PCB schematic, layouts and firmware here: easyeda.com/julian256/pwm5-femto The PWM5 is open source with no restrictions - make them, sell them, fill your boots :)
The panel needs optimising for the 100mm x 100mm size - Panelizing info -- In EasyEDA go to TOOLS and select Panelize from the dropdown. Stamp Hole, Columns 3, Rows 6, Boarder YES Left and Right, Boarder height 5mm, create fiducial marks YES, create positioning holes YES This will give you 90 PCB's for your $2 :) The order number will be on the boarder and if using the pcb assembly service they will not drill extra holes in your boards for alignment :)
@@kitecattestecke2303 Panel them to the 100mm x 100mm size to get as many as possible for your $2 :) You will need more than one in case water gets in, soldering mishaps, other mishaps, and maybe you will expand your setup eventually :)
I’ve just discovered EDA after spending far too much time trying to get Eagle to do what I wanted, looks great. Would love a video on it if you feel like it, specifically anything I need to know about beforehand to get a PCB ordered
Bob3519 - Blu-tac is much more useful than duck tape. But I can never find any when I really need it. It hides behind or under stuff. Whereas a reel of duck tape doesn’t manage to hide as easily (except when it rolls away downhill...!)
@@____________________________.x - no you fool! You have the cables entering the top, with absolutely no holes in the bottom. Then the ‘sealed’ enclosure can fill like a bathtub 🤣 If you are daft enough to have holes in the bottom, that will let the water drain out, hence the name ‘drain holes’...
horse1066 miracle of miracles he didn’t drill any holes and even made sure the little drain slot was at the bottom. I like those enclosures and could do with one or two. Does anyone know where to get them?
It's worth mentioning that JLCPCB have a minimum dimension between V grooves of 20mm and a panel length of 70mm, they can do less than 20mm but there will be an uneconomic engineering charge. For PCB widths less than 20mm use mouse bites instead. The 70mm panel length is so that it does not fall into the V groove machine, just add a boarder if you need to increase the length to 70mm :) Minimum length of mouse bites is 5mm. For de paneling mouse bites there are pcb nibblers available such as ebay item 252179964778 :)
I've done a fair amount of SMD soldering by feel; I don't recommend it. I eventually caved and got an amscope microscope to use and it makes life much, much easier. It's relatively cheap and was a nice quality of life improvement. I've never tried one of those hdmi cameras, but they might be nice as soldering looking through a microscope can take getting used to.
I have a scope with a screen for inspection, the thing I'd say about it is you lose all depth perception just looking at a screen so soldering with it is surprisingly difficult, therefore if you already have a binocular scope that should be easier to work with but the screen on my little scope is fine just for checking things, soldering with it, not so much!
There is a practical limit to these, small is not better, nor large. These are so affordable that it seems like more effort to make one than to buy them. I have a quandary. Wind, provides variable input voltages and of course the output is low, but the current may vary. I've not seen anything that can address this, as it's the same but backwards. I've got a boost buck, but I lose a lot of current and it's not in spec. I've a 110v DC generator, it easily runs 12v at 5+amp, as a 'low" it's around 7v and 1.65a. it will also run (hand turned) to about 36v and 8a+ I'd imagine it would get more too, but I'm old and the tool uses was a coil induction switch that was used in the old days. But due to the power and ranges I don't come across modern devices that can cope with such a range. Obviously a series could work, but seems like more than what's needed. I think current and volt sensing into various windings is required? I would like to up/down cycle a UPS and TFT boards which have almost all the parts needed, it took a while to get my head around its construct as it has to be one of the more complex ones I've seen. I thought for a while it was a switched (relay) inversion for AC due to the numbers of relays and the quad series (2) banks of rectifiers. The TFT board and straight forward. I just think wind is helpful and wanted to add this to solar, I could get a off the shelf unit, but not sure of their reliability and ranges. Btw. Thanks for the video I was wondering how there was a modulation, or if it was preset and just variable on the resistors.
I've been following this saga for awhile, and it's the enclosure approaches that always boggle. Dozen clear plastic "Test Tubes", $10. Yes, this makes all the wires on one side. Yes, this means "Add a rubber band to keep *totally* waterproof side up." 1) Cheap. 2) Can see light. 3) Much longer term waterproofing on "wet" end (than previous iterations). If "inline" is still a "must have", clear hard tube still superior, IMNSHO.
Hey mate, do these CC have staged charging to suit the battery’s? Don’t forget they need a good, higher current charge occasionally to get the most out of your battery’s. They look awesome in them little plastic boxes, great work as always ✌️
Where is the circuit description? Looking at the Gate voltage generator then driving a Pchannel FET seems weird since you can turn it on by using a pull down transistor to ground and keep it off with a resistor to vbat.
Hi Julian just wondering if this would control a wind generator it also has 100-watt panel. I think iv killed my Rutland HRS913/12 12v it feeds lead acid bank in polytunnel driving 3M LED tape? Cheer Mike R
I've never had a temp controlled iron. 63 years old and always manged. If the iron is hot you just get the task done faster. I really don't understand the need. LOL I've done some seriouse work in the military with nothing more then a 20W and 100W iron. Employing one of the two it always got done right and proper.
pulejet - A good technician can do a quality job even with basic tools most of the the time, and an acceptable job for most of the remainder. When the job really needs specialist tools, then you go and get the correct tools so that it can be done properly 😀
@@mattburrows2615 Julian has the right idea in potting them, but the way to do this is to use a form and encase the units in a UV resistant polyurethane. Heat dissipation won't be great, but other than that, the boards could last a long time. and with the right PU, you could even see the LED...
Julian Ilett - yeah, but measured data could be temporaly stored in RAM of PIC and an ESP could be powered only when there is enough sun or every half over and so... 🤔
Simplicity is the hallmark of good engineering, not complexity. Maybe the flashes need to be slowed down slightly to count them easier, otherwise the LED solution is ideal.
Would it be possible to obtain two of those board here in New Mexico ? PIC programmed ? I would be willing to pay a bit of premium. One for use and One for back up. Intended use in a ammo can solar pack. A complete kit would be dandy.
Please use a lab power supply with a current limit instead of batteries that can easily put out tens of amps and destroy everything at the tiniest mistake.
@@JulianIlett I've got a few through hole kits remaining Julian, but once they're gone, they're gone. I've sold lots over the last couple of years, but recent price rises of components, has made them no longer viable. You're welcome to a spare kit though, if you fancy making one for yourself. ;)
@@JulianIlett I did send you one of my V1 Pico kits a couple of years ago, before they were released. Those did sell pretty well, but are now gone. The through hole kits came later, those again sold well, with just a few kits still available.
wouldn't it be relatively easy implement a 0-9 readout with only three tiny smd leds... like , in binary ? oh, ... you'd need 1 more pin on the pic, right ? -.- and it wouldn't be easy to read on a distance... hmmm... bueltooth ! XD
Why are your solar controllers locater outside near the panels? They should be as close to the batteries as possible, best less than 30cm from the batteries. The cables from the solar panels are best to be a minimum of 4mm2. I know you have big batteries outside but you should have all the batteries together. I hate small SMD components, my eyes are bad in my old age.
@@JulianIlett but my main question is, why have additional batteries located so far from the main batteries? These batteries will never reach the same charge as the main batteries due to losses through the long cables
PCB schematic, layouts and firmware here:
easyeda.com/julian256/pwm5-femto
The PWM5 is open source with no restrictions - make them, sell them, fill your boots :)
" Fill your boots"...Lol ain't heard that in years !
The panel needs optimising for the 100mm x 100mm size -
Panelizing info --
In EasyEDA go to TOOLS and select Panelize from the dropdown.
Stamp Hole, Columns 3, Rows 6, Boarder YES Left and Right, Boarder height 5mm, create fiducial marks YES, create positioning holes YES
This will give you 90 PCB's for your $2 :)
The order number will be on the boarder and if using the pcb assembly service they will not drill extra holes in your boards for alignment :)
Okey do you sell them for us? Makes no sense to order a panel just if I need only one :-/ 12V 70Ah charged from 15W panel currently with no controller
@@kitecattestecke2303 Panel them to the 100mm x 100mm size to get as many as possible for your $2 :) You will need more than one in case water gets in, soldering mishaps, other mishaps, and maybe you will expand your setup eventually :)
I’ve just discovered EDA after spending far too much time trying to get Eagle to do what I wanted, looks great. Would love a video on it if you feel like it, specifically anything I need to know about beforehand to get a PCB ordered
I still need to finish off the attiny version. Nice to see the pwm5 back in videos.
Looks like all 3 would fit in one box. Just a lot of wires going in and out.
The tweezers I've got are squeeze to open, very handy for tiny bits, no need to keep the pressure on.
That's great. I wear myself out oversqueezing in fear of dropping the component.
i should have some boards from them any day now. diy synth oscillators. very interesting stuff (at least for me). when are we seeing more vocoder?
15:33 those cathode markings on the underside are, I presume, for pick & place machines to bring the diode over to the orientation-checking camera.
Julian Ilett
You did a great job with this idea
Even of the box seems to be 100-percent sealed.. silica packs may be a good idea in the enclosure..
Cheap insurance
Another great one Julian! I always make note of your different uses for Blue Tack. That stuff is near as versatile as duct tape! 😃
Bob3519 - Blu-tac is much more useful than duck tape. But I can never find any when I really need it. It hides behind or under stuff. Whereas a reel of duck tape doesn’t manage to hide as easily (except when it rolls away downhill...!)
At last, waterproof enclosures!
I must be watching someone else's channel by mistake.
Just wait, he’ll drill holes at both ends just to make sure at least one leaks 😂
@@____________________________.x - no you fool! You have the cables entering the top, with absolutely no holes in the bottom. Then the ‘sealed’ enclosure can fill like a bathtub 🤣
If you are daft enough to have holes in the bottom, that will let the water drain out, hence the name ‘drain holes’...
horse1066 miracle of miracles he didn’t drill any holes and even made sure the little drain slot was at the bottom. I like those enclosures and could do with one or two. Does anyone know where to get them?
@@RohanTheBT - any electronic supplier with a decent range of enclosures, eBay, or various other on line trading sites.
It's worth mentioning that JLCPCB have a minimum dimension between V grooves of 20mm and a panel length of 70mm, they can do less than 20mm but there will be an uneconomic engineering charge. For PCB widths less than 20mm use mouse bites instead. The 70mm panel length is so that it does not fall into the V groove machine, just add a boarder if you need to increase the length to 70mm :) Minimum length of mouse bites is 5mm.
For de paneling mouse bites there are pcb nibblers available such as ebay item 252179964778 :)
That is worth mentioning - I think I got these made before the charges were enforced.
Slightly amused that after all your efforts to make these incrementally smaller and smaller, you're now putting them in mahoosive boxes. 😂
I've done a fair amount of SMD soldering by feel; I don't recommend it. I eventually caved and got an amscope microscope to use and it makes life much, much easier. It's relatively cheap and was a nice quality of life improvement. I've never tried one of those hdmi cameras, but they might be nice as soldering looking through a microscope can take getting used to.
I have a scope with a screen for inspection, the thing I'd say about it is you lose all depth perception just looking at a screen so soldering with it is surprisingly difficult, therefore if you already have a binocular scope that should be easier to work with but the screen on my little scope is fine just for checking things, soldering with it, not so much!
There is a practical limit to these, small is not better, nor large.
These are so affordable that it seems like more effort to make one than to buy them.
I have a quandary.
Wind, provides variable input voltages and of course the output is low, but the current may vary.
I've not seen anything that can address this, as it's the same but backwards. I've got a boost buck, but I lose a lot of current and it's not in spec.
I've a 110v DC generator, it easily runs 12v at 5+amp, as a 'low" it's around 7v and 1.65a. it will also run (hand turned) to about 36v and 8a+
I'd imagine it would get more too, but I'm old and the tool uses was a coil induction switch that was used in the old days. But due to the power and ranges I don't come across modern devices that can cope with such a range.
Obviously a series could work, but seems like more than what's needed. I think current and volt sensing into various windings is required?
I would like to up/down cycle a UPS and TFT boards which have almost all the parts needed, it took a while to get my head around its construct as it has to be one of the more complex ones I've seen. I thought for a while it was a switched (relay) inversion for AC due to the numbers of relays and the quad series (2) banks of rectifiers. The TFT board and straight forward.
I just think wind is helpful and wanted to add this to solar, I could get a off the shelf unit, but not sure of their reliability and ranges.
Btw. Thanks for the video I was wondering how there was a modulation, or if it was preset and just variable on the resistors.
JLCPCB must love you :-)
I'm sure they do :)
@@JulianIlett That makes two of us then :-)
Hi !
@@andymouse Hi there Mousey:-)
@@andymouse also did you notice Julian doesn't worry about the fibreglass or sand it off going WEEEE Weee!!! :)*
I've been following this saga for awhile, and it's the enclosure approaches that always boggle.
Dozen clear plastic "Test Tubes", $10. Yes, this makes all the wires on one side. Yes, this means "Add a rubber band to keep *totally* waterproof side up."
1) Cheap. 2) Can see light. 3) Much longer term waterproofing on "wet" end (than previous iterations).
If "inline" is still a "must have", clear hard tube still superior, IMNSHO.
boy, I could not solder such small bits!
👍 Danke!
👍 Thank you!
FINALY an enclosure...
Ahh, that will be the SMD soldering you said you had been doing. Nice video thanks, I assume the solar efficient is dropping quite sharply now though?
He he, yes. Less sunshine going forward (and lower solar azimuth), so I'll need all the power I can get from the panels, hence the 3 controllers :)
Hey mate, do these CC have staged charging to suit the battery’s? Don’t forget they need a good, higher current charge occasionally to get the most out of your battery’s.
They look awesome in them little plastic boxes, great work as always ✌️
Yes they do. For a time each morning, the setpoint is raised to 14.4V to lift the battery voltage from it's night-time relaxed state.
Where is the circuit description? Looking at the Gate voltage generator then driving a Pchannel FET seems weird since you can turn it on by using a pull down transistor to ground and keep it off with a resistor to vbat.
where can i get a few of these, already assembled? im lacking the tools but i would absolutely love a few of these for my balcony solar
you can search for pcb assembly service at:www.pcbcart.com/
Hi Julian just wondering if this would control a wind generator it also has 100-watt panel. I think iv killed my Rutland HRS913/12 12v it feeds lead acid bank in polytunnel driving 3M LED tape? Cheer Mike R
Just mount all 3 in the one box. Looks like plenty of room.
All will be revealed in part 2
I've never had a temp controlled iron. 63 years old and always manged. If the iron is hot you just get the task done faster. I really don't understand the need. LOL I've done some seriouse work in the military with nothing more then a 20W and 100W iron. Employing one of the two it always got done right and proper.
pulejet - A good technician can do a quality job even with basic tools most of the the time, and an acceptable job for most of the remainder. When the job really needs specialist tools, then you go and get the correct tools so that it can be done properly 😀
Slo-mo shows two flashes followed by 8 rapid flashes. Did you omit the first flash in the programming because it should never be under 9 or over 20?
The first two flashes means 12V. The 8 rapid flashes means .8V
Minimum voltage displayable is 11V.
Yay any clue on battery to battery chargers ???? 12volts ...
Will you be selling these Julian if so I would be interested thanks Fantastic channel love the content
are you willing to sell couple of these? I would so love to have a few!
I'm surprised you didn't put the boards in a zip lock bag with a desicant after you opened the plastic...
I'm surprised one was used outside without adequate protection from humidity.
@@mattburrows2615 Julian has the right idea in potting them, but the way to do this is to use a form and encase the units in a UV resistant polyurethane. Heat dissipation won't be great, but other than that, the boards could last a long time. and with the right PU, you could even see the LED...
An eink displej instead of LED would be neat. Or serial output for ESP8266 to read voltage and upload it to DB regularly...
Both way too power hungry. The PWM5 has a self-consumption of just 1mA.
Julian Ilett - yeah, but measured data could be temporaly stored in RAM of PIC and an ESP could be powered only when there is enough sun or every half over and so... 🤔
Simplicity is the hallmark of good engineering, not complexity.
Maybe the flashes need to be slowed down slightly to count them easier, otherwise the LED solution is ideal.
How come you have not tidied the cables up and put them in rain proof packaging to help prevent erosion?
MD4564 to enrage everyone, there is no other conceivable reason
Would it be possible to obtain two of those board here in New Mexico ? PIC programmed ? I would be willing to pay a bit of premium. One for use and One for back up. Intended use in a ammo can solar pack. A complete kit would be dandy.
Please use a lab power supply with a current limit instead of batteries that can easily put out tens of amps and destroy everything at the tiniest mistake.
@Julian Ilett.
I can send you a spare through hole PWM5 kit if you're needing another charge controller. ;)
John, are you still selling your PWM5 kits?
@@JulianIlett
I've got a few through hole kits remaining Julian, but once they're gone, they're gone.
I've sold lots over the last couple of years, but recent price rises of components, has made them no longer viable.
You're welcome to a spare kit though, if you fancy making one for yourself. ;)
I'm pretty sure I've got one somewhere. But I'm spread between the office and the workshop and now I can't find anything.
@@JulianIlett
I did send you one of my V1 Pico kits a couple of years ago, before they were released. Those did sell pretty well, but are now gone. The through hole kits came later, those again sold well, with just a few kits still available.
@@JulianIlett - being spread that far sounds very painful...😁
Those LEDs kill your auto exposure and compression xD
Who cares, they look awesome :)
@@JulianIlett They are the single reason why I will not subscribe to your channel. A worthless waste of my screen.
@Mr Brightside I bailed out after becoming annoyed by those leds. They add nothing positive to this youtube experience or Julian's presentation.
Julian... please... those wires look so thin and unhealthy... XD Please replace them and consolidate those batteries in a sensible way. :P
wouldn't it be relatively easy implement a 0-9 readout with only three tiny smd leds... like , in binary ? oh, ... you'd need 1 more pin on the pic, right ? -.- and it wouldn't be easy to read on a distance... hmmm... bueltooth ! XD
Please,can you make it PDF format and code in hex file in zip form
Pardon me ! " Mouse Holes " ?.....Do you think this is the final version of your solar charge controller ?
Yes, the PWM5 Femto V2 is near perfect - it's the final version :)
@@JulianIlett near enough someone said in the video is good enough :)*
Your flux pens are all dried out?
Current capacity
and sir how to make multi small pcb to one 3:19
Select the option "Panel by JLCPCB"
Why are your solar controllers locater outside near the panels?
They should be as close to the batteries as possible, best less than 30cm from the batteries. The cables from the solar panels are best to be a minimum of 4mm2. I know you have big batteries outside but you should have all the batteries together.
I hate small SMD components, my eyes are bad in my old age.
The controllers are indeed less than 12" from the batteries :)
@@JulianIlett but my main question is, why have additional batteries located so far from the main batteries? These batteries will never reach the same charge as the main batteries due to losses through the long cables
@@stevetobias4890 - I think this was discussed in an earlier video when he showed how he had wired up his thin copper coated aluminium cable...
@@Mark1024MAK ok thanks, I must have missed that video.
Circuit please
In description
i am from india love from india .
i want to know this mail is one year old how?
easyeda.com/julian256/PWM5-Gumstick
The gumstick version is over 2 years old :)
and sir how to make multi small pcb to one 3:19
second??
Almost certainly :)
Your flashing leds in back are not very Julian-no-frills. Annoying, distracting. Thanks for your vids anyway!
They're less bright now. I did that to help people with photosensitivity.
First?
Yes, I think so :)
Surly Julian was first...😁