I have written you before and you write me back. Your a nice man and watching you and your crew is makes me feel good. I have told you this before that even up to 15 years ago we moved and placed a lot of concrete. Mostly foundations but flat work too. I can’t ever remember if we used water reducer most of our mud was stiffer but you guys work it so easily we’re in Ca the land of fruits and nuts. I nuts for staying here with all the stuff our gov pulls
vibrating bull float. As soon as you explained it, my question was answered! Adjustable vibration. COOL 😊 I feel like we worked in the stone age when I was doing concrete. All this high tech stuff is mind boggling. But I still am fascinated by the good old mag float! It is as mesmerizing to me now as it was then. 😀👍
i will absolutely be buying this product for next season. i ALWAYS vibrate my slabs before bull floating. this takes an extra step out of the process. and ez tilt/rock n roll head and milwaukee battery! feels like its just made for me. thanks for sharing, enjoy your videos as always!
I bought the magvibe from superior innovations. I love it, it’s pretty much the same concept and the owner is awesome. He gives u his cell and if u have any issues he is right on it. Top notch customer service
That battery powered vibrator is some sweet machine. A little out of my league as I don't do the amount of concrete you do. I am sure you will be using this the rest of the year to help your great work. Another good one Mike.
I think just having a little weight like that really works nice it looks like it works nights but using a water redo so I don’t think you need that vibrator I could be wrong
I’m old school I have two bull float one that’s ridges cut at the end that helps the cream come up and the other one to just leave it smooth comes out mint not a fan of all this new stuff coming out nice work
I imagine that would bolt onto a 6' channel bull float as well right? I've been on the fence for a couple months whether to get that or not. One thing is for sure... They are very expensive.
so how is the wiremesh working when its at the bottom of the slab? i always tell the builder to wire on top of the pex. this way you dont have to worry about picking it up and you dont have to worry about your pex floating.
It is bad, IMO. Imaging the mesh holding a carpet of sticks together. Then there will be no (or much fewer) cracks in the bottom (since that's where the mesh is holding back), and all cracks will be revealed in the top. By keeping the mesh in the upper part of the slab, most of the cracks will occur in the lower part of the slab.
@elbuggo well that's not how it works. Concrete cracks for a number of reasons. One main material to prevent cracks is fiber or micro fiber mesh. Wire mesh main job is to keep the concrete together as a whole when it does crack. That's why it's not needed in a garage slab, which they are doing here because the concrete structure surrounding the slab ie poured/block walls. However......... tinsel strength is weakest at the bottom and the Crack occurs here first. Which is why all steel should be at the bottom 10% of your project. Soooooo them having the wire mesh virtually not in the slab as it is laying on the very bottom it renders it completely and utterly useless. Now if they have a customer that wants it regardless of professional opinion the mason should have the knowledge to pick the damn mesh up so it within code specs. slab are mainly 4 inches thick a small pinch with the rake will suffice. Now we're entering the problem with the pex being laid on top of the slab the mesh has to be picked up so thenpex has to enter in area of the slab it's not meant to be. Being on top creates weak spots and pex has a tendency to float and leave bullfloat indentations. To prevent this staple the pex to the foam lay the wire mesh on top. This makes it to where you don't even need to worry about the mesh as it's already in the bottom inch of the slab. I respect Mike's work and experience but we go by the book in Alaska for obvious reasons. Lastly I'm a 21 year concrete mason and I've owned a business for 8 of the years.
@@Doomsday51225 RE: I'm a 21 year concrete mason I'm not, but have had an interest in this subject for very many years. What I guess you are good at, or should be good at, is to get the mud in place in such a way you get your money. It cant be too bad if you want to get paid. But after a while you get what the payers are looking for, and then you deliver that, get your money and move on. You don't have to be best, just good enough. Most people and especially amateurs don't know what to look for, so if it looks good, it is all good. If you are trying to make it all bullet proof, they will hesitate with their approval if it costs money. If they don't get it, they will not pay for it either. These are the things you have experience in, not how to make a bullet proof slab - isnt that so? If I have built this garage or slab, I would first have made sure the drainage was good or better. Then I would have compacted the base well and screeded it that it was flat, even used some find sand to make it perfect. Then insulation and then 2 layers of 6mil poly. Would need some mesh on top of that to tie the pex to. 2ft between the pipes would be fine. Would also need some foam between the slab and the foundation walls and some real wire mesh in the slab. Concrete should be 4800psi, to resist salt and frost. You dont get that with this soup, and the slab must also probably be cured for a month. No saw cuts in the slab. When the slab is even all over, no fixed contact points, layers of poly to slide on, low water/cement ratio, it will not crack.
It will not seal the surface as much as a magnesium float. Then the bleed water can escape easier and not get blocked by a sealed surface. A magnesium *may* seal the surface, not that it always will. A composite float will not (or never) trap the bleed water by polishing the surface.
@@StampIt2X It is not the finish time that is the point here, but if you trap water below the surface, the water/cement ratio will increase, and you get a weaker surface. That is often one of the major points with concrete, that the surface is as strong as possible. Fresno must only be used after the bleed water is gone. Poly or wood are better for keeping the surface open to let the bleed water out, than those magnesium things. If interested, you could watch this short video: _Hand Floats & Darby Finishing Tool Video-ConcreteNetwork_
@@kurtfrancis4621 Could have used less water instead? All extra water after cement/water ratio 0.38 will reduce strength, and it happens fast. 10% extra water will reduce strength with 30% or so. If interested, locate this file: Water-cement-ratio-vs-compressive-strength-of-concrete.png
@@elbuggo I'm not trying to be a dick, but engineering calls it out normally. On large jobs it's pretty straightforward, it's just that Mike on small jobs uses a lot of practices that are inherent in much larger commercial jobs. He's comfortable with that, which is good, which means he's good, but if you're not comfortable with that then you should do the research and figure out what your answer is of the question you asked.
@@nbco55 I don't think any engineer can know that. Water is only 1 of the components in the mix. There are many other variables. Only thing an engineer can know is the strength should be for the concrete and what slump is needed to get it in place. Only the mixing plant can calculate this, because they know what else they have and can have in the mix. Problem is that you cant just add water to the mix to make it more workable for free.
I can make one of those for around $100 dollars. Those guys are robbing people, $900?! All I have seen run around $1000. I can make 1 for $100 for the components. Its a shame these guys are so greedy. I can make one that uses Milwaukee, Makita or Dewalt batteries. I guess people will pay whatever the market will bear.
Епрст, в России всё лопатами ровняется! Технология продумана даже лопат нету у них, замер стяжки электронный, гладилка с вибро, всё четко и думать не надо круто однако. У Нас бетономешалка придет вся чумазая как грех людей, вылет 1,5 метра говнорукав фуф совсем иное. Вы пикап видели его с инстурментов? я в жизни такого у нас ни у кого не видел, нам Ваз буханку дадут и еп№;:%сь с ней как хочешь, зимой гляди от холода конечности отмерхнут к черту, движок в салоне понюхай выхлов + шум дикого двигана фу
В России есть всё. То что вы делаете это лопатами, это не означает что этого нет. Просто при выполнении работ хотят сэкономить на всём. Когда захожу на сайты где продают оборудование, удивляюсь сколько оборудования продают разнообразного. Я в Швеции 23 года жил и работал. Там такого никогда не видел. Хотя там на стройке много приспособлений, а у нас только на сайтах и видел. В реальной стройке всё первобытный век. А что вы имеете ввиду говоря "замер стяжки электронный" ?
Any tool that makes the work easier, and helps the finish product is a win win in my book
I have written you before and you write me back. Your a nice man and watching you and your crew is makes me feel good. I have told you this before that even up to 15 years ago we moved and placed a lot of concrete. Mostly foundations but flat work too. I can’t ever remember if we used water reducer most of our mud was stiffer but you guys work it so easily we’re in Ca the land of fruits and nuts. I nuts for staying here with all the stuff our gov pulls
vibrating bull float. As soon as you explained it, my question was answered! Adjustable vibration. COOL 😊 I feel like we worked in the stone age when I was doing concrete. All this high tech stuff is mind boggling. But I still am fascinated by the good old mag float! It is as mesmerizing to me now as it was then. 😀👍
it's a useless toy
i will absolutely be buying this product for next season. i ALWAYS vibrate my slabs before bull floating. this takes an extra step out of the process. and ez tilt/rock n roll head and milwaukee battery! feels like its just made for me. thanks for sharing, enjoy your videos as always!
I bought the magvibe from superior innovations. I love it, it’s pretty much the same concept and the owner is awesome. He gives u his cell and if u have any issues he is right on it. Top notch customer service
it's a useless toy
Definitely looks interesting. Love the different innovative tools coming to the market. Becareful not to turn up to much. 👌
That battery powered vibrator is some sweet machine. A little out of my league as I don't do the amount of concrete you do. I am sure you will be using this the rest of the year to help your great work. Another good one Mike.
I think just having a little weight like that really works nice it looks like it works nights but using a water redo so I don’t think you need that vibrator I could be wrong
I will eat a ice-cream to have something like this !😅 Great tool in your arsenal !
My wife has something I can just duct tape to mine.
I’m old school I have two bull float one that’s ridges cut at the end that helps the cream come up and the other one to just leave it smooth comes out mint not a fan of all this new stuff coming out nice work
Definitely would be a good tool to add to the collection 👍
I see that caddy
Great job! Don't know for shore Mike but you seemed a bit tired in this video? Have a great day! Peace
Tim from Ohio. I like it. We're do I get. It.
Is that fiberglass the boat float I was looking at one of them online maybe I’ll get one
Nice for a rental shop!!
use a couple rocks for weight works just as good with that mix
👍nice work, nice video
Should help with powdered color hardener release.
I imagine that would bolt onto a 6' channel bull float as well right? I've been on the fence for a couple months whether to get that or not. One thing is for sure... They are very expensive.
Yes, it will fit on most floats!
Wow, what's next? Vibratory mag floats?
Hi Mike ! I wonder the blue plate is metal or ruber- plastic ?
Its funny I just built a prototype of something very similar but mine is a little different and made to go on anything. I havent used it yet but soon.
I dont think u need that w the caddy and the water reducer. U really dont even need the caddy
I was wondering do you prefer the Wire on top of the radiant heat hoses or underneath. Thanks
Nice Mike, less passes with it vs regular bull float?
U forgot to hit record on yur phone?
Will this force the rock down deeper?
what is the name of the company that does the foundation walls and do they have a UTube video link?
How would that do with a Fresno?
It would make a mess. Your aggregate should be consolidated before you put the fresno on it anyways
Where. Do I get. It. At. This is tim from Ohio.
Does it finish the surface enough to call it good and done?
No, the bull float flattens and helps consolidate the fines on the top while pushing the bigger aggregate down.
Why would you use air on something that gets slick finished ??
Radiant maybe?
Just so happened to black to…
Curious why you guys don't use a power screed all the time? Save the back...
Have you seen the smaller robots, that can screed about 1000sqft/h? Example: _Screed robot Clapa Floor Master 130 on large areas_
Where i can get it ?
so how is the wiremesh working when its at the bottom of the slab? i always tell the builder to wire on top of the pex. this way you dont have to worry about picking it up and you dont have to worry about your pex floating.
It is bad, IMO. Imaging the mesh holding a carpet of sticks together. Then there will be no (or much fewer) cracks in the bottom (since that's where the mesh is holding back), and all cracks will be revealed in the top. By keeping the mesh in the upper part of the slab, most of the cracks will occur in the lower part of the slab.
@elbuggo well that's not how it works. Concrete cracks for a number of reasons. One main material to prevent cracks is fiber or micro fiber mesh. Wire mesh main job is to keep the concrete together as a whole when it does crack. That's why it's not needed in a garage slab, which they are doing here because the concrete structure surrounding the slab ie poured/block walls. However......... tinsel strength is weakest at the bottom and the Crack occurs here first. Which is why all steel should be at the bottom 10% of your project. Soooooo them having the wire mesh virtually not in the slab as it is laying on the very bottom it renders it completely and utterly useless. Now if they have a customer that wants it regardless of professional opinion the mason should have the knowledge to pick the damn mesh up so it within code specs. slab are mainly 4 inches thick a small pinch with the rake will suffice. Now we're entering the problem with the pex being laid on top of the slab the mesh has to be picked up so thenpex has to enter in area of the slab it's not meant to be. Being on top creates weak spots and pex has a tendency to float and leave bullfloat indentations. To prevent this staple the pex to the foam lay the wire mesh on top. This makes it to where you don't even need to worry about the mesh as it's already in the bottom inch of the slab. I respect Mike's work and experience but we go by the book in Alaska for obvious reasons. Lastly I'm a 21 year concrete mason and I've owned a business for 8 of the years.
@@Doomsday51225 RE: I'm a 21 year concrete mason
I'm not, but have had an interest in this subject for very many years. What I guess you are good at, or should be good at, is to get the mud in place in such a way you get your money. It cant be too bad if you want to get paid. But after a while you get what the payers are looking for, and then you deliver that, get your money and move on. You don't have to be best, just good enough. Most people and especially amateurs don't know what to look for, so if it looks good, it is all good. If you are trying to make it all bullet proof, they will hesitate with their approval if it costs money. If they don't get it, they will not pay for it either. These are the things you have experience in, not how to make a bullet proof slab - isnt that so?
If I have built this garage or slab, I would first have made sure the drainage was good or better. Then I would have compacted the base well and screeded it that it was flat, even used some find sand to make it perfect. Then insulation and then 2 layers of 6mil poly. Would need some mesh on top of that to tie the pex to. 2ft between the pipes would be fine. Would also need some foam between the slab and the foundation walls and some real wire mesh in the slab. Concrete should be 4800psi, to resist salt and frost. You dont get that with this soup, and the slab must also probably be cured for a month. No saw cuts in the slab. When the slab is even all over, no fixed contact points, layers of poly to slide on, low water/cement ratio, it will not crack.
Have you had any issues with that poly bull float? I heard it messes with the air in the northern part of the country...?
It will not seal the surface as much as a magnesium float. Then the bleed water can escape easier and not get blocked by a sealed surface. A magnesium *may* seal the surface, not that it always will. A composite float will not (or never) trap the bleed water by polishing the surface.
@@elbuggoso in retrospect, poly is better due to a quicker finish time from Bullfloat to Fresno ?
@@StampIt2X It is not the finish time that is the point here, but if you trap water below the surface, the water/cement ratio will increase, and you get a weaker surface. That is often one of the major points with concrete, that the surface is as strong as possible.
Fresno must only be used after the bleed water is gone. Poly or wood are better for keeping the surface open to let the bleed water out, than those magnesium things.
If interested, you could watch this short video: _Hand Floats & Darby Finishing Tool Video-ConcreteNetwork_
Holy moly, look at the blue collar physique on those boys!
Looks awful wet?
Mike uses plasticizer within the mix to make it less viscous (more flowable). It doesn't compromise the strength.
@@kurtfrancis4621 Could have used less water instead? All extra water after cement/water ratio 0.38 will reduce strength, and it happens fast. 10% extra water will reduce strength with 30% or so. If interested, locate this file: Water-cement-ratio-vs-compressive-strength-of-concrete.png
Soup
...and no curing.
Well, yeah that's what plasticizer supposed to do. It keeps the water to cement ratio correct but making it flow like soup!
@@nbco55 What is the correct water to cement ratio? How much water per ton of cement?
@@elbuggo I'm not trying to be a dick, but engineering calls it out normally. On large jobs it's pretty straightforward, it's just that Mike on small jobs uses a lot of practices that are inherent in much larger commercial jobs. He's comfortable with that, which is good, which means he's good, but if you're not comfortable with that then you should do the research and figure out what your answer is of the question you asked.
@@nbco55 I don't think any engineer can know that. Water is only 1 of the components in the mix. There are many other variables. Only thing an engineer can know is the strength should be for the concrete and what slump is needed to get it in place. Only the mixing plant can calculate this, because they know what else they have and can have in the mix. Problem is that you cant just add water to the mix to make it more workable for free.
I can make one of those for around $100 dollars. Those guys are robbing people, $900?! All I have seen run around $1000. I can make 1 for $100 for the components. Its a shame these guys are so greedy. I can make one that uses Milwaukee, Makita or Dewalt batteries. I guess people will pay whatever the market will bear.
Епрст, в России всё лопатами ровняется! Технология продумана даже лопат нету у них, замер стяжки электронный, гладилка с вибро, всё четко и думать не надо круто однако. У Нас бетономешалка придет вся чумазая как грех людей, вылет 1,5 метра говнорукав фуф совсем иное. Вы пикап видели его с инстурментов? я в жизни такого у нас ни у кого не видел, нам Ваз буханку дадут и еп№;:%сь с ней как хочешь, зимой гляди от холода конечности отмерхнут к черту, движок в салоне понюхай выхлов + шум дикого двигана фу
В России есть всё. То что вы делаете это лопатами, это не означает что этого нет. Просто при выполнении работ хотят сэкономить на всём. Когда захожу на сайты где продают оборудование, удивляюсь сколько оборудования продают разнообразного.
Я в Швеции 23 года жил и работал. Там такого никогда не видел. Хотя там на стройке много приспособлений, а у нас только на сайтах и видел. В реальной стройке всё первобытный век.
А что вы имеете ввиду говоря "замер стяжки электронный" ?
thye concrete way to much water its like soup no good
Soups on
Duck tape 2.women.toy on! Same effect, cheaper, even with remote control!!, just embarrassing on the job site
I see that caddy