My dad and his dad hated anything yo do with guns and hunting. Suoer smart guys, great family men, but . . . This is the surrogate figure, avuncular, friendly, well informed, thoroughly professional, a seasoned professional with great grasp of context. The counterpart of Paul Harrell. Best content on this media. Thanks for investing the time!
Thank you for a great video! You just reinforced what my dad taught me when I was 9 years old (70 years ago) about cleaning a gun. I've been doing it the same way ever since. I have several lever actions, some pumps, a few bolt actions and about 10 different types of handguns, most are older or about the same age as me and I have had several all my life and will pass them to kids and grandkids.🙂
Thank you sir. I inherited my fathers old model 94 and was going to pass it on to my son. I wanted a good video for him to watch about maintenance for it. I really appreciate your comments about oil in the action, and protecting the crown. So many shooters these days are just sheep that follow whatever craze is running the internet.
I have a few lever guns and love them all. A little too much it seems. Thank you for your willingness to impart your wisdom and knowledge which you have obviously collected over many years . Great channel. Thank you .
Wow. Now that’s incredible cleaning instructions. Well done indeed. Okay, so he bumped the stock on vice a little. Geez, give him a break. That shows guns aren’t so fragile to great extent. This man = A+
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Carl Oakley i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Man, I just went out into my garage and used an air compressor and a tshirt to clean excess oil from my 94! I also cleaned the barrel for the first time the RIGHT way, thanks to you! I also put it away upside down for a while to hopefully pull any light oil away from the stock to where I can get at it in a few weeks or days. Very soon my 30-06 Herters bolt action will get a new set of eyes on it as well! THANK YOU for taking the time to share when clearly you already knew what to do. Stewardship is more than a word with you.
Thank you so much for this advice. Too much oil means added dust and grit. My father was a mechanical engineer for over 40 years dealing with machinery. He said by far, the reason for malfunction of machinery was dirt and grime. So keep the oil to a minimum.
the reassuring certainty of your instructions left me with the confidence that the information presented was without flaw, also, kudos for the calm and colorful way of teaching, it kept my interest from start to finish, even though I've accumulated the same wisdom over the years. thank you for the lesson in how to teach. keep up the good work!
My oldest brother, who was an MP in the Army at the same time that you were, lives in the desert southwest. He keeps his actions dry because of all of the dust storms that roll through the area. Living here in the Midwest we have a lot of humidity so I do keep a light film on the inside of the barrel and across the action just to prevent the rust. I keep a large bag of dehumidifier clay in the vault and put it in the oven to dry it out once a year. So far so good (4 years). Peace be with you.
Patman Crowley Exactly. We New Englanders have the same humidity conditions. You might someday save some space and effort by installing a golden rod. Mine has been keeping my guns rust free since 1987, and on pennies a month.
I just bought the 99 savage. Sir you have my attention. This wood grain firearm addition is new to me. I also bought a Henry h001 .22 with a beautiful dark walnut finish I don’t want to ruin it thank you
I'm performing maintenance on my grandfathers Savage 99 chambered in .308 now trying to restore it close to when he bought it new in the 1950s. Thank you so much for this video, it helped so much!
Hello! Just wanted to tell you that I really enjoy the style of your instructional videos. Reminds me of the some old timers I've known through out my life time of 60+ years. These men that I refer to were very knowledgeable about fire arms of all kinds. Thanks for what you are doing. Dave
Drafted in 1966, was taught to use a shaving brush with a couple drops of gun oil to oil my guns. Still using that same brush after 54 years. Thanks, enjoyed your video. Like lever rifles, have a 99, 94, 336 c and a Sears & Roebuck ( 336 ) so naturally I'll read/watch any thing pertaining to them. Thanks again, enjoy all your videos.
I learned a lot, and all of it makes perfect sense. I oiled guns, but now, following your expertise, I have a much better understanding of what needs to be done. I also own Volquartsens, and they do not want oil in the actions, they make a point of "no oil". Their machining is extremely tight, so hence no oil. Thanks, good video!
Wow it's almost like you made this video to cover everything I've always done wrong while cleaning- I excessively worry about damaging my rifles and if there's a hole or crevice I make it my mission to get oil into it. You sir just saved me some hard earned money- although you may have hurt the economy as I won't be purchasing oil in 45 gallon containers anymore. I really appreciate your videos- thanks for posting and sharing your knowledge.
@@GunBlue490 if you don’t mind me asking what is the exact process you used to remove the oil from your savage? I was gifted one but in 243 and the wood is saturated it deserves some love. Thanks for your hard work and wisdom sir and God bless you and your family.
I acquired a Sears 'Ted Williams' Model 100 30-30 just recently. As you know, it was made for Sears by Winchester as a replica 94. After firing it (ow!) a few times I watched several Winchester 94 disassembly/reassembly videos I was able to take it apart and put it back together. Though all the inner workings are not exactly the same, they were close enough to where I could do it with a little intuitive thinking. It wasn't that hard for those that want to try. And yes, it did fire afterwards.:)
You are a very knowledgeable person and I appreciate your videos. Using a dry toothbrush followed by compressed air to blow out the action has been a big help.
This video was an incredibly huge help for me. I was handed down a 54 300 savage that is in near mint condition and I was really getting confused as to how to properly clean it as everyone seems to have a different idea as to how to do it. I now know EXACTLY what to do. Thank you very much for this vid.
I have enjoyed many of your videos and learned a lot of valuable information from each of them, watching you locking the barrel of your rifle in your bench vice gave me an idea you might like. Your wooden inserts are a great idea but as most machinists know the best way to hold round stock is a v block. By increasing their thickness to 3/4” plywood and cutting a horizontal v grove in each side at the height of the vice’s jaw, with a 1/8 pitch so liquid will roll out of the end you choose, will lock the barrel in place with a lot less force. You could even make a double grove for lever actions with a tubular magazine like a Winchester.
Ive watched this video like 5 times. I love the relentless mocking of over oiling! Love your videos GunBlue I've learned so much from them! I have long been a proponent of keeping firearms dry.
Thank you for another excellent video. Your common sense regarding firearms is refreshing. Though I admit, in the past, to being an over-luber (mainly concerned with rust) I stored my guns barrel down so any runoff was a non issue.
Just bought a 94 in S&W 32, says on barrel. Nice outside but very filthy inside of the action. Know I learned how to clean it. What a Great Video!! Thank You and God Bless!
Wow!! thank you so much for this video!! I never knew the action should be dry!! I have been over oiling my guns! This was a real eye opener! I love my model 94 and will be taking much better care of it from now on!!
My solution to over-oiling? Thin layers of high quality grease on strategic metal-on-metal areas. Grease stays where you put it, though light oil application is sometimes necessary.
Very good presentation. The muzzle damage issue was explained well. This is mysterious to those who are trying understand the effect of crown irregularities within the barrel. Your explanation - that it is what happens *outside* the barrel in terms of aerodynamic pressure - clarifies this issue. Thank you.
That is one gorgeous Savage. Also, as one whose introduction to firearms was via military surplus rifles which were similarly laden with years of crud, I love hearing stories of fine firearms restored to prime condition with some elbow grease and TLC.
Hello Sir, I've been addicted to your videos as i saw them for the first time. THANKS A LOT for such a great teaching from your part. Greetengs from Spain
Thank you sooo much. I only have 1 lever gun and I have only taken it out 2 times. I was cleaning it wrong! Now I know to turn it upside down to keep the crap out of the action. And not worry about all of the excess oil. Great video and thank you for sharing your expertise.
I clean my 99-300 right side up but pack the magazine well with terry towel to keep cleaning fluids and possibly lube from getting down in the works...especially with a brass mag spool. Nicely informative video...thanks.
I just came into possession of my Grandfathers 1953 Savage Model 99. I have the original box of ammo Only four rounds were missing/fired. It has been a closet rifle for about maybe 25 years? I came across this cleaning video today. Thanks. I was not sure about cleaning the action. Now I do. Thanks. I have enjoyed your other videos for revolvers.
Sir, hoping this post finds you well. I just discovered your channel and was so impressed I was compelled to subscribe. We seem to have much in common. Although I must admit I didn't learn anything new, it's wonderful to get validation from such an expert. Good common sense and respectful information. You never talk down or seek to impress. You should be proud. Well done Sir. RJM
You are no liar sir, and I must give you high praise for that. Until viewing this video, and then re-watching it as I cleaned my own piece, i will be honest and say I somewhat doubted your technique. I can tell you that opinion has made an abrupt change! I used to clean guns exclusively with patches, I would use dozens back and forth, back and forth through the bore, until they came out spotless. Needless to say, this process took a very long time, and expended a lot of materials. Then, in my ignorance, i would oil the action of my model 70, every time! It was just what I was taught I guess. Their was even one time, I wiped the whole gun down with ballistol (the only time I made the mistake of using that awful smelling product) thinking I was doing it a favor, again wrong. I also, am now a supporter of not only cleaning in a vice, but upside down, which feels wrong, and right at the same time, as everyone else in fireams world would grimice if they saw a gun in a vice, but my how sturdy it is when set in with wooded calls the same as you have. In conclusion, after doing a heafty dose of shooting with my brand new 1873 lever action (which i did not bother “breaking in” by the way) i cleaned the gun with your exact method, and expelled only 7 patches and most likely 5 times less hoppe’s. At the conclusion of my cleaning, which took little time, i was left with a gun that was cleaner than I had ever gotten one before. Thank you sir for all that you share, you lessons have been an absolute gem for a young shooter like myself.
G'day ol' mate, I enjoy your videos, always got great info. You said you've been shooting 55 years, I've been shooting for 50 years and from day one we were held responsible for the cleanliness of the rifles. I agree 100% on the no oil in the action. When I clean my rifles I use what we've termed for years as the "grey cloth". This is simply a cloth onto which graphic powder was lightly spread, rubbed in and shaken. A final rub over the moving parts just adds the smallest amount of dry lubricant to contacting surfaces, but not enough to cause a mess. Excess graphite will get messy so the amount dusted onto the cloth is minimal. I shoot black powder in my Sharps (45-120) exclusively, so after each session I totally strip, wash, scrub, clean, scrub and clean again to ensure every trace of residue is removed (I love my Sharps), it is still in virtually brand new condition, purchased back in the early '80s when Sharps Arms Inc reopened their factory. I was a little disappointed that you didn't strip the '94, even for a "have a look at this" session on it, but hey, ya can't have everything. Agreed, not necessary to totally strip and clean if using nitro powder. Down here in Oz we're not looked after like you guys over there and I'm still waiting for my Marlin CB (95) in 45-70 to turn up, been waitin' months and still got a months to wait. I'll be using BP for noise and effect with this baby mostly, but nitro for hunting so total strip down & clean will be of necessity to ensure it is kept in top condition. As you iterated, the 95 is a lot easier to strip than the 94. Again, thanks for the video, greatly appreciated and enjoyed. Cheers from downunder mate :)
+Pilot McBride As for stripping the 94, it's flawed in that respect. The lever link screw is heavily staked in place on both sides. While disassembly is certainly possible, as I've done on numbers of occasions for service, it's highly advised to leave it alone, as the screw can only be restaked once or twice before it will no longer have a good purchase. Once it begins loosening, the gun will become utterly worthless. The forestock and buttstock may be removed, but I don't encourage that, simply because again, this model tends to lose integrity once such parts are manipulated too often. One the other hand, this model came out with smokeless powder from its inception and doesn't require a full breakdown for washing. As long as it's not flooded with oil that can certainly make a mess, all will be fine for many years. Thank you for watching!
I love that Savage, one very beautiful rifle. Thank you for a very informative video. I learned quite a bunch of gun info. The pre '64 '94 Winchester is a prize as well. Cherish them both.
high gunblue it's Carl, WATCHING "How to Clean Lever Guns" now i question my old practices. I am 67 years old and i learned from a older man ,my mentor how to do it. Clean with Hopps then run a path with RIG rust inhibiting grease through the boar, take a rag with RIG and wipe down the barrel and steel and finished. As Fred would say " rig stays where u put it". When i got older i fell for the new mindset' Sweets 7.62 approach, pulling the copper out. And i did. long soaks, and patches until no more blue.After a range session disapointment, the groups were all over the place. i felt i burned out the barrel After watching your video's, leaving the copper to fill the low spots i can understand. My old deer rifle before i went to the 270 was all over the place after i cleaned it. Would love to here from you. U are the only one i trust on the Net.
Carl Lovendale Sweets is extremely aggressive and should never be left in a bore to soak. I can only recommend that you watch my video on how to clan a rifle professionally. A simple cleaning is all any rifle requires. Use grease (Rig is just grease) with discretion, and be sure to wipe all traces out before firing.
Most excellente!! For those still wanting the large traces of copper out there is a fun way to remove it. After you get done shooting your hunting loads, fire off some reduced loads (1200 to 1400 fps) with copper bullets and it takes it right out. Good offhand shooting practice to boot. I have seen excessive copper come out when cleaning with a patch where it isn't just a smear over the low spots but small copper hair like strands that come loose( not the brush bristles or case shavings either). This gets it out. Trail boss powder is the hot ticket.
Gerat video! I have a 1948 Md 94 32 special that is brand like new, maybe a box of rounds through it, maybe. It was my Dad's and I just keep it in the safe.
this is of great interest to me beyond the excellent instruction because i acquired a similar 99 about 25 years ago in 300 savage with a serial number indicating ww 2 vintage. it appeared to be in unblued steel and without a single bit of rust, possibly in stainless, but unlikely in our research. the iron sites were gone, and no stith mounts in the shop's gunsmith parts bin. we finally made a deal after a couple of weeks and deep in my safe it resides, unshot by me--not unusual in my last few years of collecting long ago now....
I agree with your cleaning i always said to much oil collects dirt.. I use tetra gun grease.. With a qtip and then wipe it off only reason ive ever done that was to keep my winchester 94 from starting any rust.. Tetra has something good in it Becouse over the last 15 year's I've never had any rust form of course i always dry out good when i Get soaked .. About every other year it gets a good tear down cleaning .. Nice thing with the winchesters there easy to disassemble .. Great video i always liked watching your videos.. I use kroil oil at times to clean my bore you ever hear of it? Is great stuff ..
My dad taught me well then ..hoppys no 9# for the barrel and a cleaning patch with 2-3 drops of oil. never putting the oil bottle to the gun..1960s-70s dad's, the greatest...
good video,,,but,,,,I still clean the chamber seperately. Had an extractor break one time and the chamber was so crudded up the poor extractor did not stand a chance,,and I will still apply a small amount of oil on bearing surfaces and gun grease where there is wear marks from metal to metal contact
I just purchased my first rifle ever. Its a savage 99 .308. You are dropping a lot of knowledge I was shocked to see all the videos you have up you're the man. Did I miss it what was nylon brush for? There is pretty orange rust starting the corners of the inside of the action of the 99 how should I tackle this??I'm from MI and I'm going to use this for whitetail I definitely don't want to over oil it like you say . Hope u see this thanks!
Thank you sir for taking the time to make a video sharing your expert gun knowledge. Many of us respect and enjoy what you are sharing with us. Many thanks!
Thank you for the videos sir, I love them, please make more. I've watched all of your videos and everything you say makes sense. I am one of the guys who has always been taught to oil the crap out of guns. And I've heard of people that run them dry but never was it explained in a way that made sense. Also, your how to shoot videos have helped me tremendously.
Wonderful video - I almost fell out of my chair @29:58 when you mentioned the lost art of "stewardship" - seems so many have forgotten this nowadays - Thanks for sharing!
I bought a 1954 production model 94 recently for dirt cheap and it was in rough shape but still had a bright bore with sharp rifling so I had to tear it down, remove all the rust and re-blue a lot of the metal, it also had a scope mount on it that an amateur must have installed because they drilled through into the bottom corner of the bolt track so I got rid of the scope mount and filled the holes. I refinished the wood with a boiled linseed oil finish because the varnish was peeling, chipping and the wood was looking rough, when I reassembled I wiped every single part down with a lightly oiled rag just to protect the metal from future rust, I would’ve never done this with a gun that was in as good of shape as your .32WS but I think it turned out very well and it looks a million times better than it did when I bought it, thank you for sharing your knowledge, it helped me to get excess oil out of the wrist of my project rifles stock and I hope one day I can give that rifle to one of my kids and explain to them the importance of proper maintenance
@@GunBlue490 it was! I like bringing new life to old beat up guns even if they’re not worth anything to a collector, it means a lot to me that I can look at it and say “yeah, I did that”
Thank you so much for sharing so much invaluable information. You have cleared up so much misinformation and made me much less apprehensive about tackling cleaning and working on my firearms.
I got a 99 off an auction. It was a closet queen. It has some surface freckles but the bore is pristine. The well of the magazine was a mess inside. I need to do the wood because I just know it will be beautiful like yours. I took it all apart and gave it a thorough cleaning. On the 99’s, like you have shown, turn it upside down or you will wish you did!
Great video. This man is an expert, and I'm not, but I do wonder about using an air compressor to blow out the action. I say this because compressors hold moisture. When I empty the tank on my home compressor in the summer water/moisture comes out. In the winter if I use it and drain the tank (I always drain the tank after each use) it will spit out tiny ice balls. It's moisture. Dirty air is also a factor. I guess a filter can be put on the compressor to make this safer.
When I speak of using an air compressor, it's a rare event that is done only to certain guns with concealed, inaccessible actions, and is something I'd do on an as-needed basis. On a practical level, I've done it three times in my life, and only to three different guns that I had acquired previously used, that had been abused with love or the lack thereof. As to the moisture issue, the amount of moisture that a tank collects is directly related to the ambient humidity, and it occurs throughout the year, to one degree or another. My dad sold pneumatic fastening systems when nail guns were first introduced, and he constantly preached the importance of keeping the compressor dry, for the best performance and the life of the gun. Every day, you say? Nay! Perhaps every 20 minutes on a sultry summer's day! Even during dry days, compressors concentrate ambient moisture very swiftly, but it does pool at the bottom of the tank, until the air is saturated, at which point it will emit from the hose. Moisture or ice coming from the hose is a sign of having an extremely saturated system. Water laden air will not compress and will also cause your regulator to kick in constantly, because you have effectively reduced the volume of your tank. As soon as it starts to over-cycle, and long before you notice water, open the pet cock while the tank is under full pressure, and allow it to run until absolutely no moisture comes out. A moisture collector is one of those things that a regular compressor user should always have. Going back to the use of a compressor for evacuating crud from a gun like a Model 94 or 99 Savage, I repeat that only 15 pounds psi should be used, and of course, it must be dry air.
Thanks for the info, now I have a better understanding of the copper buildup in the barrel. It seems all the bench rest and F class shooters I shoot with are overly concerned about it. Every 3rd or 4th outing I break out the Remington X to clean out the copper.
Actually, they are perpetually reconditioning their barrels, just when they have settled down, and are missing out on the best accuracy their guns are capable of.
@@GunBlue490 that's funny, my friend shoot 22 matches with Anschutz rifle and scores 10's and X all the time. He never cleans his rifle. He decided to clean it and his score was all over the place. He stop cleaning again, now it shoots 10's and X's. Thanks
@@GunBlue490 Agreed, I target shoot offhand with a 10/22 (custom) and an 1894 Marlin. Both shoot the X ring out with minimal cleaning. Far more important was matching the ammunition to the gun. SK Match for the 10/22 and .432 softer cast bullets for the Marlin. Thanks for the video, confirmed my light oiling, probably even less now!
Great video and love the old lever action, I have to admit I am guilty of over oiling at times, I do return to remove excess. One question is if you have recrowned to achieve the level of accuracy? It looks as though it has a 45 degree angle, or is that just the lighting? As a lifetime shooter, reloader and former advanced marksmanship instructor at ft benning I value greatly all the information you share.
What do you think of me using my G-grandfather’s 1912 vintage Savage 1899 (straight comb) in .30-30 on Roosevelt elk short of @100 yards? It’ll be loaded with a Barnes 168 gn. TSX solid copper and 35.5 gns. of Leverevolution, which produces mv’s @2300fps. and @2200 fps @100 yards. I needed a brush gun for Oregon timber hunting and was given this gun from my mom. I replaced the buckhorn with a period authentic Marble peep sight (I’m a vet and used the peep on the 16,) and won’t ever install a scope. I love your content and your yearnings to hunt the West.
Wow, why haven't I heard about no oil in action before?! I feel so inadequate/uneducated(maybe shamed)as a gun owner now. I need some serious wiping down of my guns. Awesome educational video. Loved your 1911, dry firing, video by the way.
I truly enjoy your videos, I myself being a certified master mechanic I counldn't agree with you more on this excessive lubrication. But my question to you today is how do you recommend breaking in a new rifle or a new pistol. I have heard fifty ways of doing this, I personally have just cleaned out the barrel before ever shooting them.I always run a patch through any gun before leaving to go target shooting or hunting. I would certainly appreciate your view on this question. I enjoy your videos they really teach a lot of good common sense. There is really a lot of misinformation on you tube, but if people would watch your videos they would learn the right way. God bless you!
Thank you for your comments. "Breaking in" has a number of different meanings to different folks, but it boils down to two; the barrel and the action. Much has been made of both and there's no reason for it. Modern barrels are exceptionally smooth inside, and are normally formed over a mandrel, rather than cut. Whatever burrs there used to be in days gone by are simply not there anymore. Even then, guilding metal on bullets is many times softer than barrel steel, and has little, if any, influence on the dressing down of burrs. Most of the methods folks use to "break in" barrels amount to attempts to lap the barrel smoother. As a mechanic, you may be familiar with lapping, whereby a soft lead slug is poured around a rod while it's inside the barrel. Lapping compound (oil and silica) is introduced into the bore and its forced back and forth, making an interior that's uniform in diameter, and smooth. But there's a very strong caveat to this process that any barrel maker is aware of. It MUST be done before the barrel is cut to final length, before crowning, and before chambering, because the process produces a bell at each end, where the slug is reversed. It cannot be done after the barrel is completed. While these homegrown techniques using JB bore paste and firing may make the bore smoother and possibly easier to clean, and perhaps more accurate temporarily, the fact remains that the barrel interior will suffer opening and wear at the leade (head of the rifling in front of chamber) and before the crown. I desire none of the sort. It's an acceleration of wear, plain and simple. And then there's the process of using sets of abrasive bullets that are designed to lap a barrel. Again, I would not recommend this, as it's exactly the same process as slug lapping, which cannot be done without wearing the ends of the barrel and chamber. The fact of the matter is that I've never done any of these things to any of my many rifles that I have owned over 50+ years, and most have been extremely accurate. Watch my videos regarding the cleaning of rifles, and on how not to clean, where I detail the importance of barrel conditioning, which is the correct approach As to handguns, simple conditioning with jacketed bullets before lead bullets are shot will fill any imperfections and create a smoother barrel surface that will be less attractive to leading, if the shooting of lead bullets is desired. Actions of guns require no break-in. Most actions are pretty smooth, and have very highly polished surfaces. Rougher ones with high spots will simply get smoother over time as the high spots wear down. Simply shoot a gun without any lubrication, and the parts will marry and become smoother, just as one sets new brake pads. Lubrication will simply make the mating take longer. The only way a handgun action will break in is to simply shoot it. As a factory trained armorer, I was taught how to dress revolver actions for highly tuned smoothness, as one would get from the S&W custom shop, but it's not something the average person should attempt. There's far more to it than honing parts, and can get a person into some serious damage without knowing how the parts interact. The S&W repair shop does most of its work on guns that have been "tuned", which costs the owners lots of cash, to fix what wasn't broken. Autos have no such issues. If a slide feels gritty, simply rack it back and forth until the burrs go away and the slide is married to frame. Shooting it will accomplish the same thing.
GunBlue490 Thanks for the advice, it makes great sense to me on everything you have said. I'm just going to keep things simple like you advise everyone in your videos. Thanks again and have a great day!
I always advocate the use of a lightly oiled cloth on guns to protect them in humid environments. However, more oil does not protect better. Florida has no greater humidity than New Hampshire or any other state east of the Mississippi. Fingerprints leave rust because of the salt in perspiration, which varies greatly among individuals. Folks perspire more in hot environments, whether it's 100 degrees with 98% humidity in Bangor, Maine on July 4th or the same conditions in Mexico. My dad lived in Florida for many years and kept his blued guns in perfect condition with a light wipedown with an oiled rag. FYI, personal chemistry varies, so some folks have exceptionally salty and corrosive fingerprints regardless of atmospheric conditions which requires almost constant care to prevent rust, but it's not about using more oil; just attention.
I appreciate the time you took, but I wish you had spent 85% of the video on a more common lever gun, rather than the 1937 Savage that not many people have. I got a little happy when the ol' dirty 30 94 came up, but there's not a lot there either due to design. A proper gun cleaning video this was.
Another great video sharing your aquired knowledge. But I also noticed in your 39A cleaning video you also applied a VERY thin film of GREASE to the areas of metal to metal contact to allow smooth action, thus avoiding OIL. Granted, these two rifles the actions are not that accessible.
I am a new gun owner and my first purchase was a new Henry lever .22. After spending much time searching, This is the most comprehensive and best video that explains how and why to best clean your lever gun. I may use the bore snake more but I certainly will listen to the warning about over oiling. I will have to educate myself by watching all of your vids. AS for the dopes who want instant gratification, you can only hope to fit 55yrs of gun exp in a 56 min video! Thanks for doing your best. One question, if I clean my rifle while wearing latex exam gloves to avoid the oils from the hand, will that help or is it just overkill?
Some folks can certainly experience sensitivity to any cleaning solvents, and anyone can develop skin rashes, at the least. At worse, cancer is always a threat with long exposure. Personally, I believe that protecting the skin from unnecessary contact is very wise. This is one of my principle reasons for using little solvent, applied spparingly, and avoiding unnecessary skin contact. USP mineral oil is 100% safe for wiping your guns, even if consumed, which is unscented baby oil, among other things.
Haha..i could give two craps about my skin, after 20 yrs as a FF in NJ, a little solvent and oil wont bother me. i am more concerned with the nice Henry stock and the other parts. Just trying to keep oil from skin and fingerprints off of it before it goes into the safe. Thanks again for the valuable info.
+truck guy fiftynine For that, be sure to get a heated wand... a golden rod to maintain dryness. Safes are notorious rusting vessels without them, due to condensation.
Hey GunBlue490, very good job on imparting how-to savvy and common sense, which is not so common these daysI have a few savage 99 rotary mags…love them so much. Curious as to best person with ole time experience for having my rotary magazine retimed as I am having issues with ejecting the last round. Doubt there are many in the Green Mountain State that work on the beautiful savage 99 rotary magazine rifles. No way I would tackle this job…wisdom…Thanks for your sharing.
Shooting jacketed bullets through a bore will eventually cause build up of copper which will cause accuracy to deteriorate. Depending upon caliber and pressure will determine the amount of build up. When using a more aggressive bore solvent to clean out the bulk of copper and finish off with light oil will not only keep the barrel burnished but will preserve accuracy and barrel life.
No, it absolutely will not. Since 1964, I've fired many thousands of "eventualies" with high power rifles in calibers ranging from 22 Hornet through 458 Winchester Magnum, including thousands of high velocity 220 Swift and 22-250, and it NEVER eventually built any accuracy deterioration. Jacketed bullets do not build up materials in a bore, unless the gun is over heated with aggressive non-stop, abusive firing. Even then, any copper fouling sweeps out thoroughly with less than 10 passes of a bronze bore brush. Barrels do not burnish, and no oil made does anything to change their character or finish. The only thing a bore does "eventually" is wear out from heat, erosion, and friction, depending on its rapidity of fire, abusive cleaning methods, and especially harsh copper dissolving solvents.
Thanks for your most informative videos. I just bought a 1892 Chiappa Lever Trapper and have trouble chambering a round. I was going to oil it but now will not. Does the action just need to be broken in as the bullet gets jammed at the barrel?
My dad and his dad hated anything yo do with guns and hunting. Suoer smart guys, great family men, but . . . This is the surrogate figure, avuncular, friendly, well informed, thoroughly professional, a seasoned professional with great grasp of context. The counterpart of Paul Harrell. Best content on this media. Thanks for investing the time!
My dad bought my brothers air rifles for Christmas but had a whinge when my brother later bought a. 22. I guess it wasn't Christmas. 😂
Thank you for a great video! You just reinforced what my dad taught me when I was 9 years old (70 years ago) about cleaning a gun. I've been doing it the same way ever since. I have several lever actions, some pumps, a few bolt actions and about 10 different types of handguns, most are older or about the same age as me and I have had several all my life and will pass them to kids and grandkids.🙂
Thank you sir.
I inherited my fathers old model 94 and was going to pass it on to my son. I wanted a good video for him to watch about maintenance for it. I really appreciate your comments about oil in the action, and protecting the crown. So many shooters these days are just sheep that follow whatever craze is running the internet.
I have a few lever guns and love them all. A little too much it seems. Thank you for your willingness to impart your wisdom and knowledge which you have obviously collected over many years . Great channel. Thank you .
Wow. Now that’s incredible cleaning instructions. Well done indeed. Okay, so he bumped the stock on vice a little. Geez, give him a break. That shows guns aren’t so fragile to great extent. This man = A+
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Alejandro Xzavier instablaster =)
@Carl Oakley i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Carl Oakley it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my ass !
@Alejandro Xzavier happy to help xD
Man, I just went out into my garage and used an air compressor and a tshirt to clean excess oil from my 94! I also cleaned the barrel for the first time the RIGHT way, thanks to you! I also put it away upside down for a while to hopefully pull any light oil away from the stock to where I can get at it in a few weeks or days. Very soon my 30-06 Herters bolt action will get a new set of eyes on it as well!
THANK YOU for taking the time to share when clearly you already knew what to do.
Stewardship is more than a word with you.
Thank you so much for this advice. Too much oil means added dust and grit. My father was a mechanical engineer for over 40 years dealing with machinery. He said by far, the reason for malfunction of machinery was dirt and grime. So keep the oil to a minimum.
the reassuring certainty of your instructions left me with the confidence that the information presented was without flaw, also, kudos for the calm and colorful way of teaching, it kept my interest from start to finish, even though I've accumulated the same wisdom over the years. thank you for the lesson in how to teach. keep up the good work!
My oldest brother, who was an MP in the Army at the same time that you were, lives in the desert southwest. He keeps his actions dry because of all of the dust storms that roll through the area. Living here in the Midwest we have a lot of humidity so I do keep a light film on the inside of the barrel and across the action just to prevent the rust. I keep a large bag of dehumidifier clay in the vault and put it in the oven to dry it out once a year. So far so good (4 years). Peace be with you.
Patman Crowley
Exactly. We New Englanders have the same humidity conditions. You might someday save some space and effort by installing a golden rod. Mine has been keeping my guns rust free since 1987, and on pennies a month.
I am so glad that I am not the only one who believes in keeping the rod clean! Thanks and Peace be with you.
I just bought the 99 savage. Sir you have my attention. This wood grain firearm addition is new to me. I also bought a Henry h001 .22 with a beautiful dark walnut finish I don’t want to ruin it thank you
I'm performing maintenance on my grandfathers Savage 99 chambered in .308 now trying to restore it close to when he bought it new in the 1950s. Thank you so much for this video, it helped so much!
I could watch and listen to this guy all day.
Same
If I wanted to be driven crazy by a Boston accent, yes. But that rarely if ever happens.
Same even my wife is familiar with this voice lol
@@RobertTheTexan2 New Hampshire accent, not Boston - there's a difference.
Hello! Just wanted to tell you that I really enjoy the style of your instructional videos. Reminds me of the some old timers I've known through out my life time of 60+ years. These men that I refer to were very knowledgeable about fire arms of all kinds. Thanks for what you are doing. Dave
Drafted in 1966, was taught to use a shaving brush with a couple drops of gun oil to oil my guns. Still using that same brush after 54 years. Thanks, enjoyed your video. Like lever rifles, have a 99, 94, 336 c and a Sears & Roebuck ( 336 ) so naturally I'll read/watch any thing pertaining to them. Thanks again, enjoy all your videos.
I learned a lot, and all of it makes perfect sense. I oiled guns, but now, following your expertise, I have a much better understanding of what needs to be done. I also own Volquartsens, and they do not want oil in the actions, they make a point of "no oil". Their machining is extremely tight, so hence no oil. Thanks, good video!
Wow it's almost like you made this video to cover everything I've always done wrong while cleaning- I excessively worry about damaging my rifles and if there's a hole or crevice I make it my mission to get oil into it. You sir just saved me some hard earned money- although you may have hurt the economy as I won't be purchasing oil in 45 gallon containers anymore. I really appreciate your videos- thanks for posting and sharing your knowledge.
LOL Thank you.
@@GunBlue490 if you don’t mind me asking what is the exact process you used to remove the oil from your savage? I was gifted one but in 243 and the wood is saturated it deserves some love. Thanks for your hard work and wisdom sir and God bless you and your family.
Thanks for sharing some great advice that I can apply to my Model 92 & 94 carbines. Glad you reinforced the concept of a dry action.
I acquired a Sears 'Ted Williams' Model 100 30-30 just recently. As you know, it was made for Sears by Winchester as a replica 94. After firing it (ow!) a few times I watched several Winchester 94 disassembly/reassembly videos I was able to take it apart and put it back together. Though all the inner workings are not exactly the same, they were close enough to where I could do it with a little intuitive thinking. It wasn't that hard for those that want to try. And yes, it did fire afterwards.:)
You are a very knowledgeable person and I appreciate your videos. Using a dry toothbrush followed by compressed air to blow out the action has been a big help.
This video was an incredibly huge help for me. I was handed down a 54 300 savage that is in near mint condition and I was really getting confused as to how to properly clean it as everyone seems to have a different idea as to how to do it. I now know EXACTLY what to do. Thank you very much for this vid.
I have enjoyed many of your videos and learned a lot of valuable information from each of them, watching you locking the barrel of your rifle in your bench vice gave me an idea you might like. Your wooden inserts are a great idea but as most machinists know the best way to hold round stock is a v block. By increasing their thickness to 3/4” plywood and cutting a horizontal v grove in each side at the height of the vice’s jaw, with a 1/8 pitch so liquid will roll out of the end you choose, will lock the barrel in place with a lot less force. You could even make a double grove for lever actions with a tubular magazine like a Winchester.
Ive watched this video like 5 times. I love the relentless mocking of over oiling! Love your videos GunBlue I've learned so much from them! I have long been a proponent of keeping firearms dry.
Thank you for another excellent video. Your common sense regarding firearms is refreshing. Though I admit, in the past, to being an over-luber (mainly concerned with rust) I stored my guns barrel down so any runoff was a non issue.
I have watched this video at least 3 times and enjoy the info as much as the first time viewing. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. May God bless you.
Old lever fanatic here....love your though technique training.
Enjoying your channel big time!!!
Happy shooting ....
God Bless.
Just bought a 94 in S&W 32, says on barrel. Nice outside but very filthy inside of the action. Know I learned how to clean it. What a Great Video!! Thank You and God Bless!
Wow!! thank you so much for this video!! I never knew the action should be dry!! I have been over oiling my guns! This was a real eye opener! I love my model 94 and will be taking much better care of it from now on!!
My solution to over-oiling? Thin layers of high quality grease on strategic metal-on-metal areas.
Grease stays where you put it, though light oil application is sometimes necessary.
Love them 94's....
I have old 94 classic carbine w/ Octagon barrel, excellent shooter, 30/30.
Fantastic woods rifle.
Very good presentation. The muzzle damage issue was explained well. This is mysterious to those who are trying understand the effect of crown irregularities within the barrel. Your explanation - that it is what happens *outside* the barrel in terms of aerodynamic pressure - clarifies this issue. Thank you.
That is one gorgeous Savage. Also, as one whose introduction to firearms was via military surplus rifles which were similarly laden with years of crud, I love hearing stories of fine firearms restored to prime condition with some elbow grease and TLC.
Hello Sir, I've been addicted to your videos as i saw them for the first time. THANKS A LOT for such a great teaching from your part. Greetengs from Spain
Zeljko Novosel
Thank you for watching. Be sure to subscribe!
Thank you sooo much. I only have 1 lever gun and I have only taken it out 2 times. I was cleaning it wrong! Now I know to turn it upside down to keep the crap out of the action. And not worry about all of the excess oil. Great video and thank you for sharing your expertise.
I clean my 99-300 right side up but pack the magazine well with terry towel to keep cleaning fluids and possibly lube from getting down in the works...especially with a brass mag spool. Nicely informative video...thanks.
Real gentleman. Excelent tutorial .
Ditto
I just came into possession of my Grandfathers 1953 Savage Model 99. I have the original box of ammo Only four rounds were missing/fired. It has been a closet rifle for about maybe 25 years? I came across this cleaning video today. Thanks. I was not sure about cleaning the action. Now I do. Thanks. I have enjoyed your other videos for revolvers.
Sir, hoping this post finds you well.
I just discovered your channel and was so impressed I was compelled to subscribe.
We seem to have much in common. Although I must admit I didn't learn anything new, it's wonderful to get validation from such an expert. Good common sense and respectful information. You never talk down or seek to impress. You should be proud. Well done Sir.
RJM
You are no liar sir, and I must give you high praise for that. Until viewing this video, and then re-watching it as I cleaned my own piece, i will be honest and say I somewhat doubted your technique. I can tell you that opinion has made an abrupt change! I used to clean guns exclusively with patches, I would use dozens back and forth, back and forth through the bore, until they came out spotless. Needless to say, this process took a very long time, and expended a lot of materials. Then, in my ignorance, i would oil the action of my model 70, every time! It was just what I was taught I guess. Their was even one time, I wiped the whole gun down with ballistol (the only time I made the mistake of using that awful smelling product) thinking I was doing it a favor, again wrong. I also, am now a supporter of not only cleaning in a vice, but upside down, which feels wrong, and right at the same time, as everyone else in fireams world would grimice if they saw a gun in a vice, but my how sturdy it is when set in with wooded calls the same as you have. In conclusion, after doing a heafty dose of shooting with my brand new 1873 lever action (which i did not bother “breaking in” by the way) i cleaned the gun with your exact method, and expelled only 7 patches and most likely 5 times less hoppe’s. At the conclusion of my cleaning, which took little time, i was left with a gun that was cleaner than I had ever gotten one before. Thank you sir for all that you share, you lessons have been an absolute gem for a young shooter like myself.
G'day ol' mate,
I enjoy your videos, always got great info. You said you've been shooting 55 years, I've been shooting for 50 years and from day one we were held responsible for the cleanliness of the rifles. I agree 100% on the no oil in the action. When I clean my rifles I use what we've termed for years as the "grey cloth". This is simply a cloth onto which graphic powder was lightly spread, rubbed in and shaken. A final rub over the moving parts just adds the smallest amount of dry lubricant to contacting surfaces, but not enough to cause a mess. Excess graphite will get messy so the amount dusted onto the cloth is minimal.
I shoot black powder in my Sharps (45-120) exclusively, so after each session I totally strip, wash, scrub, clean, scrub and clean again to ensure every trace of residue is removed (I love my Sharps), it is still in virtually brand new condition, purchased back in the early '80s when Sharps Arms Inc reopened their factory.
I was a little disappointed that you didn't strip the '94, even for a "have a look at this" session on it, but hey, ya can't have everything. Agreed, not necessary to totally strip and clean if using nitro powder.
Down here in Oz we're not looked after like you guys over there and I'm still waiting for my Marlin CB (95) in 45-70 to turn up, been waitin' months and still got a months to wait. I'll be using BP for noise and effect with this baby mostly, but nitro for hunting so total strip down & clean will be of necessity to ensure it is kept in top condition. As you iterated, the 95 is a lot easier to strip than the 94.
Again, thanks for the video, greatly appreciated and enjoyed.
Cheers from downunder mate :)
+Pilot McBride As for stripping the 94, it's flawed in that respect. The lever link screw is heavily staked in place on both sides. While disassembly is certainly possible, as I've done on numbers of occasions for service, it's highly advised to leave it alone, as the screw can only be restaked once or twice before it will no longer have a good purchase. Once it begins loosening, the gun will become utterly worthless. The forestock and buttstock may be removed, but I don't encourage that, simply because again, this model tends to lose integrity once such parts are manipulated too often. One the other hand, this model came out with smokeless powder from its inception and doesn't require a full breakdown for washing. As long as it's not flooded with oil that can certainly make a mess, all will be fine for many years.
Thank you for watching!
GunBlue490 Ah, the penny drops, thank you for this explanation, greatly appreciated.
I love that Savage, one very beautiful rifle. Thank you for a very informative video. I learned quite a bunch of gun info. The pre '64 '94 Winchester is a prize as well. Cherish them both.
high gunblue it's Carl, WATCHING "How to Clean Lever Guns" now i question my old practices. I am 67 years old and i learned from a older man ,my mentor how to do it. Clean with Hopps then run a path with RIG rust inhibiting grease through the boar, take a rag with RIG and wipe down the barrel and steel and finished. As Fred would say " rig stays where u put it". When i got older i fell for the new mindset' Sweets 7.62 approach, pulling the copper out. And i did. long soaks, and patches until no more blue.After a range session disapointment, the groups were all over the place. i felt i burned out the barrel After watching your video's, leaving the copper to fill the low spots i can understand. My old deer rifle before i went to the 270 was all over the place after i cleaned it. Would love to here from you. U are the only one i trust on the Net.
Carl Lovendale
Sweets is extremely aggressive and should never be left in a bore to soak. I can only recommend that you watch my video on how to clan a rifle professionally. A simple cleaning is all any rifle requires. Use grease (Rig is just grease) with discretion, and be sure to wipe all traces out before firing.
Most excellente!! For those still wanting the large traces of copper out there is a fun way to remove it. After you get done shooting your hunting loads, fire off some reduced loads (1200 to 1400 fps) with copper bullets and it takes it right out. Good offhand shooting practice to boot. I have seen excessive copper come out when cleaning with a patch where it isn't just a smear over the low spots but small copper hair like strands that come loose( not the brush bristles or case shavings either). This gets it out. Trail boss powder is the hot ticket.
Great tip on 'inverting' the long gun to clean the barrel so any excess oil will not accumulate in the base of the receiver !
Gerat video! I have a 1948 Md 94 32 special that is brand like new, maybe a box of rounds through it, maybe. It was my Dad's and I just keep it in the safe.
Thank you, I'm very pleased with your clear and common sense presentation.
Nice vintage Redfield sight on that Savage 300 !
Amen! Looks good on a lovely rifle.❤
this is of great interest to me beyond the excellent instruction because i acquired a similar 99 about 25 years ago in 300 savage with a serial number indicating ww 2 vintage. it appeared to be in unblued steel and without a single bit of rust, possibly in stainless, but unlikely in our research. the iron sites were gone, and no stith mounts in the shop's gunsmith parts bin. we finally made a deal after a couple of weeks and deep in my safe it resides, unshot by me--not unusual in my last few years of collecting long ago now....
Thank you for your long experience, deep insights and great instructional delivery. As a beginner, I have learned much from your videos.
I agree with your cleaning i always said to much oil collects dirt.. I use tetra gun grease.. With a qtip and then wipe it off only reason ive ever done that was to keep my winchester 94 from starting any rust.. Tetra has something good in it Becouse over the last 15 year's I've never had any rust form of course i always dry out good when i Get soaked .. About every other year it gets a good tear down cleaning .. Nice thing with the winchesters there easy to disassemble .. Great video i always liked watching your videos.. I use kroil oil at times to clean my bore you ever hear of it? Is great stuff ..
My dad taught me well then ..hoppys no 9# for the barrel and a cleaning patch with 2-3 drops of oil. never putting the oil bottle to the gun..1960s-70s dad's, the greatest...
I am just about to purchase my first lever gun and this is really great to see.
good video,,,but,,,,I still clean the chamber seperately. Had an extractor break one time and the chamber was so crudded up the poor extractor did not stand a chance,,and I will still apply a small amount of oil on bearing surfaces and gun grease where there is wear marks from metal to metal contact
I just purchased my first rifle ever. Its a savage 99 .308. You are dropping a lot of knowledge I was shocked to see all the videos you have up you're the man. Did I miss it what was nylon brush for? There is pretty orange rust starting the corners of the inside of the action of the 99 how should I tackle this??I'm from MI and I'm going to use this for whitetail I definitely don't want to over oil it like you say . Hope u see this thanks!
Thank you I have over oiled my 30-30 Model 94 for years. Thanks for the education!!!!
Thank you sir for taking the time to make a video sharing your expert gun knowledge. Many of us respect and enjoy what you are sharing with us. Many thanks!
FANTASTIC information! Just got a lever action rifle...thank-you!
So glad I watched this. I’ve purchased an old Miroku Ml22. I would’ve oiled in places not to. Thanks heaps. PS. Not much on the tube about these.
Great education! Confirms my knowledge of oils vs silicone products in guns.
Thank you for the videos sir, I love them, please make more. I've watched all of your videos and everything you say makes sense. I am one of the guys who has always been taught to oil the crap out of guns. And I've heard of people that run them dry but never was it explained in a way that made sense. Also, your how to shoot videos have helped me tremendously.
Thank you for this video! I am a little too liberal with oil, have been cutting way back and seeing better results.
Wonderful video - I almost fell out of my chair @29:58 when you mentioned the lost art of "stewardship" - seems so many have forgotten this nowadays - Thanks for sharing!
this guy is a wealth of knowledge..he makes great vids
Great, no-nonsense video as usual! Keep them coming...
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. Very helpful.
I bought a 1954 production model 94 recently for dirt cheap and it was in rough shape but still had a bright bore with sharp rifling so I had to tear it down, remove all the rust and re-blue a lot of the metal, it also had a scope mount on it that an amateur must have installed because they drilled through into the bottom corner of the bolt track so I got rid of the scope mount and filled the holes. I refinished the wood with a boiled linseed oil finish because the varnish was peeling, chipping and the wood was looking rough, when I reassembled I wiped every single part down with a lightly oiled rag just to protect the metal from future rust, I would’ve never done this with a gun that was in as good of shape as your .32WS but I think it turned out very well and it looks a million times better than it did when I bought it, thank you for sharing your knowledge, it helped me to get excess oil out of the wrist of my project rifles stock and I hope one day I can give that rifle to one of my kids and explain to them the importance of proper maintenance
Sounds like a rewarding job!
@@GunBlue490 it was! I like bringing new life to old beat up guns even if they’re not worth anything to a collector, it means a lot to me that I can look at it and say “yeah, I did that”
Thank you so much for sharing so much invaluable information. You have cleared up so much misinformation and made me much less apprehensive about tackling cleaning and working on my firearms.
I got a 99 off an auction. It was a closet queen. It has some surface freckles but the bore is pristine. The well of the magazine was a mess inside. I need to do the wood because I just know it will be beautiful like yours. I took it all apart and gave it a thorough cleaning. On the 99’s, like you have shown, turn it upside down or you will wish you did!
Be not afraid! Love this guy.
This makes me want to go and clean my guns for no reason haha. Thank you
Great video. This man is an expert, and I'm not, but I do wonder about using an air compressor to blow out the action. I say this because compressors hold moisture. When I empty the tank on my home compressor in the summer water/moisture comes out. In the winter if I use it and drain the tank (I always drain the tank after each use) it will spit out tiny ice balls. It's moisture. Dirty air is also a factor. I guess a filter can be put on the compressor to make this safer.
When I speak of using an air compressor, it's a rare event that is done only to certain guns with concealed, inaccessible actions, and is something I'd do on an as-needed basis. On a practical level, I've done it three times in my life, and only to three different guns that I had acquired previously used, that had been abused with love or the lack thereof. As to the moisture issue, the amount of moisture that a tank collects is directly related to the ambient humidity, and it occurs throughout the year, to one degree or another. My dad sold pneumatic fastening systems when nail guns were first introduced, and he constantly preached the importance of keeping the compressor dry, for the best performance and the life of the gun. Every day, you say? Nay! Perhaps every 20 minutes on a sultry summer's day! Even during dry days, compressors concentrate ambient moisture very swiftly, but it does pool at the bottom of the tank, until the air is saturated, at which point it will emit from the hose. Moisture or ice coming from the hose is a sign of having an extremely saturated system. Water laden air will not compress and will also cause your regulator to kick in constantly, because you have effectively reduced the volume of your tank. As soon as it starts to over-cycle, and long before you notice water, open the pet cock while the tank is under full pressure, and allow it to run until absolutely no moisture comes out. A moisture collector is one of those things that a regular compressor user should always have. Going back to the use of a compressor for evacuating crud from a gun like a Model 94 or 99 Savage, I repeat that only 15 pounds psi should be used, and of course, it must be dry air.
Thanks for the info, now I have a better understanding of the copper buildup in the barrel. It seems all the bench rest and F class shooters I shoot with are overly concerned about it. Every 3rd or 4th outing I break out the Remington X to clean out the copper.
Actually, they are perpetually reconditioning their barrels, just when they have settled down, and are missing out on the best accuracy their guns are capable of.
@@GunBlue490 that's funny, my friend shoot 22 matches with Anschutz rifle and scores 10's and X all the time. He never cleans his rifle. He decided to clean it and his score was all over the place. He stop cleaning again, now it shoots 10's and X's. Thanks
@@GunBlue490 Agreed, I target shoot offhand with a 10/22 (custom) and an 1894 Marlin. Both shoot the X ring out with minimal cleaning. Far more important was matching the ammunition to the gun. SK Match for the 10/22 and .432 softer cast bullets for the Marlin. Thanks for the video, confirmed my light oiling, probably even less now!
did you know your the best gun guy on u tube!!! thank you TONY
i have yet to get a pine cone in any gun and im 65 live in montana been hunting since i was 9. ..lol. i like your humor. great video thank you SIR
Great video, thanks for passing this stuff down - bout to start cleaning my marlin 336 .35 after seeing your video bud.
Was especially interested in the Winchester Model 94 information, but it was at the end of your video and I almost didn't watch that much. Thanks.
Great video and love the old lever action, I have to admit I am guilty of over oiling at times, I do return to remove excess. One question is if you have recrowned to achieve the level of accuracy? It looks as though it has a 45 degree angle, or is that just the lighting? As a lifetime shooter, reloader and former advanced marksmanship instructor at ft benning I value greatly all the information you share.
Your model '94 is a beautiful piece of kit, indeed!
How this name @MrCervuselaphus connected with my comments i have no idea would You Tube do something about it please.
Very nice Savage 99. I have one similar in .358 win with a rotary magazine and round counter.
I really enjoyed this video and look forward to viewing your other uploads. Thank you.
What do you think of me using my G-grandfather’s 1912 vintage Savage 1899 (straight comb) in .30-30 on Roosevelt elk short of @100 yards? It’ll be loaded with a Barnes 168 gn. TSX solid copper and 35.5 gns. of Leverevolution, which produces mv’s @2300fps. and @2200 fps @100 yards.
I needed a brush gun for Oregon timber hunting and was given this gun from my mom. I replaced the buckhorn with a period authentic Marble peep sight (I’m a vet and used the peep on the 16,) and won’t ever install a scope. I love your content and your yearnings to hunt the West.
Thank you for sharing your expertise and giving the advice you have.
Wow, why haven't I heard about no oil in action before?! I feel so inadequate/uneducated(maybe shamed)as a gun owner now. I need some serious wiping down of my guns. Awesome educational video. Loved your 1911, dry firing, video by the way.
I truly enjoy your videos, I myself being a certified master mechanic I counldn't agree with you more on this excessive lubrication. But my question to you today is how do you recommend breaking in a new rifle or a new pistol. I have heard fifty ways of doing this, I personally have just cleaned out the barrel before ever shooting them.I always run a patch through any gun before leaving to go target shooting or hunting. I would certainly appreciate your view on this question.
I enjoy your videos they really teach a lot of good common sense. There is really a lot of misinformation on you tube, but if people would watch your videos they would learn the right way. God bless you!
Thank you for your comments. "Breaking in" has a number of different meanings to different folks, but it boils down to two; the barrel and the action. Much has been made of both and there's no reason for it. Modern barrels are exceptionally smooth inside, and are normally formed over a mandrel, rather than cut. Whatever burrs there used to be in days gone by are simply not there anymore. Even then, guilding metal on bullets is many times softer than barrel steel, and has little, if any, influence on the dressing down of burrs. Most of the methods folks use to "break in" barrels amount to attempts to lap the barrel smoother. As a mechanic, you may be familiar with lapping, whereby a soft lead slug is poured around a rod while it's inside the barrel. Lapping compound (oil and silica) is introduced into the bore and its forced back and forth, making an interior that's uniform in diameter, and smooth. But there's a very strong caveat to this process that any barrel maker is aware of. It MUST be done before the barrel is cut to final length, before crowning, and before chambering, because the process produces a bell at each end, where the slug is reversed. It cannot be done after the barrel is completed.
While these homegrown techniques using JB bore paste and firing may make the bore smoother and possibly easier to clean, and perhaps more accurate temporarily, the fact remains that the barrel interior will suffer opening and wear at the leade (head of the rifling in front of chamber) and before the crown. I desire none of the sort. It's an acceleration of wear, plain and simple. And then there's the process of using sets of abrasive bullets that are designed to lap a barrel. Again, I would not recommend this, as it's exactly the same process as slug lapping, which cannot be done without wearing the ends of the barrel and chamber.
The fact of the matter is that I've never done any of these things to any of my many rifles that I have owned over 50+ years, and most have been extremely accurate. Watch my videos regarding the cleaning of rifles, and on how not to clean, where I detail the importance of barrel conditioning, which is the correct approach
As to handguns, simple conditioning with jacketed bullets before lead bullets are shot will fill any imperfections and create a smoother barrel surface that will be less attractive to leading, if the shooting of lead bullets is desired.
Actions of guns require no break-in. Most actions are pretty smooth, and have very highly polished surfaces. Rougher ones with high spots will simply get smoother over time as the high spots wear down. Simply shoot a gun without any lubrication, and the parts will marry and become smoother, just as one sets new brake pads. Lubrication will simply make the mating take longer. The only way a handgun action will break in is to simply shoot it.
As a factory trained armorer, I was taught how to dress revolver actions for highly tuned smoothness, as one would get from the S&W custom shop, but it's not something the average person should attempt. There's far more to it than honing parts, and can get a person into some serious damage without knowing how the parts interact. The S&W repair shop does most of its work on guns that have been "tuned", which costs the owners lots of cash, to fix what wasn't broken. Autos have no such issues. If a slide feels gritty, simply rack it back and forth until the burrs go away and the slide is married to frame. Shooting it will accomplish the same thing.
GunBlue490 Thanks for the advice, it makes great sense to me on everything you have said. I'm just going to keep things simple like you advise everyone in your videos. Thanks again and have a great day!
Good video, but sometimes the exteriors need oil. In Florida you can leave a rusted in thumbprint on a gun in a heart beat if it isn't oiled.
I always advocate the use of a lightly oiled cloth on guns to protect them in humid environments. However, more oil does not protect better. Florida has no greater humidity than New Hampshire or any other state east of the Mississippi. Fingerprints leave rust because of the salt in perspiration, which varies greatly among individuals. Folks perspire more in hot environments, whether it's 100 degrees with 98% humidity in Bangor, Maine on July 4th or the same conditions in Mexico. My dad lived in Florida for many years and kept his blued guns in perfect condition with a light wipedown with an oiled rag. FYI, personal chemistry varies, so some folks have exceptionally salty and corrosive fingerprints regardless of atmospheric conditions which requires almost constant care to prevent rust, but it's not about using more oil; just attention.
Great Video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I appreciate the time you took, but I wish you had spent 85% of the video on a more common lever gun, rather than the 1937 Savage that not many people have. I got a little happy when the ol' dirty 30 94 came up, but there's not a lot there either due to design. A proper gun cleaning video this was.
The oil running back into the stock is the reason I've always stored my guns muzzle down in the gun cabinet.
Great channel. I wish I would have found it sooner.
Another great video sharing your aquired knowledge. But I also noticed in your 39A cleaning video you also applied a VERY thin film of GREASE to the areas of metal to metal contact to allow smooth action, thus avoiding OIL. Granted, these two rifles the actions are not that accessible.
Thanks for passing on your knowledge much appreciated great grattitude!
Thank you sir! You are certainly a rare breed.
I always enjoy your videos. Good information and detailed information.
I am a new gun owner and my first purchase was a new Henry lever .22. After spending much time searching, This is the most comprehensive and best video that explains how and why to best clean your lever gun. I may use the bore snake more but I certainly will listen to the warning about over oiling. I will have to educate myself by watching all of your vids. AS for the dopes who want instant gratification, you can only hope to fit 55yrs of gun exp in a 56 min video! Thanks for doing your best. One question, if I clean my rifle while wearing latex exam gloves to avoid the oils from the hand, will that help or is it just overkill?
Some folks can certainly experience sensitivity to any cleaning solvents, and anyone can develop skin rashes, at the least. At worse, cancer is always a threat with long exposure. Personally, I believe that protecting the skin from unnecessary contact is very wise. This is one of my principle reasons for using little solvent, applied spparingly, and avoiding unnecessary skin contact. USP mineral oil is 100% safe for wiping your guns, even if consumed, which is unscented baby oil, among other things.
Haha..i could give two craps about my skin, after 20 yrs as a FF in NJ, a little solvent and oil wont bother me. i am more concerned with the nice Henry stock and the other parts. Just trying to keep oil from skin and fingerprints off of it before it goes into the safe. Thanks again for the valuable info.
+truck guy fiftynine For that, be sure to get a heated wand... a golden rod to maintain dryness. Safes are notorious rusting vessels without them, due to condensation.
Thank you for ur helpful advice. I def will be watching and learning from all your videos. Then try and pass it all down to my 11yr old boy.
So much knowledge! Very informative.
I have a Model 99 308,Have had it for years my dad had this gun for years before me.
Hey GunBlue490, very good job on imparting how-to savvy and common sense, which is not so common these daysI have a few savage 99 rotary mags…love them so much. Curious as to best person with ole time experience for having my rotary magazine retimed as I am having issues with ejecting the last round. Doubt there are many in the Green Mountain State that work on the beautiful savage 99 rotary magazine rifles. No way I would tackle this job…wisdom…Thanks for your sharing.
Shooting jacketed bullets through a bore will eventually cause build up of copper which will cause accuracy to deteriorate. Depending upon caliber and pressure will determine the amount of build up. When using a more aggressive bore solvent to clean out the bulk of copper and finish off with light oil will not only keep the barrel burnished but will preserve accuracy and barrel life.
No, it absolutely will not. Since 1964, I've fired many thousands of "eventualies" with high power rifles in calibers ranging from 22 Hornet through 458 Winchester Magnum, including thousands of high velocity 220 Swift and 22-250, and it NEVER eventually built any accuracy deterioration. Jacketed bullets do not build up materials in a bore, unless the gun is over heated with aggressive non-stop, abusive firing. Even then, any copper fouling sweeps out thoroughly with less than 10 passes of a bronze bore brush. Barrels do not burnish, and no oil made does anything to change their character or finish. The only thing a bore does "eventually" is wear out from heat, erosion, and friction, depending on its rapidity of fire, abusive cleaning methods, and especially harsh copper dissolving solvents.
Thanks for your most informative videos. I just bought a 1892 Chiappa Lever Trapper and have trouble chambering a round. I was going to oil it but now will not. Does the action just need to be broken in as the bullet gets jammed at the barrel?
Man, you made me laugh so much and I learned a lot! Thank you. Gotta love cowboy guns!