Rear Brake Shoe and Wheel Cylinder Replacement Ford Focus 1999-2005
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- Опубліковано 9 гру 2013
- How to replace the rear brake shoes and a leaky wheel cylinder on a 1999-2005 Ford Focus. You must torque the drum bearing to 170 foot pounds of torque which is not shown in this video. -- Please use needle noise vise grips instead of side cutters on the brake springs. --
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*Disclaimer: Please use all safety precautions - Авто та транспорт
Very nice and clear video.
I want to bring back up the importance of torquing the Main bearing nut to 173 foot pounds while it is being spun by hand in the counter-clockwise direction. (The torque spec was commented on so long ago, I am concerned people will not find it now. My Ford Focus is 2003.
I had a very annoying noise on the passenger side as result of someone else doing this job and apparently not knowing about the importance turning the drum in the counter-clockwise direction while getting to the full torque value. This bearing is a double-roller-style bearing.
If you do not spin it while torquing down, what ends up happening is you drive these bearings of the rollers into the race and that causes a brinelling condition, which results in a noisy bearing. See UA-cam "Rear Drum and Bearing Replacement 2000-2008 Ford Focus".
Your previous comment reply 6 years ago was:
2CarPros
6 years ago
Yes, you are correct the rear axle nut does need to be torqued to 235 NM = 173.3 ft-lbs.
In the UK we would put a plastic tube over the brake nipple and put it into a plastic bottle to catch the break fluid as we bleed the brake lines. Dangerous stuff to have running all over the place, and you can also get a cheap kit that allows you to do the job on your own. Just keep a good eye on the level in the fluid reservoir as it is very easy to be pumping away at the pedal and emptying the reservoir
A
Hi there, if you are interesting I have brake pipes for this model.
Thanks for the guide. Came in handy in helping me replace the rear brake shoes and wheel cylinders on a 1997 Ford Contour, same exact system. Brakes are awesome again!
Thanks for watching!
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Thanks so much, you really help me out!
This video really helped me out, great work explaining everything up close.
Thanks for your support and kind words. Please like us on Facebook and Subscribe here on UA-cam. Thank you again for watching.
Thanks a lot. For the display. It will help me to carry on my mechanical engineering practicals.
Thanks for watching!
We don't need more stupid engineering like, that you need STFU.
Good video - thank you. It should be noted that the lower spring was put back on the opposite way it was on originally. Look at 2:32 vs at 7:33.
Paul
Thank you for making this "simple "
Thanks for watching!
Good quality production. It answer a question that was unique to me.
The factory service manual says: The wheel hub retaining nut can be re-used four times, mark the wheel hub retaining nut. First, tighten hub nut to 26lbs. then, rotate the brake drum 10 times in the opposite direction while tightening the wheel hub retaining nut to 173lbs. To prevent damage to the bearing.
I don't think it says lbs, either it says ft-lbs or Nm (where I'm used to the latter, I just get confused by all those imperial measures). Why do US still use them?
In the table I've found it says 95 ft-lbs.
However, I haven't been able to find the service manual on the web (and I do not believe in paywalls and artificial scarcity) but your advice sounds great anyway, and generic, it would be applicable to any car with this type of drum/bearings.
I have fixed this on many cars throughout the life but the Ford Focus is just insane. I spend 3 hours per cylinder to unmount them, I had to cut the bolts, couldn't be unscrewed in any way.
www.discounttiredirect.com/learn/wheel-torque#ford
Best tutorial i found to fix my brakes
Thanks for watching!
I like your method of plugging/capping the brake line with the rubber cap to minimize how much brake fluid that you will spill.
This minimizes the mess, and lets you take your time with the repair versus having to worry about draining out all the brake fluid as you work on the repair. (or make another trip to the parts store...etc.)
I purchased a variety of these in the vacuum line section of my local auto parts store. They had a variety of sizes for very cheap.
Thanks for the tip.
almost 10 years later and this video is still helpful great work!
Thank you. Back on the road.
Awesome! Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video!
Well done video. I have been planning to change brake fluid and this is the only video I could find that showed where the bleeder screw was on the rear brakes. Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
How come you're not starting the bleeding process from the furthest wheel from the master cylinder?
Videos like this make me so jealous... I hate working on junk in the rust belt😊
If drum hard to remove , leave wheel loosely on with only 2 nuts and use wheel as a sort-of slide hammer. Lets you apply huge amount of force to get drum off vs prying on drum from behind. However if shoe is broken inside like mine was you WILL need to use a giant slide hammer to get drum off. Ask me how I know : )
Great idea using the side-cutters, thanks!
No problem ! Thanks for the comment, please subscribe if you have not already.
Got to love the sarcasm👍🏻!
Why side cutters I dont get it why not needle nose pliers id be worries squeeze too hard you'll cut through idk just wondering
Well i think that all looks easy enough. Im going to give it a blast.
nice job thanks 4 the video man just helping me
Thank you so much for watching!
Very practic and helpful
good job. thank you for posting this
You have a good cleaning solution for the brake pads
good video very informative.
Thank you for watching!
Factory says to remove the four bolts holding the spindle on, rather than removing the center cap. Using a chisel may damage the cap.
Good video overall - main nut for rear drum needs to be torqued to 175 ft lb.s approx - over tighten will burn out bearing - under torquing will also cause major issues - you fail to mention this and its a pretty important bit of info :(
They also failed to say that nut needs to be replaced each time. and it's not a big deal but the correct torque is 173 ft-lbs. it's a stupid design but you can thank the brain dead engineers for that.
Brilliant. Reset auto-adjusters. Just what we needed. Thanks.
Great to hear!
Very nice video bro☺
Good videos
Does not tell us socket size , WOW.
Right fr wtf lol!!
Thanks good video
Wheel nut should be one-time use and slowed video to .25 to see socket is 1 and 1/8 inch diameter=28.575mm rounded up to 29mm is answer in metric. Good idea to apply some silicone sealer to mating area of dust cap , after cleaning all surfaces well , to keep water away from bearing. 173 ft/lbs , while turning drum back and forth to seat bearings.
thank you for video
Tankes for your vedio
Always use a torque wrench on the hub nut... ALWAYS, if you sheer the threads you will have a crash, if repairing someone elses car you dont use the torque wrench and they crash you are liable in court. Secondly, only ever re use the hub nut 4 times. THIRDLY, never use sidecutters on brake cables only long nosed pliers.
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Torque the nut to 170 ft lbs. while turning the brake drum.
Studio loopz ml
Studio loopz
Better to remove the four bolts that hold the axle from behind.
And that is because of you don't know the correct torque, using a torque wrench is useless.
Very good and helpful video! Thanks, and Jesus loves you.
Thank you for watching!
Thanx for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Well made video
Disposable gloves, safety glasses, brake cleaner
White lithium grease, for the dimples areas, before to put the new brakes
Patience
First bolt size 30mm
Retainer clips, just hit it flat screwdriver and hammer, on the angule
Brake line 11mm
Plastic tubes for purge the brakes, (you dont need the caps)
Wheel cylinder bolts size 8mm
If your car has ABS like mine, remove the magnetic ring sensor, from your old drum
In my case, was a PITA removing the drum, because was very stuck...
You forgot to add grease to the grease points before putting the brake shoes on again.
an old flat blade screwdriver with a notch cut in it is handy for removing the springs
Can u swap out to disc on the zx2 or swap out to the stuff to make it the same as a focus
Good job
👍🤔good jobs
Thanks for a great video!
I have a ford focus 2001 model where Im thinking the rear drum is grinding when breaking. Its not a very high sound, but sounds like metal vs metal. Do you think changing the brekshoe will help?
Yes it will help but you might also need a drum. You wont know till you get it apart.
Thank you soooo much! I did it all by myself with just this video. Really appreciate it
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Historie youtube
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Thankyou this video
Thanks for watching!
you can buy an inexpensive one-man bleeder that has a check-ball in it to prevent air from going back in system when pedal is released , or...move seat back and wedge stick between pedal/seat after it is depressed fully for the last time. Then go tighten the bleed valve while pedal is to floor. (Scotty Kilmer Method) : )
I did my Jeep with it worked great. Preferably keep end of bleeder tube submersed in fluid.
Very good. What torque wrench setting do you use for a axle bearing nut with a 22 x 1.5 mm thread, thread height 20.5mm? For the same type of bearing as that.
"Use appropriate size wrench..." how about actually saying what size that is? In this case, 8mm. I question the wisdom of using side cutters instead of pliers. You risk damaging the spring, and the e-brake cable. The brake line should be reattached before replacing the fastening screws, to avoid cross-threading.
jbeargrr do you know what size the brake line is??
I wish he would say the required size for the hub nut at 0:53, would be much more helpfull as a DIY
jbeargrr my thoughts exactly on the cutter vs pliers
@@danielfair5989 The brake line nuts are 11mm. The bleeder screw is the same size on the back.
BrapTechFun better late then never.. the hubnut is 30mm
Pretty sure you should torque the hub nut, although the torque is majorly high, something like 235NM and you have to use a 3/4 torque wrench which is huge. They are also very expensive, nearly £500 pound I think so my college tutor informs me as i almost dropped it haha
+Garvey Evans Thank you for your comment. If you haven't already please subscribe.
Thanks boss
Thanks for watching!
Simple for learners
not really.
because they do not tell you what to do if the drum does not want to come off because of wear.
this is easy mode.
very good
great
Why does the Chilton manual say to remove the axle nut to remove the drum (as you did) while the Ford service manual says to remove the 4 bolts from behind the backing plate? The axle nut is of a layered design and only supposed to be removed four times before replacement.
Do you (can you) use the impact gun to tighten the main wheel nut, instead of using a torque wrench? Thanks. Great video. Well done.
Thank you for the comment, to your question you should use a torque wrench if you are not comfortable enough with the air tools for reassemble.
You should 1000% use a torque wrench
@@2carpros it's my understanding that you always use a new spindle nut and ALWAYS torque in increments, spinning the hub in between increments, my 2006 focus spec is 173-5 ft lbs.
I am envious of how little rust is on your backplate. I tried removing the 4 spindle bolts, but I broke my ratchet extension!
I'll be taking off the rubber seal and then use heat. I know that it will ruin the temper which will weaken the steel, but I've yet to find a better way!
Hear ya..UA-cam mechanics never have to deal with tons/mile of salt every winter..lucky them..
Just use penetrating fluid.
I was thinking the same thing. This would be a straight forward simple job if my car looked like this one. The brake line fitting crumbled to rusted bits when I tried to remove it. I love how the brake cylinder bolts appeared to be finger tight in this video. This job was a nightmare on the car I worked on.
good job thank
Thanks for watching!
Don't forget to torque! The 30 mm nut is 130 ft•lbs and the lug nuts to wheel is 90-95 ft•lbs
im wondering what you recommend doing with the brake dust water ? asking for a friend
Good boss
there is a rubber washer/gasket that came with the new wheel cylinder for my 2003 focus, you guys dont mention or seem to put one on? do i install it without? will it matter? and where does it go? its round and the piece that goes through the hole in the back-plate is oval?
Did you fix it?
Has anyone heard of a VICE GRIP pliers? Its the absolute best tool for auto repairs when you need to hold something, and hold it tight. It makes the spring attachment a cinch. Why possibly compromise the spring with something used to cut metal??! I don't get it.
We use side cutters becasue it grips the spring better. Vise grips sometimes slip off.
Tnx sir
Thank you for watching!
What size socket for the wheel cylinder bolts?
no answer to this question?
what size socket do I need?? using the garden wall as my handbrake these days...
13/16
Good.
Where did you get the plugs to stop it from leaking fluid? What size were they? Great video!
They're vacuum caps. Go into any auto parts store and buy the small variety pack. They're pretty cheap (I paid around $4 at Advanced Auto Parts), but they're extremely handy to have around.
Hi, nice video. Isn't the inner sleeve of the bearing suppose fit so tight that is stays on the axle? Regards
my brake shoes are so new that I can't get my drum back again, I tried and it went try but now seems that iweel is with brake all the time, what might be wrong?
Sounds like you have the self adjuster wound out to much. Remove the drum and thread the self adjust inward making the shoes re track. .
+2CarPros thank u that was the problem I jus finished the job, I followed your instructions and thank you so much
No problem please subscribe!
next492 you might need to replace your wheel Cylinder, check if the pistons are going all the way in so you can place your drums back on
I had similar problem. In my case I disconnected the emergency brake cable at the bottom, which was frozen by rust, and acted like it was always activated. This might help someone out there.
is this a Scotty Kilmer video?! wouldn't be this easy, removing the wheel cylinder on a 17-year-old vehicle in the rust belt! just did mine on a 2005 ford focus. was a nightmare.
Nope, it's me. Benefit of living in the desert I guess. Thanks for watching!
What size wrench do you need to disconnect the brake line from the weel cylinder rear brake ? ( Ford Focus ZTS 2000). THANKS
10
thank
what size of wrench did you use to disconnect brake line from wheel cylinders rear brakes what kind of tool did you use
good
Hi. It would be a great help if you state the nut sizes and show detail of the
automatic adjuster which appears different from the common type. Thank you
and 'thumbs up'
+Leo Lammas Thank you we appreciate your comment. If you haven't already please subscribe
I didnt knew they have drum brakes, i have 2 of them now and sold one few months ago but all had disc brakes
Just found out the what the cylinder is. My brake line has a pin hole and its closer to the cylinder so i cannot splice it.
Thank you.
Always a good idea when bleeding to use a small tube from the bleed nipple into a jar, two reasons a) To stop any Unnecessary brake fluid spillage, and to prevent air being accidentally sucked back into system
You are genius. This is what I was searching in the comments. And look here you are 👍👍👍👍
Also mechanic didn’t mention anything about inspecting the drum for grooves or uneven wear.
Thanks for the video, it really helped but got one question.... When bleeding the brakes, should the brake pedal stay down while locking the bleed nipple?
It should be a timed thing when someone is pressing the brake pedal down slowly you will be at the brake bleeder once the bleeder starts producing brake fluid(which is the same time the brake pedal is being pressed slowly) tighten the bleeder before the pedal makes it to the floor. I hope this helped please subscribe!
Thanks alot for replying :-)
Not a problem don't forget the subscribe if you haven't already :)
You should connect a tube to the nipple according the picture, otherwise you can easily get air into the system when releasing the brake pedal.
www.dummies.com/wp-content/uploads/131171.image2.jpg
thnx
Thank you for watching!
Thanks...
You're welcome!
remember guys that brake fluid is corrosive and any spillages etc, should be flushed away from the affected area with water.
Let's not forget to torque that hub nut to 173ft lbs!!!
What size is the line wrench needed?
3:40 you could depress the brake pedal and stop that fluid draining (with ABS)
+Mike T Thank you for your comment. Please subscribe
Wow so easy...When are some folks from north country areas or Canada going to post to show how it's done after about 10 winters where tons per mile of salt are dumped on the roads every year..????
I live in a desert. I can't make rust appear. Thanks for watching!
@@2carpros Yes you can..all you need is salt..try it..good times..trust me..
Spring flew into my eye, the pain was horrific make sure you were safety glasses trust me it hurt like a b****
Ouch! Great tip! Thanks for watching! Hope you are ok!
Jesus, hope you're okay.
You were lucky.
2005 model focus MK 2 de bununla aynı mı?
So theirs no need to bleed the rear brakes after replacing the cylinder?
Mark Chenevey @ 10:10 into the video it explains the bleeding process.
Is it the same when the car has ABS and when it is gone?
I notice you did not have to centralise the shoes to get the drum on . Was that luck
Vien echó amigo
How do I know If I have to change rear brakes on my car?
You mean Rear Hand Brakes , like the one he is doing ?
You can feel that when you Engage the Hand brakes [ using your foot to
press the hand brakes down ] , you feel that it does not Engage and
it won't be able to Hold the car In place and the pressure if felt on the
Transmission gear when you put it in the Park position , so only the
Transmission hold the car stable at this moment which puts pressure on
the Transmission ....
Why do you not locked hub nut. wheel loosen may be.
Ford Fiesta mk5
Grundeinstellung: Der Spreizer/ automatischer Nachsteller ( unter dem Zylinder) muss 6-8 mm herausdrehen ( 4-5 Gewindegänge). Sonst ist der Handbremsenzug zu lasch. Ich musste 2-3 mal nachstellen. Dadurch könnte ihr Zeit sparen.
So to clean it, you can use water instead of brake cleaner?
No you really need something that brakes down grease real well. So brake cleaner or carb spray. Thank you for watching!
What are the necessary tools for this job
Deez nuts
Use stub nose pliers when removing the shoe retaining clips...less likely to slip ; )
Also no need to use side cutter espesially on the handbrake cable. You can pull the spring back far enough by hand if the cable is in the right position.
Ae Leilua Thanks for the input! Please subscribe if you haven't already :)
Don’t disconnect any lights-it will keep air on lsystem .drive your car on reverse 5 miles an hour use the E brake to stop the car that will reset sorry I learned from you you might learn some for me