He's Dead Jim
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- Опубліковано 22 січ 2024
- He's dead Jim. Where is the Batteriser when you need it?
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Classic Lead Acid 'sudden death syndrome'. It's usually caused by corrosion of the positive grid; the low impedance paths end up blowing like fuses, leaving only the high impedance ones. Keeping Lead acid alive is a delicate balancing act between under/overcharge. Chronic undercharge kills faster than overcharge, but both are bad and automotive charging systems are notoriously bad. Spent too many hours of my like testing Lead acid for electric vehicle racing in the 90's.
Would say more like all the acid has boiled out the water, and the remainder is damp cells and well sulphated electrodes. Undo that hold down, pop off that top cover there, and underneath you will find the 6 filler caps. Open them and all cells will be drier than a dingo's dingaling. Fill up to level, charge for 12 hours on a regular car battery charger, around 3A, and you get another year or two out, but the best is to check those battery levels and fill up as needed, before the cells expose the grids. Sealed for life sticker, just means will last longer than warranty before boiling all the water out.
Yes, I tested it with the headlight start test just a few weeks ago.
@@SeanBZA not all car batteries even in the same batch are created equal. gems exist.
by buying the right battery and regular maintenance, im getting MANY extra years from cheap ones.
Should get a batteriser on there.
*batteroo
"He's dead Jim", that was my thought when my computers BIOS battery read 0.7 volts (without load) and didn't even get a warning, just one specific BIOS-setting suddenly kept resetting to default (virtualization disabled) and that's it as far as symptoms went. No "replace BIOS battery" alert or anything like it... At least with cars there are obvious symptoms.
Recently went through the dead battery game with the wife's Subaru Outback. New battery crapped out quickly. Turned out to be the built in cell phone module and is a common failure. Pulled the fuse for the useless feature and all is happy now.
4,500km in a car doesn't sound like much of a holiday - sounds more like torture.,
Depends where you live though, yes a fair amount for a holiday, but if you are spending it over a week or so, and seeing a good number of places, with at most 3 hours of drive between them, except for the one trip to the middle of Buggerthereandgoneville, which is the furtherest point, quite easy to do.
Common in Australia with the distances
@@hoofie2002 Yes, I realise this as a NZer. But it still stands that thats a LOT of time in spent a car when you're supposedly on holiday.
@@hoofie2002 Even in South Africa common enough, though normally the most we would do in a day was 900km, basically travelling almost half the country. When I was young a trip of 1500km on each weekend was not even something to blink at.
@@SeanBZA Longest stint was 5 hours.
"We didn't take the EV"... didn't see that coming
the ideal moment to try the stick welder revitalize method.
Get a jump start before buying a new battery in order to check the alternator. The meter should go well over 13v if the alienator is supplying charge to the battery
Check that there is no corrosion between the terminals and battery post, I noticed your meter was connected to the posts and not the terminal itself. Driving with a bad battery will wear out your alternator.
There isn't, it's the battery. You can see leakage on the left side.
Wow 4.500 KM trip in one country? Did not know that Austria is that big!
Well it is a continent. Smallest continent, but still pretty big :-)
That's only a one way trip across Australia. 9000km if you want to come back.
@@benbaselet2026 Austria isn't a continent.
@@Okurka. Oh F, got me! :D
Compare the size of the US with Australia - the latter is just a little smaller.
We bought a used 2014 Seat Leon ST 1.2 TSi to replace our rusted out 2001 Avensis 1.8.
One bonus is the £290 tax became £30, despite the same performance due to a turbo (it's based on CO2 emissions).
Eventually I spotted under the fabric battery cover it was weeping, bulging and deposited white powder which corroded the holder.
I found they'd left the little red transport bung in the rear of the Exide stop/start battery. I didn't mention it and they replaced it with a new VW branded one.
Thanks for all the vids, good brain fodder on a wonderfully diverse variety of levels.
So many go through life without leaving a legacy.
You inform, inquire, puzzle, entertain and sometimes tease to get thinking people thinking. Nice.
Also.... got a warm fuzzy feeling to think that that inanimate battery hung on until you and your family got home.
Looks more of a terminal connection issue to me, strange that the battery was good enough to start the car to get you there, but now is so bad it won't even support turning ignition on
Dry cells, the trip boiled off the last bit of water in one cell.
Nope.
I always thought you have to remove those red plugs/caps/bungs (for transportation) after installing the battery, in order for it to vent properly.
I started having issues with my 12v battery in my EV, which left me nearly stranded a couple of times inside of a week (going to the dealer soon to hopefully address this). Didn’t leave me stranded because I keep a booster box with me. I’ve used it on other people’s cars more than mine tbh. But I posted on Mastodon my frustrations and the anti-EV crowd jumped on it calling it an EV problem and why we shouldn’t be using EVs and all that nonsense. I swear they huff too much of their own fumes.
Many EVs have rather small 12V batteries, my BMW i3 is notorious for getting all kinds of problems when the 12V ages. Just replace the damn thing every 4 years and don't wait until it actually fails.
EV owners huff their own farts.
@@benbaselet2026 Mine has a normal sized car battery. Probably the same battery the maker puts in their gas cars.
Don't leave the car on charge too long, as the 12V battery is not charged on some cars but it powering the electronics that support the main battery charging. So prolonged charging can flatten the 12V one. happened to the Macmaster when he left the car on charge and went away for a week. 🙂
@@TheEmbeddedHobbyist I’ve confirmed that my car actually runs the recombination charge while plugged in for charging, which it does not attempt while driving. It’s a calcium battery, which requires higher charging voltage for recombination. The charging system, while plugged in, runs at 14.8v, while it runs at 13.4v while driving. Verified with various monitoring tools, meters, etc. My problem is I don’t drive a ton so I charge maybe once a week to every other week, so the 12v battery was not getting enough appropriate maintenance.
Charged lead-acid car batteries open circuit voltage couldn't be under 12.8V. In Sydney's climate, it's good to service them out of the vehicle twice a year (ones a year charge plus 20 hours discharge and a full charge and the second time just charge to 100%), unless vehicle is driven every day for not less than 25km after each engine start. If the vehicle stays mostly stationary it's good to top the battery each month.
Some cars turn off some features if the alternator is detected to not be working. On my car, when the alternator went (just after I`d replaced the battery, as it happens) the power steering was disabled.
I built a supercap / LiFePO₄ hybrid for my car. Works OK, but the size LiFePO₄ that I could fit has a lot less capacity, so standing for weeks or operating radio, etc while car is off can sometimes drain it...
(I have a charger on a 10W solar panel on the boot cover (going to an outlet in the boot) to give me some margin for forgetting to unplug the dashcam, at least if the car is parked outside)
Ran it a few weeks with just the 6×3000F caps, works well to start, but doesn't survive 24h without being started.
Not all EVs use lead acid. Tesla switched to 16v Lithium for their low voltage system late 2021 or early 2022.
A small handheld lithium battery jumper would get you home or too your local auto store to replace the battery. Lead acid batteries over 5-6 years old are going to strand you.
Usually some sort of internal short with those symptoms. Alternator is probably fine.
Damn auto-ranging. These days I set the range before measuring because I want a stable display while voltage changes.
Tip: ALWAYS mwasure at the posts, not the attached clamp, etc,
Needs a Mr Fusion!
Not every car is still using lead acid batteries. The Elantra Hybrid now uses a Lithium Iron polymer battery integrated into the high voltage battery. It actually has a low voltage cutoff and a button inside to reset the cutoff to start the car if dead due to the cutoff.
I plan on buying an EV some day. When I do, I hope that I don't develop that smug superior attitude that many EV owners seem to acquire towards ICE vehicles. They both have their place.
How old is the battery ?
Modern batteries just don’t last like those of our parents generation.
5 years seems a good outcome now
The one in this car lasts 2-3 years on average.
Pays extra to "exclusively get green electricity" from the grid; takes the ICE car to do a 4500 km trip.
"Stump the chump": It looks like corrosion at the positive battery terminal causing open circuit. It was hard to see the positive terminal in your video. It happened to me this year I just reseated the connector and everything worked. Maybe not a common thing in AU and the battery is indeed bad. IDK
Happened to me a along time ago. I had borrowed my fathers car to help a friend with moving some furniture. Then the car just died and the starter didn't work. My friend knew a car mechanic and called him. He immediately said it sounded like a bad battery terminal connection. I checked but it seemed fine to me. The mechanic came by as he was in the neighborhood. He took a good grip of the connection shoes, twisted them back and forth and the car started flawlessly. So yea, definitely worth checking for corrosion in the battery connection.
Nope. In this case I can see some sort of leakage on the left side around the top.
@@EEVblog2 Doh! oh well.
I got 9 y out of my factory Toyota battery...then sudden death kicked in. Absolutely no warning...just cactus.
The battery got weak in my Toyota. Checked the battery and it turned out to be original install in a 20 year old car... Still took charge enough to start the car and worked for daily driving. But leave the car standing untouched for two weeks and the battery was not able to run the starter without getting 15 minutes of charge.
Wow, 20 years. I thought 9 was pretty good!@@blahorgaslisk7763
2-3 years life seems unusual, either poor quality to begin with or not charging properly. The difference with an ICE is that it won't cost at least 25% of the value of the vehicle to replace the battery.
Don't turn it on! Take it apart! :)
Good idea always carry a portable starters, they are pretty cheap, I never had to use it on my cars, but save a few neighbors and even a friend's generator😅 (a model without manual recoil, only electric starter geez)
I don't use my car much either and don't do a lot of miles with and the battery is going. Is there a lightweight (10 - 15kg max I think) portable lithium battery that I could use to start the car with so that I don't need the amps from the battery? I could recharged that portable battery in the house (don't have a garage or driveway so I can't hook up the car to a charger). Any recommendations are welcome.
Could use a ~12ah 12v lifepo4 battery, boost module up to 13.6v, 100mA PTC 'backfed' into your radio's 'always on' connection (use a 500mA m205 fast blow fuse), with suitable connections to easily uplug it, to keep your car battery float charged. Keep another 12v ~12ah battery ready to swap & charge roughly every week. Assuming floating at 13.6v pulls ~33mA. Lifepo4 might get a bit too hot to go in engine bay, hence the idea of using the radio power wire and have under the seat or somewhere else inside. Cover the lifepo4 battery's terminals :)
*use a current limiting boost module set to say 80mA.
If you were going to do this, I'd fully charge the car battery first, then float charge it for 24 hours, then take note of the current needed to (keep it float charged + the car's parasitic loads.) My old car uses 33mA; not sure how newer cars might compare.
Search for "battery jump starter", they're not much bigger than a power bank.
@@Okurka. I read reviews of buttons falling off. Would prefer recommendations based on experience rather than generic advice but thanks for your comment.
Having seen so many dead car batteries really surprised to see the amount of voltage drop you get when they go cactus like this.
Good timing on the failure considering if happened after the holiday.
How long will it take to walk home?
Less than 20min.
@@EEVblog2 Why doesn't the wife pick you up?
@@EEVblog2 That's very close. You can use a bicycle for that distance.
Checked your battery acid/water level.
Open voltage at 12.6V suggests no dead/shorted flat cells. High Rs is often from insufficient fluid level within one to all cells, thereby severely reducing current capacity, thus high Rs. Even claimed sealed car batteries can lose fluid levrl over the years.
If the open voltage were eell down, then having just travelled long distances, current state of country roads and highwzys often a bit rough, and especially corrugated dirt riads/highway, older batteries begin to flake materials off cell plates, that settle low as sludge. A very conductive sludge that in effect creates internal currents within cells leaving battery tending to self flatten over hours sranding. HOWEVER if 12.6V is present unlosded that is not so likely.
Do examine thecwater levels and if required add some distlled water to required normsl level, you may yet keep the battery working.
If over 3 to 5 years depending on battery grade, it may truely be dead of age.
Used to replace mum's Corolla battery with cheaper Lucas batteries, 2 yr warantee battery was dead within no more than 2.5 yrs, 3 yr battery no more than a month or two past gurantee time. That behaviour went for over 15 years, with original Japanese battery holding for 6 of those 15+ years.
Most modern batteries are non-servicable.
@EEVblog2 I had forcsome time had seversl instances of flat battery, Even had to call RACV (our NRMA) for a jump start while shopping. Also failed restart in my driveway needing pulling a power cord, and recharginging. Finally got a modern LiIon jumper batter pack, and after seversl jump starts using that, went and bought a replacement battery.
On going to fit that made a discovery about what I believed a fully sealed battery.
Thought that too about sealed battery, but on releasing the retaining strap it did have a flip up cover to access the cells acid wells. Was very low on content. Topping up the levels found the battery was on fact quite functional. Three months on still working fine.
While OEM battery used by car manufacturer may well be completely sealed as manufacture to fitting on car is very controlled time.
In fact batteries sold in the market are manufactured and shipped dry. The acid is added at retail point, or wholesale distributor at earliest. Otherwise a battery may already be significantly aged/deteriorated by time of sale.
Yes, the batteries no longer have exposed screw off caps, often only a single inspection "eye" check window, typically a little green dot if ok, or red, or even black nothing, if bad. Battery top has a flip up cover, under which are the old filler caps, with screw driver removable design.
If yours is fully sealed, tough luck, only replacing is an option. But if the battery is over 7 years old it may as well get scrapped. Most Japanese batteries last at least that long, unless damaged by vibration after lots of corrugated dirt road driving. But that is more an issue on 4WD typical usage, where I have seen dead, shorting cells on a battery only 1 year old, even specially designed 4WD service types, with support mesh on the lead plates .
By the way, I have 40.5 years background in Automotive vehicle engineering and development and 10 years in service station operation in my teens at dad's petrol station and workshop.
Maintenance free crap. Totally sealed battery
Just not a thing these days. Based on the massive voltage drop I suspect a broken internal connection.
Heh, we call my old ICE ute "the ugga lugga" whenever we have to drag it out for a load of firewood :)
Looks like the electricity is the problem. Not the ICE
Don't people buy cheap light car battries from regular shopping centre. You may buy new battery again after one year.
Those things not have much material inside.
Altronics M8521A are ideal for float charging (13.6v) if not driving for more than a couple of days.
A couple of days? You could go for almost a couple of months without problem in many cases, or at least a couple of weeks.
@@EEVblog2 I'm trying to see how many years I can get out of the car battery :)
@@jimmybrad156 Float charging reduces life.
@@SinsBird how so
@@jimmybrad156 Because the electrolyte is kept at highest gravity meaning that it has the most concentrated sulfuric acid meaning that the corrosion is going at the highest rate. Not only that, most float chargers have voltage set too high heating up the battery, making bubbles, said bubbles ripping material off of the plates.
ya, might wanna check the alternator as well, especially when it is so easy to access, would be a no-brainer.
The alternator is fine or the battery wouldn't be 12.6V.
How old is the battery?
On the left side acid came out of the battery…. Fill up water…
Yep, noticed that after I shot the video. Modern batteries are usually not servicable.
i'd have named it after a long distance runner, and the EV after a 100yrd sprinter 🙂
hows that timing tho.. dies when ya get home from a trip.. what are the odds?!..
ya probably got a short somewhere if its dropped so low so quick...or some .. left the internal light on! :P
My (unfortunately) vast experience with dead car batteries is that they rarely show 12.6 volts when they're bad. Especially if they're still hooked up, there's always something in modern cars on standby draining it. Possibly a bad connection, maybe even inside the battery. Of course, if it were mine I'd still change the battery and repurpose the old one (for some low amperage task) if it turns out to be good. I'm sure you could find something to do with a car battery, just remember that's not a deep cycle battery
Oh, and check your alternator. Alternators like to take batteries with them when they die
Usually a internal short with those symptoms.
With 12.6V unloaded, which is pretty much normal full state of charge, my guess'd be that the alternator is OK. If it didn't charge (or actively discharged from shorted rectifying diode(s))
, I'd expect a lower unloaded voltage (indicating discharged battery)
@@michaeltempsch5282 Alternator OK, and a battery with no water in it. Open cover and fill water, and charge, and it likely will do another year. Incidentally no difference in the battery between the one year warranty and the 2 year warranty, the 2 year one they charge you more, because there is a 10% chance that it will fail before then, but a 5% chance you will both have the slip for warranty claim, and bring it back for the free replacement.
@@SeanBZA I like bosch S5 batteries myself. Here in the UK they come with a 5 year warranty, and despite the temps being down to -6C last week, my car still fired up fine with the battery on its 7th year.
Edit: They are expensive though, around £160 or $478,000 kanga dollars
@@michaeltempsch5282 Yeah I agree, the alternator is almost certainly ok with that voltage, plus you would normally get a warning light if it wasn't charging properly.
Yeah fairly normal dead battery, happens pretty much once a week at my work.
The nice thing is the electric equipment didn't want to work at all last week.
Temperature bellow zero isn't great for lithium but diesel kept on trucking😂
Zero C, F or K?
@@Throckmorton.Scribblemonger celcius
Most likely your long trip shook a lot of the lead off the plates
Don't worry Dave, EV traction bat is not far behind:D
30 second vid compressed into 5 minutes.
you know you love it
It could be a single line of text.
12.6 state of charge = good alt
Hmm 4,500km return, so that's about 2,250km from Sydney, to a place in the outback where there's a river? Guesses anyone? Somewhere up north?
Or they did a trip along the coast line and included Kangaroo Island.
Battery problems are the leading cause of failures of ICE vehicles - the battery dies, especially in winter time when cold weather requires more current for the starter to crank the engine, and the headlights, heaters, and other high draw loads put a large strain on the charging system so short trips might not be able to fully charge the battery. EVs will suffer the same problem to a lesser degree - you don't need hundreds of CCAs to start an EV, but you need to supply probably the 20+ A initially to start up all the ECUs and then kick in the HV battery contactor. Once that kicks in, the Dc-DC converter will take over supplying 12V from the HV battery. This can greatly extend the life of the battery. I have a hybrid, and the battery was measuring bad for 5 years now, but it only had to supply around 25A to get everything started because once the hybrid traction battery kicked in, it supplied the 12V and cranked the engine.
My parents killed the car battery on the day before holiday. it's fun to get a battery on Friday evening
The grid is cracked/broken inside.
Just pop on down to the parts store in that Sinclair C5! No wuckers!
The frame is forever split.
It will act that same way with a bad connection at the battery posts. It's worth a try to take them off and clean them all up-- fully charge the battery: and try again. A good thing that really cleans up the posts is baking soda and hot water. It will neutralize any battery acid and corrosion around the posts- really well. Then again, if the battery is 5 to 8 years old-- you already won the lottery and can't really ask for more.
Put on the lights, and measure on the poles themselves (not the clamps) and you'll know.
Lets get some AAs to charge em up. 😂
Batteriser!
@@EEVblog2 *batteroo
High ESR kills yet another. Broken plate or something.
battery is done!! or a loose connection
Don''t see how a loose connection would pull it down to 5v.
A multimeter, like some sort of a cave man? :O Put an oscilloscope on it (and why not a current probe along with that) and collect some proper data! ;)
Seriously, we want to see that test with the new battery. Might surprise a few people with how much current the starter uses perhaps.
This video was secretly a plug for the EEVblog branded multimeter.
@@Okurka. There might be a market for an EEVblog branded scope! ;)
its just not the battery, check the alternator is charging when you get it running, also check for a drain/load on the battery when the car is off. need to get ya self a jump pack
edit pity its auto or you could roll start it
Nisan, so a Denso alternator, which is pretty reliable. Replace battery, plug in diagnostics tool and do a battery reset, and it will be fine again.
The alternator is obviously charging or he wouldn't have 12.6v. Same with a current drain, if there was one then the battery would be at 8-10volts.
This is almost certainly an internal battery fault, have seen the same symptoms plenty of times.
@@MattyEngland Yes was sitting in my car this afternoon, and the battery was at 12V3 with almost no load. Correct for a fully charged lead acid battery sitting at around 50C under the bonnet. On start it went up to 14V1, then 14V8 for 10 minutes as the ECU charged the battery back up, then dropped down to 14V0 just before turn off. Great how modern ECU units can try their best to manage the battery for best life, unlike the old alternator regulator that simply charged with all the current the battery could take and only a temperature controlled guess on battery voltage, based on how toasty the regulator was. And before that it was a generator, with the charging controlled by a magnetic amplifier, made from calibrated relays.
Bad cell most likely
What's so dramatic about that dead battery?
Happens to millions every day!
What's so dramatic about this video that you had to comment?
you know you love it
It's to show his multimeter.
@@EEVblog2
To check how your BOT is performing.
How old is that battery? Car batteries seem to last about 6 years and then RIP!
2-3 years average for this car.
@@EEVblog2wow! That’s not long. I just replaced mine after 7 years; car was still starting but was struggling a little in cold weather.
use some super caps
i rather replace a single battery then pay someone tens of thousands to replace a pack then have it blocked from charging
Ice Battery costs $100. Ev battery costs $50000.😂
The 12V EV battery also costs $100.
@@Okurka.Yes, the EV battery of an Sinclair C5
@@RoderikvanReekumEVs also have a flooded 12V lead acid battery, or lithium ion in newer Teslas
$50,100 when you add in the 12V battery ;)
@@RoderikvanReekum Dommerik van Reekum.
I hate modern cars, as soon as the battery degrades a bit the voltage drops and ECUs don't like it and they won't start. I fit a new battery and it runs, I then fit the old battery to one of my classic cars with a distributor and points ignition and it works for another five years.
Yes.. ev cars are great.. Just wait till you have to exchange the batteries on them.
You EV will have the same issue rather sooner than later, only difference is the price. That battery costs pennies compared to the half-a-ton lithium landfill material in your EV.
/EDIT
Also "stinky", really? Have you ever drove any vehicle driven by 2 stroke engine? Now that is stinky.
Dead batteries don't show 12.6v, they would show less than 11.5. The high resistance is likely dirty or corroded connections
How would it drop to ~5v though?
@@jimmybrad156 The voltage measured during the test is meaningless because the readings were taken at the cables, not the battery posts. Any resistance between the post and clamp will display like this. Remove the battery cables, clean them and the post with a wire brush, reassemble
@@TrevorsBench looks like they're on the posts.
"it wasn't a range issue"....
Consider me triggered.
Oh believe me, if you'd taken the EV on a long road trip it definitely would have ruined your holiday.
Two car families can usually afford for one of them to be an EV if it can always be charged at home. For everything else they pretty well suck because there's never going to be enough fast charging infrastructure to make it a useful alternative.
Take the UK, their "no ICE" mandate has been pushed back to 2035 (was 2030) but to even make it possible they'd need to double their guaranteed (no wind, no solar) power generation, which means they'd have to commission three small 2 GW nuclear power stations... every ten years... for the next 150 years... on top of normal power station replacement. I kid you not. Do the figures folks. They could build 10 GW nuclear power stations, but no one has actually made one that big, even the 'muricans.
Unless Australia starts investing in safe thorium salt reactor power stations we'll be even worse off. There's a reason that China is building coal fired power stations hand over fist. They can be built in three or four years, Russian coal is cheap, and they don't care about carbon as long as they can say they are putting EVs on the road, even if they do have the odd lithium cobalt abomination burst into flame (possibly as many as seven a day, country wide), and they don't really care that much about rural areas either, even though they rely on them to feed the populations in the cities. Nor do they care that the carbon cost of manufacture for an EV is much higher, and that none of them will see their second battery, so rinse and repeat.
Nope, EVs aren't useful for anything except as a small town car, and that is going to be the case for a very long time. Luxury EVs are absurd.
You just need to plan. If you have a power point at the hotel destination then you can recharge overnight.
This trip would've been a perfect test for the EV.
EVs still have lead acid batteries. yet another win for the environmental fanatics NOT 😆
Lead acid is one of the most environmentally friendly battery technologies.
@@SinsBird how so?
@@echelonrank3927 Because they are recycled very easily and inexpensively and most of the old material can become new again after processing. More than half of lead it contains stays that way till the battery dies, so it needs to be melted down and that's all. Lead dioxide is cooked and becomes lead oxide to be used for the positive plate again. There are no strange reactions happening inside lead acid batteries that would make recycling difficult so at least 95% of used material is recovered from dead batteries.
@@SinsBird ok, makes sense, i didnt know u could reuse the powdery mess as well.
but with a kilo of new lead costing like a $1.50, i not sure u could recover the lead for less than the price of new lead.
ev is a scam
Dumb engineer owns a Nissan Dualis with a crappy CVT!... Now that's smart & ICE motors aren't stinky they'll be around for many decades to come so get use to it because EV's are crap & just not practical or they burn to the ground!
conepiece trannies have improved a lot.
Hondas seem notorious for abusing the battery eg. high parasitic loads / not charging it properly for the sake of being 'green'.
It's been an excellent car, never failed us in 13 years. Nothing wrong with the CVT at all. ICE cars literally smell, it's one of them ain differences you notice when owning both ICE and EV.
You're just the resident troll.
@@Okurka. Umm No!... I tell the truth & if you don't like it stiff sh*t!
@@jimmybrad156 Been a mechanic & electronics tech 40+yrs & I won't fix EV sh*tboxes.
Long live the ICE.