Thank you for your video, Mike! I am considering the Paul C. Buff Celestial or link monolights. However, I have a few concerns - 1) how safe and reliable are the Balcar mounts in the field? 2) how easy is it to set up different frequencies/groups for multiple lights? 3) how many lights can I manage with the Hub and may they be on different power levels? 4) can I test fire my lights from either the Hub or my Sekonic L-478DR-U? 5) can the Hub be charged while it is on the camera and during shoots? 6) What is the advantage of using a cell phone app? 7) If I use the app first to set up my lights and make changes, can I replace my app settings? 8) how are all lights be updated with firmware or must you do one light at a time? 9) Would you recommend the Fusion TLC Raven over the Hub for shooting? I realize that I must have the Hub for light firmware. 10) are there any other nuisances that you found with the Hub or your lights? 11) would you recommend the Link or Celestial? We have used Profoto and Godox triggers in the past. They are much more intuitive than what I have seen so far on the Hub. Thank you. JP
Hey there, let me do my best to answer your questions as a LOT has changed since I made this video. 1) Balcar mounts are not as strong as the Bowens mount, but that doesn't mean there will be an issue in the field. On a windy day and using a giant octobox, it might not be ideal, but then again, no mount is perfect in that setup. For standard use, I haven't run into any issues with the balcar mount. 2) I really use The Raven now, and there's 4 groups I set with ease, and with the Raven you can easily change power from each group from the nice visual display on the top of the camera. With the HUB? You need to use the Buff app, and it's a pain and not convenient. 3) I don't think there is a maximum amount of lights you can manage, but I don't think that's ever going to be an issue since many lights would be on the same channel, etc. 4) Yes, the HUB has a test fire button. You push down on the scroll wheel. It's not a smart design as you'll accidentally scroll the wheel when you just want to push down. A dedicated test button would have been better. For any light meters (Sekonic, etc.), you'll need to attach a separate cybersync transmitter to the port. 5) I've never tried this, but I don't believe so. 6) The app is the only want to remote control lights individually, unless you want to use The Raven (which is far superior in my opinion) 7) Yes, you can save different lighting setups in the app. But the app is slow and buggy. 8) You must update each light one at a time while using the HUB. It's actuality a terrible system because with the LINK it takes about 15 minutes to update the firmware, and there are MANY times when it will simply disconnect 10 minutes into the process and you have to start over from scratch each time. A micro SD card slot would have been SO much better as per the Einsteins. 9) Yes, I would 100% recommend the Raven over the HUB. However, if you have a LINK for example, you still need the HUB for firmware updates, even if you never use it. I primarily use DigiBees (which I think are the best PCB lights) and use them with The Raven. I never use The Hub in field. 10) Firmware upgrades are terrible, the app is slow and buggy, and the scroll wheel design is not great. So I would recommend the Raven. 11) After using the LINK for a while, I can't recommend it unless you need it rarely for high speed sync (like me). The weight of the LINK is counterproductive, and it's very buggy. Sometimes it will not turn on, and you need a battery pack to "reboot it". The firmware updates are torturous, and if you don't keep the batteries plugged in 100% of the time in the charger, they will "die" (become unable to be used or charged) even if they have essentially never been used. I would highly recommend the combo of DigiBees and The Raven. And if you have ProFoto or Godox strobes, those can be used at the same with with The Raven as well. Hope that helps. Cheers.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography 1. What is Raven? 2. I have Einsteins now. I'm thinking of switching to Link. I mostly shoot outdoors. Using ND filters to get a shutter speed of 1/160. For control and grouping, I have a Pocket Wizard TT1 + zone controller on PowerMC2 flashes. Will I be able to shoot on HSS by just buying flashes? With the synchronizers that I have? Or what is the best solution in this regard. 3. The Nikon Z9 camera has a shutter speed of 1/32,000, but alas, Paul, as far as I understand, maybe only 1/8000? P.S.: Sorry, I use Google translate. Not all words may be correct. But I think the meaning is clear.
I have 3 Einsteins. I bought a Cybet Commander but can't stand using it. The Hub doesn't seem to be a solution either. The Raven is the way I think I'll go.
I can't stand Cyber Commander either. I actually sold my Einsteins and use DigiBees exclusively now with the Raven, with the Hub being my emergency backup.
@@joecapasso3741 I absolutely LOVE The Raven. Use it exclusively for all of my in-studio shoots. I would first try plugging it into a power charger for at least and hour or so and see if it turns on while still plugged into a charger after an hour or more. If that doesn't work, I would contact Raven support, as I've had no issues with it at all.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Yeah my raven died. I had to mail it in today. It's unfortunate because I just ordered two new PCB celestials and was hoping to use it with the celestials, since the HUB seems to not be that great... Can't imagine why they would make a trigger where you need a phone to adjust the power... crazy.
Great review. Appreciate the good work. I take it that this does not have a replaceable battery so that when the one in the unit goes bad it is toast and tossed out? Thanks
Hi Brent, the batteries are non=removable and cannot be replaced. But with PCBs customer service, I believe you simply send the unit back to them for a replacement at a minimal cost. Hope this info helps, thanks.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Thanks. I sent for one and will check it out. A little hesitant that evidently power of the studio lights can only be adjusted with a cellphone and not also directly through the trigger but after this good review I will at least check it out. Pocket wizard is not updating their existing Flex TT6 and/or Mini TT1 triggers to work with the Canon R5 (I'm not buying a $450 trigger) so I need to do something. Thank you again for doing this.
Great review .. I bought my first link800 recently to add to my 3 Einstein strobes .. I didn’t get the hub remote coz I found out that I can control it with the fusionTLC Raven remote and I was so happy that I can finally control all my units with one remote using pocketwizards on Einsteins .. unfortunately, I found out that I cannot update my link unit without the Hub remote and that pissed me off .. now I have to pay $200 just to update my link and I’m not even sure which firmware is installed on the link800 that I have. This is a big issue for me now and it’s huge I. This technological era we live in .. where they can just make things a lot easier .. at least make the updates easier to do like the older units which is the Einsteins. I’m not buying a unit that I’m not gonna use for just updating my units. And that only will make me reconsider continuing with this system after using it for more than 7 years if they are gonna do these limitations to sell more of their products .. I thought that I can do HSS straight out of the unit but hey you gotta buy more products to get that feature .. thought that I will save money using this system but I found out that I should invest in buying Profoto instead since they are available all over the world and not go theogh a lot of hassle and shipping and customs fees to get these units. Unless they do some real changes in the near future or I’ll put a new plan to replace these units.
I completely agree, Ghassan. Making the Hub remote *required* for the LINK firmware updates is really really bad, and I would prefer either a micro SD card slot like you mentioned, or just make it able to have a firmware update direct from the app. I still use the Hub on occasion, but I too use the Raven to remotely control light power natively with the CyberSyncs, making the Hub not required. (Just to note, you can check the firmware version of your LINK via the Buff app.) I personally wanted the LINK strictly for high speed sync capabilities, but frankly I use DigiBees most of the time (no HSS) in my studio and love them. So I completely get the issues with Paul C. Buff in that regard. That said, I've personally never wanted to switch to Profoto or others, simply because the strobe is one thing but the light modifiers are another. I really like the quality of PCB light modifiers, and my jaw drops when I see that a Profoto Beauty Dish is nearly $500, when a Paul C. Buff Beauty Dish of equal or better quality is $80. And since Buff has been around for ages, you can buy used PCB light modifiers on the secondary market for less than that even. I also like the idea of not having to junk a strobe after warranty and being able to have it repaired/updated for a low cost. So I love Buff gear for that reason as well. But I understand that each person is different. But thanks for watching and sharing your input!
How do you like your Fusion? Mine died after 1 year and 1 month... Just had to send it in for repair. Also, my battery drained really fast even when off.
@@joecapasso3741 the battery still getting drained when it’s off .. so before any shoot I have to check its battery to make sure that it’s charged or connect it to a power bank while I’m using it.
Loved the review, very informative. What about the TTL? You didn't mention how well it worked or didn't work. Was the exposures accurate? Have you tried it outside in sunlight with TTL?
Hey Joel, at the time I made this video, TTL wasn't even available. I honestly haven't explored TTL much with the LINK just yet, simply because I use them manually or with HSS. I'll revisit this at a later date, but thanks for the question, it's a good question. And thanks for the kind words! Glad you liked this review.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Hey Mike, what is your method for calculating exposure for High Speed Sync without TTL? Is the Link that consistent with it's power output that you can set the flash to a certain output and take a exposure reading and expect the HSS to give you the same exposure value? Maybe you can combine this with TTL and do a UA-cam video showing if there is a difference in results. Thanks again.
Build quality of the HUB is plastic and similar to the CyberCommander. I personally place it in a case to ensure it will last. (I made a video about the exact case to use for this with a demo.) It wouldn't want to drop this on a hard floor since it's plastic and not that solid. That said, since it's PCB stuff, you can send it back for a repair if you do so. Hope this info helps.
You have both options. When you change the power via the app, it will send a signal to the strobe to raise/lower power, and when the adjust power on the strobe itself, it will also send a signal back to the app to reflect the updated power settings. Hope this helps.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography I can't imagine having to use my phone to connect to a strobe during a fast paced sunset wedding session... Seems like a nightmare.
@@joecapasso3741 Hi Joe, I primarily shoot solo portraits and even then I don't personally use the app. I guess it's a nice option to have, but I use (and love) the Raven. I individually control 4 different groups of lights off the back of the Raven.
Good job as always, Mike. I have a question. I still use a light meter, especially at the beginning of a shoot. Is there a way to use (trigger) the Link and Einsteins/DigiBees with the light meter (Sekonic L-858D-U with built in transmitter). I assume not, but what if you put a pocket wizard receiver in the hot shoe that is on top of the Hub??
Hi Andy, thanks for watching and glad you liked this video. I have a Sekonic too (L-358 with a built in PocketWizard transmitter).The easiest way was perhaps what I did. Assuming you want to stay within the CyberSync system and not use PocketWizards at all, I just bought a cheap used CST trigger (since this was the smallest and has a sync port) and then bought a short compatible sync cord. Plugged the sync cord into my CST trigger, and the other into the sync port on the Sekonic. Then used some velcro on the back of the Sekonic to adhere the CST trigger, along with a bit of black gaffer's tape to tape down the cord (get a really short cord to begin with), and now when I test fire on the Sekonic, it fires all CyberSync strobes! (Just have to change the mode on the Sekonic to the input mode. Works like a charm. Cheap and easy fix, but it definitely isn't an elegant as a built-in solution, but it works just fine. Hope this helps!
So.... can this HUB also be used to control say a off the camera speedlite. Now since they have the Canon version I can set the example on here. I photograph cats at cat shows. I use a 2-3 light setup for my main strobes and then I use a Canon speedlite 430 EX II that is setup behind the platform for the cats. It acts as a backlight for the backfrop color, to give it a glow from the bottom working its way up. Can the HUB be used to also control the Canon speedlite? Or do I have to somehow slave the speedlite off my camera? I'm still after 5 years trying to figure this kind of stuff out. I ask because I am considering upgrading to the Einstein lighting system, but I have know how I am going to still work my backdrop light. Thank you in advance.
The only way to use the HUB with an off-camera speed light is if you have an external PCB Cybersync with a sync cord plugged into the sync cord on the speed light. The HUB works with the PCB Cybersync system. Einstein's are solid, and if you choose, you could go with a PocketWizard MC2 for your Einsteins, a cheap pocket wizard receiver for your speed light, and then a cheap pocket wizard trigger (like a PocketWizard PlusX) instead of the HUB. Since many people have moved away from Einsteins, you could likely find a lot of used MCs or Pocketwizard PlusX's on eBay or locally (Craiglist, FB Marketplace) and have much better results. I would not recommend the HUB unless you need to use the new LINK strobes.
I've been a Buff customer for more than 15 years and have always been pleased with all my purchases until now. I purchase four Links and a HUB remote a few weeks ago and I truly regret it. The HUB remote unit and associated phone app are absolute trash. The HUB continually misfires and the battery life is awful. The mobile app is absolutely useless, it rarely detects all my strobes and everytime the phone comes out of it's lock screen the app has to re-detect all the strobes which takes about a minute. So come on PCB let's get back to the drawing board and produce a useable product. Please design a remote that isn't dependent on an app. I would love to speak with a PCB engineer who can explain why they think this is a good design.
I can see how that's really frustrating. I actually use The Raven as my go-to trigger for all PCB flashes, which are 99% DigiBees these days. I only keep the Hub remote as a backup these days, and fire shots with The Raven. I understand that the Raven is a costly device and one shouldn't need this at all, but just wanted to throw out an option for you if you can't stand the Hub. Heck, if you're not shooting high speed sync, you could also just use a basic used PCB trigger (like a CST2) and then just keep The Hub for firmware updates and high speed sync. Again, not ideal, but just wanted to pass along some options.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Hello Mike! I appreciate the suggestion about using the Raven I will probably do that. It’s just astounding to me that PCB would sell such awful piece of equipment with such limited capabilities. Thanks
@@urbanrump7188 There's no limit. You have four different unique zones (A,B,C,D) to have unique remote control over 4 separate zones, but there's no limit to the total number of strobes. (For example, you could have 2 or 3 different strobes all set to the same power for Zone A, etc.) It can also fire two different brands at the same time (PCB + Pocketwizard) or (Profoto + PCB), etc.
No offense taken at all, and in fact the Hub is one of those devices that is both simple, yet incredibly frustrating. I love the integration with the Buff app, but what I hate the most about the Hub is the actual integration with the Buff app. :) It's definitely a step up from the Cyber Commander, but that is such a low bar since I was never a fan of the Cyber Commander. All of that said, you need the Hub for firmware updates to the LINK, etc. but for day-to-day use, I now exclusively use The Raven because I don't want to access my phone during shoots. The Raven is a far more superior product, in my opinion. Just keeping it real.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography I have the HUB on my Canon 5DMk4 controlling my Einsteins, X-800's and Celestial via my iPad Pro attached to my tethering table (I only do studio product photography). It is my practice to turn on one light at a time and take test shots to dial it in before adding another strobe into the mix. Every time I add a strobe, the app fails to recognize it and I have to close the PCB App completely and relaunch it for it to "see" the light(s) I add - that works about 80% of the time on a first try. VERY FRUSTRATING! No idea if the HUB, the App or both are at fault?
@@Jdikmen I hear ya, man. Since making this video, I attempted to use the HUB + the app, and after a few shoots, frankly, it was just too buggy. I gave up and got The Raven and use this exclusively as my triggering device. It's not cheap, but it's flawless and controls all native PCB CyberSync triggers. I can individually control up to 4 different zones from the device itself and NO APP needed. After using the Hub + the app, there was another negative I didn't like and didn't mention in this video, and that's the look it gives off to a client when you whip out your phone and then adjust lights via the app. It looks unprofessional as client may think you're texting during a shoot (during their time) and I just didn't like that perceived look as well. With The Raven, my phone is in my pocket and I can control lights remotely from the top of the camera. I highly recommend The Raven, and again, I know it's pricey but completely worth it. I made an older video of it as a "first look" way back when it was released. It's fantastic. I till keep The HUB around since I need it for firmware updates to the LINK strobes, but's the only time I use it. Hope this info helps.
I just ordered the Canon Hub to use with my Einstein. Thanks for the instructional vid.
Hi Mike,
The video is awesome!!! It is great to see the HUB at work. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks Mike!
Thank you for your video, Mike!
I am considering the Paul C. Buff Celestial or link monolights. However, I have a few concerns -
1) how safe and reliable are the Balcar mounts in the field?
2) how easy is it to set up different frequencies/groups for multiple lights?
3) how many lights can I manage with the Hub and may they be on different power levels?
4) can I test fire my lights from either the Hub or my Sekonic L-478DR-U?
5) can the Hub be charged while it is on the camera and during shoots?
6) What is the advantage of using a cell phone app?
7) If I use the app first to set up my lights and make changes, can I replace my app settings?
8) how are all lights be updated with firmware or must you do one light at a time?
9) Would you recommend the Fusion TLC Raven over the Hub for shooting? I realize that I must have the Hub for light firmware.
10) are there any other nuisances that you found with the Hub or your lights?
11) would you recommend the Link or Celestial?
We have used Profoto and Godox triggers in the past. They are much more intuitive than what I have seen so far on the Hub.
Thank you.
JP
Hey there, let me do my best to answer your questions as a LOT has changed since I made this video.
1) Balcar mounts are not as strong as the Bowens mount, but that doesn't mean there will be an issue in the field. On a windy day and using a giant octobox, it might not be ideal, but then again, no mount is perfect in that setup. For standard use, I haven't run into any issues with the balcar mount.
2) I really use The Raven now, and there's 4 groups I set with ease, and with the Raven you can easily change power from each group from the nice visual display on the top of the camera. With the HUB? You need to use the Buff app, and it's a pain and not convenient.
3) I don't think there is a maximum amount of lights you can manage, but I don't think that's ever going to be an issue since many lights would be on the same channel, etc.
4) Yes, the HUB has a test fire button. You push down on the scroll wheel. It's not a smart design as you'll accidentally scroll the wheel when you just want to push down. A dedicated test button would have been better. For any light meters (Sekonic, etc.), you'll need to attach a separate cybersync transmitter to the port.
5) I've never tried this, but I don't believe so.
6) The app is the only want to remote control lights individually, unless you want to use The Raven (which is far superior in my opinion)
7) Yes, you can save different lighting setups in the app. But the app is slow and buggy.
8) You must update each light one at a time while using the HUB. It's actuality a terrible system because with the LINK it takes about 15 minutes to update the firmware, and there are MANY times when it will simply disconnect 10 minutes into the process and you have to start over from scratch each time. A micro SD card slot would have been SO much better as per the Einsteins.
9) Yes, I would 100% recommend the Raven over the HUB. However, if you have a LINK for example, you still need the HUB for firmware updates, even if you never use it. I primarily use DigiBees (which I think are the best PCB lights) and use them with The Raven. I never use The Hub in field.
10) Firmware upgrades are terrible, the app is slow and buggy, and the scroll wheel design is not great. So I would recommend the Raven.
11) After using the LINK for a while, I can't recommend it unless you need it rarely for high speed sync (like me). The weight of the LINK is counterproductive, and it's very buggy. Sometimes it will not turn on, and you need a battery pack to "reboot it". The firmware updates are torturous, and if you don't keep the batteries plugged in 100% of the time in the charger, they will "die" (become unable to be used or charged) even if they have essentially never been used. I would highly recommend the combo of DigiBees and The Raven. And if you have ProFoto or Godox strobes, those can be used at the same with with The Raven as well.
Hope that helps. Cheers.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography - thank you so much for your quick response, insight, and candor!
@@MikeMcGeePhotography - thank you very much!
@@MikeMcGeePhotography 1. What is Raven?
2. I have Einsteins now. I'm thinking of switching to Link. I mostly shoot outdoors. Using ND filters to get a shutter speed of 1/160. For control and grouping, I have a Pocket Wizard TT1 + zone controller on PowerMC2 flashes. Will I be able to shoot on HSS by just buying flashes? With the synchronizers that I have? Or what is the best solution in this regard.
3. The Nikon Z9 camera has a shutter speed of 1/32,000, but alas, Paul, as far as I understand, maybe only 1/8000?
P.S.: Sorry, I use Google translate. Not all words may be correct. But I think the meaning is clear.
Thanks for your explanation.
Why the hub has another shoe on top.?
What do I need to get this to work with my alienbees?
I have 3 Einsteins. I bought a Cybet Commander but can't stand using it. The Hub doesn't seem to be a solution either. The Raven is the way I think I'll go.
I can't stand Cyber Commander either. I actually sold my Einsteins and use DigiBees exclusively now with the Raven, with the Hub being my emergency backup.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography How do you like the Raven? Mine won't turn on after a year.
@@joecapasso3741 I absolutely LOVE The Raven. Use it exclusively for all of my in-studio shoots. I would first try plugging it into a power charger for at least and hour or so and see if it turns on while still plugged into a charger after an hour or more. If that doesn't work, I would contact Raven support, as I've had no issues with it at all.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Yeah my raven died. I had to mail it in today. It's unfortunate because I just ordered two new PCB celestials and was hoping to use it with the celestials, since the HUB seems to not be that great... Can't imagine why they would make a trigger where you need a phone to adjust the power... crazy.
Great review. Appreciate the good work. I take it that this does not have a replaceable battery so that when the one in the unit goes bad it is toast and tossed out? Thanks
Hi Brent, the batteries are non=removable and cannot be replaced. But with PCBs customer service, I believe you simply send the unit back to them for a replacement at a minimal cost. Hope this info helps, thanks.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Thanks. I sent for one and will check it out. A little hesitant that evidently power of the studio lights can only be adjusted with a cellphone and not also directly through the trigger but after this good review I will at least check it out. Pocket wizard is not updating their existing Flex TT6 and/or Mini TT1 triggers to work with the Canon R5 (I'm not buying a $450 trigger) so I need to do something. Thank you again for doing this.
Great detailed review. Thanks for covering the challenges you discussed about the hub.
Glad you liked this review and thanks for watching.
Great review .. I bought my first link800 recently to add to my 3 Einstein strobes .. I didn’t get the hub remote coz I found out that I can control it with the fusionTLC Raven remote and I was so happy that I can finally control all my units with one remote using pocketwizards on Einsteins .. unfortunately, I found out that I cannot update my link unit without the Hub remote and that pissed me off .. now I have to pay $200 just to update my link and I’m not even sure which firmware is installed on the link800 that I have.
This is a big issue for me now and it’s huge I. This technological era we live in .. where they can just make things a lot easier .. at least make the updates easier to do like the older units which is the Einsteins.
I’m not buying a unit that I’m not gonna use for just updating my units.
And that only will make me reconsider continuing with this system after using it for more than 7 years if they are gonna do these limitations to sell more of their products .. I thought that I can do HSS straight out of the unit but hey you gotta buy more products to get that feature .. thought that I will save money using this system but I found out that I should invest in buying Profoto instead since they are available all over the world and not go theogh a lot of hassle and shipping and customs fees to get these units.
Unless they do some real changes in the near future or I’ll put a new plan to replace these units.
I completely agree, Ghassan. Making the Hub remote *required* for the LINK firmware updates is really really bad, and I would prefer either a micro SD card slot like you mentioned, or just make it able to have a firmware update direct from the app. I still use the Hub on occasion, but I too use the Raven to remotely control light power natively with the CyberSyncs, making the Hub not required. (Just to note, you can check the firmware version of your LINK via the Buff app.) I personally wanted the LINK strictly for high speed sync capabilities, but frankly I use DigiBees most of the time (no HSS) in my studio and love them. So I completely get the issues with Paul C. Buff in that regard.
That said, I've personally never wanted to switch to Profoto or others, simply because the strobe is one thing but the light modifiers are another. I really like the quality of PCB light modifiers, and my jaw drops when I see that a Profoto Beauty Dish is nearly $500, when a Paul C. Buff Beauty Dish of equal or better quality is $80. And since Buff has been around for ages, you can buy used PCB light modifiers on the secondary market for less than that even. I also like the idea of not having to junk a strobe after warranty and being able to have it repaired/updated for a low cost. So I love Buff gear for that reason as well. But I understand that each person is different. But thanks for watching and sharing your input!
How do you like your Fusion? Mine died after 1 year and 1 month... Just had to send it in for repair. Also, my battery drained really fast even when off.
@@joecapasso3741 the battery still getting drained when it’s off .. so before any shoot I have to check its battery to make sure that it’s charged or connect it to a power bank while I’m using it.
Nice video ,, well done
So does this act as a transmitter? Or do you still need a transmitter
will this work on my sony a7
Will the hub work with my canon EOS M50 along with my alien bee
Loved the review, very informative. What about the TTL? You didn't mention how well it worked or didn't work. Was the exposures accurate? Have you tried it outside in sunlight with TTL?
Hey Joel, at the time I made this video, TTL wasn't even available. I honestly haven't explored TTL much with the LINK just yet, simply because I use them manually or with HSS. I'll revisit this at a later date, but thanks for the question, it's a good question. And thanks for the kind words! Glad you liked this review.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Hey Mike, what is your method for calculating exposure for High Speed Sync without TTL? Is the Link that consistent with it's power output that you can set the flash to a certain output and take a exposure reading and expect the HSS to give you the same exposure value? Maybe you can combine this with TTL and do a UA-cam video showing if there is a difference in results. Thanks again.
How is the build quality? Do you feel like it's going to last?
Build quality of the HUB is plastic and similar to the CyberCommander. I personally place it in a case to ensure it will last. (I made a video about the exact case to use for this with a demo.) It wouldn't want to drop this on a hard floor since it's plastic and not that solid. That said, since it's PCB stuff, you can send it back for a repair if you do so. Hope this info helps.
is the only way to change power levels of each strobe physically change it on the strobe itself or use the app on the your phone?
You have both options. When you change the power via the app, it will send a signal to the strobe to raise/lower power, and when the adjust power on the strobe itself, it will also send a signal back to the app to reflect the updated power settings. Hope this helps.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography I can't imagine having to use my phone to connect to a strobe during a fast paced sunset wedding session... Seems like a nightmare.
@@joecapasso3741 Hi Joe, I primarily shoot solo portraits and even then I don't personally use the app. I guess it's a nice option to have, but I use (and love) the Raven. I individually control 4 different groups of lights off the back of the Raven.
does the works on sony a7
Good job as always, Mike. I have a question. I still use a light meter, especially at the beginning of a shoot. Is there a way to use (trigger) the Link and Einsteins/DigiBees with the light meter (Sekonic L-858D-U with built in transmitter). I assume not, but what if you put a pocket wizard receiver in the hot shoe that is on top of the Hub??
Hi Andy, thanks for watching and glad you liked this video. I have a Sekonic too (L-358 with a built in PocketWizard transmitter).The easiest way was perhaps what I did. Assuming you want to stay within the CyberSync system and not use PocketWizards at all, I just bought a cheap used CST trigger (since this was the smallest and has a sync port) and then bought a short compatible sync cord. Plugged the sync cord into my CST trigger, and the other into the sync port on the Sekonic. Then used some velcro on the back of the Sekonic to adhere the CST trigger, along with a bit of black gaffer's tape to tape down the cord (get a really short cord to begin with), and now when I test fire on the Sekonic, it fires all CyberSync strobes! (Just have to change the mode on the Sekonic to the input mode. Works like a charm. Cheap and easy fix, but it definitely isn't an elegant as a built-in solution, but it works just fine. Hope this helps!
So.... can this HUB also be used to control say a off the camera speedlite. Now since they have the Canon version I can set the example on here. I photograph cats at cat shows. I use a 2-3 light setup for my main strobes and then I use a Canon speedlite 430 EX II that is setup behind the platform for the cats. It acts as a backlight for the backfrop color, to give it a glow from the bottom working its way up. Can the HUB be used to also control the Canon speedlite? Or do I have to somehow slave the speedlite off my camera? I'm still after 5 years trying to figure this kind of stuff out. I ask because I am considering upgrading to the Einstein lighting system, but I have know how I am going to still work my backdrop light. Thank you in advance.
The only way to use the HUB with an off-camera speed light is if you have an external PCB Cybersync with a sync cord plugged into the sync cord on the speed light. The HUB works with the PCB Cybersync system. Einstein's are solid, and if you choose, you could go with a PocketWizard MC2 for your Einsteins, a cheap pocket wizard receiver for your speed light, and then a cheap pocket wizard trigger (like a PocketWizard PlusX) instead of the HUB. Since many people have moved away from Einsteins, you could likely find a lot of used MCs or Pocketwizard PlusX's on eBay or locally (Craiglist, FB Marketplace) and have much better results. I would not recommend the HUB unless you need to use the new LINK strobes.
I've been a Buff customer for more than 15 years and have always been pleased with all my purchases until now. I purchase four Links and a HUB remote a few weeks ago and I truly regret it. The HUB remote unit and associated phone app are absolute trash. The HUB continually misfires and the battery life is awful. The mobile app is absolutely useless, it rarely detects all my strobes and everytime the phone comes out of it's lock screen the app has to re-detect all the strobes which takes about a minute. So come on PCB let's get back to the drawing board and produce a useable product. Please design a remote that isn't dependent on an app. I would love to speak with a PCB engineer who can explain why they think this is a good design.
I can see how that's really frustrating. I actually use The Raven as my go-to trigger for all PCB flashes, which are 99% DigiBees these days. I only keep the Hub remote as a backup these days, and fire shots with The Raven. I understand that the Raven is a costly device and one shouldn't need this at all, but just wanted to throw out an option for you if you can't stand the Hub. Heck, if you're not shooting high speed sync, you could also just use a basic used PCB trigger (like a CST2) and then just keep The Hub for firmware updates and high speed sync. Again, not ideal, but just wanted to pass along some options.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography Hello Mike! I appreciate the suggestion about using the Raven I will probably do that. It’s just astounding to me that PCB would sell such awful piece of equipment with such limited capabilities. Thanks
@@MikeMcGeePhotography how many strobes can the raven control simultaneously. Thanks
@@urbanrump7188 There's no limit. You have four different unique zones (A,B,C,D) to have unique remote control over 4 separate zones, but there's no limit to the total number of strobes. (For example, you could have 2 or 3 different strobes all set to the same power for Zone A, etc.) It can also fire two different brands at the same time (PCB + Pocketwizard) or (Profoto + PCB), etc.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography thanks for your help!
No offense but this hub functionality looks pretty sad, and so old tech. Don't get me wrong I LOVE simplicity, but this hub seems to be pretty lame.
No offense taken at all, and in fact the Hub is one of those devices that is both simple, yet incredibly frustrating. I love the integration with the Buff app, but what I hate the most about the Hub is the actual integration with the Buff app. :) It's definitely a step up from the Cyber Commander, but that is such a low bar since I was never a fan of the Cyber Commander. All of that said, you need the Hub for firmware updates to the LINK, etc. but for day-to-day use, I now exclusively use The Raven because I don't want to access my phone during shoots. The Raven is a far more superior product, in my opinion. Just keeping it real.
@@MikeMcGeePhotography I have the HUB on my Canon 5DMk4 controlling my Einsteins, X-800's and Celestial via my iPad Pro attached to my tethering table (I only do studio product photography). It is my practice to turn on one light at a time and take test shots to dial it in before adding another strobe into the mix. Every time I add a strobe, the app fails to recognize it and I have to close the PCB App completely and relaunch it for it to "see" the light(s) I add - that works about 80% of the time on a first try. VERY FRUSTRATING! No idea if the HUB, the App or both are at fault?
@@Jdikmen I hear ya, man. Since making this video, I attempted to use the HUB + the app, and after a few shoots, frankly, it was just too buggy. I gave up and got The Raven and use this exclusively as my triggering device. It's not cheap, but it's flawless and controls all native PCB CyberSync triggers. I can individually control up to 4 different zones from the device itself and NO APP needed. After using the Hub + the app, there was another negative I didn't like and didn't mention in this video, and that's the look it gives off to a client when you whip out your phone and then adjust lights via the app. It looks unprofessional as client may think you're texting during a shoot (during their time) and I just didn't like that perceived look as well. With The Raven, my phone is in my pocket and I can control lights remotely from the top of the camera. I highly recommend The Raven, and again, I know it's pricey but completely worth it. I made an older video of it as a "first look" way back when it was released. It's fantastic. I till keep The HUB around since I need it for firmware updates to the LINK strobes, but's the only time I use it. Hope this info helps.