Building A CNC Enclosure (30 dB Noise Reduction) + Milling Wooden Climbing Holds
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Wooden holds: check out wurft.com/ or @wurfttobias on Instagram. Please SUBSCRIBE to support the channel.
In this video, I show how I made my CNC enclosure and how I mill wooden climbing holds with my 3-axis CNC milling machine.
CNC machine: Vertigo MX-1 Neptune
www.phoenix-tech.co.nz/produc...
Facebook groups:
- Home Climbing Wall Forum:
/ homeclimbingwallforum
- DIY CLIMBING HOLDS:
/ 306173267024741
Logic Holds: www.logicholds.com/
______________________________________________
Contents of this video
00:00 - Intro
02:20 - Overview
03:43 - Building the Enclosure
15:34 - Setup Overview / Noise Reduction
19:23 - Milling Wooden Climbing Holds
26:28 - Finished Holds / Outro
______________________________________________
Music from the UA-cam Audio Library.
Filmed and edited by Tobias Wurft.
Thanks for all your support! - Наука та технологія
If someone is interested in buying the enclosure: I am moving back to Europe and I am selling the enclosure (and CNC machine). The enclosure is now in Geraldine, South Island of New Zealand.
That is amazing! Well done sir!!! Really looking forward to your video on workflow and software. Really interesting stuff. Thank you!!!
Thanks Pete!
Nice job I just made one myself. It helps a lot with dust and cuts the noise down as well. I use a security camera and wifi plug as well so I can shut down in the house if I see any problems.
Which camera/wifi plug do you use?
Dope Video, congratz matte
Wow!!! very nice !!!
Awesome video 👌
Thanks Matej!
Nice Job!
Thank you!
Nice idea, thanks :)
Interesting enclosure - excellent soundproofing, but it looks like more restricted access to the machine. I built an enclosure for my first cnc and I'm designing one for my newer machine so all ideas are gratefully received.
You're welcome. This was my first enclosure, so I would definitely make some things differently.
One thing that I would change: the door needs to go all the way down to the bottom of the top enclosure and I would buil a sliding mechanism / sliding table top, so I can easily have access to the machine for maintenance and repairs and I can take it out easily.
interesting for sure, excellent no, even did does work well, I did some major mistakes .. for example, the rubber will isolate vibrations/noise, the rubber is attached to the construction with nails. you need 1 nail that touches the outside plates and you have a noise-bridge. the other things are the ventilation holes for the vacuum cleaner that have no noise damper. the exit of the vacuum cleaner with the damper should be directly mounted on the housing because the noise-damping properties of the hoses are not good.I did not see any attempt to isolate the hole enclosure from the floor, this will not directly reduce the noise in the room, but it will reduce the noise that travels through the concrete slab of the house. over al de result of 45 db is very good, but did you get the best ride for 1900 Au$, ? If you fart out in a room you are already over that level.
Nice 👍
Sehr große Leisung, Respekt ! Grüße aus Berlin
Danke dir! Grüße zurück aus München
And I thought I was a belt and braces kinda guy… great job!!
Thanks!
I have been waiting for another video from you! Once I get my shop back up I plan to start putting stuff out on stabilizing wood climbing holds.
Edit to add that I'm very interested in your take on a CNC approach versus hand crafted. In particular the time and effort it takes and I think the CNC you have doesn't allow for making positive edges? I haven't used one though so I'm just guessing.
Hey Tristan, I add your input to the list! Thanks!
Yes you're right, the CNC can't mill incuts. By changing the angle of the spoiler board, it's at least possible to achieve incuts on one side of the hold. Will cover this in a future video as well.
This is great! I have a plan on building something similar. Do you by any chance have a link to the router bits used milling the climbing holds?
Thanks Niklas! That sounds awesome. These are the router bits that I use:
www.carbidenz.co.nz/long-hard-cut-ball-end-mill-6mm-clone.html
www.phoenix-tech.co.nz/products/ball-6d-0-25shk-2f-16fl-16lbs-58oal
id love to build something like this for my 9014 but i live in Az. so i would have to build in an air conditioner for our 120 degree days for three months of summer. if i were to trap that heat in that the motors produce i wouldnt be able to make anything that takes a long time to cut for maybe 5 months out of the year. very cool build though
Yeah, heat development is a problem. I added some bathroom vents at the top and drilled a 100 mm diameter hole below the CNC and below the vacuum. Hasn't changed much the noise level at all but now, cold air flows from the concrete floor into the enclosure. You could do something similar: air intake at the bottom that is connected to a long, large diameter pipe which is buried in the ground?
Could you give me a link/name for your sound pressure app? That looks like a good one. Great build! My neighbors are going to have to be bothered for now as Plywood is still out of sight here.
Thanks Ronny! I have a new phone since I recorded this video, so not sure which app I was using. If you search for "sound level meter", you will find plenty of similar apps in the app store. I've tested a few of them and it seemed like the absolute values given by these apps deviate a bit, but relative changes in noise level were pretty similar.
Poor neighbors! :)
Nice. I might try something like this. You mentioned it got pretty got in there. Does the CNC machine itself generate much heat while in use?
The spindel on the CNC has 700 W max, so most of the heat is probably generated by the vacuum.
Very nice. I have to build one too. But it’s so expensive 😂
Thanks! Yeah, it's not cheap, so consider wisely if you really need it 😁
Great build! I'm about to attempt something similar myself, so I'm full of questions!
Is the remaining noise coming from the air and cable intakes or is simply coming through the enclosure itself?
I'm planning construction very similar to yours but will be using a Butyl sound dampening product instead of the rubber. Do you have any advice or changes you would make to your design? (other than the venting you've spoken about in other comments)
How has the MX1 been for you? any pitfalls I should be aware of?
Thanks Dan!
The remaining noise comes mainly from the enclosure itself (vibrations), and if the door is not fully closed you can hear it as well.
I personally, wouldn't add any more dampening because the improvements from this level one will be quite small. But if you want to reduce noise level: add more mass! The front door (no polystyrene, multiple layers of plywood and rubber), dampens more than the side walls with polystyrene, even though it has a window (4 x 5mm acrylic glass plus 2 air gaps).
There is mainly one thing that I would change: get rid of the doorstep so it's easier to take the CNC in and out. In my design, I could just raise the table floor but I was too lazy so far.
The MX-1 is a really good machine, quite sturdy for it's size. I had some minor electrical issues, but we figured out it's because I used the machine at some point with a very long extension cord which caused voltage peaks. I got it all fixed and sorted by the manufacturer, who is very good at fixing stuff, very helpful and friendly!
By the way, I am moving back overseas and thus I am selling CNC and enclosure... Let me know if you're interested? (I assume you're NZ based?)
Cheers, Tobi
If you were to rebuild this enclosure would you suggest using the door mass structure for the full box then?
bro thats freakn awesome
Thanks, bro!
One question: does the dust cause any problem if it's not removed while it's milling? Thanks!
The vacuum can get rid of most of the really fine dust. In my experience, there is more maintenance required if you use your machine a lot and don't extract the fine dust. And the fine dust will be everywhere, covering every surface with black stains.
But I don't think there's an immediate impact on the milling process, so if you don't mill much you don't have to run the vacuum.
Hey, as there is still no update video. Mind if I ask how you fixed the heat up issue? And did you change anything else of the enclosure?
I haven't had the time to edit the material yet. I fixed the heat up issue by installing a bathroom vent in the top enclosure and drilling one 100mm diameter hole underneath the CNC and one underneath the vacuum. By installing additional covers, these measures did not increase the noise level but fixed the thermal issue. Other than that, I'm really happy with the enclosure design and there are no changes.
@@wurfttobias
I hope you will be able to finish the material soon :) would love to see that.
I was just about to build myself a CNC enclosure based on your video. But now thanks to that info I also added some space for a blower fan to the design. Way easier to add new features before building it opposed to adding them later. Just finished it yesterday. Thank you very much :)
@@ChromeBreakerD That's awesome, I'm happy to hear that my video and input was useful for you! :)
It'll take a couple of weeks but I will upload the video soon.
Hi Tobias!
You may have answered this question before, in that case I'm sorry. I'm wondering what your process on making symmetrical pairs of holds is and/or if you have any tips on this? Also, have you experimented with using a lathe for creating holds? Thank you, love the stuff you are making.
Thank you Victor!
I assume we're talking about symmetrical handmade holds?
When I started, I used cardboard templates for the band saw cuts. But I think that's only required if you want to make the same pair again. Now, I first cut out one hold with the band saw (90° cuts). Then I flip that piece over and mark timber for the second hold. Second step, I mark the angled incuts on both holds and cut those. From then on, I use the belt sander, grinder, and disc sander as usual but I compare the holds in between. It's not a very sophisticated process but I figured out that over time it becomes easier and easier to make symmetrical pairs.
I've still got old footage of making a symmetrical pair. Might edit and upload that next!
I have used a lathe and it's awesome to make rounded features and then cut the workpiece into smaller holds!
@@wurfttobias thank you for the response and your insight. I will probably experiment with the lathe to create symmetrical shapes and make rounded cuts with a jigsaw since I don't have a bandsaw and straight cuts on the table saw.
Looks like you've been using your CNC to cut model airplane ribs. I would like to know more about that!
Haha! I will ask Chris if he is willing to make a UA-cam video on that! ;)
Ah! I know this video is old. I’m in NZ but where did you get all the rubber material from?
RS Components: nz.rs-online.com
@@wurfttobias oh thank you! What was it called? Mass Loaded Vinyl?
@@dantok neoprene rubber
Hello, Tobias Wurft! My name is Vitalii, I just watched your curious video about an enclosure for CNC router, I am as well thinking about building an enclosure to insulate my CNC machine but I bother about temperature inside it. Is there a warm problem inside your enclosure and if it is maybe you have a solution?
Hi Vitalii, I had some issues with heat development after milling for 2-3 hours. I installed a bathroom vent at the top, drilled a large 100 mm diameter hole underneath the CNC and at the bottom of the bottom enclosure. These measures drastically reduced heat development and didn't really increase the noise level outside. After 6 hours of milling, I still air out both enclosures to avoid running into heat related issues.
@Tobias Wurft I owe you one. It is indeed great advice for my upcoming enclosure building. Thank you for sharing your experience!
@@VSongu You're welcome!
Ein Riesen-Aufwand...Du hast einen superschweren Kasten gebaut, die Tür wird nach einiger Zeit durchhängen, materialbedingt. Was ist mit der Entkopplung zum Boden hin? Die Schwingungen lassen sich damit stark reduzieren.Gewinnst also auch noch etwas mehr Ruhe. Ich selbst habe meine "Paula" in eine fertige Einhausung verbaut und eben entkoppelt. Der Grundgedanke ist wohl immer der gleiche, Staub und Lärm in der Werkstatt zu reduzieren. Ich behalte Dich im Auge...lol...
Die CNC ist dreifach nach unten entkoppelt. Eine Gummimatte unter den Füßen der Maschine, eine unter der Enclosure und eine unter den Füßen der Werkbank. Die Türe hatte sich über die Jahre auch am anderen Ende nicht mal um einen Bruchteil von einem Millimeter gesetzt. Aber an der Stelle darf man nicht an der Qualität des Materials und der Schrauben sparen.
I was thinking of using soundproofing foam with the wedges but I think yours might be better.
What type of foam did you get and where from?
I bought the polystyrene insulation sheets at my local hardware store (mitre10).
@@wurfttobias sweet thanks. Didn't know mitre10 sold them
instalike!!!
Did the rubber work the way you expected?
Absolutely! I'm pretty sure that without it I wouldn't have achieved 30 dB of noise reduction
Rubber is only as good as those nails, nails transfer the noise more efficiently than rubber. If he could found a way not to nail the rubber down it would be a lot better than his "30db" claims.
Is it worth the cost (I mean 4 walls, rubber, etc.) ? I don't get the feeling that a simple cabinet would be much less effective, am I honestly wrong?
It depends. If the CNC is running in a workshop with other noisy tools, you should only build something to keep the dust in. But if it's running 12 hours every day and it shouldn't disturb your workmates/family/neighbors, it will be worth it after a few days.
Would acoustic panels work better than Styrofoam?
Good question. It probably depends on which panels we're talking about. Aren't acoustic panels designed to be attached to a surface to mainly (not only) reduce reflection/echo? The Styrofoam is sandwiched between the plywood. If it's replaced with acoustic panels you introduce quite big cavities in a regular pattern (assuming you use the stuff with a wavy surface). In this case, I think you can definitely hit some interesting resonance frequencies which won't be ideal.
But there are probably also different acoustic panels out there - flat ones - which will work better but are much more expensive. I've used some thick wool felt in the past to isolate a door and it did a great job. I could imagine it would improve sound dampening of such an enclosure further.
Sonopan sandwiched between plywood is the way to go.
Could have put silicone instead. It would not only block , but completely seal the corners IMO
1000 Euros for a soundproof box ... i guess my neighbors will have to deal with the noise then ... lol
It is better to use boards of different thicknesses when building, as using boards of the same thickness can create resonance and transfer sound. To prevent this, different thicknesses of drywall are used around public bathrooms.
That makes total sense. Thanks for sharing!
you are a handsome guy, why not show you some positive love back
The design looks good but in terms of sound insulation it is very ineficent. A screw transmits all vibrations and styrofoam is not good sound insulation. Rubber only works if you use small surfaces and do not put any screws through it. As insulation, you can better use foam rubber and glue plasterboard over it. Make sure that the drywall only touches the foam rubber. If you also line bubble foam rubber on the plasterboards, the sound cannot resonate in the room.
Good points! There are many ways to improve this design, but it's always a tradeoff how much more extra work it is. Also, I personally prefer to still get some audio feedback of what's going on in there in case something goings wrong (which always happens with CNCs). This sound level, where you can have a normal conversation right next to the enclosure, is perfect for me.
If I would improve it, I would probably add more mass, not add any light materials.
@@wurfttobias: Great video, thanks! I had a couple questions that I didn’t see answered elsewhere. 1) Is the rubber that you used made for soundproofing (aka: Mass Loaded Vinyl)?, and 2) do you think the plywood contributes to the noise reduction? I guess you have said that you would go with more plywood, but I’m thinking if it doesn’t help that much, I’d rather go with thinner plywood resulting in thinner walls.
Thanks!
@Bradley Gong Thanks, man!
1) I used the neoprene rubber with Stock No. 5063157 from RS components ( uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rubber-sheets/5063157) ). It's designed to be used for sound-proofing but you can also save some money and buy neoprene rubber sponge sheets that might perform similarly.
2) My previous answers might have been not so clear. I don't think plywood is very good for sound-proofing, but I need it for the structural integrity (drywall and MDF were not really an option, and it's always painful to work with OSB). I would always add plywood IN COMBINATION WITH RUBBER or some other sort of damping material. The door is only made out of plywood and rubber (+ acrylic glass) and it's sound-proofing performance is excellent (way better than the rest of the enclosure), probably due to the increased number of layers and its higher density. If you're on a big budget, the sidewalls could be made this way. I guess it would perform better than replacing the polystyrene with drywall. But I also think that the door performs so well because it's made out of plywood pieces of different sizes (almost impossible to hit one main resonance frequency).
The thinner plywood definitely sounds like a good idea!
Cheers
or just buy VFD spindle and not even think about noise
You can always throw money at it to solve one issue, but then you're still left with the dust problem