You might want to try Labor Saving Devices PW36047 reference bit. It's simply a 36" long .047" piano wire (comes 10 to a pack) cut at a 45 degree angle. Above the stud bay where you need to route the wire, where the wall meets the ceiling, you drill that tiny bit up into the attic area. Do all the bays before heading to the attic. You will see those tiny wires above the insulation. Drill down at the spot and you're good to go. Those little wires don't wear out so you will use them forever and no measuring while stuck in a hot attic. The hole left by the reference bit is so tiny you don't need to fill. This was a great video. Good luck.
Since I’m the DIY’er and not doing it for hire, I also use a vacuum hose right under my cut (and when sanding drywall patches) to capture 95% of the dust as it’s made. This video and your 3/4-way switch explanation are my two new favorites. So helpful!
I prefer to attach the box to the stud, instead of the middle of the bay. There really isn't enough "meat" (wall) holding the box in place otherwise. Assume that someone will be plugging and unplugging repeatedly. That puts a lot on stress on the little bit of "real estate" holding the box in place. Plus, tamper-resistant receptacles are required in many places, which puts even more stress on the wall/box juncture. Arlington makes a 1 gang box with drywall screws (One-Box) already attached so you can screw it onto the wall. The box is UL listed for that purpose. You can use a 1/8' pilot bit (12" long) about 1" from the wall and make a hole into the attic. A 1 - 2' of 14 awg (solid) cut of wire, with the tip cut on an angle (to pass through insulation more easily and not likely to pierce existing insulated wires), will give you a better idea of where you should drill. The little hole is easily fixable. Also, a 2' X 4' piece (or two) of 3/4" (or smaller) plywood makes kneeling/moving about in an attic more bearable. A "ship auger" bit (18"?) is great, but you'll need a 1/2" chuck drill. Plus it can go through nails more easily than a paddle bit. Just my two cents. Great video, by the way. Sorry if I'm rambling on...
Thanks for all of that. Great suggestions. ... I just looked those up. That is awesome. around here I've only seen guys take the blue boxes and put drywall screws through them in random places. I'm attaching a link to those or something similar. www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-1-Gang-Adjustable-Depth-Device-Box/5001935779?store=3256&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-CRP_SHP_LIA_ELC_Online_E-F-_-5001935779-_-local-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi_G5BhDXARIsAN5SX7oyd8DP0QRN-_Jao9ncvqEnlkUlPsD4SDfkS61I9Nq0N042yse1x4saAjnLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've done the same. Technically though you're not supposed to put screws through the side of the box, because the box isn't "listed" for that purpose.
I do not recommend matching existing wrong placements of outlets. Agree that outlet boxes should be mounted on studs whenever possible. And you really need to get the Makita drywall cutout tool and a good dust collector. Game changer for stuff like this. Measuring wire seems like a huge time waster to me, but I’m good at wasting time in every other way.
If you can find a chimney there is at least 6 inches all around the chimney of free space. Especially in older homes. You can run wire from the basement all the way to the attic with no problems.
I’ve been doing electric work for 30+ years and I have never buried or put a splice box in the attic.I have never seen anyone use there glow/fish rods this way ether, you strip the romex cut off the blk and wht wire feed the ground wire through the hole in the end of the rod push the rod down then go down and pull the rod out with the wire hooked to it. Then pull off enough wire to get to the next outlet, and then cut the wire for your drop, and spool off for the drop and now hook both ends the same with the grounds and repeat.
If you use fiberglass rods or the like to push Romex past insulation in a wall, I suggest not forming a hook in the Romex because if the wire gets stuck and you can't move it forward or if you have to retrieve it, the hook can act as a barb and may prevent you from pulling the wire out. Instead, just electrical or duct tape the Romex parallel to the rod and use enough tape so it wont slip or be pulled off the rod. Also, it should be easier to go through the hole you've drilled, or the hole can me smaller because only a single piece of wire and the rod has to go through the hole and not a doubled over piece of wire.
How do you pull your rod back out without leaving the attic and untapping the rod? You might want to watch his demo again. If your wire gets stuck going down, cut it off and abandon it.
Great tips brother, this is going to help with my old house that is in need of more outlets. But more importantly can we talk about the Dijon egg salad?? Never thought of that but now I’m hungry! 😂
All the best on your project! --- Quick and easy protein --we always keep boiled eggs in the fridge. A little avocadonaise, a healthy squirt of dijon, smash, and good to go :-)
If you spin your round multitool blade 90 degrees you'll be able to use both the round side and the flat side thereby negating the need for your utility knife.
For A Better, Stronger Box Mount, I Like To Use The Flat Sided Rectangular 180 Box, Have to Drill Holes at Least 3/4" Back From Fron, Don't Know Why They Have Hole 1/4" Back..Would Go Ito Drywall, Hope Manufacturers Will Wake Up. Then Locate Stud With Stud Finder Or Magnet. Find Where You Want Top Of Box, With Wallboard Saw, Cut Across Top Til You Hit Stud With Blade Perpendicular to Wall, Now With Top and One Side Located, Put Box Up To Wall, Draw The Rectangle, Gut Out for Box, Then With Wire Fished In, Romex or MC, Add Connector, Feed Ends Into Box, Then Screw Box To Stud, Very Strong, Solid. Box Should Just Barely Be Flush With Wall, If Sticking Out, Plate May Not Contact Wall. Hate The Plastic Boxes With Ears, Or Metal Cutins With All The Extra Cuts To Fit In Wall, 4 Straight Cuts For Rectangular Box, Doesn't Get Easier Than That. Stronger
The last oil change Dave did was blue restore not restore and protect two different products! I just changed my oil burner with restore and protect I hope it works as I've done just about the same steps as Dave with no success so far.
not gonna lie this video is almost making me want to run ethernet through my attic. I'm pretty certain my walls are plaster and lathe everywhere except in my basement so I don't know how feasible it is
@@biggamallafluer2758 Definitely do so!!! Run Cat6. Also think about running conduit so is you have to upgrade to a more modern cable (and we know we will) it will be tons easier.
expired patent.-one cylinder-get acetone, kerosene or paint thinner, mix acetone and kerosine 50%50% put piston at top dead center on the compression stroke pour in the mix then real quickly put the plug in to create a vacuum and let set over night then crank it up , it will smoke untill it warms up .do this to the other 3 cylinders on the compression stroke . also make sure the motor is warm first and not boiling hot. the vacuum lets the rings soak longer without draining into the oil pan. expired patent .my rings were stuck real bad worse than yours. I had to do this 2 times on one cylinder. I noticed your cylinder walls still had the factory scratched pattern and the rings never worn off the scratch pattern.
Bro get a laser "tape" measure! Lord having to stretch a tape out in an attic with everything in the way and especially when you measure twice. Hold a little Gizmo in your hand,push a button putting the laser pointer on starting measure point. Boom done... Measure 5 times if you want lol and anyone who is running wires in a house and doesn't have glow rods with them in any case... I have questions lol
I do not recommend matching existing wrong placements of outlets. Agree that outlet boxes should be mounted on studs whenever possible. And you really need to get the Makita drywall cutout tool and a good dust collector. Game changer for stuff like this. Measuring wire seems like a huge time waster to me, but I’m good at wasting time in every other way.
You might want to try Labor Saving Devices PW36047 reference bit. It's simply a 36" long .047" piano wire (comes 10 to a pack) cut at a 45 degree angle. Above the stud bay where you need to route the wire, where the wall meets the ceiling, you drill that tiny bit up into the attic area. Do all the bays before heading to the attic. You will see those tiny wires above the insulation. Drill down at the spot and you're good to go. Those little wires don't wear out so you will use them forever and no measuring while stuck in a hot attic. The hole left by the reference bit is so tiny you don't need to fill. This was a great video. Good luck.
Since I’m the DIY’er and not doing it for hire, I also use a vacuum hose right under my cut (and when sanding drywall patches) to capture 95% of the dust as it’s made. This video and your 3/4-way switch explanation are my two new favorites. So helpful!
Good tip!
A cradle of painters tape under the drywall cut also saves a lot of mess.
@@simongchadwick I'm going to have to try that. Thanks for the tip!
You really do a great job on these videos. I hope you keep making them, and have a great holiday!
Much appreciated, Bob. You too!
I prefer to attach the box to the stud, instead of the middle of the bay. There really isn't enough "meat" (wall) holding the box in place otherwise. Assume that someone will be plugging and unplugging repeatedly. That puts a lot on stress on the little bit of "real estate" holding the box in place. Plus, tamper-resistant receptacles are required in many places, which puts even more stress on the wall/box juncture. Arlington makes a 1 gang box with drywall screws (One-Box) already attached so you can screw it onto the wall. The box is UL listed for that purpose.
You can use a 1/8' pilot bit (12" long) about 1" from the wall and make a hole into the attic. A 1 - 2' of 14 awg (solid) cut of wire, with the tip cut on an angle (to pass through insulation more easily and not likely to pierce existing insulated wires), will give you a better idea of where you should drill. The little hole is easily fixable.
Also, a 2' X 4' piece (or two) of 3/4" (or smaller) plywood makes kneeling/moving about in an attic more bearable.
A "ship auger" bit (18"?) is great, but you'll need a 1/2" chuck drill. Plus it can go through nails more easily than a paddle bit.
Just my two cents. Great video, by the way. Sorry if I'm rambling on...
Thanks for all of that. Great suggestions. ... I just looked those up. That is awesome. around here I've only seen guys take the blue boxes and put drywall screws through them in random places. I'm attaching a link to those or something similar. www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-1-Gang-Adjustable-Depth-Device-Box/5001935779?store=3256&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-CRP_SHP_LIA_ELC_Online_E-F-_-5001935779-_-local-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAi_G5BhDXARIsAN5SX7oyd8DP0QRN-_Jao9ncvqEnlkUlPsD4SDfkS61I9Nq0N042yse1x4saAjnLEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks for the additional info
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've done the same. Technically though you're not supposed to put screws through the side of the box, because the box isn't "listed" for that purpose.
I came to the comments section for just this kinda info,
Thank you!
you're a great teacher, this video was highly enjoyable to watch.... I'm a new sub
Much appreciated :-)
First time seeing one of your videos. Great tips. I subscribed.
I do not recommend matching existing wrong placements of outlets.
Agree that outlet boxes should be mounted on studs whenever possible.
And you really need to get the Makita drywall cutout tool and a good dust collector. Game changer for stuff like this.
Measuring wire seems like a huge time waster to me, but I’m good at wasting time in every other way.
If you can find a chimney there is at least 6 inches all around the chimney of free space. Especially in older homes. You can run wire from the basement all the way to the attic with no problems.
Awesome tip!
This is a really bad idea you should never do that.
Merry Christmas Sir and Lady
Merry Christmas to you!
I’ve been doing electric work for 30+ years and I have never buried or put a splice box in the attic.I have never seen anyone use there glow/fish rods this way ether, you strip the romex cut off the blk and wht wire feed the ground wire through the hole in the end of the rod push the rod down then go down and pull the rod out with the wire hooked to it. Then pull off enough wire to get to the next outlet, and then cut the wire for your drop, and spool off for the drop and now hook both ends the same with the grounds and repeat.
If you use fiberglass rods or the like to push Romex past insulation in a wall, I suggest not forming a hook in the Romex because if the wire gets stuck and you can't move it forward or if you have to retrieve it, the hook can act as a barb and may prevent you from pulling the wire out. Instead, just electrical or duct tape the Romex parallel to the rod and use enough tape so it wont slip or be pulled off the rod. Also, it should be easier to go through the hole you've drilled, or the hole can me smaller because only a single piece of wire and the rod has to go through the hole and not a doubled over piece of wire.
How do you pull your rod back out without leaving the attic and untapping the rod? You might want to watch his demo again.
If your wire gets stuck going down, cut it off and abandon it.
The semi circle blade that you use in the drywall works great for 90° corners by turning the sawblade. That way you still only go to a half inch depth
All around Great Video
Thank you!
This was great. Lots of wonderful tips!
Much appreciated!
Great tips brother, this is going to help with my old house that is in need of more outlets. But more importantly can we talk about the Dijon egg salad?? Never thought of that but now I’m hungry! 😂
All the best on your project! --- Quick and easy protein --we always keep boiled eggs in the fridge. A little avocadonaise, a healthy squirt of dijon, smash, and good to go :-)
Klein Tools has an amazing headlamp
If you spin your round multitool blade 90 degrees you'll be able to use both the round side and the flat side thereby negating the need for your utility knife.
Doh! ... That's a great tip. I"ll be trying that. Thanks!
Yes.... we want to see the results of valvoline restore & protect on your car!!!
Taking longer than expected. Ran into some snags mid production.
Ok... we'll be looking forward to seeing it
Instead of bit extensions there are extra long drill bits 12", 16", 72" for example. They are not too expensive and are much less hassle.
Good info :-)
Diablo at Home Depot. They're great😊
For A Better, Stronger Box Mount, I Like To Use The Flat Sided Rectangular 180 Box, Have to Drill Holes at Least 3/4" Back From Fron, Don't Know Why They Have Hole 1/4" Back..Would Go Ito Drywall, Hope Manufacturers Will Wake Up.
Then Locate Stud With Stud Finder Or Magnet. Find Where You Want Top Of Box, With Wallboard Saw, Cut Across Top Til You Hit Stud With Blade Perpendicular to Wall, Now With Top and One Side Located, Put Box Up To Wall, Draw The Rectangle, Gut Out for Box, Then With Wire Fished In, Romex or MC, Add Connector, Feed Ends Into Box, Then Screw Box To Stud, Very Strong, Solid. Box Should Just Barely Be Flush With Wall, If Sticking Out, Plate May Not Contact Wall.
Hate The Plastic Boxes With Ears, Or Metal Cutins With All The Extra Cuts To Fit In Wall, 4 Straight Cuts For Rectangular Box, Doesn't Get Easier Than That. Stronger
Use a box cutter on your multi cuts a few extra seconds off but perfect cut every time
Tape extensions together and you won’t lose them
Excellent tip! ... embarrassed I didn't think to do it :-)
The last oil change Dave did was blue restore not restore and protect two different products! I just changed my oil burner with restore and protect I hope it works as I've done just about the same steps as Dave with no success so far.
Keep us posted on your progress?
I will
When will you do the engine rebuild on the toyota? Have been waiting for that episode :)
:-) Corolla video coming soon.
not gonna lie this video is almost making me want to run ethernet through my attic. I'm pretty certain my walls are plaster and lathe everywhere except in my basement so I don't know how feasible it is
Go for it. The only difference is, I use a grout blade on my oscillating tool when I cut the box holes in plaster.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY ok cool. gonna try to get it done before it gets too hot in my attid
@@biggamallafluer2758
Definitely do so!!!
Run Cat6. Also think about running conduit so is you have to upgrade to a more modern cable (and we know we will) it will be tons easier.
Where the second video of Valvoline restore and protect. We wanna see the part II
Yes.... we want to see the results of valvoline restore & protect on your car!!!
Working on it ... taking longer than expected.
@ yeah it does take 4 oil changes to see the difference in oil burn
Dave..Dave...Dave... nobody wants to see wire pulling videos...we want to see the oil drinking Corolla driving you nuts 😂...
.
Did i miss the 2nd video on the premium blue?
What happened to the civic oil changes? Is it still burning oil? Are you taking it apart to see the problem?
The experiment is still in production. Hit a snag which put it on pause. Hoping to get it resolved soon. Sorry for the wait.
Certain size wire has certain Olms per foot
This is a great video. But what happened with the cummings cleraner and the Corola...? lol.
Still working on it. Had some delays.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I certainly understand.
I consider mounting the boxes in the attic higher in case the homeowner adds insulation.
Great advice. Thanks!
expired patent.-one cylinder-get acetone, kerosene or paint thinner, mix acetone and kerosine 50%50% put piston at top dead center on the compression stroke pour in the mix then real quickly put the plug in to create a vacuum and let set over night then crank it up , it will smoke untill it warms up .do this to the other 3 cylinders on the compression stroke . also make sure the motor is warm first and not boiling hot. the vacuum lets the rings soak longer without draining into the oil pan. expired patent .my rings were stuck real bad worse than yours. I had to do this 2 times on one cylinder. I noticed your cylinder walls still had the factory scratched pattern and the rings never worn off the scratch pattern.
You can measure wire with Olms on your meter. It. Is dead accurate
Ohms
@@Hvacrpro123 how does this method tell you where to cut?
@@jmwelch73 You’ll have to have the wire already cut to measure its length by ohms.
Rule number 1 in show business..give the people what they want...we want oil burning 😂...
I know, right? I'm just as bummed as everyone else that I haven't finished the other experiment. :-)
So that means you are 6ft tall, there about.
Yep ... 6'3"
Bro get a laser "tape" measure! Lord having to stretch a tape out in an attic with everything in the way and especially when you measure twice. Hold a little Gizmo in your hand,push a button putting the laser pointer on starting measure point. Boom done... Measure 5 times if you want lol and anyone who is running wires in a house and doesn't have glow rods with them in any case... I have questions lol
6:10
Your videos are amazing! May I kindly ask for your business inquiry email?
That's not pulling wire. That's poking Romex through insulation.
Touche! ... You definitely have a point.
eww get that dijon egg salad outta here!
:-)
I do not recommend matching existing wrong placements of outlets.
Agree that outlet boxes should be mounted on studs whenever possible.
And you really need to get the Makita drywall cutout tool and a good dust collector. Game changer for stuff like this.
Measuring wire seems like a huge time waster to me, but I’m good at wasting time in every other way.