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What UPS To Buy As Fast As Possible
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- How should you pick the right UPS for your computer so you'll be prepared for a power outage?
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I'd love to see a revisit on this video, or an LTT video where you round up a bunch of the best ones on Amazon or something and put them to the test.
That's literally what I was searching for when I find this lol
Me too!
Yea I’ve seen a video of an older apc ups where they were showing that it’s using a crappy syn sine wave and didn’t explain why it’s bad other then it’s noisy.
I know of these guys went into it they have better presentation and be more knowledgeable
@@gjkrisa maybe we can bug then into it being one of the first videos out of the new testing lab they built.
@@DuelingDexperts I just watched one of Linus’s older videos that explains way better in about the same amount of time. And then the more in-depth video is a ncix tech video
Me: *starts ranked game*
Electricity: *a d i o s*
When I built my desktop I made sure to get a ups as a means of protecting it from sudden shut downs and surges. I got a APC 850 VA for around $90 on sale and that will run my desktop on idle (45 w) for an hour or under a heavy load, like a game, (~200 w) for 20 minutes. It also probably saved my PC from receiving a pretty powerful electrical surge that blew up an old surge protector plugged into the outlet by switching to batter power as soon as it sensed fluctuations in the voltage. That $90 investment might of saved my $1000 build that was less than 2 months old at the time.
Being a tech enthusiast site, a 'quick' video on UPS buying should include the critical piece of advice to make sure that if you are using a modern mid-high end power supply(pretty much ANY power supply with an 80+ rating of any kind), it will have Active PFC. This REQUIRES a power supply that can output a pure sinewave(or as close as a digital device is capable of delivering). Many low end models deliver stepped sinewave power which would be perfectly fine for charging your cell phone, but your computer will just plain not work. So when it switches to battery power, your computer will just instantly shut off. Make sure you buy a power supply that is stated as compatible with active PFC power supplies.
Sorry but I don't understand, too much use of 'power supply.' Could you clarify when you mean pc power supply vs ups
@@obiokeke9963 the ups
@@obiokeke9963 A little late but here we go:
PC power supply has Active PFC (whatever that means, I'm not gonna look it up right now)
If you have a power supply like that, you need a pure-sine UPS
Low end UPS's will have stepped output (or in the worst case I've seen square wave outputs before) and these will case the computer to cut out on battery power (rendering the UPS obsolete)
Get a UPS that is stated to be compatible with active PFC.
That awkward moment when you forget to plug your monitor into your UPS.
lol
lel
lel
lol
Lal
Couple of points that have been missed:
Some UPS have the system run through the battery the entire time, while others only switch over to battery when it senses a problem. In that case, you need to make sure the UPS is fast enough before the stored electricity in your computer drops and the comp turns off anyway.
Also, some UPS have phone and network pass through to protect you from surges through the phone/internet lines (lightning strikes). Many also have plugs that on the UPS that dont run through the battery. These are for surge protection only, but wont drain the battery in the event of a blackout. Good for running multi-monitor setups. Not to mention the idea behind smoothing out the line power itself for power that fluctuates, but doesn't necessarily create brown-outs that you can notice.
Less than 4 minutes of content and you missed so much.
That was my first thought as well. The most important characteristic of a ups is is working mode (offline (which replaces the line supply when it goes down), line interactive (a step up that will take over if the line is too bad), and on-line (which is always charging and powering the batteries at the same time for perfect power output at the cost of replacing the batteries after a few years)
online UPSs dont run on batteries the whole time. they convert the AC input current to DC, then back to AC again for your sensitive devices. when the input AC goes out, the internal DC power is instantly switched to the battery source and then converted to AC via the same circuitry that was powerwing the protected equipement prior to the power outage. the onlineupss have ZERO transfer time..
@@kiskiller3 not zero; negligible
@@haberdasherrykr8886 More accurately it happens so fast that even the shittiest of PSUes don't even "knows" about the outages/dips right?
@@kiskiller3thats called line interactive no?
i still don't know which one to buy
But you know how to buy one.
@@DesertCookie But he doesn't know which one to buy.
@@lethauntic APCs are quite good in my experiences, seems to be replaceable on anything better than the VERY low end models. Plus they even support Linux out of the box. :)
Ehh... this did not really teach people anything. I expected a little more detail, comparison, vendor tips, etc.
+Lex Sietses
Yeah, I was also expecting the waveform quality to be mentioned.
They make some extra videos just to put those advertisements in.. I would not mind the ads if the video was informative as you said. Most of us that search for videos like this don't know much or anything about UPS
It’s tech quickie, it’s quick tips most of the time
Make sure its pure sinewave and at LEAST a line interactive model, (ideally online). APC or Tripplite. dont touch anything else.. simple. haha.
Same. More like they bough like 50+ UPS
of various brands. all of the best possible type.
Like:
Brand A {model}{watt}}{type code}
then the best wattage of each model.
Then show what the best possible one is. for every possible setup.
Sadly i have not found any guide like this online.
You guys failed to mention that there are different types of UPS output such as quare wave or sine wave making them not compatible with all power supplies...
+ralmslb yeah, I really missed that but good thing they made half of the video a sponser spot.
+ralmslb square wave
+Mariyadas Joseph yeah I wrote this o my phone half sleeping lol
why would we need a true clean sine wave when every pc power supply in existance uses full bridge rectifier anyway to get pulse dc voltage as a first block in the chain so we get same shit in the end ?
A lot of power supplies nowadays, if not all, use/have Active PFC which doesnt go well with Square Wave UPS causing sudden power offs or the power supply not work at all. So yeah, it matters, you dont just send garbage power into it with a bit of magic dust to have a perfect output...
I would recommend a usp-s torque factory new.
lol
+XXXYOLOSWAGMLG-X-XXBUTTONWALLSXX-XXX( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)420YOLO69OPTICXXX4CHANXXXpRAISEN13GHT34GL3
0_0 That is the longest username I've ever seen.
+XXXYOLOSWAGMLG-X-XXBUTTONWALLSXX-XXX( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)420YOLO69OPTICXXX4CHANXXXpRAISEN13GHT34GL3 nah man caiman all the way
+XXXYOLOSWAGMLG-X-XXBUTTONWALLSXX-XXX( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)420YOLO69OPTICXXX4CHANXXXpRAISEN13GHT34GL3 dont forget stattrak
+MrArtexxx Why is that allowed...
Perfect video: 1) it was short & succinct, just what I needed; 2) it answered all of my questions; and 3) you placed the advertisement at the end, giving the viewers the option of stopping the video if the ad wasn’t of interest to them. THANK YOU for putting this video together in all the right ways.
I was looking for a ups surge protector today, and like magic you guys posted exactly what I was looking for and helped me make the right purchase. Thank you.
Thx, slick,... was just now jumpin on the UPS train since deciding to build a NAS, and this video was helpful with the immediate confusion I ran into when researched UPS's haha
My dad works for the regional electricity company, and used to have to deal with requests for reimbursement for people's chilled and frozen food when the power went out for a long time.
3 mins content, 2 mins ad?
It's clear when they switch to ads mode, they always use a horrible segway. Just go to whatever you want to watch next. Tough I agree, it would be nice to go a little deeper and do a 20 second ad at max, everyone knows Audible, Linda, Dollar-shave and all that stuff, and no one cares, or do they? Why are they keep making these ads?
because the need money to run the channel and many people use adblocker so this is their way just skip it it's not that hard
Alexander Raptakis who do you think pays for these videos?
Half minute content 3 and a half minutes jokes and 1 minute ads
as always techquickie saves me from reading on the internet.
VERY helpful years later. Thank you guys!
Thank you!! Not many tech channels talk about this very much. :)
You missed the part of needing a "Pure Sine Wave" UPS for Active PFC PSU's.
Finally someone... I had to scroll too far down
Explain, I’m new
Pure Sine Wave UPS are called 'On - Line Ups'
these provide purest and clearest forms of DC current to your pc components without any ups and downs in voltage
@@varunthapliyal8960 load-shedding is regularl in my area. I've heard offline ups contribute into destroying your pc. It is better to go ups less than using offline pc. Is it true?
@@varunthapliyal8960 There are line-interactive UPS models with pure sinewave output as well. I prefer them over online ones for personal use, as they only kick in when needed (voltage fluctuations & blackouts), which makes them run cooler, way more silent (either fanless, or fans kick in when battery is in use / high usage), and batteries themselves last much longer.
I discovered recently that some forms of Linux will display the battery level of a UPS connected via USB in the same way it would show battery life on a laptop, making it easy to see right from the desktop.
Works very well on APC units apparently. So useful!
And here is what they forgot to tell you: Cheaper UPS units do not produce a true sine wave AC power; instead they produce a square wave that mostly matches an AC sine wave. Some more expansive UPS units like Smart UPS from APC will produce true sine wave output. Why does this matter? Two reasons, if you thinking of nesting 2 cheap ups units by plugging one into the other to double battery life, that won't work; b/c second ups will reject the square wave from the first ups treating it as bad power. Also, running a square wave AC CAN DAMAGE your hi-fi audio gear, so if you paid $500+ for a fancy receiver and speakers, spend the $300 to get true sine wave UPS.
+Igor Petrusky
I was going to type this info up myself! A very embarrassing oversight IMO to not have mentioned the importance of understanding and purchasing an UPS to match your Active or passive power supply! Buy the wrong kind and you ruin the UPS within 6 months.
Something I want to add. If the devices connected to ups have ac/dc converters on them, most likely the squarewave ups will be ok, bc the acdc converters usually use bridge rectifier, which does not care about true sin wave. But for oldschool analog devices driven directly by ac a square wave can be a no-no.
Surprising relevant; I was just looking at buying a UPS. Good tips!
P=IV is only watts in DC... When you go to AC capacitive and inductive effects mean that load has a complex component as well. THAT is why UPSs are rated in VA. Typically It's the battery Ah rating multiplied by the RMS AC voltage.
In addition there are losses from the DC->AC inverter as well, meaning the output power rating in watts is less than the VA rating of the battery.
Ultimately what matters is 2 things. The size of the battery in Ah (determines how long it can keep your devices powered) and the max load of the Inverter in Watts (determines how much it can power simultaneously)
it's sort of odd to see people actually not know what a ups is since power cuts are so rare and you don't need them. where i live, power outages are not as rare (once a week in summer and once a month maybe in winter)but the probability of them happening is high enough that everyone who even considers building a desktop has to first ask what type of ups they should be getting
This is one of the reasons I use my laptop as a desktop replacement....it's a layer of protection a regular desktop doesn't have...I still use a UPS for other stuff on my desk though and have the laptop plugged into the surge protection side of the UPS
If your power supply supports PFC (Power Factor Correction), make sure the UPS supports it. For example, with CyberPower, the AVR UPS line is cheaper than the PFC, but it's not a good choice for my Corsair RM750x.
The tip about the food in your fridge is definitely a great point to make. It's one thing to expect normal power outages from anywhere from like a minute to an hour or two. But if your power outage lasts for multiple hours on end my suggestion would be to not open the fridge or at least not open it anymore than you have to in order to preserve coldness for as long as you can. It happened to me twice now where the power has been out for more than 16 hours and fridges all though they are insulated aren't designed to hold temperature for very long. Though there was a lot of food I could save, there's also a lot of food I had to throw out after the power came back on. I would definitely recommend a UPS and quite frankly I've actually bought one that cost me almost $8,000 but it covers what I consider "essential things." It'll keep my fridge running for an extra half hour(or an hour if that's all I have plugged in.) But I also have a lot of smaller ones around the house for my computer. And I actually have one that I paid about 800 bucks for just so I can use an LED lamp in the event that it ever happens again just so I have light. Off the grid with the LED light (and possibly my phone charging) for about three and a half to four hours. The other thing I did was buy a gas powered generator which of course is less useful for a PC but can be used to charged a UPS. IF ABSOLUTELY NEEDED. As well as a couple other things. I would recommend having power backup of one form or another that's adequate for your bare minimum needs. And I would consider bare minimum far below your everyday standard because in the event that you have to use it you're not going to be in normal circumstances.
That being said if you can afford gas and you have a place to put it it might be useful just to have a gas powered generator as well as a UPS that suits your needs. Because as long as you have gas and keep it maintain ed the gas generator can power anywhere from a couple to many different things. The diesel generator I have at my work can power about a block's worth of houses. Although It only powers the building that I work in because my building has such a high power usage. (Medical building with end of life care.) That's where I got the idea to have both the UPS and the gas powered generator. UPS for my computer and my fridge. But the fact that you can use the gas power generator to power the UPS actually works out really well. And theoretically as long as my IPS can maintain an internet connection then I can power my router and my computer or my phone off of either my UPS or my gas generator. just things to consider obviously if you have the money for one or both of them.If you're going for more of a survival type thinking I would consider the gas generator and buy gas. However if you're used to more like rolling blackouts (especially in large cities.) than I would suggest the UPS it'll give you enough time to save your stuff or even protect your stuff without you losing data or your progress like he said. Quite frankly if you have something like a desktop where you rely solely on wall power I would buy a UPS anyway just to protect it. I found them as cheap as 50 maybe 60 bucks. And It will work for most PCs long enough just to stop or save your work and shut down your computer properly.
You forgot to mention the part where some UPSs come with stuff like LCD monitors to display power in and output, manual key controls to make adjustments to get the best possible Sine wave and bunch of other connectors like, micro USB B, USB 2.0, optical connectors and most importantly, 'circuit breakers'.
Btw, I am just filling in the holes, I am not an expert or a critic and I love you guys. Awaiting new episodes and seasons of Scrapyard Wars.
You could say a UPS is a form of... defense against the dark arts.
Why did I write this.
+Charles Marcott Because internet
+TheGeekyGirl13 ! lol
+Charles Marcott ZING!
Ayyyyyyyy lmao
nonono dont stop
Keep in mind the efficiency of the PSU so if you have a 85% efficient power supply, you will have to factor in that 15% loss and add it to the UPS rating since it will be drawing 15% more than it can give out from the UPS.
@Techquickie Could you guys update this video for 2022 with a top 3 or 5 list. I’m moving soon to an area that loses power often. So I’d love to make the right choice when buying a UPS.
I've seen and worked with a lot of UPS units from cheap home ones to server room 3500VA models.
I don't care much for APC UPS because they have been known to just charge the batteries constantly and burn out the batteries.
So far the best UPS I have run across is the Eaton 5P 1000 model. From what I can tell it is a line interactive model.The only cons are it has a small fan, and I think retail is like $700-1000, if you want the LAN mgmt card I think that is like $150-200 more.
There are also 2 types of UPS the sine wave models (primarily older models). Or switchmode UPS which works like you PSU just in reverse. The boost transformer is small and driven by a high-frequency SMPS driver. Usually the switch mode UPS are lighter, but that can be hard to tell just from that because some like the 5P1000 have a large transformer for the line interactive part which throws that result off.
For those of us still trying to decide which UPS to buy, there are those that say APC are the best, others that say CyberPower are the worst or best, etc etc etc etc.... what a nightmare! Personally, I'm going to go with an APC, I particularly like the facility on some of their models which enable you to connect multiple UPS's together to get longer battery time.
i wish you would have covered inverter types as well as whether modified/simulated sine wave inverters have any problems with 80+ PF corrected power supplies
i live in a area with spotty power so buying a UPS was a must when i got my new computer
Thank you guys for this video
So what's a good recommendation for a 5830k + 980ti +raid + couple drive + 2monitor set up? Preferably with all the software saving options.
Thank you, very helpfull episode!
VA is not the same as Watts not because of resistance present in electrical load but because of reactance. Reactance
is almost always undesirable in load.
yes it is
+Shagas Heizenberg True. VA is the apparent power. In the power industry, people try to make VA equal to the real power by messing with banks of capacitors. The ratio between those two is called Power Factor. A good power factor is about 0.95 (maybe 0.93). Anything below that is a huge waste of power
So glad you made a video on this!
I wonder if they have in desktop tower UPS (PSU > UPS > Motherboard/components) because there are power losses from the battery charger going from ac to dc, then from the battery through the dc to ac inverter, and then again from the PSU when it converts the ac back to dc.
audible - build it beautiful
Squarespace is bringing DDR4 to the mainstream
PixelPickaxe With a variety of modular parts and accessories.
***** "Book accessories"
+Dexter Dickinson You Should ;)
You should
after the part that has to to do with the volt-amps and watt stuff (1:50) I'd've liked an example where you showed some quick math. I feel like that'd really help a lot.
Animiles 2+2=4-1=3
Quick Mafffs
S*S=P*P + Q*Q
Where
S [VA] is the apparent power
P [W] is the active power
Q [VAR] is the reactive power
also ϕ=atan2(Q/P)
and cos(ϕ) is the displacement factor (that's equal to the power factor in the linear case)
I just find this so much fun: 0:28, I could put it on loop and listen to it for an hour!😁
Great video as always!
In a Nushell. A PowerBank/Battery Pack but with a Wall Outlet and a Step Up/Down converter and a Power Management
IMO every computer should have a good UPS, especially if it is a workstation. The power cleaning alone will save you so much uncertainty with PSU's and Mobos and theoretically make them last longer.
The only tip I can provide is if your workload maxed out is 450 watts like mine is (on a 750 or 850w PSU) then you really do want a 1500 VA (865w effective) UPS. This will allow for multiple screens, speakers and quite a few peripherals to stay function for the 6 or so minutes that the battery can sustain at full power.
It's also a 2nd backup for RAID5 power loss so you're not depending entirely on the onboard battery backup. It's actually better because it's enough time to flush the ram to drive and have no worries about stripe corruption.
who else read the thumbnail and wondered what the hell "ups" are until they looked at the title and saw UPS? 😂
me
too
thanks
+Ali Adam i watched this vid solely to find out what it was
+Ali Adam -The title and the thumbnail appear to say the same thing.- *EDIT:* Oh, I think I see what you mean now. What up.
How often do i have to replace the UPS unit/battery? Every few years? Is it hard or expensive?
Waveform? I keep reading of certain power supplies needing UPSs that fully mimic outlet power for some reason. I have yet to have a PSU like that in the house. Still would have been nice to know if it is would be a good idea to buy that UPS type or not. As it seams to cost significantly more then the other model types.
"The Girl With All the Gifts" is a pretty awesome read. I have gotten to the action part and have to say it is just the kind of book that makes for great listening.
Doesn't do any good to have a decent UPS if the PC isn't set up right to take advantage of it. I am still not certain how to do that. I mostly just set the default Windows power features to force a shutdown while the battery still has a lot left in it. I am still remembering UPSs that would report a hour of run time to the computer and run out of power a minute after the power outage.
That thing about what wattage to shoot for will help. I tend to match them up and not go over.
this is always a must have piece of tech in my home for sure no joke
Not even a PEEP about SINE VS SQUARE UPSs?
Surprised there is no mention that power supplies with Active PFC require UPS's that output a pure sine wave.
Exactly. Pure sine wave UPSes are expensive.
Some UPS have the option of being powered and charge its batteries form solar panels. If your home have solar panels installed or you plan to dose you can use one of these with adequate capacity, and you may be able to pull part (all) of your home off grid, running (almost) entirely off solar power.
I had a UPS about 12 years ago whilst at University and I was gaming when the power tripped. My friend was writing a last minute Essay but lost his work. I was playing Half-Life all I didn't was walk to the electric box to switch the power back on. I would really recommend a ups.
I've got a 1500VA pure sine ups for my desktop, server, 2 monitors, printer, and modem. Can run all of them for about 45 minutes tops. Use to be longer but I think the batteries have gone capoopoo on me.
Awesome graphics...!! Nice Work on that background...!!!
CyberPower CP1350AVR or 1500VA AVR
FTW
These have saved my computer from both brownouts and regulated strange pulsing wire voltage that damaged my previous computers. It even logs the events. 2 years going so far.
I often hear that actual Pure Sine Wave (not simulated) is necessary for modern power supplies. Is this true?
+sircolby45 Yeah, I'm surprised this video didn't mention it at all. Some power supplies that emphasize power efficiency (especially 80 Plus certified ones) will depend on clean, consistent pure sine wave, instead of the approximate step kind. When I bought my UPS a few years ago, I was going to buy an APC brand unit that didn't have pure sine wave, and I found my PSU (Corsair TX650) has issues with non-PSW UPSes. I bought a CyberPower 1350PFCLCD instead and it's been fantastic. I even bought a second for my living room.
@@traviscombs6947 That's absurdly weird, even the cheapo non replaceable APC unit (it's was like 450VA or even less, rated for 255 max wattage) did just fine service for my Corsair 650 watts PSU and it is a bronze power supply.
Ltt should really do an updated video about UPS’s. one that includes brand names and compares quality.
I am more interested of modern options like lithium ion, graphene, etc. I am still wondering of the days of getting even Teslas on the cheap, surely there would be cheaper 1KW or larger UPSes?
LTT should review a few ups i would like to know how actuate the volt amp ratings are and how good the software is
+1berkut the v/a readings arent really accurate and alot of them have crappy software... sadly...
@@kiskiller3 APC units will let you just hook up the "monitoring" USB even to Linux. Shows battery life, time and even let me have the option to shut her down should the battery runs on empty.
No need to use their shit software.
UPS attached to UPS attached to UPS attached to UPS, attach multiple UPSes at once longest power method so when the power goes out you have longer time to use the UPS
I have a question: we have our own central heating in the home and there's a device with its battery (like the big one in cars) that keeps the heating pump working in case of power outage (otherwise the heating boiler would literally explode).
Can I plug my PC into that device? The device is only used during the winter so this will give me enough time to save for a more expensive UPS.
I made a simple UPS using a pack of 18650 batteries which was the same size as a normal UPS (which uses a lead acid battery) but could keep my PC running for hours instead of minutes.
This is weirdly fitting. My mains power seemed to die a couple times - came back on immediately - just earlier tonight.
+Phantasmal Wordsmith that sucks, where i live we have a rather stable power supply, albeit we have overhead service and there's a ton of trees so a tree can easily knock out power, but even then it's just for an hour or 2, the last blackout we had was during a windstorm, it wasn't a tree falling, but a short somewhere in the grid caused a transformer to overheat, it's safety mechanism's failed, and next thing ya know there's a substation fire, took them a few minutes to cut the power though, it was a good few hours until they had the power re-routed and it was back on.
UPS i've had since 2008 just died, super sad - time to start shopping for a new one.
i remember i had 3 blackouts out of no where in a row
managed to malfunction my motherboard and force me to seek salvaged parts to make the PC work again
so it can be useful depending on financial situation and how much you care about your devices
Great video as always
i'm skeptical about volt amps, the difference between VA and Watts is the cos phi, the image of dephasing between voltage and current consumption, also named power factor(if the load is purely resistive your cos phi will be 1, if its inductive or capacitive, it will go down, and its not good at all) all modern power power supplies have a PFC corrector, which mean your cosphi is almost at 1, and, in this scenario, VA=W
Have an APC Smart-UPS 1500 that backs up the I-5 Desktop Computer, 1080P Monitor, Dell 24-Port Switch and the CenturyLink ADSL Modm. This keeps me up and running when the lights flicker and the clocks need to be reset ! And if the outage lasts a few minutes I will have time to shut down ! tjl
Its measured in VA because it stands for apparent power and is all the power a battery can deliver. P stands for actual power, this is the power that is used to perform actual work. The difference between these two is caused by the fact the voltage not being in phase with the current this is caused by capacitive or inductive loads (not restive), the cosine of the angle between the voltage and current is called the power factor. P is calculated by voltage times amps times the powerfactor while S is calculated by voltage times amps. Therefore depending on the type of load the actual power to a device can be very different than the apparent power being used.
How about doing a bios update. Which would be recommended for a ups? I’m not trying to spend $200 unless it’s necessary don’t really care if my work gets loss but if my motherboard breaks then that’s a big ass deal
I want to be able to run a presentation online for work without worry of a power blackout/brownout
Say I have a standard 120V household power line, and want to run my PC for 10 minutes. The PSU is 600w, monitor about 60 W and I want to keep my modem running. The PSU is sized mainly for my GPU. Also, what must stay running is my wireless headphones and my Scarlett 212 and Rode podmic. The PC I would imagine would be running on minimum power for running Powerpoint, Zoom and a few other apps.
What is the VA/W that I would need for a UPS? Thank you in advance
What about pure vs. simulated sine wave ups units?
Simply: pure is better.
RS-232 is more common than USB for most of the higher end ones as pin testing is easier to work with. As serial ports are no longer common. SIIG which makes PCIe x1 to external serial port 1 and 2 port external port cards.Likes RS-232 being used. I do not see this going away soon either.
For end users it is hard as usb is on basically everything now but most end-users don't use UPS units until their power is cut for a long time very often.
This was a poorly covered video. First the image of power surges, and talking about UPS is not a very good thing. If you plug in a power surge protector into a UPS you can severly damage your equipment. Look it up.
Next you have covered Sinewaves before, but if you are giving a "What to buy UPS" then it's critical to mention the sinewaves...
But what if I plug my ups into my surge protector?
4:00 "Audio books are great to listen to when you're sitting on the subway, sitting on the train, sitting on the bus, sitting on the uhhhh..."
...toilet?
... dildo?
@@thearousedeunuch lmao
so if my pc uses a maximum of 470w, i have a 650w psu, how many va should i get?
also true sine wave for active pfc power supplies
I remember a few years ago before I got my PC I was playing a game on my Xbox 360 about to shoot at someone as the game was Just Cause 2 and then the power went out.
do I need one for a 400W APU PC? The power in my area is reliable but they sometimes disconnect power for late payments.
Ah, the one piece of tech that my setup needs that I don't have yet, the backup power supply. Most recently, before I built my current setup, we had a very temporary (>30min) blackout at around eleven PM and that shut down my PC. It had to do some odd startup sequence and restart during this multiple times for the computer itself to actually start up again, and a UPS would've allowed me to save and shut down my computer before I actually did something or, even, kept it running through the whole blackout so I wouldn't have a problem. Still, saving up for one is problematic... wanting to get into the PC-building arena isn't exactly cheap... and neither are apartments, come to think of it...
Surprised (and a little disappointed) that you didn't discuss the importance of "square sine", "simulated sine", and "pure sine" UPSes and what sort of equipment needs what quality of power.
Rule of thumb: Square sine should only be used for the most non-sensitive electronics. It's a very low-quality power that can damage whatever is connected to it. "Simulated Sine" should be used for computers, monitors, and LED, halogen, or fluorescent light bulbs. "Pure Sine" is for very sensitive equipment, such as speakers or audio interfaces, that absolutely need as close to real AC power as you can get it.
+Ben Hall Also there's the auto-engaged Diesel generator option, for the @3:31 4K gaming :-P
Should it be "which" USP to buy?
I was playing Wow when you made the reference ^^ made me smirk
When I read the headline I thought this was gonna be about the different types of inverters the UPS could have and how they can mess with you PSU.
Anyway, good vid for starters in the UPS world n.n
So how do I calculate the amount of power that I have uses? As you can tell, I'm just an end-user! I have a modem, monitor, signal booster (for cell), the main computer (desktop with be quiet! SYSTEM POWER U9 500W BRONZE), and cordless phone base. I have a UPS APC-ES750 and replacement batteries never get past 8 months before I need a new one.
I got a cheap UPS that I keep my PC on, its not enough for my PC, but with how much our electric flickers here randomly, it keeps my PC from shutting down during them moments. Electric here sucks.
my APC UPS rates in watts, says max load is 865W with my desktop a 4790k/770/6drives/2monitor it gives me usually a estimated run time of 45minutes ,, been pretty dang good so far, i live in an area with tons black outs sometimes multiple in a day and alot of energy spikes, my apc has gotten through i'd say about 50 outages without a single issue
what model is it? been looking for something that lasts more than 15 minutes with those wattage
Rj Lao BR1500G+ but note my computer doesn't use even half its max watt at full use
I was hoping the video would go into some detail on choices or different brands and types of UPS to buy but nope. Just buy the most expensive one out there right TechQuickie?
PS - Government liquidation auctions are the best place to buy older high-end UPS (especially in bulk!) Just buy aftermarket batteries and you got yourself one hell of a backup.
Tech Quickie is just to explain it not to review or recommend.
they did forgot to talk about on-line UPS and its difference with line interactive ones, as well as their compatibility with the PSUs, based on the waveform they produce
I'm considering one for home theater given that power conditioners coat almost as much. I need 3,000 watts of clean power for a 7.2.4 set up.
Hello😊 what kind of UPS would you recommend for PS4 Slim and pro?
I have i7-4790K and use Line interactive UPS 600 watts capacity, which is only connected to PC. While a second setup i use is 900 watts inverters with modified sine wave current with 200 amps storage acid battery and i also use AVR with it, it is connected to whole system, monitor, pc, printer etc. I also have another big stablizer incase electricity start fluctuating too much.
Entire backup system costed me about, 400+ dollars.
Not bad
kevindt12 lolz, reason i commented if anyone wanted to know how to get proper off grid backup that lasts for hours.
AD KN I live in africa power cuts 4 - 6 times a week for long the normal setup here is 1500VA inverter with 9 x 12V 200AH barttery some people have here even way more VA inverters
I had pretty much same in first time. I used 200 amps battery with 900 watts inverter, also added AVR which gives pure sinewave current. But as soon as electricity goes out in rain, or heavy fluctuation, my PC got restarted. So i added another Line interactive UPS. Now it works fine.
AD KN Cool
I know about the data saving, but what about damage to the parts? electricity here goes out a lot, will getting shutdown and spiked ruin my pc?
A UPS's voltage regulator will allow you to use old school or inexpensive generators. I used to work at a company that made UPS for mainframes and entire buildings. Best investment to protect electronics. Only big downside is the batteries need to be replaced every 2 to 4 years depending on the unit.
Would also recommend you guys mention Pure Sine vs Simulated Sine waves. From what I understand simulated sine UPS's are cheaper but may harm components such as screen back lights. Great weekly vids guys!
Se7enQuickie: In 27 years of using and building computers, I have NEVER lost data due to a power outage! ... And I have NEVER felt the need for a UPS! ... In the UK, our power grid is extremely reliable, and our AC outlets are far superior to your God awful US electrics! ... If one uses a laptop, a UPS isn't necessary, as the machine switches to battery in an outage ... The most important thing to remember, is SAVE, SAVE, SAVE! ... Glad I could help! 👍🤣
loved this happened 2 nights ago in Bucharest i hate outages as i have expensive computer and other devices :(
Do I need to worry about any of this if I have a 4yo laptop with an extra monitor and speakers attached, all on 3 separate plugs?
The worst case I can think of is that I lose the second monitor and Windows 7 falls back to the laptop screen and I have no sound.
Buying a UPS has honestly been the single best purchase for my computer system I've ever made. Hands down.
Why? did it cut in on a power outage? Or is it the peace of mind it give you?
So if my computer will realistically use about 450 watts but i use a 650 power supply, should I calculate for that? I ask because when I add all the max (number stated on labels) wattage for the electronics sharing a power-strip/desk it's about 1300 watts. and that would mean I'd need a Pure Sine UPS with at least 2000VA which doesn't look too common/affordable online. A lot of them go for over $1000, fml.