BMW K1200LT DIY Spiegler Brake Lines Replacement
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- Опубліковано 1 лип 2024
- 00:00-34:15 Front Lines
34:18 - 54:00 Rear Lines
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A video created by Kirk's Motorrad Shop. Please work at your own risk. We are not responsible for any damage you do. - Авто та транспорт
Another great video, putting pads, Spiegler lines and bleeding wheel circuits and ABS on my K21200GT. This video is a great help.
I'm not an LT owner yet, but GOD willing, I will be soon! I will replace the factory brake lines with Speiglers! Thank you for your videos! I'm sure they will save me many future headaches, and money! GOD bless you sir!
I'm a soon to be a 2000LT owner. I stumbled across your videos and absolutely love them. I'm hoping to do a lot of the upgrades and tips and tricks you have shown to my own bike. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the help years and years later. “Thumbs up”
Another great video Kirk. Thanks for the education to spend hours of playing the hobby "mechanic" with our bike. Boni
I bought a 2002 LT and love riding it and am also replacing the brake lines. This is a great video to walk us through the process.
Good video. I have a few additions that I hope will be helpful-
-the bolts securing the handlebar covers are 3mm hex wrench/socket.
-the air horn absolutely needs to removed to do this job.
-to remove the lower end of the old master cylinder line it is impossible to get a 14 mm and an 11mm wrench in that space so I cut the brake line close to the fitting and used a 14mm socket and ratchet ti remove it. Mercifully Spengler supplied a line needing a single 11mm wrench to tighten the new line which is doable. Before tightening this fitting you will want to tighten the upper end of the line ti the master cylinder to achieve the correct angle.
-you can use a 16mm wrench on the new junction block when tightening those lines down.
-the left side caliper line needs to have the bracket and rubber grommet assembly removed to remove the old line (3mm hex socket). This bracket can be pried off the old brake line with a screwdriver and used on the new line.
-When trying to loosen the rear master caliber line from the fitting by the battery box it is impossible to get a 15mm wrench on the fitting without removing the shock/spring assembly. To avoid doing this I was able to put a vice grip on the banjo end of the old line to counter the torque of loosening the bolt. I also removed the bolt holding the bracket to the battery box(3mm) to give myself more space to work with.
It’s an aggravating job but doable-
I just replaced mine about 3 weeks ago on a 1999 LT, its like deja vu. Nice job and great explanation video.
You've helped me a LOT. Thanks.
Thanks for everything you do and you explain how and why and if there's a shortcut on time or money so glad I found your website 4 year's ago I watch you do it then I go and do it and it ends fairy well most of the time so again thanks
Another nice video. I'm about to pull the trigger on a G650gs but I find your videos really helpful regardless of exact model. Plus I'm from W Michigan now living in CT so I like hearing your Midwest accent!
Good thing you tested the brakes,I would rather have brake fluid all over the shop instead of all over the rear tire trying to brake hard at highway speed.You may have saved a life(s) 'Great job on making this video and thank you for sharing the helpful info,bro.Keep your rubber on the road and your tach in the black.Ride safe everyone and remember to lQQk twice and save a life,Motorcycles are everywhere!
Great video Kirk! Thank you.
I just finished this job on my 2000. Your video made the whole process so much simpler for me. Thanks again, great quality video and perfect instructions!
Hi, First I want to thank you for all of the great videos and tips.
I have performed a bunch of the things that you suggested.
I just got my home and have a concern. It has a clunk when I go into a parking lot or small abrupt transition. I cant find anything obvious. 're filled the stabilizer, dont see any leak at the shock. Im stumped. Really smooth otherwise. Thanks in advance.
Guy Fogleman ID.
@@guyfogleman6465 did you figure it out?
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I did the kit myself. I could not have done this without your video(s). My front brake line broke the day after I finished a 2k miles vacation from central CA to Vegas, Zion, both rims of Grand Canyon(in 32° snow flurries), old Route 66 in AZ, then home all in 6 days. I was in my garage when I saw the leak. Definitely a conversion I should have done earlier. I am grateful the leak didn't occur on the road. Your bleeding video helped alot as well as your shifter linkage maintenance video I did too while LT ('06) was naked. It took me a day to strip, then two full days to r/r with the Speigler kit and bleed and reassemble the 'tupperware'. Thanks again. (I will eventually do a donation your way)
Your very welcome! I am on Patreon :-) www.patreon.com/kirkjohnson
@@kirksmotorrad hi kirk I'm looking on Ebay for spiegler brake lines and racecrafters usa are coming up but the only thing is they're website is not opening so can I ask do you know of them and are they ok to order from as I'm from the uk . The bike is 1999 lt I can order from bmw uk but the price is very high . Regards cliff
@@cliffperry8470 I have not used Racecrafters. Why not contact Spiegler directly and have them shipped?
@@kirksmotorrad thanks I'll try that can I ask what's the best way to contact you . My lt needs loads of loving and parts . I've looked at it vids on bleeding the non abs but do you have a video of bleeding the calipers as well .
@@cliffperry8470 kirksmotorrad.com/contact.html
Did my 92 k1100lt. Wow.old ones toast. 5.1 motul is the best
This was back in the old days of Kirk having no lift... Yes I do have a lift now and its on the channel. :-)
Superb video ,just done mine on my k1200rs,is there a easy way to change the handle bar grips ?.
Hola, excelente video.
Hi Kirk, As always, thanks to you and your club for creating these service videos.
I had been planning to replace my brake lines on my 2004 LT over this past winter 2017-18 as a preemptive effort to avoid disaster. Unfortunately, at the very moment of placing my bike on the lift last fall, I blew a line near the rear master cylinder. It turned out that I could not get to the project as my planned work area was smaller than I thought. So I left the project for this spring. The bike is on the lift in the garage and I am starting the undressing of the beast, but I suspect all of the brake fluid has drained out through the hemorrhaged brake line. Do I face a new set of challenges in the brake line change now thinking I have lost all the fluid?
Probably not a disaster. Its likely you lost all the fluid but you can get it back. If the master cyl leaked out, change the line and leave it loose at the top by the shock. refill the res and let it fill up to the line that is loose. After that, its bleed as normal. You should be fine. Remember, its only parts... and time! Thankfully it didnt happen on the road!
Would you by any chance have a diagram of the brake system on this bike? Considering changing the BMW ABS II system on my Peraves Monotracer for a BMW I ABS II system like this one
You should add a link for the part itself
Hi Kirk, I only have one question; I bough a 2003 K1200 LT and wish to know if I could install an electric center stand or install a power unit on the standard one on this bike.
ive watched and enjoyed your videos for some time...thanks. im curious if you can help me with an issue im having w/ my 04' k1200lt. when i attempt to start the bike, i cant seem to deactivate the alarm, fresh battery in fob, when i press the button on the fob, the light on the fob blinks rapidly and continuously, until i stop pressing it.....the alarm indicator light in the dash appears to be pulsating from the moment the ignition is turned on, the the fob alarm button seems to have no effect on the alarm light on the dash. of course, the bike wont start while the red light on dash it lit. any ideas? thank you
TIP: Put the bolt and washer side on first and the male side last.
When you put the male side in first you will find that you will be turning the bold side more and its not needed.
There is a female on the frnt left side. Start at the brakes on the left then do the right side and work up to the air in-take area. Do the upper Hand Brake and work to the air intake area. Now you can button this all up.
The back is the same. Work from the brake to the front on the right side of the bike.
You will find that from the foot brake up to the hard line is behind the (Back Bone Frame) Where the shock is. This was a really hard spot to deal with for me as nothing fit in this area.
>Total 6 lines.
2-Front lines
2-Upper lines
2-Rear lines
Another excellent video, thank you. I appreciate your methods & techniques to get the job done. A friend bought a 2003 K1200LT with 40K a few nights ago there was brake fluid on the front right caliper leaking from the hose just above the metal Tee. The Spigler kit seems really nice, really like how they reworked the metal Tee. I'm estimating 4 hrs to do the front / rear and bleed. Wondering if time is saved by doing front first, and rear later. I am fearful of bleeding the brakes - some go smoothly and some don't.
i know Im randomly asking but does anyone know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Harlem Kendrick Instablaster =)
@Edward Jonathan thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Edward Jonathan it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out :D
@Harlem Kendrick you are welcome :D
will some body tell me what I need to use to loosen the front brake line on the donut end what wrench or tool
Hi Kirk, Have a question. I have a '99 LT and I have to 'double pump' the front brake to get firm pressure while braking. I this a master cylinder problem? If so where can I get a replacement master cylinder for a reasonable price? Thanks
u ever use a might vac?
Kirk, Great Video as usual! Have you done a video of getting these beasts on a lift? I notice a lot of work being done on ground.
This was back in the old days of Kirk having no lift... Yes I do have a lift now and its on the channel. :-)
thats just my shop keyboard. No cleaning required!
first things I would look at would be the spark plug wires, then the fuel line in the tank and then the O2 sensor.
Not sure if this is asked. What's the flat rate of doing this. In hours
Hello Kirk, thank you for those Educational videos. I was wondering if you have a video to help me I just bought a 99 K 1200 LT. Which is smoking on initial start up. When it warms up its stop smoking. I'm assuming it's slightly burning oil. Can you please guide me to find a solution.
To reduce smoking on startup, I do this when shutting it off. I shut it off sitting on the bike and wait at least 20 seconds or so before putting it on the side stand. That way the oil has time to drain back down and will reduce how much drains on top of the valves. Also use the center stand when ever you can. The smoking is normal.
Hi Kirk. Thanks for the nice video. How do you know all the air is removed from the system? Is it normal for the front brake to feel spongy when the bike is turned off?
Cheers Don
Yes it can feel a bit spongy if you really give it a squeeze but if it is going to the bar every time you probably still have air in the master cyl. try tapping on the brake lever to get the air out.
Kirk,
Finally got around to installing. One problem; the male threaded parts are longer than the old lines I am replacing and do not seat completely in to the existing female fittings. There is a gap when I tighten down. Use extra washers? Call Spiegler and complain?
The gap is normal. Just tighten it down enough that it doesnt leak.
Getting ready to do this on a 2003. Watched your video on bleeding with Integral ABS. Is there anything special being there will be air in the lines?
Not really. Just make sure you keep the ABS full while flushing it
Hello! I am about to do this job... question. Do I bleed the brakes first or the ABS after Im done?
follow the bleed procedure I lay out in the video. Bleed to the ABS first
The FRNT:
I would suck from the frnt brake and open at the ABS line and suck out all the fluid in one shot. Mybe a little cleaner.. As when you put all the new stuff on its going to be dry.
The Back:
Suck from Back to fill on side, to ABS.. again cleans all the old oil so it don't drip... Less mess
Hi,
You talk about bleeding the ABS unit but you don't show how it should be done, do you have a video for that?
Also few guys on the online community say on a 1999 Model the ABS unit doesn't need to be drained or bled, just to bleed the calibers in the normal way to get the air out and that is enough.
Which one is correct and why ?
Finally, are Galfer or others brake lines any good ? Why Speiglers ?
Thank you.
ua-cam.com/video/-hm4dxVs3TE/v-deo.html
I have found that there is still old fluid trapped in the ABS no matter how much you run fluid through the system. Remember, its your bike and you can do or not do what you want. I think Galfer makes good products as well. I like Spiegers due to their top quality and continual R&D. That and everything is made to order at one location.
Kirk you mentioned that this bike had been lowered 3" how is this achieved and does it improve handling the bike at slow speeds? (due to it not being so top heavy)?
This bike feels like it is going to scrape everything due to being so low. I dont think it helps the handling other than being easier to get on and off
Dear Kirk, I have been told one of the 14 mil head banjo bolts has a valve in inside it. Is that true and if so which one is it. Also how do you remove the bottom half of the handle bar cover on the throttle side. Please and thank you.
There are no valves that I know of in the bolts. You can remove the lower cover from the top once you get the top side off. There are small hex screws
illinoisBMWriders Hello Kirk and thanks for the reply. I’ve just today stripped the bike and removed all brake lines for replacement. Regarding the lower handle bar cover removal I had to release the throttle cables from the grip as they passed through a hole in the lower cover I had asked that question as nothing has been mentioned in any videos I’ve watched and was wanting it totally out of the way for fear of fluid damage. Regarding the the banjo bolt question. I have found that the one hex head banjo bolt connecting the brake line to the front brake master cylinder on the handlebar is the one that has a valve or throttling device inside it to regulate the pressure to the abs system on the integrated brake system. Perhaps it may be worth a mention sometime on one of the videos. As you probably already know there are only two hex head bolts the rest being Allan key. The second hex head bolt is the one on the rear brake master cylinder. Now whilst I’m waiting for my new lines to arrive I have to replace the rear rotor purchased from EBC. Not looking forward to getting those pesky little bolts out :( I can’t thank you enough or the videos you have put out for us all to keep costs down and able to enjoy these bikes. Mine is a 2007 with only 22,000 kilometres on it and to sell its value has gone dollar wise. So best keep it and ride it instead of paying out more for a lesser quality machine. Stay safe and God bless from Canada 🇨🇦
Kirk , I have a 2006 k1200lt with 18,000 miles , pretty sure its been garaged its whole life , I am the second owner, the bike still has the oem break-lines, will I be ok for a while, or is this a 911 situation ? as always thanks for your videos and help to the BMW motorcycle community
I would say if you just look at the bike and dont ride it ...ever... then yes, you can leave the brake lines. There is NO WAY I would trust those lines to not break! We dont really have much in the way of protection on a motorcycle. Losing the brakes at the wrong time would not help the safety factor. I will be honest. I would love to find a brand new, never titled LT of any year with zero miles. The FIRST thing I would do is change the brake lines.
illinoisBMWriders Kirk , I am hearing you loud and clear , thank you for taking a moment to answer .
Question: was about to bleed the brakes but had to run to the auto parts store. While gone, a downpour came out of nowhere and got into the front brake reservoir. Is my brake system screwed?
No. Suck everything out and dry it with a paper towel. Then make sure you tap the brake lever like I show in the video to make sure you have all of the air out of the master cyl. You should be just fine!
illinoisBMWriders Whew! Great. Thank you. And thanks for your tremendous videos
good morning. does this kit work for 2003 with the brake assist?
absolutely.
Hi Mr Kirk
Good day is posible yours videos in spanish. My name is Joaco. I have a k 1200 LT 2007
I whishe in espanish is better for mi
I life en México Monterrey
Thanks
Do you have to remove the right faring?
It makes it a lot easier
Ou acheter ce kit de flexible de frein ?
Contactez-moi sur kirksmotorrad.com et j'obtiendrai le prix pour vous.
Merci à vous
Hi,
Can you answer a question for me please?
I see these brake pads online that says they are for 1999-2000 K1200LT but it also says "It will NOT fit ABS Models".
Were there K1200LT bikes without ABS in the 1999-2000 year range?
Mine has ABS.
Or is it a case of the Seller not knowing what they are talking about & the Pads will fit my bike?
Also, the question of "Sintered" pads Vs. Carbon/Kevlar and Semi Metalic.
From what I read the Sintered pads wear out the Rotors (which are expensive to replace) much faster than the Carbon/Kevlar.
Is there a difference btwn the Semi Metalic and Sintered pads?
And is it Ok to use any of these with the 1999 K1200 LT ABS (Brembo) brakes ?
Thank you so much for the help, it is confusing.
I would recommend either CL pads from Spiegler spieglerusa.com/brakes/brake-pads/make/bmw/model/k-1200-lt.html
or EBC pads. I personally use Sintered pads and have had no noticeable wear in the rotors. Yes there is a difference. Sintered tend to grab harder and dissipate heat better.
Thank you for your reply. The Spiegler pads you sent me don't say that they are Sintered pads.
Are you saying the carbon/Kevlar pads noticeably will NOT stop the bike as fast as the Sintered pads?
What are Semi Metallic, are those different than Sintered and Carbon/Kevlar ones ?
Thank you.
And is there a NON ABS 1999 K1200LT ?
Because I see brake pads for the bike but it says "Will Not fit ABS brakes". I though all the 1999 and later K1200LT's has ABS brakes???
Thanks.
I am not really sure what you are asking me that I did not already answer. If I had to guess, you are trying to save money buying pads off of ebay or amazon. Without a link to what you are buying I have no idea if they will work since I am not the one selling them. As long as the pads fit, they will likely stop your bike. Some are better than others. I personally do not like carbon/kevlar but that does not mean you wont. I will stick with sintered because that is what I prefer. The ones sold at Spiegler are sintered. Just remember, sometimes you get what you pay for. If you buy a $20 brake pad set they will likely perform like $20. Quick wear and lots of dust not to mention unknown wet performance. I hope this helps you understand.
What I was asking if there were K1200LT bikes models made without ABS brakes or if they all had ABS brakes.?
I ask because one seller says the pads fit my bike but they don't fit ABS brakes....which made no sense since my bike's year ALL have ABS as far as I know.
I tend to agree with what you said for the most part except sometimes the seller is simply making a large profit/Mark up on the item & thus it costs more....especially since most things are made in China anyway, I mean most of these are NOT German made pads (except the Spiegler ones you like are made in France).
Anyway here are 3 brake pads I am looking at. Perhaps you can tell me what you think:
www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2000-BMW-K1200LT-ABS-Kevlar-Carbon-Front-Rear-Brake-Pads/181749810941?_trksid=p5411.c100170.m2943&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140131123831%26meid%3D0b4a88b3d547492d80dca2d9754ada7f%26pid%3D100170%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D272263807167
www.ebay.com/itm/281069207402?item=281069207402&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
www.ebay.com/itm/Outlaw-Racing-OR407-Front-Sintered-Brake-Pads-BMW-K1200RS-96-00-K1200LT-97-10-/201438860252
Thank you so much.
Please help I just bought a BMW K1200RS have not even put 100 miles on it front brake blow. No one in my area will touch it. Closest BMW dealer is 3 1/2 hours away in Troy NewYork. Called them $350.00 just to bleed the system. The whole job about $1000.00 yeah I don’t know about you but $1000.00 is a lot of money money I don’t have. They say it’s because of the abs system. And those that are not BMW dealers say you have to be a dealer to get this special tool what ever that is. Can anyone help please. My son in-law is a heavy equipment mechanic and has worked on my cars for yrs. so I have access to someone who is mechanically inclined just need to know if it can be done and how. Thank you much everyone. Kirk please if you read this HELP!
sorry I mean banjo bolt