Removing the Anodized Finish From an Antique 1950s French Centaure Pacific Fishing Reel

Removing the Anodized Finish From an Antique 1950s French Centaure Pacific Fishing Reel
So ...this is definitely an anodized finish on the Centaure reel according o some of the manufacture's ads I was able to find researching it. Removing an anodized finish can be a bit tricky because anodizing creates a hard, durable coating on the surface of metals like aluminum. I decided to use a rotary tool to remove it. Basically, with a rotary tool and the right grinding, sanding, and polishing tips, you can remove the anodized layer manually. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper or grinding wheel to remove the bulk of the coating, then switch to finer grits to smooth out the surface. This method requires patience and may not be suitable for many intricate or delicate surfaces, this process took just over 4 hours in a span of 4 days to complete, so persistence is a must. However, there are a number of other options you can consider:
Using a chemical stripping agent specifically designed for removing anodized finishes is another option. These products are available at hardware or automotive stores. One option is caustic soda. It is a strong alkaline chemical that can dissolve anodized coatings. Caustic soda is highly caustic and can cause burns, so proper safety precautions, including gloves and eye protection, are essential when handling it. Another option are sodium hydroxide-based strippers. These products typically contain sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient along with other additives to enhance effectiveness and safety. They are available in liquid or gel form and can be applied using brushes or rollers.
Phosphoric acid is another chemical that can effectively dissolve anodized coatings. It's less aggressive than caustic soda but still requires careful handling due to its acidic nature. Hydrochloric Acid (Muriatic Acid) is a strong acid that can be used to remove anodized finishes, but it's not commonly recommended due to its corrosive nature and potential health hazards. If used, extreme caution must be exercised, and proper protective gear must be worn.
Citric acid is a milder option , it's less aggressive but still effective for removing anodized coatings. Citric acid-based strippers are generally safer to use and are available commercially. I have tested removing anodized finished with Citristrip on other reels, but it wasn't as effective. It's a great product, but not for these vintage anodized finishes.
⚠️ When using any chemical stripping agent, it's crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, work in a well-ventilated area, wear appropriate protective gear, and dispose of any waste materials according to local regulations. Additionally, always test the stripper on a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure compatibility with the metal substrate. ⚠️
Electrolysis can also be used to remove anodized coatings. This method involves immersing the metal object in an electrolyte solution and passing an electric current through it to break down the anodized layer. However, it requires some knowledge of electrochemistry and careful control of the process to prevent damage to the metal.
Of course, if you're not confident in your ability to remove the anodized finish yourself, consider seeking professional help. Sandblasting is a possible alternative, it involves using abrasive materials propelled at high pressure to remove surface coatings. This method is effective but requires specialized equipment and should be done by professionals to avoid damage to the underlying metal. You could look around for local shops that do sandblasting and they will sometimes help out with a smaller piece at a fair price. Metal fabrication shops or companies specializing in surface finishing may offer services for stripping anodized coatings--it's also easier to order fish at a restaurant, but where's the fun in that?!?! 🤣 🤣 🤣
Remember, before attempting any method, it's essential to consider the material and condition of the metal, as well as any safety precautions necessary for the chosen method. Always test any removal method on a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn't damage the metal underneath. Thanks for watching. Hope this has helped, be sure to check out the step by step videos I will be adding this week, feel free to ask any questions-Always wishing you the best! 1💙
The tools I used for this restoration can be found here:
Precision screwdriver set I used (although it appears the color has changed): amzn.to/3UBvy2e or see other options here: amzn.to/3SK4JXb
Flitz: amzn.to/3x6CUAT
Rotary Tool Kit (This one is a great, inexpensive option): amzn.to/3voHUjT
Abrasive Wheels for Rotary Tool: amzn.to/3IKyq5u
Polishing Tips for Rotary Tool: amzn.to/3IGlJsD
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#Centaure #antiques #fishing #angler #fishingreelrepair

[@thepenultimateninja5797]

I saw from the description that you are aware that anodizing can be stripped with sodium hydroxide, so I'm surprised you went with mechanical removal instead.
Sodium hydroxide would have stripped the finish in a minute or two, even in all the little nooks and crannies, while barely affecting the underlying aluminum.

[@awhaletale]

Thank you for watching. You are 100% correct. The chemical removal would have been much easier and quicker. The reason I chose this route was because the reel with its age had lots of scrapes, nicks, and scratches, as well as many imperfections from mold that I figured would show if I didn't take it to a smooth finish by buffing when I gave it the final polish. By sanding the whole reel with the buffing discs as was able to see as went along how smooth it was becoming due to color difference between the sanded parts and anodized. But again, you are right. If it were a cleaner reel, your method would have been the way to go. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. 👍 Best Wishes

[@thepenultimateninja5797]

@@awhaletale Ah I see, that makes sense.

[@awhaletale]

👍 Thanks again for the info. I appreciate it, Best Wishes

[@raymondthompson1476]

Hi again. Centaures are beautiful reels, and according to some old advertising sheets I've seen on line, they were also available bail-less. I've not seen one, not a real one anyway, but what do you think a bail-less conversion would turn out like? I'm asking because I do love occasionally fishing my vintage reels, but am a bail-less convert and there's no going back now. Raymondo.
Ps. I also like the Spanish 'Sagarra' reels. Do you know of them?

[@awhaletale]

The Centaurs have an amazing shape. I agree, they look awesome and they remind me of the Van Staal. I had no idea they made them bail-less. I have only seen them in half-bail. I think a conversion would look and function great. The Luxor I am working on now was missing the bail, it had been cut off and sealed, so I will be making that bail-less. Most of my reels now are either half-bail or bail-less. I started fishing with yoyos when I was a kid and they remind me of that style of fishing where you have more control of the line. I missed a Sagarra in an auction once, they are really nice-- I do have a bail-less AMSA Super Casting Spanish reel I have not been able to find any information on, but it is in beautiful shape, one of my favorites, and I probably won't be refinishing that one, but I will share it when I take it out fishing. As far as converting, I always think you should do things the way you like them, if it works for you, go for it--it's all that matters. Thanks again, Best Wishes!