High Flow Tubeless Valve Shootout
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- Which tubeless valve has the highest flow? And just how much more airflow do these valves offer compared to your standard Presta valve? In today's video, we find out as Neil narrates an experiment that Miles and Justin took on at TAWS Bike Garage in Powell River, British Columbia...
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76 Projects High Flow No Clog Tubeless Valve Review - bikepacking.co...
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Music by Ben Weaver (benweaver.net)
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Thanks for the update. I’ve been singing the praises of my Fillmores since I installed them. Easiest tubeless setup I’ve ever done.
I have Fillmore valves. I like them. 1st set of tubless tires I ever did. No issues.
Tried and used the 76. The fact that 76 don't work with thread on pumps was the deal breaker for me. Loving my Fillmores!
Why is a valve that doesn’t work with thread on pumps even on this list? Plus, they’re less flow than the Fillmores and still clog like a Presta. What’s the advantage again?
They also don’t work with gas cannisters so you are cactus if you have to plug and re-inflate on the road. It is uber time.
You can get an adapter. I always carry one with presta in case I need to use a different kind of pump. No biggie.
hi do you konw if fillmore or 76 work with airshot?
Fillmore with muc-off sealant and tyre insert clog a LOT. I became to be afraid to not have how to get the air out, cause look like they can't be disassembled. And it's impossible to inject sealante with her. I'm using muc-off valves instead
Great video comparison! Love my Fillmore valves!
Good review. Fair and hit the important considerations for those debating which valve to use. My choice: Filmore. I have it on my gravel's tubeless. Like 'em.
Given the constraints of the rim hole diameter the tube of these valves are all going to be pretty much the same. The problem with this experiment is that it leaves the core in while testing flow. I don’t know why anyone would try to setup their tubeless setup with standard valves with the core in. I’d like to see the same test with the cores removed and I bet the results would be very different. Clogging is a rare occurrence, so this leaves me pretty ambivalent about the new “high flow” valves.
You’d be surprised…..the Fillmore flows higher than most Prestas valve bodies. The reason being is that most valve body inner diameters aren’t optimized for max flow. Those valve bodies that are maximized, the flow is pretty much the same as with the Fillmore because the Fillmore is valve body with a skinny pin going through it. Lot of stuff to go wrong with a Presta…..and don’t tell me you like jacking with that micro nut
@@Jocool0785 taking out the core is not an issue IMO.
I fully agree. The problem is not the valves as such is the restriction the rim hole size is the limiting factor of valve width.
You’re pretty fortunate that your valves never clog. I don’t have a wheel that isn’t clogged. Perhaps you have a sealant that doesn’t cause this issue?
@@luvinfunvan regular Stans. I’ve had maybe a couple of partially clogged valves spread across a dozen wheel sets over the years.
There is nothing better than lending! clogging of the valve can be removed by putting a little solid petroleum jelly inside the ovule of the valve that opens and closes. This prevents the sealant from sticking. Even to clean it, you can file the riveted top of the mini presta nut and disassemble it into 3 parts, clean it with thinner and apply Vaseline and you will never have a problem of it clogging again. The presta valve has no competition doing this, it has good flow, it does not clog and the tip is removable to add sealant.
I've got a pair of Fillmore valves. But I'm waiting for new tires and springtime before I bother installing them
I bought the Fillmore valves and tried to install a new pair of American Classic tires on my Spinergy rims. As it turns out I couldn't get them seated on the rims even though I have a Bontrager Flashdrive pump. Brought them to the bike shop and they couldn't either. So they resorted to standard Prestas and they seated no problem. The upshot of this: Prestas with the core removed still have the largest airway.
Not necessarily so. Most Presta valve bodies are not optimized for max flow. The Fillmore valve is pretty much a valve body with a pin running through it. So, the flow is similar and in most cases higher than a the flow through a Presta valve body. Plus, all the advantages like no clogging, don’t have to deal with the shitty Presta nut, can inject sealant right through it….list goes on and on. Prestas have sucked for the last 100 years and they are gonna continue to suck for the next 100 years
@@Jocool0785 wrong. I requested this data and the Fillmore to Presta valve with core removed is 7.1 / 9.6 = Filmore have 0.74 times the flow vs a presta with the core removed.
The Fillmore valve is very appealing but just way too expensive.
Been riding tubless since it’s onset over 20 years ago. NEVER liked the presta valve and never enjoyed having cheap crap on my bike.
Use a painted 1/2 inch layer of Slime on rim tape and tire bead, valve out, air up, put finger over hole, reinstall valve, wait 10 minutes with wheel horizontal, done. Air down or valve out or flat: there won’t be any problems setting up again.
Why? Bec. tape must be wet with something for bead to slide laterally from inner Chanel to outer tiny horizontal lip (examine TR rim internal shape closely). Slime is easiest for that, and then it’s tackiness on tire bead’s outer surface keeps air inside.
For non TR tire stuck on TR rim by mistake, use Vaseline on tape to get bead to slide to the rim wall.
These kinds of tips are more important for bikepacking field fixes than fancy core thingies.
With the reserve valves I can seat a tubeless tire pumping a floor pump with one hand every time. With regular valves I used to go to the gas station and use the compressor. For that alone it’s worth it.
Not sure if this clarifies the clogging that these high flow valves sell on. Personally I have multiple bikes setup tubeless. I haven't had any clogging issues so far after 2years. Key thing is to ride your bikes setup for tubeless.
Hey! This fun semi-serious test was just meant to demonstrate the air-flow between valves. However, I think it's safe to say better air-flow results in less clogging in most situations.
I wonder if the clogging happens more for less used bikes or spare wheels. Wonder if it makes a difference if you have the valves oriented up or down when in storage. Like you said, never had this issue myself.
@@Outsideville I bet the orientation of the valve makes a difference when sitting for a while.
@@milesarbour2210 understood. I think key is to ride your bike when tubeless. Letting them sit for extended periods of time is probably more likely when clogging occurs. I personally don't see a benefit to high flow valves unless maybe setting up is easier. But that really depends on pump setup. Maybe this is where a difference could be noted? If a traditional pump is used.
@@demoner1 They certainly make seating tires easier in my experience. The improved air-flow is noticeable with a standard floor pump-which is all I have.
The project 76 valve's physical dimension is so awkward that it is actually not very compatible with some presta adapters of pumps. The metal ring that holds the valve stem in place turns out to be a bit too wide that some adapter would have a hard time correctly seal the connection and pump air in. Fillmore's design is closer to the original presta valve structure that would make it much easier to find a compatible pump.
Would make sense for Fat Biking. Nothing worse than trying to lower psi with frozen fingers and a partially clogged valve.
has anyone tried the "new-ish" tubihead pumphead by topeak? It has a valve core remover integrated into the pumphead. 1) attach pumphead, 2) remove core (with pump still attached), 3) pump with high flow, 4) re-insert core, 5) detach pumphead. It makes high flow pumping/seating easier because the pump stays attached the whole time. to me, this seems a better solution to have the one pump that services all your wheels, than vice versa. I recently just got the pumphead upgrade kit to attach it to my Bell pump. worked for the one set of tires/rims i tried it on.
This was definitely the best option for me cause the old chuck was a duel-head that only pumped out the presta side when there was a valve core in the stem. Plus it was only ~$35 for the kit instead that or more for just a pair of valves.
Hmm will stick with drilling out alu rims and popping a tubeless schrader valve in. Now rims are wider there's no real benefit to the presta form factor.
I have my light bicycle carbon time drilled out for schrader ... I can't stand presta.
@@pedalhound You drilled it yourself or have asked light bicycle to do it for you when you bought it?
@@rydelatorre21 LB did it for me, I just made a special request when ordering.
@@pedalhound tyvm
Like the 76 Projects valves so much I'm in process of converting the fleet (helps the valves are okay value in the UK at £24.50 and 15% off with first order). Only downside is extra flow exacerbates tendency to lose a bit too much air if slow removing hose connection to valve post inflation [0]. That aside, nicely engineered, straighforward to install and easier tubeless setup works as advertised. Biggest surprise win is how massively more pleasant it makes trailside inflation with a small hand pump - would buy them just for that. Highly recommend.
[0] Possibly threaded head adaptors inherent tendency to be a bit slower to disconnect is reason for design not working with them.
The Fillmore Valves have even higher flow. So if you like the 76 you're going to love the Fillmore. Plus, the Fillmore valves have an anti clogging feature and the ability to work with thread-on pump. That's something you're not going to get with the 76 valves
Do these high flow valves have the ability to also be low flow? Low flow makes dialing in tire pressure much easier --- and while I only have to mount tires a few times a year, I adjust my tire pressure a few times a month.
(It would be nice to test a presta valve with the core out, as others have said.)
sure do! check the reserve fillmore video, you can release small amounts of air through the cap without even removing it!
Fillmore with muc-off sealant and tyre insert clog a LOT. I became to be afraid to not have how to get the air out, cause look like they can't be disassembled. And it's impossible to inject sealante with her
I bought a pair of the Fillmore valves and found they were too short for both of the wheelsets I wanted them for (which I have inserts in). I'll have to check out the 76
They have longer lengths available now. I wouldn't recommend the 76. They have less flow, they don't work with thread-on pumps, and they don't have the anti-clogging feature.
@@Jocool0785 Yup. See my more recent post about the 76. Not happy with them.
Could the different colour of the balloons have an effect on the elasticity of the balloons? We’re the balloons all filled with a specific amount of air rather than by visual size?
I would use the word experiment very loosely. 🤔🤔
Just got a set of Fillmores =max rim depth 28mm. My rims are 30mm as I didn't check before ordering, still going to see if they will work.
Trick that I’ve used in the past is you can usually trim down the rubber seal a little with a razor blade. Or swap it out with an O-ring
I am in the same situation and wondering how this worked out for you. The rims are 30mm, but the 50mm valve says it's good up to 28mm, and the 70mm valves says it good for a minimum 30mm, so there's no overlay. Seems like they should have just made them 55mm and 70mm.
I love my Fillmore's for adding air but they're pathetic for injecting sealant. Are any of these any better?
Fillmore with muc-off sealant and tyre insert clog a LOT. I became to be afraid to not have how to get the air out, cause look like they can't be disassembled. And it's impossible to inject sealante with her
A bit off topic, but I was wondering what kind of improvements you'd make first to a more budgeted stock HT like a GT Avalanche Elite or the Santa Cruz Chameleon?
Wheels and/or fork!
Testing Muc Off & Cris king
😊
I’ll wait for the trickledown variants
Now do the text with the normal valve core removed and lets see who wins... Plus those are technically free since they are already on your bike
The 76s are just NOT durable. I'd say stay away. On first install one of the valve cores shot right through and into the tire cavity. And not one particularly high pressure (~40 psi). I'm super careful since I've had tires blow off the rim and scare the neighbors. One valve dead. I ordered two sets, so I got the tires set up and ran them for about two month before one of the valve cores and the little brass nut broke right off while removing the pump head. Considering how hard the pump head has to be held against the stubby thin part of the valve to get any air in, I think this will be a common issue. I also have Fillmore valves and they work perfectly and seem more durable.
What about Milkit???
Milkits are worse flow than a Presta because it’s just a Presta core with a micro clog prone tube attached.
@@Jocool0785 yes but you can take the core out to seat the tire, and then the air flow is probably higher since you have no valve at all.
@@Torge78 it’s not because they have some goofy international duck bill valve that restricts the flow
crazy pricing for such things.
76 valves don’t work with gas cannisters. If you get a flat on the road, good luck.
They also don't work with thread-on pumps
Why are the two healthy young men wearing mask?
Are they going to riding bicycles to a bank robbery?
stupid post. not funny.
Did you try schrader valves?
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