This tool (and similar) work so well with this method, any snowball block--and I use this to cut from strips so I'm not wasting two corners (the underlying, and the replacement fabric). Another tip is to add 6/8" (3/8th for the top notch and then again for the bottom) in to the height so that you can cut a rectangle easily, and then make one cut by aligning the top/bottom strip on left side. It saves quite a bit of time when you are making many as it avoids rotation. Save time + fabric. As Colleen notes below, using this for mitering binding strips + the final miter makes for an easy, professional finish by taking out excessive fabric and working with engineered cuts. If you have a STripology ruler...you can cut your WOF on the 1/4" increment (e.g. the rectangle width), and then use your STriplogy ruler to cut the rectangle subcuts. Then come back with this ruler to make the 2nd cut. Great workprocess modification in my sweatshop of one.
This is a very informative video, but There is one question you did not answer for me. I want a 2 1/2" corner . Do I place the ruler bottom line where the arrow is directly below the 2 1/2" mark? Or do I move it over to the dotted line angling towards the 2 1/2" printed number? I hope I am making sense. Basically, where do I place the bottom line?
I have an Easy Angle II, by Sharon Hultgren that I've had for many years, but have never used it. I'm trying to find out how this ruler works. This goes up to 10 1/2", but how it's numbered is confusing to me. Can you help? I've searched everywhere I know to look for instructions. Thanks, Sarah
I love this ruler!!!! I always use it to piece my binding and borders on an angle. I think that they look best when pieced at an angle!!!
This tool (and similar) work so well with this method, any snowball block--and I use this to cut from strips so I'm not wasting two corners (the underlying, and the replacement fabric). Another tip is to add 6/8" (3/8th for the top notch and then again for the bottom) in to the height so that you can cut a rectangle easily, and then make one cut by aligning the top/bottom strip on left side. It saves quite a bit of time when you are making many as it avoids rotation. Save time + fabric. As Colleen notes below, using this for mitering binding strips + the final miter makes for an easy, professional finish by taking out excessive fabric and working with engineered cuts.
If you have a STripology ruler...you can cut your WOF on the 1/4" increment (e.g. the rectangle width), and then use your STriplogy ruler to cut the rectangle subcuts. Then come back with this ruler to make the 2nd cut. Great workprocess modification in my sweatshop of one.
This is a very informative video, but There is one question you did not answer for me. I want a 2 1/2" corner . Do I place the ruler bottom line where the arrow is directly below the 2 1/2" mark? Or do I move it over to the dotted line angling towards the 2 1/2" printed number? I hope I am making sense. Basically, where do I place the bottom line?
I have an Easy Angle II, by Sharon Hultgren that I've had for many years, but have never used it. I'm trying to find out how this ruler works. This goes up to 10 1/2", but how it's numbered is confusing to me. Can you help? I've searched everywhere I know to look for instructions. Thanks, Sarah
please google "easy angle ruler instructions" - PLENTY of help there