1984 Mercedes 300SD - Part 3 Wood Trim, Door Striker, Seat Back Nets
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
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/ woodsandbarclay This is a very nice and very low mileage example of the 300SD. With only 1 owner and 63,000 miles this is the nicest 300SD I have owned.
www.woodsandba...
#MercedesDiesel #w126 #300SD #w123 #300D #om617
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Big shout out for this men 👍.
If seen a lot of you videos in the past days. And it's really impressive to save almost every big Benz out there 👏
Thank you H.V.G. they are great cars and need to be saved!
Most of the interior hard plastic is brittle. Most seat-back net frames crack apart and I haven't seen new replacement parts. Also, the plastic trim at the bottom of the interior B pillars cracks. The First Aid plastic covers are now available new (from Turkey) and affordable. Replaced the one in my 1984 300D, though couldn't find which of the colored decals was "correct" for the U.S. Perhaps other plastic parts will have aftermarket replacements soon.
Thank you for the comment I'm so glad you're enjoying the videos.
I found a guy on ebay that sells many different book matched burl wood veneer.
I use a heatgun to remove the clear finish and vacum bag the burl wood
Onto the old pieces. Then lightly stain it and spray 4 coats of high solids
Eurathane automotive clear coat. Wet sand with 2000 and polish.
Its time consuming but it looks so much better than what M.b put out.
But I never did like the look of the zabrano. Looks cheap compared to a nice burl.
I am thinking about doing a video on the process.
That's great I love your method of applying the new veneer with a vacuum seal. Please do make a video I would love to see that.
What is the torque spec for the W126 door striker bolts? You mentioned it at 19:20.
Also, your videos are awesome! This is the first place I go for info on how to repair/replace anything on my W126 (1990 300SE).
Just snug them up firm. As the Germans say Goodandtight.
@woodsandbarclay
This wood trim is coated with polyester resin. It is not a laquer. If it was laquered than you would be able to strip it with acetone or a stripper.
The only way you can remove this is with a heat gun and right before it starts to bubble you need to use a puddy knife to scrape it off. it actually come off really easily with a heat gun and puddy knife.
I recomend that you try using a heat gun on a spare peice of trim just to try it out and you will be amazed with how gorgouse the wood really is.
Once I got all the polyester resin off you can actually see the wood grain dance. I used Epifanes Clear Marine Varnish to refinish it to protect the wood from UV light during the summer.
Oh that's great thank you so much I'm going to give that a try!
Glad to hear someone that knows about MBZ wood, thank you. In the late 70,s 80,'s 90's restoring 30-40 wood sets a month with 6 employees.
Nitrocellulose lacquer was used up to 1971, after that a 2-part polyester plastic.I used a exterior polyurethane with UV protection.
Awesome I have always wanted to know what that stuff is!
Very nice job. I saw video before that somebody peals the clear coat buy heat gun. Have you ever tried that? I think it can save a lot of time.
Yes you can use a heat gun if the original nitro cellulose is cracked. However, if not cracked this is the best method in the video.
The correct way to remove that nitro cellulose though is to give it a chemical bath that dissolves the nitric cellulose but does not hurt the wood.
👍
;)
Hii, you are really doing very great work. All my wood trim is burled watnut. Which wood finish will you recommend? Dark Walnut will be fine?
I don't know I've never done any burled Walnut
@@woodsandbarclay I will give it a try, thanks anyway.
When checking color for raw wood, 1st sand LIGHTLY with 220 sandpaper, 2nd gloves on, not microfiber, use t shirt cloth and soak 1 spot with lacquer thinner, wipe for 4 seconds or more on wood. That's it. For darker color need stain, some are reddish some brown.
I need to do this to my door. So you used the original holes with new bolts and moved the striker back 1-2mm.. Did the striker not want to edge back to its original position as you screwed it back?
In this situation the striker was slightly off position. I had some replacement bolts from a parts car so when I drilled and tapped those bolts out I used new replacements. However this is not always the cause of doors shutting incorrectly 90% of the time the striker is in the correct position and it's the little rubber tab has deteriorated and doesn't click back the locking mechanism right before the door shuts. After this comment I will post a link to my other video that explains this.
Here is the video that shows replacing the rubber tab that often deteriorates this is usually the cause of having to slam the door.
ua-cam.com/video/Osx062XAClE/v-deo.html
Also regarding your original question no the striker does not move back as you tighten the bolts the striker is adjustable and it stays where you tighten it down.
That looks really great. How hard is it to remove the cracking in the polyurethane?
The original factory coating is actually a polyester resin. That can be removed with a heat gun and pulling it off. However if it's only minor cracking you can just sand it down smooth and then recover it with polyurethane and that fixes any imperfections and makes it look new again.
@@woodsandbarclay Thank you for the information.👍👍
What did you use to glue the wood on with?
In this situation I didn't have to glue any wood. However when I do glue wood I use gel gorilla glue. It's the gel kind that is thick and it stays in one place when you squirt it out. It bonds in about 1 minute. When I need to glue the wood blocks onto the back of the glove box door I use 5 minute epoxy or gel gorilla glue. For all of the wood on the dash if it starts to come loose or pop up I always use gel gorilla glue.