Thank you very much! When our zone 2 was running, all zones were running. My wife picked up a new Toro sprinkler valve and we watched your video. Afterwards, we replaced our zone 2 valve (just the top part, leaving the bottom part connected to the existing PVC piping as you did in your video). Now all zones work normally. You made it easy to knock this one out of the park.
thanks for the video.without seeing this i probably would have replaced the whole valve rather than just the workings. saved me from cutting into my PVC!
Thanks so much for this easy to follow video. I was able to diagnose and fix a leaky Toro 250 valve. Two additional tips can help, especially if you have to reach down to access the valve assembly. 1. There’s a tiny spring behind the referenced solenoid plunger. Be careful not to lose it, along with the plunger, while changing the solenoid. 2. The solenoid plunger is direction sensitive. The flat end goes inside against the spring and the end with the point faces outward.
I came here just to check the plugger direction, and you answered it here in point 2. But in the video both times it seems that his plunger is upside down @ 3:43 and 6:47
One little tip. If you unscrew and remove the bleeder top part, then you can pull the pressure adjuster wheel straight off. That gives you LOTS of extra room to work on the screws. Also, don't lose the little O-ring that goes between the base and the cover, or the O-ring on the solenoid.
I have a 25 year old toro valve (Model# 53381). It doesn't seem to be available. It looks just like the model in your video. Do you know what I can buy for internal replacement parts?
Thanks for sharing!!! Newbie question, Noticed 3 wires on the re-wire. I have 2 zones stuck on whenever pump turns on at the toro valve where those two zones are I have a random 3rd wire going no where. I assume it goes to and passes through either red or white? Does it matter if + or - ? Thank you if you do answer :)
I have a TORO P-220 1" valve that is having issues. When I open the manual water supply to this P-220 (this is the primary valve that feeds the rest of the system), water leaks from the pressure control adjustment knob. I have video(s) that show this if there is a way to upload/share the file. IDeas? I think I will just buy a new P-220 and replace the entire top assembly of the 20 year valve, rather than try to cut the old P-220 and replace it. Thoughts?
It is much easier to just rebuild the valve with new guts and top and solenoid than to cut the entire thing out and replumb a new valve in. But sometimes that is what you have to do.
Thanks brother! Gonna save this to the library! Never see Toro valves out here in Las Vegas. I’m sure they are out here and this will be great to refer to so I know what to expect when I take it apart.👍
@@bubbleringsdude that valve is $50 in Utah. A male threaded with no flow control might be like $30 though . And may as well get a male threaded for cheaper if your gonna not use the body.
I just replaced all the guts, and the new valve still will not shut off. The guy that sold it to him he said it doesn’t matter if you swap the wires, do you have any suggestions?
It doesn't matter if you swap the wires. Does it stop running if you unhook one of the wires? If so the solenoid/valve isn't the problem, it is energized by your irrigation controller or there is a short somewhere in your wires running to that valve.
I couldn’t agree with you more. I never install toro valves. In this case it really was my only option to fix it. And maybe it will help somebody to see it done.
If you have electricity available, and a water source you can spray the mud away and vacuum out the slurry if you’re in a hurry. Leaves everything clean as well.
If your solenoid plunger (pin) falls out... Be sure to put the Pad Side down. It may look like the pointy side goes down. Nope. (Or valve could have a slow leak, not open all the way, or even get stuck and not turn off. 👀
Thank you very much! When our zone 2 was running, all zones were running. My wife picked up a new Toro sprinkler valve and we watched your video. Afterwards, we replaced our zone 2 valve (just the top part, leaving the bottom part connected to the existing PVC piping as you did in your video). Now all zones work normally. You made it easy to knock this one out of the park.
Awesome. Good job. Glad this helped.
thanks for the video.without seeing this i probably would have replaced the whole valve rather than just the workings. saved me from cutting into my PVC!
Thanks so much for this easy to follow video. I was able to diagnose and fix a leaky Toro 250 valve. Two additional tips can help, especially if you have to reach down to access the valve assembly.
1. There’s a tiny spring behind the referenced solenoid plunger. Be careful not to lose it, along with the plunger, while changing the solenoid.
2. The solenoid plunger is direction sensitive. The flat end goes inside against the spring and the end with the point faces outward.
Thanks for sharing
I came here just to check the plugger direction, and you answered it here in point 2.
But in the video both times it seems that his plunger is upside down @ 3:43 and 6:47
One little tip. If you unscrew and remove the bleeder top part, then you can pull the pressure adjuster wheel straight off. That gives you LOTS of extra room to work on the screws. Also, don't lose the little O-ring that goes between the base and the cover, or the O-ring on the solenoid.
Great tip. Thanks.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. It helped a lot
I have a 25 year old toro valve (Model# 53381). It doesn't seem to be available. It looks just like the model in your video. Do you know what I can buy for internal replacement parts?
Just buy the whole valve! It is available I just did a search.
Thanks for sharing!!! Newbie question, Noticed 3 wires on the re-wire. I have 2 zones stuck on whenever pump turns on at the toro valve where those two zones are I have a random 3rd wire going no where. I assume it goes to and passes through either red or white? Does it matter if + or - ? Thank you if you do answer :)
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with this very helpful video!
if i ever see you in person, i owe you a beer and a handshake. thank you for posting this and saving me so much $!
😆 you’re welcome
I have a TORO P-220 1" valve that is having issues. When I open the manual water supply to this P-220 (this is the primary valve that feeds the rest of the system), water leaks from the pressure control adjustment knob. I have video(s) that show this if there is a way to upload/share the file. IDeas?
I think I will just buy a new P-220 and replace the entire top assembly of the 20 year valve, rather than try to cut the old P-220 and replace it. Thoughts?
It is much easier to just rebuild the valve with new guts and top and solenoid than to cut the entire thing out and replumb a new valve in. But sometimes that is what you have to do.
I really like your ways of doing things. What would make 3 zone go out at once? Controller is ruled out.
Did you find out? I would guess chopped wire. Or some sort of electrical issue. Do they turn on manually ?
I have water to the toro 250 valve and power. When I open the bleeder, no water comes out manually like yours did. Any tips?
Thanks brother! Gonna save this to the library! Never see Toro valves out here in Las Vegas. I’m sure they are out here and this will be great to refer to so I know what to expect when I take it apart.👍
Glad to help
Can I replace only the solenoid, so i won't need to take everything apart?
Yes. In Hawaii (2024)..
Solenoid is maybe 18 bucks.
The whole valve is 30.
You may eventually have a new problem when the diaphragm goes, and do what he did.
So, buy the whole thing.
@@bubbleringsdude that valve is $50 in Utah. A male threaded with no flow control might be like $30 though . And may as well get a male threaded for cheaper if your gonna not use the body.
Thanks very much for the video. It helped a lot.
I just replaced all the guts, and the new valve still will not shut off. The guy that sold it to him he said it doesn’t matter if you swap the wires, do you have any suggestions?
It doesn't matter if you swap the wires. Does it stop running if you unhook one of the wires? If so the solenoid/valve isn't the problem, it is energized by your irrigation controller or there is a short somewhere in your wires running to that valve.
What part Texas are you in? I live in the Dallas Ft worth area.
Thank you for your help. God bless!
Thanks! Great video. Just the info I was looking for.
This was the best video
Technically in my experience. The only way to fix a toro. Is to replace it with a different brand. Preferably rain bird or hunter
I couldn’t agree with you more. I never install toro valves. In this case it really was my only option to fix it. And maybe it will help somebody to see it done.
So helpful. Thank you!
If you have electricity available, and a water source you can spray the mud away and vacuum out the slurry if you’re in a hurry. Leaves everything clean as well.
How did you know where to dig?
He may have used an electrical toner (wire tracer)?
Thanks for sharing 🙌
You bet!
If your solenoid plunger (pin) falls out...
Be sure to put the Pad Side down.
It may look like the pointy side goes down. Nope.
(Or valve could have a slow leak, not open all the way, or even get stuck and not turn off. 👀
Point side faces the tiny spring.
Thanks for the help.
Happy to help
Great video 👍
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.