I surfed the cliffs before the stairs long board days but the short boards came in and my friend Topper started making fish’s , he was Home Cooking Surfboards then. My first one was 5’5” with hard rails. What I liked was hard rails so I didn’t surf Skip boards, not to say they aren’t good, I just preferred hard rails. I moved on to Brewer boards 7’ and now surf Blairs 7’6” quads . 72 years old and still surfing , the sport has been good to me, locally I surf La Jolla Shore and North County. Yeah Chris 👍👍
HPSB's have bulked up since the 00's. Dane Reynolds and Slater were the main leads on that, it seems, though fish stuff and such had been promoted from the mid 90's through the early 00's (or never stopped) and then Slater and Dane, with Wizard Sleeve and Neckbeard blazed the new era.
I surfed the cliffs before the stairs long board days but the short boards came in and my friend Topper started making fish’s , he was Home Cooking Surfboards then. My first one was 5’5” with hard rails. What I liked was hard rails so I didn’t surf Skip boards, not to say they aren’t good, I just preferred hard rails. I moved on to Brewer boards 7’ and now surf Blairs 7’6” quads . 72 years old and still surfing , the sport has been good to me, locally I surf La Jolla Shore and North County. Yeah Chris 👍👍
Loved the entire interview/ podcast DLS. As always when Skip Frye is mentioned I will give it a listen!
I still don’t get how 90% of surfers haven’t ridden a proper fish and persist with toothpick thrusters
HPSB's have bulked up since the 00's. Dane Reynolds and Slater were the main leads on that, it seems, though fish stuff and such had been promoted from the mid 90's through the early 00's (or never stopped) and then Slater and Dane, with Wizard Sleeve and Neckbeard blazed the new era.
0:27 this guy must be like 100 years old shortboard guy until 1920
…. until he was 19/20 (years of age ;)
@ that makes more sense 😂😂😂