Be care buddy with those small wire wheels the wires separate from the head ive had wires end up in my arm they are very fine your van coming along nicely thanks for sharing
Hi. Nice project. I restored a VW Autovilla in 2012. Then a Gen 1 Pajero. In both cases I found the best paint removal was a baby grinder and wire cup brush. It doesn't scuff the metal and does a great job of paint removal. I am now going to tackle my 1978 double cab.
cant wait to see it painted! also watch out for flash rust as it can appear even within a few hours, although its only surface at first it can/will develop and eat away your panels.
Nice work! The most effective way I found to use paint stripper was to cover it with plastic wrap so it doesn't dry too quickly and let it work overnight. I was using the citrus one, it's not very powerful and was not eating away the plastic wrap.
Funny you should mention Paint Society in your video. I recently watched him apply epoxy/urethane with a foam roller. I can see this been done on the buses long panels, but using a gun on the nose seems a lot easier. However, I do like the fact that roll on doesn't spray the bus and everything else within a mile radius. Thanks for the video!!
Spraying is quite messy but it provides the best finish from my experience. If you check out Brandon's Bus UA-cam channel you'll see that he uses Eastwood Epoxy primer with a roller in some spots and it seems to work well!
I am a spray painter of 30+ years. If you are going to use paint stripper, run over the panel with 24 - 36 grit paper, to cut through the surface of the paint, and help the paint striiper get to the metal, other wise it will only work 1 layer at a time. But scratching the surface, it will head for the metal, and start removing paint from the metal, which is what you want it to do.
@@Vangabonders scotch brite will not scratch the paint, which is why you need 24 -36 grit, that will scratch through the paint, hopefully down to the metal. Once applied, the paint remover will soak through and travel along the path of least resistance, which is along the metal, removing paint at base layer.
If not every single line is perfect, meh, no biggie. All the rust gone and prevented in the future is worth every minute, hour & month of work. This old gal is getting so much love. She'll be living on, providing so much fun back, for decades more.
Great job bro, like the comments about getting into a crash. 😂 I've been slowly working on my 1972 bus which is in really great shape but got a couple small holes in my floor panel. Someone fiberglassed over them but it wore out so I was thinking about getting some aluminum sheeting and just glueing it over with window sealer, the black tar Stuff that the pros use. But how hard does the panel bond get? Plus I would like to replace my floor panels in the center. You know like you're s is all cut out and you can see the braces behind the sliding door. So I really want to put aluminum sheeting instead of the steel because it would be lighter and I've got the type 4 engine that weighs 350 lbs. Do you think the panel bond would work? because I wouldn't be able to weld it.
Not a fan of POR15, I have seen it fail on numerous occasions. Epoxy Primer is good, but it actually provides no corrosion protection in and of itself other than it is a fairly hard coating. Self-Etching Primer is what you want to use over bare metal, because Self-Etching Primer has ZINC in it, and zinc is a sacrificial metal, so if any corrosion is going to start it will go after the zinc in the self-etching primer before it goes after the steel below it. Also self-etching primer "Etches" into the steel below it, making a very sure bond between itself and the steel, allowing no water molecules to get between it and the steel. POR15 I would never use, it will eventually fail. You cannot paint over rust, you have to remove it or it will continue.
The problems you might run into: - the glue you used for the front panel can melt because of sun exposure or crack because of cold weather. - in case of an accident the front panel might come off the bus. - if anyone in the future will try to remove rust, paint and bondo with chemicals, that person will have a nasty surprise (the front panel detaching from the bus).
Hey man I got a question or if anyone else heres knows. Do they sell panels for the top half of the front, the post? where they the little lip sticks out by the door , starting from the bottom of the windshield to the to top
Man I learn SO much watching your videos...
Great video as always. The fight against the rust monster is never ending.
My hope is that it will end soon! At least for tangy lol
Adhesion!!!!!!!!! I don't even own a bus anymore, but I watch every video you two put out. I feel like I know you guys so well 😂
Awesome as usual. Can’t wait the next installment.
starting to come together nicely , very cool
Im excited about it!
Awesome - love your attention to detail
Lookin' good my friend!!!!!!
Thanks for all the tips and tricks, I want to start the resto of my 70 adventurewagen soon
Get to it! Adventurewagens are awesome
Be care buddy with those small wire wheels the wires separate from the head ive had wires end up in my arm they are very fine your van coming along nicely thanks for sharing
I'm pulling wire wheel wires out of my skin all the time! It sucks lol
Hi. Nice project. I restored a VW Autovilla in 2012. Then a Gen 1 Pajero. In both cases I found the best paint removal was a baby grinder and wire cup brush. It doesn't scuff the metal and does a great job of paint removal.
I am now going to tackle my 1978 double cab.
Im only here for that sweet seat action at 10:03
You know I gotta save the best for last
great as always, thanks!
cant wait to see it painted! also watch out for flash rust as it can appear even within a few hours, although its only surface at first it can/will develop and eat away your panels.
I run a dehumidifier in my garage 24/7 to avoid flash rusting but I still always use OSPHO before sanding and final prep
Nice work! The most effective way I found to use paint stripper was to cover it with plastic wrap so it doesn't dry too quickly and let it work overnight. I was using the citrus one, it's not very powerful and was not eating away the plastic wrap.
Good times. Try citrus strip It has a nice citrus orange scent and wash off with water
Is it strong enough for VW paint though 😅
@@Vangabonders yes. I used it on Vw paint
You mask like a pro.
Funny you should mention Paint Society in your video. I recently watched him apply epoxy/urethane with a foam roller. I can see this been done on the buses long panels, but using a gun on the nose seems a lot easier. However, I do like the fact that roll on doesn't spray the bus and everything else within a mile radius. Thanks for the video!!
Spraying is quite messy but it provides the best finish from my experience. If you check out Brandon's Bus UA-cam channel you'll see that he uses Eastwood Epoxy primer with a roller in some spots and it seems to work well!
Not only dead to you.... dead to us!!!
Will look good painted
Looks good to me .
I am a spray painter of 30+ years. If you are going to use paint stripper, run over the panel with 24 - 36 grit paper, to cut through the surface of the paint, and help the paint striiper get to the metal, other wise it will only work 1 layer at a time. But scratching the surface, it will head for the metal, and start removing paint from the metal, which is what you want it to do.
I’m going to give that a shot! I tried using it on a panel that I scuffed with scotch brite but maybe the heavy grit is the key! Thanks for the advice
@@Vangabonders scotch brite will not scratch the paint, which is why you need 24 -36 grit, that will scratch through the paint, hopefully down to the metal. Once applied, the paint remover will soak through and travel along the path of least resistance, which is along the metal, removing paint at base layer.
If not every single line is perfect, meh, no biggie. All the rust gone and prevented in the future is worth every minute, hour & month of work. This old gal is getting so much love. She'll be living on, providing so much fun back, for decades more.
Strong work! Your passion for adhesion promotion is admirable. #thealgorithmneversleeps #sk8ordie
Lo felisito
Gracias
Great job bro, like the comments about getting into a crash. 😂 I've been slowly working on my 1972 bus which is in really great shape but got a couple small holes in my floor panel. Someone fiberglassed over them but it wore out so I was thinking about getting some aluminum sheeting and just glueing it over with window sealer, the black tar Stuff that the pros use. But how hard does the panel bond get? Plus I would like to replace my floor panels in the center. You know like you're s is all cut out and you can see the braces behind the sliding door. So I really want to put aluminum sheeting instead of the steel because it would be lighter and I've got the type 4 engine that weighs 350 lbs. Do you think the panel bond would work? because I wouldn't be able to weld it.
Not a fan of POR15, I have seen it fail on numerous occasions. Epoxy Primer is good, but it actually provides no corrosion protection in and of itself other than it is a fairly hard coating. Self-Etching Primer is what you want to use over bare metal, because Self-Etching Primer has ZINC in it, and zinc is a sacrificial metal, so if any corrosion is going to start it will go after the zinc in the self-etching primer before it goes after the steel below it. Also self-etching primer "Etches" into the steel below it, making a very sure bond between itself and the steel, allowing no water molecules to get between it and the steel. POR15 I would never use, it will eventually fail. You cannot paint over rust, you have to remove it or it will continue.
Where are you guys at ? MIA !
The problems you might run into:
- the glue you used for the front panel can melt because of sun exposure or crack because of cold weather.
- in case of an accident the front panel might come off the bus.
- if anyone in the future will try to remove rust, paint and bondo with chemicals, that person will have a nasty surprise (the front panel detaching from the bus).
Anything
別人搞T1，你搞T2～
I'm definitely more of a T2 guy myself
Hey man I got a question or if anyone else heres knows. Do they sell panels for the top half of the front, the post? where they the little lip sticks out by the door , starting from the bottom of the windshield to the to top
🤗👍👌⭐