I would change the reg/rec as the voltage was still fluctuating a lot more than I would expect and at times dropping below 13v when revved. It looks a lot like the reg/rec is not doing it's job
Your fluctuation in voltage could be due to the meter probes not being properly connected to the battery terminals. If they are only poked in, they could be bouncing and breaking contact momentarily with the vibration as the revs go up. Ideally they should be connected with crocodile clips. If you want to check for voltage drop between the connector and the battery the easiest way is to connect one probe to the +ve pin at the connector (regulator side), with it plugged in, and the other to the battery +ve terminal, then run engine with loads turned on (ie, lights if they are switchable). Voltage measured should be virtually nil. You can then repeat with negative terminals to check earth side. The other point is, you can only get accurate results from charging tests if the battery is healthy and fully charged.
As others have said good connections, crocodile clips to battery, are essential to correctly test voltages. Also you have virtually nothing to gain here by hot wiring the RR direct to the battery, you previously tested the wiring loom with battery voltage at the RR and less than a 0.2v drop between RR and battery positive and negative cables which proves the wiring loom is good.
Fully charge your bike battery. Put fresh batteries in your tester as old ones can give poor results. Test the AC output of the new stator. Go down the Winchester, have a beer and wait for all of this to blow over.
I think you were maybe trying to remember Electrosport, but yeah, being of a certain age, my brain always goes to Electrolux first, if it wasnt Electrosport it may be Electrexworld who are a few miles away from me.As for that mystery cable, maybe the remains of what was a permanent aftermarket cable for plugging into a battery tender/charger, as the positioning and the in line fuse, gives that impression.It did seem to be jumping around a lot voltage wise when being revved.Try running it for a few mins just on idle, to see a steady/increasing voltage and then rev it to 4k-5k to see if it smoothes out the jumping around, or, give it a full charge from a tender/charger and then try it
Is it necessary to drain the oil out of the bike before you remove the stator cover? How much if any oil drains out when you remove the cover? I haven't been able to find a single video that shows or explains that.
Try this one mate. ua-cam.com/video/OZIGgBD64Kw/v-deo.htmlsi=KfoWdyUzslMrFo5A Simple answer is 'some' but it's a good idea to change the oil at the same time.
@@NatsNackersYard thanks. Mine went this weekend left me stranded 75 miles from Manchester on the M6 toll left from Kent. RAC brought it all the way back for me
@@NatsNackersYard I've done the diagnostics this morning. All the yellow phase cables are going straight to battery ground so all my coils are shorting out. I think it's fried chicken
Cheers for the vid! 👍🏼
Hope that it helped mate.
I would change the reg/rec as the voltage was still fluctuating a lot more than I would expect and at times dropping below 13v when revved. It looks a lot like the reg/rec is not doing it's job
I think that i will shortly. Seems to be holding its own for now.
All very sensible precautions, but for my money i'm pretty sure it will be fine now.
Better but not perfect. Still quite low but at least it is charging now.
Your fluctuation in voltage could be due to the meter probes not being properly connected to the battery terminals. If they are only poked in, they could be bouncing and breaking contact momentarily with the vibration as the revs go up. Ideally they should be connected with crocodile clips. If you want to check for voltage drop between the connector and the battery the easiest way is to connect one probe to the +ve pin at the connector (regulator side), with it plugged in, and the other to the battery +ve terminal, then run engine with loads turned on (ie, lights if they are switchable). Voltage measured should be virtually nil. You can then repeat with negative terminals to check earth side.
The other point is, you can only get accurate results from charging tests if the battery is healthy and fully charged.
Thanks Rick. All seems good if a little low.
As others have said good connections, crocodile clips to battery, are essential to correctly test voltages. Also you have virtually nothing to gain here by hot wiring the RR direct to the battery, you previously tested the wiring loom with battery voltage at the RR and less than a 0.2v drop between RR and battery positive and negative cables which proves the wiring loom is good.
I think that you are right there.
🏍👍👍
🏍️💪💪
Fully charge your bike battery.
Put fresh batteries in your tester as old ones can give poor results.
Test the AC output of the new stator.
Go down the Winchester, have a beer and wait for all of this to blow over.
Sorted!
I think you were maybe trying to remember Electrosport, but yeah, being of a certain age, my brain always goes to Electrolux first, if it wasnt Electrosport it may be Electrexworld who are a few miles away from me.As for that mystery cable, maybe the remains of what was a permanent aftermarket cable for plugging into a battery tender/charger, as the positioning and the in line fuse, gives that impression.It did seem to be jumping around a lot voltage wise when being revved.Try running it for a few mins just on idle, to see a steady/increasing voltage and then rev it to 4k-5k to see if it smoothes out the jumping around, or, give it a full charge from a tender/charger and then try it
I have chucked it on a full charge. It's better but still not going as high as I thought that it would
Should be ok Nat good idea to take a spare battery though👍
Top box time!
First!
Boom!
Is it necessary to drain the oil out of the bike before you remove the stator cover? How much if any oil drains out when you remove the cover? I haven't been able to find a single video that shows or explains that.
Try this one mate. ua-cam.com/video/OZIGgBD64Kw/v-deo.htmlsi=KfoWdyUzslMrFo5A
Simple answer is 'some' but it's a good idea to change the oil at the same time.
so what code did this throw up, i have code 34 wich could relate to voltage drop.
No fault codes on my 07 mate
Did you have to drain the oil to remove the stator
No mate. There was some leak to catch but I didn't have to drain it.
@@NatsNackersYard thanks. Mine went this weekend left me stranded 75 miles from Manchester on the M6 toll left from Kent. RAC brought it all the way back for me
Might be worth checking your battery too. I think the stator utterly shagged mine on the way out.
@@NatsNackersYard I've done the diagnostics this morning. All the yellow phase cables are going straight to battery ground so all my coils are shorting out. I think it's fried chicken
Ouch! Have fun.
once you topbox you cant go back
Unfortunately, very true!