Making a round frame with fingerjoint cutter
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- This video shows how I made a round frame using a fingerjoint cutter on the shaper. A design mistake was made in calculating segment lengths and I show how I recovered from it.
Great video. Now that you have had time using the airclamps, what do you like/dislike about them.
I have had these clamps installed for 5 years on the slider and 4 years on the shaper (same set, just move to different machine as necessary). I love everything about them, they are a top tier design and build. They are unique among all the air clamps I have seen in that you can adjust the direction of force due to the eccentric adjustment at the mounting point of the air cylinder. They are also the best packaged purchase I have ever made. There is nothing to dislike although, I would prefer the round knob on both clamp bases in lieu of the kip lever on one but that is just personal preference.
All things considered, Mac did an outstanding job with these clamps and I would classify it among the top 5 game changer purchases I have ever made. Those being in no particular order: Sliding Tablesaw, Domino, Aigner Fence Plates, Mac's Airtight Clamps, and the Fritz & Franz jig (not an off the shelf purchase).
Steve
@@extremewoodworker Thanks for the insight, really appreciate it.
Steve, Excellent work! Showing people how to recover from challenges and that it is part of woodworking is really helpful to people. examples of problem solving is a benefit to everyone that watches! I need to start playing with my finger joint cutter to keep the knowledge in my head for the Alpine workshop.
Thanks PK. Perhaps I should start a new channel called "Mistakes-a-Plenty". In 43 years of woodworking, it is a rare project where no mistakes are made (at least none that I am aware of). I would like to find some affordable clamps like Joe and Steve used for the glue-up of the arch we made (tongue and groove). Steve
Yuz gotta love Peter and how he works. Love that shaper and sliding saw. Wow! And he knows how to use it. Thanks kind Sir; for sharing your talents with us.
Thank you Pat.
Excellent demonstration on how to make a circular frame
Thank you for the kind words. Steve
Hi Steve, GREAT to see you (and your imagination) publishing again - VERY nice piece of work... Fooling with my (Hammer) CNC to figure out how to integrate into my workflow and it is a bit overwhelming on the software side - what are you using for design? Best, Mike
Hi Mike. I use Vectric VCarve Pro and it is easy to use. They have several different versions at different price points depending on your needs. You can download a trial version and do everything output GCode files. Vectric has a lot of on-line tutorials plus Mark Lindsey and Garrett Fromme have videos on it as well. Steve
Nice recover! Is that a very fine cutter or a probe at 1:31? How did you secure the frame for cutting the external diameter? Thanks for the video. Cheers, David.
Thanks David. The bit at 11:31 is a 1/16" tapered ball nose used to cut the profile on the face. I used an auxiliary spoilboard for the double sided machining and used dowels for alignment and 4 screws from the backside to secure. Steve
Steve: I have the same shaper and wondering what is the purpose behind the aluminum extrusion that your material is resting on while tenoning ? I just clamp right to the sliding table surface. Thank you,
Gary
Gary, It is the tenoning plate and is intended to reduce the movement of the wood near the cutter when using the sliding table for processes. It is a great add on and inexpensive in the world of Felder.
Gary, PK is correct but I will add that it allows you to clamp small pieces. My workpieces in this video are 157mm or about 6" long. There is no way to clamp pieces this short to the sliding table without the use of the tenoning table. Steve
Really nice! Didn’t understand what looked like a surfacing pass with a really long skinny cutter? Also, any tips on setting height on the finger cutters?
Hi Ron. It was a molding path being cut by a 1/16" tapered ball nose bit and had two small beads at the ID and OD along with a shallow sweeping bead between them.
On adjusting the height, I set it up initially by eye made a test joint and then measured the offset between the two faces. Divide that measurement by two and then adjusted the spindle height in the direction required. With that, I nailed it on one try. Steve
@@extremewoodworker ahh - figured it must be something like that...., just couldn't see the detail. Set up method sounds great. Unfortunately I'm running a KF700 (shaper in the saw) with the digital read out. It uses a jog button and minimum 0.005 increments which are hard to hit. I might try shims next time. Thanks for the great content!
@@rbyt2010 Hi Ron, the resolution on your powerdrive display is the same as mine. I can only adjust in 0.1mm increments which is about 0.004". Mine were not perfect but easily sanded flush. Steve
Using huge and expensive equipment to make a small thing. In Russia we say the mountain gave birth to a mouse
I purchase equipment and tooling that covers the entire spectrum of projects I build from small to large. In the US we say that mighty oaks grow from small acorns.
That Russian comment is a hoot - in America we say don’t mess with Ukraine or you’ll get your ass kicked