Even though changing the ignition made little difference on the dyno I still think it was worth doing. You made a good point about the overall power, it being good for the time it was built. I look forward to the rest of the upgrades you have planned Steve. 👍👍
If I had that and wanted to keep the stock engine I would increase the compression ratio as well put a better carb and ignition and have less things on the engine. For me personally I would put a diesel in it and lockers.
Need loc-tite on the mounting screws. Vibration can work those screws loose and cause all kinds of missing and lousy running. Ask me how I know!🙄 It took me a week to track that one down!
the small capasitor is for radio noice.. the weeeeeeEEEEeeeEEEEeeee radio sound filter the big RESISTOR is a old radio sound dampening too to not make sparks go klick klick klick klick when spark plugs ignight... so please ask a electro duude about the spark sice if you remove set RESISTOR and sign on for the MATT OFFROAD WRECKER OLYMPIC.. even you dont partisipate you can display you truck and worst thing happening som 1000 subs.. respect.. i realy hope for a huge turnout of wreckers on display so the fans can meet you..
Same thing, just reading the timing at different RPMs. The 34-38 degrees is total timing I was setting the base timing (before centrifugal and vacuum advances kick in) as stated in the original Technical Manual.
When you drilled out the rivets you seemed to have disconnected the vacuum advance rod as well. Did you manage to reconnect it? It wouldn't affect the max power but might affect part throttle behaviour.
Hmmmmm, I guess you are seriously into that uhhhhh patina stuff? I would have cleaned the distributor myself? Did you check to see if the vacuum adavnce actually works & how much adavance it adds and just not show it?
Even though changing the ignition made little difference on the dyno I still think it was worth doing. You made a good point about the overall power, it being good for the time it was built. I look forward to the rest of the upgrades you have planned Steve. 👍👍
Always interesting to see a before and after Dyno analysis.
I love it when you say “ it’s that easy” . On my couch it does seem easy. Otherwise maybe not!
You should enter your truck in the Matts Off Road Recovery Wrecker Games.
Great video ! but at 6:30 that red wire is going to eventually get rubbed through.
I figured a flathead six wouldn't make a lot of power, but this makes the flathead six Power Wagon look like a 383...
i think i see a little coolant dripping from the upper rad hose at the radiator, just fyi in case you were not aware of it
Pertronix is the Bomb...
Neat old truck Steve , Loved the video , HAPPY NEW YEAR MY FRIEND !!! How about a Best Of 2023 vid !!!
what a great old truck, sure beats chopping it up and turning it into refrigerators or worse
Where does he get those wonderful toys?
Excellent video Steve :) also very good information and interesting to ! Looking forward more videos too soon!
If I had that and wanted to keep the stock engine I would increase the compression ratio as well put a better carb and ignition and have less things on the engine. For me personally I would put a diesel in it and lockers.
Next time…take the points to a jeweler and get them to coat the contacts in gold. No more corrosion. Good to go.
It still has more power than my '78 VW Bug!
Petronix ignitions are about drivability! However your power wagon is crying out for a diesel swap!
Need loc-tite on the mounting screws. Vibration can work those screws loose and cause all kinds of missing and lousy running. Ask me how I know!🙄
It took me a week to track that one down!
You mean the little Pertronix screws?
@@ThisWeekWithCars Yes. The two screws that secure the Pertronix unit in the distributor. Mine came loose and the car started running like crap!
Surprised that there was so little difference
the small capasitor is for radio noice.. the weeeeeeEEEEeeeEEEEeeee radio sound filter
the big RESISTOR is a old radio sound dampening too to not make sparks go klick klick klick klick
when spark plugs ignight... so please ask a electro duude about the spark sice if you remove set RESISTOR
and sign on for the MATT OFFROAD WRECKER OLYMPIC.. even you dont partisipate you can display you
truck and worst thing happening som 1000 subs.. respect.. i realy hope for a huge turnout of wreckers on display
so the fans can meet you..
on Nicks garage he sets his engines to 34, 36, 38 degrees so yours at 2 is different. state the torque ? 180 torque was it?
Same thing, just reading the timing at different RPMs. The 34-38 degrees is total timing I was setting the base timing (before centrifugal and vacuum advances kick in) as stated in the original Technical Manual.
When you drilled out the rivets you seemed to have disconnected the vacuum advance rod as well. Did you manage to reconnect it? It wouldn't affect the max power but might affect part throttle behaviour.
It didn't disconnect it, might have just looked like it but if you pause it after at the right place you can see it was always attached.
@@ThisWeekWithCars Ok, My bad.
Nice. Great demo on changing to electronic ignition. Is Petronics your go to equipment?
123Ignition is my go to but Pertronix is available for everything so you have to use it a lot.
Something's wrong with CB Points pivot/fulcrum ... Duceillier Points I believe.
The screw that you were having so much trouble with can be loosened with a wrench. It is a hex head .
I could see that but it looked all boogered up from years of use.
Hmmmmm, I guess you are seriously into that uhhhhh patina stuff? I would have cleaned the distributor myself? Did you check to see if the vacuum adavnce actually works & how much adavance it adds and just not show it?
Yes the advance works
@@ThisWeekWithCars, Sweet