Good info Joe, thanks! Personally, I work alone and don't have anyone to pump the brakes. Don't like the back-n-forth to put a piece of wood into position, then remove, then repeat. So I just went to a vacuum system with a flap jack compressor. Works great!
I've béen using this line for a few years now and love it. I lifted the body off the frame and replaced all the rear lines on my 97 CVPI with this and used all the factory holders etc. Other than color, you'd think it was original, and so easy to do! Highly recommend this brake line!!
I've recently DIY replaced the full hydraulic lines for two of my vehicles. The first one, a 2004 Cavalier, I just used AutoZone steel line. But, the big issue was sourcing the right fittings. Although, both cars are domestic and 15+ years old, it seems finding the correct fittings in stock at AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's, and NAPA was a bit of a challenge. But, I got the job banged out successfully after all the fits and starts. The next vehicle was a 1993 Chevy 1500. To avoid the fitting issue, I just ordered everything from Federal Hill Trading Company. While ordering from them, I figured I'd try the Nickel/copper line. And yes, the copper/nickel line was a dream to work with. But, the fact I had all the correct end fittings before starting the job was the big improvement in task efficiency.
I did one side of my cousin's truck. The other side had a compression fitting which I told him should be replaced and he argued it was good. Back then it was a steel line I had to flare. Wish I had SUR&R back then. Nice fix Joe, thanks!
Try the Mastercool flaring tool. It's a breeze to use and you can use it on the car. I did the entire brake lines for a '97 Geo Prizm with Stainless Steel no less.
Never compression fittings, brakes generate much higher pressure than home plumbing........ I love the ni copp lines used them on my classic mopars. When my rear line went on my daily driver ramcharger, I replaced with ni copp front to rear. Europeans madate that brake lines can't be made of material that's rusts. What does that say about our car companies, this is good example to people what not to do their brake systems.
There are compression fittings for applications up to 600bar pressure. Three times as much as in the brake system. But still a better idea to use flare connections, since compression fittings need to be installed correctly to be "safe".
Try not cranking down on the second piece (the cone) so hard. When I first started with the hydraulic tool I would crank it down hard and they would look messed up, especially copper lines. But once I got the hang of how much pressure to squeeze the second die they come out perfectly every time
As you well know, when you have the correct tools and materials the job becomes so much more enjoyable to perform. Your customer can get back on the road knowing you did it right.
Also check out Cal-Van Tools . They make some great flaring tools which are an improvement over the " horse shoe " type . They also have a number of specialty tools . When I bleed my brakes I remove the bleeders and put a THIN coat of Never Seize on the threads . When replacing lines , I coat the threads - even if it is unlikely to be taken apart . You never know .
Mistakes have been made. You do not want to put a fitting far away from a point where the brake lines are secured. It will start vibrating and the line will break. Working on older Citroens I have seen lots of dangerous repairs on hydraulic lines. It is very important to route them properly, so nothing is going to break down the road. I use compression fittings, but only for temporary repairs. Thank you for bringing this important topic in peoples minds and providing helpful tips!
Easy to work with and as an added bonus, virtually rot-free for the life of the car or it's owner. Great info about not using those compression fittings on brake line for those who didn't know. Lastly, you wiped my devilish smirk from watching you flare tube without first placing fitting beforehand because as you and I know, we've all experienced that "aw schif!" moment where we flared the tube before placing fitting on it. 😣
First time I've heard of this line, definitely going to source. Almost 32 years in the trade and still always learning. Great, informative channel, Thanks.
Thanks joe for the video and demonstrating the kit. Been looking around for a decent flairing kit will definitely check it out. Thanks again Artie. 🇺🇸❤️
Owner must be a Scotty Kilmer fan, his way of repair....no bueno...nice fix Joe. Merry Christmas Joe and all viewers. I use a vacuum brake bleeder when no help is around to pump brakes.
Joe, you absolutely HAVE to look at S U R & Rs hydraulic flaring tool! It’s the cats nuts for on the car flaring, even in tight spaces. I still hate doing brake lines but, having that tool makes it more bearable.
Check out Cal-Van Tools . They make several , including the 160 and 161 . The line is clamped and held differently than the horse shoe type . They are reasonably priced . There are You Tube videos also .
an F250, what a surprise. did that same line on my truck 2 weeks ago, step on the brake to bleed them, the line in the front blew, can't win. Ford, built tough, unless it goes through one winter in jersey, then all bets off.
@@JoesAutoElectric nah, not true, i have a 99 grand am GT with the same miles and no rot, its just Ford. they do this on purpose. i think they add extra carbon to the steel so it will rot evenly.
@@JoesAutoElectric so what are you saying Joe, that the DPW drops salt on our roads like its snowing potato chips? :-D still think Ford has an issue with the kind of steel they use.
Wouldn't none magnetic stainless still brake line be a better chose? The double wall flair is the best for this application. Thank you for your upload.
From the sound that brake line makes as you move it around, it's what we call "Kunifer" in the UK. Think the brand name comes from the copper-nickel alloy. We're seeing a lot of soft copper brake line used for repairs over here though, mostly that's all the major factors are stocking, you have to order the good stuff in. Yet I believe in many countries soft copper is deemed not fit for purpose, illegal and/or an inspection fail. Me, I will stick with the Kunifer. It's a little harder to work with but way easier than steel and time has proven it.
@@JoesAutoElectric I had to quit using copper lines back when they started being made in China. They'd split lengthwise very early. So I switched to epoxy coated steel and plain stainless steel. Sure they're harder to work with but actually look more professional (my work compared to my work). The stainless ones probably last as long as copper, assuming the fittings are brass or stainless. I haven't had an epoxy-coated steel one fail yet that I know of. It's good to see that there is a decent copper tubing on the market. I will likely consider it the next time I have to buy brake line tubing.
Fair enough, but I do not use chinesium to fix cars. lol These are certainly high quality line and look professional. They are actually an alloy Nickel copper line
@@JoesAutoElectric I avoid Made in China like the plague. Traditional Chinese products excepted, China (!) for example. I wish everyone did. Just drove by the corpse of Waukesha Engine again. 😣
What is sur&r? It looks like a standard flare tool kit i always use. Liked the video, ive been there getting a line flared and forgot to put the flare nut on. Also those union compressions will fail yearly pa safety inspection
Hi Joe, nice demo on flaring tool, over here in the UK i have personally used cunifer 10 piping from IMI industries for years , never had a problem whith it , the nickel copper pipe you used is probably the same kind of stuff, Biggest problems we encountered were seized in bleed nipples , but I found that a good straight hit or two on the top of the bleeder usually shook them loose, ( if you don't hit em straight they brake off ! ).lol **** ** Not telling you how to do it Joe, just sharing an old mechanics experience ,looks like a nice tree in the background, hope you get chance to take some time off, but I know in your game there's allways a last minute something or other , Best wishes and a Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
Joe we also do a lot of brake line work where I live and I'm always the guy that does them in my shop. I use a hydraulic flaring tool and I love it. Just did the same thing as you did in this video today on a Chevy 3500. Likewise, we see tons of compression fitting repairs come in from other shops. Our policy is we won't repair the vehicle unless the customer agrees that we replace any compression fittings in place. My question for you is have you ever actually seen a failed compression fitting? I can't say that I ever have but I know they are not safe to use. Just wondering if you've ever seen anything.
Thanks for joining us. I do remember a case where the fitting was cross threaded and leaking. He came in to ask us to replace it. I told him the same thing you started. We do not use them. I made a new line and repaired it properly. I know it is not legal here to use them, so that's all I need to never use one.
I have had cars come in with that type line cracked at the flare in the fittings. It work hardens and becomes brittle and can crack.i still use it but with caution
I have yet to see that. I have customer vehicles that I made lines for with this stuff ten plus years ago and no issues. By chance, do you know how they were flared? I would think work hardened they would have been flared with a hydraulic machine?
I honestly don't remember the price of the kit. I have had it for years. Look it up online. I am sure you can buy it on Amazon if not a local parts store.
@@JoesAutoElectric Summit racing has a nice kit that even comes with some steel line so I can practice flaring lol, but it doesn't have that snazzy ratcheting tubing cutter that yours. has. Never thought of copper tubing for brake line repairs. I guess it's true, if you aren't learning you are dying😂
@@JoesAutoElectric The quality of tools these days are not what it was in the 60s or 70s. I've used a set by Imperial in my shop in the 70s and still own it today. It still looks and works as well as it did back then. I can't say the same for anything coming out of auto parts stores today. I've tried them on occasion to find they slip and threads strip easily. You used your set really well, but would've been nice to mention that the rod that tightens the screw is also meant to be used between the tall ears of the thumbscrews to cinch them down on steel line.
Gerald, it isn't copper tubing, it's a nickle copper alloy. It's been used overseas for years. I've used it for at least 15 years and haven't had an issue with it.
One would be a lot further ahead to pit a nail in the good end of the line at the fitting and not let fluid go through than have the compression fitting. Both are old farmers hacks
Man, I’d recommend investing in a hydraulic flaring kit!! I LOVE mine. It does brake line flares, fuel line quick connect, even does the Gm trans quick connect. Couple the SUR&R line with stainless brake line armor and you’ve got brake line porn!
You're awesome Joe, but you're using the WRONG TOOL for the job. That flaring tool is outdated and performs poorly. You want a Cal-Van #160. You will thank me. Merry Christmas.
Looks like someone tried to Scotty Kilmer that brake line. Nice fix man.
Good info Joe, thanks! Personally, I work alone and don't have anyone to pump the brakes. Don't like the back-n-forth to put a piece of wood into position, then remove, then repeat. So I just went to a vacuum system with a flap jack compressor. Works great!
Nice!
Yes Sir , that feeling you get after a perfect Double flare and the fitting sits on the table right next to you ! Been there , Done That
LOL Yes, we have all done it one time or another.
@@JoesAutoElectric Me too! Very good explanation that the compression fittings are not allowed.
I've done it more than once LMAO
Yep nothing worse than doing it right away again because you're so flustered about doing it the first time.
I've béen using this line for a few years now and love it. I lifted the body off the frame and replaced all the rear lines on my 97 CVPI with this and used all the factory holders etc. Other than color, you'd think it was original, and so easy to do! Highly recommend this brake line!!
I've recently DIY replaced the full hydraulic lines for two of my vehicles. The first one, a 2004 Cavalier, I just used AutoZone steel line. But, the big issue was sourcing the right fittings. Although, both cars are domestic and 15+ years old, it seems finding the correct fittings in stock at AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly's, and NAPA was a bit of a challenge. But, I got the job banged out successfully after all the fits and starts.
The next vehicle was a 1993 Chevy 1500. To avoid the fitting issue, I just ordered everything from Federal Hill Trading Company. While ordering from them, I figured I'd try the Nickel/copper line. And yes, the copper/nickel line was a dream to work with. But, the fact I had all the correct end fittings before starting the job was the big improvement in task efficiency.
I did one side of my cousin's truck. The other side had a compression fitting which I told him should be replaced and he argued it was good. Back then it was a steel line I had to flare. Wish I had SUR&R back then. Nice fix Joe, thanks!
Try the Mastercool flaring tool. It's a breeze to use and you can use it on the car. I did the entire brake lines for a '97 Geo Prizm with Stainless Steel no less.
I concur, I have the 72485-prc, awesome kit
I have been using their products for over eight years. Brake lines are easy to flair and bend. I also use the PFT 409 flairing kit
Never compression fittings, brakes generate much higher pressure than home plumbing........ I love the ni copp lines used them on my classic mopars. When my rear line went on my daily driver ramcharger, I replaced with ni copp front to rear. Europeans madate that brake lines can't be made of material that's rusts. What does that say about our car companies, this is good example to people what not to do their brake systems.
There are compression fittings for applications up to 600bar pressure. Three times as much as in the brake system. But still a better idea to use flare connections, since compression fittings need to be installed correctly to be "safe".
Yeah the people who bring me cars shop at home depot/lowes probably they won't find those fittings there lol 😆
That brake line is great to work with as you said . I find with the hydraulic flaring tool the double flares look funny when done but seal just fine.
Try not cranking down on the second piece (the cone) so hard. When I first started with the hydraulic tool I would crank it down hard and they would look messed up, especially copper lines. But once I got the hang of how much pressure to squeeze the second die they come out perfectly every time
Nice job
As you well know, when you have the correct tools and materials the job becomes so much more enjoyable to perform. Your customer can get back on the road knowing you did it right.
We use this stuff in Canada all the time! Great channel
Thanks!!!
@@JoesAutoElectric got my own shop fighting with vehicles that want to go back to the earth because of
of salt n liquid chlorine ! Waubamik auto
Excellent...just great. Thanks!
Great job. What a hack job with compression fittings. Have a merry Christmas.
Love this line been using it for the last 5-6 years now do complete systems awesome stuff
Also check out Cal-Van Tools . They make some great flaring tools which are an improvement over the " horse shoe " type . They also have a number of specialty tools . When I bleed my brakes I remove the bleeders and put a THIN coat of Never Seize on the threads . When replacing lines , I coat the threads - even if it is unlikely to be taken apart . You never know .
Just moved to northern Iowa
From the West Coast. Gotta get one of those kits.
I just put a pic up on my community tab just for you Joe!
Great work on that vehicle.
Hey thank you.
Mistakes have been made. You do not want to put a fitting far away from a point where the brake lines are secured. It will start vibrating and the line will break. Working on older Citroens I have seen lots of dangerous repairs on hydraulic lines. It is very important to route them properly, so nothing is going to break down the road.
I use compression fittings, but only for temporary repairs.
Thank you for bringing this important topic in peoples minds and providing helpful tips!
Easy to work with and as an added bonus, virtually rot-free for the life of the car or it's owner. Great info about not using those compression fittings on brake line for those who didn't know.
Lastly, you wiped my devilish smirk from watching you flare tube without first placing fitting beforehand because as you and I know, we've all experienced that "aw schif!" moment where we flared the tube before placing fitting on it. 😣
I was waiting for this comment lol
First time I've heard of this line, definitely going to source. Almost 32 years in the trade and still always learning. Great, informative channel, Thanks.
Good job bro
Good stuff! 🎄 🇺🇸 👍👍
Thanks joe for the video and demonstrating the kit. Been looking around for a decent flairing kit will definitely check it out. Thanks again Artie. 🇺🇸❤️
Great job Joe. I use the same tool. Works perfect. Thanks for sharing 👍
Owner must be a Scotty Kilmer fan, his way of repair....no bueno...nice fix Joe. Merry Christmas Joe and all viewers. I use a vacuum brake bleeder when no help is around to pump brakes.
Merry Christmas to you too. And yes, vacuum bleeder can work just fine!
👍👍
Joe, you absolutely HAVE to look at S U R & Rs hydraulic flaring tool! It’s the cats nuts for on the car flaring, even in tight spaces. I still hate doing brake lines but, having that tool makes it more bearable.
Check out Cal-Van Tools . They make several , including the 160 and 161 . The line is clamped and held differently than the horse shoe type . They are reasonably priced . There are You Tube videos also .
an F250, what a surprise. did that same line on my truck 2 weeks ago, step on the brake to bleed them, the line in the front blew, can't win. Ford, built tough, unless it goes through one winter in jersey, then all bets off.
Eh, can't blame the truck. All vehicles rot here
@@JoesAutoElectric nah, not true, i have a 99 grand am GT with the same miles and no rot, its just Ford. they do this on purpose. i think they add extra carbon to the steel so it will rot evenly.
Ever see a 3 year old Nissan in Jersey? Or Dodge for that matter? Worse than anything
@@JoesAutoElectric so what are you saying Joe, that the DPW drops salt on our roads like its snowing potato chips? :-D
still think Ford has an issue with the kind of steel they use.
All I'm saying is that in this armpit of the world we live in, I see far worse than Fords...
I know an old timer that uses compression unions all the time. Drives me nuts. Nicop lines are the way to go.
I usually drill out the original fitting wire wheel it guaranteed to fit....
You can, but this kit provides correct fittings. Why wouldn't I put a new one?
@@JoesAutoElectric agreed
Wouldn't none magnetic stainless still brake line be a better chose? The double wall flair is the best for this application. Thank you for your upload.
Stainless is far harder to work with.
From the sound that brake line makes as you move it around, it's what we call "Kunifer" in the UK. Think the brand name comes from the copper-nickel alloy.
We're seeing a lot of soft copper brake line used for repairs over here though, mostly that's all the major factors are stocking, you have to order the good stuff in.
Yet I believe in many countries soft copper is deemed not fit for purpose, illegal and/or an inspection fail.
Me, I will stick with the Kunifer. It's a little harder to work with but way easier than steel and time has proven it.
I work on hydraulic Citroens. Using CuNiFer lines for replacments aswell.
When I flare steel lines, I almost never get to use a vise. Oiling the flare tool and the steel line is the trick. That and a vise-grips.
Understood. And I've been there, but the difference with these are night and day
@@JoesAutoElectric I had to quit using copper lines back when they started being made in China. They'd split lengthwise very early. So I switched to epoxy coated steel and plain stainless steel. Sure they're harder to work with but actually look more professional (my work compared to my work). The stainless ones probably last as long as copper, assuming the fittings are brass or stainless. I haven't had an epoxy-coated steel one fail yet that I know of. It's good to see that there is a decent copper tubing on the market. I will likely consider it the next time I have to buy brake line tubing.
Fair enough, but I do not use chinesium to fix cars. lol These are certainly high quality line and look professional. They are actually an alloy Nickel copper line
@@JoesAutoElectric I avoid Made in China like the plague. Traditional Chinese products excepted, China (!) for example. I wish everyone did. Just drove by the corpse of Waukesha Engine again. 😣
Well, not everyone. Chinese people should buy Made in China. Americans should buy Made in USA.
Yes sir loving the ni/cop line..... What do I do with all the coated line I have laying around?
What is sur&r? It looks like a standard flare tool kit i always use. Liked the video, ive been there getting a line flared and forgot to put the flare nut on. Also those union compressions will fail yearly pa safety inspection
SUR&R is the tubing and fittings I am using. Flare kit is Matco, but yes, all basically the same.
If you get the right tool the coated steel line would be easy as anything. My Mastercool Hydro Press will make any line you could need.
Yes, but I prefer this line for overall. Easier to make bends and don't need the hydraulic tools to do anything with it.
@@JoesAutoElectric Got Ya!!
Hi Joe, nice demo on flaring tool, over here in the UK i have personally used cunifer 10 piping from IMI industries for years , never had a problem whith it , the nickel copper pipe you used is probably the same kind of stuff, Biggest problems we encountered were seized in bleed nipples , but I found that a good straight hit or two on the top of the bleeder usually shook them loose, ( if you don't hit em straight they brake off ! ).lol **** ** Not telling you how to do it Joe, just sharing an old mechanics experience ,looks like a nice tree in the background, hope you get chance to take some time off, but I know in your game there's allways a last minute something or other , Best wishes and a Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
Joe we also do a lot of brake line work where I live and I'm always the guy that does them in my shop. I use a hydraulic flaring tool and I love it. Just did the same thing as you did in this video today on a Chevy 3500. Likewise, we see tons of compression fitting repairs come in from other shops. Our policy is we won't repair the vehicle unless the customer agrees that we replace any compression fittings in place. My question for you is have you ever actually seen a failed compression fitting? I can't say that I ever have but I know they are not safe to use. Just wondering if you've ever seen anything.
Thanks for joining us. I do remember a case where the fitting was cross threaded and leaking. He came in to ask us to replace it. I told him the same thing you started. We do not use them. I made a new line and repaired it properly. I know it is not legal here to use them, so that's all I need to never use one.
What in the hell was that siren going off? 😂
to many "liquid Plumbers" out there mucking things up...! Good repair job Joe!
I have had cars come in with that type line cracked at the flare in the fittings. It work hardens and becomes brittle and can crack.i still use it but with caution
I have yet to see that. I have customer vehicles that I made lines for with this stuff ten plus years ago and no issues. By chance, do you know how they were flared? I would think work hardened they would have been flared with a hydraulic machine?
Ive seen them crack when they arent deburred before making flare
That I can definitely see happening. I always debur the ends first.
How much did that kit set you back?
I honestly don't remember the price of the kit. I have had it for years. Look it up online. I am sure you can buy it on Amazon if not a local parts store.
@@JoesAutoElectric Summit racing has a nice kit that even comes with some steel line so I can practice flaring lol, but it doesn't have that snazzy ratcheting tubing cutter that yours. has. Never thought of copper tubing for brake line repairs. I guess it's true, if you aren't learning you are dying😂
@@JoesAutoElectric The quality of tools these days are not what it was in the 60s or 70s. I've used a set by Imperial in my shop in the 70s and still own it today. It still looks and works as well as it did back then. I can't say the same for anything coming out of auto parts stores today. I've tried them on occasion to find they slip and threads strip easily. You used your set really well, but would've been nice to mention that the rod that tightens the screw is also meant to be used between the tall ears of the thumbscrews to cinch them down on steel line.
Gerald, it isn't copper tubing, it's a nickle copper alloy. It's been used overseas for years. I've used it for at least 15 years and haven't had an issue with it.
Like your videos but you should get some better lighting - very dark.
Noted!
One would be a lot further ahead to pit a nail in the good end of the line at the fitting and not let fluid go through than have the compression fitting. Both are old farmers hacks
Man, I’d recommend investing in a hydraulic flaring kit!! I LOVE mine. It does brake line flares, fuel line quick connect, even does the Gm trans quick connect. Couple the SUR&R line with stainless brake line armor and you’ve got brake line porn!
Does this stuff hold up to the salt and other corrosives as well as 304L stainless?
In my experience it hold sup very well. Remember we are in the salt/rust belt.
@@JoesAutoElectric Yes that is why I was especially interested in your answer. Thank you!
I decline any unsafe repair...
You're awesome Joe, but you're using the WRONG TOOL for the job. That flaring tool is outdated and performs poorly. You want a Cal-Van #160. You will thank me. Merry Christmas.
I'll check it out, but the tool does a nice job. No leaks! lol
My friend got sodomized in court because he had compression fittings on his brake lines.
I really don't need to know
Why wouldn't they replace the fucking line. Rear lines are easy as fuck to replace anyway.
Because people try to take shortcuts. This is why accidents happen...
@@JoesAutoElectric it's literally more work to put in a splice though wtf. 😤😤
100% agree