I might be dumb, I've been looking on your site, where do we go to buy a box from you man? I get the videos, there's a lot of Philip J Fry's let me throw you my money, but I don't see how to buy it from your channel.
Wow thank you Sir. NOBODY has this at all except you as I can find. I had no idea the space ghost guy was also the only one on the planet making these things. That could be wrong though.
Great job; straight to the point .. MY cover must be an earlier version, it's not as thick and doesn't have the extra centering grooves; which also would have added additional support.
Nice and secure...yeah 220V is nothing to mess around with. Pretty cool that it can tell you just what power it's using...very neat! Keep em coming man!
Im considering making one of these for my back up generator doing 240v. Will it read correctly with only being on one of the two phases in my breaker panel?
Well it only took me 3 hours of research, but I figured it out. Here's the answer to the question many have asked. If there is no neutral both legs will read the same, so you only need to measure one. If there is a neutral you have to measure both legs and the higher of the two will be your total current. That meter he wired only has two phases and both are hot, so both will read the same, so either one will tell you your total current.
So this outlet you're using has 2 hot 1 ground. What if I'm using an outlet that is 3 hot and 1 ground (the "dryer" one as you describe)? Do I still simply connect the monitor to two of the hots? Or am I not able to use this monitor?
Hello, I see you are using 10 gauge cable for your set up. Can I ask you which braker are you using? Im using a double 30amp braker and the meter box does not want to turn on. When I switched to a 20amp braker with 12gauge cables for testing purposes it came on. Do you have any idea about this? Thank you so much!
Same question for watts, Ives seen some whe once validate in a panel it doubles the watts for you if you have a balanced load. And I saw one person run both hots through the ct
How would I wire it for four prong L14 30 to measure generator wattage? Do I need two meters in box or wire as you did with the two hots to the meter and just one ct on one hot?
So I had my electrician come install essentially the same set up, but it won’t show the wattage draw… we were troubleshooting for an hr before he had to leave. I figured maybe the display meter is bad??? He will be back next week after I get a replacement. Is there any tips on getting it to show the wattage draw?
The CHOKE placement doesn't make sense in my head. Wouldn't it need to go around both hot wires? Are you not measuring only half the electrons when measuring only a single 110v leg?
Wouldn't you need 2 core current transformers (your current readers) to get accurate reading of amps on a 240v line 1 reader for each hot?. I see your meter is reading 240v but confused how if it's only reading 1 leg
Well it only took me 3 hours of research, but I figured it out. If there is no neutral both legs will read the same, so you only need to measure one. If there is a neutral you have to measure both legs and the higher of the two will be your total current. That meter he wired only has two phases and both are hot so both one will read the same, so either one will tell you your total current.
I had to found 2 outlets that would pair up to make 240. One in my hall, one in mining office. Going to feed them into a box to get me a temp 240 outlet
Hi! I have mine installed, followed everything. It lights up but it doesn’t read anything, it only shows 240 v and hertz reading. Wattage reading is at 0, any ideas?
Hi @Mad Electron Engineering, awesome video thank you. QQ, should the coil go through both hots or just one? How will it know the total usage if its only using one?!
The donut does not sense the voltage. The meter has connections on two sides. One side is the current sensor which the donut is connected to. The other side which he used orange wires for is the voltage
@@madelectronengineering yeah but people that want it should really know how long or a predicted time I'm at 4 months and I think others are at maybe twice that and I would have known that I would have just done the DIY we're still can do the DIY that is out there just to get a regular 4x4x6 box and just cut the faceplate out with the Dremel tool and that's just going to look just fine and I would take me an hour instead of 8 months I understand he's very busy but there's people that want to stuff and what else you going to do.
I ordered this device. 50 amp wire 6 gauge is FAR TOO BIG for this device. The connections are literally too small for that sized wire. Says it’s rated for 100a but there’s no way
You don't need to put 6 guage in for your power to the meter it can be 10 guage or any guage that's rated for 240v its just a power line. to power the meter on.the meter uses very very little power. It just needs to be 240v rated the same voltage your reading from your 50 amp line
Cool project. I've thinking about building something like this except using a raspberry pi to monitor and keep track of the usage. I can't seem to find an amp/volt/watt meter that'll work with the pi tho.
Do NOT follow the wiring instructions, box mounting, etc. There are so many code and safety issues with the wiring. Consult with a certified electrician before burning your house down.
I had to found 2 outlets that would pair up to make 240. One in my hall, one in mining office. Going to feed them into a box to get me a temp 240 outlet
@@AlteredComponent just kidding around, I know it will work, just risky for equipment if you were to lose one of the legs of power since they are likely on different breakers. I know your videos well, so I assumed you knew what you were doing and were well aware of the risks. Thanks for all your content BTW.
@@c3mining527 appreciate it. Definitely dropped it after only a week. I wired a couple new 20amp breakers on 120v and new outlets for rigs in basement. Wished I went ahead and did the 240v then, but what can u do
Awesome video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Would Spacegoats be willing to sell the STL file (for personal use only)? I have a 3D printer already 😁
@@MarkLenkner I highly doubt it, it's his IP.
I might be dumb, I've been looking on your site, where do we go to buy a box from you man? I get the videos, there's a lot of Philip J Fry's let me throw you my money, but I don't see how to buy it from your channel.
@@garhent the link for spacegoats discord channel is in the video description, you buy it from there.
Wow thank you Sir. NOBODY has this at all except you as I can find. I had no idea the space ghost guy was also the only one on the planet making these things. That could be wrong though.
This was such an awesome video, it shows the average person doing an install.
Great job; straight to the point .. MY cover must be an earlier version, it's not as thick and doesn't have the extra centering grooves; which also would have added additional support.
Great description! Thanks.
Nice and secure...yeah 220V is nothing to mess around with.
Pretty cool that it can tell you just what power it's using...very neat!
Keep em coming man!
Thanks for the video. This really help me get my meter configured properly.
Now I can do mine thanks brotha 🔥🔥🔥
Im considering making one of these for my back up generator doing 240v. Will it read correctly with only being on one of the two phases in my breaker panel?
Awesome tutorial! I just installed it easy as (d)uck!
Great vid
Great Video Nice Upgrade Cleaner look Love it
Can you provide a parts list with links
Well done sir, exactly what i need it!
Well it only took me 3 hours of research, but I figured it out. Here's the answer to the question many have asked.
If there is no neutral both legs will read the same, so you only need to measure one. If there is a neutral you have to measure both legs and the higher of the two will be your total current. That meter he wired only has two phases and both are hot, so both will read the same, so either one will tell you your total current.
Great vid my man
Got the meter working. The label goes straight and that means the display is also upright and not upside down.
thanks for the vid. helped alot!
So this outlet you're using has 2 hot 1 ground. What if I'm using an outlet that is 3 hot and 1 ground (the "dryer" one as you describe)? Do I still simply connect the monitor to two of the hots? Or am I not able to use this monitor?
Thx for the walkthrough , great video
Thanks for the video!! Made it work thanks to this!!!!
Very clear info man thanks
Were did you get the display
Did you use PDU or Create a own L6-30 to power supply? Can you please make video about that. Thanks
How does this read 240v and proper wattage if only one leg is going through the coil?
Hello, I see you are using 10 gauge cable for your set up. Can I ask you which braker are you using? Im using a double 30amp braker and the meter box does not want to turn on. When I switched to a 20amp braker with 12gauge cables for testing purposes it came on. Do you have any idea about this? Thank you so much!
BWahahaha...when you pan to your rig on the cabinet...i did a double take thinking you had the rig built into those 2 large Pots...classic
Hey thanks for the instructional. What gauge are the red wires?
should be 10G , which is rated for a 240v line and 30amps
Is the amperage reading correct or is it HALF since you're only measuring 1 of the hot legs?
Same question for watts, Ives seen some whe once validate in a panel it doubles the watts for you if you have a balanced load. And I saw one person run both hots through the ct
How would I wire it for four prong L14 30 to measure generator wattage? Do I need two meters in box or wire as you did with the two hots to the meter and just one ct on one hot?
great video this helps a lot!
Where can I find the display you're using?
How does the display go so it is right side up? The label goes up so the display isn't upside down?
So I had my electrician come install essentially the same set up, but it won’t show the wattage draw… we were troubleshooting for an hr before he had to leave. I figured maybe the display meter is bad??? He will be back next week after I get a replacement. Is there any tips on getting it to show the wattage draw?
Amazing video
The CHOKE placement doesn't make sense in my head.
Wouldn't it need to go around both hot wires?
Are you not measuring only half the electrons when measuring only a single 110v leg?
If you put the choke on both hot lines they will cancel themselves out as they're 180' out of phase.
@@madelectronengineering Hmmm interesting. I didn't think about that being possible, thanks.
very helpful
Wouldn't you need 2 core current transformers (your current readers) to get accurate reading of amps on a 240v line 1 reader for each hot?.
I see your meter is reading 240v but confused how if it's only reading 1 leg
Me too. I'm trying to figure this out. If only one hot is going through the coil how is it reading 240 instead of 120?
Well it only took me 3 hours of research, but I figured it out. If there is no neutral both legs will read the same, so you only need to measure one. If there is a neutral you have to measure both legs and the higher of the two will be your total current. That meter he wired only has two phases and both are hot so both one will read the same, so either one will tell you your total current.
I had to found 2 outlets that would pair up to make 240. One in my hall, one in mining office. Going to feed them into a box to get me a temp 240 outlet
when you realized you put the monitor in and was blocking the outlet screws, hilarious laugh.
nice what max wattage ? I'm planning to breaker box 100 amps
so wire is rated for amps not volts
Hi! I have mine installed, followed everything. It lights up but it doesn’t read anything, it only shows 240 v and hertz reading. Wattage reading is at 0, any ideas?
Make sure you put the coil on only 1 of the 2 hot wires.
@@madelectronengineering it works, Thankyou so much!!!!!!!!!!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Apparently many complain it's not very accurate which defies the whole point of monitoring...
Why did you use 10/2 wire and not 10/3?
👍
Good video
Hi @Mad Electron Engineering, awesome video thank you. QQ, should the coil go through both hots or just one? How will it know the total usage if its only using one?!
Just one hot, if you go through both they will cancel themselves out and you won't get a reading on the display.
Miss your videos!
If I understood it right, for 220v we need both hot wires instead 1 hot and 1 neutral. Is that right?
Correct
This is awesome. It would be really good to have an european version of this. Has anyobe figured out an European receptable suitable for this?
so what outlet are you using? or planning to use if big power draw is intended
L6-30
Wait how does it sense it’s 240v when that donut only goes around one of the hot wires? Each hot is only 120...
The donut does not sense the voltage. The meter has connections on two sides. One side is the current sensor which the donut is connected to. The other side which he used orange wires for is the voltage
Can this unit work in a 220v electricity country?
Yes
How long did it take for you to order and get the box from space ghost?
He's really backed up right now, there's a fre months wait currently.
@@madelectronengineering yeah but people that want it should really know how long or a predicted time I'm at 4 months and I think others are at maybe twice that and I would have known that I would have just done the DIY we're still can do the DIY that is out there just to get a regular 4x4x6 box and just cut the faceplate out with the Dremel tool and that's just going to look just fine and I would take me an hour instead of 8 months I understand he's very busy but there's people that want to stuff and what else you going to do.
I ordered this device. 50 amp wire 6 gauge is FAR TOO BIG for this device. The connections are literally too small for that sized wire. Says it’s rated for 100a but there’s no way
You don't need to put 6 guage in for your power to the meter it can be 10 guage or any guage that's rated for 240v its just a power line. to power the meter on.the meter uses very very little power. It just needs to be 240v rated the same voltage your reading from your 50 amp line
Cool project. I've thinking about building something like this except using a raspberry pi to monitor and keep track of the usage. I can't seem to find an amp/volt/watt meter that'll work with the pi tho.
why you breathing so hard putting the wires together? lol
You do not need that thick wire just to supply the voltage to the meter.
It only uses milliamperes so any wire (with decent insulation) would do.
He said that in video
Do NOT follow the wiring instructions, box mounting, etc. There are so many code and safety issues with the wiring. Consult with a certified electrician before burning your house down.
while i proceed to copy this video
Clown 🤡 - Volts don't determine the thickness of the power cable - AMPS do!
I had to found 2 outlets that would pair up to make 240. One in my hall, one in mining office. Going to feed them into a box to get me a temp 240 outlet
RIP
@@c3mining527 it worked for the testing;) just has to have 2 120v on different circuit
@@AlteredComponent just kidding around, I know it will work, just risky for equipment if you were to lose one of the legs of power since they are likely on different breakers. I know your videos well, so I assumed you knew what you were doing and were well aware of the risks. Thanks for all your content BTW.
@@c3mining527 appreciate it. Definitely dropped it after only a week. I wired a couple new 20amp breakers on 120v and new outlets for rigs in basement. Wished I went ahead and did the 240v then, but what can u do