I am at 1:50; from what I have seen, it is fake. After watching the rest of the video, the second Mitutoyo is real. I wish he had shown the battery contacts on the second one, though.
Based on the printing on box and the LR battery inserted I’m leaning towards fake. When you open the calipers what does the start of the depth gauge slot look like? (right behind where the label would rest when closed ) Its it machined rounded and uniform depth? Or is it more square at the end and tapered? How’s the battery life?
The depth gauge slide has an almost rectangular profile (half equilateral pentagon in the transverse plane/no rounding). Battery life is several months.
@@diezelle57 Based on that I’d conclude that it’s indeed fake. The genuine Mitutoyo are machined to have a rounded endpoint for the gauge channel, and the genuine units have quality electronic design that allows the batteries to last up to 5 years…With heavy use more like 3 years.
@@holdentrout7193 No rounded end for the gauge channel on my MITUTOYO 4" model, the origin of which is beyond doubt. Also your criterion does not seem relevant.
@@diezelle57 have you watched any of the videos that compare the fake vs genuine? All the fakes have the same packaging as yours, a LR Battery already installed with a SR stapled on the card, poor battery life, the fake paperwork with red stamps, the same VCI paper as yours, and the back channel isn’t machined the same as on an authentic. So I find the criterion to be relevant 🤷🏼♂️. It really sucks that Amazon allows counterfeit sellers on their platform, but I would say with almost 100% certainty that your were sold a counterfeit product.
@@holdentrout7193 You had specified an irrelevant criterion, I remind you, and you add a ton that I know, a litany with variable geometry that is found everywhere and never justified. What is really a huge nonsense is that MITUTOYO is unable to have its products authenticated directly on its site, by a scratch code for example, and to properly monitor its Chinese factories! So much so, faced with the risk of fraud, that one is more tempted to buy Sylvac or Tesa.
Definitely a fake one. Judging by the yellow arc (near AOS Absolute Digimatic text) that should be thinner and the arc itself should stop right above the 'O' from the 'absolute'.
Your callipers seem to be hitting many of the fake markers; clamp screw captive ? Should be, depth gauge narrow end is too long, wrong battery installed, holes in plastic cover not concentric with screws, channel for depth gauge has a tapered entry (genuine one has a step), serial number on paperwork should be exactly the same ink shade and font as the other data.
The best way to test it 100% is to remove battery and when you insert it back if it's odiginal it should show first couple lines across the screen. However if it just turns on, without that, it's 100% fake. Also you can check the box of it says madi in Japan written in plastic. From all of the evidence in this video it's definitely a clone, you can check detailed comparison on UA-cam. For example that yellow line that goes avove Absolute should be thiner and longer and also when it should be "First!" without space, not "First !". It's not original Mitutoyo but it's good for the price I guess.
Bonjou,r, merci pour la vidéo, j'en ai un original, le votre c'est un faux, on le vois au finitions, mais c'est pas grave si il fonctionne bien et si c'est moins chère @+++ bonne journée.
Disons qu'il présente une erreur systématique de - 2/100e (sur étalon Mitutoyo). Le gros fake est qu'il n'affiche pas des tirets lors de l'introduction d'une pile pour le réglage du zéro absolu ...
I say fake when you turned it on the numbers should show - - - - - - across the screen instead of numbers and on depth guage the end bit should be short
Hello! I have some questions. 1. Is the fixing screw completely unscrewed? 2. Are there red seals in the holes on the case? 3. Does the bottom of the box say "made in japan"? I have a suspicion to believe that this is the original, but I need to answer questions. By measurements: you need to calibrate zero. Try not to squeeze the jaws too hard and press zero reset. I had an error in the measurements of the standards -0.01, I did this and now everything is accurate. ua-cam.com/video/jtI7JbK9hQA/v-deo.html
1: the locking screw can be completely unscrewed and removed. 2: No red paint on the two case assembly screws. 3: no inscription "made in japan" engraved below the box. 4: the ABS calibration procedure (display of three dashes when inserting the battery) does not exist. 5: on a 25 mm gauge block (Mitutoyo), measurement of 24.97 mm. 6: this is a fake.
This fake is very high quality. And yet, the Japanese do not put foam rubber in the box. When you bought it, were you told that it was made in Japan? The seller himself is not a Chinese by any chance? :)
@@alexsandr5 It seems to me that Mitutoyo is made in China, this might explain that ... I checked on the Mitutoyo site with the serial number: it is not recognized. At the time of my purchase (on Amazon), I did not know that there were many fakes. In short, I kept it but I do not use it. I use my other calipers (Mitutoyo 4" (a real one!), Sylvac, Tesa (with Bluetooth), Igaging 6" (with Bluetooth) and 4", Shahe).
@@christofkowa No, the increase is not reliable. The only argument: when installing the battery, the display of my copy does not show dashes for the calibration of the ABS mode (Origin).
I am at 1:50; from what I have seen, it is fake. After watching the rest of the video, the second Mitutoyo is real. I wish he had shown the battery contacts on the second one, though.
Are you in a rainforest?
Based on the printing on box and the LR battery inserted I’m leaning towards fake. When you open the calipers what does the start of the depth gauge slot look like? (right behind where the label would rest when closed ) Its it machined rounded and uniform depth? Or is it more square at the end and tapered? How’s the battery life?
The depth gauge slide has an almost rectangular profile (half equilateral pentagon in the transverse plane/no rounding). Battery life is several months.
@@diezelle57 Based on that I’d conclude that it’s indeed fake. The genuine Mitutoyo are machined to have a rounded endpoint for the gauge channel, and the genuine units have quality electronic design that allows the batteries to last up to 5 years…With heavy use more like 3 years.
@@holdentrout7193 No rounded end for the gauge channel on my MITUTOYO 4" model, the origin of which is beyond doubt. Also your criterion does not seem relevant.
@@diezelle57 have you watched any of the videos that compare the fake vs genuine? All the fakes have the same packaging as yours, a LR Battery already installed with a SR stapled on the card, poor battery life, the fake paperwork with red stamps, the same VCI paper as yours, and the back channel isn’t machined the same as on an authentic. So I find the criterion to be relevant 🤷🏼♂️. It really sucks that Amazon allows counterfeit sellers on their platform, but I would say with almost 100% certainty that your were sold a counterfeit product.
@@holdentrout7193 You had specified an irrelevant criterion, I remind you, and you add a ton that I know, a litany with variable geometry that is found everywhere and never justified. What is really a huge nonsense is that MITUTOYO is unable to have its products authenticated directly on its site, by a scratch code for example, and to properly monitor its Chinese factories! So much so, faced with the risk of fraud, that one is more tempted to buy Sylvac or Tesa.
Definitely a fake one. Judging by the yellow arc (near AOS Absolute Digimatic text) that should be thinner and the arc itself should stop right above the 'O' from the 'absolute'.
I’d say it’s half real and half fake which means it’s a counterfeit caliper. Fake fake fake
Your callipers seem to be hitting many of the fake markers; clamp screw captive ? Should be, depth gauge narrow end is too long, wrong battery installed, holes in plastic cover not concentric with screws, channel for depth gauge has a tapered entry (genuine one has a step), serial number on paperwork should be exactly the same ink shade and font as the other data.
The best way to test it 100% is to remove battery and when you insert it back if it's odiginal it should show first couple lines across the screen. However if it just turns on, without that, it's 100% fake. Also you can check the box of it says madi in Japan written in plastic.
From all of the evidence in this video it's definitely a clone, you can check detailed comparison on UA-cam.
For example that yellow line that goes avove Absolute should be thiner and longer and also when it should be "First!" without space, not "First !".
It's not original Mitutoyo but it's good for the price I guess.
Enfin une réponse correcte d'une personne compétente ! :)
@@diezelle57 not sure if I understand, but thanks 😉, I mean my French is really bad but I kinda understand. 👌💪✌️
Hi! Where can I see the originals and compare them by characteristics? 😊
Bonjou,r, merci pour la vidéo, j'en ai un original, le votre c'est un faux, on le vois au finitions, mais c'est pas grave si il fonctionne bien et si c'est moins chère @+++ bonne journée.
Disons qu'il présente une erreur systématique de - 2/100e (sur étalon Mitutoyo). Le gros fake est qu'il n'affiche pas des tirets lors de l'introduction d'une pile pour le réglage du zéro absolu ...
@@diezelle57 Bonjour, oui quand on met la pile il y à des tirets et on appui sur le bouton pour l'étalonnage, bon dimanche à vous @+++
I say fake when you turned it on the numbers should show - - - - - - across the screen instead of numbers and on depth guage the end bit should be short
Hello! I have some questions. 1. Is the fixing screw completely unscrewed? 2. Are there red seals in the holes on the case? 3. Does the bottom of the box say "made in japan"? I have a suspicion to believe that this is the original, but I need to answer questions. By measurements: you need to calibrate zero. Try not to squeeze the jaws too hard and press zero reset. I had an error in the measurements of the standards -0.01, I did this and now everything is accurate. ua-cam.com/video/jtI7JbK9hQA/v-deo.html
1: the locking screw can be completely unscrewed and removed.
2: No red paint on the two case assembly screws.
3: no inscription "made in japan" engraved below the box.
4: the ABS calibration procedure (display of three dashes when inserting the battery) does not exist.
5: on a 25 mm gauge block (Mitutoyo), measurement of 24.97 mm.
6: this is a fake.
This fake is very high quality. And yet, the Japanese do not put foam rubber in the box. When you bought it, were you told that it was made in Japan? The seller himself is not a Chinese by any chance? :)
@@alexsandr5 It seems to me that Mitutoyo is made in China, this might explain that ... I checked on the Mitutoyo site with the serial number: it is not recognized. At the time of my purchase (on Amazon), I did not know that there were many fakes. In short, I kept it but I do not use it. I use my other calipers (Mitutoyo 4" (a real one!), Sylvac, Tesa (with Bluetooth), Igaging 6" (with Bluetooth) and 4", Shahe).
If you paid $300 for it, it is "real", and if you paid $30, it is definitely a fake.
Fake. But a pretty nice fake though
Fake. Yellow painting not real.
False yes but nothing to do with painting...
@@diezelle57 the painting on the right side is to thick and locks diffrent to the original. Oh, and the original doesn't have the foam insert either.
@@christofkowa No, the increase is not reliable. The only argument: when installing the battery, the display of my copy does not show dashes for the calibration of the ABS mode (Origin).
Fake
Prouvez-le.
Looks like the original tool
Dude, do You live in jungle? Also they are FAKE.
Fake