Thank you so much for this video. I have cleaned and replaced my throttle body, map, and clutch sensor a couple times to fix this issue. Even all of my spark plugs and direct ignition coils. This year it still had the random misfires and rumbles after all the changes. I finally thought maybe it was the pvc. It was acting just like a 3800 series 2 v6. First start of the day works great. After warm up acts horrible but darn sure not a bad gasket. So finally looked up where the pvc is on the 4200 and found your video. After following your instructions. Warmed up the engine, filled tube, put tube back on and let sit for 30min, wamred up engine again and repeat. After doing this four times it seems to have cleared out the pvc system and now works great through the day. So thank you so much for this video. I was losing my mind until i remembered the pvc sytem and found your video.
Had my TrailBlazer at least 10 times in the shop because of a P0014. I noticed the chocolate mayonnaise in my airbox. I regularly clean the nasty throttle body and change the oil every 3 to 4 months to avoid the P0014 popping up. No matter what the shop did, or I did fixed the problem. Just picked up a new Variable Valve Timing Solenoid today and get the oil change done tomorrow. I will try your cleaning advice as well since I am very confident that's causing the problem. I really appreciate this fantastic video! Will keep you updated.
It has been a month since the oil change and VVT Solenoid replacement. I used a Liqui Moly engine flush before the oil change. When I removed the hose to poor Sea Foam in it, I noticed the hose was porous so I replaced it entirely (what a nightmare to get off). In addition, I cleaned the throttle body and used the Sea Foam Top Engine cleaner & lube. First of all, what a difference in power. The engine runs like new and second of all, no more P0014 popping up when driving long distances. I assume it was the hose causing a vacuum leak since the VVT Solenoid has been replaced twice in the last 3 years, but don't know for sure. I am disappointed that none of the mechanics could figure this out. Anyway, thank you so much for the video.
By far the best video about the subject. People seem to love to "bypass" the standard system because they have no clue how it works. Ill have to clean out my system because my intake resonator gets oil in it from time to time.
This solved my "cold start rough idle" issue! I used Gumout C&C cleaner spray. Also, I added a 90° elbow to the 1/2 ID pcv house from the driver engine because even a new house would crease in that tight spot.
Chevy's 2.2l had a weird setup as well. I had a gmc sonoma with a very odd amount of vacuum through the crankcase breather hose. I took the intake completely off looking for the valve, GM had figured up a way to build the orifice into the intake gasket. With time I guess heat and oil degraded the gasket and broke a big hole into the gasket where the orifice is.
OK Joe - I did it!! The hose was NOT baked on or brittle!! I used the Pittsburgh hose plier to take off the bottom end going into the crankcase. I forgot to turn the car off so immediately air shot OUT of the "port" - that's good because it means it was NOT clogged!! haha. Since i had the hose off then I poured some B12 in there - more than a capful - probably a couple cap fulls. Then I revved the engine a bit in idle to try burn it off - so the engine wouldn't hydrolock. Then I turned off the engine - put the hose back on and drove around for about 10 minutes. I had a "Service Engine Light" but since i just bought the Innova 3100 - then I cleared out the "idling at high speed" P code. Oh yeah - the hose stayed on - I reused the Old HOse!! Since it was in good condition. So what do you say to that report? You still think my PVC Hose port needs more cleaning? hahaha. You let me know. Is your goal to clean out the crankcase side of it more so than the "six ports" your referred to in the Intake Manifold? I realize those six ports are gonna be dirty. I'm just gonna use MMO from now on - I'll just had a quart of MMO added to my engine oil when I get an oil change and run it for the whole OTC. What do you think of that idea? Too long for MMO to be in the engine? I don't think it's a problem. Let me know if you think that's a problem in your view. haha. thanks again for the help - that was a fun adventure. P. s. I put the Boroscope down the hole and I didn't see anything - and so then I put my bicycle pump against the hole but I couldn't generate much PSI. I don't have any air pressure hose or forced air dealy. So like I said - air shot OUT of the port with the engine on - so it's not clogged up.
I love MMO --- but I tend to not put it into "metered-flow" style lubrication systems like our 4.2s. In a "pressure-type" oil flow system, the higher the oil pressure -- the better (up to a point). BUT --> our engines are lubricated by metered oilflow, not pressure. That's why GM created the strawman oil pressure gauge on the dash. ....... it tells of what a "normal" engine would have for oil pressure IF it was a pressure-lubricated engine. Owners would freak out if they saw 12lbs of oil pressure on the gauge - right? But that's what it is! About MMO --- I use it - a lot of it really - primarily in my air tools air inlet for lubrication --- and I love the aroma of it too! I also like to use it when I'm tapping threads into aluminum --- kerosene is better, but harder to find where I live. So ---> it's Marvel Mystery Oil to the rescue - but not in our engines.
The fact this isn’t viewed more amazes me. I’m younger and This is AMAZING information. Owned my trailblazer for 8 years, never knew about this. Started having issues with oil coming out of that bypass tube. I wish you had more videos pertaining to this truck. I could learn so much from you!
It is a niche-video that only applies to people who actually own these vehicles. As such, and that many people start changing the air filters, rotating the tires and changing the taillight bulbs to fix oil leaks at the valve cover and condensate buildup in the crankcase. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the info, great video. I just got one of these and I'm working out the kinks. My throttle body was disgusting and when I was changing the plugs I noticed a bit of oil so I did the valve cover gasket and plug seals. During that nightmare I noticed that the intake was totally filled with gunk, even the ports were caked with at least a quarter inch of goo. Did my best to clean that all out and that led me to the Trailvoy forum where I came across this discussion and this video. It's running much better now but I still get a bit of slight bogging for a second when I come to a stop. The idle isn't quite as smooth as I would expect from a straight 6 either. I'm going to see if the CV side hose is clogged. Maybe the entire intake manifold being clogged caused the same thing as you described. Any more tips for cleaning that out? I think it must be worth a shot, but I do feel sketchy dumping cleaners down there into the crank. Should I just remove that hose and clean it or is it probably clogged deep inside the passages? Any specific cleaners I need for this? Can I just safely dump it in there and pump it back out with a hand pump? Any details would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the 50 questions but you seems like a trustworthy source and a helpful person and this info doesn't seem easy to come by. Again, thank you sir. o7
The liquid is going into the intake and won't contaminate the oil in the engine. It's a totally different system. Persistence is the answer and it will get better and better with every application. You've gotta keep at it until you think it's really clean - evidenced by the vacuum at the oil filer when you put your hand over it while the engine's running.
PS .... I also used an air nozzle with a long tube and pushed it down into the hose and hit the trigger a few times ... not really letting the pressure get too high ... a touchy-feely thing that uses a 6th sense to know when enough is enough and when to stop.
Hey Joe. Thanks for the great video. Listen, My 2009 trailblazer makes loud exhaust noises on passenger side of engine which go away to a certain degree after the car warms up. I was told by a mechanic that these vehicles are notorious for developing exhaust manifold cracks. Can that be right? I have a feeling that it could be the expansion "donut" seal where the exhaust manifold ties to the rest of the exhaust system. What do you think?
Unfortunately the exhaust manifold has issues with breaking bolts and cracking. Once you hear noise from there it needs an intervention. The donut doesn't seem to be a big problem though.
Hello I have a 07 trailblazer 4.2 rough idle p0300 code. I've replced coils plugs,map maf,cvt valve. It has a rough idle only when it's warm. I can pull that hose off the manifold and have great vacuum soon as I plug that hose back in rough idle. I have that white chocolate milk on the top of my oil cap but not on my dipstick or inside the box going to the throttle body. Any ideas
Thank-you for asking this question --- The emulsion (a mixture of oil and water) under the OIL cap has to be addressed first. With the engine running, reach under the sound chamber and flick the "s-hose" off the nipple that comes up from the valve cover. Check for vacuum at that nipple, not the sound chamber side of the s-hose.
@SurferJoe46 thanks for getting back to me. So I have no vacuum at that s pipe. After checking it I put my finger over the nipple, and I do get a small whistle when I pull my finger off it
@@SurferJoe46 ok because I have no suction in the dipstick an no milkshake in the filler cap. But the truck only smokes if idle for a short time like a drive thru
@@bikerboyvideos6147 describe the smoke for me 1) fluffy white smoke that disappears in a few moments or gently drifts away .......................... 2) heavy kinda-blue-ish smoke that smells sweet and lingers for a long time and will blow out a bigger cloud if you rev the engine 3) an acrid - eye-watering smoke that can make you cough and hurts you lungs -- the smell is nasty and sharp. Take your pick 1 or 2 or 3.
@@bikerboyvideos6147 I'm out on a limb here as I am not 100% sure of the valve stem sealing type in our engines - yet. Oil an leak into the combustion chamber(s) on an idling engine, going down through the valve guides - and then when you hit the throttle, it willl smoke somewhat heavily for a few moments. How's the oil consumption? BTW ---> I do not suspect an oil over filled situation here.
Ok. I'm a newbie to car stuff I admit. How do you take that L hose off? Do u just pull the top part of it down until it slides off that rod thing? I'm sure I'm looking at the correct tube, I just don't know how to unhook it so I can pour stuff in..
I tend to not bother with taking the hose off the plastic nipple and instead remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube. ...... The metal tube is what you're after here - in some situations it's easier to take it off the top nipple - some it's easier from the lower nipple. ..... You want to get the B12 into the tube, not necessarily the hose - but if you get it into the tube, it'll naturally run down into where we want it to go anyway. ..... That big rubber hose is never gonna plug up without someone pouring JB Weld in it - and the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.
Great video by the way. I just had a melt down of my engine relay fuse box. Fan and headlight relays green group oxidation from all the humidity and rain. 270 K 2005.
OK I must have forgotten to connect that S hose from the fresh air intake into the metal nipple. So since the L hose on the CV side (crankcase ventilation) is IMPOSSIBLE to get at - I got a straw inserted into the Acetone Spray CRC - and I filled as much as possible into the metal nipple on the S hose side - with the S hose off. Do you think that will then flow down into the CV metal nipple into the Crankcase? Then I connected the S hose back onto the nipple - as it had been disconnected for the past six months or so - No wonder I got such terrible mileage in the winter - the air was sucking in from that S hose as a cold air intake!!? haha. The fact that OIL was spraying out of that S Hose then PROVES that the L hose metal nipple is blocked? Or did the oil spray out of the S hose because of the LACK of negative pressure since the S hose was disconnected? thanks
Actually, the "S" hose and the "L" hose are miles apart in function and they are not really related except they are on the same engine and are working to correct the emissions that every engine creates --- not counting two-cycle engines though. . Let me clarify that --- the PCV system consists of both a KV (atmospheric pressure side) and a CV side that is under full plenum vacuum at all times, but not like in the Olden Days. The CV side goes directly to the intake runners for each cylinder where the vacuum is created by that particular cylinder's intake stroke that pulls air through the throttle body at the same time as it inhales the vapors from the crankcase. Complicated? Just a bit! Mostly it's complicated by the fact that there's no real dedicated vacuum control valve --- commonly called: “The PCV Valve” --- but that's redundant. Of course, there's a lot more to this simplified assessment than I have written here.
@@SurferJoe46 Thanks for the clarification again Joe - yeah I had the air blasting out of that hole when I took the bottom end of the L hose off. So I figured it was already cleared out. I've been good at changing the oil every 3K and also have used MMO in the crankcase. So... anyway - I did put acetone in that hole - just a capful of the the B12 Berryman.... I put the rest into the fuel tank. My MpG went up a mile !! So that B12 Berryman is the best for cleaning out the fuel. Thanks again for the help - kind of exciting that I get better mileage now more than ever at 270K miles. If I got 55 miles per hour then I can get 24 mpg. Not bad.
Mr. Vreeland, first I wanted to say thank you for this video & all of your invaluable information on TrailVoy! I have to DIY my 08 Trailblazer 4.2 quite a bit & I am no mechanic, but with research & such helpful posts & videos on the ol' interwebs such as yours, I've been more successful at my undertakings than not! Additionally you are hilarious in your writing style. I also have a question, I grabbed a can of the spray Berryman's B-12 after seeing the thread on TrailVoy this morning, after further research, I see I need the liquid, not the aerosol; is it the fuel treatment or something else? Thanks in advance!
Berryman's B12 comes in both spray and liquid and it is the fuel treatment - among other things (like paint removal and making your hands dry and chapped). "Style" is sometimes underappreciated - although I like the Archie & Mehitabel (donmarquis.com/archy-and-mehitabel/) literary style --- (but I can use capitols and Carriage Return on my old IBM Selectronic) --- however I'm somewhat more stylistically reminiscent of somewhere between Suzuki Beane and H*Y*M*A*N* K*A*P*L*A*N with a little Victor Borge thrown in for balance.
The hose, really, has a top and a bottom and is hollow and one side goes to the plenum after the throttle plate and the other goes to the intake runners, just before the intake valves. It's really the same thing, just it's a lot easier to pour liquids DOWN into a hose than pouring them UP a hose. Gravity sux.
What part did you talk about p*** that cleaner into? the hose on the top on the left of the sparkplugs underneath the cover goes to or to the hose on the right next to the computer thing. And this is my first time working on a engine or on my04 Envoy
So you take the top clamp off the hose on the negative vacuum side? Poor the cap in the hose?(with car on or off)? Also wanted to know if anything will leak out when taking hose off? Edit: so I read other comments. I now know where to pour the b-12 . I just wanted to know if anything will pour out. It's an air hose only correct? Just to make sure sequence to do this should be. 1- car off (preferably warm), 2-take hose off metal tube. 3-pour cap in 4- put hose back on 5 start vehicle and run 6 repeat from step one a few times?
Yeah --- you've got it. >> You can actually take the hose off if the engine's running and it will stumble a bit and catch itself and steady up after a few moments. The throttle will need to close a lot further than normal and it may be dirty - but mostly the motor can overcome any soft contamination. >> Still - it's best to turn the engine off and pour the B12 in and just slip the hose back on without the clamp if you want to do this a few times, trying to get a better dose into the system. >> repeat until you either get some results or you get tired. >> I used my compressor with a long tipped blower nozzle to force a lot of air into the lower portion of the system --- the metal part --- and just blew through the clogged up gunk --- but it takes a little effort after pre-softening the crud with the B12. >> Put the clamp back on before you decide to drive away though .... OK?
I wish I could shake your hand and thank you for making this video Sir! Only question I have is how did you go about getting to the bottom end of the hose that connects to the intake manifold (the one for the crank case). Did you go in from the engine bay or from underneath the trailblazer to disconnect the bottom end of it? Hope you’re doing well.
All access as we need it is over the driver's side left fender. If you can't get the lower clamp off --- just pour the Berryman's Chemtool B-12 directly into the rubber hose when/if you get it off from the top clamp and plastic nipple. Thankfully --- on plastic --- the hose will be much easier to release and pull off because it won't create corrosion and make it hard to remove. Plastic and rubber don't really like each other anyway --- so they're happy to be bisected from each other.
Im doing my timing chain completely all parts , having a blast taking everything off to get to the parts. I have noticed that there is a load of gunk everywhere in the engine. Could that be cause of a plugged pcv system also?? Also what is the fluid that would be great to clean the pcv system??
OK --- there is no "valve" as you are thinking. it has no variable orface ... the vacuum is controlled by the MAP sensor in the plenum, right after the throttle plate. If the vacuum goes too low in the plenum, the ECM will not allow the throttle to open too much. It's kinda complicated to explain and I'm working on a video to explain it - that's gonna take a little bit to edit as that's going to be my first video editing project. Normally I just turn on the camera and let things just happen as they will.
I put the boroscope inside the air silencer intake box - I definitely saw a streak of oil - so some got in there for sure. So then I sprayed in throttle body cleaner and let it soak in. I washed it into a bucket with the power spray of water - not much oil at all! I did this a second time - to make sure I cleaned out the oil - still hardly any oil came out. So whatever blowby positive pressure was minimal - maybe it got clogged briefly but I don't think it's been a serious problem at all. I just can't justify pulling off that "dirty hose" PVC to clean out the port. Since if anything goes wrong with getting the hose back on then I'm in deep doodoo. haha. I have the tools and part now though in case it does start to clog.
What. Are. You. Talking. About? You are afraid to take a hose off because you're afraid? Of what? What can go wrong with putting it back on? This is done countless times on hoses all over the auto repair world! "Clogged briefly" isn't even possible. Just watch the video and do what it says --- you will succeed --- somehow.
@@SurferJoe46 OK that "clamp" on the new PVC hose does NOT do anything. It's there just to have something to grab onto to pull the hose off. OK I'll go buy some B12 now and then pull off the old hose. haha. I'll warm the car up first idling and then pull the hose off and the pour in the B12. Thanks for the inspiration.
Just for clarity. My hose, on the top of the long side of the L shaped hose, where it connects to the intake plastic plemium, has no clamp, its just slides on on mine. On the bottom where the short L connects to the crankcase via in metal intake manifold there is a clamp. The hose is so baked I question whether I can slide the hose down off the plemium (the hose would have to kink a bit) without first unclamping the bottom and pulling it out off the IM/crankcase fitting. From your post, I am assuming the clogged end is the crankcase, short L, end? Am I suppose to side the top down off the Plemium, leave the bottom connected, and pour some cleaner in the top of the hose so it can sit in the bottom of the hose and soak the opening into the crank? Is this correct? You mentioned that the B12 wouldn't mix with the oil....so am I correct in assuming that the passage into the case that is being cleaned runs up hill before it is exposed to clear air inside the crank. Finally, do I also need to squirt the b12 up into the plastic plemium fitting, ie does the top clog as well? TIA (using my wifes youtube)
yeah he wasn't really clear on how to clean it out - so left us wondering - unless someone is a real expert. haha. I look forward to the answer. thanks - below he answers it: I tend to not bother with taking the hose off the plastic nipple and instead remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube. ...... The metal tube is what you're after here - in some situations it's easier to take it off the top nipple - some it's easier from the lower nipple. ..... You want to get the B12 into the tube, not necessarily the hose - but if you get it into the tube, it'll naturally run down into where we want it to go anyway. ..... That big rubber hose is never gonna plug up without someone pouring JB Weld in it - and the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.
Both of the hoses for the pcv system can get clogged and create the same scenario. The hose that is connected to the air plenum does not need to be clamped. It is designed to not need one. You can use carbon cleaner/brake cleaner instead of B12 as long as you clean it out really good and let it dry before putting back together. Just as long as you don't leave a " pond " inside the plenum the air from the vacuum will evaporate the rest. The other hose from the air intake can be quite brittle after time. If you feel it and can't pinch it to check flexibility then I suggest buying some from the auto store. I like to just blow air in into the hose from a compressor. That one should have clamps on both ends of that hose. The air plenum is usually the one to be clogged. I check mines after every oil change. But be careful with the opening on the air plenum that connects to the hose. Those have broke on plenty of people and either replaced it or jb welded it back together
You got it correct. You can pour the B12 into the rubber(stiff/old) hose or into the lower metal nipple that turns 90 degrees into the area near the actual headgasket. Either place is ok ... it'll get there somehow. B12 has mighty strong vapors --- I wouldn't smoke or be eating a sandwich at the same time --- although i've ingested a lot of B12 over the years and it nebber bO7he-e-e-e-e-e-e-red me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If this is the problem will it cause stalling a idle? once mine gets up to running temp it stalls at idle? i do have oil coming into my air intake box! Was thinking head gasket just not sure i do not get any codes. I wish i could just turn the idle up! lol Also i have a new pcv valve coming that is on the valve cover any thoughts on how that will come out without breaking and going in the valve cover?
1. There is no PCV valve. You cannot buy one - nor does one exist --- but I guess some unscrupulous persons might sell you one. 2. Oil in the box is because of positive pressure in the crankcase because the PCV is not working. 3. Stalling after warm-up can be from the MAF or BMAP not sending valid metrics to the engine management system (PCM) 4. Bad metrics from the BMAP or MAP is because the PCV is not working. 5. Idle speed is baked-into the computer - it is not adjustable - don't even try. 6. Don't lower the river, raise the bridge by fixing the obvious problem first.
Just curious... if you block-off the PCV hole at the intake, and just vent the PCV hose into the atmosphere, would that eliminate any adverse effects from the PCV system without negatively effecting engine performance? I understand it would vent unburned blow-by gasses into the atmosphere, but this is just a hypothetical question. Also, why not route the PCV into, say, the purge system. The pressure from blow-by would positively pressurize the fuel system and serve as a fuel pump assist. Any over-pressurization could then be vented by the purge valve? 🤔
1st --- the fuel system in the tank is under vacuum. If you pressurize it --- here come the flying monkeys. 2. If you do not promote or at least maintain a vacuum in the crankcase, condensate builds up rapidly and gets homogenized into the oil and destroys the bearings, is especially nasty to the cam and followers and will rust the VVT into an inconvenient place that'll throw codes all day long.
I have plenty of vacuum from the top nipple on the valve cover. I’m not feeling much from the dipstick tube. I’m a bit worried because I just replaced the valve cover gaskets. Every gasket around the coils failed and was full of oil. I really don’t want to do that job again. 05 trailblazer with the same motor. Any suggestions? Thanks for the vid.
Vacuum at the dipstick may be next to impossible to feel --- perhaps a vacuum gauge would see it though. The inside of the engine should be under a negative value (no pressure --- good amount of vacuum) all the time and it is especially noticeable at idle 'cause you can get to it whilst the engine is running. Keeping a good vacuum metric is only possible if the system's working properly. When there's no vacuum is when things start to leak or seep oil. I'd say you should be in a pretty good place if you can get good vacuum in the engine crankcase.
Remember this isn't clraning the injectors or fuel system; it's trying to dissolve caked and baked on crud and deposits from years of neglect. I understand that Chevron Techron is another good solvent, but I've never used it. B12 I know; others not much at all.
You have to warm up the engine, fill up the tube and connect the tube and let it sit for 30 min. Turn over the engine and let it warm up again and do it again. I did mine four times and then it worked great the first time. If it still doesn't work then check your throttle body, air sensor map, and clutch position sensor.
Most carb cleaners are not as aggressive as B12. It may take more 1. cleaner, 2. patience, 3. money t get the same results. It can't help --- but if it will help enuff --- I got nuttin'.
☼ I think not because ---> for a P0171 problem code to come from the PCV system, the AFR is significantly lean ---- and there's not really any way the CV-side of the PCV could cause that unless the hose was either badly damaged or totally missing. .............. a P0171 means the PCM is detecting the engine is receiving too much air and not enough fuel. ☼ That would be a gross leak which I think might be so-o-o out-of-range for the computer to handle ... you should get a flashing SEL and perhaps a small hammer would pop out of the the headrest whacking the driver in the head to get his attention. ☼ A P0171 code is set by your vehicle's powertrain control module (PCM) when it detects that the air-to-fuel ratio of your vehicle is too lean ... make that "very lean" if this were to be what happened.
@@SurferJoe46 Thank you for your response. I think I've figured it out. I'm thinking it is a small exhaust leak causing the code. I'll find out soon enough. Regardless, thank you for sharing this video. It makes a lot of sense and is something I would have never known had you not shared it. My Trailblazer is not drawing a vacuum at the dipstick so it will be getting your Berrman's treatment some day soon. But first, this Check Engine Light.
@@altarwork My Trailblazer did not like the new MAF sensor I had put in it. Or it was defective. Or it just took some time for the ECU to figure things out after I fixed all of the leaks on the intake side. Honestly, I’m not really sure. The fuel trims were very high. After running multiple times with the old MAF in it the trims finally settled down to be within the ECUs tolerance. Then it stopped throwing the code. I haven’t tried putting the new MAF sensor back in. I’d bet it works now. I think the ECU just took some time to figure things out.
Hello , I just just sprayed out my Hose like you said and had air into manifold hose and Air coming back out from my left side vent hose , but im not getting a Vacuum on my Oil stick what could else be plugged up ?
I'm not clear on what you mean by "spraying" as I never said to use the spray version of B12; use the LIQUID version and pour some into the hose, reattach the hose, start the engine after a short time. Are you sure you have air coming out the left side hose? I ask because you are supposed to pour liquid B12 into the left hose. Remember --- the left side of the engine is the driver's side as if you are sitting in the car sitting behind the wheel. The only thing that will restrict the air flow is that the passageways inside the head intake runners --- are full of hardened gunk. It may take several --- many --- a lot of treatments to get it to start working if it's never been cleaned or kept clean for years by now. Make sure the engine's up to normal temperature before you put the B12 into the hose --- and let it sit because the vapors are very aggressive if you let it boil for a bit. Repeat at least a few times - weekly if possible until things start getting cleaner and cleaner. .
Huh what I meant Sprayed I used Carburator Cleaner and the used an Air Hose when I did the Air spray Air came out the other PVC hose on the right side of Motor PVC but still no Vacuum on my Oil Stick , P0171 code and P030 O2 sensor code something seems Plugged up still in Motor > You think it could be the Head Intake runners , I did Add some Rislone to clean Motor and used some Fuel cleaner .@@SurferJoe46
@@lassiejr2115 I'm still confused. There is NO PCV hose on the right side of the "motor" as you put it. There IS a KV hose - the short "S-shaped" hose that goes between the air-sound deadening chamber and the valve cover however. Is this the "PCV" hose to which you are erroneously referring? "Carberetor spray" is not the correct liquid to use. Specifically, I said: "Berryman's B-12" is correct as it is very much more aggressive than other chemicals in this application. You state that "something seems plugged up still in (the) motor" and I cannot reason how you came to that idea because the P0171 means you have a Fuel Trim System Lean condition in Bank 1--- and no way can a defective/inoperative PCV system cause that. Your P0303 is also NOT caused by a defective/inoperative PCV system. FYI --> P0303 indicates a problem in #3 cylinder --- but it is not suggesting any cure or deeper diagnosis in that cylinder --- it just says there is something wrong in how #3 cylinder is performing --- and that may actually be a red herring too. P0303 is not a malfunction from a bad/ineffective PCV system --- it is related to only one cylinder and the PCV system involves ALL cylinders and cannot just pick on one or two ---- You are in over your head I think and are not categorically NOT following my instructions and you are making wild a$$ assumptions that are not logical nor part of helping the PCV to return to a good working condition. These codes are another problem entirely NOT related to the PCV system,
@@lassiejr2115 DANGER ---> Using Rislone or any other magic-in-a-can cleaners or additives is totally counterindicated for this engine. This engine needs FLOW, not pressure as it meters the oil to the many zones it is needed and adding something that cleans and changes the viscosity of the oil can be extremely damaging to this engine. Stop using these chemicals in the crankcase! You are harming your engine.
The solution may be multi-fold in that, ultimately the oil on the tops of the plugs - and this means inside the sparkplug wells machined into the head - comes from the valve cover gasket failing to hold the oil inside the top of the engine. That said ---> there's a reason WHY it's happening and this leak is not really "typical" unless something else is working on it to cause it to fail -- talking about the valve cover gasket. 1. Pressure is not supposed to exist inside the valve cover --- also not in the crankcase by inclusion. 2. The biggest problem is failure to service the crankcase ventillation system, and that's what my video was all about. 3. The whole inside of the engine - the crankcase, by common name - is supposed to be under at least SOME vacuum at all times. 4. View the video and see what other people have had for their experiences and see if you can find how you can help your engine to not leak. Find the cause and fix the problem.
Quick question. Is there anything down the hole of the upper hose? This one has a spring assembly but no internals. A pocket screwdriver goes straight down. It also whistles while on idle
I have nothing but blackness looking down that standpipe ... there is no mechanism about which to worry - it's just a direct passage to the intake runners that will carry fumes and vapors from the crankcase when the engine's running - that's all.
While changing my air filter in my 04 trailblazer I noticed what looks like a bypass of the air filter air, seems very odd. Open air box, remove filter look as far forward as you can (toward front of car) is this really bypassing air filter w dirty air?
"The" formed hose is not likely available --- but it is easy enough to buy some bulk CV hose at your local auto parts. Remember that all hoses that are in the PCV/KV/CV/AIR Injection system(s) even if you don't have all of those I just mentioned --- will have hose that is measured in 32ds of an inch. Examples ---> 15/32", 11/32", 9/32", 5/32" ... etc. This was to keep people from replacing the correct hose for a piece of garden hose. The reason is that garden hose will melt whereas real emission-type hose will not.
Boss, how can I make this adaptation for me TrailBlazer a couple of days ago there was an explosion due to the oil spring, hopefully it will reply to the message, regards, Boss
OK, I'm going to sound like an idiot since I've never used this additive. So I want to be sure before I screw something up. You are using "Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor, Fuel System cleaner" as a solvent for the crankcase ventilation tube? It makes sense but I want to be sure. I cleaned my Throttle Body today and I'm surprised the car ran at all, it was filthy. I don't think it's ever been cleaned and my 2008 TB has 150K on the clock. There was a light coating of oil in the intake plenum. If this is the right stuff I'm going shopping for next weekends project.
That oil is from the PCV system not working up to standards. If it is working, the flow will never enter the plenum or throttle body butterfly. There should ONLY be cleaned air - after the air filter - going through the throttle body - nothing else.
Thanks for the great video! My hose does not have a top clamp it looks like the bottom does. Also while hose is rock hard so I’m unable to get it off. Any idea on how I could get it off without braking anything?
The hose is easily available in bulk at most auto parts houses .... they will cut it as long or short as you need. Clamps? Well --- with a new hose maybe not --- but the factory has a policy to clamp almost everything and that's not a bad thing. PS ---> buy the new piece of hose before you damage the old one.
@@SurferJoe46 yeah but in the long run it coats the whole inside of your intake coach your throttle position sensor and the air valve that's their I can't think of the initials for it.. I'm talking about the valve/sensor controls your idol. I just cleaned a 2004 intake out that had that exact problem. It had a hole coat of like varnish inside the plastic intake and into the plum that's where I stopped and I'm sure there was more. I'm sure it made the valve train sluggish and all
@@markthrush2139 You realize, don't you, that there's not supposed to be anything but clean air going through that throttle body - right? If you're getting a varnish build up, it's coming through a K&N filter or there's a leak inside the clean air side of the filtered air-through the plenum. At NO time is there supposed to be any oil that might form the "varnish" you mention unless it's coming from the inoperative PCV ---> it's not working and the fumes are going backward into the plenum.
I am currently of the opinion that a P0300 is a red herring (false flag) that can keep people changing coils, injectors and plugs for eternity. There are actually quite a few things that can cause the P0300 and they are not truly related to anything going on in the combustion chambers. I have begun writing about it in the TrailVoy website. ( www.trailvoy.com/ )
Seafoam is not aggressive enough to clean these passageways ----- it is really just the equivalent of green soap that was used in lavatories in grammar schools when I was a kid. I had an industrial chemist tell me that and I have no reason to doubt him. Seafoam won't harm your vehicle paint, but I'm not too sure your paint would be safe with B-12 on it.
@@SurferJoe46 I notice 2x 8mm or so bolts in there can I remove an replace this part? or does the whole plenum require removal also. In anycase, i'll have to purchase the B12 online.. Canadians have no good products for sale :P such as B12 unless you could recommend something of the sort. I have zero vacuum from the oil dipstick also. I've read a few posts in here but to keep it simple I'm focusing on the port on the bottom that has almost no vacuum? the top one has great suction. Or both would be beneficial?
Wow my S hose is TAKEN OFF the negative pressure intake as you state, "that goes INTO the valve cover" - so did a mechanic do that ON PURPOSE!! To stop the throttle body from getting dirty? I have oil sprayed OUT of that S hose!!! Holy smokes. I was wondering why that oil was there. haha. How bad is it that the pressure is now POSITIVE and shooting out of that S hose - the extra oil? (besides the fact that it's probably illegal).
For the system to work correctly, reconnect the "s" hose and service the BIG HOSE side of it with the B-12 treatment a few times. EVENTUALLY it'll clean out at least some, anyway! Your "mechanic" has no understanding of the way it works, that's why he disconnected it. PRESSURE in the PCV system is a clue as to the same pressure in the crankcase. It's all related and the problem is that the PCV CV-side of the system has been unserviced for a long time. YOUR job is to now get it working - at least a little bit - as every treatment of B-12 will improve it until all 6 ports are pulling a vacuum in the crankcase.
@@SurferJoe46 OK thanks for the response Joe. How did you pour the B12 into the crankcase port? Did you just use a funnel? One person on the forum mentioned attaching a 1/2 inch heater hose that is 2 feet long and then putting the funnel into that hose - to pour the B12 into the port. Is it necessary? Or do I need a special type of funnel? Yesterday I put a boroscope into the air silencer box and I did see some oil streaks. So then I sprayed in acetone and let it sit and then power washed water into the air box - but seriously barely any oil came out air box. I did that twice and there was next to no oil coming out of the air box. So I have done oil changes at 3K for the TB for pretty much the whole 257K miles. I think I went to 5K once or twice. So I'm really not sure if that PVC port ever clogged up. So you're saying that there's no risk - that the B12 at a capful at a time will be fine into the crankcase intake channels even if it's not clogged up? .. That "port" goes into some kind of intake channels that then go into the crankcase? I just got the new L "dirty hose" PVC part that is flexible. It's difficult to SEE the negative pressure crankcase port and the upper intake manifold nipple - I got hose pliers to take off the old hose. I used a boroscope - so I could see the "spring clamp" on the bottom of the hose at the crankcase port connection. I didn't ask any mechanic to do this - but maybe I should. Did you use the Liesle Hose Removal Pliers? It seems like those would not fit into that space. I ordered those just in case they might help. People talked about the old PVC hose being brittle and baked on. I just want to make sure I can get the NEW PVC "L dirty" negative vacuum hose back on since obviously it's required to run the engine - for the proper negative pressure, etc. before i take off the old one. Yeah I actually need to get the B12 still - my car is now vibrating from new rear coil springs and struts - so I need the wheels balanced and an alignment - that is scheduled for Wednesday. I'm trying not to drive till then just to make sure I don't damage the CV joints - because the new rear coil springs raised my TB up two more inches. I have a 9 inch ground clearance now.
My hose that's under the cover that leads into the nipple it's ripped and leaking oil thru there I can't find a specific name for that hose to buy a new one can u help naming it ?
You'll get blank stares if you ask for what it's supposed to be called: KV Hose. That it's leaking oil is a bad thing - it proves the system isn't working because there's never supposed to be any oil there - not in the hose or the nipple or the sound chamber or the throttle body.
When I take the L shaped hose off on the vaccum side, do I take it off from the bottom or the top ? I tried to pull it from the top and it didn’t seem like it wanted to come off. Also is the metal tube in the hose itself or is it at the top or the bottom ?
@@SurferJoe46 My S hose bottom end is OFF and disconnected! And there's oil sprayed around that area. So that must mean the pressure built up to blow it off? Or did some mechanic remove it you think? How bad it is to run the engine with that disconnected? I've probably ran it that way a long time. haha. I removed and cleaned the throttle body but I don't think I forgot to connect that hose? I'll check the instructions of throttle body cleaning - I don't think it required disconnecting that S hose.... hmm.
Thank so much for the video. This system is more like the European vehicles no actual pcv but a system. Ps the Egr in this vehicle is control by the camshaft facer.
Sorry to be so late in responding, but I just caught this and as a matter of fact, this engine has NO EGR system - and that's because of the exhaust cam being variable and can keep the combustion chamber(s) from exceeding stoichiometric values.
@@SurferJoe46 /ˌstoikēōˈmetrik/ relating to or denoting quantities of reactants in simple integral ratios, as prescribed by an equation or formula. "a stoichiometric amount of potassium is required for 90% removal of the SO" wow - fancy word - thanks
I found the forum threads that this vid goes to - if the forum threads had been linked - or if you link them in the vid description - that will clarify things for anyone who discovers your vid on youtube and not via some obscure forum thread. haha. UA-cam has algorithms so most people are gonna find this vid on their own and not via the thread. thanks
None of them have a PCV-valve. There is no actual part you can change. Oil in the box means you're collecting water in the engine - in the crankcase and it will destroy the VVT actuator and can destroy the cam and/or cam followers, not to mention the rod and main bearings. Failure to keep the PCV system that this engine DOES have - is dangerous to a lot of things inside the engine that should never see condensed water. You should never have to clean that throttle body from oil - all that is SUPPOSED to go through the throttle body is filtered air.
@@fernesal Not immediately --- it takes repetitive applications to finally get it to working better each time. You MAY see results immediately (don't count on it) --- but if you persevere, you'll get it eventually.
I was wanting to replace the hoses because mine are really hard. I feel like if I try to bend it to pour the cap in it. It will break. Any idea what size the hose is? The elbow one on intake side. Not the s one on the resonator. I appreciate it.
Sorry I just noticed this question .... and no ... I haven't measured the hose. Strange that it got hard; PCV, KV, CV, et al hoses are usually made out of better than just heater hoses. If I were to make a guess, the dimension would be in 32nds of an inch with an uneven number on top .... 11/32 or 21/32 or something like that ... to differentiate emission hose from coolant or fuel hose. That's always been an industry-wide standard for LEGAL factory vapor hoses on engines for a long time. Another interesting thing is that those hoses also had a green stripe running on them to make it obvious it was a crankcase vent hose of some kind ... this may not still be an identifying mark though as I don't remember seeing it here.
@@SurferJoe46 thank you, the top of the positive crank ventilation hose. Is cracked and mine doesnt even have the clamp on it. I ordered a new hose for both sides. And different size clamp set. Also a long pipe cleaner. I'll try doing this. But nothing has helped so far. My idle is still dropping. Idk what it could be besides a leak now. I'm gonna probably have to go get it smoke tested
@@paulhawkins1460 I found them on amazon, I got the right one but the positive side is so hard to take clamp off. I just put a clamp on the old hose on the top part to make sure there's no air getting in. Until I have a day to mess around with it. I need to get a little baby pair of pliers or small needle noses
I kinda lose you when you’re talking about removing the gunk. Could you go through the motions of doing so. We’ve got an easy 235k on our 06 and suspect we may need a DNC, DUSTING N CLEANING inside there. Great video. Thank you. Steve, Plymouth MA
The only thing you can do short of removing the head is to clean, clean and clean some more with the B-12 to soften up and let the gunk get sucked into the hellish fire of the combustion chamber. Use the B-12 as many times as you feel or desire - just remember that there's not "complete cure" to the systems if they've been ignored for years. You can clean it - mostly, not 100%.
I THINK I understand your comment --- but do you want ME to provide something more tangible? "Filtering" the vapors isn't a problem --- it's not even wanted because that's not even a good idea and it just adds another layer of responsibility that owners can ignore too. I honestly DO appreciate your comment and if you can give me a little more help in understanding your concern --- please re-post it here.
A viewable pvc filter could stop could stop the damage you described, and yes it might be neglected but even oil gets neglected but if you’re wondering what’s wrong with it any look and see the filter has oil in it you know there’s a problem there picking any type of debris that shouldn’t be
@@redxband1994 Aha! I see where you're at --- and I don't agree in theory although your intentions are good. What I THINK you want is something like the old bowtie KV fibrous strand filter in the air cleaner. That system is rather antique and there's the disposal of it when it gets full --- something a Federally regulated vehicle is not allowed to generate any more. So since motor vehicles are ascribed to become cleaner and less polluting every new model year, a system that can maintains itself with scheduled oil changes and regular services is where things are going and the designers are told to keep the DIYer out of the control systems other than a steering wheel, a throttle and a brake.
@@SurferJoe46 exactly it could be one more thing to charge a customer to change but how big of a problem is oil in the pcv system . So why not a filter on the crank case vent ,I also have some questions I own a trailblazer 04 and having problems with idle
@@redxband1994 You keep saying "pcv system" and you've got to understand that any oil in the KV side is the indicator that the CV-side is not working and I don't see where the option to install a filter on the CV side is possible nor even feasible. The KV side won't improve with a filter because there's never supposed to be any oil in it --- never. IF oil is flowing through the KV side and into the air/plenum of the intake - the system is running backwards which indicates a failure of the crankcase to be correctly cleaned and that's the problem. Water collects in the engine and that's damaging and destroys the oils properties and the purpose of even having oil in the crankcase. Polluted oil - contaminated with water is - on all levels - destructive. Filter or not - and there's no way to filter the crankcase emissions because they would render any filter as plugged and useless in a few miles. You'd have to run alongside the vehicle changing filters as it went down the road.
@SurferJoe46 the 08 trailblazer had an updated longer exhaust, clogged up both of them, swapped them out with a cheap ebay special pipe and unplugged the upper sensor, purrs like a kitty now lol
I don’t fully understand how to clean that tube. I’m pulling out the intake and replacing the valve gasket, and noticed oil all in the air box. Can you explain more?
The air box (correctly called the "sound deadener chamber") getting baby poop in it is because your CV-side of the system is totally plugged up and is reverse flowing. The flow is INTO the nipple - that goes INTO the valve cover and INTO the crankcase and INTO the vacuum side of the PCV system (the CV-side) and is burned up as fuel. It's originally designed as an economy device but they found out it was sure nice to eat the sump gas fumes that smelled amazingly like an open sewer. . You have to take that rubber hose off at the plenum and add a couple of capsfull of B12 into it and let it cook a while. Repeat often until you get a small but noticeable vacuum at the oil filler cap. If you're removing the whole intake plenum and runners, you will have better access to the ports and you can clean them a lot better when they are in the open.
@@SurferJoe46 got it! I recently replaced my valve cover so I took the intake off anyways and cleaned that hose you’re talking about. I also installed an oil catch can at the nipple and sound deadened chamber and it’s already filtering crap.
@@TheCodesterr That's all well-n-good, but you're not getting the water out of your engine. You need to get that PCV System flow working, not just catching the bad results. The problem is not being addressed the way you've done it and you run the risk of rusting the VVT intro a seized-locked position. Many people keep having trouble with the VVT and the PCV is the cause. You've gotta fix the problem! You can watch this guy - it's not EXACTLY your situation - but the results and the logic are the same ..ua-cam.com/video/PDkCbJOV-28/v-deo.html
@@TheCodesterr yes my S hose is disconnected at the nipple and oil has sprayed out around there - so either I disconnected it when taking out the throttle body - I don't think so - or a mechanic did it to "bypass" this problem of the positive pressure spray back. Crazy - and I've been driving this way for how long? !! So you're saying that now water condensation can get into the engine via that nipple? OH I get - because there's no longer NEGATIVE PRESSURE then water vapor is not getting OUT of the engine. Yeah.
@@TheCodesterr The hose is only a pathway to the problem --- which is in the head gasket area. Taking the intake off will not allow access to the actual ports that are considered as the major players of the passive PCV system. When we pour B-12 in either the tube or the nipple - it goes to the same place to soften up and eventually allow the crud and corruption to be sucked out of those passageways. When they are clean, the PCV will be able to work and there will be NO baby poop in the air intake system at all. None. Nada!
I took the air box off and used a plastic long thin tie wrap and put it in the hole and once I felt the blockage less than a inch from the hole and worked the tie wrap gently until I felt the clog clear. I poured 1 cap of Berrymans B12 in the hole. Started the car. The problem is solved.
you have to read all the comments to figure it out. Here you go: The air box (correctly called the "sound deadener chamber") getting baby poop in it is because your CV-side of the system is totally plugged up and is reverse flowing.The flow is INTO the nipple - that goes INTO the valve cover and INTO the crankcase and INTO the vacuum side of the PCV system (the CV-side) and is burned up as fuel. It's originally designed as an economy device but they found out it was sure nice to eat the sump gas fumes that smelled amazingly like an open sewer. . remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube. You want to get the B12 into the tube the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube. The liquid is going into the intake and won't contaminate the oil in the engine. It's a totally different system. Persistence is the answer and it will get better and better with every application. You've gotta keep at it until you think it's really clean - evidenced by the vacuum at the oil filer when you put your hand over it while the engine's running. You just have to get the B12 into that circuit - it'll run down and soften the deposits. The problem is not being addressed the way you've done it and you run the risk of rusting the VVT intro a seized-locked position. Many people keep having trouble with the VVT and the PCV is the cause. Just to make sure the sequence to do this should be.1- car off (preferably warm), 2-take hose off metal tube.3-pour cap in4- put hose back on5 start vehicle and run6 repeat from step one a few times? Still - it's best to turn the engine off and pour the B12 in and just slip the hose back on without the clamp if you want to do this a few times, trying to get a better dose into the system. I used my compressor with a long tipped blower nozzle to force a lot of air into the lower portion of the system --- the metal part --- and just blew through the clogged up gunk --- but it takes a little effort after pre-softening the crud with the B12. >> Put the clamp back on before you decide to drive away though .... OK?
SEe his other vid for more details - it is ultimately controlled by a sized-metered orifice on the valve cover, which INHALES clean air after the air cleaner, then allowing it to travel into the crankcase area of the engine block, sweeping away any blowby and byproducts of combustion - the worst of which is moisture in the form of condensate from the fuel combustion and the atmosphere. The crankcase must remain in a negative pressure condition - a vacuum if you will ... at all times. If oil/condensate rises from the valve cover nipple, then the suction side of the system is plugged up and is not operating to specs. This emulsion will travel into the throttle body, contaminating it and then it requires repeated cleanings to make it operate correctly. The CV side can be serviced though - even though it cannot be removed to access any way to actually clean it in your hands. We can chemically clean it - often in repeated treatments if the system has not been or has never been cleaned. This video shows how to service the CV side and that should take care of the KV side too - since the KV side is really easy to access and poke a thin wire through the small-ish hole that serves as the limiter to how much air the system can 'inhale'. PS --- don't use any hose clamps on the s-shaped hose. It has to have the ability to blow off it pressure gets too great .... which is should never. Besides, the valve cover gasket will fail and fill up the spark plug tubes with oil if the pressure gets too high - long before anything actually overrides the capacity of the air flow.
No one really cared about everything that he went on about. It doesn't say how engine works. It says you're going to show the PCV valve location. Make another video for the rest
But I DID show where the PCV is --- it's nowhere! The "V" part of PCV implicates that there's a valve somewhere in this labrynth system --- there is NOT. It's just ports that never change dimensions nor flow capacities unless they are clogged up with gunk. When they are clogged up --- baby poop happens. YOU may not care --- but many do as I took a soft approach to a complicated and unreliable system that is rife with problems IF one does not keep it all clean. My post is REPAIR-ITIVE, not a Maintenance Instruction. If you came here --- obviously --- yours isn't working.
Thank you so much for this video. I have cleaned and replaced my throttle body, map, and clutch sensor a couple times to fix this issue. Even all of my spark plugs and direct ignition coils. This year it still had the random misfires and rumbles after all the changes. I finally thought maybe it was the pvc. It was acting just like a 3800 series 2 v6. First start of the day works great. After warm up acts horrible but darn sure not a bad gasket.
So finally looked up where the pvc is on the 4200 and found your video. After following your instructions. Warmed up the engine, filled tube, put tube back on and let sit for 30min, wamred up engine again and repeat. After doing this four times it seems to have cleared out the pvc system and now works great through the day.
So thank you so much for this video. I was losing my mind until i remembered the pvc sytem and found your video.
That's what I'm here for .... thanks.
This is probably the best straight forward and well explained video I've ever seen on UA-cam.
Thank-you for that accolade.
Had my TrailBlazer at least 10 times in the shop because of a P0014. I noticed the chocolate mayonnaise in my airbox. I regularly clean the nasty throttle body and change the oil every 3 to 4 months to avoid the P0014 popping up. No matter what the shop did, or I did fixed the problem.
Just picked up a new Variable Valve Timing Solenoid today and get the oil change done tomorrow. I will try your cleaning advice as well since I am very confident that's causing the problem.
I really appreciate this fantastic video! Will keep you updated.
It has been a month since the oil change and VVT Solenoid replacement. I used a Liqui Moly engine flush before the oil change. When I removed the hose to poor Sea Foam in it, I noticed the hose was porous so I replaced it entirely (what a nightmare to get off). In addition, I cleaned the throttle body and used the Sea Foam Top Engine cleaner & lube.
First of all, what a difference in power. The engine runs like new and second of all, no more P0014 popping up when driving long distances. I assume it was the hose causing a vacuum leak since the VVT Solenoid has been replaced twice in the last 3 years, but don't know for sure. I am disappointed that none of the mechanics could figure this out. Anyway, thank you so much for the video.
Thanks --- awaiting any news on your success in making the PCV work again!
By far the best video about the subject. People seem to love to "bypass" the standard system because they have no clue how it works. Ill have to clean out my system because my intake resonator gets oil in it from time to time.
Thank you that fix my car I thought that the engine need a rebuild because of the blow by
This solved my "cold start rough idle" issue! I used Gumout C&C cleaner spray. Also, I added a 90° elbow to the 1/2 ID pcv house from the driver engine because even a new house would crease in that tight spot.
Great information! I recently figured this out on my own, I wish I had seen this earlier. This video will help a lot of people!
Glad it was helpful!
It's hard to find such a great well informed and straight to the exact point
It wasn't my Grandma it was my ex-wife I knew I shouldn't have listened to her thanks for the information it's never run so good
Chevy's 2.2l had a weird setup as well. I had a gmc sonoma with a very odd amount of vacuum through the crankcase breather hose. I took the intake completely off looking for the valve, GM had figured up a way to build the orifice into the intake gasket. With time I guess heat and oil degraded the gasket and broke a big hole into the gasket where the orifice is.
Makes sense .... no moving parts .... heh, heh.
Thank you for the video. You should me more about my engine then all the youtube videos I've seen over the last few years. Thank you
Thanks. I appreciate that comment.
OK Joe - I did it!! The hose was NOT baked on or brittle!! I used the Pittsburgh hose plier to take off the bottom end going into the crankcase. I forgot to turn the car off so immediately air shot OUT of the "port" - that's good because it means it was NOT clogged!! haha. Since i had the hose off then I poured some B12 in there - more than a capful - probably a couple cap fulls. Then I revved the engine a bit in idle to try burn it off - so the engine wouldn't hydrolock. Then I turned off the engine - put the hose back on and drove around for about 10 minutes. I had a "Service Engine Light" but since i just bought the Innova 3100 - then I cleared out the "idling at high speed" P code. Oh yeah - the hose stayed on - I reused the Old HOse!! Since it was in good condition. So what do you say to that report? You still think my PVC Hose port needs more cleaning? hahaha. You let me know. Is your goal to clean out the crankcase side of it more so than the "six ports" your referred to in the Intake Manifold? I realize those six ports are gonna be dirty.
I'm just gonna use MMO from now on - I'll just had a quart of MMO added to my engine oil when I get an oil change and run it for the whole OTC. What do you think of that idea? Too long for MMO to be in the engine? I don't think it's a problem. Let me know if you think that's a problem in your view. haha. thanks again for the help - that was a fun adventure. P. s. I put the Boroscope down the hole and I didn't see anything - and so then I put my bicycle pump against the hole but I couldn't generate much PSI. I don't have any air pressure hose or forced air dealy. So like I said - air shot OUT of the port with the engine on - so it's not clogged up.
I love MMO --- but I tend to not put it into "metered-flow" style lubrication systems like our 4.2s. In a "pressure-type" oil flow system, the higher the oil pressure -- the better (up to a point).
BUT --> our engines are lubricated by metered oilflow, not pressure. That's why GM created the strawman oil pressure gauge on the dash.
....... it tells of what a "normal" engine would have for oil pressure IF it was a pressure-lubricated engine.
Owners would freak out if they saw 12lbs of oil pressure on the gauge - right? But that's what it is!
About MMO --- I use it - a lot of it really - primarily in my air tools air inlet for lubrication --- and I love the aroma of it too!
I also like to use it when I'm tapping threads into aluminum --- kerosene is better, but harder to find where I live. So ---> it's Marvel Mystery Oil to the rescue - but not in our engines.
Great explanation of the pvc system
Glad it helped
The fact this isn’t viewed more amazes me. I’m younger and This is AMAZING information. Owned my trailblazer for 8 years, never knew about this. Started having issues with oil coming out of that bypass tube. I wish you had more videos pertaining to this truck. I could learn so much from you!
It is a niche-video that only applies to people who actually own these vehicles.
As such, and that many people start changing the air filters, rotating the tires and changing the taillight bulbs to fix oil leaks at the valve cover and condensate buildup in the crankcase.
Thanks for your comment.
Great job! No nonsense video with real, valuable info. Thank you!
This is one of my favorite PCV vids.
I've cleaned my throttle body twice - I've taken it out and cleaned it. I'm gonna do this PVC system clean now - awesome info. thanks
Glad it helped. Once the PCV is working correctly, cleaning the throttle body will be on a 3-year schedule.
Thanks for the info, great video. I just got one of these and I'm working out the kinks. My throttle body was disgusting and when I was changing the plugs I noticed a bit of oil so I did the valve cover gasket and plug seals. During that nightmare I noticed that the intake was totally filled with gunk, even the ports were caked with at least a quarter inch of goo.
Did my best to clean that all out and that led me to the Trailvoy forum where I came across this discussion and this video. It's running much better now but I still get a bit of slight bogging for a second when I come to a stop. The idle isn't quite as smooth as I would expect from a straight 6 either.
I'm going to see if the CV side hose is clogged. Maybe the entire intake manifold being clogged caused the same thing as you described. Any more tips for cleaning that out? I think it must be worth a shot, but I do feel sketchy dumping cleaners down there into the crank. Should I just remove that hose and clean it or is it probably clogged deep inside the passages? Any specific cleaners I need for this? Can I just safely dump it in there and pump it back out with a hand pump? Any details would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the 50 questions but you seems like a trustworthy source and a helpful person and this info doesn't seem easy to come by. Again, thank you sir. o7
The liquid is going into the intake and won't contaminate the oil in the engine. It's a totally different system.
Persistence is the answer and it will get better and better with every application.
You've gotta keep at it until you think it's really clean - evidenced by the vacuum at the oil filer when you put your hand over it while the engine's running.
PS .... I also used an air nozzle with a long tube and pushed it down into the hose and hit the trigger a few times ... not really letting the pressure get too high ... a touchy-feely thing that uses a 6th sense to know when enough is enough and when to stop.
Hey Joe. Thanks for the great video.
Listen, My 2009 trailblazer makes loud exhaust noises on passenger side of engine which go away to a certain degree after the car warms up. I was told by a mechanic that these vehicles are notorious for developing exhaust manifold cracks. Can that be right? I have a feeling that it could be the expansion "donut" seal where the exhaust manifold ties to the rest of the exhaust system.
What do you think?
Unfortunately the exhaust manifold has issues with breaking bolts and cracking. Once you hear noise from there it needs an intervention. The donut doesn't seem to be a big problem though.
Great video, man. Needed info for one of these beasties to say the least.
PCV stands for positive crank ventilation not pollution control valve
I'm sure you needed to say that. Feel better now?
Hello I have a 07 trailblazer 4.2 rough idle p0300 code. I've replced coils plugs,map maf,cvt valve. It has a rough idle only when it's warm. I can pull that hose off the manifold and have great vacuum soon as I plug that hose back in rough idle. I have that white chocolate milk on the top of my oil cap but not on my dipstick or inside the box going to the throttle body. Any ideas
Thank-you for asking this question ---
The emulsion (a mixture of oil and water) under the OIL cap has to be addressed first.
With the engine running, reach under the sound chamber and flick the "s-hose" off the nipple that comes up from the valve cover.
Check for vacuum at that nipple, not the sound chamber side of the s-hose.
@SurferJoe46 thanks for getting back to me. So I have no vacuum at that s pipe. After checking it I put my finger over the nipple, and I do get a small whistle when I pull my finger off it
So take the tube off pour b12 in it reconnect it an let it sit then without removing the hose again start the truck up an let it burn the residue off?
Yup. It's best if you pour the B-12 into a hot engine --- the vapors are great cleaners!
@@SurferJoe46 ok because I have no suction in the dipstick an no milkshake in the filler cap. But the truck only smokes if idle for a short time like a drive thru
@@bikerboyvideos6147 describe the smoke for me
1) fluffy white smoke that disappears in a few moments or gently drifts away ..........................
2) heavy kinda-blue-ish smoke that smells sweet and lingers for a long time and will blow out a bigger cloud if you rev the engine
3) an acrid - eye-watering smoke that can make you cough and hurts you lungs -- the smell is nasty and sharp.
Take your pick 1 or 2 or 3.
@@SurferJoe46 2 but smells like oil. As long as you driving it doesn't smoke but if you idle for a few mins here comes the smoke
@@bikerboyvideos6147 I'm out on a limb here as I am not 100% sure of the valve stem sealing type in our engines - yet. Oil an leak into the combustion chamber(s) on an idling engine, going down through the valve guides - and then when you hit the throttle, it willl smoke somewhat heavily for a few moments. How's the oil consumption? BTW ---> I do not suspect an oil over filled situation here.
Great , video 😊
Seem very knowledgeable about this engine.
Thanks for the lesson
Thanks for your comment. It means a lot.
Ok. I'm a newbie to car stuff I admit. How do you take that L hose off? Do u just pull the top part of it down until it slides off that rod thing? I'm sure I'm looking at the correct tube, I just don't know how to unhook it so I can pour stuff in..
I tend to not bother with taking the hose off the plastic nipple and instead remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube.
...... The metal tube is what you're after here - in some situations it's easier to take it off the top nipple - some it's easier from the lower nipple.
..... You want to get the B12 into the tube, not necessarily the hose - but if you get it into the tube, it'll naturally run down into where we want it to go anyway.
..... That big rubber hose is never gonna plug up without someone pouring JB Weld in it - and the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.
Great video by the way.
I just had a melt down of my engine relay fuse box. Fan and headlight relays green group oxidation from all the humidity and rain. 270 K 2005.
That's never a fun-job. Prayers sent. Done & done.
OK I must have forgotten to connect that S hose from the fresh air intake into the metal nipple. So since the L hose on the CV side (crankcase ventilation) is IMPOSSIBLE to get at - I got a straw inserted into the Acetone Spray CRC - and I filled as much as possible into the metal nipple on the S hose side - with the S hose off. Do you think that will then flow down into the CV metal nipple into the Crankcase? Then I connected the S hose back onto the nipple - as it had been disconnected for the past six months or so - No wonder I got such terrible mileage in the winter - the air was sucking in from that S hose as a cold air intake!!? haha. The fact that OIL was spraying out of that S Hose then PROVES that the L hose metal nipple is blocked? Or did the oil spray out of the S hose because of the LACK of negative pressure since the S hose was disconnected? thanks
Actually, the "S" hose and the "L" hose are miles apart in function and they are not really related except they are on the same engine and are working to correct the emissions that every engine creates --- not counting two-cycle engines though. .
Let me clarify that --- the PCV system consists of both a KV (atmospheric pressure side) and a CV side that is under full plenum vacuum at all times, but not like in the Olden Days.
The CV side goes directly to the intake runners for each cylinder where the vacuum is created by that particular cylinder's intake stroke that pulls air through the throttle body at the same time as it inhales the vapors from the crankcase.
Complicated? Just a bit! Mostly it's complicated by the fact that there's no real dedicated vacuum control valve --- commonly called: “The PCV Valve” --- but that's redundant.
Of course, there's a lot more to this simplified assessment than I have written here.
@@SurferJoe46 Thanks for the clarification again Joe - yeah I had the air blasting out of that hole when I took the bottom end of the L hose off. So I figured it was already cleared out. I've been good at changing the oil every 3K and also have used MMO in the crankcase. So... anyway - I did put acetone in that hole - just a capful of the the B12 Berryman.... I put the rest into the fuel tank. My MpG went up a mile !! So that B12 Berryman is the best for cleaning out the fuel. Thanks again for the help - kind of exciting that I get better mileage now more than ever at 270K miles. If I got 55 miles per hour then I can get 24 mpg. Not bad.
Mr. Vreeland, first I wanted to say thank you for this video & all of your invaluable information on TrailVoy! I have to DIY my 08 Trailblazer 4.2 quite a bit & I am no mechanic, but with research & such helpful posts & videos on the ol' interwebs such as yours, I've been more successful at my undertakings than not! Additionally you are hilarious in your writing style. I also have a question, I grabbed a can of the spray Berryman's B-12 after seeing the thread on TrailVoy this morning, after further research, I see I need the liquid, not the aerosol; is it the fuel treatment or something else? Thanks in advance!
Berryman's B12 comes in both spray and liquid and it is the fuel treatment - among other things (like paint removal and making your hands dry and chapped).
"Style" is sometimes underappreciated - although I like the Archie & Mehitabel (donmarquis.com/archy-and-mehitabel/) literary style --- (but I can use capitols and Carriage Return on my old IBM Selectronic) --- however I'm somewhat more stylistically reminiscent of somewhere between Suzuki Beane and H*Y*M*A*N* K*A*P*L*A*N with a little Victor Borge thrown in for balance.
@@SurferJoe46 The mix is superb. I dig it, sir.
Are you putting the capful on vacuum side (driver side hose) or atmospheric one side? That was not clear to me. Thanks.
The hose, really, has a top and a bottom and is hollow and one side goes to the plenum after the throttle plate and the other goes to the intake runners, just before the intake valves. It's really the same thing, just it's a lot easier to pour liquids DOWN into a hose than pouring them UP a hose.
Gravity sux.
Thanks for the vid . All meat no fat. Very helpfull.
What part did you talk about p*** that cleaner into? the hose on the top on the left of the sparkplugs underneath the cover goes to or to the hose on the right next to the computer thing. And this is my first time working on a engine or on my04 Envoy
The hose to which I am pointing at 01:57 & 02:40.
Great explanation! I was confused why there were 2 pcv hoses and I couldn't find an answer anywhere else
Glad to help. I shouldda made a better quality vid, but I was in a great big hurry and got it out without editing it at all.
So you take the top clamp off the hose on the negative vacuum side? Poor the cap in the hose?(with car on or off)? Also wanted to know if anything will leak out when taking hose off? Edit: so I read other comments. I now know where to pour the b-12 . I just wanted to know if anything will pour out. It's an air hose only correct?
Just to make sure sequence to do this should be.
1- car off (preferably warm),
2-take hose off metal tube.
3-pour cap in
4- put hose back on
5 start vehicle and run
6 repeat from step one a few times?
Yeah --- you've got it.
>> You can actually take the hose off if the engine's running and it will stumble a bit and catch itself and steady up after a few moments. The throttle will need to close a lot further than normal and it may be dirty - but mostly the motor can overcome any soft contamination.
>> Still - it's best to turn the engine off and pour the B12 in and just slip the hose back on without the clamp if you want to do this a few times, trying to get a better dose into the system.
>> repeat until you either get some results or you get tired.
>> I used my compressor with a long tipped blower nozzle to force a lot of air into the lower portion of the system --- the metal part --- and just blew through the clogged up gunk --- but it takes a little effort after pre-softening the crud with the B12.
>> Put the clamp back on before you decide to drive away though .... OK?
Will do, thanks. I appreciate it a lot. Not a lot of info around about this.
I wish I could shake your hand and thank you for making this video Sir! Only question I have is how did you go about getting to the bottom end of the hose that connects to the intake manifold (the one for the crank case). Did you go in from the engine bay or from underneath the trailblazer to disconnect the bottom end of it? Hope you’re doing well.
All access as we need it is over the driver's side left fender.
If you can't get the lower clamp off --- just pour the Berryman's Chemtool B-12 directly into the rubber hose when/if you get it off from the top clamp and plastic nipple.
Thankfully --- on plastic --- the hose will be much easier to release and pull off because it won't create corrosion and make it hard to remove. Plastic and rubber don't really like each other anyway --- so they're happy to be bisected from each other.
@@SurferJoe46 thank you Sir. Hope you have a great day.
Im doing my timing chain completely all parts , having a blast taking everything off to get to the parts. I have noticed that there is a load of gunk everywhere in the engine. Could that be cause of a plugged pcv system also?? Also what is the fluid that would be great to clean the pcv system??
That coul;d do it, sure enough! I use Berryman's Chemtool liquid or spray.
good afternoon friend. Can you tell me in which direction the PCV lab valve is placed?
OK --- there is no "valve" as you are thinking. it has no variable orface ... the vacuum is controlled by the MAP sensor in the plenum, right after the throttle plate. If the vacuum goes too low in the plenum, the ECM will not allow the throttle to open too much.
It's kinda complicated to explain and I'm working on a video to explain it - that's gonna take a little bit to edit as that's going to be my first video editing project.
Normally I just turn on the camera and let things just happen as they will.
I put the boroscope inside the air silencer intake box - I definitely saw a streak of oil - so some got in there for sure. So then I sprayed in throttle body cleaner and let it soak in. I washed it into a bucket with the power spray of water - not much oil at all! I did this a second time - to make sure I cleaned out the oil - still hardly any oil came out. So whatever blowby positive pressure was minimal - maybe it got clogged briefly but I don't think it's been a serious problem at all. I just can't justify pulling off that "dirty hose" PVC to clean out the port. Since if anything goes wrong with getting the hose back on then I'm in deep doodoo. haha. I have the tools and part now though in case it does start to clog.
What. Are. You. Talking. About?
You are afraid to take a hose off because you're afraid? Of what?
What can go wrong with putting it back on? This is done countless times on hoses all over the auto repair world!
"Clogged briefly" isn't even possible.
Just watch the video and do what it says --- you will succeed --- somehow.
@@SurferJoe46 OK I'll use the other car to get B12 and go to it! haha. thanks
@@SurferJoe46 OK that "clamp" on the new PVC hose does NOT do anything. It's there just to have something to grab onto to pull the hose off. OK I'll go buy some B12 now and then pull off the old hose. haha. I'll warm the car up first idling and then pull the hose off and the pour in the B12. Thanks for the inspiration.
Can you tell me where, the air intake temp sensor location is
Just for clarity. My hose, on the top of the long side of the L shaped hose, where it connects to the intake plastic plemium, has no clamp, its just slides on on mine. On the bottom where the short L connects to the crankcase via in metal intake manifold there is a clamp. The hose is so baked I question whether I can slide the hose down off the plemium (the hose would have to kink a bit) without first unclamping the bottom and pulling it out off the IM/crankcase fitting. From your post, I am assuming the clogged end is the crankcase, short L, end? Am I suppose to side the top down off the Plemium, leave the bottom connected, and pour some cleaner in the top of the hose so it can sit in the bottom of the hose and soak the opening into the crank? Is this correct? You mentioned that the B12 wouldn't mix with the oil....so am I correct in assuming that the passage into the case that is being cleaned runs up hill before it is exposed to clear air inside the crank. Finally, do I also need to squirt the b12 up into the plastic plemium fitting, ie does the top clog as well? TIA (using my wifes youtube)
yeah he wasn't really clear on how to clean it out - so left us wondering - unless someone is a real expert. haha. I look forward to the answer. thanks - below he answers it: I tend to not bother with taking the hose off the plastic nipple and instead remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube.
...... The metal tube is what you're after here - in some situations it's easier to take it off the top nipple - some it's easier from the lower nipple.
..... You want to get the B12 into the tube, not necessarily the hose - but if you get it into the tube, it'll naturally run down into where we want it to go anyway.
..... That big rubber hose is never gonna plug up without someone pouring JB Weld in it - and the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.
Ewe awaawswawswawaswawawswawawawa
Both of the hoses for the pcv system can get clogged and create the same scenario. The hose that is connected to the air plenum does not need to be clamped. It is designed to not need one. You can use carbon cleaner/brake cleaner instead of B12 as long as you clean it out really good and let it dry before putting back together. Just as long as you don't leave a " pond " inside the plenum the air from the vacuum will evaporate the rest. The other hose from the air intake can be quite brittle after time. If you feel it and can't pinch it to check flexibility then I suggest buying some from the auto store. I like to just blow air in into the hose from a compressor. That one should have clamps on both ends of that hose. The air plenum is usually the one to be clogged. I check mines after every oil change. But be careful with the opening on the air plenum that connects to the hose. Those have broke on plenty of people and either replaced it or jb welded it back together
You got it correct. You can pour the B12 into the rubber(stiff/old) hose or into the lower metal nipple that turns 90 degrees into the area near the actual headgasket. Either place is ok ... it'll get there somehow. B12 has mighty strong vapors --- I wouldn't smoke or be eating a sandwich at the same time --- although i've ingested a lot of B12 over the years and it nebber bO7he-e-e-e-e-e-e-red me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If this is the problem will it cause stalling a idle? once mine gets up to running temp it stalls at idle? i do have oil coming into my air intake box! Was thinking head gasket just not sure i do not get any codes. I wish i could just turn the idle up! lol Also i have a new pcv valve coming that is on the valve cover any thoughts on how that will come out without breaking and going in the valve cover?
1. There is no PCV valve. You cannot buy one - nor does one exist --- but I guess some unscrupulous persons might sell you one.
2. Oil in the box is because of positive pressure in the crankcase because the PCV is not working.
3. Stalling after warm-up can be from the MAF or BMAP not sending valid metrics to the engine management system (PCM)
4. Bad metrics from the BMAP or MAP is because the PCV is not working.
5. Idle speed is baked-into the computer - it is not adjustable - don't even try.
6. Don't lower the river, raise the bridge by fixing the obvious problem first.
This is the problem Im having take apart half engine replacing EGR valve 07 4.2 and cleaning up all the gunk.
The Atlas/Vort4ex 4.2 does NOT have an EGR; it has VVT and it is therefor exempt of needing the EGR.
Just curious... if you block-off the PCV hole at the intake, and just vent the PCV hose into the atmosphere, would that eliminate any adverse effects from the PCV system without negatively effecting engine performance? I understand it would vent unburned blow-by gasses into the atmosphere, but this is just a hypothetical question. Also, why not route the PCV into, say, the purge system. The pressure from blow-by would positively pressurize the fuel system and serve as a fuel pump assist. Any over-pressurization could then be vented by the purge valve? 🤔
1st --- the fuel system in the tank is under vacuum. If you pressurize it --- here come the flying monkeys.
2. If you do not promote or at least maintain a vacuum in the crankcase, condensate builds up rapidly and gets homogenized into the oil and destroys the bearings, is especially nasty to the cam and followers and will rust the VVT into an inconvenient place that'll throw codes all day long.
@@SurferJoe46 I never cared for flying monkeys. Thanks for the reply, I guess I won't reengineer my PCV system after all. 👍🏻
Thank you. Exactly what I needed
What’s the hard plastic line coming out of the opposite side of the vortec box
The green hose? The black hose?... give me a hint.
Can I do this with Berrymans carb and throttle body cleaner?
You CAN --- but since it sprays it is going to be wasteful - a bit.
I have plenty of vacuum from the top nipple on the valve cover. I’m not feeling much from the dipstick tube. I’m a bit worried because I just replaced the valve cover gaskets. Every gasket around the coils failed and was full of oil. I really don’t want to do that job again. 05 trailblazer with the same motor. Any suggestions? Thanks for the vid.
Vacuum at the dipstick may be next to impossible to feel --- perhaps a vacuum gauge would see it though.
The inside of the engine should be under a negative value (no pressure --- good amount of vacuum) all the time and it is especially noticeable at idle 'cause you can get to it whilst the engine is running.
Keeping a good vacuum metric is only possible if the system's working properly. When there's no vacuum is when things start to leak or seep oil. I'd say you should be in a pretty good place if you can get good vacuum in the engine crankcase.
Can any other product aside from B12 be use? example: any other fuel/injector cleaner?. Thank you in advance
Remember this isn't clraning the injectors or fuel system; it's trying to dissolve caked and baked on crud and deposits from years of neglect.
I understand that Chevron Techron is another good solvent, but I've never used it. B12 I know; others not much at all.
I can't get b12- would a carb cleaner work?
You have to warm up the engine, fill up the tube and connect the tube and let it sit for 30 min. Turn over the engine and let it warm up again and do it again. I did mine four times and then it worked great the first time. If it still doesn't work then check your throttle body, air sensor map, and clutch position sensor.
Most carb cleaners are not as aggressive as B12. It may take more 1. cleaner, 2. patience, 3. money t get the same results.
It can't help --- but if it will help enuff --- I got nuttin'.
so where do the fuel pressure regulator hose now go to??? 1:46
If you mean that you think there should be a return hose --- well, GM did away with it.
Could a blockage in this system, especially on the intake side, cause a PO171 code?
☼ I think not because ---> for a P0171 problem code to come from the PCV system, the AFR is significantly lean ---- and there's not really any way the CV-side of the PCV could cause that unless the hose was either badly damaged or totally missing. .............. a P0171 means the PCM is detecting the engine is receiving too much air and not enough fuel.
☼ That would be a gross leak which I think might be so-o-o out-of-range for the computer to handle ... you should get a flashing SEL and perhaps a small hammer would pop out of the the headrest whacking the driver in the head to get his attention.
☼ A P0171 code is set by your vehicle's powertrain control module (PCM) when it detects that the air-to-fuel ratio of your vehicle is too lean ... make that "very lean" if this were to be what happened.
@@SurferJoe46 Thank you for your response. I think I've figured it out. I'm thinking it is a small exhaust leak causing the code. I'll find out soon enough. Regardless, thank you for sharing this video. It makes a lot of sense and is something I would have never known had you not shared it. My Trailblazer is not drawing a vacuum at the dipstick so it will be getting your Berrman's treatment some day soon. But first, this Check Engine Light.
What did it wind up being?
@@altarwork My Trailblazer did not like the new MAF sensor I had put in it. Or it was defective. Or it just took some time for the ECU to figure things out after I fixed all of the leaks on the intake side. Honestly, I’m not really sure. The fuel trims were very high. After running multiple times with the old MAF in it the trims finally settled down to be within the ECUs tolerance. Then it stopped throwing the code. I haven’t tried putting the new MAF sensor back in. I’d bet it works now. I think the ECU just took some time to figure things out.
Hello , I just just sprayed out my Hose like you said and had air into manifold hose and Air coming back out from my left side vent hose , but im not getting a Vacuum on my Oil stick what could else be plugged up ?
I'm not clear on what you mean by "spraying" as I never said to use the spray version of B12; use the LIQUID version and pour some into the hose, reattach the hose, start the engine after a short time.
Are you sure you have air coming out the left side hose? I ask because you are supposed to pour liquid B12 into the left hose.
Remember --- the left side of the engine is the driver's side as if you are sitting in the car sitting behind the wheel.
The only thing that will restrict the air flow is that the passageways inside the head intake runners --- are full of hardened gunk. It may take several --- many --- a lot of treatments to get it to start working if it's never been cleaned or kept clean for years by now.
Make sure the engine's up to normal temperature before you put the B12 into the hose --- and let it sit because the vapors are very aggressive if you let it boil for a bit. Repeat at least a few times - weekly if possible until things start getting cleaner and cleaner. .
Huh what I meant Sprayed I used Carburator Cleaner and the used an Air Hose when I did the Air spray Air came out the other PVC hose on the right side of Motor PVC but still no Vacuum on my Oil Stick , P0171 code and P030 O2 sensor code something seems Plugged up still in Motor > You think it could be the Head Intake runners , I did Add some Rislone to clean Motor and used some Fuel cleaner .@@SurferJoe46
@@lassiejr2115 I'm still confused. There is NO PCV hose on the right side of the "motor" as you put it.
There IS a KV hose - the short "S-shaped" hose that goes between the air-sound deadening chamber and the valve cover however.
Is this the "PCV" hose to which you are erroneously referring?
"Carberetor spray" is not the correct liquid to use. Specifically, I said: "Berryman's B-12" is correct as it is very much more aggressive than other chemicals in this application.
You state that "something seems plugged up still in (the) motor" and I cannot reason how you came to that idea because the P0171 means you have a Fuel Trim System Lean condition in Bank 1--- and no way can a defective/inoperative PCV system cause that.
Your P0303 is also NOT caused by a defective/inoperative PCV system.
FYI --> P0303 indicates a problem in #3 cylinder --- but it is not suggesting any cure or deeper diagnosis in that cylinder --- it just says there is something wrong in how #3 cylinder is performing --- and that may actually be a red herring too.
P0303 is not a malfunction from a bad/ineffective PCV system --- it is related to only one cylinder and the PCV system involves ALL cylinders and cannot just pick on one or two ----
You are in over your head I think and are not categorically NOT following my instructions and you are making wild a$$ assumptions that are not logical nor part of helping the PCV to return to a good working condition.
These codes are another problem entirely NOT related to the PCV system,
@@lassiejr2115 DANGER ---> Using Rislone or any other magic-in-a-can cleaners or additives is totally counterindicated for this engine.
This engine needs FLOW, not pressure as it meters the oil to the many zones it is needed and adding something that cleans and changes the viscosity of the oil can be extremely damaging to this engine.
Stop using these chemicals in the crankcase! You are harming your engine.
Thks for your advice >@@SurferJoe46
Good evening... my Trailblazer is getting my spark plugs wet from the top through the coils, what would be the solution?
The solution may be multi-fold in that, ultimately the oil on the tops of the plugs - and this means inside the sparkplug wells machined into the head - comes from the valve cover gasket failing to hold the oil inside the top of the engine.
That said ---> there's a reason WHY it's happening and this leak is not really "typical" unless something else is working on it to cause it to fail -- talking about the valve cover gasket.
1. Pressure is not supposed to exist inside the valve cover --- also not in the crankcase by inclusion.
2. The biggest problem is failure to service the crankcase ventillation system, and that's what my video was all about.
3. The whole inside of the engine - the crankcase, by common name - is supposed to be under at least SOME vacuum at all times.
4. View the video and see what other people have had for their experiences and see if you can find how you can help your engine to not leak.
Find the cause and fix the problem.
Could adding a catch can to that hose help?
I answered this before ...... if you do that, you won't get full throttle. The BMAP/map sensor will be starved for the correct metrics.
Quick question. Is there anything down the hole of the upper hose? This one has a spring assembly but no internals. A pocket screwdriver goes straight down. It also whistles while on idle
I have nothing but blackness looking down that standpipe ... there is no mechanism about which to worry - it's just a direct passage to the intake runners that will carry fumes and vapors from the crankcase when the engine's running - that's all.
the 2004 trailblazer truck has a pcv valve where it goes
What engine? The 5.3 MAY have an active PC valve --- this I do not know as I am trying to help with the 4.2 Atlas Engine only.
What is the stuff you used to clean the vent hose out i couldn't make out what u said
Berryman's B-12. You might want to use the spray version if you like.
While changing my air filter in my 04 trailblazer I noticed what looks like a bypass of the air filter air, seems very odd. Open air box, remove filter look as far forward as you can (toward front of car) is this really bypassing air filter w dirty air?
I'll have to look ... but off the top I say not likely. The liabilities of damaging an engine would be countered by a lot of lawsuits.
I cracked the hose. It was hard and brittle. How can I get another? What’s it called? Thanks? 2003 4.2 with 270,000 miles
"The" formed hose is not likely available --- but it is easy enough to buy some bulk CV hose at your local auto parts.
Remember that all hoses that are in the PCV/KV/CV/AIR Injection system(s) even if you don't have all of those I just mentioned --- will have hose that is measured in 32ds of an inch.
Examples ---> 15/32", 11/32", 9/32", 5/32" ... etc.
This was to keep people from replacing the correct hose for a piece of garden hose. The reason is that garden hose will melt whereas real emission-type hose will not.
Great knowledge thank you sir!
You bet! Estoy a tu servicio.
Boss, how can I make this adaptation for me TrailBlazer a couple of days ago there was an explosion due to the oil spring, hopefully it will reply to the message, regards, Boss
"Oil spring"? Where is this thing to which you post? I don't recognize the question nor where a spring would be in the oil-areas.
OK, I'm going to sound like an idiot since I've never used this additive. So I want to be sure before I screw something up. You are using "Berryman B-12 Chemtool Carburetor, Fuel System cleaner" as a solvent for the crankcase ventilation tube? It makes sense but I want to be sure. I cleaned my Throttle Body today and I'm surprised the car ran at all, it was filthy. I don't think it's ever been cleaned and my 2008 TB has 150K on the clock. There was a light coating of oil in the intake plenum. If this is the right stuff I'm going shopping for next weekends project.
That oil is from the PCV system not working up to standards. If it is working, the flow will never enter the plenum or throttle body butterfly. There should ONLY be cleaned air - after the air filter - going through the throttle body - nothing else.
The question I see a lot is "Do it have a PVC value"? And I guess it's no.
Correct. It doesn't.
What the hell did he do to the hose they filmed above it
Thanks for the great video! My hose does not have a top clamp it looks like the bottom does. Also while hose is rock hard so I’m unable to get it off. Any idea on how I could get it off without braking anything?
The hose is easily available in bulk at most auto parts houses .... they will cut it as long or short as you need.
Clamps? Well --- with a new hose maybe not --- but the factory has a policy to clamp almost everything and that's not a bad thing.
PS ---> buy the new piece of hose before you damage the old one.
That's all well and good but where is the PCV valve isn't that supposed to keep all the oils out of the intake
That's the greatest part of this video --- there is no valve. The video explains all that if you watch to the end.
@@SurferJoe46 yeah but in the long run it coats the whole inside of your intake coach your throttle position sensor and the air valve that's their I can't think of the initials for it.. I'm talking about the valve/sensor controls your idol. I just cleaned a 2004 intake out that had that exact problem. It had a hole coat of like varnish inside the plastic intake and into the plum that's where I stopped and I'm sure there was more. I'm sure it made the valve train sluggish and all
@@markthrush2139 You realize, don't you, that there's not supposed to be anything but clean air going through that throttle body - right?
If you're getting a varnish build up, it's coming through a K&N filter or there's a leak inside the clean air side of the filtered air-through the plenum.
At NO time is there supposed to be any oil that might form the "varnish" you mention unless it's coming from the inoperative PCV ---> it's not working and the fumes are going backward into the plenum.
I’m have 2006 trailblazer 4.2 LS in limp mode with a P0300 Can’t seem to figure it out does spark plugs coils crank/cam sensor any ideas?
2 things that can cause limp mode. The gas pedal sensor goes bad or the fan clutch sensor is bad. I used a $40 dollar scanner
I am currently of the opinion that a P0300 is a red herring (false flag) that can keep people changing coils, injectors and plugs for eternity.
There are actually quite a few things that can cause the P0300 and they are not truly related to anything going on in the combustion chambers.
I have begun writing about it in the TrailVoy website. ( www.trailvoy.com/ )
Would seafoam be safe for this job also? And thank you for your great video!
Seafoam is not aggressive enough to clean these passageways ----- it is really just the equivalent of green soap that was used in lavatories in grammar schools when I was a kid. I had an industrial chemist tell me that and I have no reason to doubt him.
Seafoam won't harm your vehicle paint, but I'm not too sure your paint would be safe with B-12 on it.
@@SurferJoe46 I notice 2x 8mm or so bolts in there can I remove an replace this part? or does the whole plenum require removal also. In anycase, i'll have to purchase the B12 online.. Canadians have no good products for sale :P such as B12 unless you could recommend something of the sort. I have zero vacuum from the oil dipstick also. I've read a few posts in here but to keep it simple I'm focusing on the port on the bottom that has almost no vacuum? the top one has great suction. Or both would be beneficial?
Down on the right side of the engine is that where I add the solution in that hose?
The left side really... all directions on a vehicle are as viewed from the driver's seat.
Wow my S hose is TAKEN OFF the negative pressure intake as you state, "that goes INTO the valve cover" - so did a mechanic do that ON PURPOSE!! To stop the throttle body from getting dirty? I have oil sprayed OUT of that S hose!!! Holy smokes. I was wondering why that oil was there. haha. How bad is it that the pressure is now POSITIVE and shooting out of that S hose - the extra oil? (besides the fact that it's probably illegal).
For the system to work correctly, reconnect the "s" hose and service the BIG HOSE side of it with the B-12 treatment a few times.
EVENTUALLY it'll clean out at least some, anyway!
Your "mechanic" has no understanding of the way it works, that's why he disconnected it.
PRESSURE in the PCV system is a clue as to the same pressure in the crankcase. It's all related and the problem is that the PCV CV-side of the system has been unserviced for a long time.
YOUR job is to now get it working - at least a little bit - as every treatment of B-12 will improve it until all 6 ports are pulling a vacuum in the crankcase.
@@SurferJoe46 OK thanks for the response Joe. How did you pour the B12 into the crankcase port? Did you just use a funnel? One person on the forum mentioned attaching a 1/2 inch heater hose that is 2 feet long and then putting the funnel into that hose - to pour the B12 into the port. Is it necessary? Or do I need a special type of funnel?
Yesterday I put a boroscope into the air silencer box and I did see some oil streaks. So then I sprayed in acetone and let it sit and then power washed water into the air box - but seriously barely any oil came out air box. I did that twice and there was next to no oil coming out of the air box.
So I have done oil changes at 3K for the TB for pretty much the whole 257K miles. I think I went to 5K once or twice. So I'm really not sure if that PVC port ever clogged up. So you're saying that there's no risk - that the B12 at a capful at a time will be fine into the crankcase intake channels even if it's not clogged up? .. That "port" goes into some kind of intake channels that then go into the crankcase?
I just got the new L "dirty hose" PVC part that is flexible. It's difficult to SEE the negative pressure crankcase port and the upper intake manifold nipple - I got hose pliers to take off the old hose. I used a boroscope - so I could see the "spring clamp" on the bottom of the hose at the crankcase port connection. I didn't ask any mechanic to do this - but maybe I should.
Did you use the Liesle Hose Removal Pliers? It seems like those would not fit into that space. I ordered those just in case they might help. People talked about the old PVC hose being brittle and baked on.
I just want to make sure I can get the NEW PVC "L dirty" negative vacuum hose back on since obviously it's required to run the engine - for the proper negative pressure, etc. before i take off the old one.
Yeah I actually need to get the B12 still - my car is now vibrating from new rear coil springs and struts - so I need the wheels balanced and an alignment - that is scheduled for Wednesday. I'm trying not to drive till then just to make sure I don't damage the CV joints - because the new rear coil springs raised my TB up two more inches. I have a 9 inch ground clearance now.
My hose that's under the cover that leads into the nipple it's ripped and leaking oil thru there I can't find a specific name for that hose to buy a new one can u help naming it ?
You'll get blank stares if you ask for what it's supposed to be called: KV Hose.
That it's leaking oil is a bad thing - it proves the system isn't working because there's never supposed to be any oil there - not in the hose or the nipple or the sound chamber or the throttle body.
When I take the L shaped hose off on the vaccum side, do I take it off from the bottom or the top ? I tried to pull it from the top and it didn’t seem like it wanted to come off. Also is the metal tube in the hose itself or is it at the top or the bottom ?
Either way. You just have to get the B12 into that circuit - it'll run down and soften the deposits.
@@SurferJoe46 My S hose bottom end is OFF and disconnected! And there's oil sprayed around that area. So that must mean the pressure built up to blow it off? Or did some mechanic remove it you think? How bad it is to run the engine with that disconnected? I've probably ran it that way a long time. haha. I removed and cleaned the throttle body but I don't think I forgot to connect that hose? I'll check the instructions of throttle body cleaning - I don't think it required disconnecting that S hose.... hmm.
Thank so much for the video. This system is more like the European vehicles no actual pcv but a system. Ps the Egr in this vehicle is control by the camshaft facer.
Sorry to be so late in responding, but I just caught this and as a matter of fact, this engine has NO EGR system - and that's because of the exhaust cam being variable and can keep the combustion chamber(s) from exceeding stoichiometric values.
@@SurferJoe46 /ˌstoikēōˈmetrik/ relating to or denoting quantities of reactants in simple integral ratios, as prescribed by an equation or formula.
"a stoichiometric amount of potassium is required for 90% removal of the SO"
wow - fancy word - thanks
I found the forum threads that this vid goes to - if the forum threads had been linked - or if you link them in the vid description - that will clarify things for anyone who discovers your vid on youtube and not via some obscure forum thread. haha. UA-cam has algorithms so most people are gonna find this vid on their own and not via the thread. thanks
So what do I need to change to stop the oil from coming up
Did you watch the video? I explained it all.
Great video
Mine doesn't have pcv valve. And it gets oil in that box. I have to clean the throttle body often
None of them have a PCV-valve. There is no actual part you can change. Oil in the box means you're collecting water in the engine - in the crankcase and it will destroy the VVT actuator and can destroy the cam and/or cam followers, not to mention the rod and main bearings.
Failure to keep the PCV system that this engine DOES have - is dangerous to a lot of things inside the engine that should never see condensed water.
You should never have to clean that throttle body from oil - all that is SUPPOSED to go through the throttle body is filtered air.
@@SurferJoe46 Then what you fix to stop it?
@@fernesal Did you even watch the video? I tell how to service it and what to expect when its operating correctly.
@@SurferJoe46 I understand better when written. It's hard to catch different accents. I'm sorry.
@@fernesal Not immediately --- it takes repetitive applications to finally get it to working better each time.
You MAY see results immediately (don't count on it) --- but if you persevere, you'll get it eventually.
Too much Information, Thanks for the video
I was wanting to replace the hoses because mine are really hard. I feel like if I try to bend it to pour the cap in it. It will break. Any idea what size the hose is? The elbow one on intake side. Not the s one on the resonator. I appreciate it.
I have part numbers if you want them. Can buy online.
Sorry I just noticed this question .... and no ... I haven't measured the hose. Strange that it got hard; PCV, KV, CV, et al hoses are usually made out of better than just heater hoses.
If I were to make a guess, the dimension would be in 32nds of an inch with an uneven number on top .... 11/32 or 21/32 or something like that ... to differentiate emission hose from coolant or fuel hose. That's always been an industry-wide standard for LEGAL factory vapor hoses on engines for a long time.
Another interesting thing is that those hoses also had a green stripe running on them to make it obvious it was a crankcase vent hose of some kind ... this may not still be an identifying mark though as I don't remember seeing it here.
@@SurferJoe46 thank you, the top of the positive crank ventilation hose. Is cracked and mine doesnt even have the clamp on it. I ordered a new hose for both sides. And different size clamp set. Also a long pipe cleaner. I'll try doing this. But nothing has helped so far. My idle is still dropping. Idk what it could be besides a leak now. I'm gonna probably have to go get it smoke tested
I just ordered both hoses off rock auto... They are really good about sending vehicle specific parts.
@@paulhawkins1460 I found them on amazon, I got the right one but the positive side is so hard to take clamp off. I just put a clamp on the old hose on the top part to make sure there's no air getting in. Until I have a day to mess around with it. I need to get a little baby pair of pliers or small needle noses
Yeah, that was cool
Never actually showed where the PCV valve is, only the hoses
That's right. There IS NO PC Valve. That's the whole point of this video ... it doesn't exist so you have to treat the system somewhat differently.
I kinda lose you when you’re talking about removing the gunk. Could you go through the motions of doing so. We’ve got an easy 235k on our 06 and suspect we may need a DNC, DUSTING N CLEANING inside there. Great video. Thank you. Steve, Plymouth MA
The only thing you can do short of removing the head is to clean, clean and clean some more with the B-12 to soften up and let the gunk get sucked into the hellish fire of the combustion chamber. Use the B-12 as many times as you feel or desire - just remember that there's not "complete cure" to the systems if they've been ignored for years.
You can clean it - mostly, not 100%.
So why not a viewable pcv filter to stop all that
I THINK I understand your comment --- but do you want ME to provide something more tangible? "Filtering" the vapors isn't a problem --- it's not even wanted because that's not even a good idea and it just adds another layer of responsibility that owners can ignore too.
I honestly DO appreciate your comment and if you can give me a little more help in understanding your concern --- please re-post it here.
A viewable pvc filter could stop could stop the damage you described, and yes it might be neglected but even oil gets neglected but if you’re wondering what’s wrong with it any look and see the filter has oil in it you know there’s a problem there picking any type of debris that shouldn’t be
@@redxband1994 Aha! I see where you're at --- and I don't agree in theory although your intentions are good. What I THINK you want is something like the old bowtie KV fibrous strand filter in the air cleaner. That system is rather antique and there's the disposal of it when it gets full --- something a Federally regulated vehicle is not allowed to generate any more.
So since motor vehicles are ascribed to become cleaner and less polluting every new model year, a system that can maintains itself with scheduled oil changes and regular services is where things are going and the designers are told to keep the DIYer out of the control systems other than a steering wheel, a throttle and a brake.
@@SurferJoe46 exactly it could be one more thing to charge a customer to change but how big of a problem is oil in the pcv system . So why not a filter on the crank case vent ,I also have some questions I own a trailblazer 04 and having problems with idle
@@redxband1994 You keep saying "pcv system" and you've got to understand that any oil in the KV side is the indicator that the CV-side is not working and I don't see where the option to install a filter on the CV side is possible nor even feasible.
The KV side won't improve with a filter because there's never supposed to be any oil in it --- never. IF oil is flowing through the KV side and into the air/plenum of the intake - the system is running backwards which indicates a failure of the crankcase to be correctly cleaned and that's the problem.
Water collects in the engine and that's damaging and destroys the oils properties and the purpose of even having oil in the crankcase.
Polluted oil - contaminated with water is - on all levels - destructive.
Filter or not - and there's no way to filter the crankcase emissions because they would render any filter as plugged and useless in a few miles. You'd have to run alongside the vehicle changing filters as it went down the road.
That breather system destroyed the catalytic converters on my beater😄
On a 4.2? That's interesting because the 4.2 only has one cat.
@SurferJoe46 the 08 trailblazer had an updated longer exhaust, clogged up both of them, swapped them out with a cheap ebay special pipe and unplugged the upper sensor, purrs like a kitty now lol
so where is the PVC valve? you never show it.
There is none. That's the problem -- there's no valve to clean or replace.
FYI. Great video. Ty
I don’t fully understand how to clean that tube. I’m pulling out the intake and replacing the valve gasket, and noticed oil all in the air box. Can you explain more?
The air box (correctly called the "sound deadener chamber") getting baby poop in it is because your CV-side of the system is totally plugged up and is reverse flowing.
The flow is INTO the nipple - that goes INTO the valve cover and INTO the crankcase and INTO the vacuum side of the PCV system (the CV-side) and is burned up as fuel.
It's originally designed as an economy device but they found out it was sure nice to eat the sump gas fumes that smelled amazingly like an open sewer. .
You have to take that rubber hose off at the plenum and add a couple of capsfull of B12 into it and let it cook a while. Repeat often until you get a small but noticeable vacuum at the oil filler cap.
If you're removing the whole intake plenum and runners, you will have better access to the ports and you can clean them a lot better when they are in the open.
@@SurferJoe46 got it! I recently replaced my valve cover so I took the intake off anyways and cleaned that hose you’re talking about. I also installed an oil catch can at the nipple and sound deadened chamber and it’s already filtering crap.
@@TheCodesterr That's all well-n-good, but you're not getting the water out of your engine.
You need to get that PCV System flow working, not just catching the bad results.
The problem is not being addressed the way you've done it and you run the risk of rusting the VVT intro a seized-locked position.
Many people keep having trouble with the VVT and the PCV is the cause.
You've gotta fix the problem!
You can watch this guy - it's not EXACTLY your situation - but the results and the logic are the same ..ua-cam.com/video/PDkCbJOV-28/v-deo.html
@@TheCodesterr yes my S hose is disconnected at the nipple and oil has sprayed out around there - so either I disconnected it when taking out the throttle body - I don't think so - or a mechanic did it to "bypass" this problem of the positive pressure spray back. Crazy - and I've been driving this way for how long? !! So you're saying that now water condensation can get into the engine via that nipple? OH I get - because there's no longer NEGATIVE PRESSURE then water vapor is not getting OUT of the engine. Yeah.
@@TheCodesterr The hose is only a pathway to the problem --- which is in the head gasket area. Taking the intake off will not allow access to the actual ports that are considered as the major players of the passive PCV system.
When we pour B-12 in either the tube or the nipple - it goes to the same place to soften up and eventually allow the crud and corruption to be sucked out of those passageways.
When they are clean, the PCV will be able to work and there will be NO baby poop in the air intake system at all. None. Nada!
Well said sir!
I am consolidated
I am glad you got it all together.
I took the air box off and used a plastic long thin tie wrap and put it in the hole and once I felt the blockage less than a inch from the hole and worked the tie wrap gently until I felt the clog clear. I poured 1 cap of Berrymans B12 in the hole. Started the car. The problem is solved.
👍
You ate no help. How do you fix it?
you have to read all the comments to figure it out. Here you go: The air box (correctly called the "sound deadener chamber") getting baby poop in it is because your CV-side of the system is totally plugged up and is reverse flowing.The flow is INTO the nipple - that goes INTO the valve cover and INTO the crankcase and INTO the vacuum side of the PCV system (the CV-side) and is burned up as fuel. It's originally designed as an economy device but they found out it was sure nice to eat the sump gas fumes that smelled amazingly like an open sewer. .
remove the lower hose clamp and pull the hose up and open the metal tube.
You want to get the B12 into the tube the actual problem is further down inside that metal tube.
The liquid is going into the intake and won't contaminate the oil in the engine. It's a totally different system.
Persistence is the answer and it will get better and better with every application. You've gotta keep at it until you think it's really clean - evidenced by the vacuum at the oil filer when you put your hand over it while the engine's running.
You just have to get the B12 into that circuit - it'll run down and soften the deposits.
The problem is not being addressed the way you've done it and you run the risk of rusting the VVT intro a seized-locked position. Many people keep having trouble with the VVT and the PCV is the cause.
Just to make sure the sequence to do this should be.1- car off (preferably warm), 2-take hose off metal tube.3-pour cap in4- put hose back on5 start vehicle and run6 repeat from step one a few times?
Still - it's best to turn the engine off and pour the B12 in and just slip the hose back on without the clamp if you want to do this a few times, trying to get a better dose into the system.
I used my compressor with a long tipped blower nozzle to force a lot of air into the lower portion of the system --- the metal part --- and just blew through the clogged up gunk --- but it takes a little effort after pre-softening the crud with the B12. >> Put the clamp back on before you decide to drive away though .... OK?
SEe his other vid for more details - it is ultimately controlled by a sized-metered orifice on the valve cover, which INHALES clean air after the air cleaner, then allowing it to travel into the crankcase area of the engine block, sweeping away any blowby and byproducts of combustion - the worst of which is moisture in the form of condensate from the fuel combustion and the atmosphere.
The crankcase must remain in a negative pressure condition - a vacuum if you will ... at all times.
If oil/condensate rises from the valve cover nipple, then the suction side of the system is plugged up and is not operating to specs.
This emulsion will travel into the throttle body, contaminating it and then it requires repeated cleanings to make it operate correctly.
The CV side can be serviced though - even though it cannot be removed to access any way to actually clean it in your hands. We can chemically clean it - often in repeated treatments if the system has not been or has never been cleaned.
This video shows how to service the CV side and that should take care of the KV side too - since the KV side is really easy to access and poke a thin wire through the small-ish hole that serves as the limiter to how much air the system can 'inhale'.
PS --- don't use any hose clamps on the s-shaped hose. It has to have the ability to blow off it pressure gets too great .... which is should never.
Besides, the valve cover gasket will fail and fill up the spark plug tubes with oil if the pressure gets too high - long before anything actually overrides the capacity of the air flow.
What a stupid ass design. Thanks GM.
It works and if a modicum of service and oil changes are adhered to, then it will not need special attention.
No one really cared about everything that he went on about. It doesn't say how engine works. It says you're going to show the PCV valve location. Make another video for the rest
But I DID show where the PCV is --- it's nowhere!
The "V" part of PCV implicates that there's a valve somewhere in this labrynth system --- there is NOT.
It's just ports that never change dimensions nor flow capacities unless they are clogged up with gunk.
When they are clogged up --- baby poop happens.
YOU may not care --- but many do as I took a soft approach to a complicated and unreliable system that is rife with problems IF one does not keep it all clean.
My post is REPAIR-ITIVE, not a Maintenance Instruction.
If you came here --- obviously --- yours isn't working.