This is the kind of hobby where you need to enjoy the process as much as the finished product. I know 99% of people would see that the BOTTOM OF ONE FOOT took 3-4 hours and nope the hell out of there.
A MG granddaddy foot - a clear coat , so much detailed masking 10 layers of paint , panel lining and then water slides - it’s just such poetry to high grade snap builder like me! Such art so much art in this
Like a few others here in the comments, I'm confused about why the Mr Cement was used on the scribing lines. I looked it up and apparently, it helps to soften up ths lines and remove ridges. Thin cement that actually melts the plastic must be used though (not super glue, etc). So my understanding is that it basically "blurs" the scribed line a bit. It makes the edges a bit smoother and makes the bottom (the "floor" of the canyon that is the scribed line) smoother. I suppose the latter would help a lot with panel lining too, with it making the panel liner flow through the line better. Please correct me if I'm wrong, even if just a little.
You’re indeed right sir. It helps blend hard edges and roughy inlines done by the scribbling, pretty much. Must be done with care though, as the cement will melt the plastic and if you’re not careful can damage the piece. If you were to touch it for example, your fingerprint would be stamped in the plastic as if it was moulded into it 😅
@@TamTam-wl5sh yes it was, especially as he re-scribed the panel lines in pit regions, which the sanding sponge either can't reach or have very minimal effect to smooth out the edges.
Well, that looked really good. Considering how often I get bleed through or pull paint off along with the tape, that many masking steps seems like a recipe for disaster were I to try it. Even my bad brush painting skills seem less likely to create big mistakes.
Best tip for masking and avoiding bleed through is.. after masking, paint all around the tape in the colour you don’t want it to bleed in to. Eg.. Say black and white stripes.. you have your piece blac, your put your tape down. Now re spray everything black. Dry. Then spray your white. You’ll never get bleed through this way. Only sharp lines because the 1st coat seals the edges of the tape. Hope that helps 👍
It all comes down to personal preference. Airburshes can be finicky, but if you mix your paints right, the result is a tottaly seamless color change. Same thing with brush painting. If you use a small brush and thin the paint properly, you can blend your brush strokes and achieve a similarly clean finish.
Lovely job! The juxtaposition between the sounds of life and family in the background with the calm music and zen-like focus on the model encapsulates the hobby. It's beautiful in an unexpexted way. What camera do you use?
I think it separates the two surfaces. The lower surface is nice and smooth while the upper surface is rough or matte. The cement also gives the material something to bite into. Overall creates a nice contrast, after all that’s where a lot of wear would be.
Instead of using 100 small pieces of tape, since you scribed the area, you could use 1 large piece of tape, them burnish the edges down around the pads with a toothpick, then take a sharp knife and cut out the pad for the mask. Save some time.
This was my take, too - since the major areas are shades of grey, spray the white first, then the spot of red, mask that, then the darker grey, tape the whole sole, use the edges you scribed to cut out masks for the darker grey pads, remove the rest and burnish the edges with a toothpick, then spray the lighter grey. A much smaller number of finicky narrow tape strips.
Your Shopee link only takes me to the "log in" page for Shopee. I cannot view anything without creating an account on Shopee? I don't want to have to create an account nor log in with my Google account... 🤔
Can you do a specific video for airbrush painting system (compressor, booth, gun, hose, ventilation & etc). Appreciate if you can share what's available and among the best in the local market and where can we get them.
Masking is the one thing that keeps me from doing more of my kits. It takes soooooo long to do, especially for a piece like this. The end result speaks for itself though.
To everyone who asked: He brushes liquid cement around the scribed lines because the cement slightly melts the plastic, which helps smooth out any imperfections in the scribed grooves.
Do you paint primer on the 1st paint layer before painting 2nd layer of paint? Because i primed first but i go straight from 1st layer of paint to 2nd layer
The amount of patience and skill to cut out and apply all those bits of masking is insane. Do you usually cut just a bunch of general shapes out and layer them on the pieces?
Thanks man! Yes you are correct, usually i will cut a bunch of small square and rectangle shapes and layer them on the pieces! I get cleaner result using this method 😁
@@EAGunpla Thanks, I think I'll try that on my next project. Been doing the lazy cut to the shape of the piece/space but it's so easy to scratch up the surface and making everything worse
What type of paint? I use tamiya acrylics and im afraid to use the panel liner fluid over them, the enamel thinner i have is harsh and dissolves the paint as well as the panel liner…
Make sure the thinner you use to clean your panel lines won't react with the acrylic paint you used. I also use a top coat that's not acrylic before I apply my panel lines. Also, I've learned that the zippo lighter fluid is much easier on the paint and still does the job of cleaning up the panel lines.
Google Airbrush Drybooth. They will help your paints cure more quickly so you can do subsequent layers without needing to wait overnight. I have one that allows me to paint of my lacquers after 30min-1hour vs a couple hours or overnight.
it melts any left over fragments of plastic from the sanding stage. To be honest I'm not sure why he scribed and sanded that much anyway - seems overkill to me, but its his process, money and time so I won't argue.
So basically, the technique is to scribe a groove around each detail, making it look like a separate panel, then cut a zillion little pieces of masking tape. I'm not saying that in a disparaging way in the least. It looks great! It's a ton of work, and it looks great!
I used to be into 1/35 scale military models. I recently tried to get back into the hobby, but due to my age I found the parts to be getting too small and they were just too tedious to build. Don't get me started on cleaning/building tank tracks. I got into 3d printing and then painting 1/4 scale figures and it's been great. I've recently had the itch to try one of these because I see such amazing finishes on them. I'm going to sub and keep watching so I can learn more before I pull the trigger on an expensive kit. Thanks!
Definitely go with a high grade. Tons of options available. And for the price? It still blows my mind how they can be so cheap and have so much detail. I like to paint and customize high grades because I can spend so much time on one and get my money's worth out of a $20-$40 kit. If you're good enough you can literally make a high grade look like an MG or PG. Only 1/144 rather than 1/100 or 1/60.
@@calpresto9581 UA-cam loves to delete comment for sometime unknown reasons... So I went and got a highly popular(and$$) MG Neo Zeon Sazabi. It's sitting here on my desk awaiting a paint scheme. I was thinking black/dark grey/gold. It was probably the most enjoyable kit I've put together. Nothing tedious. It basically fell together minus a few small issues that I didn't have to spend much time figuring out.
What brand and color is the gray that you apply on the whole foot ? Incredible work by the way, I've been following you for a while now and your work is just awesome !
Is the technique the cement? Is that to get ride of roughness from scribing out panel lines that you cant reach with sand paper? Love it if so! Like melts it down even..
I understand it adds detail and the work put into this is great and it looks cool and all, but having warning labels on the underside doesn't make sense. It would get worn off pretty quick i reckon.
@@ixph not exactly though. The sides of the raised areas wouldn't be dark gray with a reverse wash. Also, these are simple panel shapes, so masking isn't as difficult as it would be with a complex filigree shape. It's useful to know how to build up paint layers geometrically; so many people focus only on going from light colors to dark, but the shape of a piece is at least as important.
@ i have so many laquer base paint, a thinner with retarder in it (i’ve been using dspiae paint) , is it okay for paintbrushing ? Cause my airbrush is long gone and i hate doing separation on rattle can (the spray area is too wide)
it dissolves the very fine/roughened edges of the scribe line. Tiny amounts are all you need of say, Tamiya Extra Thin. Anything else/thicker will fill the line back in. Similar method can be used on edges to get a clean line/result.
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This is the kind of hobby where you need to enjoy the process as much as the finished product. I know 99% of people would see that the BOTTOM OF ONE FOOT took 3-4 hours and nope the hell out of there.
Tru that
They miss out on the essential part of this hobby: relaxing and taking their time.
Those T-shirts are illegal to sell.
Do you understand?
@@AsHa-y3d Not what I was talking about, kindly leave.
This is why I do most of my painting by hand... 😜
I think watching someone build a model kit is such a great hobby.
A MG granddaddy foot - a clear coat , so much detailed masking 10 layers of paint , panel lining and then water slides - it’s just such poetry to high grade snap builder like me! Such art so much art in this
Pleasure watching you work and I learn so much in the process
Thanks man, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! ❤️
@@EAGunpla hi bang boleh bantu saya perbaiki gundam perfect strike wuji model saya dari indonesia
Love the sound of the scribing along with your soft background music, it feels so relaxing. Has a great ASMR effect on me.
This gundam will forever be in a 'flying kick to the audience' pose. Excellent work!
Why did you put Mr Cement after scribing and sanding around the 2:35 mark?
it melts any residue from the plastic when you scribed, sort of helps balance out the seams too.
How do you cut perfect little circles?!?
I too noticed how he conveniently skipped over that part
I believe there's a tool for that.
You are incredibly skilled!
Why did you use cement around the raised parts after carving panel lines?
Like a few others here in the comments, I'm confused about why the Mr Cement was used on the scribing lines.
I looked it up and apparently, it helps to soften up ths lines and remove ridges. Thin cement that actually melts the plastic must be used though (not super glue, etc).
So my understanding is that it basically "blurs" the scribed line a bit. It makes the edges a bit smoother and makes the bottom (the "floor" of the canyon that is the scribed line) smoother. I suppose the latter would help a lot with panel lining too, with it making the panel liner flow through the line better.
Please correct me if I'm wrong, even if just a little.
You’re indeed right sir. It helps blend hard edges and roughy inlines done by the scribbling, pretty much. Must be done with care though, as the cement will melt the plastic and if you’re not careful can damage the piece. If you were to touch it for example, your fingerprint would be stamped in the plastic as if it was moulded into it 😅
What was the reason for the cement after the scribing, before the paint started? very curious to know why! thank you, and love your work!
i think it helps to smooth things out, in case there is a lil bit of rough plastic, it also help the panel line to flow smoothlu
@@TamTam-wl5sh yes it was, especially as he re-scribed the panel lines in pit regions, which the sanding sponge either can't reach or have very minimal effect to smooth out the edges.
Well, that looked really good. Considering how often I get bleed through or pull paint off along with the tape, that many masking steps seems like a recipe for disaster were I to try it. Even my bad brush painting skills seem less likely to create big mistakes.
If you get bleed thru try a coat of clear first to seal any bleeds then paint.
Make sure to use quality tape as well.. chesp tape sucks.
Best tip for masking and avoiding bleed through is.. after masking, paint all around the tape in the colour you don’t want it to bleed in to. Eg.. Say black and white stripes.. you have your piece blac, your put your tape down. Now re spray everything black. Dry. Then spray your white. You’ll never get bleed through this way. Only sharp lines because the 1st coat seals the edges of the tape. Hope that helps 👍
Cool techniques. As a newbie, I would like to ask about the pros/cons compared to using brush with enamel and water paints for color separation
It all comes down to personal preference. Airburshes can be finicky, but if you mix your paints right, the result is a tottaly seamless color change. Same thing with brush painting. If you use a small brush and thin the paint properly, you can blend your brush strokes and achieve a similarly clean finish.
I recently started watching your videos and love it!
What was the point of the liquid cement into the lines? Improved flow of the oil was? Great results!
Hi, what is the reason or role for the glue (2:19) after scribing and sanding???
Beautiful work! Thanks for sharing.
Lovely job! The juxtaposition between the sounds of life and family in the background with the calm music and zen-like focus on the model encapsulates the hobby. It's beautiful in an unexpexted way.
What camera do you use?
This was a great video. Nice and simple. I need to get better at waterslides. I always move them when trying to dry 😩. Must be using too much setter
Fantasic work! Why do you go around the edges of the foot pads with cement?
I think it separates the two surfaces. The lower surface is nice and smooth while the upper surface is rough or matte. The cement also gives the material something to bite into. Overall creates a nice contrast, after all that’s where a lot of wear would be.
It dissolves any debris left after scribing
Why need to put cement @ 2:28?
Instead of using 100 small pieces of tape, since you scribed the area, you could use 1 large piece of tape, them burnish the edges down around the pads with a toothpick, then take a sharp knife and cut out the pad for the mask. Save some time.
My usual method for canopies/windows. Def work here too.
It can lead to issues, since the surface isn't completely flat and the tape doesn't stretch.
@@Phoenixflame87 Tape does stretch abit, why I said to "Burnish" it with a toothpick before cutting.
This was my take, too - since the major areas are shades of grey, spray the white first, then the spot of red, mask that, then the darker grey, tape the whole sole, use the edges you scribed to cut out masks for the darker grey pads, remove the rest and burnish the edges with a toothpick, then spray the lighter grey. A much smaller number of finicky narrow tape strips.
Thank you for the workflow. Learned a lot.
clean custom build! how long do you wait for the cement to dry before sanding it with 1200 grit?
Your Shopee link only takes me to the "log in" page for Shopee. I cannot view anything without creating an account on Shopee? I don't want to have to create an account nor log in with my Google account... 🤔
Can you explain the plastic cement and what it's used for ?
Can you do a specific video for airbrush painting system (compressor, booth, gun, hose, ventilation & etc). Appreciate if you can share what's available and among the best in the local market and where can we get them.
What is the purpose of applying glue halfway?
Superb work! (y) What exactly does prevent the trick with the thin cement glue in the beginning?
Why did you use plastic cement after sanding?
Masking is the one thing that keeps me from doing more of my kits. It takes soooooo long to do, especially for a piece like this. The end result speaks for itself though.
To everyone who asked: He brushes liquid cement around the scribed lines because the cement slightly melts the plastic, which helps smooth out any imperfections in the scribed grooves.
When do you topcoat, after you do all the colors?
Do you paint primer on the 1st paint layer before painting 2nd layer of paint? Because i primed first but i go straight from 1st layer of paint to 2nd layer
the t-shirt is so cool!😍
What is the benefit of Mr.Cement on panel line?
The amount of patience and skill to cut out and apply all those bits of masking is insane. Do you usually cut just a bunch of general shapes out and layer them on the pieces?
Thanks man! Yes you are correct, usually i will cut a bunch of small square and rectangle shapes and layer them on the pieces! I get cleaner result using this method 😁
@@EAGunpla Thanks, I think I'll try that on my next project. Been doing the lazy cut to the shape of the piece/space but it's so easy to scratch up the surface and making everything worse
@@EAGunpla do you use a die punch for circular pieces?
@2:20 why are you using glue on the lines you just scribed?
I am sure I heard this before but I cannot remember why...
To make the scribes smoother. Basically he melts the micro plastic edges from scribing.
What is the layer of cement after scribing for?
What was your reason for plastic cementing after sanding?
I was just thinking about my gundams feet today.
What type of paint? I use tamiya acrylics and im afraid to use the panel liner fluid over them, the enamel thinner i have is harsh and dissolves the paint as well as the panel liner…
Make sure the thinner you use to clean your panel lines won't react with the acrylic paint you used. I also use a top coat that's not acrylic before I apply my panel lines. Also, I've learned that the zippo lighter fluid is much easier on the paint and still does the job of cleaning up the panel lines.
I struggle so much w masking.... please help...
Can you share the type / brand of paint you used too (both spray and hand paint)? Many thanks!
Why doesn't the zipo liquid remove the airbrush paint?
Because zippo fluid is enamel thinner and not acrylic thinner.
@@ravindranasokakumar1957thanks!
Soon I will follow your Path.
Your my inspiration in Customizing Gunpla Kits❤
What are you brushing on at the 2:22 mark into the lines and what does that do?
Great detail! How long do you wait for the paint to dry in between colors and do you have any tips how to make it faster? Thanks!
Google Airbrush Drybooth. They will help your paints cure more quickly so you can do subsequent layers without needing to wait overnight. I have one that allows me to paint of my lacquers after 30min-1hour vs a couple hours or overnight.
What paint do you use? Acrilic?
i don't understand the applying cement part. Advise?
it melts any left over fragments of plastic from the sanding stage. To be honest I'm not sure why he scribed and sanded that much anyway - seems overkill to me, but its his process, money and time so I won't argue.
Beautiful job! Thanks for sharing.
So basically, the technique is to scribe a groove around each detail, making it look like a separate panel, then cut a zillion little pieces of masking tape. I'm not saying that in a disparaging way in the least. It looks great! It's a ton of work, and it looks great!
I used to be into 1/35 scale military models. I recently tried to get back into the hobby, but due to my age I found the parts to be getting too small and they were just too tedious to build. Don't get me started on cleaning/building tank tracks. I got into 3d printing and then painting 1/4 scale figures and it's been great.
I've recently had the itch to try one of these because I see such amazing finishes on them. I'm going to sub and keep watching so I can learn more before I pull the trigger on an expensive kit.
Thanks!
There are plenty of cheaper options to dip your toes with, High Grade The Origin line is 1/144, chock full of detail, and around $20 USD.
@@Astronopolis thanks for the recommendation. I have a HobbyTown down the road with enough kits to make my head spin. Some up to $250+
Definitely go with a high grade. Tons of options available. And for the price? It still blows my mind how they can be so cheap and have so much detail. I like to paint and customize high grades because I can spend so much time on one and get my money's worth out of a $20-$40 kit. If you're good enough you can literally make a high grade look like an MG or PG. Only 1/144 rather than 1/100 or 1/60.
@TheMugwump1 find a hobby lobby the have a 40% off models every other week. Pick a hg or entry grade and try new stuff.
@@calpresto9581 UA-cam loves to delete comment for sometime unknown reasons...
So I went and got a highly popular(and$$) MG Neo Zeon Sazabi. It's sitting here on my desk awaiting a paint scheme. I was thinking black/dark grey/gold. It was probably the most enjoyable kit I've put together. Nothing tedious. It basically fell together minus a few small issues that I didn't have to spend much time figuring out.
why do you cement your panel lines, is that in place of sanding because of the tight space?
Awesome dedication and work!
question? Why do you use mr. cement after scribing?
Love your videos. Question - why not use masking fluid for this?
how did u cut the circle masking?
What brand and color is the gray that you apply on the whole foot ? Incredible work by the way, I've been following you for a while now and your work is just awesome !
Pretty sure it’s anchoret
Is the technique the cement?
Is that to get ride of roughness from scribing out panel lines that you cant reach with sand paper? Love it if so! Like melts it down even..
How are you measuring each piece of tape that you use for masking? Trial and error or calipers or something else?
Second to comment! This is just insane! love the effort you put into it.
Thank you!! 🙇🏻♂️
question, why are you applying cement after sanding the part like in 2:20 ?
To make the scribes smoother. Basically he melts the micro plastic edges from scribing.
@@Nergicuga Ahh I see, thanks for the knowledge
@@sanibrillianfahmi2729 no worries mate. Have fun building!
Why the cement after scribing? I've never seen anyone do that before and it really piqued my interest
Usually after scribing, there’s uneven lines but hard too see with naked eyes. The cement will melts the microplastics and make the lines smoother. 😁
@EAGunpla i say this with all sincerity, that is sick af
What is the purpose of using Mr cement SP @2:19?
To make the scribes smoother. Basically he melts the micro plastic edges from scribing.
what's the technique? just tape?
What primer you use in the airbrush
What is the next model in the back to basics series going to be?
what kind of paint u use?,
did you top coat it before lining ?
日本人です、、とても素晴らしいです。勉強になります！！
Thanks for sharing
I have a question, what did you use cement for ?
Do you top coat first before panel line?
Another cool tutorial!
Thanks! Hope you enjoyed the video!
how many hours did you work on it? and to finish the model?
I understand it adds detail and the work put into this is great and it looks cool and all, but having warning labels on the underside doesn't make sense. It would get worn off pretty quick i reckon.
You reckon any cement type works to clean up the scribe lines? Or does SP works best?
Any extra thinned plastic cement will work best! Any brand is no problem 😁
@@EAGunpla Why do you apply the cement?
@@EAGunpla
2:18
I'm watching from Japan. I'm always amazed at the level of technology. What do you use to thin cement?
Hi man, im wondering on why did you put cement after scribing?
It melts the remaining plastic particles and dust from former scribing step so you have cleaner surfaces and crisp edges for masking
how long do you wait before masking?
Are you using lacquer paint?
so applying plastic cement on the corners can make the extra detail pop even more? :O i thought it was only meant for sticking stuff lol
the cement will melt any left over after scribbing, which helps with the flow of the panel lining, that is why bro
@@angelguevara7730 OHH THAT MAKE SO MUCH SENSE! THANK YOU I MIGHT GIVE IT A TRY
May i want to ask that what is the purpose the cement after the line scribbling?
It helps to melt the uneven surface inside the scribed lines! It’s an optional step, but it really made a difference! 😁
@ thankyou for the answer! Maybe i will take a try next time I scribble!
Scribe. Scribble is what my nephew did to the wall with crayons at my sisters house!
@@Astronopolis iphone auto correct 😂😂😂 thanks anyway
Such a great work ☺☺
What brand paint is that?
Anchoret! 😁
Fantastic job - now weather it!!! 😊
What paints do you use for airbrush? Is it water based or enamel based?
I’m using lacquer paints! 😁
Such a good time
日本語で失礼します。
私は最近ガンプラを始めた初心者です。
あなたのテクニックと知識がとても勉強になりました。
真似をして私もあなたの様に綺麗なガンプラを作れる様になりたいです。
良い動画をありがとうございます。
I was hoping for a trick to accomplish this. Masking is just standard practice. Nice result.
Masking is definitely standard practice, but I hope you still picked up some tips! 😁
@@EAGunpla I was expecting a reverse wash with light gray enamel over the dark grey lacquer. This would be much faster for basically the same result.
@@ixph not exactly though. The sides of the raised areas wouldn't be dark gray with a reverse wash. Also, these are simple panel shapes, so masking isn't as difficult as it would be with a complex filigree shape. It's useful to know how to build up paint layers geometrically; so many people focus only on going from light colors to dark, but the shape of a piece is at least as important.
For full custom RG RX78-2 ?
Nice job
what paint type did you use for paintbrushing ?
For hand painting i’m using AK interactive water based paints 😁
@ i have so many laquer base paint, a thinner with retarder in it (i’ve been using dspiae paint) , is it okay for paintbrushing ? Cause my airbrush is long gone and i hate doing separation on rattle can (the spray area is too wide)
Well done wish the HG were a little bigger to practice on. 😅
why use cement?
it dissolves the very fine/roughened edges of the scribe line. Tiny amounts are all you need of say, Tamiya Extra Thin. Anything else/thicker will fill the line back in. Similar method can be used on edges to get a clean line/result.
8:56 dalam botol tu apa bang? clear ke?
Those T-shirts are illegal to sell.
Do you understand?
wow you make it amazingggggg
足裏はそのままでも充分カッコいい！
Подозреваю, что кистью это сделать проще и быстрее...см.работу с миниатюрами. Но спасибо за то, что делитесь своей техникой.
would be nice to get a Voice Over of the REASON you are doing each step...
I've tried voice over before, but my voice is a bit high pitch. It's annoying to hear my voice hahahahaha
AI English voice over please
@@EAGunpla lol, we all hate our own voices. However, you are fine. Your work is incredible.
@@EAGunpla if voiceover is not your thing then perhaps captions ? anyway good job and hope we can learn more as well !