Hey man so glad to hear! Yes that caulk I was using has a pretty quick setup time so I painted it after about 20 minutes or so. I have seen where some people let it completely dry but I haven’t had as good a luck with that. Once painted I remove the tape, even when it’s not 100% cured. Hope this helps but let me know if you have more questions! 👍🏻
Cool thanks! I really needed that info. Im a trim carpenter and im trying to get better at doing my own painting, or at least be able to harp on my painter more effectively. 🤠
i know im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I somehow forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Matteo Justin I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Yep , I'm trying this as I just taped all my crown mounding and the paint bled through everywhere. Not I have to tape my walls and ceiling to paint my mounding that I originally didn't need to do
Thanks!! I learned that from my old carpenter boss. I have found that the pro painters give me quite a bit a grief for it but it works great for a DIYer like me 😂
I do not see it mentioned anywhere in the comments, but wouldnt this same procedure wok with base moulding where you get small gaps every so often? Thanks for the video.
Advice from a pro.. paint & calk your skirting & architraves first, if you using full gloss enamel let it dry then give overpaint on the wall a quick sand, but be as careful as you can.. as acrylic paint may not stick to the wall. It’s easer to cut into architraves (trim) with acrylic than oil gloss. I usually free hand my cutting in, but I’m 70 now & finding it a bit hard to see, so using the masking tape more now.
You know that’s a really good question. I’ve always done this trick with preprimed trim so one coat usually does it. You should still be able to remove the tape after the second coat. Maybe have a knife handy in case you need to cut the tape away in some spots. Other option would be to retape after the first coat but that’s kind of a pain.
Nice video. Just wondering why I've seen so many videos of American houses with heavy textured walls. Is there a reason for this? I understand it with older houses but I've seen alot of newer builds with it it also. Don't take this personal but it's quite dated to have textured walls where I'm from. I can't understand the reason for them on new walls?
That is a really good question and I don’t know honestly. Some houses have it intentionally to hide imperfections but you see it a lot it apartments that get beat up and painted every year. In our case it’s about 6 layers of paint all done with a thick nap roller so it created that texture over time. Where are you from? Thanks for watching!
@@RLLWoodworks hey thanks for reply! Yeah I can definitely see why it would be good on rough walls as it would hide the imperfections quite alot, but it was more puzzling why I've seen it used on brand new houses in the States. I'm from UK and here the councils use it in Social rented housing for similar reasons to you guys. They actually use something that's hated even more here called woodchip wallpaper? I'm not sure if you use it in the states but they use it here to hide bad plaster work and it's notoriously hard to remove :) And ah sorry didn't mean to sound cheeky when I said about it being dated. I didn't realise it was just caused by the roller :-) definitely is more durable than a flat wall that's for sure!.
Wow that wood chip wallpaper sounds interesting and I’m sure it’s a bear to remove! It’s interesting how different techniques are used in different parts of the world.
it is because the drywall finisher is too lazy to take the time for a level 5 smooth finish. Dated? Lazy, more like. The texture hides a lot of slopping work.
Its pretty ubiquitous here in Arizona. Stucco walls are the norm, and the wall texturing is the prevailing style. Its not laziness in this case, the drywallers have to blow on a textured coat, and it's particularly challenging to get a texture match if you have to do patches. I've found taping to be practically useless on these textures. It's pretty frustrating, a little bit like popcorn ceilings, which used to be popular.
I did this but when I pulled the tape off it peeled some of the wall paint off. I taped it first, then I caulked it and painted immediately. I peeled the tape off before it dried and still peeled the paint off. What did I do wrong?
Oh no!! So sorry to hear this. I have only had this happen once and it was on a ceiling where the paint was applied directly over the joint compound (spackle) without a primer. Might also have to do with the old paint the was applied like if it was over a satin or gloss sheen. Hope that makes sense? 3M makes a “gentle” tape that you could try. So sorry to hear this I hope you can touch it up and it will look okay.
Not you... the previous painter didn’t prep that wall well enough before painting. Previous paint wasn’t adhered well enough. It’s happened to me several times and I know they had painted over drywall dust that wasn’t wiped down well enough
You watched this video a painter would never do it this way too slow and not enough caulk in the seam to allow for structural movement that will happen so you will be redoing it next year
Thanks for weighing in Bill! I was hoping to hear from a professional painter on this method because I learned it from a carpenter. I agree it would be too slow to do on a large scale but it is holding up well at least in our home. Thanks again for your input!
The problem with shooting such a small bead is it leaves far tooo little material to compensate for any movement a little bigger joint concave will be impossible to detect but will last for decades more.( it will move) but all in all not bad video . BTW I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years( we love to go to paint prep job’s absolutely the easiest caulk jobs possible.
Man I just spent so long looking for some answers you have in here. Great video. So just to clarify, you're painting the caulk while it's still wet?
Hey man so glad to hear! Yes that caulk I was using has a pretty quick setup time so I painted it after about 20 minutes or so. I have seen where some people let it completely dry but I haven’t had as good a luck with that. Once painted I remove the tape, even when it’s not 100% cured. Hope this helps but let me know if you have more questions! 👍🏻
Cool thanks! I really needed that info. Im a trim carpenter and im trying to get better at doing my own painting, or at least be able to harp on my painter more effectively. 🤠
i know im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I somehow forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Matteo Justin I really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Matteo Justin It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account!
"A really small hole at the tip of your caulk" Priceless!
This was hugely helpful when I was caulking some picture frame moulding I just installed in my dining room. Thanks so much!
Very nice! Love that profile sticker tip!
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate your support!
2 minutes after seeing this video, I tried it and it worked! You got me out of a big jam by posting this video. THANKS!
That’s awesome!! I’m so glad to hear that.
Oh my gosh that tape trick for crown molding is genius thank you
So glad to hear!! Enjoy your beautiful trim work.
Yep , I'm trying this as I just taped all my crown mounding and the paint bled through everywhere. Not I have to tape my walls and ceiling to paint my mounding that I originally didn't need to do
Thank you! So many videos tell you to paint the wall after caulking, but my walls are already painted! This technique should do a great job, thanks :)
Awesome! I hope this technique works well for you.
Loved that wax paper profiling tip! Thank you!
Thanks! Comes in handy and beats tearing little pieces of tape trying to create it myself :)
That just upped my game substantially! Thnx for sharing!
So happy to hear and you’re welcome!! You doing crown, baseboards, wainscoting, casings, all of the above?
Super helpful for this DIYer, especially knowing which caulk you used. Thanks.
So great to hear and that this was helpful!! Are you doing crown, baseboards, wainscoting, all of the above?
@@RLLWoodworks Doing crown for now. Baseboards are likely in my future. :-)
Sounds awesome!! I love trim carpentry. Not very good at it but love doing it and the outcome. Enjoy!
I have never seen this tip. Great idea! I usually have to cut in by hand because I never have good results with tape! Thanks for sharing
Thanks!! I learned that from my old carpenter boss. I have found that the pro painters give me quite a bit a grief for it but it works great for a DIYer like me 😂
Small hole at the tip of my caulk. Got it.
Are you going to do one on cutting crown molding? There are a lot of videos but it is tricky. Thx
I hadn’t considered that but I will try to make one on my next crown project.
Really helpful tip! Love those clean lines.
Great tip, that peal was so satisfying, lol
Thanks so much for watching! Glad it was helpful. Nothing better than the peal 😁
Thanks for your strategy it was neat
You’re welcome thanks for watching!!
4:06 and 6:12 how did you get the molding to look so flush. It looks like it's an 1/8 to a 1/16 off in the first part. Is that just paint?
Just some good caulking and paint does wonders!
Absolutely brilliant!
Thanks!! Hope this helps!
I do not see it mentioned anywhere in the comments, but wouldnt this same procedure wok with base moulding where you get small gaps every so often? Thanks for the video.
For sure!
Advice from a pro.. paint & calk your skirting & architraves first, if you using full gloss enamel let it dry then give overpaint on the wall a quick sand, but be as careful as you can.. as acrylic paint may not stick to the wall. It’s easer to cut into architraves (trim) with acrylic than oil gloss. I usually free hand my cutting in, but I’m 70 now & finding it a bit hard to see, so using the masking tape more now.
Thanks for the tips! That makes a lot of sense and I will try it.
I dont get what you are saying but I am not a pro.
@@Charlie9165 Basically paint your trims first.. acrylic paint is easier to cut in with.. save yourself a lot of work.
@@7colliemac Thanks for explaining collemac.. Appreciated
So you caulk after tape, then paint over caulk while caulk is still whet right?
Small hole at the tip of the caulk, got it! 😂
Sorry, I had to.. Great video!
Haha I know. So many jokes in this one for sure. Thanks for watching!
Great tips.. thanks! How about if two coats are needed before removing the tape?
You know that’s a really good question. I’ve always done this trick with preprimed trim so one coat usually does it. You should still be able to remove the tape after the second coat. Maybe have a knife handy in case you need to cut the tape away in some spots. Other option would be to retape after the first coat but that’s kind of a pain.
I heard elsewhere you could use some hot water on the tape after everything dries as well.
Great video - great painting tips 👍
Thanks so much! Really appreciate you watching!
how long do you have to wait to paint after you apply the caulk?
I paint pretty much right away when using fast dry caulk
I like that trim combination. Is the bottom one a picture rail?
Thanks so much! It’s actually base cap. About 2.5 inches under the crown. I recently finished our first floor but need to do the upstairs still.
@@RLLWoodworks great thanks for the info
You’re welcome! Let me know if you do this or have any questions. Good luck!
Thank you!!!
Excellent! Thank you
Thanks so much! Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
@@RLLWoodworks I’m always remodeling my house so I’ll let you know! Thanks
You came here to hear 1:48
Nice video. Just wondering why I've seen so many videos of American houses with heavy textured walls. Is there a reason for this? I understand it with older houses but I've seen alot of newer builds with it it also. Don't take this personal but it's quite dated to have textured walls where I'm from. I can't understand the reason for them on new walls?
That is a really good question and I don’t know honestly. Some houses have it intentionally to hide imperfections but you see it a lot it apartments that get beat up and painted every year. In our case it’s about 6 layers of paint all done with a thick nap roller so it created that texture over time. Where are you from? Thanks for watching!
@@RLLWoodworks hey thanks for reply!
Yeah I can definitely see why it would be good on rough walls as it would hide the imperfections quite alot, but it was more puzzling why I've seen it used on brand new houses in the States. I'm from UK and here the councils use it in Social rented housing for similar reasons to you guys. They actually use something that's hated even more here called woodchip wallpaper? I'm not sure if you use it in the states but they use it here to hide bad plaster work and it's notoriously hard to remove :)
And ah sorry didn't mean to sound cheeky when I said about it being dated. I didn't realise it was just caused by the roller :-) definitely is more durable than a flat wall that's for sure!.
Wow that wood chip wallpaper sounds interesting and I’m sure it’s a bear to remove! It’s interesting how different techniques are used in different parts of the world.
it is because the drywall finisher is too lazy to take the time for a level 5 smooth finish. Dated? Lazy, more like. The texture hides a lot of slopping work.
Its pretty ubiquitous here in Arizona. Stucco walls are the norm, and the wall texturing is the prevailing style. Its not laziness in this case, the drywallers have to blow on a textured coat, and it's particularly challenging to get a texture match if you have to do patches.
I've found taping to be practically useless on these textures. It's pretty frustrating, a little bit like popcorn ceilings, which used to be popular.
I like a small hole on the tip of my caulk too lol
1:47 huh.... interesting. I was born like that so
I did this but when I pulled the tape off it peeled some of the wall paint off. I taped it first, then I caulked it and painted immediately. I peeled the tape off before it dried and still peeled the paint off. What did I do wrong?
Oh no!! So sorry to hear this. I have only had this happen once and it was on a ceiling where the paint was applied directly over the joint compound (spackle) without a primer. Might also have to do with the old paint the was applied like if it was over a satin or gloss sheen. Hope that makes sense? 3M makes a “gentle” tape that you could try. So sorry to hear this I hope you can touch it up and it will look okay.
Not you... the previous painter didn’t prep that wall well enough before painting. Previous paint wasn’t adhered well enough. It’s happened to me several times and I know they had painted over drywall dust that wasn’t wiped down well enough
You watched this video a painter would never do it this way too slow and not enough caulk in the seam to allow for structural movement that will happen so you will be redoing it next year
Thanks for weighing in Bill! I was hoping to hear from a professional painter on this method because I learned it from a carpenter. I agree it would be too slow to do on a large scale but it is holding up well at least in our home. Thanks again for your input!
@@RLLWoodworks No problem hope I didn’t sound like some no it all .
Using this
Enjoy my friend!! Hope it works well for you too!
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THANK YOU!
I like to do it when it's a little bit wet too. Lol
LOL it looks like you have absolutely no calk in that joint at the end!
Why in the world are you not using big stretch? Alex stretch is not the right tool for 99% of caulking jobs. Big Stretch is the only way to go.
Tape is bad..
The problem with shooting such a small bead is it leaves far tooo little material to compensate for any movement a little bigger joint concave will be impossible to detect but will last for decades more.( it will move) but all in all not bad video . BTW I have been a professional caulker for over 40 years( we love to go to paint prep job’s absolutely the easiest caulk jobs possible.
Great tip thanks for watching and commenting!!