreases over time as you use them. Footing needs to be bigger for better grip. The ramps are not wide enough to accommodate tire width. If you don't have a relatively flat surface to work with dont waste your time or money.
I have a set of ramps that are not Rhino brand. They are a heavier plastic with a more substantial close honeycomb core to support them. Unfortunately, they do not nest together for storage. The ultraviolet light of the sun is the greatest deteriorator of all plastics, so they shouldn't be left out in direct sunlight...at least tarp them if you don't have room in your garage or shed. Also avoid using them in sub-zero temperatures, although that's probably not when you want to be crawling around under your vehicle anyways.
I think there could be more anti-skid pads on the bottom.
These things, lined up properly, and no matter the approach, they shoot out like a bullet on me and the friends I've had come over because it's downright comical. Useless without a rubber pad underneath, these are better for destroying a car unless prepared with additional grip. Never had this problem with metal ramps... just the typical folding like fresh laundry that still to this day plagues those.
how long can you leave a car sitting on rhino ramps? my car only weighs around 2800lbs
Drill small holes on bottom edge and zip tie bicycle tubes, sliced in half, on bottom. They will stop moving.
Do they warranty these when they break???
EXspecially informing.
Paint them for additional uv protection...paint is cheap
Thanks
As you can see in the customer images, the big lip on the top can put enough pressure on the ramp to break off the top part of the ramp. Clearly a design flaw. I'm glad that I didn't buy these ramps, and never will because of this.
Another reedit with better audio. New content coming soon
why not fill inside cavity with concrete. That sound make it break/slide crack resistant
possibly some sort of polyurethane foam
Sure try moving them around after that not even worth doing it at that point due to the weight and cost might as well get metal ones than
Sure thing, just fill em' up. For summertime parties while working on the old jalopies, I use mine for a Jello Mold with marshmallows of course!
I don't understand. If plastic is so better than metal, why don't they make screw drivers out of plastic?
Use common sense. Got it
Had some, no more, just use floor jack and stands now.