KLR 650 Doohickey Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Tools you'll need:
8 mm socket with small ratchet
10 mm socket with medium ratchet
10 mm wrench
19 mm socket
18 inch or longer breaker bar
Rotor holder wrench
Torque wrench (5 to 130 ft * lbs)
Online directions that I used are here:
www.leftcoastkl...
www.leftcoastkl...
I got all the parts for this job from Eagle Manufacturing & Engineering: eagle-m-e.com/
I drained the oil to replace the doohickey. I can't say from firsthand experience if this is the easiest or best way.
This was my first time dooing the doo. I've put about 1000 miles on the bike since with no problems. I'd call it a successful installation.
Instructon will be succint due to text limitations.
Remove the skid plate (three 10 mm bolts (2008: four 10 mm bolts).
Remove the shift lever (one 10 mm bolt. Use the wrench).
Remove the counter sprocket cover (three 10 mm bolts).
If you drained the oil, PUT THE OIL PLUG BACK AND TORQUE IT TO 17 (2008: 21) FT * LBS NOW!
Gently unplug the green neutral wire and wiggle the wire out of the channel forward of the front sprocket. It will help if you get the wires free of the clip behind where the sprocket cover was.
Remove the ten 8mm outer left side cover bolts.
Carefully and as evenly as possible, pull the outer side cover off. There are strong magnets attatched to the cover, don't be afraid if the cover hops to the side a little. Leave the wires going into the cover alone. Hang the cover from wire from over the seat (or however you want. Whatever works for you).
Remove the starter cluster gears (two sets).
Use the rotor holder wrench, 19 mm socket and breaker bar to break the rotor holder bolt loose - go counterclockwise (anticlockwise for you crazy Brits). It should have been torqued to 130 ft * lbs... put some muscle into it. Be sure the head of the rotor holder wrench is lined up nicely with the rotor, or it will probably jump off. It took me a few tries to get it at the right angle.
Use the (greased) rotor puller and screw it into where the rotor holder bolt was. Same tools as the rotor bolt, but other direction.
Remove the puller. Turn the crank so the groove in the threads is up. If you don't, the woodruff (half moon) key might jump out and run away. Remove the rotor and starter gear. It might be easier if you remove them separately (it was for me). Be aware of the washer that is in front of the gear. There are also two thick washers.
Remove the doohickey adjustment bolt. Remove the doohickey.
Remove the nine 8 mm bolts holding the inner side cover on. The one inside the case is shorter than the rest.
Pull the cover off evenly. Use your thumb to keep the doohickey's perch in place.
Torsion spring: drill hole in aft quadrant of inner cover with supplied drill bit. Remove the coil spring. Leave the lever as a spacer. Website 2.
Coil spring: replace the stock with the new one. Try the longer one first. Website 1.
Put the inner cover back in place (new gasket if old one's bad). You shouldn't need sealant. Torque the bolts to 69 in * lbs (almost 6 ft * lbs).
If you're using the torsion spring, push that against the inner cover as far as it will go.
Slide the new doo in place.
Torsion spring: push the bottom of the doo to the left (clockwise) and tighten the adjustment bolt. Latch the end of the spring into the slit in the doo. Push the spring all the way onto the doo. NO PLIERS! Use a screw driver. Website 2.
Loosen the adjustment bolt and retighten to "snug." For '87 - '95 and '08, put the supplied washer on the adjustment bolt before reinstalling as they don't have a washer (accuracy check, please!)
Oil everything from here on out, except the tapered part of the crank and the inner part of the rotor. Install the twoo thinck washers, the big starter gear, the big thin washer, the woodruff key, and the rotor. Spin the starter gear clockwise as you push the rotor on.
Install a new rotor bolt. Torque it to 85 ft * lbs, loosen it slightly, torque it to 130 ft * lbs. Website 1.
Install the two starter cluster gears. Make sure you have all four washer in place.
It is easier if both dowels are on the engine. Install a new (if the old one is bad) gasket and the outer side cover. Encouragement may be necessary to get the cover all the way on. Lightly tap with your fist. DON'T USE A HAMMER!
Put the out cover bolts back on and torque to 69 in * lbs. Put the rubber grommet back over the adjustment bolt.
If you drained the oil, PUT 2.5 L IN NOW!
Reinstall the sprocket cover, the shift lever, and the skid palte. And you're done!
Please rate and leave comments!
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I changed my doohicky and installed the torsion spring this weekend. I read a step by step procedure and then watched your video. I was ready to refer to your video during the install but I was able to make my way through the procedure without having to refer to it! Hardest part for me was getting the rotor lined up with the woodruff key! Thanks for the video... very helpful to me.
Did my doohickey upgrade today on my 2007 KLR650. When I took everything apart to get to old doohickey, found that the spring had good tension and the old doohickey was in good shape. (4800 miles) Went ahead and put in new doo and torsion spring since the hardest part is getting to it. The hardest part of the process was getting the rotor off and getting the new torsion spring in place. The rest was pretty straightforeward by using your video and Eagle Mike's instructions. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the great video! My 2007 KLR-650 had no signs of doohickey failure, but decided to change it anyway. Found a broken tensioner spring. All in all, after replacement the bike was much quieter, and much safer now. Sure would be ugly to have a rear wheel lockup due to something nasty happening because of a broken spring or doohickey. Thanks Again! Matt - Millville NJ
Thanks for going through the trouble of creating this great video!
I was a bit apprehensive before seeing this, now I am definitely doing it.
Very well put together video! This is one of those videos of a topic that you bookmark, and use it as your 'go to source' for yourself or for sharing with friends. Very clean, clear, careful and explanatory. Well done, and thanks!
Just a quick thank you from here in AZ! Your video made it fun and easy! I did it while on the kick stand. I have yet to put new oil in it this morning, since I did a bunch of other stuff while in service mode: stronger 12.9 sub-frame bolts, carb T-mod, & 16T front sprocket. I love my KLR! I used a smallish electric screwdriver with a sensitive trigger to cut down on the wrenching time. I also used the card board trick to keep track of the screws. Lastly, I only had 9 inner bolts. Thanks
Eagle Mike parts are the best. Did the doohickie on my KLR a couple of months ago just as a "precaution". When I took the cover off for the first time, I found that the factory doohickey had long since FAILED!! Much less noise from the engine now, as the balancer chain now has the proper tension. The doohickey should always be upgraded, even on brand new bikes.
A very good question and not many Doohickey sites answer. I understand that this system takes up slack in counter balancer system chain. The stock is coil spring and replace one is torsion. Both the stock and aftermarket have to be adjusted ocasionally(loosen adjuster allow spring to take up slack due to wear and retighten). I havent replaced mine and I follow recommendation to loosen and bump with rubber mallot so spring takes up slack and retighten. If chain has slack in it it will make noise.
Thank you for making this video. I just Did my Doo last night and your vid proved to be an indispensable tool. Cheers
This upgrade is useful because the stock doohickey and spring are prone to failure (lose spring or broken doohickey or spring). As you can imagine, parts flying around in the engine are not good. One the newer models, the stock spring may lose its tension after very few miles. Some even come with no tension. The upgrade from Eagle Manufacturing is made of a stronger material and is not welded together like the stock one, it is machined. The springs offer more tension than the stock one.
the "grab some soda" with the beer labeled soda, gave me a good laugh. thanks man! My bike has 15k miles as I type this and I'm moving from Indiana-> boston, MA with my family and figured why not just ride it there and have my very first trip ever!. So I want to get my bike into working order before I decide to ride ~1500 miles. So thank you for this video! Great overview and step by step instructions.
People make money off of selling you the parts, that's how it is useful!! I have 46.5K miles on my 08 with no problems and original spring and doo.
Just a clarification, I used my centerstand! Thanks again! Great video
Excellent how-to video and write-up! Thanks for taking the time to do these informational segments! :)
WOW!! i thought it was easyer!! but i am going to do it!! as soon as i can get my hands on an Eagle Mike kit!!!
great video!
Making my life a lot easier with this video. Doing my Doo Hickey Tomorrow.
Thank You.
great video, it will help me a lot, i need to replace both gaskets on that side of the engine and your video will alow me to see what i need before i start.
great video .
Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Awesome video!!! Great instruction!!! This made changing out my stock doohickey so much easier than if I'd have just used my Chilton manual. Thanks brother!
i will be doing this at the upcoming washougal td. i already have the parts from Mike. i can't wait to crack it open and see the inside!
Very nicely done!!! I have an 2011 that I'm sure needs this done. I will have my tablet in the shop and use this as a blow by blow procedure for this job. Thanks again for the post!!!
Thanks.. The video was a big help. It was actually pretty easy to do. The only hard part in the whole process was connecting the torsion spring. Wish the video had shown the best way to do that. btw,,,I have a 2007 KLR with just over 10,000 miles and the stock doohickey and spring were still in excellent condition. It could have waited, but but piece of mind is a good thing.
Excellent video ghotioutofh2o. I have the right tools and now the confidence to go ahead and change the doohicky
WOW! What a very informative Video. Thanks for sharing the experience with the rest of us.
1 of the best vids out there!! Nice you went indepth with what to oil, torque values ect.
another great DIY! greetings from Greece!
Thanks, this video got me through the whole job without a snag. Much appreciated.
I own 03 klr and looked into this before and after buying. When my klr had 8000 miles on it I heard sound similar to spring loaded kick stand on my 71 Bonneville being raised. It was one sudden noise and then normal engine noise. I removed outer alt. cover and loosened the tension bolt on tension lever(doohickey). There was no tension on lever so I knew either lever or spring had broken. When I removed rotor I found doohickey had broke in half at shaft mount area(not visible when rotor on)
Great video. I've heard horror stories about these things rolling around in the engine cases. 5 stars
I think the one sudden noise immediately at start up was due to the engine sometimes "hickuped" at shut down and moved tension sprocket . When started up the spring tensioner assembly would suddenly move and make one time start up noise. It didn't make noise every start up but if your klr does this then tension lever not spring failure at fault. The shaft lever (doohickey) was broke but spring lever/spring good so tension on chain was still there although broken shaft lever allowed it to move.
Outstanding video. That, exactly is my plan for tomorrow.
Great! How'd it go?
Well done!...the Doo is ordered for my 08
Having just fallen victim to the abyss of doom on my '08 (I dropped a 10mm socket down it), it looks like I'll be doing all this. And hopefully finding the 10mm socket inside the inner cover!
Nice to see how i have to try to fix mine soon ... THX
I should be, for the most part. There are a few minor differences that are pointed out in the video description (torques, small washer supplied with the kit).
you rule dude,muchas gracias, estamos aprendiendo mucho.
Nice work. I'm hoping to tackle my 2011 soon...
Thanks for this and all of your KLR videos. I am really enjoying them and learning a ton. I O U many beers. Ride Safe and keep up the good work.
Cheers
Kevan
Pretty much if your bike has more than 1 mile on it, it's time to change it.
It really depends on the luck of the draw for which doo or spring will break and which won't. In my mind, it's better to just do it and get it out of the way. If you don't, there's a much greater possibility of something breaking and causing lots of engine damage.
It is recommended that your replace it. I replaced mine. I got it from Eagle Manufacturing (link in the description).
Great video. I'm waiting for the tools to get my 2013 done.
The way I understand it (2nd hand knowledge, FYI), the '08 doohickies are somewhat improved, but the associated spring is not. The guy that manufactures the new doos (Eagle Manufacturing) has found instances of the '08 spring having no tension left after only 400-ish miles. I think the doo might still be a little loose on its perch. He still recommends the upgrade, as it is a better fit.
(I personally can't confirm any of this; he's the expert on this.)
If you're talking about the seeing new doohickey installed, watch from 7:20 to 7:39.
Thanks for this- I'll be doing one soon and my laptop will definitley be there with your demo loaded :)
Good Job Kid 🤝
@DecaPierce No, just eliminates a potential problem down th road.
@Shortstory123 I would like to add... the CLYMER manual is pretty vague and doesn't seem to cover any upgrades or problems found on the bikes over the years, at least mine does not appear too.
I ordered the manual thinking I was going to jump right in, start reading, do the doohickey upgrade and repair my bike... Not true!
again thanks for the vids!
Thanks for sharing that. It looks do-able for someone with a modicum of skill.
@floydiangreen I'm a fan of the torsion spring myself.
@Inuktuuk Couldn't hurt I don't think. If you got a kit and it came with one (which it probably did if you got it from Eagle Mike, might as well use it.
Thank you for the video. Well done and very helpful!
@7jocco Very fortunate.
@floydiangreen Can you work a drill?
At 6:08 , I point to where I drilled (with the supplied drill bit that I showed).
At 6:16, I have the hole drilled and show how the spring fits in.
Starting at 7:27, I describe torsion spring aspect of the installation, then several seconds later, at 7:34, I point to where the free end of the torsion spring goes. Not gonna lie, but it's a bitch to get seated, and that's using both hands. I couldn't hold the camera and seat it too.
This part doesn't spin. It just takes slack out of the chain that does spin. As the balancer chain wears/ stretches and the guides wear, it gets looser/ noisier. Once every 12,000 miles you loosen the bolt accessed from the outside, the spring pulls on the "doohicky" and takes slack out of the adjuster and pulls the chain tight again, then you very gently re-tighten it. It's just like a cam chain tensioner except that the cam tensioner is automatic, this is manual (why, Kawasaki??).
Awesome video and explanation. Thank YOU!
In another video I watched the guy connected the torsion spring to the doohickey. He said it was the hardest part to do because there was so much tension on the spring and pulling it with pliers it took him forty mins. Why did you not do that step?
Still not seeing the completed installation. How did you get the torsion spring around and into the doo??? that is the most difficult part from what I have read. Would be nice to see how it is done and how it looks when it is done.
Great vid. Doing my doo in a couple hours thanks
why would you back out the bolt before you torque it? Is the new doohickey a different material, what's the difference? I thought it was a part that spun to counterbalance the engine but I'm wondering why you stick that bolt through the slot... cool video
Is the doohickey still a problem? If not, what year did they finally get around to fixing it?
I am trying to decide between a KLR650 and DR650. That they let this issue go for at least a couple of decades does not give me confidence in their engineering/quality control.
Thanks.
Hi, I'm in the middle of doing my "doo," and I pulled the rotor bolt off finally! Now I want to pull the rotor itself off. The wrench keeps slipping every time I go to tighten the rotor puller. ...any ideas as to keep the 1and1/4 inch wrench in place and not slip??? Are there other tools out there that could take the place of a rotor puller and get the same job done??? Can I slip a piece of wood or a cloth covered screwdriver in the teeth of the gear behind?
Your vid has helped me again ! Thanks !
Eagle Mike. Please see the description.
@ALLTHEDORKS
Or a bouncer for that matter. wish it would have shown the new part installed, all I could see was the crankshaft.
Thanks for the vid! Great job! ...OK, I have my kit at home. I noticed you have a footnote in your vid to drill at the 7o'clock position not the 5 o'clock position... that's exactly what my instructions show on photos that were sent with the parts. Is this the case??? I just need to know before I go thru all that work. Also what does that torsion spring look like, once on, and rapped around the doohickey? R U able to send any pics? The CLYMER manual only seems to work with OEM parts.
Not that I know of. Mine kept slipping off too. You just need to hold it really securely.
Great video Thanks for posting
A LOT more pain in the butt than I had assumed! Pretty involved actually
@ghotioutofh2o I'm sure the answer isn't to buy another barrel wrench, but I sure am tempted
Does the new 2008 models come with the improved doohickey or did they keep the old style? Thanks.
I have a 94 and the Adjuster bolt doesnt have a washer, should I add one?
thanks
great vid!
Then why are the springs always found broken or stretched beyond use. Mine was just hanging by the side that connects to the case with the other hook snapped off. I would say that is pretty dangerous as if I were loosen the adjustment bolt, the chain would actually slacken, thus being more prone to slipping time. Kawi made a great affordable bike. A class action lawsuit would eat up a generous amount of their profit fron the last 2 decades. They will never admit their mistake.
The doohickey failure is sort of hit and miss. I did it for piece of mind. My doo and spring were intact when I opened up the engine (so were two others I did, the fourth had a broken spring). I would do to doo.
This is why beer is recommended over weed during installation.
This video was very well done, do you know if this procedure is the same for a 2009.
Thank you sir!
i have a 2006 klr 650 with 5400 miles on it. How would i know when to do the doohickey upgrade.
@floydiangreen The instructions shipped with the parts reference the same pages that I do in the video description.
It really depends on the luck of the draw. There isn't a set time.
The sooner, the better.
i have a 2010 model, which is better torsion spring or traditional doo upgrade?
thank you nice video how long does the stock set up last?
Awesome! Thanks!
Kawasaki is unwilling to admit that they have an engineering flaw. Of all the EM doohickeys installed, I've never heard of a single one failing. Conversely, there are lots of stories of stock doohickeys failing and causing catastrophic engine failure and personal injury, yet Kawasaki still won't do a recall on the part or cover it under warranty.
On the '08+ bikes, there's no tension after as few as a hundred miles or so. Are you saying the tensioner chain should be replaced every hundred miles?
I believe it is that same for the 2009.
do you get detailed instructions if you buy from eagle mike?
Excellent job.... Now why doesn't Kawasaki just make it right in the first place? I guess the same reason you need to re-bore the engine to fix the oil burning issue.... Still love the KLR thou....;-)
Who did he get the new doohickey from?
I replaced mine 30,000 miles ago and have had no problems. I've redlined the engine and had it going at 6,000 rpm all day for days on end.
Do you happen do know if this video is also accurate for the 2008? Btw, thanks for the video! Five stars!
do i definitely need to put in a new rotor bolt when i do this?
big job ! dang
Thanks!
What about us non-drinkers, do you think this is a 'doobie-safe" project? Or would a joint leave one too confused to continue?
awesome vid.
yeah but you do not show the drilling of the hole and the fitting of the spring
Cheers for the video mate, before i watched this i had some faith in myself, i now know im going to completely fuck this up! hahaha. nah but seriously, excellent video.
You didn't answer my question. I'll repost it for you: who did he get the new doohickey from?
Seriously, how much would you have to have to do my 2005?
@floydiangreen Maybe I'm missing your point...?
(I'd trust his judgment on this, BTW)
@floydiangreen Nope, just a regular drill.