I serviced my Sony cd player, with a similar problem last month. The drawer would slip on inserting a disc, not lock then not play. I changed the belt and lubed the mechanism but that didn't fix the problem. What it turned out to be is that when a cd is inserted the clamping mechanism closes more than when a cd is not in there. The clamping springs got a memory effect so they would not close completely with a cd inserted. The player is lightly used and left empty. I had to remove the springs and cycle then through their full range of travel to free them up, then the tray would lock up and play properly after that.
The marantz cd52 has the same Philips cd transport (although the rear channel to detect cd tray closed is less elaborate) so this video is a great guide for those looking to fix/replace their cd tray cog
Looks like the same laser , motor and tray assembly that I repaired at work for 12 years. A Studer D731...Make sure that you put a dab of grease on the 4 white pins from the tray assembly in time..ours were used 24 / 7!
Thanks a lot. You did a great job and I appreciate your extra tips and tricks as to what all you can do to repair. Sadly after I fixed this issue with your help here, mine won't read the CD's LOL. If it ain't one thing, it's another, right?
These old Philips swing arm decks were as solid as a rock, even if the overall Belgian build quality was light years behind the Japanese (plastic chassis, poor soldering on the main boards etc). Then when the costs associated with the mechs became prohibitive Philips copied the Sony design (as did Sanyo, Sharp, JVC etc), and unfortunately managed to come up with something far less reliable than the design they cloned. These old CDMs last forever, as do the JVC and Sanyo copies of the Sony 3-beam mechanisms (the Sonys themselves don't hold up as well), but the VAM1200 Philips series that followed are always failing in a load of different ways. The best CD players ever built for reliability IMO were the early 90s Technics/Panasonics; they coupled the Philips CDM mechanism as seen here with vastly improved overall build quality and additional features.
They have allot of plastic for sure, but the mechanism is so simple, there is not much to fail. Best CD player IMHO is some of the early Sonys like the CDP-555ES. That unit weighs about 20 kilos and has a solid copper chassis. I have one, it is as old as the hills and works as good as the day it came out of the box. Sounds absolutely fantastic too. The best sounding CD player I have heard. Thats why I bought it way back when it was new.
I have a CDP-337ESD (the photo you can see for my profile on here is of the drive) which I worked on yesterday, I had to grease the laser sled and I also need to replace the belt for the tray as on testing, it struggled to close. The mechanism is similar to that of your 555 - a mind blowing, over engineered beauty. All metal parts and smooth, lightening fast operation. I love it, I hope it lasts me a few more years. Mine doesn't have a copper chassis, but it does have the "G-Base" under the drive and inside the drive for isolation. Brilliant players. I dread to think how much it'd cost to produce it today.
It's a linear motor. I've taken the transport completely apart before, you can even disassemble the motor and see the large coils which the magnet hovers over for the CD spindle. Great players. Once the laser dies, it'll be for the trash, though. Replacement lasers are so rare and generally, players like my 337 are bought for £250 (or there abouts) to repair the Accuphase and other high end brands who used the same drive in a few of their players.
Great Info on this production. On a side note, I actual like torque screws. Big transformer for a CD/ROM, but the entire case looks to be plastic, go figure.
Smashing repair and unit, it does look very nice. Ive worked on some nightmare units, getting some back in synk can be a pain. Also on some nasty cd players, the switches have tiny rods of plastic that fit in different parts of the mechanism, they break off and i end up sinking sewing needles into the switch plastic and glue wire insulation on to the pins to re create them, not fun :-(
@@12voltvids The reason for my watching is because I have a CD-Master 48E Model SC-148 that is successfully ejecting only after about every 7 tries. I realize that these internal PC drives are a dime a dozen and this one is a plain CD drive but it should work well in my Commodore Amiga 2000 as it has legacy ATAPI firmware. :)
Where can quality belts be purchased, also lithium grease? Looking to stock my work station. I really like your work station set up video, could you do one on shop testing equipment training? Thank you for the training you provide on these videos
I guess the player only follows the red book standard were the maximum audio tracks of a compact disc is restricted to 99 tracks. Would be interesting how many players handle more then 99 tracks.
How my CDP555ES does it is on track 99, where track 100 would begin, it shows as index 2. It shows not only the main tracks, which are limited to 99 as per thr red book standard, but it can also search out sub index tracks, which were seldom used in any recordings. If I remember correctly they used them in some of the Fresh Aire released by Manheim Steamroller. Most CD players these days don not display index, never mind access them as a sub track.
That depends on the current requirement. 24ga solid copper is a good choice for most PCB interconnecting for low current requirements. This is standard network wire like found in cat5 cabling.
I have one of these units. Was working fine. I opened it to clean the lens and it worked fine after that. But the next day I powered it up and there was no display, the drawer would not open. Nothing worked. I opened it to see whats going on and it was getting power but the CD would only spin for a few seconds and then stop. And still no display lit up. Is this something you can fix? What do you think is going on here?
No mystery on any cd dvd players when doors don't open or they stick it's always belt problems the remedy to just use rubber bands same size as original belts if they can't be found.
Dave, that was meant to be a joke. Immune system - Isolation transformer.....not getting sick. Oh well, if you have to explain it, it probably wasn't funny...
I serviced my Sony cd player, with a similar problem last month. The drawer would slip on inserting a disc, not lock then not play. I changed the belt and lubed the mechanism but that didn't fix the problem. What it turned out to be is that when a cd is inserted the clamping mechanism closes more than when a cd is not in there. The clamping springs got a memory effect so they would not close completely with a cd inserted. The player is lightly used and left empty. I had to remove the springs and cycle then through their full range of travel to free them up, then the tray would lock up and play properly after that.
The marantz cd52 has the same Philips cd transport (although the rear channel to detect cd tray closed is less elaborate) so this video is a great guide for those looking to fix/replace their cd tray cog
Looks like the same laser , motor and tray assembly that I repaired at work for 12 years. A Studer D731...Make sure that you put a dab of grease on the 4 white pins from the tray assembly in time..ours were used 24 / 7!
Thanks a lot. You did a great job and I appreciate your extra tips and tricks as to what all you can do to repair. Sadly after I fixed this issue with your help here, mine won't read the CD's LOL. If it ain't one thing, it's another, right?
These old Philips swing arm decks were as solid as a rock, even if the overall Belgian build quality was light years behind the Japanese (plastic chassis, poor soldering on the main boards etc). Then when the costs associated with the mechs became prohibitive Philips copied the Sony design (as did Sanyo, Sharp, JVC etc), and unfortunately managed to come up with something far less reliable than the design they cloned. These old CDMs last forever, as do the JVC and Sanyo copies of the Sony 3-beam mechanisms (the Sonys themselves don't hold up as well), but the VAM1200 Philips series that followed are always failing in a load of different ways.
The best CD players ever built for reliability IMO were the early 90s Technics/Panasonics; they coupled the Philips CDM mechanism as seen here with vastly improved overall build quality and additional features.
They have allot of plastic for sure, but the mechanism is so simple, there is not much to fail.
Best CD player IMHO is some of the early Sonys like the CDP-555ES. That unit weighs about 20 kilos and has a solid copper chassis. I have one, it is as old as the hills and works as good as the day it came out of the box. Sounds absolutely fantastic too. The best sounding CD player I have heard. Thats why I bought it way back when it was new.
I have a CDP-337ESD (the photo you can see for my profile on here is of the drive) which I worked on yesterday, I had to grease the laser sled and I also need to replace the belt for the tray as on testing, it struggled to close.
The mechanism is similar to that of your 555 - a mind blowing, over engineered beauty. All metal parts and smooth, lightening fast operation. I love it, I hope it lasts me a few more years. Mine doesn't have a copper chassis, but it does have the "G-Base" under the drive and inside the drive for isolation. Brilliant players. I dread to think how much it'd cost to produce it today.
I haven't looked under the top on the 337.
Is it a gear drive for the sled or a linear motor. The 555 is a inear motor.
It's a linear motor. I've taken the transport completely apart before, you can even disassemble the motor and see the large coils which the magnet hovers over for the CD spindle. Great players.
Once the laser dies, it'll be for the trash, though. Replacement lasers are so rare and generally, players like my 337 are bought for £250 (or there abouts) to repair the Accuphase and other high end brands who used the same drive in a few of their players.
Yes the laser assembly is rare alright, but these ones were very well made. I have never seen one fail.
Very useful. Thanks!
Thank you for the video. Where can I buy new belts & what kind of grease do I buy & where do I buy it? This is all new to me.🙂
Great Info on this production. On a side note, I actual like torque screws. Big transformer for a CD/ROM, but the entire case looks to be plastic, go figure.
Smashing repair and unit, it does look very nice.
Ive worked on some nightmare units, getting some back in synk can be a pain.
Also on some nasty cd players, the switches have tiny rods of plastic that fit in different parts of the mechanism, they break off and i end up sinking sewing needles into the switch plastic and glue wire insulation on to the pins to re create them, not fun :-(
i guess I'm kinda randomly asking but does anyone know of a good site to stream newly released movies online?
@Fabian Tucker Flixportal :)
@Ulises Shane Thanks, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I really appreciate it !!
@Fabian Tucker No problem =)
I'm watching this video and I say: "Hey! I have that Sound Effects CD!" lol
There are 4 in the set.
@@12voltvids The reason for my watching is because I have a CD-Master 48E Model SC-148 that is successfully ejecting only after about every 7 tries. I realize that these internal PC drives are a dime a dozen and this one is a plain CD drive but it should work well in my Commodore Amiga 2000 as it has legacy ATAPI firmware. :)
I have a CDB 482 with the same issue. Where can I buy a belt for this unit?
Where can quality belts be purchased, also lithium grease? Looking to stock my work station. I really like your work station set up video, could you do one on shop testing equipment training?
Thank you for the training you provide on these videos
I guess the player only follows the red book standard were the maximum audio tracks of a compact disc is restricted to 99 tracks. Would be interesting how many players handle more then 99 tracks.
How my CDP555ES does it is on track 99, where track 100 would begin, it shows as index 2.
It shows not only the main tracks, which are limited to 99 as per thr red book standard, but it can also search out sub index tracks, which were seldom used in any recordings.
If I remember correctly they used them in some of the Fresh Aire released by Manheim Steamroller.
Most CD players these days don not display index, never mind access them as a sub track.
again, no ads on this video.
I had a lidswitch issue on mine back in 2019. Technics machine.
Hope your feeling better now?
Thanx for the video.. where's my screwdriver!
very nice film. thank you
Badass Casio wristwatch!
It's rare. Perhaps I need to do a video on it, but no I won't be taking it apart.
@@12voltvids Looking forward to it :)
I want solid wire for stuffing PCBs. What is the gauge of wire that I want?
Frank
That depends on the current requirement. 24ga solid copper is a good choice for most PCB interconnecting for low current requirements. This is standard network wire like found in cat5 cabling.
What are 'Cody' installation videos?
It's "KODI" and it is a media player formerly known as XBMC.
Typical Philips based player,,nice CDM4/19 mech,,,
I have one of these units. Was working fine. I opened it to clean the lens and it worked fine after that. But the next day I powered it up and there was no display, the drawer would not open. Nothing worked. I opened it to see whats going on and it was getting power but the CD would only spin for a few seconds and then stop. And still no display lit up. Is this something you can fix? What do you think is going on here?
No mystery on any cd dvd players when doors don't open or they stick it's always belt problems the remedy to just use rubber bands same size as original belts if they can't be found.
You totally forgot to plug your immune system in to your isolation transformer. Tsk, tsk!
That plug on the right side of my bench is on the isolation transformer.
Dave, that was meant to be a joke. Immune system - Isolation transformer.....not getting sick. Oh well, if you have to explain it, it probably wasn't funny...