I think at an adjustment for fine-ness when switching beans, the bowl cracked away from the burr housing. Mine isn't in two pieces, but grounds were leaking out to under the unit, wasting quite a bit of coffee. With your demonstration, I was able to isolate the break and glue it back up as you did here. Thank you!
Thanks. I picked one up at a liquidation center for $7. Hopper was broken exactly the same way. I suppose that was the reason for the return. Now I have a brand new grinder.
There are a couple of switches. I would unplug it, take the holding cup out and completely remove the hopper. Then gently bang the grinder upside down on something. Maybe bang it sideways some too. It may be coffee grounds are keeping the safety switches from closing. If not that it’s probably something electrical. Good luck.
Not really. It's a solvent base glue. After about 72 hours about all that is left is the plastic. And where it broke at, almost no contact with the beans.
Wow, thank you for the speedy response. One more question, if you don't mind: do you think that an extra ring of adhesive around the outer edge of the black plastic where it contacts the hopper bowl would do any good for further strength? The main reason I ask is because I have been through three of these grinders over the past 10-15 years and they keep breaking in the same spot. I tried gluing the last one, my current grinder, but after a couple of good years, it just snapped of again at the glue seam. I had been using food grade epoxy, though. I don't know if that's the proper glue as yours is.@@metalplasticelectronics354
With an epoxy it might help. I've only had so so results with epoxy on ABS. I don't think I've ever tried it on polycarbonate. The weld-on 16 will melt both of those plastics. I believe the 16 is a solvent with some plastic filler. The only thing with the weld-on 16 is you don't want to breath the fumes as it's curing.
I think at an adjustment for fine-ness when switching beans, the bowl cracked away from the burr housing. Mine isn't in two pieces, but grounds were leaking out to under the unit, wasting quite a bit of coffee. With your demonstration, I was able to isolate the break and glue it back up as you did here. Thank you!
Glad it helped. Thanks for the comment.
I was hoping the drawer did not have a lid. What a mess the lid makes.
Thanks. I picked one up at a liquidation center for $7. Hopper was broken exactly the same way. I suppose that was the reason for the return. Now I have a brand new grinder.
Nice deal, it’s a great little coffee grinder.
Gracias
Mine doesn’t turn on anymore, please save me in time for New Years 😭😭😭
There are a couple of switches. I would unplug it, take the holding cup out and completely remove the hopper. Then gently bang the grinder upside down on something. Maybe bang it sideways some too. It may be coffee grounds are keeping the safety switches from closing. If not that it’s probably something electrical. Good luck.
Are you concerned about the glue coming in contact with the ground coffee?
Not really. It's a solvent base glue. After about 72 hours about all that is left is the plastic. And where it broke at, almost no contact with the beans.
Wow, thank you for the speedy response. One more question, if you don't mind: do you think that an extra ring of adhesive around the outer edge of the black plastic where it contacts the hopper bowl would do any good for further strength? The main reason I ask is because I have been through three of these grinders over the past 10-15 years and they keep breaking in the same spot. I tried gluing the last one, my current grinder, but after a couple of good years, it just snapped of again at the glue seam. I had been using food grade epoxy, though. I don't know if that's the proper glue as yours is.@@metalplasticelectronics354
With an epoxy it might help. I've only had so so results with epoxy on ABS. I don't think I've ever tried it on polycarbonate. The weld-on 16 will melt both of those plastics. I believe the 16 is a solvent with some plastic filler. The only thing with the weld-on 16 is you don't want to breath the fumes as it's curing.