Saving a John Deere 1010 From The Scrap Heap.
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- Опубліковано 8 лют 2025
- The work necessary to get this thing functional again is long. Very long. In this video I address:
The reverser seal, the air filter, install the engine, install the thermostat, work on and install the generator, work on and install the starter, fix the primer pump, install the hydraulic pump, water pump, fuel tank, v-belt, and radiator. Fix the lower radiator hose. Start it for the first time since the engine rebuild. Troubleshoot the glow plugs. Fix the main high pressure hydraulic hose. Fix a second leaking hydraulic hose. Fix a broken hydraulic fitting...
...and there's still a lot more to do. Dammit Dora!! Next week we will get this thing out in the field driving around. I hope!
John Deere 1010 playlist: • Forgotten John Deere 1010
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I guess I'm not the only one with a perpetual content machine.
The robot content rules
Y’all could combine the two to make one Frankenstein to rule them all. While you’re at it you might as well put the robot tree eater in the pot too
squatch253 has a nice vid about cleaning up starters and generators
Why he doesn't have way more subscribers. He has good content and is very personable.
Wes we all collectively, gently bullied him into keeping it lol
I'm a girl. I have never worked on any kind of vehicle. In spite of that, this whole series has been so entertaining! I find myself looking forward to it!
Don't let being a girl stop you. My wife taught me to work on cars while we were dating.
I'm a boy. I didn't do anything mechanical until I was in my 40s. But I find it relaxing to watch some of these channels and rebuilt my first (small engine) carburetor last year. Old dogs meet new tricks.
My grandfather had 4 daughters. Of them, my mother was the one that took up the interest in mechanical things. The skills she learned as a kid greatly helped her later in life even though her career/hobbies never involved that kind of thing. It contributed greatly to her overall intelligence.. those problem solving skills are something that can be applied everywhere
Tracy have you ever seen the movie " My cousin Vinny" if not, you have got to watch it. You'll love it!!😃👍
That's OK Tracy, I live 100 miles from the sea, have never owned a boat but I like watching safe bar crossing techniques. I find them fascinating and in no time I'm a UA-cam expert in wave timing and boat handling when entering and leaving a marina that is on a river mouth emptying into surf even though I'm never going use it. Perhaps I died in a past life in bar crossing accident LOL.
Edit, in fact if you like this, Jon (this channel FarmCraft101) has a boom lift he bought for cheap. That machine from a viewer point of view was the gift that kept on giving. Unfortunately there isn't a Playlist for the whole machine but there is for the boom repair. To find the others your going to have to use the search function on this channel's homepage.
It's highly addictive and many many episodes were devoted to it. It was absolutely hilarious watching. This dozer repair is on the back of the boom lift for a lot of us.
There's even an episode where Jon rappels out of the raised basket when no one is at home (I can't say any more).
That starter needs a reward for best supporting actor or something!
Faced with a constant stream of roadblocks, your tolerance and patience is to be admired.
Watching you from Glasgow, Scotland. Your videos have some of the best content, sound, lighting, clarity, presentation and editing than any on UA-cam or indeed on network TV. Thank you for sharing your skills, your confidence and your enthusiasm.
I also hold Jesse Muller in high regard.
Dumfries, totally agree.
It's called America baby!!! Yahoo
Glasgow
Glasgow as well. 🙂 BTW @farmcraft101 - Do service the pump John. I was wondering why not do it in the first place but now have it out, service it. It will make a huge difference. Cheers
Love the fact you have not given up on it, it deserves a new life.
Not so sure. Looking at all the rocks and mud in the generator I wonder if someone already tried to drown or bury this machine. If that's the case, reviving it may bring back the monster someone else tried to keep from destroying the planet. I suggest. checking there aren't a bunch of wood stake like objects trying to stop this monster. 😉
As for naming - Dora / Pandora sound nice, Godzilla may be the better match.
I commented on the video where he got it to start for the first time that it has earned an engine overhaul, that it declared it was not yet dead.
John, when I have a key like the one in the generator, I grind it down and sand it smooth to get the back cover off. Then use the Dremel with the cutoff wheel and cut a slit in the middle of the key. Then I can use a punch to tap it side to side and it comes out. I love this series, good job!
It's called undercutting the commutator. 8 ohms is okay. A one wire alternator is cheap and easy replacement.
one of the best running youtube series. Let's get dora runniiing
Definitely, not only this series but it's also an excellent channel for mechanical stuff and other things. My other favorite for mechanical repairs is the also excellent Mustie1 channel.
Don’t forget Wes and Diesel Creek. Also struggling with machinery 👍😀
You need a battery with a high cold crancking amps rating.
You current battery gives high amps for a short while , heats up internal resistance goes up and output amps down
Yep, exactly this. The fast crank followed by slower crank has nothing to do with the starter and everything to do with the battery.
Yes you are right motors with glow plugsare hard on batteries.I put group 30 battery in my Luv pickup with 4 cyl diesel 1000 cold cranking amps.Battery is now 11 years old and still starts except in dead of winter.
I had a couple of IHC A554 tractors fitted with a 264cubic inch indirect injections fitted with glow plugs. The glow plugs took more juice out of the batteries (2 large 6V in series) than the starter. I got on better not using the glow plugs and using starting gas (although those tractors had an oil bath air cleaner.) My electrician warned me not to use a combination of gas and glow plug as the gas would cause the glow plug to burn out
I doubt it. Its a hard transition. Not gradual like it would be if it's a battery issue. In all these videos he's had the jump pack hooked up as well as the battery. The compact lithium jump pack usually only deliver power for a few seconds. The jump pack stops boosting after a few seconds and creates a very obvious slow down in the cranking speed.
I am deeply emotionally invested in this darn thing now. Thank you for seeing it through! My Friday afternoons are made better after watching your educated struggles.
Dremel with cutting disks gets those keys out the keyways really nice. 😊
Oh, that's a good idea!
That's funny. That's exactly what I was thinking I would try on it if it were me. But then again I'm pretty much a Dremel fanatic. I discovered the Dremel when I started building RC airplanes back in 1976. I don't know how many Dremels I've worn out since then but it's several. I keep 2 on hand now in case one breaks.
That's a trick to remember.
That last shot feels like something straight out of a horror movie 😂
No doubt, John is a natural at directing movies!!!
And how about that TV test symbol flashed after the woopsy?
I thought that was golden.
Nothing more satisfying then watching the lathe make metal look new
Next time for stubborn keys, weld an old flat head screwdriver to the key, use the flat head to pry off the key. Plus the heat will help. Also since you had the brushes off the brush wires, i’da tossed some heat shrink on the frayed brush wires.
You can also drill a hole and tap it and use a bolt to tap it out
John, my son and I were talking about you, we agreed that in the event of a zombie apocalypse, stranded on deserted island, a fox hole , or venturing across the US in a prairie schooner, we want your ass with us! Love your “engine-nuity!” and bailing wire thought process!
Yea he is better than McGiver
I always throw a second belt on the pump shaft and tie it off the the side. If one goes, you’d have a new one in place.
Great idea. I service some machines where there's an extra belt tucked away like that from the factory, since they aren't really made to be easily disassembled.
That's a really clever idea!
@@erik_dk842 On British Railway carriages with Vee belt driven alternators there is a full set of spare belts in the driving axle pulley because it's so expensive to fit a new belt. The clever bit is the retaining cover is coloured on one side only so when the spare belts are used the covers are put back the other way out so everybody knows there are no more belts !
@@gavinbishop2461 Foresighted motorcyclists going on longer trips install an additional throttle cable or clutch cable alongside the existing one, so they can avoid removing the tank if the cable breaks.
Ah yes! Your comment reminds me of
Paris in the
the Spring!
Sometimes you need to 'excite' a dynamo if it has not been used for a long time or the polarity has been changed.
I think you just connect voltage to the field, but I do not really remember so you will need to check.
No doubt other people have also said this. The unit may not be faulty and the regulator will also need checking.
You do great work, John.
It looks like a LUCAS dynamo.
When cleaning up a commutator, if you want to minimise the work, don’t use a cutting tool, use a file. If tooling is required, you need to undercut the segments. We made our own tools from grinding a hacksaw blade down then shaping a cutting ‘hook in the end. Sharpen the inner edge of the hook and drag it through the gap between the segments at a slight angle for a minor angular mitre is formed and weren’t copper removed.
As part of my employment in the 70s we had to surface grind and undercut commutators up to 10ft in diameter containing thousands of segments, in situ. 3 days for a small 8ft comm.
also did quite a few auto gens, starters and alternator rings, domestic electric appliances etc.
your generator would be functional with a bit more work & TLC.
Good work, I enjoy watching your successes and F/Us 😂
Cheers from downunder 👋👋👋
I love the ending scene. That's such a great representation of how this entire project is going.. don't worry though, every EVERY single project I get into is pretty much exactly the same, if not worse. Great job!
I love your editing. It makes me crazy to watch people that do real time mechanical repairs. You give enough to get an idea on how its done but don't make us suffer through the wrenching of every bolt. Someone suggested a one wire alternator and that was a good idea. They are cheap enough and you have enough fabrication skills to install one. Much less time than rebuilding an old generator. And testing any generator or alternator you have to have power to the stater or field windings. Regulator isn't necessary as long as you know how to full field the alternator/generator. As I watched your starter smoking I was reminded of my old Hoyt induction ammeter for checking starter amperage draw. Not the most sophisticated tool but sure saved me more than once. I didn't remember them being very expensive but damn man you can't find them online and they are damn expensive.
I owned a 1010 gas unit. It was an old township maintenance unit (front end loader with a 3 point on the back) from the town of Smithers BC. You have the same generator it had, and mine was flaking out too. I was able to directly replace it with (late 70's/early 80's) Chev alternator. I can't remember but I may have hat to modify the tension bracket a bit. By 1960 everything had already gone over to 12 volt negative ground so all of your electrics will work. The alternator had a built in regulator so all you had to do was have a small jumper from the battery output terminal on the alternator to the field terminal (make sure it it a keyed connection to the battery to prevent battery drain). Problem was solved and that unit started and continued to run flawlessly in a northern climate for years after.
Both you and Wes have commendable patience! Good job and keep going John.
Trick with that hydro hose protector stuff is to start winding it on the hose from the middle point of the hydro line. That way you aren’t fighting the entire length of protector. Nice work man!!
hope you're getting lots of views + adsense, because Pandora has become quite the money pit! 😬
as a forklift mechanic i gotta say, something i learned a long time ago is: skip the tippy tap and go straight for the heavy hand/nuclear approach. you tried a rusted bolt twice and its not coming out? heat it or cut it, dont spend an hour trying to save it. that key in the generator shaft, i would have straight up welded a piece of steel to it to use it as a lever and pull it out. i know patience is a good thing to have, specially working with old rusted equipment, but experience teaches us that there is no point in fighting with one rusted part when there are a thousand more after it
Retro fit it with a Delco 10si alternator that is setup for self excitation. You can find them online for about $100. That’s what I did with my 1960 440ICD crawler. Works great and easy to wire in, although you may need to modify mounting brackets for fit. I also noticed you were using 15w-40 rotella this is a detergent oil and some of the old machines need to run on straight 30w or they will smoke you might want to check on this.
How does an old machine burn more oil if you're using modern oil that's way more resistant to burning off than older oils?
Your 2-53 Detroit is reputed to need straight 40 weight oil however they’ll run on modern multi weight oils though maybe burn a little more than the single 40.
His 4 cycle engine will do great on 15W40
@@Vaino_Hotti because mulit-viscosity oil gets thinner when hot. Also they are detergent oils which for a modern day engine is fine but some older equipment don’t do well on it.
@@jimrankin2583 not exactly, detergent, multi-viscosity oil is not recommended for Detroit diesels period. The detergent oil is the big problem. Use of the detergent multi-viscosity oils reduce engine life in some engines IE Detroit 2 stroke. There many Detroit diesel shops that will confirm that. Now the JD 1010 may be ok but it should be checked to see if multi-viscosity detergent oil is a problem. Hopefully it is ok because straight weight oil is getting harder and harder to find.
@@bonzai2380 if your oil is getting too thin when hot, get thicker oil? Multiviscosity is just what clapped out stuff needs, thinner when cold to start and still stay thicker when hot.
I get that detergent oils can loosen up alot of crud from old engines and two strokes dont run on synthetics as they need to burn oil, but what would really make new oils incompatible with most old engines?
Tip for wrapping spiral guard around hoses. Start in the middle of the hose with the middle of the spiral guard. Less slack to get in the way and get caught up.
Don’t change your content or frequency of videos. Excellent top shelf viewing. I smile every time I open UA-cam and you have uploaded a new video
Same
My husband and I love to watch your show.
Look forward to every video you put out my favorite Channel on UA-cam thank you for your dedication and for the good clean entertainment
Hi John, Another great video and, yes, I'm one of your viewers from the other side of the pond ! Regarding the dynamo/generator it needs residual magnetism to start working. Once it's up and running the load strengthens the magnetism and it goes on working. I work on old railway carriages made before the 1960s so they have dynamos many of which have been idle since the late 1970s if not earlier and all need flashing to restore them to life. Once up and running they last well in use. In our case there's generally an easilly accessible automatic dynamo/battery isolation switch to stop the dynamo motoring when they're not being spun fast enough. I usually spin up the dynamo on the test rig and if it doesn't produce a high enough output to cut in I close the switch manually. This is usually enough but one must be careful because a motoring dynamo with no load will spin to death and one doesn't want that ! As for polarity; so long as its flashed whilst it's spinning in the correct direction you'll produce correctly polarised output. There should be instructions on doing this "out there" because it was quite common to change positve chassis cars to negative so a more modern radio could be fitted. Starters are generally polarity insensitive. BTW most starters are pre-engage so mesh the motor with the starter ring before turning the motor on to save wear on the gears. On LandRover td5 engines the contact plate in the solenoid erodes and starting becomes pot luck. A solenoid rebuild kit soon fixes this without having to replace the starter ! Good luck.
The time you DON'T want to ever use ether on a diesel, is when it has a heater in the intake tract.
That's when they can simply go bang, and blow the intake manifold apart.
Oh, Thank You for that information!
My tractor has a heating element in the intake manifold.
Don't tell that to Peg @ZipTiesNBiasPlies 😂 he loves using the Cosby Sauce.
NPSM swivels don't need thread sealant. They seal on the chamfer of the male NPT hose end. Keep up the good work!
John thanks for sticking with it - loving the content and learnings.
I haven't gone through all the comments to see if anyone else noticed that you put the fan on backwards. Really enjoy your channel. And WWW too.
Hi John, when the engine was out, you could have made the starter motor access hole a little larger to assist with fitting and removal
My thought for sure.
Yeh, I was thinking a 5” diameter hole at least.
A neat little way of testing those old generators like that is hooking them up to power essentially turning it into a motor instead of a generator and seeing if it spins
Hi john from Essex England, great content and love you and the channel, just a quick point,i was always taught to just clean the bendix and shaft with spirit as grease attracts all the clutch dust etc.and seizes it up ❤
Those dc generators require some current through the field coils, to produce the first amount of magnetism. Then you get the output current from the brushes and commutator... No magnetism = No output. It should be an easy mod. to convert to an alternator system.
Also one little tip... When winding 'sisterflex onto the hose, start at the middle, and work outwards. That way you have a shorter loose end.
I haven’t clicked on a notification so fast before! Loving this series and this awesome tractor!
You can run the generator as an electrical motor for check out
Hi John,
I realize that this project must be driving you insane but you are truly an inspiration! Keep up the great work! Watching your videos has given me the confidence to tackle some pretty major engineering hurdles of my own or at the very least get around to a couple of big projects that I have put off for too long. All the best from California! 🧡
Hey John, an FYI, Bendix is a brand name. The correct name is the starter drive. That basic starter design was used on almost every GM vehicle for many many years. You probably already knew that. Love your videos sir. I love the fact you will tackle almost anything. You're getting an education you couldn't get any ever way.
These are my favorite types of videos. I like to watch when you guys take stuff apart like I've been doing my whole life trying to fix them. My only problem is that I rarely do. But I'm learning every time I watch.
Love your fix. You have to flash the field and then if it goes, it will go. Don't use emery around electrical especially commutator segments as it is a conductor. Ron PTL USA
You're a trooper John. I enjoy seeing you put your many skills to work and resurrect a very dead machine. Awesome content
Pandora is a perfect name for this old girl jon And great video as always 52:56 @FarmCraft101
Hey john, a quick way to get stuck parts apart like that key is to heat it with a acetylene torch til hot, then quench with water. The shock should loosen it
Genuinely one of my favorite builds so far. No expectations...just fixin' rusty junk for the sake of doing it. One of the best things a man can do lol.
You need to flash the field to get residual magnetism for it to start generating
It’s called polarizing the generator. For bench testing can hook a battery to it and run it as a motor. If it’ll motor, it should generate when driven.
Thanks for hanging in there John, were all Pulling for you to conquer Pandora.
My favorite series. Great channel John.
When copper wire heats up its resistance increases. The wire in the coils of your starter is warming and drawing less current, and to a lesser extent the wires between the battery and the starter do the same thing
That change would be more gradual, it wouldn't be an abrupt change like you can hear.
It sounds to me like some other thing is kicking in (?fuel pump?) and putting more load on the battery dropping the output voltage.
What a great machine. Certainly worthy of your efforts to save her from the scarp pile. Pandora is a great name and I’m sure she will reveal many more headaches and victories before calling it done. I’m in for every episode you publish in this series.
We hate to spend 100 on hydraulic fluid that hopefully will last a long time. But put 100 dollars of diesel in and don't think that much about it
Thanks for the video .I do enjoy them .
Just a little tip on removing Woodruff keys. I had a starter and alternator business for 40 years and I used to use End Nippers constantly to remove those pesky Woodruff keys without fail.
Batteries when first used to start are at 12-13 volts as the internals of the battery heat as well as the leads the voltage drops as you saw with your meter the voltage drops and the starter slows. This is normal. parallel batteries doubles available starting current. I wouldn't suggest using a higher voltage on the starter or glow plugs. if not designed for it you can/will cause damage.
Teaching you some lessons?? Hey, don't be negative brother. I am a doof-ball about this stuff, sure I can turn a wrench, richet a ratchet, spin a screwdriver, but dang man, I can't do that whatcha doin' here. I love what you're doing...I so wanted you to rebuild that badass momma dozer from an era gone by. If I could do what you do, I'd be so proud to bring her back to life. She's special... don' give up!!! This is the best part watchin' ya knuckle thru the issues.... Yea Man.... knock it down!!!
I used to use a small cape chisel to get that Woodruff key out of generator shafts.
The starter slowing down may just be caused by the jump pack. Those jump packs usually only delivers current for five seconds or so.
Have you ever heard of, or used, 'liquid electrical tape?'. That bare wire would have been a great place to use some.
Love your videos!
Having a good armature shop nearby is a beautiful thing.
Yay! 😂 made my Friday. Love this guy.
With glow plugs, everyone has an opinion. My advice, put 12v to one and see how long it takes to actually reach desired temp. Newer glow plugs on Kubota's/Duramax's are lightening fast if it isn't freezing cold out. They only need roughly 3 seconds to reach max temp, longer will lead to thermal runaway & cooking them. Alternately for any/all diesels, ALWAYS engage the glow plugs prior to starting. Reason, a hot glow plug won't get wetted w/diesel and carbon up (Leidenfrost effect). It's one of many reasons newer diesels seem to have more reliable glow plugs, it's because they always put some heat into them, even if your glow plug light didn't illuminate, the computer 'blipped' it on. Keep up the hard work, it's entertaining.
You are a dog with a bone. You won't quit!!!! Love it!!!
I am sure it will run, but maybe not to your schedule. When a machine has been sitting for a long time, the seals always deteriorate, and as soon as you do anything you open up a plethora of problems, but they are usually fixable. It is also surprising how many spare parts are still available for some of those old machines, and the fact you can usually fix them, to have to get the dealer to come out and have the pleasure of charging you bucket loads of money for very little, and this experience has given you a great connection with this machine.
Hey fella,s never forget to grease your SHAFT 😂
Thank you John for another excellent video.
On our old generators ( one of which is a 2010) I run them as a motor to check them, making sure they don't over rev. If they motor they are supposed to generate. Be safe out there we need you.
Yes, have to magnetize the field iron so there’s something for the armature wires to “cut” so they’ll generate some current to feed back into the field and build up to full voltage. Look up
Polarizing the generator. That does the same as running it as a motor and making sure it turns the same direction as the engine will turn it.
You HAVE to respect the time and effort that's been put into this.
Another great video Jon! The thing I love is you are so thorough. You don't just Jerry rig something or let small problems go until they become big problems. I see your frustration, but also see you slowly warming up to ole Pandora! Can't wait until next week.
Incredible the things that are broke on this “Pandora “ machine, but by now I know there’s nothing you can’t fix! Great series and RESPECT!😊
Oh what fun we have! Isn’t it nice to work on a piece of older equipment? I have an 8N and a 480B, both of which almost every time I get on them I’m fixing something! Don’t tell my wife though but I like the fixing. Thanks for sharing!
I know its been an absolute nightmare but the series has been really great information thank you for all you do!
Hey John, another great video on this old machine which obviously has not had too much regular maintenance in its life. I’m therefore pleased you are now the custodian as I know that despite these setbacks you will end up with a great, reliable machine
Something more valuable then all the parts and time is the knowledge you will always carry with you for future projects.
Exactly. That's the real reason I did this rebuild. The next time I rebuild an engine it will definitely be on a more valuable machine. Cheers.
John, I've been watching every episode for a few years. Fantastic!
Batteries in parallel means the Current doubles, or rather gets added together. Could that be why the starter smokes and glow plugs croaked?
Your battery needs high Cold Cranking Amps to remedy the starter fading after a few seconds.
Thank you for such all round excellent content 👍
Try putting a battery on the dynamo and the motor should spin . I am an old fellow now that is how we used to test them
Hi John your starter motor cranking speed : as voltage drops and motor speed slows current increases and starter windings get hot, this in turn increases voltage drop speed further. Add to this your glow plug drain. You showed the starter draw unloaded was 200A . You need at least 5x CCA That is obtainable from an in parallel setup like you attempted. Tips: batteries should be matched (SAME CCA, INTERNAL RESISTANCE and CONNECTING CABLE LENGTHS BETWEEN BATTERIES ) to balance the drain on batteries. Your Glow plugs may have been on to long and had a melt down or need a resistor to adjust voltage! Some systems use glow plugs after starting at a lower voltage to help system temperature rise to operating temperature. Then on the other hand old systems the glow plug warm up time was manual make connection then release and crank engine. Its a lovely warm day down here i Auz see you next week. Cheers
This starter motor is called a pre engaged type in as much as it is engaged onto the ring gear before the solenoid shunts can make contact, a bendix drive on the other hand is a mechanical, rotational helical screw device which uses the dead weight of the pinion to fling the drive dog along its screw shaft and into the flywheel after the motor is energised. all pre engaged types have the solenoid mounted on the body of the motor with the solenoids movement engaging the drive through a swinging lever before energising. it is a common misunderstanding by a lot of people that all drive dogs are called bendix drives when they are actually two very different beasts with completely different characteristics.
Don’t fight it…..it’s like Kleenex!
Love seeing it all come together! It's too late to scrap the ol' girl, so you might as well just dig in and get her running like new. The upside is that the lessons learned will be invaluable on future projects. And we're all having a great time watching your trials and travails. 😁
It's fun watching you struggle. It makes me feel a lot better about all my projects that just keep exposing more projects.
I think that I would NOT have your patience with this endless faulty machine. Great work! Greetings from Germany
I had a very similar Delco Remy starter motor on my old Mustang skid steer that was slow to turn even after I fully rebuilt it (well I thought I had done a full rebuild). I ended up using a meg ohm tester to test the field winding insulation to earth instead of just an ohm meter. Turns out after years of oil water and dust soaking into the insulation it was breaking down (probably had a lot of cracks through it). I refurbished the field windings and it spun over like new. Has been going strong for a few years now.
I believe that the starter slows down when the engine increases compression. I'm not really a fan of seeing the end before the beginning but you tied it in better than most.
Love that you are still working on this. Pandora is a good name. I have no need for what I am Learning but look forward to your video every week.
It's probably bad to say, but for us viewers we don't really mind this playlist getting to a hundred episodes. Your videos are awesome, and I watch every single one of them at least once. Greetings from Norway. Keep up the excellent work!
Field probably needs to be flashed, 8 ohms sounds a bit high, but I would not be concerned about it they do loose magnetism over periods of disuse.. You should be able to flash the generator polarity to negative ground.
I'm an avid fan and was wondering why. I think it's the mystery of what's going to happen next. Your willingness to get in there balanced with a lot of knowledge and just the right amount of don't-know-what-I'm-doing keeps me hooked. If you you knew everything it would be informative but not interesting, and if you were a cocky know-all it would be off putting. So thanks for being real and sharing.
Hat's off to you for showing us how this stuff works. Personally, I am just buying buying a new one. I find that starters and alternators aren't usually worth the efforts.
Thanks Jon, learn so much from all the investigations and fixing you do, hope to see Dora in action in future series 🎉
Good vid. Pandora is a good name for her.
I have been known to split a stubborn woodruff key length wise with a thin cutoff wheel on a Dremel.
If I’m not mistaken, you can still get AC Delco generators. I have one on my 1959./60 Oldsmobile,98 four-door holiday and it’s just similar to that one only a lot cleaner. It has two oilers on it just like yours. But you’ll need a voltage regulator to operate it as well. I think mine has three pegs on it on the firewall of the car for the voltage regulator for the generator. When idling, they don’t put out a lot of power. The light starts to glow on the dash inside the car when idling after it’s been run for a while and it’s hot underneath the hood For some reason but anyway, yeah good old generators they’re fun to work on, but you can still get them or rebuild them with a kit.
The two terminals on the generator should be labeled “A” (bigger lug) & “f” (smaller lug). “A” is for armature and “f” is for field. Applying voltage to “A” and case will make it run like a motor. If not, then momentarily apply voltage to “f” (this is called flashing the field). When engine is turning generator, grounding the “f” will cause the voltage to runaway. Generators operate with permanent magnetism. Flashing the field will restore the needed magnetism.
I was going to say exactly the same thing! I've tested generators before by grounding the field, it should charge at max output.
John on the glow plugs they take 5 to 9 volts going to the plugs, but you need an inline resistor between the key switch and the glow plugs has a glow indicator that drops the voltage down to get them to function correctly but also tells you how much the plugs are glowing. Think miniature heater. Look up the wiring diagram of an international 384 tractor. It is pretty much the exact same system. Maybe a different model and brand that works the same.
Watching you work like watching a well rehearsed dancer going thru his routine. Every step you took seemed it has been well planed and has been fully deliberated. Good job and thanks for sharing!
This thing will run like brand new and you're gonna be so glad you put all this work into it!
Greetings from Germany!
You have more patience than many, l would have torched it by now!
Enjoyed your rebuild of the old 1010 . We had 2 of those on the farm 1 with an over sized bucket and the other had a log clam.They were a little front heavy . The other machine was a 440 John Deere with a GM 2 cycle diesel , had a very interesting sound . Good luck with your project . leaking oil was just part of the deal .