awesome vid man! i been waiting for this answer for so long! thanks for helping....also the primer has a number too ie. 1000, 1200 etc...what to buy? if only get one..which one? thanks man!
I totally forgot to mention that part. The numbers are like the grit of sandpapers. 500 will have a smooth finish but not as smooth as 1000. In short, the higher the number = smoother surface. Based on my experience 1000-1500 is okay and that's usually what I use. I honestly use 1000 gray, 1500 black & white and I can't see the difference. If you can get 1500, get it. If not, you should be okay with 1000+.
@@GKito yes, its smoother the higher the number...but what does that mean? why should i use one over the other? sorry for the stupid question...doesn't make sense to me....it makes sense for sanding
In general, you would want smoother surface. For example, you have a car, do you want it to have a smooth finish or rough finish? When you use a 500 surfacer, that roughness would affect the paint over it/the final finish. So if you want a candy finish or metallic, do you think rough surface looks good on that?
@@phat_gunpla_etc You'd want to use a lower number for surfacing. For instance, for plastic with a lot of small surface imperfections you'd use 500, or if there is only a little bit of uneven plastic you'd want to use 1000-1200. Once you use either of those, you'll sand it down to "surface" (get it? :) ) the plastic. It's common for a lot of people (including myself) to use Mr. Surfacer as a primer and base coat, but in that case you'll want to use the finest grain, 1500. Hope this helps and happy Gunpla-ing!
@@LiamsHobbyRoom from I get , 500 is just to fill any imperfection which is a mistake in our part in first place, so honestly just having good sand on a model then put 1000 - 1500 for finer one. also I kinda interested in industrial one generally what grid is most common industrial spray paint grid since it's much cheaper for my budget
A superb illustration of the different qualities of these products! If everyone was so methodical and to the point in their videos we wouldn't have to watch a million videos to learn basic things. Thanks for sharing
Sir, Thank you so much. Ive been searching this simple answer for a long time yet no one give straight answer like yours. This video should be played on the cinemas. I really hope you are doing well and stay healthy
Nice video! If your on budget I would recomend white more than grey. Simply add a couple drops of red or black in it and you have pink or grey surfacer. It work great for me.
I like the red over brown best. I paint anime figures more than gunpla and use white a couple shades of pink yellow and brown primers depending. Brown makes the best dark skin tones.
I love to model "Yellow Wings" Pre WWII Naval aircraft. The Pink Primer is unmatched for the Yellow/Orange Wings as well as Yellow and Red markings. The Black is perfect for the Aluminum paint. Thank you for the video.
I agree @G-Kito if one is limited with choosing one. Grey is the default choice. However, I'd suggest to go with at least 2 on stock - grey + either black or white, depending on one's usual color schemes,
Now that I know the secrets of surfacer color, which one is the best for blue? White on white is a recipe for disaster, but what if you want to brighten up your blues?
Black and mahogany surfacers are handy if you want to shade your model kit. Shading here means giving a dark color gradation around the edges of your painted parts to give it that realistic look, which is preferred in painting military models or diorama. By using darker colored surfacer, you don't have to pre-shade your models.
Great explanation, I always wondered what "white safu" is in some of the videos I've watched in the past not knowing it's "white surfacer". I'll definitely try it for my next sculpture.
thanks for the information< i just recently started to airbrush, and let me tell you, it can be very daunting to pick it up. So far I’m enjoying the learning process.
I think brown is used for wood colors Aka browms From my understanding browns don't paint well on conventional white, grey and black primers White primers make browns looke dry and washed out Grey primers make browns look faded and ashy Black primers make browns look weet and undersaturated and in some shades makes brown look like poop Brown is from my understanding the second most difficult color to paint after pure white(no primer) And it usually needs several layers to reach the actual hue you whant And alternative is to use a dark orange as a base or primer, works fairly well
My understanding is that the mahogany surfacer is good for armour kits, especially the German tanks that use the dark yellow as their base colour, or any armour that uses sandy camouflage paint.
@@stevie65able could be But then again primers used on model kits don't necessarily equal the real life version Example automotive metalic paint goes over white primer while hobby metalic paint usually goes over black
I used the pink 1500 version on my games workshop citadel kit. Wery good stuff thinns 50/50 or 1:1 with mr color leveling thinner. Also I think it will work good with mr lascivous for dark skinned anime characters and thats why I bought it to try it.
whyyy would you show the mahogany surfacer results from the other side of the spoon. there is no way to compare like that as the light hits completely different. Other than that though, this video is very educational and provided me with answers I was looking for. thanks!
Thanks! What airbrush needle size are you using, ratio and psi? I’m using dspiae’s version of the surfacer 1500 black when I sprayed it with my 0.5 nozzle it sprays really rough if I add more more drops (like 4 ml) of mr color levelling thinner its just pooling over.
awesome vid man! i been waiting for this answer for so long! thanks for helping....also the primer has a number too ie. 1000, 1200 etc...what to buy? if only get one..which one? thanks man!
I totally forgot to mention that part. The numbers are like the grit of sandpapers. 500 will have a smooth finish but not as smooth as 1000.
In short, the higher the number = smoother surface.
Based on my experience 1000-1500 is okay and that's usually what I use. I honestly use 1000 gray, 1500 black & white and I can't see the difference.
If you can get 1500, get it. If not, you should be okay with 1000+.
@@GKito yes, its smoother the higher the number...but what does that mean? why should i use one over the other? sorry for the stupid question...doesn't make sense to me....it makes sense for sanding
In general, you would want smoother surface. For example, you have a car, do you want it to have a smooth finish or rough finish?
When you use a 500 surfacer, that roughness would affect the paint over it/the final finish. So if you want a candy finish or metallic, do you think rough surface looks good on that?
@@phat_gunpla_etc You'd want to use a lower number for surfacing. For instance, for plastic with a lot of small surface imperfections you'd use 500, or if there is only a little bit of uneven plastic you'd want to use 1000-1200. Once you use either of those, you'll sand it down to "surface" (get it? :) ) the plastic. It's common for a lot of people (including myself) to use Mr. Surfacer as a primer and base coat, but in that case you'll want to use the finest grain, 1500. Hope this helps and happy Gunpla-ing!
@@LiamsHobbyRoom from I get , 500 is just to fill any imperfection which is a mistake in our part in first place, so honestly just having good sand on a model then put 1000 - 1500 for finer one.
also I kinda interested in industrial one generally what grid is most common industrial spray paint grid since it's much cheaper for my budget
A superb illustration of the different qualities of these products! If everyone was so methodical and to the point in their videos we wouldn't have to watch a million videos to learn basic things. Thanks for sharing
The MG spoon really caught me off guard and made me lol big time. good one! haha
Sir, Thank you so much. Ive been searching this simple answer for a long time yet no one give straight answer like yours. This video should be played on the cinemas. I really hope you are doing well and stay healthy
Nice video! If your on budget I would recomend white more than grey. Simply add a couple drops of red or black in it and you have pink or grey surfacer. It work great for me.
Just tried that. Damn good advice
Fantastic! The pink primer really brings out that nice bright red. Thanks for the video!
I like the red over brown best. I paint anime figures more than gunpla and use white a couple shades of pink yellow and brown primers depending. Brown makes the best dark skin tones.
thanks a bunch man, I always struggle with yellow and I also had no idea what pink primer was for, you solved 2 of my problems with 1 video!
Great video sir! A ton of useful info efficiently displayed. I will probably refer to it often when deciding a color scheme.
This is a fantastic video, thank you! I never realized how good grey is as an undercoat, I'll have to grab some
WoW that was so well explained and demonstrated. Thank you very much
I love to model "Yellow Wings" Pre WWII Naval aircraft. The Pink Primer is unmatched for the Yellow/Orange Wings as well as Yellow and Red markings. The Black is perfect for the Aluminum paint. Thank you for the video.
outstanding work, great production, and very informative
I agree @G-Kito if one is limited with choosing one. Grey is the default choice. However, I'd suggest to go with at least 2 on stock - grey + either black or white, depending on one's usual color schemes,
Now that I know the secrets of surfacer color, which one is the best for blue? White on white is a recipe for disaster, but what if you want to brighten up your blues?
Black and mahogany surfacers are handy if you want to shade your model kit. Shading here means giving a dark color gradation around the edges of your painted parts to give it that realistic look, which is preferred in painting military models or diorama. By using darker colored surfacer, you don't have to pre-shade your models.
I was looking for this answer for the longest time thank you so much
Great explanation, I always wondered what "white safu" is in some of the videos I've watched in the past not knowing it's "white surfacer". I'll definitely try it for my next sculpture.
nice video bro! the spoon is a P-Bandai🤣
This is great! Thank you for so many comparisons. You have helped me so much and gave amazing advice. Thank you for this! From Osaka!
Thanks so much dood ive been seeing these and wondering their intended use Keep it up!!
Thank you so much for making this highly educational video.
thanks for the information< i just recently started to airbrush, and let me tell you, it can be very daunting to pick it up. So far I’m enjoying the learning process.
Nice video bro 😁thank for a guide.can you build gunpla next time? 😃
Great comparison! It would be nice to know the mixing ratio you use to thin these to airbrush, and what psi you are shooting. Thanks!!!
Nice video, thanks for that! It is interesting what pressure was on the test painting?
I think brown is used for wood colors
Aka browms
From my understanding browns don't paint well on conventional white, grey and black primers
White primers make browns looke dry and washed out
Grey primers make browns look faded and ashy
Black primers make browns look weet and undersaturated and in some shades makes brown look like poop
Brown is from my understanding the second most difficult color to paint after pure white(no primer)
And it usually needs several layers to reach the actual hue you whant
And alternative is to use a dark orange as a base or primer, works fairly well
My understanding is that the mahogany surfacer is good for armour kits, especially the German tanks that use the dark yellow as their base colour, or any armour that uses sandy camouflage paint.
@@stevie65able could be
But then again primers used on model kits don't necessarily equal the real life version
Example automotive metalic paint goes over white primer while hobby metalic paint usually goes over black
I used the pink 1500 version on my games workshop citadel kit. Wery good stuff thinns 50/50 or 1:1 with mr color leveling thinner. Also I think it will work good with mr lascivous for dark skinned anime characters and thats why I bought it to try it.
whyyy would you show the mahogany surfacer results from the other side of the spoon. there is no way to compare like that as the light hits completely different.
Other than that though, this video is very educational and provided me with answers I was looking for. thanks!
Thanks! What airbrush needle size are you using, ratio and psi? I’m using dspiae’s version of the surfacer 1500 black when I sprayed it with my 0.5 nozzle it sprays really rough if I add more more drops (like 4 ml) of mr color levelling thinner its just pooling over.
Very useful video
Now i know why my yellow colour over gray surfacer look like shit. I tought i choose wrong colour.zzzz...thank so much for this video
very informative mate keep it up... =)
NO! NOT THE MG SPOON! 😱
You mad man
I think the brown would be good if you're going for a more industrial, used, worn looking gundam tbh.
This was very useful
Great informative video! Keep it up :)
Pink primer is an old trick to get colors to pop more
Goo that the plastic bottles takes the Mr.Color Thinner Solvent without melting
nice vid, very useful
Mahogany is mainly for military colors.
I agree about the mahogany it has limited use. I used it under a brown color and it Is ugly