All About Hot Water Recirculating Pump Systems! Product Reviews and Valuable Info
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- In this video, I delve into hot water recirculating pump reviews by going over the details that you will want to know.
I also give valuable insight into hot water recirculating pumps so you know what to expect.
What you will learn in this video:
- How Does A Hot Water Recirculating Pump Work?
- Pros And Cons To A Hot Water Recirculating Pump
- Using A Hot Water Recirculating Pump Off Grid
- Making Your Hot Water Recirculating Pump Smart
- Detailed hot water recirculating pump reviews
Video Table of Contents
00:06:58 Jump to Product Reviews
00:00:45 Introduction
00:01:34 How Does a Hot Water Recirculating Pump Work?
00:02:09 Pros and Cons to a Hot Water Recirculating Pump
00:05:22 Using a Hot Water Recirculating Pump Off Grid
00:06:08 Making your Hot Water Recirculating Pump Smart
You can find the products in this video at:
www.maximumoffgrid.com/off-gr...
00:07:03 Watts 50800 Recirculating Pump
00:09:11 Laing Recirculating Pump
00:10:33 Grundfos Superbrute
00:12:08 Taco Bronze Circulating Pump
00:13:10 Sharkbite Water Heater Connection Kit
00:13:31 Gosund Mini Wifi Outlet
Don't forget to visit www.maximumoffgrid.com for tons of information on water systems and more!
Two thumbs up. Was well worth watching. Because it was filled with a lot of useful information.
Excellent video. Short and very very informative. Great job!
Excellent, great job Max. Off Grid
Such a great idea, we used to have to haul in every drop of water we used, a person learns to be so conservative on water usage.
Makes a big difference when you have to haul in your own water!
Well made video. Thank you for this info!
Good stuff. Good luck!
Thank you sounds like you covered all we need to know. (super job) 😉
super video.........thank you so much for the simple and perfect explanation...this is very helpful.
well done!
ty for the info!!!
Good video, with great information. Good job. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
WELL DONE
Thank You for such a comprehensive review
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much, I'm a maint. man on an Apt. building we just took over and it has a circulating pump, we've been getting a lot of pin hole leaks and I was told it was because of the pump running all the time and to get a timer like you said. Problem was I didn't know a thing about how it worked so I had no idea how to set the timer, and your video was great at explaining how it worked not to mention confirming the timer thing. Being an Apt. building still makes it hard to set the timer, but your video has given me the knowledge of knowing I can do it. Thanks again
You are very welcome! I am glad my information helped you.
The best part was last. Thanks
Well done presentation!
Thanks!
Very informative, I learned a lot. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Good info -- I did much the same research. We have an early Noritz on demand water heater and did not want it cycling on and off constantly. Ended up with a Koler-Flo (Grundfos knock-off) and a WiFi smart plug. When we want hot water, open the phone app, turn it on and set a timer long enough to bring hot water to the tap and then turn off automatically. The pump only runs 15-20 minutes a day. I don’t have to insulate the recirc line and my Noritz isn’t beating itself to death. Thanks
Awesome! Those wifi switches are a game changer!
Very informative video, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Nice video. It takes 15-20 minutes in the winter, in my house to get hot water to the bathrooms, in my house. I have my pump on a WiFi outlet, before we want to take a shower, you just hop on your phone and cut it on. Before discovering these lifesavers, I changed my 40 gallon tank out to a 80, then a 120 gallon unit, as you couldn't take more than a 2-3 minute shower before running out of hot water in the winter. Now days, we enjoy a nice steamy shower in the winter, something before the pump that didn't exits.
This is a great example of why a recirc pump works so well. Not all situations need one, but it sounds like you really benefitted from the pump. Glad it works so well for you!
I enjoyed this video I think it was very informative
I’ve been researching these pumps for a while, I have not purchased one yet but I plan to and I will do a video on how to install it
Tag me when you do your install video!
great detail. I appreciate your clear and concise information that you provided. Your presentation of this data was very good. If that was your picture at the end of the presentation you should try to show your face in your videos.
Thanks for the kind words and yes, that's me!
Great information, thanks for your efforts. .
Thanks for watching!
You have provided the most comprehensive review I have seen. I didn’t know if there were model available other than Watts. But I think I will go with Watts because it is available from Home Depot and that’s a powerful support system. Thanks again.m
Glad you found my video helpful and informative! Watts is the top of the line at a good price. You made a good choice.
I have the same unit as the one you rated #1, I went about it a bit differently, anytime my smart switch is activated in my kitchen or bathroom, it triggers the smart plug to run for 5 minutes, it works great. Also, to get rid of the warm water in the cold faucet issue, I used 2 check valves which I used to force the bypassed water directly to the water heater. I made these changes at the same time I changed to a heat pump water heater and so far it’s been a big savings according to my Sense monitor. I’m in South Central Pennsylvania, so at some point soon the hybrid mode will make it use more energy. Love the hybrid unit, it heats my water cheap while air conditioning and dehumidifying my attached garage and the condensate line waters the plants near its exit, it’s a win/win/win.
Nice tips, thank you! Glad the pump is working well for you.
hello, im trying to set up like yours. which smart switch runs for 5 min only? can you elaborate?
@@homersalazar8479 I’m using Sonoff S31 with Tasmota, but controlling it with Home Assistant. But there are many ways to make the same basic thing happen. Happy to answer more,, just let me know what you need.
@@waynenocton ok thx bud, i figured out the smart switch-you can configure to when a trigger the 5 minute thing. BUT I now found a system that senses flow, then kicks pump on long enough to circulate the water. It has a flow sensor that kicks it on-a temp sensor on the hot outgoing side and a temp sensor on the return line. when the temps match, pump automatically cuts off
@@homersalazar8479 the pump comes with the valve that stops the flow once the water gets hot, otherwise the cold water would get more and more hot. But it still gets pretty warm before it does stop which is why I did the two check valves with the T so the warmish water returns back to the water heater instead of going backwards through the cold water pipe like it’s designed for.
Great video, very informative and reliable info. FYI … the the Grundfos is now available with the timer but it’s pricier than the Watts and others. Again… great info thanks.
Thank you! I plan to do an updated video soon with newer pumps and more info.
We certainly need this in California what with them rolling out the 55 gallon per person consumption rate per day by 2022 or face a fine. Thank you for the info, I didn't even know these pumps existed.
They are a really cool pump and would help Californians stay under that water law and I am sure costs way less than the penalty would be.
Come to Tennessee. We are in the Tennessee Valley Authority system and I can never remember any water shortages here. In the winter it rains and rains and rains. In the Summer it is hot and somewhat dry and there is no income tax. Don't tell anybody else though. We already have enough immigrants coming to Tennessee from red states.
Great information. I have a dedicated circulation line to my master bath and had pin hole leaks in the solder joints. I would like more information on slow flow circulating pumps and ways to prevent these pin hole leaks. The information you provided here has given me ideas on how to rebuild my master bath circulation system.
I am glad you found the video helpful! Maybe you can simply solder up the pinhole leaks?
Great video, very informative. I guess it all boils down to 'cost' of wasted water versus the 'cost' of keeping the piping hot and running the pump. (and by 'cost' I mean more than just cash, especially in off-grid).
Thank you! And I agree, you have to evaluate your personal situation to really decide if the pump is right for you.
Hi,
Just discovered your channel.
A couple of thoughts on this subject...
You could put a flow meter on the cold water main to the house for a year and this would quantify gallons used. If you take readings monthly/weekly and record temperature and weather you would have a good baseline for comparison after making improvements.
Next, you could eliminate the pump entirely by doing two things:
Run a return pipe from just before a hot water faucet back to a return manifold located at the base of the water heater.
Wrap the existing hot water pipe and the return pipe together in insulation to help preserve heat in both pipes. In this way the natural difference between more rapidly moving water molecules (hot) at hot water out of the water heater and the less energetic molecules (cold) of water returned to the water heater will provide constantly recirculating water flow to all such plumbed hot water faucets. Thus, no need for a hot water pump.
Enjoy your channel.
Cheers,
Mark
Thank you for the great tips! And enjoy the channel :)
i have a bronze reciculating pump with a zone valve to shut off so there is no heat migration. I installed it 22 years ago. Works great. I wired the low voltage switch to every faucet in the house. When i trigger switch it takes about 15 seconds for hot water to reach my shower. When not in use the pump is off and there is no hot water sitting in pipes wasting heat!
Great tip!
I like it
Thanks for your video. I have only been researching these systems for a couple days and I have come to a little different conclusion. I would rank the Watts after the Laing. The reason being reviews for the Watts suggest the the valve that goes under the furthest sink does not last long. Maybe 1 to a few years. They can fail to make the water hot or may fail be staying open and the both 'hot' and 'cold' are hot and waste energy. They are like $50+ and are made of plastic. People often have problems with them breaking threads. Generally people hate them. They really should make a brass version in my opinion. The Laing also just makes more sense to me since My furthest faucet is the kitchen sink which has a power outlet open there.
Thanks again for the video. :-)
Yes, the Laing is really the best, but the price point is a bit high, so I figured in that aspect. But if you have the money, definetely get the Laing!
Regarding the rust on the Grundfos pump. It's called Galvanic corrosion (also called ' dissimilar metal corrosion' or wrongly 'electrolysis') refers to corrosion damage induced when two dissimilar materials are coupled in a corrosive electrolyte. It occurs when two (or more) dissimilar metals are brought into electrical contact under water. When a galvanic couple forms, one of the metals in the couple becomes the anode and corrodes faster than it would all by itself, while the other becomes the cathode and corrodes slower than it would alone.
I experienced severe corrosion when my "Master Plumber" installed my Buderus wall hung boiler and almost killed it when the pump failed due to the corrosion. I ripped his work out and re-installed the pump along with shut off valves at both ends for ease of removal and installation. His "professional" work lasted 4 years....mine is still looking fresh with NO rust whatsoever after 12 years. I used rubber isolators (rubber washers) to keep dissimilar metals from touching, simple to do. BTW, these pumps are ridiculously quiet!
Good to know, thank you for the information!
Great information - just what I was looking for. Unbiased reviews - pros and cons both reviewed. Knowledgable, clear and concise information. Thank you!
Awesome, thank you!
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I somehow forgot the password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!
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@Luke Lennon I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
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Thank you so much, you saved my ass!
Oh! Please consider the Chilipepper pump too. It only runs on demand. The water heater, tankless in my case, only comes on when water is asked for. No need to keep the water heater on all the time which is required by all the pumps I see you discussing. Thanks. Marty in Florida
Yes, I discovered the Chilipepper pump long after I made this video. I am thinking about making a 2nd edition, what do you think?
Hello Regina, thanks for this great informative video, what is the difference between the pump on top of the water heater, or under the sink? And does the cold water line would have more pressure build up?
Thanks! The difference between the two installation points is that undersink installation does not require a return line, whereas installing at the water heater does. When installing undersink, place the pump at the farthest hot water point.
As far as cold water line pressure goes, from my research I have not found any issues about pressure in the cold line.
Probably a few things to note
1. Avg. wasted water is about 14,000 gallons annually per US household.
2. Taco and Grundfos at the end are commercial pumps. A bit pricier
3. The Grundfos "Comfort System" recirculates warm water back into the cold water line to keep the hot water hot.
4. I would never recommend a homeowner sweat copper pipe or a pump into a water line, stay with the threaded connections where possible, it's hard enough to sweat copper to copper let alone copper to brass.
5. I personally would not recommend a sharkbite type fitting on or close to a water heater.
Thanks for the tips!
(80 to 100) 80 only has 1 zero not 2. Good video.
I had one of these worked well be galvanic dissimilar metal action ate it up
That is a good point.
Very nice video. Big pump or little? Polymer (plastic) or iron? A higher flow (volume) pump chows more juice, but it runs for a shorter period of time. Iron rusts! But, stainless steel identical versions are made. No more rust, but they are expensive. And you have to verify if any dissimilar metals, in yir system, will be compatible.
Yes, you are right. Iron pumps should only be used for industrial applications like radiant heating. I've learned a lot since I made this video thru all the wonderful comments. Thanks for your input!
I guess the only constructive criticism I have is that you really should use some affiliate links. I just bought the Watts based on this video and if you would have had a link I would have happily used it. Using affiliate links is really the easiest way for us as viewers to commend you for a job well done and it costs us nothing and at least puts a pittance more than a thumbs up in your pocket. Very well thought out and researched video.
Ah, thank you! I believe there are aff links in the show notes? I don't have enough subscribers yet to place them atop the video, but one day, I will!
@@RusticSkills
Instantaneously hot water is a must in this COVID-19 era.
Subscribed!
Does having a pump inline reduce the speed at which the water can flow out of the water heater out to the faucets?
oh, cool.
My Laing pump had a broken impeller also but they quickly shipped a replacement.
That is good to know!
great video clear concise very informative one question 1] can one pump work for two bathrooms ,or only the farthest away?
Thanks! You actually install the pump at the farthest sink and it recirculates for the entire house.
It depends on how your pipes are layer out.
@@1768ify laid out..
Have you experience/opinion on a Grundfos with a bridge valve for a tankless water heater? Recommendation for a bridge valve?
I do know that the only compatible recirc pump for a tankless is the Laing Autocirc E10.
My first time viewing your channel. I was impressed. You kept it very easy to understand and yet provided a complete solution to a most common problem. Thank you. Looking forward in viewing your other videos.
Thank you! The vids have been slow going lately, but I plan to release more soon!
Great video! Do you have any thoughts on the Chilipepper pump with a tankless system?
I have had 3 Chilipeppers, original one lasted about 8 years, replaced it outside of warranty. The replacement worked for about 3 months when I accidentally ran it dry, got another one and is working fine. NEVER run it dry, pro-tip. It is a bit loud when activated, but it is only on when you need hot water. I have it on a conventional tank heater, but I think working on a tankless unit would be fine. If in doubt call up the company, they'll know for sure.
I haven't done much research on the Chilipepper but will include it in the next updated video!
I used it on three different homes .. I loved it .. it’s a bit noise not too bad at all.. I’m sure it’s gonna work great in a tankless. It might be the most affordable one for a tankless
I have been using a chilipepper pump and its not reliable, because the motor and seals tend to go out. I am thinking to use the electronics of this unit to drive another pump and see how that works. The good thing about it is the remote and it pumps till the water is warm and shuts off or runs max. 3 min. This saves electricity, water and compatible to an instant tankless water heater.
I will update if I find my mods are reliable. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for your helpful feedback!
Great video. Do these pumps have internal thermostat?
Most do, but check with the manufacturer before you buy.
Along with timer, I want to install a button/switch in bathroom that can be pressed for the occasional off time use.
Good idea!
Will the Laing pump work with a tankless water heater? My Chilipepper stopped working after 3 years and looking for a better pump that lasts longer. It worked with my tankless water heater.
The only one I know of that works with tankless is Laing Autocirc E10 which is a bit different than the one in the vid.
When designing your building, situate all kitchens and baths close or stacked above... Insulating your hot water pipes will also be a worthwhile investment... measure the time it takes to recirculate one cycle loop... so before opening the tap, you will have allowed enough time for the hot water to be at your spigot... if you need hot water far from the main tank, consider a small DWH (like 3 gallon or so) at point of use, so by the time the main DWH water reaches that point... once the main tank hot water hot reaches the feed of the small unit, it will satisfy the t-stat in the small unit and shut it off...
Great tip thanks!
I connected a flow switch with a 30 sec delay off timer. The hot water isn’t instant as one that constantly circulates, it’s faster than no pump and I use less electricity and propane.
This is a great tip. Thanks for sharing!
Just installed the Watts 500899 H.W. recirculating system. It works as advertised and I would highly recommend it. Question: After the initial H.W. pumping has charged the line, does the thermal bypass valve re-open as the water cools down? Will the pump automatically restart when the valve re-opens?
I found a great article that should answer your question, way more in depth than I could describe: besthotwaterrecirculators.com/how-do-sensor-valves-work/
A city water line point of entry has a back flow prevention valve installed as a code requirement. The meter will not allow
back flow either. No water that has entered your home can pass back into the primary water supply from the street. I’m not positive, but I think the pump is actually sending the water back to the hot water tank so it’s refilling the tank as it’s pumping. If a different hot or cold water faucet is opened elsewhere in your home as the pump is operating, the pump will send the water to the open faucet which then becomes the point of least resistance.
How does this work if you keep your water heater at its maximum heat setting? This is create some sort of problem?
'Heat Trap' hmmm.. thanks!
You bet!
Hi. Are any of these compatible with the Espar hydronic system (for RVs/vans)?
I am not sure, but I don't think an RV or van would really benefit from this kind of pump, since the plumbing is so short. Are you having issues with your hot water not getting hot fast enough? If you get hot water in 30 seconds you do not need this device.
@@RusticSkills I only have a limited 25 gallon fresh water tank. I don't want to waste precious water for 20 seconds to get luke warm water and 30 seconds for hot water. 😫 Wouldn't this be perfect for getting warm water in just a few seconds?
Do I need to insulate my new pex piping I ran 3/4 to all feeds 90deg turns with 1/2 pex?
It depends on the intended use and local building codes. PEX piping can be installed without insulation in certain conditions, such as if it's located in a heated space or if the water temperature won't exceed 140°F. However, if the pipes will be located in unheated spaces or if the water temperature exceeds 140°F, insulation is recommended to prevent heat loss and protect pipes from freezing.
I could be wrong, but I think the Grundfos is intended for use in a hot water heating system, such as baseboard hot water heating. In such a system, the line should never go dry and rust in the line isn't as big of a concern.
Yes I believe that you are right.
Sharkbites are not permitted for residential install (permitted for mobile homes) here in Tucson, Arizona. This came as a surprise to me, but... verify your local codes.
I had no idea that they were not permitted in some areas! Sharkbites. Some people love them. Others hate them.
If I understand the mechanics correctly, without a dedicated return line, when the water recirculates back through the cold line, we are then drinking water that has been run through the hot water tank? I have always understood that due the use of decaying aluminum anode rods, water from the hot water tank should not be used for drinking or cooking. Is this safe?
This is a really good point, I will look into it further.
But how long does it take to get ice cold water though?
can you suggest a pump to use with tankless water heater?
Thanks for your question! I suggest the Laing E10 pump as its compatible with every tankless heater on the market. Here is a link: www.maximumoffgrid.com/off-grid-water-system/off-grid-water-pump/hot-water-recirculating-pump-reviews/#THWR
I have been looking at putting in a recirculating pump in my house. The one issue that I have not seen addressed is, the fact that you are introducing cooler water into your water heater. Will this not make your water heater run more? If I do this, I wont need a timer. I want a smart plug connected to alexa. All I will say is, turn on pump. I have alexa in multiple places in my home
I think the Alexa is a great idea! Overall from what I've read and gathered, the recirc pump is only really worth it if you are waiting 10 seconds or more for hot water. Anything less than that the cost of getting one doesn't make sense.
@RusticSkills i am timing all my sinks and showers now. I only test one a day. Aftaid that running water from one will reduce times for others. So far, 61 seconds is the longest time so far.
Is it safe to drink out of thewater that was forced to the cold water line after the water from the water heater got cold?
As long as you have a residential grade pump, it should be just fine.
You only mentioned the first pump that’s not being compatible with a tankless gas water heater are the others not compatible also or are they compatible with a gas tankless
Last time I researched, there was only one recirc pump for tankless. Could be different now, I haven't researched in a while.
Not mentioned is that the valve under the sink has a thermostat. this thermostat is often set to stop water movement at 95 degrees. so you will likely not get so hot water only warm water. another disadvantage is that if you turn on cold water you get hot for the same period of time it took to get hot water originally. for me not good enough.
Yes, the recirc pump does not work for everyone's situation. You have to evaluate if its right for you.
Does this pump circulate 50 meter distance?
I have had the Watts pump for about 2 months and feel like taking it back to Home Depot. I have it correctly installed in a 3200 square-foot house. The hot water tank is downstairs at one end of the house and the bypass valve is upstairs in the kitchen at the opposite end of the house. That is the only tap that gets hot water reasonably quick. I do not agree with the advertising of so-called instant hot water at the other taps. I am not a plumber per se, but I cannot see how this is called a recirculating pump when the hot water dead ends at all the other taps. To work as advertised, I believe bypass valves would have to be on all faucets. The showers particularly are worse than before and there is no way to add bypass valves to the showers because they are behind finished walls or shower enclosures. Also another complaint in the family is water pressure drop during a shower and cold water coming out if someone else is using water somewhere else in the house. I have seen other UA-camrs illustrations of the hot water in red running up to a tap and blue coming back out. It is common sense that the hot water dead ends at the tap, it cannot be circulated across to the cold side without additional bypass valves, joining the hot and cold together. Until I am proven wrong, I am not very happy with this concept. Even Watts says in their instruction sheet that other bypass valves may need to be installed. So the advertising on the box is not completely truthful. Also, what corrosion are you talking about? Isn’t old outdated metal piping extinct, except for copper, which doesn’t corrode and is replaced by the more common PEX plastic type, industry standard ?
I think the materials used nowadays don't have the corrosion issues, I was finding corrosion problems with the industrial pumps, not the residential ones. TBH I don't think these recirc pumps are really worth it unless you live in a super old house with serious hot water heating issues. But some people have had really good luck with them.
I would like to know what pump you use... i have a start in rain water collection and i need a pump to push it to another tank... of course would be nice in the house.. not sure how i can do that yet... but pump yes
The waterbug would be a good option just put it in the tank and place it on a programmable wifi outlet. you can turn on the pump from your smartphone and pump anywhere you want, it sucks water to 1/16th of an inch. Just don't forget to shut it off when you are done!
Oh, I am making a video on submersible pumps that will be out in the next couple days. That will have the pumps you are looking for.
750 TDS water, with water softener. Watts unit has been installed for 13 years. built in timer. I use in conjunction with solar water heater that preheats water to electric water heater on timer during "sun" hours, 80 foot run to furthest faucet. Keeps the water flowing during daytime hours to prevent the solar water heater from over heating and provide instant hot water everywhere in the house. Winter: preheats water to electric water heater. Summer: electric heater off and solar provides all hot water through electric water heater for storage.
Great tip! I am planning to do a DIY solar hot water heater. They are awesome.
@@RusticSkills the evacuated tube collector solar water heater with the tank on top with the coil of copper pipe running through it seems to produce the most hot water for the $$. Hot water is not exposed to water in tank because it stays in the coil like a still and the glass tubes do not leak because they are low pressure. The system requires no energy if you cycle hot water into a regular electric water heater with the recirc pump.
If you just got up in the morning and used a bucket, you could measure how much water is wasted getting hot to the faucet. For my furthest faucet, it takes 5 quarts of water before the tap is flowing hot. If I do that four times a day that is 5 gallons of water a day. And thus for a year it is 1825 gallons of water wasted per year.
The cost of running the pump, if I ran it continuously 24/7 at the 45 watt setting for me that would be about $6.50 per month (17c per kwh). However if I put the pump on a timer and ran it only one minute every ten minutes that brings the cost down to 65c per month. Even better, If I put a temperature sensor in the return line I would only run the pump when the return water dropped in temperature, so even less.
This is great advice! Thanks for contributing 👍
Good review....You say on average we Americans use 80-100 gals/day....yet your text at timeline 0:52 says 800-100.... may want to fix that. Also,.....is there a way to rig the system up to prevent water line freezing as a goal, instead of immediate-hot-water use?
Thanks, unfortunately I cannot edit the video once it's posted, darn! Since the system always pumps hot water thru the lines, it should keep them from freezing, but you can add insulation to the lines which will also help from heat loss as well.
@@RusticSkills ....the house is already built and I...like many others...may suffer the occasional cold snap in the South where the insulation around pipes is already a done deal...maybe poorly performed...and hidden behind cabinets and walls, and is ineffective. Can't reasonably "Add" insulation under this scenario. Problem for me is typically 2 bathroom sinks against an outside wall under these conditions. By the way, insulation itself often does little in these scenarios, as heat needs to be added. It's like these goofy outside hose spigot insulating boxes you can install. Over time......the air inside the box will attain the same cold ambient temps as outside the box, and will still freeze, unless you put a lightbulb against the spigot too or some other form of heat input. It's like saying putting a coat on a dead body out in the cold is the same as a live person putting on a coat. You need heat production to have insulation have any longer term value.
@@TheWilferch So you can install this pump right at the water heater which will send hot water thru your pipes throughout the entire house, which could help them from freezing up, as opposed to installing underneath the sink. Although you might have some issues with heat loss since the hot water is traveling so far, since your pipes are somewhat insulated already it may actually work really well to keep at least the hot water line from freezing. Yeah I totally get what you mean by putting a coat on a dead body, good analogy! Lol
Hi everyone! This was my very first UA-cam video, so I am keeping it up as the comments have a treasure trove of valuable information and I feel it is a helpful repository of advice. Yes, I make some typos and I say erosion instead of corrosion, but I think I did a pretty dang good job for my first video EVER. So enjoy this nostalgic piece of content!🤠
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If you recycle your hot water to your water heater thru the cold water line, you're returning cool water to your heater to be reheated. What's that expense to reheat that water all day and/or night?
Thats a good question.... Some say the hot water recirc pumps aren't worth it in the end. It all depends on your personal scenario.
10:10 this is one jacked up drain line lol 12:20 sweat valves arent better than threaded, just more difficult to work with. The problems with threaded connections leaking is the fault of the installer and shark bite is horse crap, that's a guaranteed leak in the future.
Here is a question i can't seem to find an answer for: My current water heater is a 50 gallon electric TANK model. believe it or not, it is an A.O. Smith and is 26 years old - a house original - so i can't complain that it has lasted a long time (I've only owned the house for 4 of these 26 years). well it is now failing and i am going to replace it with a tankless. seems to make sense.
the situation: the current water heater has a re-circulation pump off the hot outlet side with a dedicated return line (the return line going back into the cold water inlet of the WH, check-valve to keep it from going back into the cold supply line and water softener) so there is hot water at every faucet in the house within seconds. almost instantly. there are motion sensors which activate the pump for a minute or two so it is not always running.
i believe there is even a sensor at the end of the return line (before it goes back into the cold inlet) to keep the pump from running if the water is already above 120 degrees (or shuts it off if that temperature is detected before the motion sensor would shut it off). without the pump, it would take almost 3 minutes for the water to get hot at the furthest fixture, and it cools off quickly once you shut the faucet off. makes it a pain in the butt for rinsing dishes in the kitchen - which is the furthest fixture.
the question: how do you hook up any electric tankless water heaters WITH the circulation pump in the loop where it does not void the warranty? i have seen videos (for Rheem) that has this feature with a gas model, but not electric. Certainly there must be a way?
the theory should be the same with a tankless model as it is for a tank. activating the pump when you walk into a room is like turning on the faucet (because of the return line). the WH does not know someone has not turned the faucet on.
Well that is quite an interesting situation you have going on. From what I understand, the only difference between a tank and a tankless electric water heater is the tank is an additional feature to store extra hot water, but it works exactly like a tankless.
That being said, I would be weary of hooking up a traditional circulating pump to it, as most are incompatible with electric tankless water heaters.
There is one model I have found that works with tankless, but it is rather expensive at over $500. If you are interested I can send you the link to the pump.
what you think about Taco hot-link plus E for tankless water heater tho ?
So I looked it up and I don't think it is compatible with tankless.... The only one I can find that is compatible with all tankless water heaters is the Laing AutoCirc which I have updated my article to include it: www.maximumoffgrid.com/off-grid-water-system/hot-water-recirculating-pump-reviews/#3
This will put heated water into the cold line. Drinking water from the heater is hazardous. You will have to run the cold water for several minutes to flush the hot water out of the system. Basically the same waste as flushing out cold water from your hot line.
I have heard this, that it takes a while for the water to become cold. Unsure if the waste amounts are the same?
If my water heater has a heat trap does that mean none of the pumps will work?
I wouldn't go so far to say that none will work. However, I recommend that you check with the manufacturer before purchasing a pump.
Heat trap doesn't matter, it's a lot of folks spouting stuff they don't understand. The pumps work on positive flow so it's going to push the water through the piping.
Is there a passive way to accomplish the same thing? No pump method? With on demand water heater why would you need this anyway. If you have a distant bathroom put a unit in that bathroom, like large houses should have more than one water heater.
With a tankless heater, you still have to wait for hot water to reach the faucets, and depending on where its installed will depend on how far the water has to travel. Plus recirculating the hot water in the pipes will give you more hot water, I have heard on demand hot water heaters don't provide much more hot water.
You said each person
uses 80-100 gallons per day, but wrote 800-100
Can't fix that once the vid is uploaded..... Will be there forever!
What about the "chili" pump?
I haven't heard of that one, I will check it out!
You never said if any can be used with a tankless water heater, only that the first one would not
So I have found only one tankless water heater recirc pump that is compatible with all tankless models. It is quite expensive. I listed it on my article; I cannot edit the video to include it. I will be working on an updated video to include that pump. You can find it here: www.maximumoffgrid.com/off-grid-water-system/hot-water-recirculating-pump-reviews/#3
Only use a closed loop set up ,ask me why.
Why lol
@@RusticSkills you don't want to force your water out of heater they have nasty deposits, could cause problems.
Use pump batroom light. Swich
This is a great idea
@@RusticSkills thanks dear
Youre "off the grid" but using wifi from a smartphone to control you're hot water recirc system? I'm confused.
Why does everyone think when you are off grid you cannot have access to the net? That stone age thinking. Welcome to the 21st century!
You mention that the watt pump isn't compatible with heat traps but you don't mention that about the other pumps. Are the rest compatible with heat traps? Asking for a friend 🤣
Not sure, I just know this specific one had issues with the heat trap. Might have to contact manufacturer.
Also...GET RID of the COPPER SPIRAL tubing which will eventually BREAK.
REPLACE with Stainless steel BRAIDED tubing.
I lost 6,000 gallons of water with the spiral copper ones before I even discovered the problem.
Oh wow, that is a good point. Ty!
Uh, I'm maximum off-grid, but I still have wifi and smart outlets...
No one ever said you have to be disconnected to be off grid
Viewers, please don’t be misled by the term “valve”. The attachments on the pumps are fittings. Get a pump with fittings to match the plumping that you have.
Thanks for the correction, I am not too familiar with all the terms.
oh men !! no such system available in india :(
Do you guys have India Amazon? Also try going directly to the manufacturer and see if they will ship internationally.
@@RusticSkills yes we have india amazon.
@@Sarfrozkhan I would look it up I'm sure you can find one
@@RusticSkills thank you so much.
Didnt realize that "80" was written as "800"
Yup that was a typo, can't change it now
800 to 100?
Can't change it once its published!
You might want to change 800-100 gallons to 80-100 on the caption portion at the very beginning of your video. 😊 Otherwise, it's a bit out of whack with what the eyes are seeing v.s. what the ears are hearing !
This was actually my very first video, so I think I did pretty good. Once its published it can't be edited. Wasn't expecting all the views! I do appreciate the feedback!
What pipes do you insulate? Most are behind walls? The pipe on your water heater? Secondly aren’t you wasting a fortune by having your water heater running all the time since the pumps are dumping cold water into the water tank?
Your best bet is to use the wifi switch so you can turn the pump on as needed. This will help you save energy. You can insulate the pipes on the water heater, it may not do much as like you said, most are behind walls.
Electric consumption goes up
Gas bill goes up
Water usage goes down
There’s no such thing as a free lunch
lol lol IKR
Honestly this is so wrong it’s not even funny thought it was a joke tbh
Sorry to hear you didn't like the vid