Still driving my 03 Tundra V8 in 2020. Had it for 8 years and for the past 2 I've been using it to do tree work, and to tow a dual-axle trailer filled with logs. It's all stock, but I have Commercial T/A studded tires (Canadian winters+RWD). I always change the oil regularly (and filter+Lucas additive) and always use synthetic. It's still pretty young (290,000 Km), but I've only ever had t do regular maintenance. Brakes, O2 sensors, and one or two ignition coils. It's really a beautiful machine. I will never get tired of driving it. it's smooth as butter and it starts every time, even in -40 C.
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Braylen Johnny Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hey nathan I own a 2006 sequoia 4x4 limited with captain chairs from original owner and I can't believe how great it is. Currently has 190,000 bought it with 160k and so far nothing going wrong..keep up the great work
You don't need a new alternator...ever. Just replace the brush set every 200k: part # 27370-0F060. Spark plugs every 120k on the dot if using OEM denso iridium.
Bruh... it's not that much more work after you have the alternator out. It's a few bolts on the back to take off the shield and two more bolts to pull out the brush assembly. Push in the new brush carrier assembly, bolt it up, pull the grenade pin on it, and put the shield back on. Try it out. It's 15 mins more work to save $150. These denso alternators last over 400k with just brush replacements. I've got 2 with 400k on the original factory denso alternator.
Really now? So you think all those alternators that denso rebuilds everyday in their US factory have all new parts? New rotors, new windings, new diodes, bearings, and regulators? Hell no... They only replace what needs to be replaced which is almost always just the brushes and the bearings. I have rebuilt two of these so far and the only thing that seems to go bad is the brushes. The bearings are Koyo and will last well over 500k but I replaced them anyway since they're cheap. However, it's really unnecessary in most cases according to a local rebuilder that specializes in denso. Denso makes the best alternators in the industry according to the rebuilder I got the parts from. You can almost always get away with just replacing the brushes as long as the bearings aren't making noise.
I've had an '02 Sequoia Limited for almost 3 years now and my ownership exp. mirrors exactly what Nathan goes over here. Currently 305k miles. Use Syn/Blend every 5k miles. Changed all fluids when I bought it 50k miles ago, due for it again. Leather seats have cracks, no tears or holes. It's surprising how well these rigs hold up over time. Currently I have an evap leak at the fuel filler neck and alternator is getting kinda weak, so projects for the summer!
I have a 2003 Sequoia, 260k miles and a 2002 Tundra, 180k miles. Rusted chassis were replaced bumper-to-bumper under warranty on each vehicle, the Sequoia at about 11 years old, 160k miles, and the Tundra at about 14 years old, 150k miles. According to the dealer, parts and labor paid by Toyota was $14k for each vehicle. I'm not aware of another car manufacturer that stands behind their products like that.
Man 350000 on the original belt AWESOME! I got scared at 103000 after reading the required. Maintenance and since then I've seen nothing but higher mileage on the original belt☹️ kinda wish I had held out a little while 💪🏽
Big Son's Lawncare you really shouldn’t wait at ALL. The v8 engine with the timing belt is an interference engine. Meaning if the timing belt snaps bye bye engine. Either gotta put a new engine in it or rebuild the piss outta it
Just bought a 2006 tundra SR5 4.7 with 165k miles. Noticed similar seepage around the valve cover gaskets and rear main seal. Also a slight chirp from the serpentine belt when cold. Aside from that it’s like new. Really love these Toyotas!
One Hilux 471k Other Hilux 320k In Australia we don’t have snow so road salt doesn’t exist here, my 89 chassis look like it come out of the factory yesterday, My alternator stopped working at 200k rebuilt it for $100, and radiator needed a freshen up at 200k I was still on Toyota coolant! Love my Toyota’s
I just sold mine last year, with 330k miles & no idiot lights. The top cap on the radiator will crack, so I replaced that at 275k miles. Also, the valve covers are notorious for only being finger tight from factory. Just run a 10mm around them & cinch them back down. Slow leak fixed!
Good info I have a 2004 Tundra DC with 106000 just got it 3 months ago had the timing belt changed at dealer this time because wasn't sure if it was done. So far its been great I came from the 2002 v6 with 275000 absolutely love that truck. Thanks for sharing this info on what to look out for.
Those 4.7's are just amazing .. in whatever vehicle they are in. I can't wait to see how the 4.6 and 5.7 hold up over time. The newer engines should be even better.
I have 2012 Tundra with the 5.7 had it since new. Now has 262,000 miles. No engine work or other mechanical work done. Burns slight more then the 1/4 quart they it since new.
As owner of both 4.7 uz and 5.7 ur... both are great, 225k on 4.7 no major issue and 145k on 5.7 again no issues. Cosmetically, the 01 sequoia has needed a few things, though that can be attributed to 20 years of 4 kids
Lol I have a 02 tundra with 272k miles only thing replaced was timing chain, lower ball joints and tie rod ends. Other than that still running and driving strong 💪
06 tundra 4.0 V6 with currently 386,600 miles still running like an angel, on cold start and long drive, then warmed up I believe the fuel pump is going out, becomes tough to start and throttle not responding unless you turn it off and on a few times and gas it up some, lean codes and random misfire from it. Got new pump about to install with bed off
This just boosted my confidence as far as mileage goes on my truck lol. i have an 03 tundra with 180k miles and this helps me a lot with what to look for in the future and also thanks for pointing out that the throttle body might be the cause of a check engine light because my tundra has a check engine light right now and i can't figure out what the issue is
Hey Nathan picked up a 2006 tundra SR5 double cab 4x4, traded in my 2003 tacoma prerunner TRD off road with the rear lockers..I got a great deal for my tacoma and I've always wanted a 2006 tundra 4x4 double cab....
I got my 2005 tundra crew cab and honestly, doesn’t gave me any trouble at all, otherwise, she’s very reliable, strong and an awesome work horse, just need to keep up to date manufacturer maintenance schedule and that’s it!, you’ll have an amazing truck on 2020!!!...👍👍👍👍
I just bought an 05 tundra and the side view mirror wiggles like crazy I was worried it had been replaced with a cheap one. I’m going to try to adjust the screw!
My '02 SR5 4WD stock has over 325k. No leaks, creaks or issues. AC is crazy cold. I'm in 4wd every day. Only problem is rear gate latch (found a permanent fix) and LBJ's (check every year).
I bought a 2000 tundra. It’s great other than the mileage and the doors rattle to death. The previous owner slammed the foot on the seatbelt a bunch. I’m taking it to a body shop soon to see if it can be fixed. Hopefully they can make it happen. It drives me nuts.
I lived in PA and my 05 tundra had frame rust issues and they coated it instead of replacing it .Started to make strange creaking noises so I traded in at 153000 miles.Wish they would have put a new frame under it was the best truck I ever had,have a Tacoma now the 2nd and 3rd gen tundras are ugly.There was always a stack of new tundra frames sitting behind the dealership.
'02 Sequoia, 225K miles. Thanks for posting your videos Nathan. As a fellow wrencher and Toyota owner, I have found them to be very useful, and in fact subscribed to your channel right after watching a post of yours for the first time. Maybe you or others of your viewers could chime in with some input on a hesitation problem I'm having with my Sequoia. This will probably get kind of lengthy, and I don't blame anybody if you stop reading right here ;-). For those who are very bored, or may be having similar problems with their 1st gen,or just feel sorry for me, keep reading. Within the past 12K miles my Sequoia has developed a slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop. This is particularly annoying, not to say a little dangerous, when trying to make a left turn across city traffic. I have taken to giving myself a little extra space before executing such maneuvers. Here are things that I have done in the past 20K miles, some of which probably have nothing to do with the problem, and some of which may contribute to it. Maybe you can help me sort it out. I'll try to remember the sequence in which it all took place: 1. Got a code that led me to a throttle body problem. Replaced the throttle body with a brand new genuine Toyota/Lexus unit due to a faulty motor and plastic gear that broke inside the tb gearbox. 2. Replaced just about everything having to do with steering or front end suspension that rotates around something or inside of something, or that goes up and down, adding 2 inches of lift front and rear in the process. Got front end aligned. Installed factory wheels from a 2016 4Runner, along with BFG TKO tires. (Note: 50K miles ago the steering rack started leaving puddles under the right side on the driveway. save yourself a lot heartache, and cough up the ponies for a genuine Toyota part if this happens to you. It took me three tries with aftermarket trash before I learned this lesson. I'm a slow learner.) 3. Noticed the hesitation. 4. Removed the throttle body assembly and reinstalled, just to make sure I hadn't screwed something up. 5. Got a code for right forward o2 sensor. Traced it down to a plugged right side catalytic converter. The left side proved marginal, so I replace both cats along with all 4 o2 sensors. Code cleared, but hesitation persists. 6. Replaced spark plugs, which I do periodically anyway. Factory spec NGKs. Not an ounce of difference in driveability. 7. Rough idle developed over time. Suspected bad coil pack and waited for misfire code. Nothing happened, continued to idle rough. Decided 225K on original coil packs may have broken them down a little, so found a deal on some new Denso made in Japan coil packs on ebay and replaced all 8. Idle is Lexus smooth, along with dramatically better acceleration. Truck still hesitates. 7.5 While checking stuff like vacuum hoses and wire looms I noticed the radiator was making orangish-pinkish-reddish mud at the seam where the top plastic tank is mated to the core. I have been adding coolant in very slight amounts on occasion, wandering where it was going. I think I found it. Found deal on new Denso made in China radiator while finding deal on coil packs and ordered. Both orders arrived same day, so I replaced the radiator at the same time that I replaced the coil packs. I can't think of anything else other than normal type stuff that I've done -- oil and filter change every 6K miles, trans pan drain and fill every 6K miles, Chassis , driveline and suspension lube at oil change intervals, air filter check and change as needed. With new sparky stuff, new cats and o2 sensors, but no codes, I'm thinking fuel. Unless anybody who has bothered to read all this so far directs me elsewhere, my next step is to replace my fuel pressure test set that somebody borrowed with a new one from Harbor Freight, and start checking things like fp regulator and pulse damper. I may even send the injectors off to be rebuilt. From everything that you've read, am I on the right track? Is there something that I've done that I ought to go back to? Just one further piece of information, the normally poor gas mileage has become abysmal since I noticed this hesitation. From 13mpg around town to about 10. I know the larger diameter tires could have a little to do with it, but not that much. Sorry for the long winded comment.
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop Thanks for the reply Nathan, I actually did change the pcv valve a few thousand miles back when I replaced the valve cover gaskets. I also replaced the fuel filter. The injectors click away like an old Singer sewing machine, but after 225K of cheap gas I can't vouch for the spray pattern. I still haven't had time to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, but I think that's my next step. Do you know anything about that little screw on top of the fuel rail pulse damper?
I have a problem brakes leveling proportion valve. Brought a need one but didn’t fix the problem is still there. Did rear breaks , master cylinder . Any help will be appreciated thanks
Man I can watch videos on the 4.7 and nothing but good things I've had my 2000 tundra for 20 years without a single thing wrong with it and it just hit the 190,000 yesterday and runs like the day we got it also it keeps up to my boys single cab ram hemi 😂 can't wait till I turbo it
I own a 01’ tundra 4.7L and have mainly had trans go out at 85k, replaces axles and ball joints twice due to wear. Rear main seal leaks slightly and totally redid my drum brakes.. all and all a great truck, it has 150k and looking to drive it till it blows up..
Just check the basics, you'll have no problems. I have a 2002 Tree with over 223k and the only problems I have are with all my custom mods. OE stuff is all fine. Little seep from power steering rack starting but I offroad mine relatively hard
I have a 2001 Tundra with 196K that has an exhaust manifold leak, I was told that one of the causes could be from washing the engine on a regular basis which a number of people, like Scotty Kilmer, advise against. My local Toyota dealer, the place where I have my vehicles repaired, mentioned it would be around $1,500.00 to fix. I might be willing to live with the leak for a while.
Travis Thrower according to my research this is a design flaw, super common on these. You can buy after market manifold and pay someone to put it on or upgrade to headers.
2000 Tundra V8 2WD, 180k. Repairs: A little suspension work, driver door linkage, tailgate linkage, radiator (my neglect), two radiator hoses, fuel pump, one O2 sensor, one ignition coil, drive belt tensioner this year, harmonic balancer this year, replaced front struts this year. Original rear brakes and shocks, original a/c coolant, original fuel filter (I know I know). No fluid leaks, no burning oil.
amzn.to/2JxUAd4 these are the ones I have and seem to be the best 9003/h4 led's, make sure if you have daytime running lights that you unplug the grey plug next to the battery or it will eventually burn these out , I took the little chrome shields out of the headlight since that will cover the high beam side of the led, enjoy because these will be a 100% improvement over stock.
Sense you seem to know a lot about these I have a question about my 05 Tundra. Just had the timing belt changed and I noticed on a acceleration like in to the interstate the truck feels like the power is surging in and out. Any ideas.
Don't see how that's a problem. Just bring plenty of gas money! I've got 305k on mine and dependability has never stopped me. $3.00 a gal will, though.
I just bought an old 2001 Tundra Access Cab 4x4 v8 with 240k on it for occasional hauling stuff and fishing at the beach. Official list of things that are broken and need to be repaired or replaced: driver side power door lock, horn, both CV axles, both upper control arm bushing, both upper ball joints, missing sway bay links, leak in steering rack, brakes, master cylinder starting to fail, lift gate support straps. All in all, 5k worth of retail mechanic work to replace all that if I paid retail for work. I've replaced the lift gate straps and lubed the rear locking mechanisms. I'm considering rebuilding the entire front end with mevotech gear over just the upper control arm bushings and ball joints. Whichever way I go, will replace with polyurethane bushings. Then put in a replacement steering rack and both CV axles when I do the front end. I put a new master cylinder in today and will be installing a Power Stop drilled and slotted pair of rotors and pads as well as their new calipers to replace the old ones (notorious weak calipers on the 01-03 caused warped rotors) and full brake fluid flush. Oh yeah, then full fluid flush of front and rear differential, transfer case, new transmission filter and full flush, power steering pump and flush, and timing belt/water pump and idler pulley just to be safe. All in all, I'm looking at about 1800 in parts if I do all the labor. So considering that and the low price of the truck, I'll have a solid Toyota for another 200k+ usage.
Yep just catch up the maintenance , never seen the rack leak on one or the master cylinder fail, if the brakes are hard to stop, make sure you dont have a caliper stuck
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop I've had the steering rack leak on all of my toyotas when they hit 130-150k miles, and every one that I look under with similar mileage has at least weeping on the steering rack.
Own a 01 Sequoia Limited...if somebody asks what year it is and I say 01 they always say no way! just keep the body and paint nice and they age well. I do see lots of other older sequoias and tundras around me that look much worse...especially the dark colors, but the whites and tans seem to hold up well. Have had no major problems with the vehicle, rear bearings did squeal at 180k but fixed that. Rear door latch and lock actuator did go out but parts are cheap online. Easy fix. Engine wise, I do have some valve seep like yours but I try and keep the block clean and for the age it's just normal. no oil leaks. 2 interior door handles cracked but were a 5 min repair. Front brakes did warp from mountain driving everyday. 4WD system has always worked fine...you just to have to use it every once in a while or it gets stiff. Toyota recommends driving 10 miles a month in 4WD hi to keep it all lubed...wasn't a problem for me though because I do use mine regularly. No major frame rust or really any rust anywhere...but like I said I try and clean the engine and also the chassis a few times a year at least. All the other fluids and belts have been changed at the regular intervals.Ive had it for a while but it had two very good owners before me so I'm thankful they took care of it too... The key is normal maintenance...and after your video I feel confident she will make it to 300K hopeful
Just picked up a 02 motor runs like a sewing machine everything works but back hatch I got parts ordered and and few other things but the sequoia is the best suv hands down
I have a 01 Seqouia. The drive light on the dashboard burned out last year. Other than that, standard maintenance. Now that gas is cheap, I need to drive more.
Have you ever had a speedometer issue? Mine is misreading with only 190k on it. It is not due to tire height. My speed can read up to 20mph over my actual driving speed and will remain that speed even when parked. It "resets" if you remove the key and wait for the computer to go to sleep.
Great video Nathan. I have the 03 sequoia. The only issues i have had is the Fuel sending unit, brake switch and small EVAP leak from the charcoal canister. The coolant level is on the low side but goes to full when the engine is running, not sure if thats normal or not. Other than that, this is a great and reliable SUV to have.
We have had our 2005 limited tundra since new it now has 130,000 on it hate the VSC it keeps having to be recalibrated. If you own one and it's surging under a load or uphill around 110,000 and no codes its the fuel pump.
I have a P0174 code at 163k. Shop said no vacuum leaks, no maf issues. They said it’s the fuel pump. I’m going to replace it myself. The truck does seem to surge when trying to increase speed from time to time. I’m hoping that’s it. 15 years and no issues till now.
@@Mustang-mb7cg I would go ahead and do it with that many miles. Its really not that bad done ours myself. If you can wait check out rockauto its half the price of chain stores. Spectra premium was around $250 and is working great so far.
@@ejsvt2956 Thanks! Shop just called back and confirmed the pump is weak. Less than 21 psi when driving. Do I need a spanner wrench? I can find any pics of what the top of the pump looks like.
You put different tires on that are not the stock psi and you'll throw a code. Running Hankook AT2's at 51 psi and can't get the tire pressure sensor to turn off. Stock psi is 31/33psi.
Currently experiencing a roaring noise most noticeable at about 50 mph on my 05 sequoia limited with 245k miles, sounds like its coming from front drivers side... it seems to "go away" when steering left meaning weight is off that corner of the vehicle, I've rotated the tires, put new struts, new wheel bearings, new CV-axles on with no luck. Any suggestions anyone... someone told me it could be a rear wheel bearing and the noise is carrying forward but i find that hard to believe due to the fact that the noise is most prevalent when weight is on front left side of the vehicle... noise is driving me nuts and I'm worried I'm damaging my baby, SOS!!!
Andrew Marlinski I have the same issue. Roaring sound like a bearing but replaced bearings, CVS, input bearing into the front differential, rebuilt the front dif, had bad Spider gears, but after all this the noise is still there. Driving me crazy. Not sure what to do.
I had the same issue, it's the rear right wheel bearing. At first I couldn't believe it because the vibration and noise did feel like from the front driver side, but my dealership was very sure about it, and it did fix.
Roof rack, hi lift up there, lift kit and 33s with front and rear steel bumpers with winch and extra battery has all brought me down near 14 mpg. With the roof top tent on it I get UNDER 12
I have a 03 limited sequoia. It has 220k. Ive replaced cracked radiator, a/c condenser fan, rear hatch handle, pwr antenna is broke, pads and rotors... They seem to warp in less than a yr, dont know why. Blower motor needs to be replaced u have to tap on it from time to time. Runs very well. Probably due for some plugs.
You should never put LED or HID bulbs in reflective halogen headlamps. Not only are you annoying every person you cross paths with, you are actually loosing out on your own visibility as well ...Its not cool. Check out one of many articles discussing it. www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
reading all these comments, sounds like Toyotas are not that great. Ball Joint go out early, Alternator, O2, leaks on the valve box, interference engine, timing belt, have to disassemble the entire upper engine to get to the starter, rear bearing go out early, the VSC, Rust and sooooooo ON ! no thanks
Hey man just got an 01 tundra 4wd. Whenever I'm going around 50 mph and barely maintain speed while giving it slight throttle (almost starting to slow down) i hear a medium pitched steady pump whine sound. Its almost like the howling noise your car makes when going over bridges on the interstate but a slightly lower pitched. Any idea what it might be? As soon as i let go of the throttle or put the transmission in neutral it goes away. It also goes away when giving it more throttle opposed to just slight throttle
Not sure my symptoms were exactly the same but close....going around 60 mph and very gently giving it gas, it would develop a very slight whine. To me it almost sounded like a front air dam was redirecting air in a way to make this noise. But, when I let off the gas it would immediately stop making the noise, thus it seemed like a mechanical issue. In the end, I think it ended up being either my U-joints on the rear drive shaft, or the carrier bearing in between the 2 drive shafts. I had them both changed at the same time (when my carrier bearing started to squeak constantly) and now my 60+ mph symptoms went away.
@@ToyotaNutjob inside the wheel bearing there is steelball which is has more friction when its worn out, the thicker lube actually help to reduce friction on that ball bearings, and no, heavier gear differential oil actually no affected to gear life of diff. Actually toyota pickup diff also has large diameter as large as some 3/4 ton diesel truck toyota at asia which use 140w diff gear
I bought a 2000 tundra. It’s great other than the mileage and the doors rattle to death. The previous owner slammed the foot on the seatbelt a bunch. I’m taking it to a body shop soon to see if it can be fixed. Hopefully they can make it happen. It drives me nuts.
Still driving my 03 Tundra V8 in 2020. Had it for 8 years and for the past 2 I've been using it to do tree work, and to tow a dual-axle trailer filled with logs. It's all stock, but I have Commercial T/A studded tires (Canadian winters+RWD). I always change the oil regularly (and filter+Lucas additive) and always use synthetic. It's still pretty young (290,000 Km), but I've only ever had t do regular maintenance. Brakes, O2 sensors, and one or two ignition coils. It's really a beautiful machine. I will never get tired of driving it. it's smooth as butter and it starts every time, even in -40 C.
Spot on! I owned a 01 Sequoia for a while, was one of the best vehicles ive had, now i have my 05 Tundra which I plan to drive in the ground!
And you will my friend, believe me I got one long time ago and never got disappointed...👍👍👍👍
I guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Anderson Iker Instablaster =)
@Braylen Johnny Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Braylen Johnny It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
Hey nathan I own a 2006 sequoia 4x4 limited with captain chairs from original owner and I can't believe how great it is. Currently has 190,000 bought it with 160k and so far nothing going wrong..keep up the great work
You don't need a new alternator...ever. Just replace the brush set every 200k: part # 27370-0F060. Spark plugs every 120k on the dot if using OEM denso iridium.
Meh for the hassle of the brush set you might as well do the whole thing.
Theoretically, yes.
Practical? No.
Bruh... it's not that much more work after you have the alternator out. It's a few bolts on the back to take off the shield and two more bolts to pull out the brush assembly. Push in the new brush carrier assembly, bolt it up, pull the grenade pin on it, and put the shield back on. Try it out. It's 15 mins more work to save $150. These denso alternators last over 400k with just brush replacements. I've got 2 with 400k on the original factory denso alternator.
Really now? So you think all those alternators that denso rebuilds everyday in their US factory have all new parts? New rotors, new windings, new diodes, bearings, and regulators? Hell no... They only replace what needs to be replaced which is almost always just the brushes and the bearings. I have rebuilt two of these so far and the only thing that seems to go bad is the brushes. The bearings are Koyo and will last well over 500k but I replaced them anyway since they're cheap. However, it's really unnecessary in most cases according to a local rebuilder that specializes in denso. Denso makes the best alternators in the industry according to the rebuilder I got the parts from. You can almost always get away with just replacing the brushes as long as the bearings aren't making noise.
Oem plugs are copper.
I've had an '02 Sequoia Limited for almost 3 years now and my ownership exp. mirrors exactly what Nathan goes over here. Currently 305k miles. Use Syn/Blend every 5k miles. Changed all fluids when I bought it 50k miles ago, due for it again. Leather seats have cracks, no tears or holes. It's surprising how well these rigs hold up over time. Currently I have an evap leak at the fuel filler neck and alternator is getting kinda weak, so projects for the summer!
Love the sequoia! Most underrated platform
👍😎
I have an 02 tundra with 330k on it. Just bought another 06 with 125k on it. These tundras are crazy reliable. Love em!
I have a 2003 Sequoia, 260k miles and a 2002 Tundra, 180k miles. Rusted chassis were replaced bumper-to-bumper under warranty on each vehicle, the Sequoia at about 11 years old, 160k miles, and the Tundra at about 14 years old, 150k miles. According to the dealer, parts and labor paid by Toyota was $14k for each vehicle. I'm not aware of another car manufacturer that stands behind their products like that.
Done forget us v8 4Runner owners. Love the 4.7 and Toyota reliability.
Don't forget us GX470 owners too 🤣💪
👍😎
All Toyota’s are reliable not just the 4.7
my 2003 Sequoia is the BEST vehicle ive ever owned! 225,000 miles still runs like a top!!!
My 2001 tundra had 375000 on it when I sold it. The on thing that is really worth noting is the original timing belt snapped around 35000. Great truck
Never heard of that on any vehicle. Any contributing factor or was it just spontaneous?
Man 350000 on the original belt AWESOME! I got scared at 103000 after reading the required. Maintenance and since then I've seen nothing but higher mileage on the original belt☹️ kinda wish I had held out a little while 💪🏽
Big Son's Lawncare you really shouldn’t wait at ALL. The v8 engine with the timing belt is an interference engine. Meaning if the timing belt snaps bye bye engine. Either gotta put a new engine in it or rebuild the piss outta it
Wow just got a new timing belt and water pump a few months ago 2004 SR5
04 tundra crew cab. Runs like a charm. Regular maintainence stuff. 229,000 miles. Still running strong.
Just bought a 2006 tundra SR5 4.7 with 165k miles. Noticed similar seepage around the valve cover gaskets and rear main seal. Also a slight chirp from the serpentine belt when cold. Aside from that it’s like new. Really love these Toyotas!
One Hilux 471k
Other Hilux 320k
In Australia we don’t have snow so road salt doesn’t exist here, my 89 chassis look like it come out of the factory yesterday,
My alternator stopped working at 200k rebuilt it for $100, and radiator needed a freshen up at 200k I was still on Toyota coolant!
Love my Toyota’s
Great vid, thanks. What size tires are those on the Sequoia? They look to be mounted on the original wheels and it's an awesome look. Thank again!
I just sold mine last year, with 330k miles & no idiot lights.
The top cap on the radiator will crack, so I replaced that at 275k miles.
Also, the valve covers are notorious for only being finger tight from factory. Just run a 10mm around them & cinch them back down. Slow leak fixed!
Stymie Snerdly To bad I don’t have any 10mm’s😔
Good info I have a 2004 Tundra DC with 106000 just got it 3 months ago had the timing belt changed at dealer this time because wasn't sure if it was done. So far its been great I came from the 2002 v6 with 275000 absolutely love that truck. Thanks for sharing this info on what to look out for.
Big Son's Lawncare just did something similar myself went from a 03 access cab tundra v6 to a 06 DC v8 4wd with lower miles
Nice find
Rust on my 06 Sequoia is in the same spot - under the rear doors. Pretty hidden though.
Very helpful video. I own an 02 Sequoia. Love the channel!
Those 4.7's are just amazing .. in whatever vehicle they are in. I can't wait to see how the 4.6 and 5.7 hold up over time. The newer engines should be even better.
I have 2012 Tundra with the 5.7 had it since new. Now has 262,000 miles. No engine work or other mechanical work done. Burns slight more then the 1/4 quart they it since new.
As owner of both 4.7 uz and 5.7 ur... both are great, 225k on 4.7 no major issue and 145k on 5.7 again no issues. Cosmetically, the 01 sequoia has needed a few things, though that can be attributed to 20 years of 4 kids
Lol I have a 02 tundra with 272k miles only thing replaced was timing chain, lower ball joints and tie rod ends. Other than that still running and driving strong 💪
06 tundra 4.0 V6 with currently 386,600 miles still running like an angel, on cold start and long drive, then warmed up I believe the fuel pump is going out, becomes tough to start and throttle not responding unless you turn it off and on a few times and gas it up some, lean codes and random misfire from it. Got new pump about to install with bed off
Thinking of getting a 2004 Tundra - SR5 with the 4.7L V8
This just boosted my confidence as far as mileage goes on my truck lol. i have an 03 tundra with 180k miles and this helps me a lot with what to look for in the future and also thanks for pointing out that the throttle body might be the cause of a check engine light because my tundra has a check engine light right now and i can't figure out what the issue is
These engines are legendary, they are also in the Land Cruisers.
Did you have to do anything to the computer for that air filter? What air filter did you get? I have a 2000 Tundra with 379k miles... Love it!
Thanks. You're videos are very helpful. I'm looking at these and hoping to get one when I get back. Appreciate you doing these videos.
Good video and also I own 2003 toyota sequoia sr5 and still love the car.
Hey Nathan picked up a 2006 tundra SR5 double cab 4x4, traded in my 2003 tacoma prerunner TRD off road with the rear lockers..I got a great deal for my tacoma and I've always wanted a 2006 tundra 4x4 double cab....
Just grabbed an '04 Limited and I love it!
How many miles And for how much? I’m looking at one too
I got my 2005 tundra crew cab and honestly, doesn’t gave me any trouble at all, otherwise, she’s very reliable, strong and an awesome work horse, just need to keep up to date manufacturer maintenance schedule and that’s it!, you’ll have an amazing truck on 2020!!!...👍👍👍👍
I just bought an 05 tundra and the side view mirror wiggles like crazy I was worried it had been replaced with a cheap one. I’m going to try to adjust the screw!
My '02 SR5 4WD stock has over 325k. No leaks, creaks or issues. AC is crazy cold. I'm in 4wd every day. Only problem is rear gate latch (found a permanent fix) and LBJ's (check every year).
I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra 300k with one owner still running strong with no rust!
I bought a 2000 tundra. It’s great other than the mileage and the doors rattle to death. The previous owner slammed the foot on the seatbelt a bunch. I’m taking it to a body shop soon to see if it can be fixed. Hopefully they can make it happen. It drives me nuts.
I just replaced my rear axle seals and bearings last week. Left side went out and got the right replaced for preventative as well.
Would you replace the timing belt every 200,000 miles for the v6s tundras as well?
I lived in PA and my 05 tundra had frame rust issues and they coated it instead of replacing it .Started to make strange creaking noises so I traded in at 153000 miles.Wish they would have put a new frame under it was the best truck I ever had,have a Tacoma now the 2nd and 3rd gen tundras are ugly.There was always a stack of new tundra frames sitting behind the dealership.
Hey, what after market pads/rotors do you like for the 1st gen sequoias??
What do you grease on the back window? I’m looking at 1st gens right now!
'02 Sequoia, 225K miles. Thanks for posting your videos Nathan. As a fellow wrencher and Toyota owner, I have found them to be very useful, and in fact subscribed to your channel right after watching a post of yours for the first time. Maybe you or others of your viewers could chime in with some input on a hesitation problem I'm having with my Sequoia. This will probably get kind of lengthy, and I don't blame anybody if you stop reading right here ;-). For those who are very bored, or may be having similar problems with their 1st gen,or just feel sorry for me, keep reading.
Within the past 12K miles my Sequoia has developed a slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop. This is particularly annoying, not to say a little dangerous, when trying to make a left turn across city traffic. I have taken to giving myself a little extra space before executing such maneuvers. Here are things that I have done in the past 20K miles, some of which probably have nothing to do with the problem, and some of which may contribute to it. Maybe you can help me sort it out. I'll try to remember the sequence in which it all took place:
1. Got a code that led me to a throttle body problem. Replaced the throttle body with a brand new genuine Toyota/Lexus unit due to a faulty motor and plastic gear that broke inside the tb gearbox. 2. Replaced just about everything having to do with steering or front end suspension that rotates around something or inside of something, or that goes up and down, adding 2 inches of lift front and rear in the process. Got front end aligned. Installed factory wheels from a 2016 4Runner, along with BFG TKO tires. (Note: 50K miles ago the steering rack started leaving puddles under the right side on the driveway. save yourself a lot heartache, and cough up the ponies for a genuine Toyota part if this happens to you. It took me three tries with aftermarket trash before I learned this lesson. I'm a slow learner.)
3. Noticed the hesitation.
4. Removed the throttle body assembly and reinstalled, just to make sure I hadn't screwed something up.
5. Got a code for right forward o2 sensor. Traced it down to a plugged right side catalytic converter. The left side proved marginal, so I replace both cats along with all 4 o2 sensors. Code cleared, but hesitation persists.
6. Replaced spark plugs, which I do periodically anyway. Factory spec NGKs. Not an ounce of difference in driveability.
7. Rough idle developed over time. Suspected bad coil pack and waited for misfire code. Nothing happened, continued to idle rough. Decided 225K on original coil packs may have broken them down a little, so found a deal on some new Denso made in Japan coil packs on ebay and replaced all 8. Idle is Lexus smooth, along with dramatically better acceleration. Truck still hesitates.
7.5 While checking stuff like vacuum hoses and wire looms I noticed the radiator was making orangish-pinkish-reddish mud at the seam where the top plastic tank is mated to the core. I have been adding coolant in very slight amounts on occasion, wandering where it was going. I think I found it. Found deal on new Denso made in China radiator while finding deal on coil packs and ordered. Both orders arrived same day, so I replaced the radiator at the same time that I replaced the coil packs.
I can't think of anything else other than normal type stuff that I've done -- oil and filter change every 6K miles, trans pan drain and fill every 6K miles, Chassis , driveline and suspension lube at oil change intervals, air filter check and change as needed. With new sparky stuff, new cats and o2 sensors, but no codes, I'm thinking fuel. Unless anybody who has bothered to read all this so far directs me elsewhere, my next step is to replace my fuel pressure test set that somebody borrowed with a new one from Harbor Freight, and start checking things like fp regulator and pulse damper. I may even send the injectors off to be rebuilt. From everything that you've read, am I on the right track? Is there something that I've done that I ought to go back to? Just one further piece of information, the normally poor gas mileage has become abysmal since I noticed this hesitation. From 13mpg around town to about 10. I know the larger diameter tires could have a little to do with it, but not that much. Sorry for the long winded comment.
Change the pcv valve next, use a long screwdriver and listen to the injectors to make sure thy are all clicking right , but prob pcv or even fuel pump
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop Thanks for the reply Nathan, I actually did change the pcv valve a few thousand miles back when I replaced the valve cover gaskets. I also replaced the fuel filter. The injectors click away like an old Singer sewing machine, but after 225K of cheap gas I can't vouch for the spray pattern. I still haven't had time to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, but I think that's my next step. Do you know anything about that little screw on top of the fuel rail pulse damper?
I have a problem brakes leveling proportion valve. Brought a need one but didn’t fix the problem is still there. Did rear breaks , master cylinder . Any help will be appreciated thanks
Man I can watch videos on the 4.7 and nothing but good things I've had my 2000 tundra for 20 years without a single thing wrong with it and it just hit the 190,000 yesterday and runs like the day we got it also it keeps up to my boys single cab ram hemi 😂 can't wait till I turbo it
I own a 01’ tundra 4.7L and have mainly had trans go out at 85k, replaces axles and ball joints twice due to wear. Rear main seal leaks slightly and totally redid my drum brakes.. all and all a great truck, it has 150k and looking to drive it till it blows up..
I have a 2002 with 155k im planing on driving cross country its about 4300 miles round trip do you guys think thats a good idea
Just check the basics, you'll have no problems. I have a 2002 Tree with over 223k and the only problems I have are with all my custom mods. OE stuff is all fine. Little seep from power steering rack starting but I offroad mine relatively hard
Sounds good im goin from california to north carolina and back
No problem just check all fluids or potential issues
how long did the starter last. They are a nightmare to change.
Hi Nathan, have you had exhaust manifold leak on yours?
I seem to have on mine. I hear it but cant really find it. 2002 with 223k. I just live with it
I dont have the leak , the exhaust manifold cracks, I think it was a recall
I have a 2001 Tundra with 196K that has an exhaust manifold leak, I was told that one of the causes could be from washing the engine on a regular basis which a number of people, like Scotty Kilmer, advise against. My local Toyota dealer, the place where I have my vehicles repaired, mentioned it would be around $1,500.00 to fix. I might be willing to live with the leak for a while.
Travis Thrower according to my research this is a design flaw, super common on these. You can buy after market manifold and pay someone to put it on or upgrade to headers.
@@1142VS don't trust everything Scotty Kilmer says. He is mostly an idiot.
2000 Tundra V8 2WD, 180k. Repairs: A little suspension work, driver door linkage, tailgate linkage, radiator (my neglect), two radiator hoses, fuel pump, one O2 sensor, one ignition coil, drive belt tensioner this year, harmonic balancer this year, replaced front struts this year. Original rear brakes and shocks, original a/c coolant, original fuel filter (I know I know). No fluid leaks, no burning oil.
Wow💪🏽
I have a 06 Tundra and I'm on my third alternator. Truck has 226k on it
Can you share what kind of LED headlights you replaced the originals with?
amzn.to/2JxUAd4 these are the ones I have and seem to be the best 9003/h4 led's, make sure if you have daytime running lights that you unplug the grey plug next to the battery or it will eventually burn these out , I took the little chrome shields out of the headlight since that will cover the high beam side of the led, enjoy because these will be a 100% improvement over stock.
00 Tundra. 168K. Frame replaced in '16. Broken leaf springs. Had to replace both side cats.
Sense you seem to know a lot about these I have a question about my 05 Tundra. Just had the timing belt changed and I noticed on a acceleration like in to the interstate the truck feels like the power is surging in and out. Any ideas.
Clean the throttle body possibly
Mines got 197k is it a bad idea to drive from south Texas to plainview to Oklahoma to Louisiana back to south Texas with normal breaks in between?
Don't see how that's a problem. Just bring plenty of gas money! I've got 305k on mine and dependability has never stopped me. $3.00 a gal will, though.
David Kaminski lol alright that gives me more faith in it. Gas Isn’t an issue in my city thought only $1.30 a gallon at the moment
I have a 03' Tundra with 51k miles. What should I do about timing belt? Everything is original. Runs perfect.
I have a 2002. 342,000 miles. I do a timing belt every 90,000 miles.
Every 200k on the toyotas , some guys get 500k out of the original timing belt
lol. I've got an 05 DC 4x4 with 36k on it and I worry about the tbelt all the time.....
@@sail235aeh Toyota recommends changing timing belt everything 90000 miles. That's when I do mine, and I have 342000 on mine. No problems yet.
@@jeffjustus4969 yeah I was more worried about the 15 years old factor. Don't think I'm going to sweat it for a while. Thanks for the reassurance !
I just bought an old 2001 Tundra Access Cab 4x4 v8 with 240k on it for occasional hauling stuff and fishing at the beach. Official list of things that are broken and need to be repaired or replaced: driver side power door lock, horn, both CV axles, both upper control arm bushing, both upper ball joints, missing sway bay links, leak in steering rack, brakes, master cylinder starting to fail, lift gate support straps. All in all, 5k worth of retail mechanic work to replace all that if I paid retail for work. I've replaced the lift gate straps and lubed the rear locking mechanisms. I'm considering rebuilding the entire front end with mevotech gear over just the upper control arm bushings and ball joints. Whichever way I go, will replace with polyurethane bushings. Then put in a replacement steering rack and both CV axles when I do the front end. I put a new master cylinder in today and will be installing a Power Stop drilled and slotted pair of rotors and pads as well as their new calipers to replace the old ones (notorious weak calipers on the 01-03 caused warped rotors) and full brake fluid flush. Oh yeah, then full fluid flush of front and rear differential, transfer case, new transmission filter and full flush, power steering pump and flush, and timing belt/water pump and idler pulley just to be safe. All in all, I'm looking at about 1800 in parts if I do all the labor. So considering that and the low price of the truck, I'll have a solid Toyota for another 200k+ usage.
Yep just catch up the maintenance , never seen the rack leak on one or the master cylinder fail, if the brakes are hard to stop, make sure you dont have a caliper stuck
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop I've had the steering rack leak on all of my toyotas when they hit 130-150k miles, and every one that I look under with similar mileage has at least weeping on the steering rack.
Own a 01 Sequoia Limited...if somebody asks what year it is and I say 01 they always say no way! just keep the body and paint nice and they age well. I do see lots of other older sequoias and tundras around me that look much worse...especially the dark colors, but the whites and tans seem to hold up well.
Have had no major problems with the vehicle, rear bearings did squeal at 180k but fixed that.
Rear door latch and lock actuator did go out but parts are cheap online. Easy fix.
Engine wise, I do have some valve seep like yours but I try and keep the block clean and for the age it's just normal. no oil leaks.
2 interior door handles cracked but were a 5 min repair. Front brakes did warp from mountain driving everyday.
4WD system has always worked fine...you just to have to use it every once in a while or it gets stiff. Toyota recommends driving 10 miles a month in 4WD hi to keep it all lubed...wasn't a problem for me though because I do use mine regularly.
No major frame rust or really any rust anywhere...but like I said I try and clean the engine and also the chassis a few times a year at least.
All the other fluids and belts have been changed at the regular intervals.Ive had it for a while but it had two very good owners before me so I'm thankful they took care of it too... The key is normal maintenance...and after your video I feel confident she will make it to 300K hopeful
Just picked up a 02 motor runs like a sewing machine everything works but back hatch I got parts ordered and and few other things but the sequoia is the best suv hands down
I have a 01 Seqouia. The drive light on the dashboard burned out last year. Other than that, standard maintenance. Now that gas is cheap, I need to drive more.
Are the Sequoia's all time 4 wheel drive or is it like the tundra where you can actually put it in 2wd?
You can put them in 2wd
thanks for your channel bro
Have you ever had a speedometer issue? Mine is misreading with only 190k on it. It is not due to tire height. My speed can read up to 20mph over my actual driving speed and will remain that speed even when parked. It "resets" if you remove the key and wait for the computer to go to sleep.
Never had that issue, someone has prob changed something with the speedo sensor
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop I'll take a look at it then. I thought I would need a new cluster.
I have a 2001 Toyota Tundra, zero issues at all she just hit 517,000. Made a video on my truck it’s on my channel check it out.
Fuel pump took a dump this weekend, power steering air valve went out, 04 DC tundra.
How many miles do you have on it?
Great video Nathan. I have the 03 sequoia. The only issues i have had is the Fuel sending unit, brake switch and small EVAP leak from the charcoal canister. The coolant level is on the low side but goes to full when the engine is running, not sure if thats normal or not. Other than that, this is a great and reliable SUV to have.
We have had our 2005 limited tundra since new it now has 130,000 on it hate the VSC it keeps having to be recalibrated. If you own one and it's surging under a load or uphill around 110,000 and no codes its the fuel pump.
Mine failed at 399,000 , I have bee running E85 for 200k in it with no issues, reset check engine light on cold start and that's all
I have a P0174 code at 163k. Shop said no vacuum leaks, no maf issues. They said it’s the fuel pump. I’m going to replace it myself. The truck does seem to surge when trying to increase speed from time to time. I’m hoping that’s it. 15 years and no issues till now.
@@Mustang-mb7cg I would go ahead and do it with that many miles. Its really not that bad done ours myself. If you can wait check out rockauto its half the price of chain stores. Spectra premium was around $250 and is working great so far.
@@ejsvt2956 Thanks! Shop just called back and confirmed the pump is weak. Less than 21 psi when driving. Do I need a spanner wrench? I can find any pics of what the top of the pump looks like.
@@Mustang-mb7cg Its a plastic ring. I used an old serpentine belt and vise grips.
Nice video but I dont know where you get all those prices
Because the real price is way higher
I have a 05 tundra and the only problem I have is paying for gas lol it’s a gas chugger
But reliable compare to a new tacoma who I hear they have transmission issues automatic only manual good
You put different tires on that are not the stock psi and you'll throw a code. Running Hankook AT2's at 51 psi and can't get the tire pressure sensor to turn off. Stock psi is 31/33psi.
Had to drive home on a smaller spare before, the abs was freaking out lol
Sorry, did you link the headlights?
what aftermarket fan did you use on the front?
Currently experiencing a roaring noise most noticeable at about 50 mph on my 05 sequoia limited with 245k miles, sounds like its coming from front drivers side... it seems to "go away" when steering left meaning weight is off that corner of the vehicle, I've rotated the tires, put new struts, new wheel bearings, new CV-axles on with no luck. Any suggestions anyone... someone told me it could be a rear wheel bearing and the noise is carrying forward but i find that hard to believe due to the fact that the noise is most prevalent when weight is on front left side of the vehicle... noise is driving me nuts and I'm worried I'm damaging my baby, SOS!!!
Well its not uncommon for those noises to be in the opposite spot than it sounds like, might as well replace the rear ones
Andrew Marlinski I have the same issue. Roaring sound like a bearing but replaced bearings, CVS, input bearing into the front differential, rebuilt the front dif, had bad Spider gears, but after all this the noise is still there. Driving me crazy. Not sure what to do.
I had the same issue, it's the rear right wheel bearing. At first I couldn't believe it because the vibration and noise did feel like from the front driver side, but my dealership was very sure about it, and it did fix.
Seemingly indestructible. I think when you know the transmission is made to last you can invest in repairing the car.
Still looking for a 05 or 06 limited
Can you do this on the 1st gen
I would say the worst thing is the gas mileage
TheeJoeyLee totally true! Idle and watch the average mpg start dropping lol
@@YK-ce3dk had a buddy with a 97 silverado v8 4x4 5 speed manual..got 25 mpg one day of running around.
Roof rack, hi lift up there, lift kit and 33s with front and rear steel bumpers with winch and extra battery has all brought me down near 14 mpg. With the roof top tent on it I get UNDER 12
They are 16 on highway and 14 in town, just like very other truck
Best year tundra how much
Biggest problem I've had in my 2006 tundra sr5 is a mouse...
Yep I have them here to
Just bought a 2006
So you only put 12,000 to 13,000 miles on it since your 2017 video
I have a 03 limited sequoia. It has 220k. Ive replaced cracked radiator, a/c condenser fan, rear hatch handle, pwr antenna is broke, pads and rotors... They seem to warp in less than a yr, dont know why. Blower motor needs to be replaced u have to tap on it from time to time. Runs very well. Probably due for some plugs.
I did the prime choice drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads , that company is in Canada, super cheap non Chinese parts
@@NathansPorscheWorkshop i had drilled and slotted off of rock auto and ceramic pads but they warped too
Dude...you literally listed my truck lmao same little problems but I fixed just about everything still running strong (02 Tundra v6)
Please do yourself a favor and get a v8
Holy shit. Only 2gs for a older first gen. 01 to 03 will be around 10g and 03 to 07 will be around 10 to 15 in the pnw.
Timing belt (Water pump) @ 90,000 miles.........save up your pennies
Sounds like a lot of stuff to replace!
Awesome
Are these similar to landcruisers in any way?
Pennychaser1
Same engine.
BEST LED HEADLIGHT BULBS FOR TUNDRA /SEQUOIA amzn.to/2JxUAd4
up north frame rust is huge
Rust is huge on everything up there , especially new chevys
I wish i shouldve kept mine....
Same for my 4Runner.
If I had the money I'd buy a Toyota but I don't so I can only buy Fords they have good vehicles for how cheap they are
You should never put LED or HID bulbs in reflective halogen headlamps. Not only are you annoying every person you cross paths with, you are actually loosing out on your own visibility as well ...Its not cool. Check out one of many articles discussing it.
www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-leds-should-not-be-run-in-halogen-reflectors.454371/
reading all these comments, sounds like Toyotas are not that great. Ball Joint go out early, Alternator, O2, leaks on the valve box, interference engine, timing belt, have to disassemble the entire upper engine to get to the starter, rear bearing go out early, the VSC, Rust and sooooooo ON ! no thanks
motokev PPFFTT
$25 headlights? Where.
Link in the description for my amazon store
RUST RUST RUST
Toyota is Japanese. Not Chinese
Ugly as hell, but it's the best truck ever built!!
Hey man just got an 01 tundra 4wd. Whenever I'm going around 50 mph and barely maintain speed while giving it slight throttle (almost starting to slow down) i hear a medium pitched steady pump whine sound. Its almost like the howling noise your car makes when going over bridges on the interstate but a slightly lower pitched. Any idea what it might be? As soon as i let go of the throttle or put the transmission in neutral it goes away. It also goes away when giving it more throttle opposed to just slight throttle
Not sure my symptoms were exactly the same but close....going around 60 mph and very gently giving it gas, it would develop a very slight whine. To me it almost sounded like a front air dam was redirecting air in a way to make this noise. But, when I let off the gas it would immediately stop making the noise, thus it seemed like a mechanical issue. In the end, I think it ended up being either my U-joints on the rear drive shaft, or the carrier bearing in between the 2 drive shafts. I had them both changed at the same time (when my carrier bearing started to squeak constantly) and now my 60+ mph symptoms went away.
My rear diff pinion just started whinning. Smh :(. Itll last a lot longer tho I'm good
maybe just rear bearing diff, if u want to reduce sound give lucas or heavy duty gear oil sae 140 w
@@trianggaindralukmana2184 that wouldnt cause damage by running heavier?
@@ToyotaNutjob inside the wheel bearing there is steelball which is has more friction when its worn out, the thicker lube actually help to reduce friction on that ball bearings, and no, heavier gear differential oil actually no affected to gear life of diff. Actually toyota pickup diff also has large diameter as large as some 3/4 ton diesel truck toyota at asia which use 140w diff gear
I bought a 2000 tundra. It’s great other than the mileage and the doors rattle to death. The previous owner slammed the foot on the seatbelt a bunch. I’m taking it to a body shop soon to see if it can be fixed. Hopefully they can make it happen. It drives me nuts.