I make my own glass plate emulsion so maybe this doesn't apply to commercial high speed film. But I found that Kodak D-19 at 1+4 is the very best developer for alternative processes. High contrast, very dense negatives, makes prints with exceptionally wide density range but you definitely need a powerful UV light to avoid very long printing times.
The 510-Pyro negative is under developed for your printing process. To increase contrast, decrease exposure (blacker blacks) and increase development (brighter whites). Add a minimum 50% to your development time, but better yet, double it and hope you’ve over developed and defined an upper limit, then if so, split the difference. Platinum, as you know, wants a long density range in the negative, so take the gloves off (metaphorically).
Interesting test. I use 510 Pyro with FP4+, but I make it myself. There could be minor differences in the recipe. I also shoot HP5 and I find I need to develop that a bit longer than the recommended to get good density. The largest I shoot is 4x5, and I print both silver gelatin and kallitype (gold or palladium toned). For silver gelatin I have found plenty of contrast (usually printing with a grade 1.5 or 2 filter) but for Kallitype, I always digitize and then print from digital negative so can't say anything there. For stand development I use 510-P at 1:499 for 60 minutes, agitate for 1 minute at the beginning, and 10-15 seconds at 30 mins. Unless I make a mistake and horribly underexpose the negative, I end up with good contrast although it does take more time 🙂 I'd be interested in knowing where this experiment has taken you since this video... have to admit that I haven't looked through the channel yet to see if you did a follow up though! 🤣
I make my own glass plate emulsion so maybe this doesn't apply to commercial high speed film. But I found that Kodak D-19 at 1+4 is the very best developer for alternative processes. High contrast, very dense negatives, makes prints with exceptionally wide density range but you definitely need a powerful UV light to avoid very long printing times.
Even though I don’t use platinum palladium, I really enjoy watching the process and experimentation. Great video Matt.
The 510-Pyro negative is under developed for your printing process. To increase contrast, decrease exposure (blacker blacks) and increase development (brighter whites). Add a minimum 50% to your development time, but better yet, double it and hope you’ve over developed and defined an upper limit, then if so, split the difference. Platinum, as you know, wants a long density range in the negative, so take the gloves off (metaphorically).
Agreed, the 510 Pyroed negatives are massively underdeveloped
Interesting test. I use 510 Pyro with FP4+, but I make it myself. There could be minor differences in the recipe. I also shoot HP5 and I find I need to develop that a bit longer than the recommended to get good density. The largest I shoot is 4x5, and I print both silver gelatin and kallitype (gold or palladium toned). For silver gelatin I have found plenty of contrast (usually printing with a grade 1.5 or 2 filter) but for Kallitype, I always digitize and then print from digital negative so can't say anything there. For stand development I use 510-P at 1:499 for 60 minutes, agitate for 1 minute at the beginning, and 10-15 seconds at 30 mins. Unless I make a mistake and horribly underexpose the negative, I end up with good contrast although it does take more time 🙂 I'd be interested in knowing where this experiment has taken you since this video... have to admit that I haven't looked through the channel yet to see if you did a follow up though! 🤣