I watched this years ago and here I am years later re-watching for my aging cameras I have mucked with incrementally over the years to the point I am missing shots I used to routinely hit. Pete's channel should be bookmarked by anyone who depends on or just really interested in sports shooting. The "Remote Use" series is a MUST watch!
Finally, someone willing to share their settings with all of us newbies! You answered so many of my questions with just a quick review of your settings. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Hi Peter. Excellent info. The Mark II does have GPS and it is great to have on if you have 2 bodies as you can set the time and date to GPS and don't have to worry about synching time and dates again between bodies. Also the AWB has the normal and a "White" priority setting (AWB W) which is great for indoor work especially when used in conjunction with anti flicker - it delivers a very consistent wb from image to image.
I really liked this video and basically changed to your settings on my new-to-me 1DX Mark II. There were a couple of minor things that I've done differently. One was changing the ISO from 1/3 of a stop to a full stop. I can just get to a new ISO more quickly if I don't have to wade through all of those extra thirds. The other, and similar in some ways, is under Custom Function 3/3 Restrict Shooting Modes. I turn off P, Tv, and C1, C2, C3. I don't use them and I don't want to cycle through unneeded modes. I used to just have Av and M enabled but find that I do cable release stuff (Bulb) often enough that I want to have it available without having to search menus to figure out how to do it! Personal preference no doubt.
In camera Multiple exposure when you can do 100X better job of it in post is.... silly? I guess I'm a photoshop guy and assume everyone else is, but I can't grasp why you would do this in camera except to tell people about it.
This was great! Things like the focus options have become so complex that it is difficult to know where to start. I would like to see a little more breakdown of settings for day/night/indoor sports.
Anti flicker is also very usefull for incorrectly / cheaply installed LEDs. When dimmed, this wrong method doesn't dim, but periodically switches off the lights. Too quick to see by eye. You basically describes how it works. You mention there is a slight delay. The sensor (well, the software behind it) notices the pattern and fires the shutter on the brightest moment.
Thanks Peter. This is really helpful information. I have most of these settings, but there are a few that I am looking forward to seeing how they change image capture for myself.
I have a Question for you, I have a Canon Rebel t7i and also a Canon 90d and I love both Cameras, and I'm using Tamron Lens. Canon makes some Great Lenses , but they Cost so much and I'm using Tamron Lenses 18-400mm & 150-600mm SP Lens & 100-400mm and a few others. I'm into Airshows and Birds and landscape and sometimes Flowers cause of My Wife, But I want to ask You with the New Canon r10, will My Lenses off of My 90d will they Work on the Canon r10 and if Not is there an Adapter that I'II be able to Use on the Canon r10 for My Lenses, or do I have to buy different One's??
Great Information Peter, Thank you... Like to see you dive into the AF system some WRT various sports and what "cases" works better then the others. I know its allot about personal preference but fine turning those cases could help out. Thank you again, looking forward to the next video.. John S
WHEN BACK BUTTON IS NOT USEFUL. While pressing back button Auto Focus you can't select another focus point. Let's say you're shooting and decide to move the focus point on a bird that's just to right of center but you have set the focus at center af point. Now if you try to press the a.f. selection button its impossible. But if you have the top main dial set as a.f. half press all you need do is hit the a.f. selection button and move your point to the desired new position. Also you shouldnt use it for dedicated flight photography. Because you will be continuously focusing when shooting birds in flight, it will be more comfortable for your hands to half press the shutter button for focus and fully press to release the shutter, rather than having to hold two buttons at once. I don't use back button focus. I prefer to use back buttons for AF-OFF,ONE SHOT/AI-SERVO,REGISTER RECALL FUNCTION. Also with pro bodies you can register your preferred af point selection so you can switch between say a single point to a focus point cluster. Just by holding or tapping a rear button. A.F.points for Birds in flight: The rule of thumb for birds in flight is that the busier the background, the less focus points you use. If you are a beginner or casual bird photographer, you should select the configuration which has a central focus with about eight surrounding AF points (roughly square-shaped) for birds in flight with busy backgrounds. As you get better, you may want to cut back on the number of surrounding points. Conversely, if you have a plain background behind the action, make sure you have all AF points selected. This maximises your chance of acquiring focus and is especially great with erratic moving birds.
The important issue to remember on the 'flicker setting" is that by enabling it, the camera will pause to shoot until it senses the peak lighting cycle. Problem is that when you have a hundred stadium lights flickering unsyncronously, the camera can get really confused, and you will miss a key shot while the camera awaits the perfect moment. I always leave this OFF as I want to ensure I do not miss a shot in my burst mode. Peter, you should know how this technology works.
I can translate grumpy old man, (I am one) and here he really means he does not use it. I like having GPS on my photos but don't like the batteries draining on the camera. Canon is odd in that GPS set to ON means GPS is running even when the camera is switched off and I think many pros just don't want that.
Peter Miller thanks! I followed this step by step, and there were similar functions. Can't wait to try this out at a college hockey practice Wednesday night! Only thing I wish I had was a 70-200 f 2.8 I only have the f/4 zoom that is $599
@@h3nriqu33 I’m just getting back into it, been working high school football games the last month. Feel free to dm me on Instagram if you’d like to talk. My Instagram is alexwalworthphotography
Peter, you should use your intro "splash" video at the start of the video and not after you've started to talk. I think you'll get more viewers and people who watch to the end that way.
I watched this years ago and here I am years later re-watching for my aging cameras I have mucked with incrementally over the years to the point I am missing shots I used to routinely hit. Pete's channel should be bookmarked by anyone who depends on or just really interested in sports shooting. The "Remote Use" series is a MUST watch!
Finally, someone willing to share their settings with all of us newbies! You answered so many of my questions with just a quick review of your settings. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Hmm how about just practice and find setting that work the best
Hi Peter. Excellent info. The Mark II does have GPS and it is great to have on if you have 2 bodies as you can set the time and date to GPS and don't have to worry about synching time and dates again between bodies. Also the AWB has the normal and a "White" priority setting (AWB W) which is great for indoor work especially when used in conjunction with anti flicker - it delivers a very consistent wb from image to image.
I really liked this video and basically changed to your settings on my new-to-me 1DX Mark II. There were a couple of minor things that I've done differently. One was changing the ISO from 1/3 of a stop to a full stop. I can just get to a new ISO more quickly if I don't have to wade through all of those extra thirds. The other, and similar in some ways, is under Custom Function 3/3 Restrict Shooting Modes. I turn off P, Tv, and C1, C2, C3. I don't use them and I don't want to cycle through unneeded modes. I used to just have Av and M enabled but find that I do cable release stuff (Bulb) often enough that I want to have it available without having to search menus to figure out how to do it! Personal preference no doubt.
Great UA-cam Channel. Perfect way to spend my day listening as I work from home during these difficult times
Yes, a whole episode on multiple exposures would be very much appreciated.
I'll be happy to do that when I figure it out myself. Don't wait up. Really I think you just have to go by trail and error-and luck.
In camera Multiple exposure when you can do 100X better job of it in post is.... silly? I guess I'm a photoshop guy and assume everyone else is, but I can't grasp why you would do this in camera except to tell people about it.
This was great! Things like the focus options have become so complex that it is difficult to know where to start. I would like to see a little more breakdown of settings for day/night/indoor sports.
This is a great video on Night sports: ua-cam.com/video/drW3TwtItwA/v-deo.html but I'd love to hear from peter on this as well.
Very Helpful! Glad to know so many of those menu funtions don't really need to be messed with.
Great advice. Upgraded from 5d mark4 to 1dx mark 2. Very helpful. Many thanks
Anti flicker is also very usefull for incorrectly / cheaply installed LEDs. When dimmed, this wrong method doesn't dim, but periodically switches off the lights. Too quick to see by eye.
You basically describes how it works. You mention there is a slight delay. The sensor (well, the software behind it) notices the pattern and fires the shutter on the brightest moment.
Thank you for sharing your experience. Subscribed.
Loved this, now I know what all this is for!! GREAT!!!!
Thank you Peter. Very helpful.
Very helpful just subscribed! 😀
Very useful. Thanks Peter.
All these videos are amazing. Thank you PRM for sharing!
Thanks Peter. This is really helpful information. I have most of these settings, but there are a few that I am looking forward to seeing how they change image capture for myself.
Hi Mr.Miller: This really helped me out with the settings. Thank You so much.
What an excellent and informative video from a pro! I’m gonna subscribe thank you! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟👍🏽
I have a Question for you, I have a Canon Rebel t7i and also a Canon 90d and I love both Cameras, and I'm using Tamron Lens. Canon makes some Great Lenses , but they Cost so much and I'm using Tamron Lenses 18-400mm & 150-600mm SP Lens & 100-400mm and a few others. I'm into Airshows and Birds and landscape and sometimes Flowers cause of My Wife, But I want to ask You with the New Canon r10, will My Lenses off of My 90d will they Work on the Canon r10 and if Not is there an Adapter that I'II be able to Use on the Canon r10 for My Lenses, or do I have to buy different One's??
Great Information Peter, Thank you... Like to see you dive into the AF system some WRT various sports and what "cases" works better then the others. I know its allot about personal preference but fine turning those cases could help out. Thank you again, looking forward to the next video.. John S
WHEN BACK BUTTON IS NOT USEFUL.
While pressing back button Auto Focus you can't select another focus point. Let's say you're shooting and decide to move the focus point on a bird that's just to right of center but you have set the focus at center af point. Now if you try to press the a.f. selection button its impossible.
But if you have the top main dial set as a.f. half press all you need do is hit the a.f. selection button and move your point to the desired new position.
Also you shouldnt use it for dedicated flight photography. Because you will be continuously focusing when shooting birds in flight, it will be more comfortable for your hands to half press the shutter button for focus and fully press to release the shutter, rather than having to hold two buttons at once.
I don't use back button focus. I prefer to use back buttons for AF-OFF,ONE SHOT/AI-SERVO,REGISTER RECALL FUNCTION. Also with pro bodies you can register your preferred af point selection so you can switch between say a single point to a focus point cluster. Just by holding or tapping a rear button.
A.F.points for Birds in flight:
The rule of thumb for birds in flight is that the busier the background, the less focus points you use.
If you are a beginner or casual bird photographer, you should select the configuration which has a central focus with about eight surrounding AF points (roughly square-shaped) for birds in flight with busy backgrounds. As you get better, you may want to cut back on the number of surrounding points.
Conversely, if you have a plain background behind the action, make sure you have all AF points selected. This maximises your chance of acquiring focus and is especially great with erratic moving birds.
Such a great video-thank you so much!!!
I used your settings on my Canon 7d mark2 with a 100-400 L lense, i got the best photo's l have ever taken, Thank you so much, Appreciated here.
Did you ever make a review on the Canon 1DX (Mark I)?
Good job!
Great video. Can you tell more about back button focusing? Are you using it always when you shoot sport?
Always. While I am happy to let the camera focus for me, I want to control when is is doing it.
The important issue to remember on the 'flicker setting" is that by enabling it, the camera will pause to shoot until it senses the peak lighting cycle. Problem is that when you have a hundred stadium lights flickering unsyncronously, the camera can get really confused, and you will miss a key shot while the camera awaits the perfect moment. I always leave this OFF as I want to ensure I do not miss a shot in my burst mode. Peter, you should know how this technology works.
Great point dear friend!
Wow all this tech , makes one wonder how we got it done using film , manual focus lens and very limited iso . But we got it done
@@scallen3841 far less people "got it done". This tech reallybenables many more poeple (like the ones who don't read manuals ;-) ) to get good shots.
Hi! What aspect ratio do you shoot in for basketball, football and swimming?
Why not use the entire sensor? Raw does this anyway.
16:00 The camera has built in GPS Peter.
Tho I wish Canon has included WIFI not GPS.
I can translate grumpy old man, (I am one) and here he really means he does not use it. I like having GPS on my photos but don't like the batteries draining on the camera. Canon is odd in that GPS set to ON means GPS is running even when the camera is switched off and I think many pros just don't want that.
daveao686 have u checked out the Case Air tether?? $159 & let’s u control everything from ur phone & upload to as well!
Just what the doctor ordered....thanks
Yes it has GPS
Thank you
very interesting, thank you !
I have a Canon rebel t5i, can this somewhat apply to that?
I've actually never used a t5i, but looking at one on YT, it seems to have similar menus-with different options of course.
Peter Miller thanks! I followed this step by step, and there were similar functions. Can't wait to try this out at a college hockey practice Wednesday night! Only thing I wish I had was a 70-200 f 2.8 I only have the f/4 zoom that is $599
@@alexwalworthphotography8243 did u shoot a lot throughout this year ? im gonna try shoot soccer for the first time, im kinda nervous
@@h3nriqu33 I’m just getting back into it, been working high school football games the last month. Feel free to dm me on Instagram if you’d like to talk. My Instagram is alexwalworthphotography
Nice
Peter, you should use your intro "splash" video at the start of the video and not after you've started to talk. I think you'll get more viewers and people who watch to the end that way.
with other words: Stay away if you deal with real world moving 'things'