Thank you Susan for your videos. I thoroughly enjoy them. One of your followers was a bit confused about the truss rod' s function. I thought I would comment and hopefully it will help. The main function is to raise the fretboard ever so slightly through the middle frets to allow for a very straight fretboard thusly allowing for a proper fret leveling. Then you can re-adjust by lowering the fretboard for playing without the dreaded fretbuzz. The carbon fiber is to stabilize the neck wood to help with a more stable neck especially if you carry it through the headstock. I know my opinion is my opinion and don't want to offend anyone . Thank you, Tim
Nice sawing. Yes, a chisel is the high precision tool for shaping the corners. You can take the bulk out with a saw first. What's important is that the last cut with the chisel is thin, so the waste doesn't force the bevel down. Chisels are very good at extending flat surfaces.
thank you Susan. i got a question if you don't mind it pertains to necks truss rods and carbon fiber inserts . the question is truss rods are for moving the neck . carbon fiber is to keep it from moving ? i am so confused so i put in a truss rod and 2 strips of carbon fiber to hold neck straight how does the truss rod move the neck ??? thank you
The carbon fibre stiffens the neck, but the truss rod can still adjust it. Some makers use carbon fibre beams in place of a truss rod - the neck doesn’t then move, but it can’t be adjusted either - very tricky to set up properly as you still need relief in the neck
Have been following you Susan for some time. I really like your work and your relaxed way of communicating! I have noticed your woubly wokrbench. I also have that type of bench, so I am going to build a much sturdier one. What type of bench are you going to make? (Roubu type perhaps?)
No don't do that! I nearly always end up modifying the machines I have. My large bandsaw recently had a refit so I could resew 11". It is a question of need. I have a hobby bandsaw like yours and was annoyed with it until I forced myself to take it apart and set it up properly. Every bandsaw I have owned, with a little modification, I have added at least 20mm to the cutting depth. Of course it invalidates the guarantee but these things are designed to fail the day after the guarantee period :) If you opt to drill your holes after you glue the box together and are using 1/4" bolts I have a reverse counterbore that you can use to pocket the connector bolt heads. Used in the aircraft industry to clean up the burr on blind holes. Dead expensive but does the job.
My bandsaw is only a few mm short so even just shaving the end off the guide column might work. A jig is a good idea. I have a step drill which could maybe recess the bolts. Not sure if there’s a structural reason for pocketing the heads of the bolts - is it just aesthetic?
Yes - the American builders do it. It doesn't concern me. Believe me, drilling those holes when the box is together is going to be a whole lot easier especially if you are going to use 2 bolts. You don't have to over-think it either...
Have you ever watched UA-cam videos by your fellow countryman Paul Sellers? He uses a knife wall to assist in starting an accurate saw cut. See here at 8:55: woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/making-straight-edge-information-page/making-straight-edge-episode-1/. Using a knife wall and a finer blade would make the job easier.
Very good Susan .The only way to mill with a router is in steps and that’s exactly what you did .Great work .
Thank you Susan for your videos. I thoroughly enjoy them. One of your followers was a bit confused about the truss rod' s function. I thought I would comment and hopefully it will help. The main function is to raise the fretboard ever so slightly through the middle frets to allow for a very straight fretboard thusly allowing for a proper fret leveling. Then you can re-adjust by lowering the fretboard for playing without the dreaded fretbuzz.
The carbon fiber is to stabilize the neck wood to help with a more stable neck especially if you carry it through the headstock.
I know my opinion is my opinion and don't want to offend anyone . Thank you, Tim
Susan, you amaze me with your approach to solving problems
Nice sawing. Yes, a chisel is the high precision tool for shaping the corners. You can take the bulk out with a saw first. What's important is that the last cut with the chisel is thin, so the waste doesn't force the bevel down. Chisels are very good at extending flat surfaces.
Thanks you...awesome as always!
Going to be one beautiful guitar, Susie!
beautifully done.
It's coming together nicely.
thank you Susan. i got a question if you don't mind it pertains to necks truss rods and carbon fiber inserts . the question is truss rods are for moving the neck . carbon fiber is to keep it from moving ? i am so confused so i put in a truss rod and 2 strips of carbon fiber to hold neck straight how does the truss rod move the neck ??? thank you
The carbon fibre stiffens the neck, but the truss rod can still adjust it. Some makers use carbon fibre beams in place of a truss rod - the neck doesn’t then move, but it can’t be adjusted either - very tricky to set up properly as you still need relief in the neck
thank you
GORGEOUS Princess
Have been following you Susan for some time. I really like your work and your relaxed way of communicating!
I have noticed your woubly wokrbench.
I also have that type of bench, so I am going to build a much sturdier one.
What type of bench are you going to make? (Roubu type perhaps?)
I enjoy your videos immensely. Thank you! Is your outtro music available for purchase anywhere?
Pretty sure I used your background music in a software demo I worked on in the nineties! :)
I hope not - I wrote this piece for this build series
Susan Gardener ah well it couldn’t have been then! I guess my memory isn’t all that good! Great series!
Put a light coat of paraffin on a saw blade for easier cutting.
Make a jig for your fixing holes... surprised you didn't hog out using a bandsaw. Done in 5 minutes!
I can’t get the heel under the bandsaw. I will be getting a decent bandsaw soon (I don’t think I’ll be building one!)
No don't do that! I nearly always end up modifying the machines I have. My large bandsaw recently had a refit so I could resew 11". It is a question of need. I have a hobby bandsaw like yours and was annoyed with it until I forced myself to take it apart and set it up properly. Every bandsaw I have owned, with a little modification, I have added at least 20mm to the cutting depth. Of course it invalidates the guarantee but these things are designed to fail the day after the guarantee period :) If you opt to drill your holes after you glue the box together and are using 1/4" bolts I have a reverse counterbore that you can use to pocket the connector bolt heads. Used in the aircraft industry to clean up the burr on blind holes. Dead expensive but does the job.
My bandsaw is only a few mm short so even just shaving the end off the guide column might work. A jig is a good idea. I have a step drill which could maybe recess the bolts. Not sure if there’s a structural reason for pocketing the heads of the bolts - is it just aesthetic?
Yes - the American builders do it. It doesn't concern me. Believe me, drilling those holes when the box is together is going to be a whole lot easier especially if you are going to use 2 bolts. You don't have to over-think it either...
I won’t drill the tenon holes until I fit the neck but I think I’ll drill the block holes before I glue it in place
Have you ever watched UA-cam videos by your fellow countryman Paul Sellers? He uses a knife wall to assist in starting an accurate saw cut. See here at 8:55: woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/making-straight-edge-information-page/making-straight-edge-episode-1/. Using a knife wall and a finer blade would make the job easier.