Troubleshoot: Water Well Pump Overloads Tripping
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- In the event that the motor runs but the overload protector trips here are the things to look out for:
Incorrect Voltage - Check your power source, be sure to check that power is getting through to the system, it is recommended that you check voltage at the pressure switch and also the control box, basically you want to check that power is getting all the way through the system and any components that power is running through. I usually will start by checking voltage at the pump control panel and work my way from there. Your voltage needs to be +/- 10% of motor rating. If you find that your voltage is too high/low at the breaker panel you may need to contact the power company.
Overheated Protectors - If the box is mounted outdoors in direct sunlight or other heat sources can cause the overloads to overheat and prevent the pump from operating. Shading the box or moving it may be necessary.
Defective Control Box - The control box may have malfunctioned. Your previous voltage checks may have already led you to this conclusion, but if you would like detailed instructions on troubleshooting your control box we are adding those videos later in this series. But generally speaking, a visual inspection of the components is recommended as often times parts that fail will appear burnt. It is possible to replace individual components inside the panel but the components are expensive so if the box is over 10 years old replacement is recommended.
Finally, if everything else seems good, it may be time to replace the pump. Fortunately, there are a number of checks that you can perform to determine if the pump or wiring down the well is bad and needs to be pulled from the well. We will go over these troubleshooting methods in part 4 of this troubleshooting series. It is possible for poor connections down the well to cause the motor to appear bad so if you do end up pulling the well check the motor again to be sure it is the pump and motor, not the wiring connection. Replacement of the pump and motor or wire may be necessary, I advise you strongly consider replacing the pump end along with the motor if the pump is older than 5 years and the motor has failed.
If you need more information or assistance with products, call 855.329.4519 or email Customer.Service@RCWorst.com to speak with an industry expert. Thanks for watching!
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We are a distributor of pumps, packaged pumping systems, on-site wastewater treatment equipment, on-site wastewater treatment systems, and custom electrical control panels for water and wastewater applications, water well supplies, drilling supplies, and water treatment equipment.
Bro good job explaining this nice and clearly without wasting time or sounding super bored. You’re a good presenter, most people wouldn’t be able to do the whole explanation in one take.
Chris thanks so much for the description of the franklin control box. I just replaced my two starter motor capacitors and nothing started. I have had this box for over 30 years and did not know the reset buttons existed because it sat so low. After seeing your video I punched the reset buttons and was in business. My capacitors were 20 years old and neither of them registered any microfarads. I was in business for $18 and change. Thanks for educating me.
I live in Britain and I have to say the clear and concise and very informative presentations American companies do like this are superb. Many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great, accurate videos! Especially useful when most services are closed.
Glad it was helpful!
the 6 dislikes are just from the competition, over the last year you have saved me at least $1000 in plumber bills excluding ignorantly buying new pumps every time the guy tries to sell me on one. thanks a ton!! please link if you have a patreon etc...
Awesome! Glad to hear you've found the videos helpful Daniel. We don't have a patreon, but we do have a website for all your well /septic needs: www.Rcworst.com
Feel free to give us a call if you ever need help with anything! :)
Thanx so much, waz looking 4 a helpful video in just one click! well EXPLAINED & it doesnt matter there owez haters who seem not 2 ever appreciate good STUFF!!
Thank you very much ❤
Nice and clear explain
Can a pressure tank that’s too small cause the main overload to trip under constant useage? My well x trol tank probably has a draw down of 8 gallons and every summer when my pool auto fill is refilling the pool, and someone uses the shower, on occasion (not always) the main overload on my 2 hp Gould (down 700+ feet) trips. After reset, it works fine, and can for days or more if the demand isn’t really high. The control box isn’t the issue, it is fine, caps, relays, within spec. I changed the pressure switch and all voltage is ok. My thought was with a draw down that can empty the tank in 2 minutes, the pump is cycling on for 2 mins, off for two mins, on for 2, off for 2. Could that cause this intermittent overheating and tripping of the main overload? What if I got a much larger tank? So the draw down is 20 gallons. Yes, the pump will have to run for 5 mins straight to fill the tank, but then it will have a 5 minute rest to cool down. I probably fill at under 5 gallons per minute due to the 2hp and debt has of the well.
Any thoughts? If I call someone local it’s gonna be a 5k new pump with labor and a ruined lawn, since they have to drive to my backyard to pull the pump. My next move may be a new tank. I thought these pumps were made to run constantly, like a fish tank pump. Can’t imagine it’s going to trip the overload running 5 or 6 mins straight. But any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Control box stopped working to day. One start cap had wire burned or rotted off.. aluminum always breaks down. Also found pressure switch burnt stuck on. Replace all even the run cap ...Still Not working
I can push on the coil contacts to make connection to pump and tank fills. 3hp system sitting at 400ft. If a new box would work I'd get one but I'm not sure of anything now.
Give us a call to troubleshoot: 855.329.4519
@@RCworstwater I want to hand it the to R. C. WORST & Co. Dave there worked with me and in 2 days with 10 minutes of work my well back up and running! Thank YOU!
I was filling an above ground pool and the water stopped. I checked the box and the two yellow lights were flashing overload. I turned off the water and reset the pump. I have not turned the hose back on and tried to use minimal water in the house. The water has cut off 2 times since (overload flashing) and I reset both times then the water works. Please any suggestions?
Do all jet pumps have a control box? All i see aroumd mine is the pressure switch and the breaker on the wall obviously
no, i've never seen one that does.
Why borewell motor mcb tripping and using it for 5 months ?sir
I'm running out of ideas and hate to have a crane pull out my pump and have it to be something above ground. Could a problem be in the pump saver itself. My pump saver is giving me a dead head or dry well reading. My well drawn down is normal. My pump pressure is 20 psi normally around 65. I am getting 220 volts to the control box. My run capacitor checks out good. The relay switch also checks out good. Before I hire a crane to pull out my pump is there anything else I can do. (any trouble shooting at the pump saver) If it is a dead head problem, can I some how clean out the line without removing it). Thanks for any information on this.
What's the amperage when the pump is running? I will also need to know the HP of the motor.
@@RCworstwater The pump is a Payton submersible pump either 3/4 HP or 1 HP. at 15 G.P.M. ( The installer in 2018 wrote done 1H.P. 15 G.P.M. in a black marker. The well service company told me 3/4 H.P. at 15 G.P.M. in there files) My amps are 6.8 to 7.0. The amps do not change even prior to when the pump saver turns the pump off. The pump does put out around 15 g.p.m but does drop just before turning off.
I did try turning the sensitivity way down on the pump saver and re- calibrating the pump saver. At this point..." I am thinking the pump saver is doing its job." So there might be a hole in the line or it may be sanded up some how.
My pump is 60 feet deep with a static level of 11 feet and a draw down of 25 to 30 feet
Thanks again for all the time you guys put in these videos and answering so many questions in a short period of time.
Thanks for the Video. I have this system and I already changed the control box and the pressure switch (40/60) and when I turn the system on and reaches over 40 the gauge starts flickering and the overload switch on the control box is triggered shutting down the system. Any idea of what could it be?
I'd start by checking the pressure tank
Right now the pressure is 30psi in the tank
ua-cam.com/video/w21qa2bMUh8/v-deo.html&lc=Ugyk4v0Fb5RkU93FzsV4AaABAg
Thanks for the video. I already did that and made sure the pressure on the tank is at 38 wich is the max for my tank. I turned it on and after 30 seconds the overload switch triggered anyways shutting down the system.
Might be time to call a service tech out or you could try replacing the control box to see if that fixes it.
Saat kompa baru dinyalakan, mcb turun, apakah penyebabnya
How to reset control box when overload occured?
Should have a red button underneath box. If you have a reset on system
or the switch is bad?
My pump always trips after about an hour?...............what should I do dude?
Give us a call and we can help determine the cause: 855.329.4519
Did you ever find out? Mine is doing the same thing. I keep having to reset the control box.
@@seanjamesmacleod241did you figure out the issue? I’m having this issue as well