How To Replace F85 BMW X5M Intake Boot & CCV
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
- How to replace the intake boot and crankcase ventilation hose on F85 BMW X5M.
00:00 How to Remove Air Intake
03:50 How To Replace Intake Boot
06:00 How to Replace Crankcase Ventilation Hose CCV
Commonly associated symptoms are rough idle, sluggish performance, whistling or whooshing noise. Common codes are 102901 102902 20E120 20E121
In this video I show you how to remove the air intake, how to replace the intake boot, and how to replace the crankcase ventilation hose or CCV hose.
I’m not a mechanic. Perform work at your own risk.
2016 bmw x5m 2017 bmw x5m 2018 bmw x5m
Thanks need to do this on mine.
I would definitely recommend doing so by 60k miles. It can be difficult to tell when they actually do break. You’ll get some conflicting codes. I wasn’t even sure if that was the issue when I decided to change these components. I just gambled that it may have something to do with the codes. Only after I took everything off did I realize both sides had failures even though there were no codes related to the other bank. The M feels great again after changing these parts out though.
@@ModestlyMinted Mine is definitely over due. The mechanic said that the left hose needs to be replaced because it is leaking. I will do both hoses and the boot. Dealer is going to charge a lot so will be doing it myself. I ordered the parts.
Have you got any advice on how to rotate the hose to where the tab is when hose bridge is in the way? I am not sure how to move the bridge, looks like you did. I removed the Torx on the driver's side but it seems pretty unmovable, don't want to break anything. Are there other screws I need to remove? I can't get hoses off on both left and right sides because the bridge is blocking it. I am a relative newbie at this. Thanks!
If by “the bridge” you are referring to that black piece on top then iirc there are 4 screws that need removed. Then you can just push it out of your way to give you more room. Be careful when removing the screws closest to the firewall because it’s a tight fit and they’re easy to drop. If you look around the 7 minute mark you can see I have an empty oil bottle wedged between there to keep it out of my way when I was replacing the CCV hoses. You can also kind of see some of the other stuff I removed to get more room to work.
@@ModestlyMinted ah ok I didn't see screws near firewall. Thanks!
Any advice on how to get the passenger side Torx under the hose in? There is no room with the complete part and I dropped screw once (rescued it). I was able to get driver side in by reaching though that isn't an option with both connected. This is the last major thing the rest should be easy.. Do i need a magnetic Torx bit and a swivel?
@@possenus I can’t remember for sure, but I think I used either a swivel ratchet or a torx key(like an allen key, but torx heads) to get it started. I also had a step ladder and stood with one foot on that and another on the structural brace in the engine bay so I wouldn’t have to reach much. Also never tighten the other bolts down fully until all bolts are in and started. Make sure they’re in there enough that they won’t back out, but they need to be loose enough that you have some play in the bridge to get everything aligned.
@@ModestlyMinted Thanks. ordered some Torx Allen wrenches. can never have too many tools.