Ive done quite a few roll on texture jobs over the years. My last one was just over a year ago. I was pressed for time, so i got the bright idea to spray it on and back roll it like you would with paint . Took maybe half the time and turned out just as well as in the past.
Man I love your work. Been thinking about doing this in the house we just bought. Previous owners had wallpaper throughout and after taking it down and sanding the old glue residue off, it is still just not up to my standards as far as being paint ready. BUT, I just don't have the time or energy to do a full skim coat and sanding by hand right now. You've confirmed my thinking. Roll on a semi thin coat to even things out, light quick sand and it should be good to paint.
You have to do an oil base prime over the glue. Otherwise when you put mud on it, it will tend to blister once you do the priming, I would suggest in the rough areas at least do a little bit of light float/skim coat, then a light sand then you can do a heavy roll on, which should help hide after you repair the blemishes prior to texturing. Hope this helps. Happy Thanksgiving!
Great channel! Thanks for all the pro info. I’m a DIY guy. My house is full of quarter-sized nail pops/ blisters. I’m remodeling one room at a time. My procedure has been… 1. Razor cut out blister 2. Pull nail 3. Place screw 2” up or down from hole 4. Fill hole with 2 or 3 coats of plus 3 or hot mud 5. Skim entire wall 6. Prime wall 7. Paint wall I’m happy with the look, but concerned the spots may show up again in the future. Is there anything wrong with my process and how would you repair lots of nail pop blisters?
I never cut them out or pull the nail. We just bang them back in and put some hot mud in it. If you’re razor cutting, you may want to put a little piece of fibafuse tape over it to ensure it doesn’t crack again, but seems like you got it going on pretty well.
@scottssheetrockservices Wondered how I'd cut the texture into top inches of wall to ceiling?? Tore wall up badly removing 40yr-old wallpaper, some places clear to gypsum. Applied liberal Kilz original oil, which is now topped by at least 2 wall coats of skim and several more spot layers of mud. Fairly smooth, but seems like I could avoid the sanding by using this texturing, then prime with water-based to avoid being stunk out of house, then follow up with liberal app of (something like) creamy eggshell paint?? Kudos to you who do this kind of work. Feels like some kind of disability to put a painting tool into my hand 😧 Thanks again for the assist.
You just get the roller as close to the ceiling as possible without touching and that’s where the texture starts. Sounds like you got it covered. Hope that helped.
@@scottssheetrockservices Indeed. Thanks again. To confirm, wall in video HAD NOT been primed? Just apprehensive about trying to achieve the minimal texturing wife wants (when she can't do the job herself), while figuring out right mud mix & amount of time between first roller and your final 'gravity' rolling. It's tough to overcome apprehension about number of ways to imagine it going wrong. I was never any good at 'paint by numbers'😉
It’s just a regular roller pad. The one I use is from Sherwin-Williams but you can buy one from Lowe’s or Home Depot depending on the thickness of the texture would depend on the thickness of the roller pad. If you have a very light texture, you can use a 3/8, if you have a medium texture, half-inch, heavy, textures, three-quarter, etc.. hope this helps
If you’re painting a flat wall, two coats of flat will suffice inside. If you’re doing an eggshell or a satin, you have to prime with a latex prior or it won’t cover.
So I'm fixing all the seam tape in a garage and am trying to match the wall texture. I put all the vertical tape back up and now trying to figure out how to match the texture. Do you recommend I try using a 1/2 or 3/4 nap? What product do you use for the mud? Can you use premade and just water it down? Appreciate your feedback!
@@seansandydrvenkar7177 yes you just thin regular mud down based on the thickness of the mud you can make heavier or lighter texture with the roller. I would use a half inch nap unless it’s really heavy. You may could try a three-quarter. Hope this helps.
Apply two coats of texture? I guess you could but if the walls prepared correctly one coat should be fine! A second coat won’t look right just saying… have a Happy new year!
Excellent video! You explained in non painter terms, thanks for posting!
Just what I was looking for! I'm renovating our 50 year old kitchen and needed to match the ceiling texture. Thanks for posting this!
Ive done quite a few roll on texture jobs over the years. My last one was just over a year ago. I was pressed for time, so i got the bright idea to spray it on and back roll it like you would with paint .
Took maybe half the time and turned out just as well as in the past.
There has been a time or two that I have sprayed multiple patches throughout the house and had someone back roll. It is effective.
think this is my ticket.. TYVM..best video out there for showing process and results.
Man I love your work. Been thinking about doing this in the house we just bought. Previous owners had wallpaper throughout and after taking it down and sanding the old glue residue off, it is still just not up to my standards as far as being paint ready. BUT, I just don't have the time or energy to do a full skim coat and sanding by hand right now. You've confirmed my thinking. Roll on a semi thin coat to even things out, light quick sand and it should be good to paint.
You have to do an oil base prime over the glue. Otherwise when you put mud on it, it will tend to blister once you do the priming, I would suggest in the rough areas at least do a little bit of light float/skim coat, then a light sand then you can do a heavy roll on, which should help hide after you repair the blemishes prior to texturing. Hope this helps. Happy Thanksgiving!
@scottssheetrockservices ah, gotcha! That makes sense. Thank you, and Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours too!
Thanks for the tips.
Looks good.
Great tutorial, thank you!
Great channel! Thanks for all the pro info. I’m a DIY guy. My house is full of quarter-sized nail pops/ blisters. I’m remodeling one room at a time. My procedure has been…
1. Razor cut out blister
2. Pull nail
3. Place screw 2” up or down from hole
4. Fill hole with 2 or 3 coats of plus 3 or hot mud
5. Skim entire wall
6. Prime wall
7. Paint wall
I’m happy with the look, but concerned the spots may show up again in the future. Is there anything wrong with my process and how would you repair lots of nail pop blisters?
I never cut them out or pull the nail. We just bang them back in and put some hot mud in it. If you’re razor cutting, you may want to put a little piece of fibafuse tape over it to ensure it doesn’t crack again, but seems like you got it going on pretty well.
@scottssheetrockservices Wondered how I'd cut the texture into top inches of wall to ceiling?? Tore wall up badly removing 40yr-old wallpaper, some places clear to gypsum. Applied liberal Kilz original oil, which is now topped by at least 2 wall coats of skim and several more spot layers of mud. Fairly smooth, but seems like I could avoid the sanding by using this texturing, then prime with water-based to avoid being stunk out of house, then follow up with liberal app of (something like) creamy eggshell paint?? Kudos to you who do this kind of work. Feels like some kind of disability to put a painting tool into my hand 😧 Thanks again for the assist.
You just get the roller as close to the ceiling as possible without touching and that’s where the texture starts. Sounds like you got it covered. Hope that helped.
@@scottssheetrockservices Indeed. Thanks again. To confirm, wall in video HAD NOT been primed? Just apprehensive about trying to achieve the minimal texturing wife wants (when she can't do the job herself), while figuring out right mud mix & amount of time between first roller and your final 'gravity' rolling. It's tough to overcome apprehension about number of ways to imagine it going wrong. I was never any good at 'paint by numbers'😉
No, we prime after texture is dry
Can you use this to avoid sanding seams that are taped and mudded if you use a heavy nap ?
It does cover a lot, but you have to make sure you don’t have heavy edges or lap marks
what roller have you used for this method. Can you please share a link for the product? Thank you
It’s just a regular roller pad. The one I use is from Sherwin-Williams but you can buy one from Lowe’s or Home Depot depending on the thickness of the texture would depend on the thickness of the roller pad. If you have a very light texture, you can use a 3/8, if you have a medium texture, half-inch, heavy, textures, three-quarter, etc.. hope this helps
thank you@@scottssheetrockservices
Is the a Purdy Colossus roller? Thx.
EXCELLENT !!
thanks but if you hve good interior paint why do you need to primor first?
If you’re painting a flat wall, two coats of flat will suffice inside. If you’re doing an eggshell or a satin, you have to prime with a latex prior or it won’t cover.
So I'm fixing all the seam tape in a garage and am trying to match the wall texture. I put all the vertical tape back up and now trying to figure out how to match the texture. Do you recommend I try using a 1/2 or 3/4 nap? What product do you use for the mud? Can you use premade and just water it down? Appreciate your feedback!
@@seansandydrvenkar7177 yes you just thin regular mud down based on the thickness of the mud you can make heavier or lighter texture with the roller. I would use a half inch nap unless it’s really heavy. You may could try a three-quarter. Hope this helps.
Can I apply more than 1 coat
Apply two coats of texture? I guess you could but if the walls prepared correctly one coat should be fine! A second coat won’t look right just saying… have a Happy new year!
That texture looks awful.
No arguing with taste, I guess. This is what a lot of houses down here have and what people are used to.