“ … more pleasurable.” 👈🏻 This. The most underrated statement ever made! Whenever I’m headed out to my shop, I tell my wife that, “I’m going out to see my psychiatrist for a couple of hours.” If I’ve had a rough day or maybe I’m not feeling my best, I go out and grab a piece of scrap lumber, crank it in my vise, grab a plane - any one of them will do - and I just listen to the “schwoosh” of the blade peeling away those layers. Mmmm … it truly is great therapy for my soul. Whatever was bothering me either disappears or a solution pops into my head. If I happen to not be feeling the best, after a couple of hours of slicing and shaving that piece of scrap lumber, my aches and pains have turned into hand and leg cramps, but I barely feel them. Those two hours completely change my outlook every time!
Thank you for stopping by our store today. It was a pleasure speaking to you as briefly as our conversation was, and I look forward to watching and learning from your videos!
Objection, your honor! Contrary to a popular belief to get a crisp arris and an inside angle a nicker should be ever so slightly outside of the iron. This applies to any crossgrain plane - works on filisters too. That little bit of wood is severed by a nicker anyway, an iron just rips it out leaving a clean sharp angle. Most of the time this offset is by stoning prongs at a particular angle from inside, but worst case prongs can be carefully bent a thou (literally, no more than 0.1mm) out, nickers were tempered soft. This works way better than trying to align a nicker with an iron precisely, which might sometimes be impossible.
I have 3 japanese Kikai-Sakuri Kanna planes that cut dados. They have 2 scoring blades that are almost as big as the main blade. 2 of them also have a fence.
If I was only doing one or two odd dadoes once in a while I would probably do them with saw, chisel, and (hand)router, but in a non-powered shop this makes a lot of sense for the most common dado sizes.
How would you start a dado edge groove? I noticed that though your blade was quite sharp, there was a bit of tearout at the start. There doesn't appear to be a way to start the dado "backwards" and I'm not sure that the beginning score would solve that? Thank you.
Thanks Graham. I am now on the lookout for a dado plane. One question. If you don't have one that is the exact fit, can you use a smaller plane to get the correct width? Like using a 1/4 inch width to achieve 1/2 inch width?
“ … more pleasurable.” 👈🏻 This. The most underrated statement ever made!
Whenever I’m headed out to my shop, I tell my wife that, “I’m going out to see my psychiatrist for a couple of hours.”
If I’ve had a rough day or maybe I’m not feeling my best, I go out and grab a piece of scrap lumber, crank it in my vise, grab a plane - any one of them will do - and I just listen to the “schwoosh” of the blade peeling away those layers. Mmmm … it truly is great therapy for my soul. Whatever was bothering me either disappears or a solution pops into my head. If I happen to not be feeling the best, after a couple of hours of slicing and shaving that piece of scrap lumber, my aches and pains have turned into hand and leg cramps, but I barely feel them. Those two hours completely change my outlook every time!
great!
Thank you for stopping by our store today. It was a pleasure speaking to you as briefly as our conversation was, and I look forward to watching and learning from your videos!
My pleasure! Thank you, too.
Incredible that the heritage of these beautifully crafted tools is still available to own these many years later, wonderful presentation Mr Blackburn.
Couldn't agree more!
Objection, your honor! Contrary to a popular belief to get a crisp arris and an inside angle a nicker should be ever so slightly outside of the iron. This applies to any crossgrain plane - works on filisters too. That little bit of wood is severed by a nicker anyway, an iron just rips it out leaving a clean sharp angle. Most of the time this offset is by stoning prongs at a particular angle from inside, but worst case prongs can be carefully bent a thou (literally, no more than 0.1mm) out, nickers were tempered soft. This works way better than trying to align a nicker with an iron precisely, which might sometimes be impossible.
very good tip!
Thank you for making these videos, i really appreciate it! You have forgotten more about woodworking than i will ever know!
You're welcome!
I have 3 japanese Kikai-Sakuri Kanna planes that cut dados. They have 2 scoring blades that are almost as big as the main blade. 2 of them also have a fence.
sounds good!
Hi.iam new,m from India, Manipur state like to learn something new and obviously every thing is new to me.m also a carpenter.
you're welcome!
I always enjoy watching your videos and find the history of the tools fascinating. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you like them!
Vraiment de très beaux outils qui dureront encore des décennies. Bravo
merci!
Thank you again Sir.🎉
Always welcome
Cracking watch! ❤
you're welcome!
Great video! Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Glad you liked it!
If I was only doing one or two odd dadoes once in a while I would probably do them with saw, chisel, and (hand)router, but in a non-powered shop this makes a lot of sense for the most common dado sizes.
Absolutely!
Thank you very much Sir ❤
you're welcome!
How would you start a dado edge groove? I noticed that though your blade was quite sharp, there was a bit of tearout at the start. There doesn't appear to be a way to start the dado "backwards" and I'm not sure that the beginning score would solve that? Thank you.
The knicker spurs should have been sharper and a bit deeper.
Thanks Graham. I am now on the lookout for a dado plane. One question. If you don't have one that is the exact fit, can you use a smaller plane to get the correct width? Like using a 1/4 inch width to achieve 1/2 inch width?
Yes, absolutely
1746. Wow.
I bet there won't be very many machine tools built today still working in two and a half centuries' time.
you're welcome!
Probably true!