WOW. Felicitaciones. Te has convertido en el mejor armador de baterías sin dudas. Impecable terminación. Saludos desde Uruguay. Te sigo desde los tiempos de las baterías amarillas del Samba. Cuánta historia ha pasado !
I ordered 12 boxes of these and want to say they are great cells. I'm using them for a very high power application where energy density doesn't matter as much as power density. I've been doing testing using a 2P4S configuration and I'm seeing the cell temperature stabilize with ~20C temperature rise at 200A continuous using passive cooling. That is with cycling the cells 20%-80% using charge/discharge current that varies between 100A and 350A over many hours continuously. I just wanted to let anyone who's interested know.
@@HuyTran-zy9sv I did a charge to 3.5V and discharge to 2.8V at 350A constant current and saw 144ah, so 72ah/cell. The observed capacity that the Orion BMS has calculated is 140ah.
@@patricke3848these are quite impressive numbers. 350A charging on a 144Ah pack. More than 2C. Does the datasheet say anything about charging specs? Did you AC IR test your cells with a YR or RC milliohm meter?
@@ericklein5097 There isn't a datasheet and the manufacturer won't provide any information. Jehu did an IR test in one of his previous videos on these cells, which is why I decided to purchase them. I can't recall what it was exactly, but something like 0.4-0.7. My Orion BMS is calculating 0.7 at 25C without current and as low as 0.15 at 40C while cycling. They were designed for engine starting batteries, so they're designed for power density/low resistance. Watch some of the other videos on this channel, they'll easily do 3C, but will likely need to be actively cooled to do that continuously over many hours.
I've been told it's not recommended to run lithium with led acid so would you recommend deleting the lead acid under my hood and would it be okay to place this battery under the hood in its place?
Btw I've been following you for a while and I've defended your extensive knowledge in several audio groups. People will hate. You just keep being you and you'll keep being successful 💯
How does one even calculate bus bar thickness/width for ev application in this case? Supposedly you go by cross sectional area but it seems like aluminum bus bars punch WAY above their calculated rating To match a copper 4/0 gauge cable, which has a cross sectional conductor area of 107mm2, you'd need 40% more aluminum are or like 180mm2, which would be 28mm wide by 6.3mm thick but it keep seeing bars less wide and thinner carry crazy amps......how? also is this 5052 aluminum or 6061?
No BMS included, but if you're using it for car audio you wouldn't want the BMS limiting your power anyway. It's easy to add a battery balancer like a BattGo BG8S using the small green screw-in terminal (no soldering) These things are beasts, we're talking 14,400W burst power. You can always add a high amp BMS, but they can be pricey.
Hi i hope you are doing good. I ordered a 15x Sony Muratta VTC4 2100mah 30a Rated 18650, through your site to the Philippines. I don't know how the process works, or how long. But I have not received any email confirmation yet, and it's been 5 days. I hope you can look into it, I'm very excited to receive the batteries. Wish you all the best. Thanks,
@@km-b4253 I think that if I can, I have a 350 amp alternator and about 14.5 to 15 v. My question is if the batteries need anything special to be charged.
@@km-b4253 en esa misma estoy yo bro! pero segun vi algo anoche y si el voltaje es mas que el nominal de la baterias pueden cargar. Pero lo me tiene frenado que dicen que las baterias de lithum pueden danar los alternadores por la gran cantidad de corriente que las baterias demandan, pero nose si eso se aplica a nosotros que tenemos altenardores de gran capacidad o para los alternadores de frabrica de los carros.
Copper.... always a much better choice than aluminum in (nearly) all circumstances. The ability of a conductor to carry current is a is based on the cross sectional area of said conductor. Although aluminum is a good conductor, copper is better. True that copper costs a bit more and is heavier than aluminum, but the current carrying ability of copper is considerably higher than the same cross sectional area of aluminum. As a 40 year (now retired) master electrician, I know what I'm talking about.
Unfortunately it's no longer "a bit" more expensive, aluminum is 30% of the cost of copper, so my 5 bus bars for a bench test rig for my EV project is $69 in copper from send cut send, or only $20 in aluminum Mind you I'm using 6061 t5 aluminum, 1/4" thick, should be more than enough thickness for some serious continuous amps, also I'll be slathering the aluminum in novalox to halt any kind of possible corrosion
@@benkempSilver is more conductive, but tarnishes easily. It's the corrosion resistance which makes gold better for exposed contacts, not its conductivity
They were wrong because I wasn’t building batteries that needed aluminum. These new batteries are a new thing…. Were you not paying attention to the video?
WOW. Felicitaciones. Te has convertido en el mejor armador de baterías sin dudas. Impecable terminación. Saludos desde Uruguay. Te sigo desde los tiempos de las baterías amarillas del Samba. Cuánta historia ha pasado !
I ordered 12 boxes of these and want to say they are great cells. I'm using them for a very high power application where energy density doesn't matter as much as power density. I've been doing testing using a 2P4S configuration and I'm seeing the cell temperature stabilize with ~20C temperature rise at 200A continuous using passive cooling. That is with cycling the cells 20%-80% using charge/discharge current that varies between 100A and 350A over many hours continuously. I just wanted to let anyone who's interested know.
what is the ah you actually got for each cell?
@@HuyTran-zy9sv I did a charge to 3.5V and discharge to 2.8V at 350A constant current and saw 144ah, so 72ah/cell. The observed capacity that the Orion BMS has calculated is 140ah.
@@patricke3848these are quite impressive numbers.
350A charging on a 144Ah pack. More than 2C. Does the datasheet say anything about charging specs?
Did you AC IR test your cells with a YR or RC milliohm meter?
@@ericklein5097 There isn't a datasheet and the manufacturer won't provide any information. Jehu did an IR test in one of his previous videos on these cells, which is why I decided to purchase them. I can't recall what it was exactly, but something like 0.4-0.7. My Orion BMS is calculating 0.7 at 25C without current and as low as 0.15 at 40C while cycling. They were designed for engine starting batteries, so they're designed for power density/low resistance. Watch some of the other videos on this channel, they'll easily do 3C, but will likely need to be actively cooled to do that continuously over many hours.
I am very excited about this product. Just ordered one a few minutes ago, can’t wait to get it!!!
I have one, I love it. Charges quick. Bought it earlier this year.
These would be great for banking power for micromobility battery recharging cabinets.
Waiting for mine to arrive here in Antigua WI Caribbean it's the 4s 12v can't wait
To still get blow
20 series aluminum extrusion makes a lovely bus bar 🤣
Make sure to put some insulation material between the cells and the metal enclosure. The thin wrap around the cells will wear through over time.
I recently purchased the FAT version......💪🏿🔋
have you gotten it ? i got the same one but i’m trying to find a charger that would work for it . what do you recommend
What bms are you guys using?
@@omtfiji yes i recieved it....i purchased a jesverty sps 3010 charger. i havent had to charge it yet though
Use solder paste 180 degree and put a small circle around each bolt hole and then another board on top and hit with heat gun.
i want a slim model but i dont have the extra money right now :(
What is the best voltage for these?
How bout using 4 of these in series to power an EZ Go Golf Cart?
Yes
I got the lights i ordered and they are not the same ones that you hung in the bay. You showed in the video a different led light with bigger leds?
What do these need to be charged at?
3.65 x 4 = ....
These don't require compression plates?
Only time will tell. We have compression plates if you don’t want to take that gamble.
I have run them with and without and so far no difference....
What size Allen key and mm length of the power blocks? For 0/4GA?
Can they be used for a tesla linked up?
I have easy access to aluminum scrap. So I make my own bus bars.
My alt charges at 14.5 volt, can I use this on my audio system in my car?
Yes
Good because I bought one last week. Thanks for the fast shipping here to chattanooga tn. Good looking out.
I've been told it's not recommended to run lithium with led acid so would you recommend deleting the lead acid under my hood and would it be okay to place this battery under the hood in its place?
Btw I've been following you for a while and I've defended your extensive knowledge in several audio groups. People will hate. You just keep being you and you'll keep being successful 💯
How does one even calculate bus bar thickness/width for ev application in this case?
Supposedly you go by cross sectional area but it seems like aluminum bus bars punch WAY above their calculated rating
To match a copper 4/0 gauge cable, which has a cross sectional conductor area of 107mm2, you'd need 40% more aluminum are or like 180mm2, which would be 28mm wide by 6.3mm thick but it keep seeing bars less wide and thinner carry crazy amps......how?
also is this 5052 aluminum or 6061?
Is there a BMS in it?
No BMS included, but if you're using it for car audio you wouldn't want the BMS limiting your power anyway. It's easy to add a battery balancer like a BattGo BG8S using the small green screw-in terminal (no soldering) These things are beasts, we're talking 14,400W burst power. You can always add a high amp BMS, but they can be pricey.
Will it work 400amp alternator? Charging at 14.8
Hi i hope you are doing good.
I ordered a 15x Sony Muratta VTC4 2100mah 30a Rated 18650,
through your site to the Philippines.
I don't know how the process works, or how long. But I have not received any email confirmation yet, and
it's been 5 days.
I hope you can look into it, I'm very excited to receive the batteries.
Wish you all the best. Thanks,
FYI, Jehu doesn't sell those nor does he ship overseas (I checked), so I think you're confusing him with another store. Hope you get them OK
One question, can I use my car's alternator to charge the battery? I have a large car audio system and I am super interested
I don't think you can charge these with a car alternator.
@@km-b4253 I think that if I can, I have a 350 amp alternator and about 14.5 to 15 v. My question is if the batteries need anything special to be charged.
@@pandaturbo yo tengo un 380 también. Y la verdad que no la e comprado porque no e visto ninguna información de que si se pueda cargar o no
@@km-b4253 en esa misma estoy yo bro! pero segun vi algo anoche y si el voltaje es mas que el nominal de la baterias pueden cargar. Pero lo me tiene frenado que dicen que las baterias de lithum pueden danar los alternadores por la gran cantidad de corriente que las baterias demandan, pero nose si eso se aplica a nosotros que tenemos altenardores de gran capacidad o para los alternadores de frabrica de los carros.
Looks like the max charge on the site says 360 amp.
Copper.... always a much better choice than aluminum in (nearly) all circumstances. The ability of a conductor to carry current is a is based on the cross sectional area of said conductor. Although aluminum is a good conductor, copper is better. True that copper costs a bit more and is heavier than aluminum, but the current carrying ability of copper is considerably higher than the same cross sectional area of aluminum. As a 40 year (now retired) master electrician, I know what I'm talking about.
Unfortunately it's no longer "a bit" more expensive, aluminum is 30% of the cost of copper, so my 5 bus bars for a bench test rig for my EV project is $69 in copper from send cut send, or only $20 in aluminum
Mind you I'm using 6061 t5 aluminum, 1/4" thick, should be more than enough thickness for some serious continuous amps, also I'll be slathering the aluminum in novalox to halt any kind of possible corrosion
Silver bars would be best
@@jehugarcia Gold!
@@benkempSilver is more conductive, but tarnishes easily. It's the corrosion resistance which makes gold better for exposed contacts, not its conductivity
platinum
How many$?
yes
🇬🇧🙏🏻
I don't think it's a good idea to have those cans of corrosive liquid near those batteries! Can of coke soda...lol
So this channel started as a DIY videos and its just advertisements for his online store? is that it? the channel of old is gone?
I do what I can, these days between running a company and designing products, leaves very little time to make creative videos
I find it interesting how they were all wrong but yet you are doing it anyway🤔🤣.
They were wrong because I wasn’t building batteries that needed aluminum. These new batteries are a new thing…. Were you not paying attention to the video?
SI units are never plural. The correct spelling is 10,000 Watt and NOT 10,000 Watts as in the title.
Do these need a balancer