Could it not be that the lockup solenoid is causing the stalling and the TC is good? Just think how lucky you guys are in the states, the subi HT cvt fluid is $800 AUD ($600US) for a 20 ltr can, (cant buy it any other way) Have you not still got the old valve body off the other car you replaced? Are all the solenoids the same? maybe swapsy?
@@nuttietrendchannel4265 The goal of the dealer is to hand over an estimate so high that you will decide the car is not economically fixable, giving them another customer for one of their new (or newer) ones.
2016 Legacy 2.5i, this beauty is currently just over 196k and we are barely dealing with these issues. Glad to see other subi’s owners have also put in those miles or more & I most definitely will b getting another! Ty for some great insight !!
- Took me a while to finally get around to watching this. This car hit 200,000. That's really good, especially considering your brother doesn't keep up with maint. Most I've seen with this problem were nearing 60k and they were all Outbacks. Great vid 👍🏾TY for sharing
If you get 200k miles out of a car with just routine maintenance you got a great car. Anybody watching this channel is a mechanic of sorts, so these 200k mile cars with no problems got good routine maintenance, minor stuff fixed when it broke. The best thing about subies is they are not complex cars, in their design. They also in my opinion have excellent factory repair manuals.
I do like my 2013 Subuaru Legacy H6. I have now 130,000 on it. Lost the master brake cylinder at 115,000. Lost the rear wheel bearing at 120,000. Lost the front control arms at 125,000 as well as a rubber seal went on the rear differential (rubber parts fail on all my cars at around this point and start leaking oil). Now at 130,000 and have another oil leak - I think it is on the rubber seal for the valve covers on both sides. Everything else has been maintenance (oil changes, batteries, tires, etc.). Still a good car considering the price for what you get.
Not even relevant to this video, but just wanted to say that I am super glad you put out this info and all other vids of info relevant to Subbies! THANK YOU!!! Havent even checked if you have recent vids up, cause my feed only shows your content from 3 and 4 years ago. I know its a lot of work to put this stuff out there. I look forward to viewing more of your content!🙂
June 29th just got my 2014 outback out of local trans shop ,,,had the po700 and the p2764 pulled by my brother in-laws shop,he wouldn't let me buy him lunch , and he called down the road for trans guys that Know their Tran,s and YES it was Spot ON!!! So it Cost me 1300 out the door,I will be looking under car this morning for leaks , but it drives Great I've drove this car. 90k with No problems , just a re-call for airbag,s I do all other things myself So I really follow the Smarter that guide me to success,,,Thank you for your expertise and idiosyncrasies.peace.
Welp, just brought my 2011 OB in for service because of these exact CVT issues (today!)... When I got home, found this video and everything is now so clear! TY 1387. It appears that this situation comes down to only one real option: Negotiating with SOA in hopes of finding an affordable solution. A 2011 OB with 128.5K miles is worth only $4.5Kish according to Kelly Blue Book. How can one justify spending more then that to fix their tranny??? Don't get me wrong, this ride has been outstanding and amazingly reliable! (drove it down to the Mexico, Yucatan Peninsula for 7 months {10K+ miles trip} and no hablo español. Thank GOD my ride was flawless!!! BTW, very few Subaru dealers down there). I Love this ride and it will break my heart if I have to give her up... There's gotta be an affordable solution???
Same thing just happened to me today. Exact same images. 2012 had towed to my guy and he called me with the same conclusion you said. 1K to fix it and all the fluids.
I saw ‘cvt trouble’ in the title and thought to myself ‘damn… that’s not good’… then I saw the odo at 199k miles and then I’m like ‘oh okay… whew’ hahah
@@Hallowsaw Issue is at least in the US Subaru has the fluid for the CVT as 'lifetime', so most people just reading their manual are thinking they never need to replace it.
I have an aquaintence that dabbles in a Subaru CVT business that has supplied me with CVTs for my shop after going through valve body solenoids and torque converts. He insists the cause is overheating and thinks the radiator cooling system is not adequate and has installed aftermarket tranny coolers in front of the a/c condenser with good results. So far I have replaced three of his with good results with the extra cooling.
I have 160k on my 2011 OB Premium and the torque convertor has been going bad for the last 15k or so - doesn't stall each time or very often but is just an occasional issue. I've also replaced that passenger side rear wheel bearing (went bad at 147k, the dealer charged me $700 to replace). I'm rolling the dice on that torque convertor as the dealer wants $1400 to replace it and that dollar amount is a large percentage of what the car is worth.
I have a 2010 Outback 2.5i, and the valve body failed at 139k miles. Subaru replaced it under the extended warranty. Prior to the valve body failure, I was getting some stalls from the TC, but they couldn’t repeat it at the dealer, so they wouldn’t replace it. Once I got to 150k, the TC issue became more noticeable, and they were able to repeat it at the dealer. Unfortunately, I was beyond the extended warranty at that point, but I got Subaru to pay for half of a new TC. I’m now at 164k miles, and I hope to get another 100k miles like some others here. I put 300k miles on my ‘95 Legacy wagon with no major repairs. Despite these CVT issues, I still think Subaru makes great, reliable cars.
How did you get Subaru to cover half of the cost. My 18 Outback is at 107k miles, just over the warranty period. Wondering if they'll do the same for me.
I have a 2011 Subaru outback, first code was transmission module control, next was o2 sensor, now it's the p2763 torque converter solenoid. 145000 miles. I wont buy another one that I cant work on. I loved my 06 outback. Next vehicle will be back to my chevys. My truck has 216000+ on it no problems. I can work on it.
I had a 11 Outback and the only thing that was weird for me was the hesitancy from a standing stop (there was a delay of 1 to 2 seconds from hitting the accelerator to actually moving forward) that Outback was replaced due to a bad accident (rear ended, totaling it out). I have a 14 Outback (after my 2011 Outback was wrecked) that currently has 110K miles. I have done all the basics (Coolant, front/rear differential, plugs, front/rear brakes) I also replace the oil with Idemistu oil every 5K miles (I could probably go longer, but I never heard of any bad things happening when oil is changed before it needs to be changed) I will be checking the fluid in the CVT within the next 5-10K miles. But the Outback runs great and has not given me a reason to consider replacing it (but that new Turbo is awfully enticing). I understand that in 2013, Subaru upgraded the CVT. Is there anything I should be aware of or do to ensure it has a long trouble-free life?
Routine maintenance with my 2011 Legacy. I had to replace the engine, so I had a rebuilt one from a company online (ENGINESUS). Had someone replace the old to rebuilt. At least 4 times now that I've had to deal with these lights issue. First, the guy told me it was the throttle plate $630, ( He said that's what his computer told him to remedy the hesitation, trying to stall and some bucking). Then, it'll be the second thermostat for this. Now, the lights came back on and the engine again goes down to a low idle instead of the warm up mode. This only has 71000 miles on it. I only put 30000 since I bought it used 10 years ago. I spent $3000 on a full service, tires, rods and links. Only 2 months later the engine started to over heat and the gurgling sounds and all with the system, so instead of opting for the head gasket because the engine block was cracked anyway, I opted for the rebuilt engine which was $3000. Since then, the indicator lights like in this video and the engine symptoms. This is bullsh*t. I don't know of anyone else going through this with one of these.
Man.. I WISH I had a brother like you.. especially RN… *Stuck at work, my 2013 Outback 2.5 is shot* Stuck at work, desperate and don’t have 3-6 grand.. It felt like *Chain slipping* Got to 2.5/3 RPM before moving.. didn’t wanna move far bc I’m nervous to get stuck anywhere that’s not at my shop or home.. But when I tried to drive it yesterday it sounded- felt like my breaks were locked. tired dragged - screeched New tires and brakes 118k on it.. 🙏 In LI/New York.
200,000 miles with earlier CVT technology is nothing to laugh at. Even if he didn't maintain it well he has gotten decent life out of it, obvious reasons why I would choose subies over Nissan any day 🤣
I have all those lights flashing, but don't have the CVT. I have a 2013 Subaru Legacy H6 engine with the 5 speed. I put a voltage meter on the battery, and the voltage was a little low. Low voltage apparently can cause this same thing to happen. Not what happened here unfortunately, but I was able to determine that if I replace the battery I should be fine. To reset the lights until I got a new battery I disconnected the battery for 20 seconds, then reconnected it clearing out all the codes. When I restarted the car, the lights were gone. Still need to replace the battery before it happens again but much cheaper than the CVT here. Interesting that when the check engine line comes on for any reason a bunch of lights come on - I guess Subaru believes its customers are too dumb to react to the check engine light by itself. My rear bearing went about 10,000 miles ago at 120,000 - it made that same noise in my car as it does in your video.
hI. I have a 2017 subaru legacy with the same lights, but absolutely symptoms. No stalling, no slippage, no jerking and no drivability issues. The car drives perfectly fine. i've tried disconnecting the battery for a few hrs but the lights still stay on.
My friends 2011 Forester has an issue where it will randomly die when coming to a stop after coming off the highway. It happens this same way every time. It does not have the CVT trans. Once it dies, it wont restart for a while even in park or neutral. You can eventually get it to restart but it will run rough and die if you don't keep the RPMs slightly elevated. Only code is P0420, no transmission codes. This has happened for the past 2 years intermittently. We usually just do an oil change and maybe clean the throttle body and some other maintenance and it will go a month or longer before it happens again. But it always happens again. We've also replaced the upstream o2, MAF, MAP, both cam position sensors, spark plugs. Cleaned egr valve and passages. Cats are not damaged or clogged. It does have bad oil consumption but is checked/topped off religiously. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I just got the P1710 code and AT oil temp flashing light too. Looks like this one here. Trans slipped a bit, so I cooled it down. Trans level was good but may need to replace filter and valve body. Tribeca has been pretty good other wise. Got a P0700 too. Likely just need to have mech fix it. Runs ok for now.
Hello @MrSubaru1387, I have a 2012 Impreza, 102k mile on it. These lights came on for me. Dealership determined it's the Valve body and replacing it as well as changed the CVT fluid. My question is, from your experience,..after these services, how long would this repair hold up? ie, another 80-100k? granted I keep up with all the maintenance service of course. Thanks!
Just so you guys know, I own a 2011 Legacy 2.5i Premium. I put LED tailights in at and about three days later I had very similar stuff happen to his brother aside from the noises. I took them out put in halogens and it has never happened since. I'm not saying that the Trans Solenoid isn't bad, but if you have LED tailights or LEDs of any kind, give it a try.
Project car! I have the 2012 and want to see how to do some more work on mine. I'm coming up on 65k miles without changing the CVT fluid and would really love to see a drain-and-fill from start to finish.
All my lights(2014 2.5 Outback) are on just like this , but its been driving fine. It does buck everyonce in awhile , but never stalls. I am in Mississippi
Did a head gasket on mine when it was all put back together the at temp light came on without even turning the key all the way. Blinking. It’s not throwing any codes and the scan tool says the light is not on.
I just did the head gaskets on my 2011 Outback and got the lights: Check Engine, flashing Brake, AT Oil Temp {not flashing} Cruise is flashing and the Anti-Skid light is on.. The BlueDriver app had only one code: P0031 which is an H02S {Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1} It's very rare for the Outback. WTH???
Have a 2012 with 77,000 miles. Same lights on with no bucking. over $1300 to fix the issue including a little for routine work. A month later and now it's slipping and bucking and they now want over $10,000 to replace the transmission. This is the second issue with the transmission, first time was soon after I bought it new. Looking for the next vehicle, not much out there of this size and cargo room.
I have a 2011 outback 2.5l limited with the same except no trans temp light. Mine jerks a lot after stopping. Also it is stuck in front wheel drive. I installed a new valve body and new fluid and it is still the same jerking. Where should I go next? Error I get is ecm doesn't communicate with tcm. I'm at a loss
I had the same issue about a year ago. A local shop pulled the codes an estimated me about 2700 for the valve body and controller. And then on a hunch I clean the battery terminals really good and reset, and the error codes went away. About a year later I’m now stalling on hard stops. I have about 140,000 miles. my concern is to do that torque converter and the valve body or just the torque converter.
I have a 2010 OB and there was a TSB on the torque converter that I had done. I made the deadline with about 2 weeks to spare. This was about 3 years ago.
My 2011’s converter failed also. I was stalling at stop signs and traffic lights. Fixed under the complimentary extended warranty TSB but ended up trading the car. CVT longevity made me nervous. I would be a lot happier if they just had a 60k fluid change interval. Every time I tried to get it changed at my dealer - and others nearby - they used to push back on me and say it was lifetime and not to do it. My new Onyx XT has the never low viscosity CVTF they’re using with the newer models and Ascent? But I am planning to push hard for a 60k changeover.
Forester 2014, last summer solenoid died (doesn't remember code), mileage was about 89k km. It was so much not in time, so I've replaced valve body at dealership. Old valve body still lies on the shelf - I want to rewind solenoid. Does it interesting for someone? Should I try to make a video about this?
Mr Subaru, FYI: there will be a major resign of the 2024 Impreza. Seems to me the engine/transmission package should the same as the current model. Mass production starts fall of 2023. Projected build forecast is just under 8,100 a month.
I have a 2012 Outback 2.5i at 190k miles that consistently jerks when accelerating from a stop (only once the engine has warmed up). However if I drive it in manual mode and make sure I start from a stop in “1st”, I don’t have that problem. Subaru dealership told my $8k for a new CVT. So far I’m just going to keep driving it, as long as it keeps working, in manual mode using the paddle shifters.
2016 legacy, 68K, already had that CVT temp light come on while on the highway upstate. Had to pull over and wait for the light to go out but mine solid I believe, not blinking. Wonder what that means lol. Whe merging on the highway, I now have a loud wine, my car sounds like a turbo until up to highway speed. I wonder if it's gonna crap the bed soon. i also get a little bucking (like a kid learning to drive stick) while going slow up hill coming to a stop as in traffic on an uphill. Not all the time but wasn't there prior
Hi bro , i have the same issue facing for 2015 Subaru legacy ! Is if save deive with the signs . Whats the solution to solve it , any other method than re place the cvt valv body , pls asvise
Also I've thought about why Subaru doesn't sell individual solenoid, is it because it makes more sense to replace with a whole new set and Valve body so it's a more complete unit Robert??
I can only assume. Imagine dropping the pan. Wasting $200 in CVTF. Remove vb. Replace solenoid. Reseal pan. Refill. Reprogram. 5,000 miles later, another solenoid fail. Repeat process all over again.
With Snap-On Scanner Do you clear both TCM memories when replacing valve body or just Memory2? You mentioned clearing Adaptive if you want it to relearn by driving.
I have these exact same set of lights on my 2011 Outback intermittently right now....... But I have none of the driving issues. No stalls or noises. Does that mean just the Valve Body needs work, and I can avoid having to change the Torque Converter?
Hi Subaru technician. Good thing I found this video. May I please ask a few questions. My 2012 Subaru legacy Transmission got damage a few months ago. I have basic knowledge working on cars so I've decided to order a used transmission with low mileage for about $1300 in Virginia. After I've changed that transmission immediately I got P0841 "secondary oil pressure" is not reading pressure at all after I put initially 5 quartz and then another 5 quartz with the engine running along changing the gears. I have had to disconnect both transmission hoses from transmission lines and nothing comes out with the engine running. I've returned that transmission and order another one from a different company and I got the same code 1 code P0841 after replacement. On the instrument cluster those lights on your video are the same ones on my car. No transmission pressure and it doesn't engage, it doesn't move at all. What would be your advice? Do you think is a TCU problem or is the transmission damage again? Thank you in advance.
I have a 2011 Outback. Sometimes my car has exactly same situation. So, I try reboot my car. And then it’s back to normal situation. However, i want to fix this. Because, Sometimes I do reboot car twice a day. That’s suck. I will look forward to see your solution. Thank you.
The mpg gauge is just a vacuum gauge. The more you push the gas, the closer to the minus sign the needle points. On newer subarus, it's electronic, and the middle of the gauge represents avg mpg for the current trip.
heyy my 05 outback 3.0r is locked in gear my shifter works and its not my shift cable but no matter what when i crank it i will always start in drive do you know what it could be
Hi Mr. Subaru. I have a 2012 Outback with 236,000 miles that I just bought for $3000. It has the TR690 CVT and I just experienced the Christmas Tree lights and got error codes P0700 and P2762. Took it to local Subaru dealer in Columbia and they want $2300 for Valve Body replacement. I can probably get it replaced for much less (
I need help, my car happened this and I don’t know what to do, the mechanic speak it was transmission, charged 5800 to fix it😢😢😢 I’m super sad I live in Connecticut West Hartford
recently purchased subaru outback 2011 3.6 R with 133k miles. The gas milage seems 9 average.dont know whats wrong. I drive in city. But still thats insane. Any idea?
The dealership replaced my torque converter for $1700 in my 2010. Now when I slow down and the TC unlocks, the tach dips and I hear a squeak. They won't put a valve body in because there aren't any codes. I give them some credit, because most dealers would love another $1500 for a valve body, however at the same time I just want my car to drive normal. It has 187k miles. They told me they ran tons of data on it and there is no sign of chain slippage either. They don't know what to do and neither do I.
can you please do a video on a TZ1B8 trans, none on UTUBE, I HAVE A 2011 OUTBACK SPORT WITH A DOWN SHIFTING PROBLEM, POSSIBLE SOLINOID ISSUE. ALSO A PM. SERVICE. OIL,FILTERS, ECT. THANK YOU, JOHN H.
Apparently you and your brother are opposites - I assume you will never have a rear wheel bearing failure or a cracked windshield for more than an hour.
My 2012 Subaru outback stalls sometimes when I come to a quick stop not always and likes to do it allot when I first start it up for the day. And the rpms jump and engine squeals sometimes when I go over 45 mph.
Send email to Subaru Corporate to insist they replace CVT. They know this is life-threatening. If your cars stalls when you apply brake, and you are rear-ended by a semi-truck, nobody would suspect the failed CVT was cause because there is no identifiable code triggered for this failed part!!!
My wife has a 2010 outback and the Skid light and brake light is blinking. I changed the brake light switch from advanced auto hoping it was the problem from looking at some other youtube videos but the lights are still on. I cleaned the battery terminals. It didn't have any codes on with my tool but its not the professional kind just a basic one. What do you think i should check or do next? Thanks in advance
What transmission is compatible with TR690JHBBA TRANSMISSION can you please help me I buy a new used one for my daughter car but is tr690jhbaa can this one work
My wife’s car has the cruise light flashes, has a check engine light that is solid traction control that is solid and it disable to cruise. I don’t think it shows any codes though which is strange. Has done it since 2016. 2012 2.5. Any thoughts?
Hey @Mrsubaru1387 What codes did you have when you had these issues? I have a 2011 with P0705, The range sensor checks out .o.k.. According to prodemand i should suspect a tcm issue or a short to ground from the range sensor circuit however prodemand common repairs indicates valve body. I havnt driven the subaru much as i just bought it for parts but now i have intent to fix it. Checking for a short to ground from the tcm to the range sensor , if none found I suspect a tcm fault??
My subaru legacy BM9 saloon 2009 model has aproblem.It has 130,000 mileage.It jerks between 0-20 km speed when accelerating.Past 20km the car runs fine.I replaced the spark plugs and cvt oil but still no change.What can be the problem here?
2012 Outback with same warning lights displayed. In addition, I've found that the manual mode won't work when the warning lights are on . If I clear the codes it drives fine until the CEL (and other lights) come back on so I am thinking it might be the TCM.
My subaru legacy BM9 saloon,2009 model jerks between 0 to 15km when accelerating gently.This happened 5 days after changing cvt fluid.What can be the problem?
Mine just started doing this yesterday but without the check enigine light or cruise control flashing. Just wondering if the wiring for the tail lights Share a load with power too the solenoid for the valve body? From what I have been reading is that having led tail lights can cause these lights to come on as well, I changed out the tail lights around a month ago too a aftermarket led set but before that I had led bulbs in the stock houses for a year without any issue. I can't change them back easily to rule it out so I was wondering if you had info knowledge on the electrical aspect of it all
I have a 2013 outback with the chrismas tree problem, shop is telling me the tranny is overheating and a replacement transmission is a must. Just curious what your thoughts are?
I had this happen to me and when I got my code reader on it I got a P0700 code. Would it being too hot cause this issue? I drove to work this morning no problem but when I left work after my car had sat in the parking lot all day with a real feel temp of 114. I let it idle for awhile and the AT Oil temp light went away. Drove home with no problem and cleared the codes when I got home.
Hi I just stumbled on your videos. They are so helpful. I have a 3.6 2011 subaru outback 150K miles on it. I have the bucking and same codes on. Subaru says I need to replace my valve body. I do not have the stalling at stops. Replacing the valve body at a dealership is going to cost me $2000. I am looking for an opinion on if this is worth the fix. Are there more problems that happen down the line with these transmissions. I believe they aren't the CVT. Any advice would be so helpful. Thanks again, Heather
Correct, you have a 5EAT conventional automatic transmission, not a CVT. Without knowing codes, or diagnosing it firsthand, I can't say whether or not their diagnosis is accurate.
I'm calling your brother out for neglect...no visible passenger floorboard, lol. You didn't add the wheel bearing in, 2k (free labor? Say it ain't so!) I stood next to the XT Outback and that Wilderness suspension won't be no soccer mom material. New chassis, raised tuned suspension, big boy wheels...that 5th gen will be an orphan...well with about 40k.
Having a similar but not exactly the same on my 2012 Impreza (NA) 150k. The AT OIL TEMP light is flashing with the check engine light. The car seems to pretty much drive normally with the exception that it will buck once when I first accelerate the car after starting it. How ever it will just do it the once and that’s it (is that just the car letting me know it’s in some sort of limp mode? Also my light starts flashing almost immediately after starting (before the car has had time to get hot). Leads me to wonder if it’s just a sensor or something. Any ideas?
I bought a 2011 outback 2.5i premium and I have the bucking in the 1st and 2nd shows the lockup kicking in when the bucking occurs but I have no codes at all or lights any ideas what it could be thanks.
Forgot to mention price.
Valve body is about $750
Torque Converter is about $750
Fluid is about $200
Labor rate?
100/hr
Ouchie
Could it not be that the lockup solenoid is causing the stalling and the TC is good? Just think how lucky you guys are in the states, the subi HT cvt fluid is $800 AUD ($600US) for a 20 ltr can, (cant buy it any other way)
Have you not still got the old valve body off the other car you replaced? Are all the solenoids the same? maybe swapsy?
$1,800 ball park out the door price?
Me: "Fixing it will cost $800"
Family member: "I can't afford that!"
Me: "The dealer said $2700"
Family member: "How soon can you start?"
I need you family member phone#,I have to do my :)
lmao
Dealer in LA says more closer to $4.7K
I swear dealer adjuster think their customers are loaded or something.
@@nuttietrendchannel4265 The goal of the dealer is to hand over an estimate so high that you will decide the car is not economically fixable, giving them another customer for one of their new (or newer) ones.
2016 Legacy 2.5i, this beauty is currently just over 196k and we are barely dealing with these issues. Glad to see other subi’s owners have also put in those miles or more & I most definitely will b getting another! Ty for some great insight !!
- Took me a while to finally get around to watching this. This car hit 200,000. That's really good, especially considering your brother doesn't keep up with maint. Most I've seen with this problem were nearing 60k and they were all Outbacks. Great vid 👍🏾TY for sharing
As some with this gen outback, I hope it's your next project car 😊
If you get 200k miles out of a car with just routine maintenance you got a great car. Anybody watching this channel is a mechanic of sorts, so these 200k mile cars with no problems got good routine maintenance, minor stuff fixed when it broke. The best thing about subies is they are not complex cars, in their design. They also in my opinion have excellent factory repair manuals.
I do like my 2013 Subuaru Legacy H6. I have now 130,000 on it. Lost the master brake cylinder at 115,000. Lost the rear wheel bearing at 120,000. Lost the front control arms at 125,000 as well as a rubber seal went on the rear differential (rubber parts fail on all my cars at around this point and start leaking oil). Now at 130,000 and have another oil leak - I think it is on the rubber seal for the valve covers on both sides. Everything else has been maintenance (oil changes, batteries, tires, etc.). Still a good car considering the price for what you get.
Not even relevant to this video, but just wanted to say that I am super glad you put out this info and all other vids of info relevant to Subbies!
THANK YOU!!!
Havent even checked if you have recent vids up, cause my feed only shows your content from 3 and 4 years ago. I know its a lot of work to put this stuff out there. I look forward to viewing more of your content!🙂
June 29th just got my 2014 outback out of local trans shop ,,,had the po700 and the p2764 pulled by my brother in-laws shop,he wouldn't let me buy him lunch , and he called down the road for trans guys that Know their Tran,s and YES it was Spot ON!!! So it Cost me 1300 out the door,I will be looking under car this morning for leaks , but it drives Great I've drove this car. 90k with No problems , just a re-call for airbag,s I do all other things myself So I really follow the Smarter that guide me to success,,,Thank you for your expertise and idiosyncrasies.peace.
Welp, just brought my 2011 OB in for service because of these exact CVT issues (today!)... When I got home, found this video and everything is now so clear! TY 1387.
It appears that this situation comes down to only one real option: Negotiating with SOA in hopes of finding an affordable solution. A 2011 OB with 128.5K miles is worth only $4.5Kish according to Kelly Blue Book. How can one justify spending more then that to fix their tranny???
Don't get me wrong, this ride has been outstanding and amazingly reliable! (drove it down to the Mexico, Yucatan Peninsula for 7 months {10K+ miles trip} and no hablo español. Thank GOD my ride was flawless!!! BTW, very few Subaru dealers down there). I Love this ride and it will break my heart if I have to give her up... There's gotta be an affordable solution???
Same thing just happened to me today. Exact same images. 2012 had towed to my guy and he called me with the same conclusion you said. 1K to fix it and all the fluids.
I saw ‘cvt trouble’ in the title and thought to myself ‘damn… that’s not good’… then I saw the odo at 199k miles and then I’m like ‘oh okay… whew’ hahah
this is a likely failure? or cumulative preventative would have addressed this?
Over 350k on my cvt
@@Hallowsaw Issue is at least in the US Subaru has the fluid for the CVT as 'lifetime', so most people just reading their manual are thinking they never need to replace it.
@@occckid123 what year and model?
As someone with a 2009 Outback, thanks for the heads-up on the rear wheel bearings.
I have an aquaintence that dabbles in a Subaru CVT business that has supplied me with CVTs for my shop after going through valve body solenoids and torque converts. He insists the cause is overheating and thinks the radiator cooling system is not adequate and has installed aftermarket tranny coolers in front of the a/c condenser with good results. So far I have replaced three of his with good results with the extra cooling.
I guess everyone has a sibling that doesn’t take care of their stuff
I have 160k on my 2011 OB Premium and the torque convertor has been going bad for the last 15k or so - doesn't stall each time or very often but is just an occasional issue. I've also replaced that passenger side rear wheel bearing (went bad at 147k, the dealer charged me $700 to replace). I'm rolling the dice on that torque convertor as the dealer wants $1400 to replace it and that dollar amount is a large percentage of what the car is worth.
I have a 2010 Outback 2.5i, and the valve body failed at 139k miles. Subaru replaced it under the extended warranty. Prior to the valve body failure, I was getting some stalls from the TC, but they couldn’t repeat it at the dealer, so they wouldn’t replace it. Once I got to 150k, the TC issue became more noticeable, and they were able to repeat it at the dealer. Unfortunately, I was beyond the extended warranty at that point, but I got Subaru to pay for half of a new TC. I’m now at 164k miles, and I hope to get another 100k miles like some others here. I put 300k miles on my ‘95 Legacy wagon with no major repairs. Despite these CVT issues, I still think Subaru makes great, reliable cars.
How did you get Subaru to cover half of the cost. My 18 Outback is at 107k miles, just over the warranty period. Wondering if they'll do the same for me.
Any update on how they covered you
I recently had the exact lights oil temp and brake. There a service bulletin now. It was my tail brake light burned out. Bulb replaces no more lights
Replacing the brake bulbs turned the flashing brake light off?
I have a 2011 Subaru outback, first code was transmission module control, next was o2 sensor, now it's the p2763 torque converter solenoid. 145000 miles. I wont buy another one that I cant work on. I loved my 06 outback. Next vehicle will be back to my chevys. My truck has 216000+ on it no problems. I can work on it.
Been there done that on 2011 Outback. This failure replaced the head gasket failure.
I had a 11 Outback and the only thing that was weird for me was the hesitancy from a standing stop (there was a delay of 1 to 2 seconds from hitting the accelerator to actually moving forward) that Outback was replaced due to a bad accident (rear ended, totaling it out).
I have a 14 Outback (after my 2011 Outback was wrecked) that currently has 110K miles. I have done all the basics (Coolant, front/rear differential, plugs, front/rear brakes) I also replace the oil with Idemistu oil every 5K miles (I could probably go longer, but I never heard of any bad things happening when oil is changed before it needs to be changed) I will be checking the fluid in the CVT within the next 5-10K miles. But the Outback runs great and has not given me a reason to consider replacing it (but that new Turbo is awfully enticing).
I understand that in 2013, Subaru upgraded the CVT. Is there anything I should be aware of or do to ensure it has a long trouble-free life?
Never changed cvt fluid?
@@DM-hw4cr Not yet. I have to get it checked before 125k miles. If it is bad, then I will replace it. It's supposed to be SUPER expensive to replace.
Routine maintenance with my 2011 Legacy. I had to replace the engine, so I had a rebuilt one from a company online (ENGINESUS). Had someone replace the old to rebuilt. At least 4 times now that I've had to deal with these lights issue. First, the guy told me it was the throttle plate $630, ( He said that's what his computer told him to remedy the hesitation, trying to stall and some bucking). Then, it'll be the second thermostat for this. Now, the lights came back on and the engine again goes down to a low idle instead of the warm up mode.
This only has 71000 miles on it. I only put 30000 since I bought it used 10 years ago. I spent $3000 on a full service, tires, rods and links. Only 2 months later the engine started to over heat and the gurgling sounds and all with the system, so instead of opting for the head gasket because the engine block was cracked anyway, I opted for the rebuilt engine which was $3000. Since then, the indicator lights like in this video and the engine symptoms. This is bullsh*t. I don't know of anyone else going through this with one of these.
Very grateful for your experience. Thanks for sharing it.🙏😎
Man.. I WISH I had a brother like you.. especially RN…
*Stuck at work, my 2013 Outback 2.5 is shot*
Stuck at work, desperate and don’t have 3-6 grand..
It felt like *Chain slipping*
Got to 2.5/3 RPM before moving..
didn’t wanna move far bc I’m nervous to get stuck anywhere that’s not at my shop or home..
But when I tried to drive it yesterday it sounded- felt like my breaks were locked. tired dragged - screeched
New tires and brakes
118k on it..
🙏
In LI/New York.
On my 2013 2.5L at 65,000 miles I had this situation and the Subaru dealer fixed it at no charge. I believe it was a solenoid.
i have a 2013 as well at 90k how did you get them to do it free??
200,000 miles with earlier CVT technology is nothing to laugh at. Even if he didn't maintain it well he has gotten decent life out of it, obvious reasons why I would choose subies over Nissan any day 🤣
💯
I have all those lights flashing, but don't have the CVT. I have a 2013 Subaru Legacy H6 engine with the 5 speed. I put a voltage meter on the battery, and the voltage was a little low. Low voltage apparently can cause this same thing to happen. Not what happened here unfortunately, but I was able to determine that if I replace the battery I should be fine. To reset the lights until I got a new battery I disconnected the battery for 20 seconds, then reconnected it clearing out all the codes. When I restarted the car, the lights were gone. Still need to replace the battery before it happens again but much cheaper than the CVT here. Interesting that when the check engine line comes on for any reason a bunch of lights come on - I guess Subaru believes its customers are too dumb to react to the check engine light by itself. My rear bearing went about 10,000 miles ago at 120,000 - it made that same noise in my car as it does in your video.
hI. I have a 2017 subaru legacy with the same lights, but absolutely symptoms. No stalling, no slippage, no jerking and no drivability issues. The car drives perfectly fine. i've tried disconnecting the battery for a few hrs but the lights still stay on.
My friends 2011 Forester has an issue where it will randomly die when coming to a stop after coming off the highway. It happens this same way every time. It does not have the CVT trans. Once it dies, it wont restart for a while even in park or neutral. You can eventually get it to restart but it will run rough and die if you don't keep the RPMs slightly elevated. Only code is P0420, no transmission codes. This has happened for the past 2 years intermittently. We usually just do an oil change and maybe clean the throttle body and some other maintenance and it will go a month or longer before it happens again. But it always happens again. We've also replaced the upstream o2, MAF, MAP, both cam position sensors, spark plugs. Cleaned egr valve and passages. Cats are not damaged or clogged. It does have bad oil consumption but is checked/topped off religiously.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I just got the P1710 code and AT oil temp flashing light too. Looks like this one here. Trans slipped a bit, so I cooled it down. Trans level was good but may need to replace filter and valve body. Tribeca has been pretty good other wise. Got a P0700 too. Likely just need to have mech fix it. Runs ok for now.
Hello @MrSubaru1387, I have a 2012 Impreza, 102k mile on it. These lights came on for me. Dealership determined it's the Valve body and replacing it as well as changed the CVT fluid. My question is, from your experience,..after these services, how long would this repair hold up? ie, another 80-100k? granted I keep up with all the maintenance service of course. Thanks!
Just so you guys know, I own a 2011 Legacy 2.5i Premium. I put LED tailights in at and about three days later I had very similar stuff happen to his brother aside from the noises. I took them out put in halogens and it has never happened since. I'm not saying that the Trans Solenoid isn't bad, but if you have LED tailights or LEDs of any kind, give it a try.
@@jo300hn I had almost the exact same side effects, all I was saying is led lights can cause some of these side effects other than the noised.
Project car! I have the 2012 and want to see how to do some more work on mine. I'm coming up on 65k miles without changing the CVT fluid and would really love to see a drain-and-fill from start to finish.
Boy, I want to own a Subaru with MrSubaru as my brother!
I hope he sells it to you to rebuild it! its would be cool to see a newer subaru on the channel (aside from crosstreck)
I thought 2010-2014s used a TR580 for the 2.5i and 5EAT for the 3.6r
Merci pour ta vidéo, ma Subaru outback 2011 fait la même chose !!!👍👍👍
Purchased a 2011 outback with minor issues for a great price. Car is loaded. A couple hundred dollars for minor stuff and I got a great car.
All my lights(2014 2.5 Outback) are on just like this , but its been driving fine. It does buck everyonce in awhile , but never stalls. I am in Mississippi
Did a head gasket on mine when it was all put back together the at temp light came on without even turning the key all the way. Blinking. It’s not throwing any codes and the scan tool says the light is not on.
I just did the head gaskets on my 2011 Outback and got the lights: Check Engine, flashing Brake, AT Oil Temp {not flashing} Cruise is flashing and the Anti-Skid light is on.. The BlueDriver app had only one code: P0031 which is an H02S {Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1} It's very rare for the Outback. WTH???
Have a 2012 with 77,000 miles. Same lights on with no bucking. over $1300 to fix the issue including a little for routine work. A month later and now it's slipping and bucking and they now want over $10,000 to replace the transmission. This is the second issue with the transmission, first time was soon after I bought it new. Looking for the next vehicle, not much out there of this size and cargo room.
I have a 2011 outback 2.5l limited with the same except no trans temp light. Mine jerks a lot after stopping. Also it is stuck in front wheel drive. I installed a new valve body and new fluid and it is still the same jerking. Where should I go next? Error I get is ecm doesn't communicate with tcm. I'm at a loss
@MrSubaru1387 This whistle noise coming out from Torque Converter? I have same issue but only whistle noise
I had the same issue about a year ago. A local shop pulled the codes an estimated me about 2700 for the valve body and controller. And then on a hunch I clean the battery terminals really good and reset, and the error codes went away. About a year later I’m now stalling on hard stops. I have about 140,000 miles. my concern is to do that torque converter and the valve body or just the torque converter.
213k on my 2010 Outback…code 2763, 14.1mpg ….could it be dirty trans fluid?
Have you ever put a used JDM transmission in a 2011 Subaru Outback?
I have a 2010 OB and there was a TSB on the torque converter that I had done. I made the deadline with about 2 weeks to spare. This was about 3 years ago.
Yeah, they did cover them under the 10yr 100k mile warranty extension.
@@MrSubaru1387 for mine at least the 100k was waived. I was easily over 150k and am currently at 260k and running strong.
My 2011’s converter failed also. I was stalling at stop signs and traffic lights. Fixed under the complimentary extended warranty TSB but ended up trading the car. CVT longevity made me nervous. I would be a lot happier if they just had a 60k fluid change interval. Every time I tried to get it changed at my dealer - and others nearby - they used to push back on me and say it was lifetime and not to do it.
My new Onyx XT has the never low viscosity CVTF they’re using with the newer models and Ascent? But I am planning to push hard for a 60k changeover.
Forester 2014, last summer solenoid died (doesn't remember code), mileage was about 89k km. It was so much not in time, so I've replaced valve body at dealership. Old valve body still lies on the shelf - I want to rewind solenoid.
Does it interesting for someone? Should I try to make a video about this?
Mr Subaru,
FYI: there will be a major resign of the 2024 Impreza. Seems to me the engine/transmission package should the same as the current model. Mass production starts fall of 2023.
Projected build forecast is just under 8,100 a month.
'23
My TR580 Does this. I am ordering TC and Valve body to replace... Your videos have made it possible for me todo myself. Cheers.
I have a 2012 Outback 2.5i at 190k miles that consistently jerks when accelerating from a stop (only once the engine has warmed up). However if I drive it in manual mode and make sure I start from a stop in “1st”, I don’t have that problem. Subaru dealership told my $8k for a new CVT. So far I’m just going to keep driving it, as long as it keeps working, in manual mode using the paddle shifters.
Exact same
Even my 09 with the 4eat drives/shifts better in in the sport and manual modes, must be just a subaru thing
My 2012 Outback will not go to manual mode. Display shows a -
2016 legacy, 68K, already had that CVT temp light come on while on the highway upstate. Had to pull over and wait for the light to go out but mine solid I believe, not blinking. Wonder what that means lol. Whe merging on the highway, I now have a loud wine, my car sounds like a turbo until up to highway speed. I wonder if it's gonna crap the bed soon. i also get a little bucking (like a kid learning to drive stick) while going slow up hill coming to a stop as in traffic on an uphill. Not all the time but wasn't there prior
Is the transmission from a 2011 legacy sedan same as the 2011 outback? Found one from a legacy for $900 with 75k miles, just not sure it will fit
Hi bro , i have the same issue facing for 2015 Subaru legacy !
Is if save deive with the signs . Whats the solution to solve it , any other method than re place the cvt valv body , pls asvise
Hoping to see some more videos on this car!
Also I've thought about why Subaru doesn't sell individual solenoid, is it because it makes more sense to replace with a whole new set and Valve body so it's a more complete unit Robert??
I can only assume. Imagine dropping the pan. Wasting $200 in CVTF. Remove vb. Replace solenoid. Reseal pan. Refill. Reprogram. 5,000 miles later, another solenoid fail. Repeat process all over again.
With Snap-On Scanner Do you clear both TCM memories when replacing valve body or just Memory2? You mentioned clearing Adaptive if you want it to relearn by driving.
I have these exact same set of lights on my 2011 Outback intermittently right now....... But I have none of the driving issues. No stalls or noises.
Does that mean just the Valve Body needs work, and I can avoid having to change the Torque Converter?
They can fail the solenoid without any advise driving symptoms. Seen it before.
Hi Subaru technician. Good thing I found this video. May I please ask a few questions.
My 2012 Subaru legacy Transmission got damage a few months ago. I have basic knowledge working on cars so I've decided to order a used transmission with low mileage for about $1300 in Virginia. After I've changed that transmission immediately I got P0841 "secondary oil pressure" is not reading pressure at all after I put initially 5 quartz and then another 5 quartz with the engine running along changing the gears. I have had to disconnect both transmission hoses from transmission lines and nothing comes out with the engine running.
I've returned that transmission and order another one from a different company and I got the same code 1 code P0841 after replacement. On the instrument cluster those lights on your video are the same ones on my car. No transmission pressure and it doesn't engage, it doesn't move at all.
What would be your advice? Do you think is a TCU problem or is the transmission damage again? Thank you in advance.
I wish he would answer!
I have a 2011 outback, replaced abs module, same lights, all went out but have one code c0044 no communication. With vsc light. Manual transmission.
Had that issue for my 2010 outback around 40kmi would stall at stops got they replaced the torque converter for me for free at the dealership
I change my rotors and disc on my 2013 subaru legacy and now I have all those light on
But not the cruse
I have a 2011 Outback. Sometimes my car has exactly same situation. So, I try reboot my car. And then it’s back to normal situation.
However, i want to fix this. Because, Sometimes I do reboot car twice a day. That’s suck. I will look forward to see your solution. Thank you.
Bro this is exactly my car…. The lights the winshield everything
Wow.... they had a needle for MPG on those? Wow.... I like the lights in my 2016ob cluster.... I think that needle wiggling around would mess me up...
The mpg gauge is just a vacuum gauge. The more you push the gas, the closer to the minus sign the needle points. On newer subarus, it's electronic, and the middle of the gauge represents avg mpg for the current trip.
heyy my 05 outback 3.0r is locked in gear my shifter works and its not my shift cable but no matter what when i crank it i will always start in drive do you know what it could be
Hi Mr. Subaru. I have a 2012 Outback with 236,000 miles that I just bought for $3000. It has the TR690 CVT and I just experienced the Christmas Tree lights and got error codes P0700 and P2762. Took it to local Subaru dealer in Columbia and they want $2300 for Valve Body replacement. I can probably get it replaced for much less (
I need help, my car happened this and I don’t know what to do, the mechanic speak it was transmission, charged 5800 to fix it😢😢😢 I’m super sad I live in Connecticut West Hartford
What scan tool do you use to scan for trouble codes & to relearn the transmission for Subaru ?
Subaru Select Monitor III factory scan tool or my Snap-on ZEUS.
@@MrSubaru1387 please send link to a reliable source to purchase the Subaru Select Monitor lll factory scan tool. Thank you.
I hear the noise. I have a 2011 outback with 261k.
recently purchased subaru outback 2011 3.6 R with 133k miles. The gas milage seems 9 average.dont know whats wrong. I drive in city. But still thats insane. Any idea?
Family is family......😊
I had a torque converter go out on my 2011 Legacy. It only had like 80,000 miles
The dealership replaced my torque converter for $1700 in my 2010. Now when I slow down and the TC unlocks, the tach dips and I hear a squeak. They won't put a valve body in because there aren't any codes. I give them some credit, because most dealers would love another $1500 for a valve body, however at the same time I just want my car to drive normal. It has 187k miles.
They told me they ran tons of data on it and there is no sign of chain slippage either. They don't know what to do and neither do I.
Hmm. Sounds like chain slip from the description.
My 2011 Outback jitters at takeoff in Automatic but doesn't when I'm in Manual.
can you please do a video on a TZ1B8 trans, none on UTUBE, I HAVE A 2011 OUTBACK SPORT WITH A DOWN SHIFTING PROBLEM, POSSIBLE SOLINOID ISSUE. ALSO A PM. SERVICE.
OIL,FILTERS, ECT. THANK YOU, JOHN H.
what is the difference between lock up duty solenoid circuit low, and high? P2764 vs P2763
Apparently you and your brother are opposites - I assume you will never have a rear wheel bearing failure or a cracked windshield for more than an hour.
My 2012 Subaru outback stalls sometimes when I come to a quick stop not always and likes to do it allot when I first start it up for the day. And the rpms jump and engine squeals sometimes when I go over 45 mph.
Send email to Subaru Corporate to insist they replace CVT. They know this is life-threatening. If your cars stalls when you apply brake, and you are rear-ended by a semi-truck, nobody would suspect the failed CVT was cause because there is no identifiable code triggered for this failed part!!!
I'm getting christmas lights going on in the 2015 outback dash AFTER i changed the battery. is this just a re-learning process with new battery?
What do you recommend for service interval for the 2.4 turbo. Engine oil.
My wife has a 2010 outback and the Skid light and brake light is blinking. I changed the brake light switch from advanced auto hoping it was the problem from looking at some other youtube videos but the lights are still on. I cleaned the battery terminals. It didn't have any codes on with my tool but its not the professional kind just a basic one. What do you think i should check or do next? Thanks in advance
What transmission is compatible with TR690JHBBA TRANSMISSION can you please help me I buy a new used one for my daughter car but is tr690jhbaa can this one work
My wife’s car has the cruise light flashes, has a check engine light that is solid traction control that is solid and it disable to cruise. I don’t think it shows any codes though which is strange. Has done it since 2016. 2012 2.5. Any thoughts?
Hey @Mrsubaru1387 What codes did you have when you had these issues? I have a 2011 with P0705, The range sensor checks out .o.k.. According to prodemand i should suspect a tcm issue or a short to ground from the range sensor circuit however prodemand common repairs indicates valve body. I havnt driven the subaru much as i just bought it for parts but now i have intent to fix it. Checking for a short to ground from the tcm to the range sensor , if none found I suspect a tcm fault??
My subaru legacy BM9 saloon 2009 model has aproblem.It has 130,000 mileage.It jerks between 0-20 km speed when accelerating.Past 20km the car runs fine.I replaced the spark plugs and cvt oil but still no change.What can be the problem here?
2012 Outback with same warning lights displayed. In addition, I've found that the manual mode won't work when the warning lights are on . If I clear the codes it drives fine until the CEL (and other lights) come back on so I am thinking it might be the TCM.
Fix? Try brake switch?
My subaru legacy BM9 saloon,2009 model jerks between 0 to 15km when accelerating gently.This happened 5 days after changing cvt fluid.What can be the problem?
I have a 2013 Outback that won’t move in drive or reverse. It is throwing codes p0841 and p0700. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
Mine just started doing this yesterday but without the check enigine light or cruise control flashing. Just wondering if the wiring for the tail lights Share a load with power too the solenoid for the valve body? From what I have been reading is that having led tail lights can cause these lights to come on as well, I changed out the tail lights around a month ago too a aftermarket led set but before that I had led bulbs in the stock houses for a year without any issue. I can't change them back easily to rule it out so I was wondering if you had info knowledge on the electrical aspect of it all
I have a 2013 outback with the chrismas tree problem, shop is telling me the tranny is overheating and a replacement transmission is a must. Just curious what your thoughts are?
I had this happen to me and when I got my code reader on it I got a P0700 code. Would it being too hot cause this issue? I drove to work this morning no problem but when I left work after my car had sat in the parking lot all day with a real feel temp of 114. I let it idle for awhile and the AT Oil temp light went away. Drove home with no problem and cleared the codes when I got home.
Is his torque converter making noise?? Something is wrong with my subie and I need help😔
Hi I just stumbled on your videos. They are so helpful. I have a 3.6 2011 subaru outback 150K miles on it. I have the bucking and same codes on. Subaru says I need to replace my valve body. I do not have the stalling at stops. Replacing the valve body at a dealership is going to cost me $2000.
I am looking for an opinion on if this is worth the fix. Are there more problems that happen down the line with these transmissions. I believe they aren't the CVT. Any advice would be so helpful.
Thanks again,
Heather
Correct, you have a 5EAT conventional automatic transmission, not a CVT. Without knowing codes, or diagnosing it firsthand, I can't say whether or not their diagnosis is accurate.
I'm calling your brother out for neglect...no visible passenger floorboard, lol. You didn't add the wheel bearing in, 2k (free labor? Say it ain't so!) I stood next to the XT Outback and that Wilderness suspension won't be no soccer mom material. New chassis, raised tuned suspension, big boy wheels...that 5th gen will be an orphan...well with about 40k.
One question my subaru forester 2005 turns on the check engine and the cruze control for what reason I would like if you can help me
Gotta replace my valve body and o rings for a 16 legacy at 150k miles…o rings are at least a month out so I can’t drive the car right now
sinse drives with that failure can damage the transmission?
Having a similar but not exactly the same on my 2012 Impreza (NA) 150k. The AT OIL TEMP light is flashing with the check engine light. The car seems to pretty much drive normally with the exception that it will buck once when I first accelerate the car after starting it. How ever it will just do it the once and that’s it (is that just the car letting me know it’s in some sort of limp mode? Also my light starts flashing almost immediately after starting (before the car has had time to get hot). Leads me to wonder if it’s just a sensor or something. Any ideas?
Get a code check - possibly solenoid malfunction.
I changed the bearing cv axle etc the problem is definitely the transmission
I bought a 2011 outback 2.5i premium and I have the bucking in the 1st and 2nd shows the lockup kicking in when the bucking occurs but I have no codes at all or lights any ideas what it could be thanks.
im glad i have that 10yr 100k bumper to bumper