How To Stop Your Disc Brakes Rubbing! | Maintenance Monday
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- Rubbing brake discs can be one of the most annoying things when cycling! Not only does it sound awful, but it increases wear on components and (most importantly) it steals away those precious watts! Alex shows you how to stop this pesky issue.
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Leave us a comment below! - Спорт
What do you want to see Alex fix next on Monday Maintenance? Let us know in the comments!
Replace some full integrated shift wires with the out liners! xD
build a wheel, take apart a shimano pedal, center a tire on a rim.
oh.. 90%+ of cyclists would perform better with rim brakes over disc with the conditions they ride
Pressed bottom bracket in carbon frame.
Apple AirTag hidden in downtown be then locate the bike
Wheel hops
This was extremely helpful! I had a brand new bike put together by my LBS and had this annoying noise. This video helped me fix it myself and save a trip to the LBS.
Take a shot every time someone in the comments says “just ride rim brakes”
🥴
Right? Like rim brakes don’t rub.
Tip: put a white piece of paper on the ground in line with the brakes in order to check the brake rubbing, works en perfectly with low light!
This was actually super help full and simple to follow thank you so much gcn
Followed these steps and worked like a charm. Thanks GCN!
Wow I have been looking for this fix for months, I wish I could have seen this soon before I bought a new caliper. I tried the first fix and it worked. Thank you man
Business card tip used to fit the wheel and then removed works like magic
This trick works on some bikes, but not all.
Thanks... I am new cyclist. Have a disc brake bike. Since meet few time this issue. Tired every time go to bike shop for my brake alignment. Today see the teaching video . It help me a lot. And I fix it this issue. It very happy. Thanks GCN
Glad it helped!!
I have a bike that had some mild rubbing. I did the "push back the pistons" technique and it worked great! Super easy to do. Thanks for the quick and useful video.
Worked great on my ebike. Shop had slightly over tightened, so there was a tiny faint noise of rubbing coming from rear break. After this video I loosened the two rear alan bolts till loose then squeezed break hard, released, and tightened back up but not as much as too replace the same amount as last times "tighten" picking up bike my rear wheel now spun freely! So then I tightened just a little bit more to make sure it was securely tightened. I will go for a test break rise here soon.
Thanks!
9 out of 10 times the issue is warped rotor, mainly after overheating it on long descents.
Pretty much, Shimano road rotors suffer badly from this as the rotors are thinner than Sram & Campag, and on the last gen groupsets at least ( I think it's improved on the latest) have crazy tight clearances to the pads.
Lol yeah this propaganda channel will never address the most obvious reason because they have their marching orders.
I got brand new pads and rotors and the rotor scraps on the pads in one section. What can it be???
I performed what was shown in the video, and it still scrapes. Am I destined to bring it to my LBS??
Yep, after exhausting myself with all possible solutions this was the answer. It must have happened when I removed my tyre to remove my innertube.
Centering the calipers is not always that straight forward. Commonly forgotten is that the action of doing the bolts up moves the caliper off centre. A business card used on the offending side that the caliper moves works well here.
this and the second problem I found on cheaper bikes is that you dont have a good geometry and the caliper could be tilted. Then pretty much any technique end up rubbing.
this is a great idea! I just got my first bike in fifteen years, and can't for the life of me figure out why the front is rubbing. Tried centering, tried manual adjustment, neither worked. I was wondering if maybe part of the frame or caliper is bent a bit, but I'll try this trick before going to a shop :)
Did you figure it out @LaggerSVK
@@tevtev7985 no, if you find out that the caliper is misaligned I mean there is only one option - machining. But it could be also misaligned in such a fashion that even machining wont help. They do this in proper bicykle shop.
Legend! Thanks for this tip. Helped me solve an annoying rub I've had for weeks.
Shame it's gonna squeal again when a gentle breeze contaminates it.
I'd actually like discs but they just seem like such a pain in the a** to maintain. Also more expensive.
I'll admit I live in the mountains and there are times where I would have probably been more confident on discs and I'd love not to have to keep swapping rims over between aluminium and carbon depending on the ride.
Wiggle the wheel back and forth with a little brake pressure with the bolts slightly loose and GRADUALLY tighten the bolts one then the other then the other etc. whilst still running the wheel back and forth slightly. You are welcome.
+1 Just fully tightening allows the housing to twist with the torque, and almost universally you are back to where you started, if not worse. Get the bolts to just start tightening up (like just past finger tight), and do no more than a quarter turn each at a time and 9 out of 10 times you are gold.
which bolts....fucking shit...lol
Applying brake pressure while wiggling the wheel while tightening bolds… how many hands do you have?
Pushing pistons in, without cleaning them first is counterproductive, pointless and only creates problems in the long term. Clean pistons first, as the reason they don't work properly is because they are covered in gunk.
How to clean them ??
@@normen416 I usually use a tooth brush and brake cleaner to remove black residue leftover from brake pads. And then finish it off with a cotton swab and brake oil (same as used in your brake system) to lubricate piston. If you don't clean pistons amd just push them back you're introducing dirt and debris to brake fluid. That's why it goes black over time. There are some videos on UA-cam
@@normen416 I follow the advise of getting them to pop out a little (no more than ~1.5-2mm out), and go around the perimeter with a cotton swab with a bit of the brake fluid (mineral oil or dot fluid as appropriate). Push the pistons back in, then repeat until the swabs stop coming back black and both pistons come out smoothly and roughly at an equal rate. If one piston is stuck or much slower than the other use the tire lever to hold the opposite one in place as you cycle the lever to get the sticky one to pop up for more cleaning. Finish by fully depressing the pistons, clean the entire assembly with alcohol, and re-insert the pads.
@@normen416go to well know proper good bike shop,safe u time and silly effort will make matter even worsen
Meh
Difficulty with disc brakes always comes down to awful frame manufacturing and preparation: a big middle finger to manufacturers for cutting corners. Get your brake mounts faced properly and enjoy drama free disc brakes.
We had such a nice solution with conical shims on the MTB a few years ago. Worked perfectly in every condition. I don‘t know why this has disappeared.
@@chrisridesbicycles for road it's probably because flat mount brakes are designed to be more aero, for mtb it just disappeared. Which is sad because if your frame is crooked, then the disc is crooked
This. Absolutely.
@@dan_lazaro Yes, I can halfway understand it on road bikes but on the MTB side it disappeared without any reason. The only ever downside was that you always dropped one of the shims during mounting.
@@dan_lazaro While it's true that a crooked frame will cause disc squeal, it's also true that a sloppily faced disc mount will have the same effect. It's weird that Park sells the DT-5 disc mount facing tool to bike shops, because that's a tool only a frame builder should need. The mounts should come from the factory properly faced and never need to be touched again.
The only thing that worked for me was to take out the U shaped spring ( thin metal piece) that pushes the caliper apart and "reshape" it. I made it wider and that solved the problem instantly. It's been good all season after that fix.
I believe the manufactures should make a slightly more robust spring.
When you look at the force required to push the pistons back in, that little spring seems so inadequate doesn’t it. Surprised they aren’t more substantial
The spring isn't to push the pistons back, it's to keep the pads from rattling. You want the pads to stay as close to the disc as possible so you don't have to pump the brakes a couple of times before they contact. It's the rubber piston seal design that pushes the pads back "just enough".
@@jefferycampbell2243 ah, I see. Didn’t realise it was all down to the piston seal to retract them. Thanks for clarifying, I often wondered how that worked 👍
@@jefferycampbell2243 I'm pretty sure the piston can only squeeze the pads.
There is not enough negative pressure in the master cylinder to draw the piston back.
Like on a car the pads stay a hairs width away from the rotor because they don't warp.
This worked first time for me. great guide!
Love this video. Str84ward and no nonsense and fast!
Perfect timing, I removed my pads the other day to get the part number off of them, I must have installed them the wrong way around when I put them back, now they rub. But not for long……thanks
Thanks a lot I did it and worked very well. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Awesome job mate!
I’ve seen many videos where they demonstrate “pushing the callipers back in” but my thoughts are always that if the callipers have failed to go back in at some point -hence the need to push them back manually, what’s to stop this happening again, surely there’s an underlying problem which needs addressing. Won’t pushing them back in manually only fix this issue there and then, and probably for a very short period? It’s like saying if your car repeatedly blows the same bulb the answer is to replace that bulb and bingo! It’s working again. Lol.
thanks, helped a lot
hello.. i also have this problem on my bike. i also notice that when i center the callipers and once i put a weight on my bike (on a saddle)the fork tend to bend a few mm on the left making the brake callipers off the center. so what i did is to offset it. i dont know if im the only one with this problem
I bought some inexpensive automotive disc brake cleaner. When I oil my chain I clean the discs. It seems to help a little.
I have both a disc and rim brake bikes. The disc is much better in every situation except maintenance. They’re a nightmare. I spend minutes per year working on my rim brakes and hours on my disc brakes.
Totally agree, guess why I'm here? Bloody rear disk grating. Have now replaced the QR axle with a fixed one. Cannot get the thing to line up whatever. The pistons needs to go back further I think.
Love my roller brakes. Non of this bullshit. @@pigknickers2975
Simple video, fixed my issue. Thank you Sir!
A vid for the disc brake loving boy band haircut fraternity.
Important hint: When centering the caliper, after loosening the bolts and BEFORE applying the brake lever, manually push the caliper towards the frame. If you don't do that, the caliper will not be in its final position and tightening the bolts will change the position again (towards the frame) and possibly mess up alignment.
After loosening the bolts, i spin the wheel forward then apply brakes, holding on to it then i tighten the caliper bolts again. It works but your method would seem to be more effective.
Yo thanks for the tip, it was really helpful. I knew that something was missing, because the rubbing got worse after a couple of attempts. But after doing what you said it's perfect.
This is exactly what helped me! Thank you very much 😎
Good advice, thank you. 🙏🏻 On a related topic, what’s a reasonable torque for the rotor bolts?
6.2 N*m is what is printed on my rotors, so that is what I use. Always use fresh bolts with the blue thread locker, or add a dab of the liquid blue thread locker if the bolts are removed and re-used for any reason.
@@123moof Thank you. 🙏🏻 Yes, I sure will. My old bolts are starting to rust so I plan to replace them before they become too brittle to pry loose.
Thank you!
IT WORKED THANK YOU
Is he talking about the hex bolts holding it to the frame, for the loosening and tightening and using the front brake, or some other pair of them?
that's my question. what a jerk for not beong more clear...lol...shit!
Thanks for these relevant and simply videos, Alex. Very common problem.
Exactly the problem I faced. Was fixed with the first tip, thanks.
Sticking with rim brakes.
Disc brakes are like being in a real high maintenance relationship who has a load of allergies 🙂 squeeling, warping, over heating, contaminated, bent, misaligned...
hahaha! My fronts are fine, the back makes me so unhappy! Brilliant at stopping though!
Thanks! That was a quick fix to an annoying problem.
Your welcome! Now go on rub free 🙌
Applying the brakes while the caliper bolts are loose sounds good but never seems to work for me. The tollerances on the previous generation Ultegra are so fine I had to wait till the pads were worn a bit and then manually adjust the caliper while looking for light on each side of the rotor. Finally I now have a free spinning wheel but with nice brakes.
super helpful
Do these tips work on magura mt7’s etc???
Question about Latex inner tubes for you. So purchased my first set of Latex inner tubes September last year (running Vitorria Corsa 23mm tyres. 25mm on rim). I run at 92psi rear 82psi front. Previously I had been using Supersonics for a few years with absolutely no issues. I want to ask about the rapid pressure drop of Latex compared to the SS in the real world. I've seen Aerocoach's website and they claim a 3 watt saving for a set of Latex over SS. I have measured the psi drop from my Latex tubes at about 7psi after 4hours and more after 6 hours. Typical extended ride durations for me. Towards the latter end of these rides I can feel the rear tyre has gotten softer so there is going to be an increase in rolling resistance over time with Latex as it reduces pressure. So. Question is, how does this rolling resistance increase with ride duration affect the journey time? I can see a rude where overall it might be faster to use the Supersonic inners?
Ehh sorry, that word should ride
This is everything that is wrong with road cycling. Just enjoy the ride!!
Can be a old (4_5 years) brake pad became noisy? The pads ar not worn and i cleaned the brake rotor and also the pads really good so there's no contamination on them and i also have a great braking power but they always noisy. Can a fresh brake pad solve the problem??
Maybe, try burning them through a descent a bit, it should get rid of that old braking surface.
how about the rear disc? for shimano ultegra 12 speed?
Hi I adjusted my front wheel disc brake when I squeeze the lever and it does not braks well
My disc screechs when i apply the brakes…ive recently changed the pads n the whole unit except the rotors…the rotors seem fine to the eye…but will it require frequent changes toovv
Just clean the rotors properly with brake cleaner
Yes, to the comment about cleaning the rotors. But you also need to bed in new pads properly. If GCN doesn't have a video on it, GMBN has several.
@@jefferycampbell2243 thanks mate will definitely give it a try✌️
@@indiaismypride Rubbing alcohol works pretty well too in my experience. The squealing is most likely being caused by oils on the braking surface.
Is it me or the new Wahoo pedals with powermeter are set on this bike ? :P
I immediately thought so too. can hardly wait
Cantering callipers and fixing brake rub are an all to frequent occurrence for my road bike. Yet my mountain bikes and motorcycles are problem free. Could this point to a general design flaw in road bike systems? Anyone have a good solution?
Thanks a lot! Solved in 10 minutes a front wheel that won’t complete a full spin with a little push.
My disv just sounds on tuns i do the same?
My front brake became spongy after pushing the pistons in. Any clue why? Thanks
I understand recentering the caliper, but why does pushing the caliper pistons back solve the problem as well? Won't, at the first application of the brake lever, the problem come back?
I would like to know this too.
Contaminating the pads with bike cleaning fluids can also cause brake squeaking. Always rinse your brakes thoroughly after washing the bike.
A quick squirt of disc brake cleaner and wipe the rotors is a good first step if things are squealing during actual braking. Clean, sand, and re-bed the pads as well if still no luck.
@@123moof I had to stop using disc cleaner sprays, they are guaranteed to make my brakes squeal. They get them too clean almost, I could only resolve that by sanding the rotors. Once I stopped using the spray completely all has been good
Him 🗣️
The brakes:paaaampamppamp
Everyone I know with disc brakes tells me they rub. Now that is my two friends plus me. Three, as I understand it, is a crowd. Yes we are all in our seventies and moan about every new fad and development that comes along, but we also buy them all. After all these years we should know better but equally after all these years what else would we find to moan about as we cycle, that we have not moaned about a thousand times before? It is great being an OAP with time and money to spend productively and a huge thank you to technology and the never ending drive for profits that keeps us both disgruntled and happy.
9/10 pulling the brake and tightening the bolts does F-all! Especially with flat mount (non-centering bolt) brakes. Hate em. Wish I had never left rim brakes. I spend more time screwing around with disc brake than any other part of the bike (bleeding, centering, listening to screeching). Seriously hate them......
Only time I've had continuous squeal is because my shimano br785s calliper piston seals had failed ... on three separate sets of two over three years. Switched to Hope RS4 and not had the problem since.
Same here. oe Shimano calipers leaking almost from new. Changed to Hope rx4 calipers, solved.
After I loosed the bolts of the caliper, the position changed and now no matter how I fasten it, it's much worse than before and the wheel barely spins because it rubs much more. Oh well, time to go to the mechanic...
Same here this is frustrating
After i pushed the pistons, oil leaked from my sti. Could that be over pressure? What can i do?
Someone has bled your brakes when the pads were worn and that completely filled the system with brake fluid. That "extra" fluid had to go somewhere when you pushed the pistons back in and the only place to go is out the brake lever reservoir. Clean everything with alcohol and it should be fine. Just keep an eye on it to make sure you haven't damaged the seals in the lever.
There's a chance you may have broken the seal due to overpressure.
Highly likely its a seal/o ring issue. You cannot overfill with brake fluid.
Best way to sort sticky pistons one side keeps sticking tried everything even cleaning them
In the case of SRAM callipers, 1. Remove them from bike and throw in bin.
2. Fit literally any other braking system
I have SRAM Red hydraulic disc brakes with over 35000 miles on them and they are still braking superbly. Please be kind enough to send me your discarded calipers!
Only missing about 10 other set-up issues.
I'm just here to laugh at the rim luddites 😬
That bike looks sweet
Im 6'4" and this bike fits me perfectly. I'm also 380lbs and it holds my weight ...
I think Ill stick to rim brakes for road
9/10 your method does not work for my three disc bikes. I found the feeler gauges offered by several companies for disc brakes work great on centering the rotor while re tightening them.
Great
One would think that considering this video came out years after other channels offered the same advice, they would have offered some other clues. It's not always the centering!!!
I learned the hard way a few weeks ago never to actuate the brakes (hydraulic) when there is no rotor in place…
Keep the little insert (orange usually) that comes with most hydraulic brakes, and religiously pop it in place after removing the wheel. Keep the yellow brake block handy and insert it whenever you remove the pads. Save yourself much anguish.
How about on the rear wheel? I'm usually able to fix the front one, but the rear is quite difficult. Any tips?
Clean pistons, they should be white not covered in brake dust.
Gotta love rim brakes so simple
yes, simply no brakes in the wet with carbon rims. I will never change back!
@@dakalla Don't use plastic wheels then.
sadly i love carbon rims
@@user-nu5fx6en9h It is sad, your not trying to look like a pro , are you?
@@markbooth6745xd.
rim brake gang gang fo life!
Except that doesn’t work when the disc rotor gets warped….
I was going to make that exact same observation!
Well if it is warped then replace it. It's like saying pumping a soft tire with air does not work when the tire is punctured...
within limits disc rotors can be trued up. Park makes a tool for it - (DT-2), its cheap and easy to do.
@@bikndave68 the point is that fixing disc brake rubbing is more complicated than this video makes out and is misleading for people thinking about getting disc brakes.
@@2scottj a larger issue would be that you don't "get disc brakes" you buy a bike with them.
Disc brakes have their challenges, I agree. But if you spend the time to learn the ends and outs (avoiding mechanical disc brakes which are as tricky as they get) discs are within any home mechanics ability level. I've had them since 2013 on MTBs and since 2017 on the road, I won't go back.
If all that fails, check to make sure that your disc is true. Look to see if it "wobbles" back and forth while spinning. Sometimes they get bent, and even a tiny bend will cause it to rub no matter how perfectly your caliper is set up. If you feel comfortable truing it, give it a go. If not, your LBS will be able to do it no problem.
If even that fails, you may need to face the caliper mounting surfaces. Take it to a pro for this. You can ruin your frame if you mess this up. I wouldn't even trust just any LBS mechanic. You want a really good one for this.
I guess being a cyclist for 40 years makes you set in your ways, however I have always embraced change whenever it has raised its head. I have always thought positive change brings better applications for improvement, like electronic shifting, carbon frames, lighter parts and 12 speed. All massive steps to improve cycling, but I just cant understand why you would put disc brakes on a Road bike. I have several bikes 12 road bikes, Colnago, Pinarello, Canyon and Sworks and ALL are rim brakes and I have no intention of buying a road bike with disc brakes as rim brakes work. I just hope that Colnago and Pinarello dont stop making frame for rim brakes, as this change to disc brakes is about choice and my rim brakes dont rub ever
Agree 100%
I assume you don't commute then.
@@thegrowl2210 No retired, cycled 16,000 miles last year and 6 million feet in elevation
Just a week ago my rear tyre sidewall ripped apart, after a roadside repair with the tube bulging through the sidewall I still had 2 working disk brakes with some winding steep descents to do, if that were rim brake I would have had to release the rear brake and made do with just a front brake
@@nemeanf27 shit happens, I always carry a section of old tyre so if something cuts the sidewall. I then insert it inside the tyre to cover the cut in wall together with new tube that won't bulge out, good to go even 50 miles from home with TWO rim brakes.
When I heard the sound of squeaking breaks I thought I would finally learn the secret how to stop them from squeaking when the breakpads are applied (because that what the sound exactly was). You let me down :)
It's probably because you have something on your pads/rotor like oil/water and you need to clean them or because your pads/rotor didn't bed in very well
One exception would be that your brake mounts weren't faced by the manufacturer and the uneven surface creates vibrations when braking, that's a common thing nowdays
Your rotor or pads are contaminated. Keep them clean and you’ll never have any noise. Besides some rubbing, my disc bikes are silent.
It means you have metal brake pads, get resin and you'll not have any sounds
I hate disc brakes, never ending problems
It's straight up cancerous.
Just put a spot of oil on the rotor that will sort it out no more squeaks
haha 🤣🤣
You ignored the fact it could be a bent rotor
Ah sorry! Luckily, GMBN Tech have a good video here which could be helpful: ua-cam.com/video/BrOIKSU1brs/v-deo.html
This. And clean your rotors too
I don't have disc brakes. So I watch these videos with a cuppa and sip casually, "so much fuss"
Wiggling Shimano calipers with ceramic pistons.....asking for trouble.
Not a big deal when you use the plastic tire lever. The special tool is a bit useless here.
Yeah, this video is going to lead to a lot of broken calipers! :)
if hes already sweating imagine us home mechs trying to fix this...
Yes and it took me like 2 hrs tryna remove and put back my inner tube 😫
See your mechanic. Don't fool yourself
Swissstop 👌
rim brakes = problem solved and looks better.
Stopped my disc brakes from rubbing by a riding rim brake bicycle.
My brak got a big hit in the airport. Somehow the feeling about getting a hammer and trying to make it straight feels wrong. The first thing I learned about fixing my own bike was"if you want to use a hammer, ask a grown up" so here I am... 😐
Not buying the disc brakes is a much simpler solution! :D especially if you don't need them and their weight
It came with the bike I had
You got fucked over Michael. @@michaelaine14
Feel bad for you. @@michaelaine14
Never want to hear disc brakes squeal? only ride with people on rim brakes so pleasant!
Trumpet bikes :))
Push the pistons then you'll have a leaking mineral oil on your sti. 😅
Holy fuck it was simple lol damn. Thanks
This really makes me happy that I’m still sticking to rim brakes
Enjoy ur crappy braking ig
yes me too rim brakes are much simpler
"It's just another Maintenance Monday... oh-ooh-wo..... "
In my case: adjust the caliper bolts. Adjust them all the way. Notice it still rubs. Grab rubber mallet. Give Post Mount a solid whacking, test for disk rub, repeat.
Don't try this on carbon frames, hah.
Never had to do that on my cheap carbon frame and cheap aluminum fork. I just loosen the caliper bolts, spin the wheel, grab and hold on to the brake lever, then re-tighten the caliper bolts.
Didn't GCN say in a previous video that disc's had less maintenance issues than Rim brake?
Asking for a friend?
GCN are so bias now. I watched a video a few days back on tbe Zipp 404 firecrest wheels Si did on an orange Orbea... in that video the 4W saving over the older wheels was huge....
Yet on the rim vs disc video Bridgewater did the 16W saving rim brakes give was small apparently 🤷♂️🤷♂️
GCN have the opinion of whatever they are paid to say.
When they were sponspored by ceramic speed they raved about over sized pully wheels and ceramic bearings. Now they have said in a few tech videos that they don't offer much.
There was also a break in their muc off sponsorship, during that time they cleaned bikes with supermarket stuff.
They used to have balanced discussions on rim vs disc but now their sponsors seemingly want to push discs.
need to double check but I recall when Alex first started it was during the new Canyon aero bike hype and he said he preffered lightweight bikes. In the next week's show he had to "correct" his opinion and say he made a mistake and prefers aero bikes.
Once you know how their 'opinions' work you can ignore the marketing and enjoy the presenters.
Yes, more maintenance and much safer.
Marginally more maintenance but not much, but significantly better. If you’re the sort of person who thinks operating a tv remote is challenging then you may find it complicated but most adults should be capable of simple maintenance
For my case that is true. However, todays rim brakes are just as good imo. I prefer hydro disc though, no maintenence at all, once the pads are spent just change oil and pads and you are set. I hate cables.
I dont get the rubbing issue, never had it on discs.
2nd vid from GCN and neither addresses the rear disc brake rub!
No mention of a warped disc…