Відео

I prefer a 6 to 10 mm wide blade with 6 to 10 teeth per inch.

It depends. If the CNC is running in a workshop with other noisy tools, you should only build something to keep the dust in. But if it's running 12 hours every day and it shouldn't disturb your workmates/family/neighbors, it will be worth it after a few days.

I have used both. A 4 inch belt sander is definitely useful for smaller holds, but a 6 inch wide belt makes a huge difference.

Thanks for the Reply I'll definitely go for this 6"

Sounds like a great project. Unfortunately, I have barely any experience with finishes, just tried oil on two pairs of holds. I don't think you can maintain the wooden texture with any finish that protects the wood against humidity. The open-porous structure of the wood makes it breath and absorb some of the humidity of sweaty fingertips. This makes wood unique when it comes to climbing holds.

RS Components: nz.rs-online.com

@@wurfttobias oh thank you! What was it called? Mass Loaded Vinyl?

@@dantok neoprene rubber

Thanks, Marco! This is still the mini carver. It might look a little bit different because the video is cropped in?

@@wurfttobias thank you mate! I saw you using the mini carver in many proj and today i decided to bought the complete mini carver set! I think it will improve my workflow when i am about to remove a lot of material during the shaping phase of my holds. Thank you so much for sharing your huge experience! 👌🏻

@marcostorchi2752 That's great! I hope you will enjoy the process of learning to shape with a new tool!

Thanks!

I started using countersunk bolts because all the wooden moonboard holds use them as well (so I assume the majority of the wooden climbing holds sold worldwide). I think, for climbing holds it doesn't matter that the countersunk bolts only have a load capacity between 2-3 tons instead of 3-5 tons. There are advantages for countersunk bolts: self-centering, larger contact area (less stress for the wood), reduced protrusion. Advantages for normal bolts: cheaper, easier to drill I personally prefer the look of countersunk bolts and don't like to use additional washers. In my experience, countersunk bolts are also less likely to break holds made out of softer wood because of the larger contact area.

Thanks, appreciate it! The laminated holds should be stronger and basically impossible to break. Furthermore, I can use much cheaper, thinner boards.

That's awesome. Thanks for sharing!

No, you don't need them when using countersunk bolts. But I would recommend using them in combination with normal bolts.

There's nothing complicated going on here. You might wanna look up the definition of "overengineered";)

😂🙈

Thanks, appreciate it!

Thanks for your feedback and input, appreciate it!

Thanks, appreciate it!

I've oiled the top surface of a few holds in the past, just for looks. Wouldn't recommend oiling the grip area because that makes them slippery. I also sand the holds when doing a complete reset. They are basically brand new afterwards, but this won't work with oil or any other finish.

No, I don't think you need them when working with medium to hard hardwood. Since I'm using countersunk screws (plus optional countersunk bolts), it doesn't make sense. Any sort of washer will increase the local pressure and stress on the wood.

@@wurfttobias thanks men your videos helps alot on my project

@@parkour457 you're welcome!

Depends on the conditions. If the wood stays dry, it will last at least for years (haven't tested it any longer), if it gets wet, it's like with any other wood: it darkens or will get grey. So I guess if you seal it, it will stay like that. By the way, the whole process of turning purple happens naturally. It just takes longer (typically days to weeks)

Dang, I was just about to speculate about other woods that would become richer in colour with heat, but most don't naturallt do it over time!

Thanks, Markus! I appreciate it.

Cheers!

That's the Carver's Vise by Veritas. I explain it, and the DIY attachment in this video: ua-cam.com/video/frcskH2AZGk/v-deo.htmlsi=qSKPZsvtpgsLMnU-

You're welcome! You've got exciting times ahead of you. :) On my first climbing wall, I had something around 485 mm spacing, which was plenty in combination with the 22 mm thick plywood. From what I've seen in commercial gyms, you can increase the spacing if you're using enough vertical struts.

@@wurfttobias thanks for the response, I am going to try 485mm spacing with 18mm plywood. I think given the length of the actual wall it wont move to much, but we shall see.. Very excited to finally have a wall at home to train on, BIG DAY.

Definitely 3 sheets! The extra height will make the wall so much more useful and more fun. You will gain 100 % more climable wall area (because the first sheet is only used for feet and low starts) by adding 50 % more to the total surface area. The wall in the video is just not that high because of the ceiling height.

I've never heard of a wall that started to wobble after a few years. There are too many screws, holding everything in place. It's probably more sturdy than houses in some countries. Either it wobbles from the start or there is no movement. But I assume it's different if you're planning on setting up a wall outdoors because of changes in humidity, sun exposure, and temperature...

The first carving disc is the Arbortech Mini Turbo disc on the the Arbortech mini carver, then I use a carbide disc (the red disc) by King Arthur's Tools on an angle grinder

You can always throw money at it to solve one issue, but then you're still left with the dust problem

This is the Carver’s Vise by Veritas with a diy-attachment for climbing holds, which I explain in my "How to" videos.

@@wurfttobias 😅 i have, since commenting, watched quite a lot of your videos. Thank you for responding though! I love the content, hope for more soon

@@cosmoflies5534 Cheers! :)

Bei den kleineren Griffen Rubinie, Ahorn und Ulme. Bei den größeren Griffen Rubinie, europäische Walnuss und beim dunklen Holz weiß ich nicht was es ist.

@@wurfttobias vielen Dank. Hast du ansonsten Tipps wie und wo ich am besten solche Holzstücke beziehen kann?

@@wixwixwix am besten mal bei ner lokalen Schreinerei anfragen, die haben oft Reststücke die man günstig oder geschenkt bekommt.

Ich hab nur mal was vom Makerspace gehört (da könntest du auch welche auf der CNC fräsen). Wenn ich google finde ich noch so was wie das HEI...

Danke dir! Grüße zurück aus München

I'm not promoting anything or paying for any promotion. This video is getting some weirdly increased traffic today from people who are apparently not interested in this topic... where did you see it being promoted?

Thanks, Alex! It's definitely possible, but I don't think it's much fun. The MX-1 is a good, small machine, but the spindel is already slightly underpowered for milling large things out of hard hardwood. So neither would I want to downgrade the spindel nor reduce the stiffness / weight (and thus price of the machine). You could consider going with smaller x and y dimensions (you definitely need the 140 mm z-travel), but I have no idea whether there are machines out there that are as sturdy and much cheaper (the MX-1 is already on the lower price range of good machines).

Thanks, Adam!

Danke dir!