Bleed your shocks with the lower spring collar on. It adds material between the top of the eyelet and the bottom of the shock body. If you bleed without the spring collar on, you are effectively expressing more oil out of the shock than your stroke demands. This can lead to the shock feeling a little under damped, and it won't pack up properly off of bigger jumps, and can make the rear end feel nervous. This is because there is more air in the body than there should be because the stroke is a couple mils shorter than what it was bled at. Total shock fluid volume to stroke ratio is essential in an emulsion shock.
I've been running all of the AE b6 series cars from the 6.1 to the 6.4. I have built the B7 last week and i must say this is probably the kit that had the most faults in build quality.. i am a bit disappointed. The gearbox is skew.. the gears inside is binding. The front arms are binding and 2 holes on the side of the gearbox are literally 2 big and the screws screwed in so effortlessly just to strip without even trying to tighten the 2 gearbox pieces together.. it is even the revised kit. It probably is the best performing car out today. But I've been in the mood for switching for a long time! I can't wait for my Mugen MSB1 🤘
Hi Mark, great little piece on building the B7! I am also a fan of the orca electronics, the OE1 MKii in particular, but I notice you have your bluetooth module glued to the ESC, don´t you need to press the button on it to connect? at least I think I do on mine? Cheers!
By the way you have changed the front geometry compared to kit by using the ws +-2mm as you have lengthened the front camber link by 2mm,you might want to try kit first.
I don’t know much about these cars but I’ve always loved the look of them. Could you tell me if the 4wd model has metal differential and metal drive train etc? Do you think this model although designed for track racing would make a good speed run buggy? Considering spares availability and options. Or is there a better alternative? Thanks
not sure this is what we would choose for a speed car ... but it would depend on the surface you want to run it on. these are track racers designed to turn at speed which is not needed on speed cars
Hi chaps firstly I like your vids as you are true racers. I youst to race some time ago 1\10 lost truck rc10 and hpi saloon but thy got stolen . I was thinking of getting a rc 10 but am shocked at the price and think that there a ripoff what do you think maybe you could do a vid cheers
Bleed your shocks with the lower spring collar on. It adds material between the top of the eyelet and the bottom of the shock body.
If you bleed without the spring collar on, you are effectively expressing more oil out of the shock than your stroke demands. This can lead to the shock feeling a little under damped, and it won't pack up properly off of bigger jumps, and can make the rear end feel nervous. This is because there is more air in the body than there should be because the stroke is a couple mils shorter than what it was bled at. Total shock fluid volume to stroke ratio is essential in an emulsion shock.
Building mine today! My first ever RC racing car and I’ve just hit 40
Happy 40th. Not long turned 40 myself
Great video. Very nice kit and nice build
Awesome build. Very nice piece of kit. Looking forward to seeing it go.
Love watching build videos, even full bjild videos, nicecand relaxing to watch. 👍🏻
More to come!
That's a nice chassis to build goes together well. 😊😊😊
Too bad mine didn't. Just got unlucky i guess
That looks like a super nice build, lovely engineering in that 👍
Wow, that is one hell of a nice looking kit!!
I solely use Tekin motors, they are IMO the best that money can buy.
Nice buggy. Looking forward to seeing it run.
I've always been and will be a Kyosho fan, but these kits are velvet smooth and well made. Thanks for sharing, absolute treat.
Thanks for sharing I enjoyed my build definitely a quality bit of kit
I look forward to seeing you racing with it , enjoy and big like Mark
Tremendous build. I really fancy one of those 👌
I really enjoy my 7. I put every R1 Wurks upgrades on it, including the 3 gear transmission. I haven't lost an A Main yet with it on turf
Nice build. Did you forget to grease the gearbox gears? Nice tip on the locktite on the shock shafts too.
I thought that about greasing the gears 😢
@@michaelcarter3309 of course, but very light bearing oil👍
Very nice buggy and build indeed. If you get rid of some leftover flash here and there, I'd call it perfection 😊
I've been running all of the AE b6 series cars from the 6.1 to the 6.4. I have built the B7 last week and i must say this is probably the kit that had the most faults in build quality.. i am a bit disappointed. The gearbox is skew.. the gears inside is binding. The front arms are binding and 2 holes on the side of the gearbox are literally 2 big and the screws screwed in so effortlessly just to strip without even trying to tighten the 2 gearbox pieces together.. it is even the revised kit. It probably is the best performing car out today. But I've been in the mood for switching for a long time! I can't wait for my Mugen MSB1 🤘
Hi Mark, great little piece on building the B7! I am also a fan of the orca electronics, the OE1 MKii in particular, but I notice you have your bluetooth module glued to the ESC, don´t you need to press the button on it to connect? at least I think I do on mine?
Cheers!
Hi, no it springs into life automatically when I open the app👍
You sound like Ronnie O’Sullivan! You like him are really good!
By the way you have changed the front geometry compared to kit by using the ws +-2mm as you have lengthened the front camber link by 2mm,you might want to try kit first.
@@petewilson6153 very true
I just purchased A Power HD GTS 3 for my B6.4cc build. Hopefully they are good servos.
You planning on racing the cc? Thought it was to serve as a shelf queen then whatever servo wont be run anyways
It was a low Profile Servo I had spare. And yes it will be a shelf queen apart from some friendly use indoors.
There are only three parts names you have to remember, a thingymabob, a doofyjig and a hoddgymaplonker. 😊😊😊
I don’t know much about these cars but I’ve always loved the look of them.
Could you tell me if the 4wd model has metal differential and metal drive train etc?
Do you think this model although designed for track racing would make a good speed run buggy? Considering spares availability and options.
Or is there a better alternative?
Thanks
not sure this is what we would choose for a speed car ... but it would depend on the surface you want to run it on. these are track racers designed to turn at speed which is not needed on speed cars
Hope you race it.
Are the idler gears upgrades required or have the new kits got the issue sorted now ?
@@rudiperez5315 these are not needed as the previous issues are all sorted.
Hi chaps firstly I like your vids as you are true racers. I youst to race some time ago 1\10 lost truck rc10 and hpi saloon but thy got stolen . I was thinking of getting a rc 10 but am shocked at the price and think that there a ripoff what do you think maybe you could do a vid cheers
🧱 🧱 🧱
No, im not jealous at all.🥹