I do most service/repairs on my bike .wouldnt trust no dealers.do it yourself.the only person to care about your bike is yourself.cheers for your videos.ive learnt some bits I never knew.good man👍
8 1/2 years later, here I am finding your disc brake bobbin video helpful on my Dyna. Thanks so much for all the knowledge you've shared over the years!
Well done to you, Sir, it's excellent to hear that you've sorted it out. So many riders write to us explaining they have air in the brake hose and cannot bleed properly for trying when all it is is the rotors are flexing due to being jammed up, as you have found! It's not complex but it does take a little understanding of each part of the braking system to be able to maintain it properly so it operates perfectly... well done again and ride safe, Del
Hi James...there is nothing you can put on the disc to prevent rust, obviously....but riding it regularly will rub off any rust and wont hurt at all...if its building up too much then the cover is obviously keeping the bike damp underneath, then leaving the cover off as an experiment and see if they still rust...ill bet they dont do so bad...which proves my theory that covers do as much harm as good..!!!
Hi mate, you need to get the crud out from between the bobbin and its mount. Were you getting lots of rusty crap run out when you rinsed them?...and can they move with your fingers once you taker the bolt out?...
Hi Ian,yeah there are a couple of bikes with solid bobbins,the single only way to do them is by hand using a g-clamp & a postage stamp sized square of inner tube rubber to protect them & then spray away & wiggle! It's more long winded,but gets the job done......I wouldn't sweat it too much, mate, as a bike like that I'm sure, isn't gonna ride in the filthy weather every day, so your discs shouldn't get too cacked up! Hope that helps you, mate, Cheers, Del
Hi Tubbs, there are ways and means, but I thought most bobbins had holes in, never seen them without... what bike have you got - let me know and I'll look them up and see what I can suggest....Del
Hi mate,thanks for your question,first check that you are using the right pads for general road use & not race pads & learn to lay off the brakes a bit,unless they are cheap Chinese discs of rubbish quality,then the only way you're warping them is through too much heat,heat that is kept on them for too long,you could be braking too late & too hard or braking light for too long causing a slow heat build up,provided they are fitted correctly only mis-use will warp them..what bike is it? Del
Hi Del.I was having trouble with brake noise and was thinking the worst seized pistons in the callipers etc, fitted new pads cleaned callipers and pistons still getting brake noise.Then tried the rotor bobbins, seized tight on one side of the whee,l did what you said in the video NO noise now. Fantastic thanks for your help probably saved me a few quid not having to take the bike to the garage.Keep the videos coming.
Really appreciate you taking the time to do these videos Del. Certainly learned my lesson back in January, but now I've got some dough I can start fixing the bike and do all the maintenance work that was waaaay overdue. Cheers, Jon
Too right Ade, half of these garages just want the money for the big job and think you will trust them and the others dont have a clue how to clue... give it a good cleaning like this and it should get a lot better... mine start to oscilate about mid winter and a good cleaning get them back to normal...warping a disc is very rare unless you are braking really really hard a lot of the time and have a high performace bike.... its much more likely they are gummed up.. good luck and well done.. Del.
Hi Terry... had a look at some, and indeed they do appear to be solid...i guess the only thing you can do is use an old tooth brush and scrub all round them while jetting the brake cleaner in the gap...as long as the worst is off then they will still work ok.... hope that helps you out...i didnt think any bobbins would be solid, seems a bit daft, but who are we to question the mighty factories aye..lol... take care, Del..
Hey Del, avid fan! I feel it ought to be mentioned (If it hasn't already) that this isn't possible on all brake rotors. EBC's SD bobbins are not round. Hence the name SD (Square Drive). Trying to spin the bobbins could cause expensive problems! So yeah, check your discs people before you give this a try! Still a top trick to know about for regular discs though!
I'm not convinced that disc bobbins are supposed to spin as freely as this video suggests. I've spoken to technicians (people who used to be called mechanics) at my local Triumph dealer. None of them thought of this as a regular maintenance job, other than to clean with brake cleaner (especially if you allow your bike to get as filthy as this one!).In fact one said 'leave them alone'. EBC now produce discs with flat-sided bobbins. They can't rotate.
brilliant advice been having this problem with my brakes and couldn't work out what it was and almost ordered a new pair of disc's at a cost of near on £400 but this tip of yours del boy has saved me a lot of hassle and unwanted expense thanks and keep up the good work.
Hi Stuart, without a front paddock stand, easiest way is to jack against the side stand...simply put it on the side stand, place a trolley jack under the right hand side of the bike & with a folded rag to protect against damage, jack carefully up under the collector box on the exhaust and it will roll left and the front wheel will come up ...and be careful! Cheers, Del
Hi mate,it sounds a little odd as they are supposed to turn,there should be nothing holding them other than dirt or rust,how much force did you put behind it? Perhaps they are just so bad they are locked?? Make sure you're not bolting up too tight as you could be pinching them against the disc on the back,they only need to be a little more than finger tight, other than that, I've no idea, mate, mine have never not moved! Let us know how you get on, Del
Thanks for this great tip. I cleaned mine yesterday with a tooth brush and brake cleaner. I realise now i only did half a job at the very best! Off to the garage now to do it properly! Cheers.
Hi mate, yes, its a greatly missed little bit of maintenance, but once you've done it, you'll be surprised at the improvement it makes in lever feel and braking response, plus it will prevent you warping a disc in the summer as once they are seized up they cant move about so flex instead... cheers mate, Del.
Awesome tip thanks a lot. Many mechanics I have come across over the years have felt that brake lever moving in and out and insisted the discs need changing without any other investigation. Happened to me many times. Will try this on my latest wobble!!!
@boredofitall The money it saves you Sal is when the bobbins jam up solid and refuse to let the rotor move and expand freely under natural heating and cooling of use.....so they warp.. and a new disc (or pair, as you cant replace just one) costs more then a years wear and tear all on one hit.....
Man, you rock! The squealing is gone, and so is the shuddering. The brake lever "takes" higher up and is a lot stiffer than before, my steel-braided brake hoses are finally working properly. I've reason to believe that since the rotors were stuck before, my braking was mostly about warping the rotors in their holders as they were stuck. Problem is now fixed and I have a new motorcycle it feels like!
Hi Dean.... no, you're fine as long as they spin with the bolt in...if the bike is quite new and the brakes in fresh condition then the bobbins will still be snug and tight from new...its when the dirt stops them doing their job that your braking efficiency is effected....so just make sure they spin round with the bolt in and thats fine... thanks for your kind support... take care, Del.
If the bike is quite new, remember, these are only semi floating discs, not fully floating as on Ducatis where they literally rattle, so they should be firm, but moveable and on a newer bike there is no wear so perhaps they are just still a bit snug, as long as the brakes work ok and all the bobbins are mobile with the bolt in, then that's ok, don't try to over think it, mate, the general rule is that if it rides ok then it usually is ok .. take care Del
Wow thanks a ton man, this fixed my pulsating brake problem, I was worried my brakes were bad, but after watching this I checked them and every single one was seized up, after getting them cleaned and moving again... No more pulsating as I come to a stop. Thank you.
90% chance it will be mate, the bobbins have to be free to move otherwise the rotors will freeze up slightly off centre and there's your pulse..get them spun up and you'll see how much better the brakes are... good luck with it mate.. Del.
Thanks Delboy. Yours is a go to channel for me. I’ve always done the basics on mine and my wife’s bikes (fluids, filters etc) but keen to learn more. Very good explanations. I’ve also bought a Daytona about a month ago which is going to be a track bike. Been using you videos to get it set up right. At 200kph it needs to be right. Winter is also the better riding weather in Australia. Not as hot. Not as wet and of course no salt. Let me know if you are ever in Brisbane and we’ll go for a fang.
Hi Andrew, thanks mate, that's really kind of you, and it's great to know the videos have helped you out... good luck with the race bike, sounds like fun, but ride safe aye?... all the best, Del
A great tip which I’ll be doing when I service my brakes, I remember years back detecting lateral movement on my front disc and thought something was wrong, all that worry for note, now I know it was all good, cheers Del Boy
Hi again Paul, its a bit odd that they wont move... there is no reason they should not rotate, it could be that they are stuck so much you just need to soak them a bit... have you done the 'Bolt through and turn' trick?.. when you say its stuck, is it moving but just real stiff, or is it totally solid?.....let me know mate.. Del.
@Rasd4Metta Yeah you're right chum, anything you spread oil on will gather grit and dirt faster... its only really going to make them nice and free to move by hand for the first day or two.. then it will calcify and 'putty up' with heat anyway.... cheers bud'...
Hiya Delboy! Traded in my Hyosung gv250 and picked up a nice silver 2003 Bandit 600. Did this job today... Bobbing rusted solid. Sorted now, Cheers mate
Charlie Rutledge Hi Charlie, congratulations on youre new bike buddy....good choice, i reckon 9 out of 10 bikes over ten years old will have jammed bobbins, so its a good fix for better brakes right away... ride safe mate.. all the best.. Del.
Nice one mate, we like to spread the basic knowledge around so that we can all benefit from it ... welcome to the world of biking, take it easy and ride safe, Del
Hi Phil, Thats great news mate, thats the reason we make them and it seems the message is getting out at last... feel free to ask if there is anything you need to know, always happy to help.. good luck buddy, cheers, Del.
You're right, the Ducati system is 'fully floating' as opposed to most bikes which are semi-floating....if you roll the bike backwards you can sometimes get them to judder and rattle....but its all totally standard. (they should "hiss" under load too lol)..
that help is amazing men..thank you i did this today to avoid pulsating brake. I was thinking that i have a blend disk. I Will check my brakes tomorrow.
Have you ever had some brand new rotors with seized bobbins? 2013 fireblade. Fitted some cheap (ngt I think) rotors and now have a vibration through the handlebars when braking (heavily or lightly). Previous discs were warped so had lever push back. Been on rollers since and deffo not warped now.
Great video. As I'm getting a pulsing/intermittent binding on my brakes and the discs are not warped I'm going to give this a go today. Thanks for the tip.
hey, thanks, great vid. I brought a 2001 bandit 3 months ago and the front brake where pulsing, I thought I need new disks and so got the bike cheaper then he was asking for, you sir saved me a lot of money, cleaned and freed off the bobbins and now the disks are as good as new. thanks again, ride safe.
TX I am a numbskull on mechanics. I have just bought a Kawasaki GPZ500s this year. My first bike since 1978. And that also was the last time I rode a MC! I thought the bike was in good nick at first, but realised it had been neglected. Its had work on it but now I am finding the disks are not right and your videos are helping greatly. I appreciate your tutorials and subscribed.
Hi Tony....glad the videos can help you mate, feel free to drop us a line if you get stuck with anything....good luck with the GPZ, and make sure you enjoy it aye... take care...Del.
My disks were pulsing during braking as well. I used to push them from side to side as you did in your video and spray them with a bit of brake cleaner. This worked, but only for one or two rides, probably because I couldn't get to all the gunk. This seems like it might do the trick, gonna try it tomorrow. Good video!
Just taken my front wheel off to fit a new tire & remembered this vid, so gave all the bobbin's a good clean & turn with brake cleaner :) Thank's for the great videos & tips mate!!
Man I swear, hats off to you.. You've got me out of so many jams with your videos. Thank you so much I was about to buy new rotors as well. If you're ever in southern California I owe you a beer or many at that... thank you thank you thank you!!!
Most welcome Brother, im glad the videos have helped you so much.. just sharing the basic knowledge that we should all share to keep the bills down and keep the bikes safe. I hope you are safe and away from the fires we're seeing on the news.. the damage looks heartbreaking.. take care. Del.
great video thanks. I'm getting vibration in the lever under hard braking, I just followed your steps and a few of the bobbins were stuck. Hopefully it will sort the issue out...
+hughiemg2 Hi buddy, yeah should help a lot, and you could maybe clean out the calipers too and make sure the pads are all moving freely, that often leads to one pushing harder than the other, which then means that the pads are trying to 'bend' the disc to one side...and that can make the pulse you feel... Hope that helps... Good luck with it. Del.
Hi Del, the Video is quite an old one but still relevant. Your Videos are all remarkable and those advices along the way as side notes are a real treasure. Have followed both Busa and previous projects. Absolutely marvelous. I was unable to decide where to post this question (Busa Caliper Rebuild or here) as i have something in between. GSXR 1000 K1. Changed the Rotors but not the pads as there was enough meat on them. But now they are moving inside and with rotation at lower speed you can hear that rattling noise. Rotors on the side where this sound is coming from has clean rotatable and free bobbins. On the other side tried a lot of cleaning with brake cleaner but 7 of them are not rotatable by hand. :( Also tried brake grease on the back of pad that did not help either so washed and cleaned it. Pistons are all cleaned up (wd40 lithium sprayed). Moving aahhh... freely (last one comes a bit late but same behavior on both side) Haven't missed any assembly parts as well. Wondering how could this be solved.
Hi mate, any brake or carb cleaner will do the job, even something like Easy Start if you are stuck, you just need a spirit based cleaner and NOT an oil like WD40 or GT85... unless you want to ride in to the back of the car you are following LOL!
That's super helpful! I have a question, just realize that on my motorcycle ( CBR 600 F4 from '99) on my front left disk, only a single bobbin is moving..the disk brakes are the original, never been changed. It is the same situation as presented here or is the time to change them? The bike has 24k miles. Big thanks!
First time I see this, or something similar to this. I will be trying this soon as I can feel some pulsating when braking. Hopefully it's not too late. I'm guessing this is more of a preventative measure than a fix.
Excellent news! This completely eradicated the little bit of "grainy" feel I had on the front brakes on my CBR 600RR. It's so smooth and progressive now. Amazing results and will become a very regular maintenance item. I saw it here 1st, so you deserve all the credit. Thank you again. @Delboy's Garage @Moonfleet41
Amsoil. Great for high rpm bikes like r6 zx6r so on and so on. Wet clutch comparable. As for bandits motorcycle oil or 10w40 or what your manual reccomends will b fine. Great video again man
Alright Im going to check this first thing tomorrow... after work. My rear brake has been pulsating for a while and I couldnt figure out what it was. Thank you for pointing this out!
I imagine it's highly unlikely that it will be frozen brake bobbins because rear brake discs are usually solid, this trick is only for a floating disc, you could check the disc for run out to check if it is warped and worn to excess, the very least you could dry is new pads and clean the caliper, either way, good luck with it my friend.
@@Moonfleet41 Hey thanks for the reply. Thats a tad worrying because the brake bads are new and I've been cleaning the brakes a few times. Maybe some lube or chain cleaner had gotten on the disc. Unfortunately this didnt help. I cant 'see' any warping... I'll check the bobbins (see whats what) and drop by the shop if I cant figure it out. It needs a service soon anyway. Thanks again!
Hi Del. deffo stuck solid mate, tried the bolt trick, when I got the bike the sales guy made a comment on how free the bobbins were, he even turned one between his finger and thumb, I thought while I was doing a spot of maintenance that I would make sure they are moving freely, got a right size bolt and washers, not a sniff of moving, soaked em in brake cleaner and still nowt, i was thinking of removing the calipers and using wd40 as ive got brake cleaner for afterwards but not too sure, cheers.
It is amazing how little known about these are Chris, and when you've done them, it will allow the disc to centre between the pads more quickly and you'll notice your brakes are sharper, many people bleed their brakes over and over trying to make them crisp at the lever, they even go to the expense of buying braided hoses in the quest for sharper brakes with more feel.... when 50% of the problem is the disc being seized up... go to it mate and let us know how you get on!
Ordered bolt (M12), bolt arrived, too wide (literally 1-2 mm off) now to wait for new bolt. my lack of sundries is embarrassing :D May as well use the time to clean the chain, front brakes and replace my horn that sounds like a squirrel farting. Winter ridings a dirty lark.
***** Good work Chris, housekeeping will keep the mechanic away and shame about the M12, little tricks like poking a drill bit through just by hand to check the size first before you order the bolt can save a lot of grief... drill bits are a great tool for measuring holes...! Don't worry about the sundries mate, mine's taken a lifetime to build up and I still don't have everything I need, you never will mate!
M10 Hex Bolt (short) from B&Q... think I have enough to put a bolt in every hole in the bike but win-win. Managed to clean a few that were rock solid; low and behold my brakes don't judder when I have to brake heavily any more. Marvellous Trick, thanks for that!
I use a bit of wood on the jack. Gives it a better seat for the bike but won't mark the frome. Also lets the bike go higher easier. Did that for my dad's R6 while switching engines and with my mums bandit 600. The bandit is bloody heavy! If you have a centre stand , use that and get a heavy person to sit on the pillion seat lol
Hi Ted, he is just one that i chose to leave up for folks to enjoy, mostly i delete them as the fallout just hyjacks the subject matter and ruines the comments section, i get one a week mate, they are just water off a ducks back, You are right, the anonymity of the net allows them to indulge thier perverted trolling habit, what you didn't read, was the personal message i sent him with a little personal information about his address,funny, he's gone all quiet now! cheers for watching mate.. Del.
Hi mate, cheers for the reply. Theres no rusty crap that comes out when flooding them with the brake cleaner which i was supprised about and when the bolt is out they dont move by hand even with the added grip of latex gloves :s
Thanks mate, im glad you found it useful.. so often i hear this, nobody tells you these things, and its common maintenance issue... glad you are learning and teaching yourself, its the only way buddy, and make sure you pass on the things you know, its how knowledge spreads, and could save another rider a few quid too... cheers mate, good luck with the Tizzer.... Del.
Ha ha Jim, you are too kind... bikers are a family brother, pass on the things we learn and we become stronger as a collective.. ride safe buddy... Del;.
First off I know this is a old vid but I want to say thank you for your videos. I never knew about bobbins you just taught me something new definitely something I need to check on my hayabusa. Thanks from across the old pond cheers
Crackin vid that mate, I've just picked up an RSV Mille today, lovely bike....but...... brake judder slightly but only from high speed not when slow, so this is on the job list tomorrow straight away, smashin!
Side to side movement is not for heat expansion, it is for alignment with the fixed caliper, it makes the brakes more responsive... rotational movement is always a side effect of this, just hold your bike's brakes on and rock the bike back and forth whilst you watch the disc, you will see the movement...
Great Video, Popped out to the garage to check my bobbins Mk1 B6, they are stuck solid. Followed your video used pretty much 2 cans of brake cleaner on them to free them up with no joy, there still stuck solid, they will rotate when the bolt is in there.. just, and i get no "floating" of the disc... any further advice you have for freeing these up before i have to resort to buying new discs??
shot down to B&Q bought the right bolts etc. Just finished and went for a quick ride, seems to have sorted it out although the tech at the Triumph dealership where I bought my KTM did a similar thing (don't think he did them individually or with a bolt) and it came back after two days. Hopefully this time it's sorted.
@furious607 COMMENT OF THE MONTH..Matt, you are very welcome mate, this is the exact and precise reason i post my shit on youtube..it is to spread knowlegde and help my fellow bikers save money. It takes ten times the effort to film, comentate, and explain, then the hours spent editing and loading a video, than it does to just go in the garage and fix my bike myself..and its when i get a comment like yours, that it makes it all worth while.... well done for gettting stuck in Matt, and ride safe.
excellent tip this.... just checked mine and out fo the 18 bobbins 14 were solid.... took about an hour to do the lot and they are spot on now... cheers mate :)
This is a fantastic tip, thank you so much for making this video, I hope you dont stop uploading your tips because for newer riders into self maintained, these are pure gold.
What kind of lubricant do you spray? is Wd40 good? I mean, is it not dangerous to spray something on the disk where the pads tighten? Thanks for the video!
Thanks mate....and you clearly dont get the Rat N Survival thing....!...I see shiney bikes around that blokes obviously spend days on end polishing, but neglect things like this, hell, ive even seen them with chains hanging out ready to snap, but all lovely and clean...Priorities mate, i clean what needs cleaning... thanks for watching. Del.
My breaks keep seizing. I think it may be due to this? The breaks warping then knocking everything else off. I shall try this now. Hopefully it'll prevent me having to shell out on them caliper being stripped again. Cost me like £120 front and back with new pads :(
@travellar Your welcome matey, its a commonly overlooked little maintainance task, the dealers often dont bother unless its a major overhaul... hope the Rex is going well buddy, keep the rubber in the pavement aye...Cheers. Del.
Great video, never knew this and I’ve been biking for years. 👍 When discs are mounted Left on Left - Right on Right correct direction. How about alignment of disc to disc? Eg on wavy discs the wave should not be aligned but offset. Is this the same for standard Suzuki discs eg. Have the bobbins offset or aligned? Thanks Again
Thanks for this Del. I've freed my bobbins, but some won't turn as freely with my hand but they do with a spanner. Should I keep cleaning until I can turn them with my hand? I mean how freely should they turn?
Sometimes the corrosion gets ingrained in the joint, if the brake cleaner won't wash it out, then try (with the offending bobbin at the bottom of the disc), a little squirt of WD40 in behind the bobbin and keep turning it till it frees right off... then immediately wash out the WD40 with lots of brake cleaner and make sure it's all gone, a great way to do it... but don't over think it buddy, as long as they move, then your brakes will operate better than if they don't !
Hi mate.. thanks for your kind comments... go through the back library mate, there are loads of videos on Project Damage... you'll probably love the back end frame rebuild series... thanks for watching.. Del.
Well had a look and one side was free and fine but the other side was loose so I'm gessing the disks need renewed! Altho I did do the same trick on my mates 98 R1 and they have freed up after he thought he had to buy new discs so thanks very much del u have saved him £££
Lubing them sparingly is ok if they live in a dust free environment...which they dont....the dust sticks to the wet lube and makes a thick paste that will gum them back up.....better just to keep them clean and dry...after all the huge centrifugal force will just send the lube into your pads...maybe not much, but over time you weill just lose braking efficiency.
Del, is there a video on the cards of you cleaning your brake callipers? It's a part of bike cleaning which I know nothing about and which allot of videos don't show well?
Hi delboy will this act like a grab if I have one or to of the bobbins locked up I get a nice brake then a real quick grab,the disc it self is very clean all round with no rust anywhere Dek121
+Dek Till Hi buddy, if the grab you describe is equal and rhythmic, then one point of the disc is gripping more than the rest, so by all means check that each one is moving then at least you've eliminated that - hope that helps!
I do most service/repairs on my bike .wouldnt trust no dealers.do it yourself.the only person to care about your bike is yourself.cheers for your videos.ive learnt some bits I never knew.good man👍
Me too
8 1/2 years later, here I am finding your disc brake bobbin video helpful on my Dyna. Thanks so much for all the knowledge you've shared over the years!
Me too! Thanks mate!
Well done to you, Sir, it's excellent to hear that you've sorted it out. So many riders write to us explaining they have air in the brake hose and cannot bleed properly for trying when all it is is the rotors are flexing due to being jammed up, as you have found! It's not complex but it does take a little understanding of each part of the braking system to be able to maintain it properly so it operates perfectly... well done again and ride safe, Del
Hi James...there is nothing you can put on the disc to prevent rust, obviously....but riding it regularly will rub off any rust and wont hurt at all...if its building up too much then the cover is obviously keeping the bike damp underneath, then leaving the cover off as an experiment and see if they still rust...ill bet they dont do so bad...which proves my theory that covers do as much harm as good..!!!
Hi mate, you need to get the crud out from between the bobbin and its mount. Were you getting lots of rusty crap run out when you rinsed them?...and can they move with your fingers once you taker the bolt out?...
Hi Ian,yeah there are a couple of bikes with solid bobbins,the single only way to do them is by hand using a g-clamp & a postage stamp sized square of inner tube rubber to protect them & then spray away & wiggle! It's more long winded,but gets the job done......I wouldn't sweat it too much, mate, as a bike like that I'm sure, isn't gonna ride in the filthy weather every day, so your discs shouldn't get too cacked up! Hope that helps you, mate, Cheers, Del
Hi Tubbs, there are ways and means, but I thought most bobbins had holes in, never seen them without... what bike have you got - let me know and I'll look them up and see what I can suggest....Del
Hi mate,thanks for your question,first check that you are using the right pads for general road use & not race pads & learn to lay off the brakes a bit,unless they are cheap Chinese discs of rubbish quality,then the only way you're warping them is through too much heat,heat that is kept on them for too long,you could be braking too late & too hard or braking light for too long causing a slow heat build up,provided they are fitted correctly only mis-use will warp them..what bike is it? Del
Hi Del.I was having trouble with brake noise and was thinking the worst seized pistons in the callipers etc, fitted new pads cleaned callipers and pistons still getting brake noise.Then tried the rotor bobbins, seized tight on one side of the whee,l did what you said in the video NO noise now. Fantastic thanks for your help probably saved me a few quid not having to take the bike to the garage.Keep the videos coming.
Hi mate...we never stop learning buddy, i learn something every day, and usually its from the least likely person .
Really appreciate you taking the time to do these videos Del. Certainly learned my lesson back in January, but now I've got some dough I can start fixing the bike and do all the maintenance work that was waaaay overdue.
Cheers, Jon
Too right Ade, half of these garages just want the money for the big job and think you will trust them and the others dont have a clue how to clue... give it a good cleaning like this and it should get a lot better... mine start to oscilate about mid winter and a good cleaning get them back to normal...warping a disc is very rare unless you are braking really really hard a lot of the time and have a high performace bike.... its much more likely they are gummed up.. good luck and well done.. Del.
Hi Terry... had a look at some, and indeed they do appear to be solid...i guess the only thing you can do is use an old tooth brush and scrub all round them while jetting the brake cleaner in the gap...as long as the worst is off then they will still work ok.... hope that helps you out...i didnt think any bobbins would be solid, seems a bit daft, but who are we to question the mighty factories aye..lol... take care, Del..
Hey Del, avid fan!
I feel it ought to be mentioned (If it hasn't already) that this isn't possible on all brake rotors.
EBC's SD bobbins are not round. Hence the name SD (Square Drive). Trying to spin the bobbins could cause expensive problems!
So yeah, check your discs people before you give this a try!
Still a top trick to know about for regular discs though!
I'm not convinced that disc bobbins are supposed to spin as freely as this video suggests. I've spoken to technicians (people who used to be called mechanics) at my local Triumph dealer. None of them thought of this as a regular maintenance job, other than to clean with brake cleaner (especially if you allow your bike to get as filthy as this one!).In fact one said 'leave them alone'. EBC now produce discs with flat-sided bobbins. They can't rotate.
brilliant advice been having this problem with my brakes and couldn't work out what it was and almost ordered a new pair of disc's at a cost of near on £400 but this tip of yours del boy has saved me a lot of hassle and unwanted expense thanks and keep up the good work.
Hi Stuart, without a front paddock stand, easiest way is to jack against the side stand...simply put it on the side stand, place a trolley jack under the right hand side of the bike & with a folded rag to protect against damage, jack carefully up under the collector box on the exhaust and it will roll left and the front wheel will come up ...and be careful! Cheers, Del
40 years of riding and I'm still learning....your the best Del. Thank you
Cheers buddy... i learn a new thing every week from YT, great platform aye...
Hi mate,it sounds a little odd as they are supposed to turn,there should be nothing holding them other than dirt or rust,how much force did you put behind it? Perhaps they are just so bad they are locked?? Make sure you're not bolting up too tight as you could be pinching them against the disc on the back,they only need to be a little more than finger tight, other than that, I've no idea, mate, mine have never not moved! Let us know how you get on, Del
Thanks for this great tip. I cleaned mine yesterday with a tooth brush and brake cleaner. I realise now i only did half a job at the very best! Off to the garage now to do it properly! Cheers.
Hi mate, yes, its a greatly missed little bit of maintenance, but once you've done it, you'll be surprised at the improvement it makes in lever feel and braking response, plus it will prevent you warping a disc in the summer as once they are seized up they cant move about so flex instead... cheers mate, Del.
Awesome tip thanks a lot. Many mechanics I have come across over the years have felt that brake lever moving in and out and insisted the discs need changing without any other investigation. Happened to me many times. Will try this on my latest wobble!!!
Best to have a 6 pack of beer to go along with this job.
Only 6? That's most jobs dude. I have a six on standby just for cleaning. :)
@boredofitall The money it saves you Sal is when the bobbins jam up solid and refuse to let the rotor move and expand freely under natural heating and cooling of use.....so they warp.. and a new disc (or pair, as you cant replace just one) costs more then a years wear and tear all on one hit.....
Man, you rock! The squealing is gone, and so is the shuddering. The brake lever "takes" higher up and is a lot stiffer than before, my steel-braided brake hoses are finally working properly.
I've reason to believe that since the rotors were stuck before, my braking was mostly about warping the rotors in their holders as they were stuck.
Problem is now fixed and I have a new motorcycle it feels like!
Hi Dean.... no, you're fine as long as they spin with the bolt in...if the bike is quite new and the brakes in fresh condition then the bobbins will still be snug and tight from new...its when the dirt stops them doing their job that your braking efficiency is effected....so just make sure they spin round with the bolt in and thats fine... thanks for your kind support... take care, Del.
If the bike is quite new, remember, these are only semi floating discs, not fully floating as on Ducatis where they literally rattle, so they should be firm, but moveable and on a newer bike there is no wear so perhaps they are just still a bit snug, as long as the brakes work ok and all the bobbins are mobile with the bolt in, then that's ok, don't try to over think it, mate, the general rule is that if it rides ok then it usually is ok .. take care Del
Wow thanks a ton man, this fixed my pulsating brake problem, I was worried my brakes were bad, but after watching this I checked them and every single one was seized up, after getting them cleaned and moving again... No more pulsating as I come to a stop. Thank you.
That's great news buddy, we love to hear that a video has been of use to a fellow rider... good luck and thanks for watching.. Del.
90% chance it will be mate, the bobbins have to be free to move otherwise the rotors will freeze up slightly off centre and there's your pulse..get them spun up and you'll see how much better the brakes are... good luck with it mate.. Del.
Thanks Delboy. Yours is a go to channel for me.
I’ve always done the basics on mine and my wife’s bikes (fluids, filters etc) but keen to learn more. Very good explanations.
I’ve also bought a Daytona about a month ago which is going to be a track bike. Been using you videos to get it set up right. At 200kph it needs to be right.
Winter is also the better riding weather in Australia. Not as hot. Not as wet and of course no salt. Let me know if you are ever in Brisbane and we’ll go for a fang.
Hi Andrew, thanks mate, that's really kind of you, and it's great to know the videos have helped you out... good luck with the race bike, sounds like fun, but ride safe aye?... all the best, Del
A great tip which I’ll be doing when I service my brakes, I remember years back detecting lateral movement on my front disc and thought something was wrong, all that worry for note, now I know it was all good, cheers Del Boy
Hi again Paul, its a bit odd that they wont move... there is no reason they should not rotate, it could be that they are stuck so much you just need to soak them a bit... have you done the 'Bolt through and turn' trick?.. when you say its stuck, is it moving but just real stiff, or is it totally solid?.....let me know mate.. Del.
@Rasd4Metta Yeah you're right chum, anything you spread oil on will gather grit and dirt faster... its only really going to make them nice and free to move by hand for the first day or two.. then it will calcify and 'putty up' with heat anyway.... cheers bud'...
hi scraps... what bike is it on, and are they semi bloating discs in the first place... could just be corroded up solid...
great tip bro!i have been a bike mechanic for 12 years now and i cant believe i didnt know this trick!thanks,GOD bless!
Wow just got a 02 GSXR 600 with similar problems when braking, I pray this works for me 🤞🏾🤞🏾🤞🏾. Thank you for the information .
Good luck, i hope it sorts it out mate.
Hiya Delboy! Traded in my Hyosung gv250 and picked up a nice silver 2003 Bandit 600. Did this job today... Bobbing rusted solid. Sorted now, Cheers mate
Charlie Rutledge Hi Charlie, congratulations on youre new bike buddy....good choice, i reckon 9 out of 10 bikes over ten years old will have jammed bobbins, so its a good fix for better brakes right away... ride safe mate.. all the best.. Del.
Nice one mate, we like to spread the basic knowledge around so that we can all benefit from it ... welcome to the world of biking, take it easy and ride safe, Del
Hi Phil, Thats great news mate, thats the reason we make them and it seems the message is getting out at last... feel free to ask if there is anything you need to know, always happy to help.. good luck buddy, cheers, Del.
You're right, the Ducati system is 'fully floating' as opposed to most bikes which are semi-floating....if you roll the bike backwards you can sometimes get them to judder and rattle....but its all totally standard. (they should "hiss" under load too lol)..
that help is amazing men..thank you
i did this today to avoid pulsating brake. I was thinking that i have a blend disk. I Will check my brakes tomorrow.
Thanks Rezzi, glad you like it mate and happy to be of help.. ride safe chap.. Del.
Have you ever had some brand new rotors with seized bobbins? 2013 fireblade. Fitted some cheap (ngt I think) rotors and now have a vibration through the handlebars when braking (heavily or lightly). Previous discs were warped so had lever push back. Been on rollers since and deffo not warped now.
Great video. As I'm getting a pulsing/intermittent binding on my brakes and the discs are not warped I'm going to give this a go today. Thanks for the tip.
Good call mate, hope you can sort it out.. let us know how you get on..
I hope I just have to clean the bobbins, a new disc + brake pads is pretty expensive. Thanks for the tip
Good luck with it mate, it will make a big difference.
hey, thanks, great vid. I brought a 2001 bandit 3 months ago and the front brake where pulsing, I thought I need new disks and so got the bike cheaper then he was asking for, you sir saved me a lot of money, cleaned and freed off the bobbins and now the disks are as good as new. thanks again, ride safe.
TX I am a numbskull on mechanics. I have just bought a Kawasaki GPZ500s this year. My first bike since 1978. And that also was the last time I rode a MC! I thought the bike was in good nick at first, but realised it had been neglected. Its had work on it but now I am finding the disks are not right and your videos are helping greatly. I appreciate your tutorials and subscribed.
Hi Tony....glad the videos can help you mate, feel free to drop us a line if you get stuck with anything....good luck with the GPZ, and make sure you enjoy it aye... take care...Del.
My disks were pulsing during braking as well. I used to push them from side to side as you did in your video and spray them with a bit of brake cleaner. This worked, but only for one or two rides, probably because I couldn't get to all the gunk. This seems like it might do the trick, gonna try it tomorrow. Good video!
Just taken my front wheel off to fit a new tire & remembered this vid, so gave all the bobbin's a good clean & turn with brake cleaner :) Thank's for the great videos & tips mate!!
Cheers Mike, you are most welcome mate...thanks for watching.. Del.
What size bolt and carriage washer did you use? M10 or different? Thanks for tips. You are the most helpful source around.
Yes Neil, a short M10 bolt did the job in this case..!
@@Moonfleet41 Perfect. Going home now to try it out. Thanks again!
Man I swear, hats off to you.. You've got me out of so many jams with your videos. Thank you so much I was about to buy new rotors as well. If you're ever in southern California I owe you a beer or many at that... thank you thank you thank you!!!
Most welcome Brother, im glad the videos have helped you so much.. just sharing the basic knowledge that we should all share to keep the bills down and keep the bikes safe. I hope you are safe and away from the fires we're seeing on the news.. the damage looks heartbreaking.. take care. Del.
great video thanks. I'm getting vibration in the lever under hard braking, I just followed your steps and a few of the bobbins were stuck. Hopefully it will sort the issue out...
+hughiemg2 Hi buddy, yeah should help a lot, and you could maybe clean out the calipers too and make sure the pads are all moving freely, that often leads to one pushing harder than the other, which then means that the pads are trying to 'bend' the disc to one side...and that can make the pulse you feel... Hope that helps... Good luck with it. Del.
Hi Del, the Video is quite an old one but still relevant. Your Videos are all remarkable and those advices along the way as side notes are a real treasure. Have followed both Busa and previous projects. Absolutely marvelous.
I was unable to decide where to post this question (Busa Caliper Rebuild or here) as i have something in between.
GSXR 1000 K1. Changed the Rotors but not the pads as there was enough meat on them. But now they are moving inside and with rotation at lower speed you can hear that rattling noise.
Rotors on the side where this sound is coming from has clean rotatable and free bobbins. On the other side tried a lot of cleaning with brake cleaner but 7 of them are not rotatable by hand. :(
Also tried brake grease on the back of pad that did not help either so washed and cleaned it.
Pistons are all cleaned up (wd40 lithium sprayed). Moving aahhh... freely (last one comes a bit late but same behavior on both side)
Haven't missed any assembly parts as well.
Wondering how could this be solved.
Hi mate, any brake or carb cleaner will do the job, even something like Easy Start if you are stuck, you just need a spirit based cleaner and NOT an oil like WD40 or GT85... unless you want to ride in to the back of the car you are following LOL!
as a new biker I didn't have a clue about floating dismcs! Now I do and how to keep them working by cleaning them! Cheers
That's super helpful! I have a question, just realize that on my motorcycle ( CBR 600 F4 from '99) on my front left disk, only a single bobbin is moving..the disk brakes are the original, never been changed. It is the same situation as presented here or is the time to change them? The bike has 24k miles. Big thanks!
First time I see this, or something similar to this. I will be trying this soon as I can feel some pulsating when braking. Hopefully it's not too late. I'm guessing this is more of a preventative measure than a fix.
Excellent news!
This completely eradicated the little bit of "grainy" feel I had on the front brakes on my CBR 600RR. It's so smooth and progressive now. Amazing results and will become a very regular maintenance item.
I saw it here 1st, so you deserve all the credit.
Thank you again.
@Delboy's Garage
@Moonfleet41
Thanks I'd never thought about these things. I was ready to buy everything brand new. This weekends project
Nice job buddy! I agree with you with not lubricating the brake parts, sure it lets its move freely, but it collects so much dirt and shit!
Amsoil. Great for high rpm bikes like r6 zx6r so on and so on. Wet clutch comparable. As for bandits motorcycle oil or 10w40 or what your manual reccomends will b fine. Great video again man
Alright Im going to check this first thing tomorrow... after work.
My rear brake has been pulsating for a while and I couldnt figure out what it was.
Thank you for pointing this out!
I imagine it's highly unlikely that it will be frozen brake bobbins because rear brake discs are usually solid, this trick is only for a floating disc, you could check the disc for run out to check if it is warped and worn to excess, the very least you could dry is new pads and clean the caliper, either way, good luck with it my friend.
@@Moonfleet41 Hey thanks for the reply. Thats a tad worrying because the brake bads are new and I've been cleaning the brakes a few times. Maybe some lube or chain cleaner had gotten on the disc. Unfortunately this didnt help.
I cant 'see' any warping... I'll check the bobbins (see whats what) and drop by the shop if I cant figure it out. It needs a service soon anyway.
Thanks again!
Hi Del. deffo stuck solid mate, tried the bolt trick, when I got the bike the sales guy made a comment on how free the bobbins were, he even turned one between his finger and thumb, I thought while I was doing a spot of maintenance that I would make sure they are moving freely, got a right size bolt and washers, not a sniff of moving, soaked em in brake cleaner and still nowt, i was thinking of removing the calipers and using wd40 as ive got brake cleaner for afterwards but not too sure, cheers.
Didnt realise these things existed till I came here and lucky me they're all seized; Thanks for the useful trick 3 down, lots to go
It is amazing how little known about these are Chris, and when you've done them, it will allow the disc to centre between the pads more quickly and you'll notice your brakes are sharper, many people bleed their brakes over and over trying to make them crisp at the lever, they even go to the expense of buying braided hoses in the quest for sharper brakes with more feel.... when 50% of the problem is the disc being seized up... go to it mate and let us know how you get on!
Ordered bolt (M12), bolt arrived, too wide (literally 1-2 mm off) now to wait for new bolt. my lack of sundries is embarrassing :D
May as well use the time to clean the chain, front brakes and replace my horn that sounds like a squirrel farting. Winter ridings a dirty lark.
***** Good work Chris, housekeeping will keep the mechanic away and shame about the M12, little tricks like poking a drill bit through just by hand to check the size first before you order the bolt can save a lot of grief... drill bits are a great tool for measuring holes...! Don't worry about the sundries mate, mine's taken a lifetime to build up and I still don't have everything I need, you never will mate!
M10 Hex Bolt (short) from B&Q... think I have enough to put a bolt in every hole in the bike but win-win. Managed to clean a few that were rock solid; low and behold my brakes don't judder when I have to brake heavily any more.
Marvellous Trick, thanks for that!
Great delivery, Delboy. I enjoyed this and the caliper one.
Glad you liked it Jamie, appreciate you watching... all the best.. Del.
I use a bit of wood on the jack. Gives it a better seat for the bike but won't mark the frome. Also lets the bike go higher easier. Did that for my dad's R6 while switching engines and with my mums bandit 600. The bandit is bloody heavy! If you have a centre stand , use that and get a heavy person to sit on the pillion seat lol
Nice, i guessed freeing them off might take that sort of attention, but it is nice to see that what I thought i might need to do is how it is done.
Hi Ted, he is just one that i chose to leave up for folks to enjoy, mostly i delete them as the fallout just hyjacks the subject matter and ruines the comments section, i get one a week mate, they are just water off a ducks back, You are right, the anonymity of the net allows them to indulge thier perverted trolling habit, what you didn't read, was the personal message i sent him with a little personal information about his address,funny, he's gone all quiet now! cheers for watching mate.. Del.
What bike is it matey..?
Fantastic. Buttons binding can happen to any bike, not just ones that are ridden a lot or ones that are dirty.
Hi mate, cheers for the reply. Theres no rusty crap that comes out when flooding them with the brake cleaner which i was supprised about and when the bolt is out they dont move by hand even with the added grip of latex gloves :s
Thanks mate, im glad you found it useful.. so often i hear this, nobody tells you these things, and its common maintenance issue... glad you are learning and teaching yourself, its the only way buddy, and make sure you pass on the things you know, its how knowledge spreads, and could save another rider a few quid too... cheers mate, good luck with the Tizzer.... Del.
Ha ha Jim, you are too kind... bikers are a family brother, pass on the things we learn and we become stronger as a collective.. ride safe buddy... Del;.
First off I know this is a old vid but I want to say thank you for your videos. I never knew about bobbins you just taught me something new definitely something I need to check on my hayabusa.
Thanks from across the old pond cheers
Hi Jerry, not all bikes have movable bobbins, but if you do, and they're jammed up, then it'll help to clean them out. Good luck with it.. Del.
@@Moonfleet41 thank you
Crackin vid that mate, I've just picked up an RSV Mille today, lovely bike....but...... brake judder slightly but only from high speed not when slow, so this is on the job list tomorrow straight away, smashin!
I understand a floating rotor should have side to side movement to allow heat expansion, but what about directional movement? Great videos by the way!
Side to side movement is not for heat expansion, it is for alignment with the fixed caliper, it makes the brakes more responsive... rotational movement is always a side effect of this, just hold your bike's brakes on and rock the bike back and forth whilst you watch the disc, you will see the movement...
Great Video, Popped out to the garage to check my bobbins Mk1 B6, they are stuck solid. Followed your video used pretty much 2 cans of brake cleaner on them to free them up with no joy, there still stuck solid, they will rotate when the bolt is in there.. just, and i get no "floating" of the disc... any further advice you have for freeing these up before i have to resort to buying new discs??
shot down to B&Q bought the right bolts etc. Just finished and went for a quick ride, seems to have sorted it out although the tech at the Triumph dealership where I bought my KTM did a similar thing (don't think he did them individually or with a bolt) and it came back after two days. Hopefully this time it's sorted.
glad you sorted it mate..
@furious607 COMMENT OF THE MONTH..Matt, you are very welcome mate, this is the exact and precise reason i post my shit on youtube..it is to spread knowlegde and help my fellow bikers save money. It takes ten times the effort to film, comentate, and explain, then the hours spent editing and loading a video, than it does to just go in the garage and fix my bike myself..and its when i get a comment like yours, that it makes it all worth while.... well done for gettting stuck in Matt, and ride safe.
Thanks! Will try this on my VFR. Have just the problems you describe, with squeling and shuddering brakes, and rotors sorta' stuck on the holders.
Wow what reaction LOL! You should find that those bobbins, once freed up, will make your brakes feel crisper and more responsive ... good luck Del
excellent tip this.... just checked mine and out fo the 18 bobbins 14 were solid.... took about an hour to do the lot and they are spot on now... cheers mate :)
Yet another great video helping us noob riders get familiar with their bikes. I didnt even know bobbins existed!! Thanks again and keep them coming!
This is a fantastic tip, thank you so much for making this video, I hope you dont stop uploading your tips because for newer riders into self maintained, these are pure gold.
What kind of lubricant do you spray? is Wd40 good? I mean, is it not dangerous to spray something on the disk where the pads tighten? Thanks for the video!
NO.. Never use a lubricant.. use brake cleaner spray only.. that will dry away and not effect your brakes.
Geez and I was about to buy new brake discs at 15k miles. Thanks for this!
Thanks mate....and you clearly dont get the Rat N Survival thing....!...I see shiney bikes around that blokes obviously spend days on end polishing, but neglect things like this, hell, ive even seen them with chains hanging out ready to snap, but all lovely and clean...Priorities mate, i clean what needs cleaning... thanks for watching. Del.
My breaks keep seizing. I think it may be due to this? The breaks warping then knocking everything else off. I shall try this now. Hopefully it'll prevent me having to shell out on them caliper being stripped again. Cost me like £120 front and back with new pads :(
@travellar Your welcome matey, its a commonly overlooked little maintainance task, the dealers often dont bother unless its a major overhaul... hope the Rex is going well buddy, keep the rubber in the pavement aye...Cheers. Del.
Great video, never knew this and I’ve been biking for years. 👍 When discs are mounted Left on Left - Right on Right correct direction. How about alignment of disc to disc? Eg on wavy discs the wave should not be aligned but offset. Is this the same for standard Suzuki discs eg. Have the bobbins offset or aligned?
Thanks Again
Thanks for this Del. I've freed my bobbins, but some won't turn as freely with my hand but they do with a spanner. Should I keep cleaning until I can turn them with my hand? I mean how freely should they turn?
Sometimes the corrosion gets ingrained in the joint, if the brake cleaner won't wash it out, then try (with the offending bobbin at the bottom of the disc), a little squirt of WD40 in behind the bobbin and keep turning it till it frees right off... then immediately wash out the WD40 with lots of brake cleaner and make sure it's all gone, a great way to do it... but don't over think it buddy, as long as they move, then your brakes will operate better than if they don't !
Chees Delboy! - very helpful indeed. I'll give it a go.
pretty brilliant. I'm enjoying these videos... would love to see more of this mad max bike
Hi mate.. thanks for your kind comments... go through the back library mate, there are loads of videos on Project Damage... you'll probably love the back end frame rebuild series... thanks for watching.. Del.
Well done Mark, glad you sussed it out, and yeah, that would have been at least an hours labour...good going fellah.. cheers, Del.
Very good tip, nice to know it's meant to move and the science behind the braking system! Will incorporate this on my weekly Checks!
Thanks for another great video and tip.
As a newby I really appreciate your videos.
I had no idea what a bobbin was or indeed did. Thumbs up as usual.
Well had a look and one side was free and fine but the other side was loose so I'm gessing the disks need renewed! Altho I did do the same trick on my mates 98 R1 and they have freed up after he thought he had to buy new discs so thanks very much del u have saved him £££
Cheers for putting the video up
I had some that were free and some seized all sorted
Thanks delboy👍👍👍
Lubing them sparingly is ok if they live in a dust free environment...which they dont....the dust sticks to the wet lube and makes a thick paste that will gum them back up.....better just to keep them clean and dry...after all the huge centrifugal force will just send the lube into your pads...maybe not much, but over time you weill just lose braking efficiency.
Del, is there a video on the cards of you cleaning your brake callipers? It's a part of bike cleaning which I know nothing about and which allot of videos don't show well?
Hi delboy will this act like a grab if I have one or to of the bobbins locked up
I get a nice brake then a real quick grab,the disc it self is very clean all round with no rust anywhere
Dek121
+Dek Till Hi buddy, if the grab you describe is equal and rhythmic, then one point of the disc is gripping more than the rest, so by all means check that each one is moving then at least you've eliminated that - hope that helps!