I recently went to the 2wd wides and really like them. My favorite part is the extra steering under full acceleration, they just push less than the slims. They also last longer which is good for the wallet! Might be able to achieve the same level of steering authority with the slims with setup changes but I really liked the bolt on faster corners going to the wides.
Our track only allows slicks. Much easier on the carpet and reduces costs because no pins or bars to wear down. So, tires last much longer and no need to try a variety of treads. I actuall prefer the slicks, easier to get the car to pivot and move in the corners 👍
Don't replace the chassis. You'll go broke. Buy a new chassis and use it as a template. Take off the front and then hold the new chassis up to the chassis on the car. You'll notice the front tab is bent up and twisted. Put it in a vice and twist it the opposite direction until it matches the new chassis. You've very likely bent your bulkhead as well. Put it on a flat surface and check it. Replace it if it's bent at all or you'll be chasing your tail. To get more steering, change the rear springs to yellow and change the rear shock oil to 32.5 wt. But most importantly get rid of that rear toe! Unfortunately AE for some reason gave us a C-block that doesn't allow for less toe. Put an R1 Quks wide C block on and try 0, 0.5 and 1 degree of rear toe and you'll have A LOT more steering. Make sure you are at zero front toe as well. Run -1 degree of camber front and rear. Run the camber links in their stock holes to start.
You should try get the B7 -4 Chassis for carpet, I run mine on dirt and the differences were insane, gave me a more aggressive and nimble feel in the rear of the car, as well as giving me a tiny bit more rear grip. Could try some different shock positions in the front end or even a KPI change to get some more entry/mid steering in the car. Love the videos!!
Can’t wait to race at regionals! Yes go to the -4 chassis. I also recommend putting the slipper back on. We noticed with the slipper we didn’t lose speed but we were more consistent. Also this will save your spurs the 17.5 motors have a lot of punch and with the eliminators we noticed you will go through idlers faster as well. Maybe an avid slipper 👀
I ran some practice laps on that layout when I was there for the dirt oval race. It’s definitely a very tricky layout. The first jump into that canyon jump in front of the driver stand is about further than it looks, you really need to keep your speed up around the right side sweeper to even clear the first part.
"stock class" but allowing you to disassemble a motor and upgrade it feels like the opposite the spirit of a stock class, but I don't race so what do I know.
“Stock” refers to the motor and nothing else. For me locally ceramic bearings and adjustable timing aren’t legal and the screws are a grey area. Most “stock” class cars are the most heavily modified cars at the track because you are “limited” on power whereas in mod weight can be overcome with brute force
Being the one that lost to you in the last video, my opinion probably means nothing; but I stand with what I said about replacing full sets at a time for a consistent feel in the cars traction front to rear. Also, that servo weight plate made a huge difference for my car also as well as the Exotek slipper eliminator plate. Going to be a good race next time you’re out to have some good battles with us. Until next time Brett…
Interesting. I’m racing B7D and I think I’d be scare to run without a slipper. Will be interesting to see how your drive train holds up. Great series by the way!
As a follow-on to my other comment... I'd never second guess Spencer Rivkin. He shows up at our track often and like all the pro's he's incredibly fast. But he's a pro driver running a mod buggy. He drives extremely aggressively compared to us mortal club racers. With that being said that 2 million weight diff lube isn't doing you any favors as a club racer running a stock 17.5 class. Try something like 60K and you'll have better off-power turn in and with a 17.5 stock motor running blinky shouldnt have any issues exitting turns and getting bsck on the power.. You can go up from there but I'd be very surprised if you end up any higher than 100K. I'd step up to a 32 or 33 tooth pinion. Check your brake setup in the ESC and radio. You mentioned wanting more brake. With stock settings you should have way too much brake. You should have to reduce your brake to around 80% on the radio to prevent locking up the brakes. Running some drag brake can help your initial turn in as well.but don't use it as a crutch / replacement for good braking technique. I add in just enough to to feel like the buggy has a bit of "engine braking" when I come off the throttle.
Also, need to note the layout of the track has changed. So in the last layout that wore the tires out, there was a large ''cinnabon'' that was a high speed circle. That put that pressure on the left front tire, which was the one that had the most wear.. You are probably right, in that for that set up, there should have been more positive camber. But on this layout, you'll notice it's a bit more balanced and the same wear on the tire isn't happening.
@brandonaldred It is true that when a track has mostly left turns then the left tire will show more wear however the wear should be balanced across the width of the tire
I just bought the -4mm chassis as my chassis was bent as well (the front kick-up tab seems to be the primary failure point from what I've seen). I also had an idler fuse to the side of the gearbox last week (with bearing) which is one I hadn't read about. Makes me think perhaps a slipper eliminator might make sense if the idlers are going to blow up in their stock config.
@@extec101 weird right? I was running 17.5, carpet - nothing crazy at all. I think it was just a bearing failure which caused head and then melted the plastic - but not 100%. Stock bearings. For all the issues I've had with the gearbox, I don't think this was it's fault necessarily.
Kool video but when will you be changing the servo in the HOONITRUCK, I am interested in which one you will choose, I also have a HOONITRUCK 1/10 SCALE with all the upgrades and am looking forward to your servo pick.
Genuinely curious about the aluminum screws. It makes sense that the ferrous nature of steel could interfere with the magnets in the motor. But, when you pass magnets by most non-ferrous metals, you create eddy fields which cause drag. They use this property in a lot of different industrial ways. Then again, the motor casings are also aluminum. Now I'm wondering if some kind 9f composites would do even better.
you are thinking of magnet brakes like roller costers where a set of magnets pasing a sheeth of aluminium or copper plate to generate automatic brakes?
You should do a video on how to swap this chassis from carpet to high grip clay, avoiding the need for two chassis. That would be a great thing to better understand.
@@GlocktologistI’d be interested to know. I race 17.5 and have tricked my car out similar to this and it’s way under weight. I wonder if a ti chassis would get it to weight or a little over, if it was way over the min I’d be out. A heavier chassis is weight down low.
I just scored a big package deal with a b62 team edition, nib with all nib spec electronics. Is that a competitive platform, or do I sell it for the latest and greatest?
We've been using the JConcepts Fuzz Bites. These: Front: www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-fuzz-bite-lp-2.2-premounted-2wd-front-buggy-carpet-tires-yellow-2-pink-jco3165-201011/p1394292?v=1387066 Rear: www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-fuzz-bite-lp-2.2-premounted-rear-buggy-carpet-tires-yellow-2-pink-jco3152-201021/p1394293?v=1387064 -Brett
Way too much front inside tire wear. Assuming your camber settings are correct, investigate reducing front caster so that you will have more tire contact patch while turning. Right now it appears you're driving along the edges too much.
@extec101 My case in point,look at the carpet nats. None of the winning cars have crazy long arms,kpi,5 gear transmission ect. All that stuff does not make it better or faster,just different and unnecessary imo.
@@kevinwest1607 to be honest i drive a Xray xb2-22 on carpet in winter and astro in summer and im gone as far back as the dirt gearbox and gear diff to generate more traction and some more rotation in corners due to the back end being slight more heavy and swinging round in corners and hook down the straights. on my home track on astro im the next fastest guy after the national two times winner but most of the other guys got their aim at me to better themselfs.
It's fun and addictive. But it's not easy. If it was easy people would get bored of it quickly. There are people who have been racing for 20 years at our track trying to refine everything they can, trying to learn new things to pick up another another tenth of a second. If you ever give it a try, unless you are some kind of freak, you'll likely get your butt handed to you for the first year of racing. Like being lapped multiple times in a short race. Don't get frustrated, focus on competing with the other new guys who started around the time you did. You will continue to learn and get faster every week. I find it infinitely more interesting than bashing. I'm chomping at the bit waiting for race day every week. Planning how I'll try to improve from both a car setup perspective and a driver perspective. Most days I struggle. But every now and again, I get things right and man is it exciting to hear the announcer calling out your name and the guys watching loudly reacting when you make a last moment pass stick and win a race.
I've found with airplanes, as well as getting started with racing cars, that competition give you focus and really forces you to improve your skills. This transfers to a better experience when bashing or flying for fun.
bashing dont hoon the skills of driving, well its fun to go bash my slash in a skate park to have fun for a couple of hours but my race byggy is where i learn the skill of driving an fine tuning performance of the car.
@AMain Hobbies Hey,Buddy! I don't know if your aware or not but seemless rendering of picture, video and audio have been around for at least Twenty Five years! Not to mention realtime rendering of today! Again not mention an augmented AI filter applied to a video! An example, you can have a live stream or an already published video where your sitting in a chair talking and never stand up! But everybody else sees you stand up reach down to scratch your beans, then start saying how you need to get back to the planet Krypton, then time doesn't matter cause the YuLoo's were too Ugly to save! Then sit back down in the chair finishing the live stream, and you didn't know it happened til people told you! Crazy, I know!
This is some crackhead rc racing stuff, 98% of people need to drive there cars and stop working on them to get good. Changing setup every time you go out to me is pointless unless you have proven an issue to yourself and know a solution. Also chassis slapping every landing is obviously going to warp it. Id say if you are and OJ'r then thickken the rear oil so you dont slap every time. Regardles of how much rear steering you loose from it.
agree he needs thicker oil or .1-.2mm smaller holes in the shock pistons, doubble bounce/ slapping the chassis is both bad for the plate and time spent on every lap trying to save a squirrelly car after every landing
Oh Brett, big props for taking extra time to showcase pulling the film off of the programmer box!!!
I recently went to the 2wd wides and really like them. My favorite part is the extra steering under full acceleration, they just push less than the slims. They also last longer which is good for the wallet! Might be able to achieve the same level of steering authority with the slims with setup changes but I really liked the bolt on faster corners going to the wides.
Our track only allows slicks. Much easier on the carpet and reduces costs because no pins or bars to wear down. So, tires last much longer and no need to try a variety of treads. I actuall prefer the slicks, easier to get the car to pivot and move in the corners 👍
@@jerryvolpini7987 I’m
Going to try this at our track
Don't replace the chassis. You'll go broke. Buy a new chassis and use it as a template. Take off the front and then hold the new chassis up to the chassis on the car. You'll notice the front tab is bent up and twisted. Put it in a vice and twist it the opposite direction until it matches the new chassis. You've very likely bent your bulkhead as well. Put it on a flat surface and check it. Replace it if it's bent at all or you'll be chasing your tail. To get more steering, change the rear springs to yellow and change the rear shock oil to 32.5 wt. But most importantly get rid of that rear toe! Unfortunately AE for some reason gave us a C-block that doesn't allow for less toe. Put an R1 Quks wide C block on and try 0, 0.5 and 1 degree of rear toe and you'll have A LOT more steering. Make sure you are at zero front toe as well. Run -1 degree of camber front and rear. Run the camber links in their stock holes to start.
This guy.. it sounds like he knows what he’s talking about!
Nah just replace it with a good one. You won't go broke.
I don't think Amain is hurting for money.
You should try get the B7 -4 Chassis for carpet, I run mine on dirt and the differences were insane, gave me a more aggressive and nimble feel in the rear of the car, as well as giving me a tiny bit more rear grip. Could try some different shock positions in the front end or even a KPI change to get some more entry/mid steering in the car. Love the videos!!
Can’t wait to race at regionals! Yes go to the -4 chassis. I also recommend putting the slipper back on. We noticed with the slipper we didn’t lose speed but we were more consistent. Also this will save your spurs the 17.5 motors have a lot of punch and with the eliminators we noticed you will go through idlers faster as well. Maybe an avid slipper 👀
Loving this series on the B7. Just bought a B7D from you guys.
I ran some practice laps on that layout when I was there for the dirt oval race. It’s definitely a very tricky layout. The first jump into that canyon jump in front of the driver stand is about further than it looks, you really need to keep your speed up around the right side sweeper to even clear the first part.
Great video. Yes to a new chassis, but more importantly, maybe dial that front camber back a little?
How they consider this stock boggles the mind. -U10
"stock class" but allowing you to disassemble a motor and upgrade it feels like the opposite the spirit of a stock class, but I don't race so what do I know.
“Stock” refers to the motor and nothing else. For me locally ceramic bearings and adjustable timing aren’t legal and the screws are a grey area. Most “stock” class cars are the most heavily modified cars at the track because you are “limited” on power whereas in mod weight can be overcome with brute force
its nothing stock about stock cars...
Being the one that lost to you in the last video, my opinion probably means nothing; but I stand with what I said about replacing full sets at a time for a consistent feel in the cars traction front to rear. Also, that servo weight plate made a huge difference for my car also as well as the Exotek slipper eliminator plate. Going to be a good race next time you’re out to have some good battles with us. Until next time Brett…
Always replace with full set, only doing front or rears will make the car behave wierd
Yes get and install the short chassis. Might as well now that the stock one is bent. Lol
Interesting. I’m racing B7D and I think I’d be scare to run without a slipper. Will be interesting to see how your drive train holds up. Great series by the way!
try .1mm smaller holes in the shocks F-R as the car doubble bounce on landings and need slight more pack.
Please make a video on the yokomo SD 2.0
As a follow-on to my other comment... I'd never second guess Spencer Rivkin. He shows up at our track often and like all the pro's he's incredibly fast. But he's a pro driver running a mod buggy. He drives extremely aggressively compared to us mortal club racers. With that being said that 2 million weight diff lube isn't doing you any favors as a club racer running a stock 17.5 class. Try something like 60K and you'll have better off-power turn in and with a 17.5 stock motor running blinky shouldnt have any issues exitting turns and getting bsck on the power.. You can go up from there but I'd be very surprised if you end up any higher than 100K. I'd step up to a 32 or 33 tooth pinion. Check your brake setup in the ESC and radio. You mentioned wanting more brake. With stock settings you should have way too much brake. You should have to reduce your brake to around 80% on the radio to prevent locking up the brakes. Running some drag brake can help your initial turn in as well.but don't use it as a crutch / replacement for good braking technique. I add in just enough to to feel like the buggy has a bit of "engine braking" when I come off the throttle.
I miss the days of racing rc10s, and jrx2s in the dirt.
Dirt baby is what we need
Look a the wear pattern of the tires. Too much negative camber. You are not using the outside edge of the front tires as much as the inside.
I agree. They can do a video on a set up station later.
@@sunriserc1033 Amain set the car up that way??? That is absurd and part of the lack of steering
I don't know if I'd take advice from Hitler.
Is that your final solution ?
Jews > Hitler
Also, need to note the layout of the track has changed. So in the last layout that wore the tires out, there was a large ''cinnabon'' that was a high speed circle. That put that pressure on the left front tire, which was the one that had the most wear.. You are probably right, in that for that set up, there should have been more positive camber. But on this layout, you'll notice it's a bit more balanced and the same wear on the tire isn't happening.
@brandonaldred It is true that when a track has mostly left turns then the left tire will show more wear however the wear should be balanced across the width of the tire
nice 👌
love to learn from others mistakes 😁
just kidding.
love your videos. always good entertainment, keep it up 😁
-Daniel
All the fast guys at my track are running the -4mm chassis. Most of those fast guys are factory AE sponsored racers and have had them for a bit.
I just bought the -4mm chassis as my chassis was bent as well (the front kick-up tab seems to be the primary failure point from what I've seen). I also had an idler fuse to the side of the gearbox last week (with bearing) which is one I hadn't read about. Makes me think perhaps a slipper eliminator might make sense if the idlers are going to blow up in their stock config.
wow thats not a normal fail to melt the idlers to gearbox.
@@extec101 weird right? I was running 17.5, carpet - nothing crazy at all. I think it was just a bearing failure which caused head and then melted the plastic - but not 100%. Stock bearings. For all the issues I've had with the gearbox, I don't think this was it's fault necessarily.
Kool video but when will you be changing the servo in the HOONITRUCK, I am interested in which one you will choose, I also have a HOONITRUCK 1/10 SCALE with all the upgrades and am looking forward to your servo pick.
Yes get the chassis it'll make a difference
Cross over is so fun.. 😂
Genuinely curious about the aluminum screws. It makes sense that the ferrous nature of steel could interfere with the magnets in the motor. But, when you pass magnets by most non-ferrous metals, you create eddy fields which cause drag. They use this property in a lot of different industrial ways. Then again, the motor casings are also aluminum. Now I'm wondering if some kind 9f composites would do even better.
Yeah, it seems like an interesting idea. I wonder why other companies don't offer the same for their motors.
-Brett
you are thinking of magnet brakes like roller costers where a set of magnets pasing a sheeth of aluminium or copper plate to generate automatic brakes?
You should do a video on how to swap this chassis from carpet to high grip clay, avoiding the need for two chassis. That would be a great thing to better understand.
I swear I thought I was the only one that uses paper plates like that LOL!
Kindly do a review of the new Kyosho inferno mp10 readyset nitro buggy. Would be greatly appreciated 🙏
Would be cool if they made a 3.5mm-4mm titanium chassis plate
Have you calculated how much it would add weight?
@@GlocktologistI’d be interested to know. I race 17.5 and have tricked my car out similar to this and it’s way under weight. I wonder if a ti chassis would get it to weight or a little over, if it was way over the min I’d be out. A heavier chassis is weight down low.
@@SethRhodes-p3h just .5mm thicker plate would be a couple more grams down low and stiffen the plate just a bit more so they dont bend as easy.
should i buy a b7 or a b7d for clay cuz idk which one to get, i want downforce from the front wing but team associated says the b7d is for clay
get a D if you run on dirt/clay and mount a wing on it.
I just scored a big package deal with a b62 team edition, nib with all nib spec electronics. Is that a competitive platform, or do I sell it for the latest and greatest?
Try replacing the rear spoiler
Why not take out camber to even up front tire wear?
Man, like an alignment and programming box are pretty standard before hitting the track.
Very nice.
did that tool press on the center of the bearing?
Yeah, it was centered and touched nothing but the bearing.
-Brett
Try a carbon chassis
Just slacken off all the screws under the chassis and it might straighten it self out flat again
LoL and that's why the chassis is bent.
11:11 😆😆😆
Are you gluing tire side walls when its edgy?
What 4 wheel scale are you using?
looks like skyRC system
What tyres do you run ??
We've been using the JConcepts Fuzz Bites. These:
Front: www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-fuzz-bite-lp-2.2-premounted-2wd-front-buggy-carpet-tires-yellow-2-pink-jco3165-201011/p1394292?v=1387066
Rear: www.amainhobbies.com/jconcepts-fuzz-bite-lp-2.2-premounted-rear-buggy-carpet-tires-yellow-2-pink-jco3152-201021/p1394293?v=1387064
-Brett
Way too much front inside tire wear. Assuming your camber settings are correct, investigate reducing front caster so that you will have more tire contact patch while turning. Right now it appears you're driving along the edges too much.
When you put new tires on a car because only half the tires are used then you're set up is wrong
agree.
If you want to win races get a b6.4.
to a point i agree 6.4 seems to do better om some tracks and dont get so much problems with bent chassies blown gearboxes and KPI C-blocks busted.
@extec101 My case in point,look at the carpet nats. None of the winning cars have crazy long arms,kpi,5 gear transmission ect. All that stuff does not make it better or faster,just different and unnecessary imo.
@@kevinwest1607 to be honest i drive a Xray xb2-22 on carpet in winter and astro in summer and im gone as far back as the dirt gearbox and gear diff to generate more traction and some more rotation in corners due to the back end being slight more heavy and swinging round in corners and hook down the straights.
on my home track on astro im the next fastest guy after the national two times winner but most of the other guys got their aim at me to better themselfs.
Please do a comp crawler build series! You can get really really in depth with those just like a race buggy, would be an awesome series!
None of those weight changes matter when u suck at driving 😂
The majority of us are in that camp, but we all love to tinker with RCs.
What 6s car is the best on grass
whoops…
Race rc seems like a massive headache to me. I’ll stick to bashing,
It's fun and addictive. But it's not easy. If it was easy people would get bored of it quickly. There are people who have been racing for 20 years at our track trying to refine everything they can, trying to learn new things to pick up another another tenth of a second. If you ever give it a try, unless you are some kind of freak, you'll likely get your butt handed to you for the first year of racing. Like being lapped multiple times in a short race. Don't get frustrated, focus on competing with the other new guys who started around the time you did. You will continue to learn and get faster every week. I find it infinitely more interesting than bashing. I'm chomping at the bit waiting for race day every week. Planning how I'll try to improve from both a car setup perspective and a driver perspective. Most days I struggle. But every now and again, I get things right and man is it exciting to hear the announcer calling out your name and the guys watching loudly reacting when you make a last moment pass stick and win a race.
I've found with airplanes, as well as getting started with racing cars, that competition give you focus and really forces you to improve your skills. This transfers to a better experience when bashing or flying for fun.
bashing dont hoon the skills of driving, well its fun to go bash my slash in a skate park to have fun for a couple of hours but my race byggy is where i learn the skill of driving an fine tuning performance of the car.
@AMain Hobbies Hey,Buddy! I don't know if your aware or not but seemless rendering of picture, video and audio have been around for at least Twenty Five years! Not to mention realtime rendering of today! Again not mention an augmented AI filter applied to a video! An example, you can have a live stream or an already published video where your sitting in a chair talking and never stand up! But everybody else sees you stand up reach down to scratch your beans, then start saying how you need to get back to the planet Krypton, then time doesn't matter cause the YuLoo's were too Ugly to save! Then sit back down in the chair finishing the live stream, and you didn't know it happened til people told you! Crazy, I know!
This is some crackhead rc racing stuff, 98% of people need to drive there cars and stop working on them to get good. Changing setup every time you go out to me is pointless unless you have proven an issue to yourself and know a solution. Also chassis slapping every landing is obviously going to warp it. Id say if you are and OJ'r then thickken the rear oil so you dont slap every time. Regardles of how much rear steering you loose from it.
agree he needs thicker oil or .1-.2mm smaller holes in the shock pistons, doubble bounce/ slapping the chassis is both bad for the plate and time spent on every lap trying to save a squirrelly car after every landing