Crackin'. Nice to see the recycled paracord and the orange interior of the pack-using appropriate items for the job. And, the grinds- Only as thought out as function dictates.The spoon has to go in the gob.
It's not an essential skill but you do get satisfaction from doing nice ones! A pile of shavings do the same job. That's what I did for years before I saw feather sticks done properly. Have you watched my feather sticks video,? Might help, soon as it clicks with your technique you'll be able to do them consistently, the right wood really helps!
Your featherstick video really helped me as I have a tendency to dig in. I'd always just used the square edge of a quartered stick until you explained about using the centre of a bigger round. I've yet to get one to light just from a ferro rod, but as you say, the right wood is very important. Keep up the great vids.
Interesting what happened to the shallower grind, keep us updated on the micro bevel idea. I like the ease of touching up the blade without having to take too much steel off, as well as having just a bit more meat behind the cutting edge. How do I enter the giveaway Rob? I regret passing on my Bushtool, I think at the time I found the buttplate was digging in my palm after lots of use, just my usage or hand position I think. Or having soft paws from not getting up the trees or moving logs about anymore. I should have rounded it off a little, just on that back edge. The necker that was its match mate in the butterscotch G10 still gets a lot of use though, it’s a cracking knife, been de-thorning some Blackthorn sticks neatly. Always a nice watch anyway mate, especially as we seem to have the Welsh climate over Sussex just now. It’s tipping it down out there, I couldn’t even get the dogs out for a last pee which means I’ll be woken at 05.00 by a cross-legged Jack Russell.
Last comment (promise), Spec-Ops Brand did the bright interior thing before Hidden Woodsman. I have some stuff from them over a decade old, well before Malcolm was doing his thing.
The tribute knife is an excellent tool. For carving I prever shallower grinds. Even knowing the downside of it. you have to sharpen it more often and it is less forgiving. But it works for me.
The Skookum has a higher grind (12dps) thus it's more efficient while Rob's 'regular' Bushtool (15dps like a Ray Mears Woodlore for example) has theoretically an edge that's a tad more robust and the 'choil' on Rob's knife is kinda little bit more 'pronounced'.. you can feel where the handle is meeting the blade without looking. It's like a warning signal for my brain, I like that very much. On the Skookum that part feels a little bit 'smoother'.
Great vid. It was fun to see the shallow grind... I didn't think that would survive your torture tests lol. Have you thought about a tanto shape blade with zero scandi grind edge? I'd imagine it being effective and durable considering your style. Just a fun concept. Be safe and stay healthy brother.
RobEvans Woodsman Why not convex it? Reasoning: I did that to a Lionsteel M1. That knife has a terrible 'micro' bevel and is 1mm thick after the bevel. The knife was paper cutting sharp, but wouldn't cut a thing. I spend some time with a DC4 to convex it. Doesn't look 'perfect', since it shows my (lack of) sharpening skills, but cuts much better! Comming from a flat scandi is quite the opposite, but I would still prefer the convex. Just my opinion, YMMD.
Btw, what oil/wax do you use for: 1. Rust prevention 2. Leather protection I have switched to tsubaki (camellia) oil for my knife collection (and axes/kukris). I even use it on my leather sheaths. Really happy with it. The Japanese have been using it for years. You should do a video on knife/axe cleaning/maintenance/sharpening. :)
I use marine tuff cloth on steel and I don't generally use anything specifically for leather, whatever wax I have at the time but the climate here doesn't dry leather out.
RobEvans Woodsman I have used Tuff Cloth too and it’s great stuff. I just wanted a food-grade oil (for food prep). Almost switched to mineral oil, but tried tsubaki instead... Japanese have used it for centuries, and it’s food safe (they use it in food, too, and skin/hair lotions). I recommend.
I like Break Free for lube and protection of non-food use carbon steel knives. For food use, I like Jojoba oil. For something thicker that will protect long term better and stay on in very hot weather (Arizona), I make a mixture of beeswax, mineral oil and jojoba oil until it is a little thicker than vaseline. It is food safe, sticks well and is cheap and easy to make. Vaseline is a good cheap alternative and used by machete guys in south america.
I've been waiting for ages to talk to you about grinds - not something I want to do electronically, but in the words of Vera Lynn, "We'll meet again, don't know where, don't know when!"
agree the mora is a great knife, and its done me for the 2 years iv been getting into bushcraft and doing a bit of cooking outdoors wile hiking the welsh hills 😀
@@davidr4310 it's always good to trash a cheaper knife and learn the craft and how to sharpen before you invest in a custom knife, you've done the right thing. I can highly recommend Robs knives they are lovely tools. You just have to be lucky enough to have cash and perfect timing as they go quick. Good luck.
@@davidr4310 Rob has an Instagram page Robevs73 where he posts stuff for sale. BushcraftUK and Facebook's bushcraft trading and sales page occasionally have them come up for sale, but they are like hen's teeth as no-one wants to part with his blades, they are quality. Sorry can't help more than that, but follow Rob on Instagram and you might get lucky.
Love the Orange in that pack. 35litres a bit small as I’ve got an LK35 which is great. So the edge roll on the new knife? Due to the shallow grind or to the steel!
Shallow grind, I filmed a follow up today. You'll have to wait a week for that . I was carving some tough wood. Fared better than Scott's A2 Skookum and D2 Bison Forrester years ago. They looked like wood saws after carving Hard woods.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I like my Moras, but they run 11.5 to 13 degrees per side in just medium hard steel. I live in Arizona, so not many trees unless you go up into the mountains. The small dry dead shrubs for fire starting are usually some kind of desert ironwood, which is crazy hard and really wrecks shallow scandis, so I'm thinking of doing an extreme scandivex or microbevel back to 20 degrees for better durability on a couple knives and set them aside for hardwood/desert use.
Great knives Mr Rob. Thank you for your time & video👍 Is there any way possible for me to own one of your knives 🔪 If so how would I contact you please??
How often do you sell your bush tools? Whats the rough price for a standard micarta version? Subscribed to your channel and it took me a while to realise you made them.
I don't sell much, usually post what I have available on Instagram Robevs73, not taking orders/commissions at the moment due to work and family commitments taking up most of my time. Check out my Tribute knife (Mors Kochanski tribute) there will be knives Available soon.
Perfect timing. I was practicing making feathersticks last night in my driveway... I can make fire in numerous ways but feathersticks I’m still struggling on. Any wood types you’d recommend generally? I always choose standing deadwood... it may be my technique? Using a Condor Bushlore, with scandi grind. Going to put a convex microbevel edge on it when I get my Ken Onion Work Sharp (gonna do it to all my knives; sabre/scandi/full flat grind, etc.). Any recommendations?
Hi Rob, how do i buy your puukko? I’m looking for it everywhere and there’s nothing out there. I’m in California. I would love to gave your puukko with black scales. Is it possible? Thank you!
It depends on the angle and steel of the zero scandi grind, steeper the grind the stronger the edge is, for example A2 on a shallow grind zero will chip like hell, it needs a steeper microbevel, O1 on a steeper grind at 58rockwell will not chip. But make that grind too steep and it will be awful and a really bad cutter, there's a sweet spot which I have found to be 13 degrees each side. I hope that clears things up. Thanks for watching.
Crackin'. Nice to see the recycled paracord and the orange interior of the pack-using appropriate items for the job. And, the grinds- Only as thought out as function dictates.The spoon has to go in the gob.
Agreed! A classic way to light a fire 🔥 Beautiful knives Rob!!
Hard and wet is definitely better than flaccid and dry mate.
I do like the handle shape on the "accident" knife
Loving both! Great video Sir Rob
PLASTER good job! i really want one of your bushtool knives! keep me in mind thanks
Nice vid Rob. Welcome to lockdown like the rest of us in S Wales.
Taken a week off work next week , plans for a few days camping, gone tits up now. Gutted. I had big plans.
Crazy wonderful knifes!!!
Your knives are just amazing Rob.
Thanks Rick
Like the tribute knife
You always make feathersticks look easy.......... I think I need to spend a lot more time honing this skill.
It's not an essential skill but you do get satisfaction from doing nice ones!
A pile of shavings do the same job.
That's what I did for years before I saw feather sticks done properly.
Have you watched my feather sticks video,? Might help, soon as it clicks with your technique you'll be able to do them consistently, the right wood really helps!
Your featherstick video really helped me as I have a tendency to dig in. I'd always just used the square edge of a quartered stick until you explained about using the centre of a bigger round. I've yet to get one to light just from a ferro rod, but as you say, the right wood is very important. Keep up the great vids.
Thank you, great comments like that keep me filming!
your 'seconds' knife looks great
... far better than many knives i have bought,
Interesting what happened to the shallower grind, keep us updated on the micro bevel idea. I like the ease of touching up the blade without having to take too much steel off, as well as having just a bit more meat behind the cutting edge.
How do I enter the giveaway Rob? I regret passing on my Bushtool, I think at the time I found the buttplate was digging in my palm after lots of use, just my usage or hand position I think. Or having soft paws from not getting up the trees or moving logs about anymore. I should have rounded it off a little, just on that back edge. The necker that was its match mate in the butterscotch G10 still gets a lot of use though, it’s a cracking knife, been de-thorning some Blackthorn sticks neatly. Always a nice watch anyway mate, especially as we seem to have the Welsh climate over Sussex just now. It’s tipping it down out there, I couldn’t even get the dogs out for a last pee which means I’ll be woken at 05.00 by a cross-legged Jack Russell.
Beatiful knife!
Amazing knife
Nice knife and sheaths Rob...Hope your good mate and enjoyed your weekend :-)
Skandivex Rob, it's the new black!
There is that mate
Last comment (promise), Spec-Ops Brand did the bright interior thing before Hidden Woodsman. I have some stuff from them over a decade old, well before Malcolm was doing his thing.
That's good to know.
The tribute knife is an excellent tool. For carving I prever shallower grinds. Even knowing the downside of it. you have to sharpen it more often and it is less forgiving. But it works for me.
Good stuph as usual.
Thanks for the vid Rob, definitely wanting to lay my hands on a tribute knife to try next to my Skookums mate😁👍🏻
You got enough Skookums you don’t need a tribute too 🤪🤪🤪🤪
The Skookum has a higher grind (12dps) thus it's more efficient while Rob's 'regular' Bushtool (15dps like a Ray Mears Woodlore for example) has theoretically an edge that's a tad more robust and the 'choil' on Rob's knife is kinda little bit more 'pronounced'.. you can feel where the handle is meeting the blade without looking. It's like a warning signal for my brain, I like that very much. On the Skookum that part feels a little bit 'smoother'.
Great vid. It was fun to see the shallow grind... I didn't think that would survive your torture tests lol. Have you thought about a tanto shape blade with zero scandi grind edge? I'd imagine it being effective and durable considering your style. Just a fun concept.
Be safe and stay healthy brother.
Good stuff Rob
That's a great looking knife with a cool looking sheath.
Thanks, shame about the edge!
RobEvans Woodsman Why not convex it?
Reasoning: I did that to a Lionsteel M1. That knife has a terrible 'micro' bevel and is 1mm thick after the bevel. The knife was paper cutting sharp, but wouldn't cut a thing. I spend some time with a DC4 to convex it. Doesn't look 'perfect', since it shows my (lack of) sharpening skills, but cuts much better!
Comming from a flat scandi is quite the opposite, but I would still prefer the convex.
Just my opinion, YMMD.
Btw, what oil/wax do you use for:
1. Rust prevention
2. Leather protection
I have switched to tsubaki (camellia) oil for my knife collection (and axes/kukris). I even use it on my leather sheaths. Really happy with it. The Japanese have been using it for years.
You should do a video on knife/axe cleaning/maintenance/sharpening. :)
I use marine tuff cloth on steel and I don't generally use anything specifically for leather, whatever wax I have at the time but the climate here doesn't dry leather out.
RobEvans Woodsman I have used Tuff Cloth too and it’s great stuff. I just wanted a food-grade oil (for food prep). Almost switched to mineral oil, but tried tsubaki instead... Japanese have used it for centuries, and it’s food safe (they use it in food, too, and skin/hair lotions). I recommend.
I like Break Free for lube and protection of non-food use carbon steel knives. For food use, I like Jojoba oil. For something thicker that will protect long term better and stay on in very hot weather (Arizona), I make a mixture of beeswax, mineral oil and jojoba oil until it is a little thicker than vaseline. It is food safe, sticks well and is cheap and easy to make. Vaseline is a good cheap alternative and used by machete guys in south america.
Martin Hafner What you describe is sort of like fixin’ wax. I plan on making some fixin’ wax and trying it out for field use.
Love the look of the 'new' bushtool. BTW was the firesteel at the beginning a Ray Mears one?
no mate it was the one i reviewed a few months before, swedish rod , probably from the same factory as the Mears one.
I've been waiting for ages to talk to you about grinds - not something I want to do electronically, but in the words of Vera Lynn, "We'll meet again, don't know where, don't know when!"
I like zero scandi, flat with secondary bevel and convex on a big knife.
them knives look great, im gonna get myself a propper knife one day to replace my mora
Nothing wrong with a mora mate.
agree the mora is a great knife, and its done me for the 2 years iv been getting into bushcraft and doing a bit of cooking outdoors wile
hiking the welsh hills 😀
@@davidr4310 it's always good to trash a cheaper knife and learn the craft and how to sharpen before you invest in a custom knife, you've done the right thing. I can highly recommend Robs knives they are lovely tools. You just have to be lucky enough to have cash and perfect timing as they go quick. Good luck.
@@farquharwilson2523
Thanks mate, were do you find these knives for sale
@@davidr4310 Rob has an Instagram page Robevs73 where he posts stuff for sale. BushcraftUK and Facebook's bushcraft trading and sales page occasionally have them come up for sale, but they are like hen's teeth as no-one wants to part with his blades, they are quality. Sorry can't help more than that, but follow Rob on Instagram and you might get lucky.
Love the Orange in that pack. 35litres a bit small as I’ve got an LK35 which is great.
So the edge roll on the new knife? Due to the shallow grind or to the steel!
Shallow grind, I filmed a follow up today.
You'll have to wait a week for that .
I was carving some tough wood.
Fared better than Scott's A2 Skookum and D2 Bison Forrester years ago.
They looked like wood saws after carving
Hard woods.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I like my Moras, but they run 11.5 to 13 degrees per side in just medium hard steel. I live in Arizona, so not many trees unless you go up into the mountains. The small dry dead shrubs for fire starting are usually some kind of desert ironwood, which is crazy hard and really wrecks shallow scandis, so I'm thinking of doing an extreme scandivex or microbevel back to 20 degrees for better durability on a couple knives and set them aside for hardwood/desert use.
Great knives Mr Rob. Thank you for your time & video👍 Is there any way possible for me to own one of your knives 🔪 If so how would I contact you please??
Hi Shane , follow me on Instagram Robevs 73 , what's available I put on there, not taking commissions at the moment sorry.
Any chance of a kukri in use vid ,what they can do v,s axe ect? Would be intresting as just bought highland one .
ua-cam.com/video/mF42FF6zO4w/v-deo.html
"Hard and bloody wet "...😂
How often do you sell your bush tools? Whats the rough price for a standard micarta version? Subscribed to your channel and it took me a while to realise you made them.
I don't sell much, usually post what I have available on Instagram Robevs73, not taking orders/commissions at the moment due to work and family commitments taking up most of my time.
Check out my Tribute knife (Mors Kochanski tribute) there will be knives Available soon.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I will keep an eye cheers pal.
Perfect timing. I was practicing making feathersticks last night in my driveway... I can make fire in numerous ways but feathersticks I’m still struggling on.
Any wood types you’d recommend generally?
I always choose standing deadwood... it may be my technique? Using a Condor Bushlore, with scandi grind.
Going to put a convex microbevel edge on it when I get my Ken Onion Work Sharp (gonna do it to all my knives; sabre/scandi/full flat grind, etc.). Any recommendations?
Anything with a straight grain that splits easily, pine, spruce.
Hi Rob, how do i buy your puukko? I’m looking for it everywhere and there’s nothing out there. I’m in California. I would love to gave your puukko with black scales. Is it possible? Thank you!
Follow me on Instagram RobEvs73.
You can message me on there.
I can probably make you one after Christmas.
Was that the odd one out in the last batch?
Yes mate
Video on the new knife coming soon?
New knife?
RobEvans Woodsman Skookum.
I don’t get it. Now you said that zero scandi does chip with hard carving but in the Tribute release video you said it does not chip…
It depends on the angle and steel of the zero scandi grind, steeper the grind the stronger the edge is, for example A2 on a shallow grind zero will chip like hell, it needs a steeper microbevel, O1 on a steeper grind at 58rockwell will not chip.
But make that grind too steep and it will be awful and a really bad cutter, there's a sweet spot which I have found to be 13 degrees each side.
I hope that clears things up.
Thanks for watching.
@ got it!