You are absolutely right but still this video is just to show everyone that it can be done for such a low cost then everyone is free to do their own way. I choose the easy way I am a bit lazy :)
If your not going to Polish the crank..you really needed to put some lucus oil stabilizer on top of the bearings..so they would inturn..oil the crank..no metal to metal start up"
Good job. Don't forget to sand the connecting rod journals with wd40 and 800 grit sandpaper. White clean then install bearings. Also put a strip around the crankshaft connector. Wrap a shoe lace around it and sand it down also with a back and forth pull
It depends how much damage the crank and bearing took, if it knocks enough to where you can hear it at idle, this fix won't work, at least not for very long, however a slight bearing rattle, with worn out bearings would have a much better chance with rod bearing replacement.
did the same with my 1zz engine on a Roadster. bearing replaced, engine smooth like new. 18£ of bearings, when garages where asking to rebuild or replace the engine for 1K. These videos are the worst nightmare for specialist and garages :D Thanks for sharing !
This video saved me an absolute fortune, you've had some haters in the comments but that was always gonna happen, this helped me out loads, can't thank you enough to be honest. Keep it up matey. 👍😁
@@joshsettlage got about 20 ish, had another set of shell's so tried it a second time, and they went while the engine was just ticking over, the main reason for the bearing failing was that the oil pump was knackered so it wasn't feeding the bearings properly.
Working for a professional subaru shop and rebuilding these motors daily, I would never recommend this to anyone unless you absolutely needed the car back on the road. For those of you doing this method then selling the car, I hope you're in a good place cause a hack repair to be sold is bad karma. There is so much more that needs to go into this job for it to be reliable. Cheap is not always best
That's why nobody watches your videos! I don't give a damn if you're a Pro unless you're an Engineer, Most people who search UA-cam and Google videos for an easy cheap fix are the people with Tight-Pocket or can't afford "Dealerships and Morons like you". This video is a $20 fix well he is not a Pro but at least he is giving a hint for starters and those who are new to Engine etc. How much you you cost? $20 or $2000? is the new engine like $6000 ?. "Those engines with rod knock are the engine is on it's way to Heaven, just do quick fix $20 until it dies, this method in this video would last 1-2 years or maybe forever nobody can tell, the Dealership or Mechanic will suggest replacing the whole engine anyways, Subaru Boxer Engine is garbage.
This has been done for decades and engines have gone on for years after I had a bmw and did this two times on the same journal over a 5 year period sold the car to my mate who had helped me do it twice and it’s still going 7 years on and with another 50k on it so it’s worth a shot if you can do it and money is tight
How early you catch the knock and perform this repair will determine how long it lasts. Obviously try to clean the crank as best you can. Well done 👍✅! !! Mad respect !
*WARNING* Please know that if you follow this DIY, you will soon be replacing your bearings again or your entire engine. This repair is merely a band-aid and shouldn't be used for anything serious or long-term. The crankshaft still has old bearing material on it and will need to be sanded/polished until within spec. After the crank has been repaired, you need to measure the bearing clearance and use the correct size bearings for your engine's specified tolerance. Not only that but you need a torque wrench with proper torque specs for any type of engine work. It's too bad UA-cam removed dislikes because this video is dangerous and costly.
@@kicksoffs I build these engines professionally and I completely agree with what he's saying. You should go buy a lottery ticket if this method has lasted you that long
Are you an Engineer ? what the heck do you know? "Once your engine Rod-Knock it's going gone" 20$ quick fixes would last 1-2 years or maybe 5 years until your Engine dies. Rebuild and engine replacement costs a huge $, and the car is like 15 years old? Did you learn the math in school?
I would have polished the crank first to eliminate the bearring metal that got melted onto the crank. Since he replaced only one bearring he should have used another set with the fines sandpaper grid glued to the inside of the new bearring to sand down to smoother look. then use a piece of tape to hold them together onto the crank and use a shoe string or a rubber belt to spin it fast by hand for a few times with some water. Then remove and inspect untill smooth finish. sounds hard but not impossible. Ill be doing it to my 2005 Wrx Impreza this weekend
Wow, what a hack! Didn't smooth the journal, no assembly lube, dry bearings, no torque, metal through out the engine... good luck down the road! Probably at one of those corner used car lots as well!
Didnt watch the vid did ya bud. He flushed it pulled the pan and changed the filter both flushes n put a magnet plug bolt on. Pretty decent diy if u ask me other then bot lubing and not doing all the bearings
@@t-dougz6050 bearing material is not magnetic so the drain plug doesn’t do anything. That engine will not last long before knocking again, the journal was too scored. One cylinder has really low compression you can hear it when he cranks it over. I give that engine 5000km max, it sounds like it’s still knocking a bit after the new bearing too
Everyone knows this is a short term fix, but the car is back on the road. That's what's important. You may get 1000 or you may get 20000 more miles. Do it.
You should pull it and have the crank machined. The crank will be out of round so this fix is likely temporary. The new bearing could fail quickly. The entire engine should be disassembled. Metal flakes from the old bearing can clog oil passages and cause more damage
First, great work.......Do you know what “Plastigage” is and how to use it?? How about wrapping the crank journal with a strap of crocus cloth and cleaning it up, polish the score marks? I don’t know it they make oversized bearings for Suji’s? There are shims too? Old School....
wow never even measured to see if they were the correct size for the clearance and then checking the clearance an engineering magician how long this last let me guess 7 months?
This does not work in cylinder one (front passenger) because there’s some sort of bar in the way. This was in the comments as a response, but I didn’t see it until I wasted a Saturday finding it out myself. I hope this helps someone.
Depends on how the bearing is damaged. If by stupidity, yes it's a great cheap fix. If the bearing got damage by pre-exisitng oil system problem, the new bearing will get damaged again fairly quickly.
A proper rebuilt, the crank get polished and you do the measurement to figure out what oversize to use. In this case, I bet it's just the stock size bearing. The crank doesn't look so beat up, It will last long if the engine doesn't have other problems to begin with.
ok agree with You with 100% ,but question: Is this perfect solution for temporary period some... months? years? of course im doing repairs by my self with my subaru, so i can change rod knocks every month, until when i collect all of oem parts for proper rebuild with new seals, oil pump etc. what do You think? is this good way to safety ,temporary,cheampest and continued use of my engine?
This was a nice and good video it help a lot of people fixing their car problems. I have the same problem in my subaru forester xt the engine is knocking too much.I hope I have found the solution to the vehicle,thanks very much for sharing
good video but 99% of the time the crank has lost a few thousands of thickness like the bearing so yes it works and is a little quieter with a new stock thicker bearing and fresh oil but most of the time they sound the same after running a little while good try if it's your personal ride definitely not a retail job
Thank you for this video, unfortunately we were sold an Impreza with same issue except 3 of the bearings are bad, luckily just the three that are easy to get to. I too will be selling the car once it’s fixed😅
@@dannyr3346 I was wondering about that too, as in how ? I think the forester I bought not only need head gaskets, it makes that same ticking noise....my education is expensive !
You’re gonna end up running into the same problem in a bit. When you throw a rod or bearing, those little metal flakes go throughout your engine. Once you throw a rod, if you don’t take apart the engine and resurface almost everything, that engine is junk.
I'm planning on doing this on my 2009 Forester. After you remove the oil pan what do you need to remove in order to see the connecting rod, like oil pump and everything?
My engine sounded like it had a little knock and then seized up completely you can start it with some effort but it squeeks and rattles. Wont run for more than 10 seconds or so. Has metal shavings. Could this be the culprit?
It would of been helpful if you showed how to get the end cap off as I'm finding it hard to do my EJ25 #4 rod bearing... Plus what is the torque setting getting back together. too much info is missing from your video
I would suggest if anyone does this to also buy the heaviest oil for the first run. Also if possible replace the main bearings too, sometimes requires the engine to be removed...ask me how I know. I also have a good tow plan just in case it decides to act up while out.
You can do all the bearings except cyclinder 1 connecting rod. There is a bar in the way. Unfortunately cyclinder 1 and 3 is the most likely to start knocking. However doesnt mean it's impossible I have jist never tried it...
.2. 3. 4. Can be replaced like this .. #1 can't you have to pull apart the engine to get to #1 cylinder.. it not a recommended way but if you on a budget go ahead. Just allow it time to work in ..
@@jesusvillanueva2616 Sounds more like tappets if it's clicking. Make sure oil level is now in correct range. Liqui Moly make some additives that can help solve ticking tappets. Like Liqui Moly Mos2 Tappet Stop Noise. You can add it to the engine oil. Not an ad for them but they're one of the trustworthy distributors who's products usually work well. Injectors can also make a very light similar sound but are usually easier to locate, and is usually nothing to be concerned about there.
@@jesusvillanueva2616 A knock sound will likely be rod knock which is different to clicking, your knock sensor (detonation sensor) could be shutting down the car I'd say. You may want to try replacing that knock sensor first as if they send the wrong signal to the ECU they can actually induce knocking and one of the reasons the car is shutting itself off I'd say. It's relatively cheap compared to taking the engine apart or doing the kind of emergency procedure shown in this video. Otherwise I'd say most likely it is main crankshaft bearing going out, and you need to fix it before driving the car again as it can lead to a complete engine failure. Some more info here on rod knock can be a surprising number of causes. Take it to a professional mechanic for a diagnosis if possible: quality-coaches.com/auto-repair-shop/is-a-rod-knock-the-end-of-your-engine-as-you-know-it/
You are welcome thanks for watching. Just bought another impreza gt with broken gearbox I will start rebuilding very soon so please subscribe dont miss anything :)
Kinda depends on how you drive an the condition of the engine when you do this. If it ran for longer periods of time after it started knocking, then the crankshaft is probably toast. I would say it probably lasts a couple oil changes if you drive conservatively
This is honestly the stupidest way to fix this problem he I just did so many things wrong now he has one good bearing that rod isn’t torqued down there’s metal in everything now it likely has like 4000 if that till it blows again
People do not do this, within time you wreck your motor even more. The rubbish goes in between EVRYTHING, and gets crushed into your main bearings, heads could be destroyed etc. He also did not replace his oil heat exchanger which is also full of metal most of the time.
I have same issue only problem is the front one in the very back 1 the front 1 leaves no room to get into it do you have any Tips on how to get to the front one?
Fiddly job. Shows great knowledge of the engine doing it this way. Torquing it seems pretty difficult would need some kind of extension. Are the EJ255 rods accessible this way?
Probably but I was wondering the same thing. Bought an Outback XT as a parts car but if I could do this fix and have some fun with it for a while first that would be cool. This isn’t a long term fix but it would be interesting for sure and probably worth a shot
@@quintonulm2435 Yep worth doing in a pinch, but you can't really measure tolerances too well with the crankshaft still in there, not impossible but also not a hugely reliable long-term fix.
Lmao I just watched that ....yea it was broke btw don’t ever do this this is a super stupid idea and I’m disappointed someone would lead others to do this it will fail and fail wuick
Ok so reading some of these im sorry im a stupid blonde so mine only had a 1/4 of the bearing left to it so i want this to work but i just bought it wanted to do a few minor repairs and flip it this isnt what i call minor. So im changes 3 of 4 bearings as #1 cant get to without pulling motor sanding the shit out of it but u think may not last long what does it need new crankshaft i dont want to rip anyone off like i feel i got when got the car from auction thank u Jocelyn Barnwell from Montana
If you got over 100k miles on your crank it is worn egg shaped and OE size bearings are too small. Got to make up for the lose on the crank. OE size bearings might work for a Subaru with 60k miles.
Joe Smartballs I though the same thing. I had a miata with rod knock on cylinder 4 (common with over heating and low oil) with 245k miles when it blew. Didn’t get oem I wanted to account for the smaller crank (presumably) and they were too much. It locked up the crankshaft.
How did you get the top nut off of the cap? I cant seem to get enough room to hook the socket or spanner over it i was thinking i might have to bend the spanner a bit maybe
@@CloudsGarage herseyi beklerdim, türk olabilecegini beklemezdim😁 Sagolasin video icin. Ilerde denk gelirsem biryerde acip bakarim. Ayni ise yorum atarim tekrar
Crank has to be removed and milled. The crank is too hard to sand. So you're wrong. Nothing you can do but remove it and mill it, and use larger bearings.
Someone in my area is selling a 2009 Impreza WRX for $4,000, the problem is he says "The car has a rod knock in one of the cylinders, the car hasn't been driven since the knock was discovered, don't have the time or money to fix" Not sure if it's a good idea to buy.
@@barlosperez8423 Rebuilt the motor, put another 14k on it before I now am at an issue with possibly the valves, been actin real funny and burning oil out the exhaust
How to waste $20 (btw that’s a lie with all the oil, filter, sealant you’re over $100) but without properly polishing the crank it’s going to eat through the bearing in a matter of hours.
should have polished crank with some wet sanding paper and a shoe lace to get avoid it from scratching up new bearing
You are absolutely right but still this video is just to show everyone that it can be done for such a low cost then everyone is free to do their own way. I choose the easy way I am a bit lazy :)
Assembly lube would be nice too!
Dry bearings? Rough journal!
If your not going to Polish the crank..you really needed to put some lucus oil stabilizer on top of the bearings..so they would inturn..oil the crank..no metal to metal start up"
Good job. Don't forget to sand the connecting rod journals with wd40 and 800 grit sandpaper. White clean then install bearings. Also put a strip around the crankshaft connector. Wrap a shoe lace around it and sand it down also with a back and forth pull
It depends how much damage the crank and bearing took, if it knocks enough to where you can hear it at idle, this fix won't work, at least not for very long, however a slight bearing rattle, with worn out bearings would have a much better chance with rod bearing replacement.
did the same with my 1zz engine on a Roadster. bearing replaced, engine smooth like new. 18£ of bearings, when garages where asking to rebuild or replace the engine for 1K. These videos are the worst nightmare for specialist and garages :D Thanks for sharing !
How long did it last?
@@FroztiProductions still fine today.
@@80sPhoenixstill works? Doing any pulls or driving like an old grandma?
@@RollieBeatz sold it now, but still fine till with me. Yes driving grandma style, no pulls. That's the only way to preserve an old standard engine.
This video saved me an absolute fortune, you've had some haters in the comments but that was always gonna happen, this helped me out loads, can't thank you enough to be honest. Keep it up matey. 👍😁
Still running?
@@grandtheftauto1233 No mate this fix didn't last long, ended up getting a new engine.
@@shaking1974 ah well you tried. Hope your new engine is blessed and never fails
How many miles did you get?
@@joshsettlage got about 20 ish, had another set of shell's so tried it a second time, and they went while the engine was just ticking over, the main reason for the bearing failing was that the oil pump was knackered so it wasn't feeding the bearings properly.
obviously alot of people in here love pulling engines ????
in hawaii, this is a fix......assuming u polish the crank the best u can
u da man
Working for a professional subaru shop and rebuilding these motors daily, I would never recommend this to anyone unless you absolutely needed the car back on the road. For those of you doing this method then selling the car, I hope you're in a good place cause a hack repair to be sold is bad karma. There is so much more that needs to go into this job for it to be reliable. Cheap is not always best
That's why nobody watches your videos! I don't give a damn if you're a Pro unless you're an Engineer, Most people who search UA-cam and Google videos for an easy cheap fix are the people with Tight-Pocket or can't afford "Dealerships and Morons like you".
This video is a $20 fix well he is not a Pro but at least he is giving a hint for starters and those who are new to Engine etc. How much you you cost? $20 or $2000? is the new engine like $6000 ?.
"Those engines with rod knock are the engine is on it's way to Heaven, just do quick fix $20 until it dies, this method in this video would last 1-2 years or maybe forever nobody can tell, the Dealership or Mechanic will suggest replacing the whole engine anyways, Subaru Boxer Engine is garbage.
I ask because I honestly don't know how is this a hack job?
Yo how much for a shop to fix it
This has been done for decades and engines have gone on for years after I had a bmw and did this two times on the same journal over a 5 year period sold the car to my mate who had helped me do it twice and it’s still going 7 years on and with another 50k on it so it’s worth a shot if you can do it and money is tight
He should of atleast polished the crank with sand paper
How early you catch the knock and perform this repair will determine how long it lasts. Obviously try to clean the crank as best you can.
Well done 👍✅! !!
Mad respect !
Im glad my subi isn't the only one that manages to coat the whole under side of the car in oil lol
Smh mine too
*WARNING* Please know that if you follow this DIY, you will soon be replacing your bearings again or your entire engine. This repair is merely a band-aid and shouldn't be used for anything serious or long-term. The crankshaft still has old bearing material on it and will need to be sanded/polished until within spec. After the crank has been repaired, you need to measure the bearing clearance and use the correct size bearings for your engine's specified tolerance. Not only that but you need a torque wrench with proper torque specs for any type of engine work. It's too bad UA-cam removed dislikes because this video is dangerous and costly.
Did this method on an old Corolla AE-100, 6 years letter haven't had any problems. May I ask, are you a mechanic ?
@@kicksoffs I build these engines professionally and I completely agree with what he's saying. You should go buy a lottery ticket if this method has lasted you that long
Are you an Engineer ? what the heck do you know? "Once your engine Rod-Knock it's going gone" 20$ quick fixes would last 1-2 years or maybe 5 years until your Engine dies. Rebuild and engine replacement costs a huge $, and the car is like 15 years old? Did you learn the math in school?
I would have polished the crank first to eliminate the bearring metal that got melted onto the crank. Since he replaced only one bearring he should have used another set with the fines sandpaper grid glued to the inside of the new bearring to sand down to smoother look. then use a piece of tape to hold them together onto the crank and use a shoe string or a rubber belt to spin it fast by hand for a few times with some water. Then remove and inspect untill smooth finish. sounds hard but not impossible. Ill be doing it to my 2005 Wrx Impreza this weekend
How did it go?
Wow, what a hack! Didn't smooth the journal, no assembly lube, dry bearings, no torque, metal through out the engine... good luck down the road! Probably at one of those corner used car lots as well!
Yup lol pretty down and dirty. I don’t think he will make it 5k miles before that knock comes back.
And what was the alternative? Full engine rebuild? Or engine swap? Either way what the hell does it matter?
Didnt watch the vid did ya bud. He flushed it pulled the pan and changed the filter both flushes n put a magnet plug bolt on. Pretty decent diy if u ask me other then bot lubing and not doing all the bearings
I didn't even read your whole comment but I'm picking this will be dead a thousand or so KS down the road
@@t-dougz6050 bearing material is not magnetic so the drain plug doesn’t do anything. That engine will not last long before knocking again, the journal was too scored. One cylinder has really low compression you can hear it when he cranks it over. I give that engine 5000km max, it sounds like it’s still knocking a bit after the new bearing too
Looks like your data monitor spun a bearing too! Fair play to you, good work!
Everyone knows this is a short term fix, but the car is back on the road. That's what's important. You may get 1000 or you may get 20000 more miles. Do it.
when you get 20000miles from a 500 bucks car. that's long term fix.
Nicccce, I thought that was a huge job pull motor, etc. Thank you
You should pull it and have the crank machined. The crank will be out of round so this fix is likely temporary. The new bearing could fail quickly. The entire engine should be disassembled. Metal flakes from the old bearing can clog oil passages and cause more damage
This is not the right way to do this and will cause problems latter on
Thank you my friend for I am doing this to a 98 Legacy GT right now because I also do not enjoy splitting the block
Tell us how it goes please also good luck
How did it go? I’m thinking of doing it to mine.
Did you do it ?
I hope to god you didn’t do this because it won’t last and there will be tons more problems
First, great work.......Do you know what “Plastigage” is and how to use it?? How about wrapping the crank journal with a strap of crocus cloth and cleaning it up, polish the score marks? I don’t know it they make oversized bearings for Suji’s? There are shims too? Old School....
The way you did it I highly doubt if that worked at all
I did this to my Mitsubishi 3000GT years ago. But you have to torque the rod bearings down or it will still knock. I think my 3000GT was 45ftlbs.
Still good? Did you replaced it cuz it was knocking?
wow never even measured to see if they were the correct size for the clearance and then checking the clearance an engineering magician how long this last let me guess 7 months?
This does not work in cylinder one (front passenger) because there’s some sort of bar in the way. This was in the comments as a response, but I didn’t see it until I wasted a Saturday finding it out myself. I hope this helps someone.
- motor has problem
- grabs a unknown used motor “60k” miles just to fail again instead of fixing original motor
That’s how to subaru bro
@Atmosphere Tuning He's fixing it for 20$, sometimes you only have that much money. Maybe you have still have a job and he didn't. Its called life.
Depends on how the bearing is damaged. If by stupidity, yes it's a great cheap fix. If the bearing got damage by pre-exisitng oil system problem, the new bearing will get damaged again fairly quickly.
I hate how every question is answered except the questions about how long the fix lasted...
Is there a clever way to get the connecting rod cap off because I’m struggling big time with that
Thanks for the video. I am curious how was this repair in a long term? How did you figure out what bearing size/thickness to use?
A proper rebuilt, the crank get polished and you do the measurement to figure out what oversize to use. In this case, I bet it's just the stock size bearing. The crank doesn't look so beat up, It will last long if the engine doesn't have other problems to begin with.
the probablem with this is its just going to happen again since the crank journal was scarred
ok agree with You with 100% ,but question: Is this perfect solution for temporary period some... months? years? of course im doing repairs by my self with my subaru, so i can change rod knocks every month, until when i collect all of oem parts for proper rebuild with new seals, oil pump etc. what do You think? is this good way to safety ,temporary,cheampest and continued use of my engine?
@Top Fuel Less, I didn't see any assembly lube go on.
This was a nice and good video it help a lot of people fixing their car problems.
I have the same problem in my subaru forester xt the engine is knocking too much.I hope I have found the solution to the vehicle,thanks very much for sharing
did you manage to sort it out with the same method?
Would love an update
I sold the car so dont know the state today. Hope people can tell if there cars are holding up.
@@CloudsGarage so to your knowledge it held up for a year without a issue and you have since sold the vehicle?
good video but 99% of the time the crank has lost a few thousands of thickness like the bearing so yes it works and is a little quieter with a new stock thicker bearing and fresh oil but most of the time they sound the same after running a little while good try if it's your personal ride definitely not a retail job
would i need to torque the connecting rod bolts to a certain point?
Prod. by Zarek yes it’s best to ask a dealership of your make what the specs are
Thank you for this video, unfortunately we were sold an Impreza with same issue except 3 of the bearings are bad, luckily just the three that are easy to get to. I too will be selling the car once it’s fixed😅
Hello sir its been 1 year so how it work the bearing till today ? I need to know 😊
Unless the crank is properly polished its just gonna spin the bearings again. Temporary fix
@@dannyr3346 I was wondering about that too, as in how ? I think the forester I bought not only need head gaskets, it makes that same ticking noise....my education is expensive !
Yes tellll usss
Lol I’m considering this on my Outback XT so I could drive it for a month or two before parting it out
Also under another comment OP says he sold the car, “new owner loves it”. Kinda doubt it’s still running on this “fix” though
What about all the bits of bearing metal in the oil passages and the oil cooler ?
What a great way to do it. I have same issue on my EJ255 so I'm gonna give that a go. Why not
You’re gonna end up running into the same problem in a bit. When you throw a rod or bearing, those little metal flakes go throughout your engine. Once you throw a rod, if you don’t take apart the engine and resurface almost everything, that engine is junk.
@@colbygoding8951 true that. I'm rebuilding it. Cheers mate
Thanks bro , i can ride back in the Honda again 😎
How long was engine life after fixing?
Only thee next owner knows 😭💀💀
Hi Bro. How many miles have you driven after this repair?
Yes
He did a 30mph pull and blew up
I'm planning on doing this on my 2009 Forester. After you remove the oil pan what do you need to remove in order to see the connecting rod, like oil pump and everything?
Just the oil pan is enough to expose the rods.
My engine sounded like it had a little knock and then seized up completely you can start it with some effort but it squeeks and rattles. Wont run for more than 10 seconds or so. Has metal shavings. Could this be the culprit?
Ej251 with 143k
damn bro, you didn't even try to clean up that ass nasty crank journal???
Yoo i was wondering the same thing !!!
This guy got ball's
Good job!
Thank you
It would of been helpful if you showed how to get the end cap off as I'm finding it hard to do my EJ25 #4 rod bearing... Plus what is the torque setting getting back together. too much info is missing from your video
I would suggest if anyone does this to also buy the heaviest oil for the first run. Also if possible replace the main bearings too, sometimes requires the engine to be removed...ask me how I know. I also have a good tow plan just in case it decides to act up while out.
Thanks man for this vidio
Very nice video
How long the engine runs after this rod bearing change?
not safe at all but if is that or walk to work i will take this
I need help mine does this exact noise should. I try this
remove your oil pan and feel at the at the bearings, do they have play or are they tight? that's a way to check if this job is needed to be done
Awesome! I want to try this
So you don't need to pull the engine to replace bearings wow. I need to try this.
You can do all the bearings except cyclinder 1 connecting rod. There is a bar in the way. Unfortunately cyclinder 1 and 3 is the most likely to start knocking. However doesnt mean it's impossible I have jist never tried it...
.2. 3. 4. Can be replaced like this .. #1 can't you have to pull apart the engine to get to #1 cylinder.. it not a recommended way but if you on a budget go ahead. Just allow it time to work in ..
I need help so my subi ran low on oil and its starting to make a clicking sound when accelerating
If it’s making a deep thud it’s probably knocking. If it’s lighter it may be piston slap.
@@jacobrowell4041 how can I fix it its a light clicking sound
@@jesusvillanueva2616 Sounds more like tappets if it's clicking. Make sure oil level is now in correct range. Liqui Moly make some additives that can help solve ticking tappets. Like Liqui Moly Mos2 Tappet Stop Noise. You can add it to the engine oil. Not an ad for them but they're one of the trustworthy distributors who's products usually work well.
Injectors can also make a very light similar sound but are usually easier to locate, and is usually nothing to be concerned about there.
@@VenturiLife I still have the knocking sound when I tried to drive the car it'll turn off. Does that mean I have to replace the bearing.
@@jesusvillanueva2616 A knock sound will likely be rod knock which is different to clicking, your knock sensor (detonation sensor) could be shutting down the car I'd say. You may want to try replacing that knock sensor first as if they send the wrong signal to the ECU they can actually induce knocking and one of the reasons the car is shutting itself off I'd say. It's relatively cheap compared to taking the engine apart or doing the kind of emergency procedure shown in this video.
Otherwise I'd say most likely it is main crankshaft bearing going out, and you need to fix it before driving the car again as it can lead to a complete engine failure.
Some more info here on rod knock can be a surprising number of causes. Take it to a professional mechanic for a diagnosis if possible:
quality-coaches.com/auto-repair-shop/is-a-rod-knock-the-end-of-your-engine-as-you-know-it/
Standart size bearing or undersize for replacement in this video?
Standard size
Thank you sir
You are welcome thanks for watching. Just bought another impreza gt with broken gearbox I will start rebuilding very soon so please subscribe dont miss anything :)
Yes, you nailed it; “the cheapest engine rebuild ever”. I really hope you didn’t turn around and sell this vehicle to some unsuspecting person?????
Did you replace #1 cylinder rod bearing? can you gain access at all without splitting the block?
One cylinder is just not possible without spliting the block.
Very helpful vid thank you
I am glad you liked it hope it made you save money
You can change 3 rods but not the forth...this method last a few days after that motor is knock again...i have try it
Would this work on a 2015 wrx?
Off course it will work.
That crank is toast. Did you think to clean the oil galleries?
How long before knock came back?
Still better motor than a Kia from the factory 😂
most definitely
What size does the stock connecting rod bearing? For 2013 wrx
hello, this looks like a very cheap way to fix rod knocking. How long do you think it would last, before its knocking again? Have it started knocking?
Kinda depends on how you drive an the condition of the engine when you do this. If it ran for longer periods of time after it started knocking, then the crankshaft is probably toast. I would say it probably lasts a couple oil changes if you drive conservatively
What kind of tool you used to remove the top nut?
Yes that one was hard to loosen. I used all of my tool there and tried different solutions. Think I ended up using mini ratchet kit and a spanner
I just got that top nut. I see its been a year. Did you get it?
I want to know how long this lasted until it happened again 🤔
This is honestly the stupidest way to fix this problem he I just did so many things wrong now he has one good bearing that rod isn’t torqued down there’s metal in everything now it likely has like 4000 if that till it blows again
People do not do this, within time you wreck your motor even more. The rubbish goes in between EVRYTHING, and gets crushed into your main bearings, heads could be destroyed etc. He also did not replace his oil heat exchanger which is also full of metal most of the time.
I have same issue only problem is the front one in the very back 1 the front 1 leaves no room to get into it do you have any Tips on how to get to the front one?
I can only wish it was the middle ones. I'll be keeping an eye out for your response thank you.
Fiddly job. Shows great knowledge of the engine doing it this way. Torquing it seems pretty difficult would need some kind of extension. Are the EJ255 rods accessible this way?
Probably but I was wondering the same thing. Bought an Outback XT as a parts car but if I could do this fix and have some fun with it for a while first that would be cool. This isn’t a long term fix but it would be interesting for sure and probably worth a shot
@@quintonulm2435 Yep worth doing in a pinch, but you can't really measure tolerances too well with the crankshaft still in there, not impossible but also not a hugely reliable long-term fix.
Can you do this with no2 piston ..will the bearing cap exit the space
Yes you should be able to do no2 piston.
How did you take the rod bearing bolt/stud off ?I thought those were pressed in?
i was so confused by that too???
ANSWERS!!!!!!
It was broke
Lmao I just watched that ....yea it was broke btw don’t ever do this this is a super stupid idea and I’m disappointed someone would lead others to do this it will fail and fail wuick
@@George_gorge Claiming it's stupid while it works is a poor choice of words lol. Makes you look dumb. "If its stupid but works, it isn't stupid".
CAN FA20 fix rod bearing like this way ?
Next time, smooth the crank with sandpaper and a lace and than clean it!
yes next time if there will be any :)
Who else likes the background music
is this process similar for a 02 forester with the ej251 ?
Yes it is
Can this be done with all EJ engine Subaru Imprezas?
Yes you can.
Ok so reading some of these im sorry im a stupid blonde so mine only had a 1/4 of the bearing left to it so i want this to work but i just bought it wanted to do a few minor repairs and flip it this isnt what i call minor. So im changes 3 of 4 bearings as #1 cant get to without pulling motor sanding the shit out of it but u think may not last long what does it need new crankshaft i dont want to rip anyone off like i feel i got when got the car from auction thank u
Jocelyn Barnwell from Montana
Do you use repair size shells, or nominal?
did you clean all the other metal flakes out of the engine oil passages or just left them in there with the new bearings???
😂😂😂
im doing the same exact repair to my honda, did the repair hold up good, or did it spin a bearing again?
Still going strong :)
If you got over 100k miles on your crank it is worn egg shaped and OE size bearings are too small. Got to make up for the lose on the crank. OE size bearings might work for a Subaru with 60k miles.
Joe Smartballs I though the same thing. I had a miata with rod knock on cylinder 4 (common with over heating and low oil) with 245k miles when it blew. Didn’t get oem I wanted to account for the smaller crank (presumably) and they were too much. It locked up the crankshaft.
@@CloudsGarage is it still holding up do you know I know you sold the car or do you know if how long roughly you think it lasted
How long did last this fix? 🤔🤔 I'm planning to do it on my car
How did you get the top nut off of the cap? I cant seem to get enough room to hook the socket or spanner over it i was thinking i might have to bend the spanner a bit maybe
It will take time to remove try different tools maybe the mini rachet set
@@CloudsGarage Cheers mate
Will this work on my 2005 Impreza RS ?
Yes the design should be almost identical.
What about all the bits of metal in
Is this the same layout as the ej208? Or better said all ejs?
Also did you torque anything or just tighten it as much as you can?
Galiba hepsi aynı sen aç bak olursa bize bildir. Abone olmayada unutma kardeşim 😉
@@CloudsGarage herseyi beklerdim, türk olabilecegini beklemezdim😁
Sagolasin video icin. Ilerde denk gelirsem biryerde acip bakarim. Ayni ise yorum atarim tekrar
@@CloudsGarage bu arada sen video atiyorum diyorsan kesinlikle abone oldum😁
How the heck did you torque it
Link for the bearings to buy?
now show me how to do that one thats closet to the front of the car.. nice little bar in the way. like if you got luck like mine
Can you do that on a EJ255?
Hi, how is it holding up? Is it still running?
I sold the car new owner loves it.
@@CloudsGarage you know if it's still running or how long it lasted roughly do you think
Do those rod bolts come out of the cap? Or are the stuck in the cap?
they are stuck but can come out if you hit them. They are only pinned down.
how long did it run?
How may miles did your car have at this time of replacing the bearing?
280 000 km
should haved polish the crankshaft smooth
Crank has to be removed and milled. The crank is too hard to sand. So you're wrong. Nothing you can do but remove it and mill it, and use larger bearings.
Someone in my area is selling a 2009 Impreza WRX for $4,000, the problem is he says "The car has a rod knock in one of the cylinders, the car hasn't been driven since the knock was discovered, don't have the time or money to fix" Not sure if it's a good idea to buy.
Don’t, whenever you throw a rod you need to replace the whole engine.
Should you have the car in gear when rotating the crank or no?
No we only want te engine to spin.
@@CloudsGarage Thanks, my WRX spun a bearing I might have to do this for a temporary fix until I can afford a short block. :(
@@Darkhunter218 how did it go?
@@barlosperez8423 Rebuilt the motor, put another 14k on it before I now am at an issue with possibly the valves, been actin real funny and burning oil out the exhaust
How did you break the torque on the cap bolts
Think I used a spanner and another spanner attached to it for more leverage
Go to Harbor Freight and get a breaker bar. 2’ at least and you can break loose most bolts. I love mine!
A fix that lasts long enough to sell it?😃
how did you torque the bolts???
He didn't :P
Yeah its not done "right" but if that last 20k miles its totally worth it on a car like that.
How to waste $20 (btw that’s a lie with all the oil, filter, sealant you’re over $100) but without properly polishing the crank it’s going to eat through the bearing in a matter of hours.